How to BROADHEAD TUNE (But I Did It Wrong… read the comments)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2023
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Well, I appreciate the viewers that caught my error!! Sometimes I make mistakes and I don’t mind admitting to it. We will note it here: When the broadhead impacts left of the fieldpoint, adjust your rest to the left until it shares the POl of the field point and VS versa. Always aim at the same spot as we did later in the video. Appreciate the viewers pointing this out and hope it doesn’t make the tuning process more confusing…. I’ve done this many many times the right way…. I am not sure why my brain was wired in reversed in this video.
Leg day is no joke man! It’s messes with your brain 😂
You should pin this so people see it
We just have one of them days when shooting a bow we lose track sometimes but it doesn’t matter we catch on and move forward 👍🏻
Understandable! Sometimes it happens bubba. Nobody’s perfect! I love you’re content bro! I hate I missed you at B&B in Pearl, MS. I’m a big fan man. Have been for years
I am started my first broadhead tune this week, and a lot of information out there tells that same backwards method. Luckily I found the correct info and was able to turn around about 30 minutes in. Thank you for at least correcting it! Better than most…
As a bow tech at a pro shop, and someone who's watched the channel for a long time... I love to see this! Awesome stuff Chris! I am a full believer in expandable heads so I actually really like to bareshaft tune, but still love to see this really in depth tuning on this channel! Love to see more!!
This by far is the best tuning video that I have watched!
With having to redue my arrows due to broadheads not lining up with my fletching, (3 day before open archer in Wisconsin). I am shooting a new bow and thought that they would shoot the same as they did last year. This video helped me to learn a ton about how to tune my arrows.
Thank you!!
I just broadhead tuned and broadhead was consistently about 3-4” left of the FP at 50 yds. I bumped my rest maybe 1/32-1/64 to the right (toward the FP) and then stacked my FP on top of my broadhead at 60 yds. There’s just so much confusion out there with some people saying everybody has to do it one way, and that’s it. I think your video is right, at least for my set up. I then checked each of my arrows with the same broadhead at 80yds to check each arrow’s consistency and there were 3 that didn’t group quite as good as the others and I think it may be due to me messing up when I spine aligned them. Either way thanks for the video!
I’m very new to the technical aspect of compound bow tuning. Love your videos. Easier to understand
I’d have to say this is wrong info from the point he shoots on foward, one you aim at the same spot not aim at the broadhead. Two you move the rest towards the broadhead and not the field point . If you have to take the rest more then an 1/8 to either side I’d say move the top hats/cams to correct the issue. Tip: if you wanna save your target from getting chewed bareshaft tune at 20-30 yards and it’ll get you super close without ruining your target
Best comment, agree 100%
Literally love every video Chris. I’ve been tuning at 100 yards and am pumped to say I put a 6 inch group. Still learning and doing better
The fact that my grouping is 4 inches at 49 yds your doing insanely well but I have only had my bow for 8 months
Cam hanes junior over here lol
Nicely done! Super simple and well explained. Keep up the great work and congrats on the success of your moose hunt video
Broadhead tuning made easy! Nice job!
Keep up the awesome work my dude. The archers of TH-cam need you. We're all human, we all make mistakes. Good on you for owning it.
For years I prefer using the method that Jim Burnsworth showed in a TH-cam video. Way before he made that video. Using a vertical line shoot a FP at 20 until you get sighted in by hitting the line ( he used a heavy cord weighted to be 100% vertical). Then step back to like 40 or 50 and shoot your broadhead of choice but aiming with your 20 pin at the twenty. The broadhead will naturally hit way lower but what you are looking for is if the broadhead hit the cord or line. Adjust the rest accordingly if it needs. Now go back to 20 and start over. You will eventually find the correct rest setting so that both type heads are hitting the line. Way more accurate than shooting at dots for windage. Naturally, you should already have a sight tape for that arrow or have the pins set on a multi pin for elevation.
Just bought my first bow this week. A phase 4 of course! Watching you has inspired me to put the rifle down this year and get in on the action. I’m so excited for August 15th here in good ol’ South Carolina. Tight groups!
Ga needs to open in August as well I can’t wait till September 9th
You'll learn more in a week then you ever have with that gun I promise fred wasn't bullshiting when he said that
Well??? Any updates!!?? 😁 I’m in SV also and starting out bow hunting for the first time. Been target practicing for many years now.
Mentioned blooper aside, if you shoot a broadhead into a 3D target, before trying to shoot that arrow with a FP, all you prove is that your FPs hit where you aim.. Fixed common aiming point for both arrows.
I shoot the V3X 29 I just put new gas strings on. I am at 64# 29 Inch draw. I shoot Easton axis 5mm 340 spine. 430 grains. They work great. Cool video chris
This was very helpful. Thank you for all your tips and tricks man.
You the man Chris, I'm contemplating switching to Mathews bows bc of your insight in the game. Shooting hoyt for now. Wanting my own Lil home setup too 😂
As usual Chris very informative and entertaining. Love your channel.
For whomever it may concern.
I'm terrible at stripping vanes with a knife. I rush myself and end up gouging carbon. Found out using a potato peeler take em right off all the glue 0 carbon. You need a flat peeler. Not all will work but I now need a new peeler for the kitchen because mine is in my shop haha
Bohning makes a tool for it and it seems to work well for me
Potato peeler for the win. Best defletching tool
Love your content. Thanks for sharing your insights.
Wow that is the first time I have heard about using a light spine on mathews. I have 300 and 340 in Easton axis. But I really don’t see much difference when I shoot them both. Great video.
Your point weight and arrow length will affect your spine
I honestly find that my 300's group nicer haha and I'm right on the line.
Thx Chris this will help me a lot when it becomes season where I live
I always move my rest towards the broadhead. I guess both methods work. Good vid bro.
Outstanding explaintion on broadhead tuning. 👊
I'm the same way I have to shoot with my chest rig especially to prep for hunting season. Binoculars was one piece of kit I kinda shrugged off but after making the jump I learned they are a superpower. Helpful on the range and field. I myself am still deciding on what broadheads I want to use. I want to change to fixed blades this year but can't decide what to use.
Look up the Annihilators
@@donaldphillips3786 X2 They fly really well.
@weaverwoodsandwater8088 check out the QAD exodus
Check out Exodus broadheads…
Im trying Iron Will S series and Ramcat hydroschocks this year. So far the Iron Will's shoot great. Havent tried the Ramcat yet.
That's good stuff 👍🏻👍🏻 out of curiosity what kind of chrono speed are you getting out of that setup?
Could you go over your arrow setup? Grain per arrow etc?
I've always wondered, though, why no one shoots a fletched field tip-arrow through paper again. Doing so after they've paper-tuned and then broadhead tuned their bow. To show if the tear is still a perfect bullet-hole or not. Just curious, and I will be doing so real soon. I've got good paper tear with all arrows when shot bare-shaft through paper and rotating nocks to get there when necessary. Now they're fletched, except for two, and I have bare-shaft tuned the bow to tightly group the pair of bare-shafts with the fletched ones. next is to check and correct the broadhead tuning. Once this is done, I plan to go back to the paper to see what's happened to the perfect paper tear I saw in the beginning.
Better to be over spine for hunting to help with impact paradox. And they’ll be bending less as they fly. You can also nock tune with broadheads. I’ve found that will often make broadheads and field points together. I haven’t had flight issues with solid fixed blades but I tune each arrow. Regardless thank you for talking about it. The more people tune their stuff the better we are as hunters.
Love the videos
Do you prefer a hang-on stand or a saddle? New to bow hunting and have no idea which to use. Feels like everyone is split 50/50 on them.
nice video. Be careful pulling those broadheads out of the target. I had a stuck on suddenly come loose once and stuck it in my thigh about 2". LOL
Awesome that you still posted this even though you could of easily deleted this
I always use a nocked arrow when setting up my arrow rest and then when shooting to dial in the scope to get it set to get it dead center 👍
You won’t have issues being over spined. You can being under. Mathew’s are slower so I can understand 350s with that setup but any other bow I’d rather be slightly over spined than not.
I would like to see what you think about the ARD adjustable sight my uncle has one and I shot it and I love it I would like to see what you think about it and see it you think it worth getting
I don’t get it. I believe you were correct Chris to say if Broadhead hitting left move rest to the right. Double checked Eastons Broadhead tuning chart I’ve always gone by and it confirmed it. I’ve always Broadhead tuned since if shot lots of fixed blades over the years.
I am so confused. Easton website says one thing, Gold Tips website says another, and every other video you watch is different.
@@Thee.flyingg.pigg24 absolutely it is confusing for sure. I reference Easton’s chart everytime I do it so I don’t get it wrong and do it backwards lol
All this is new to me. Trying to learn as much as I can. Love your channel. Do you sharpen the broad head after shooting targets with it? Or just use one broad head for tuning and grab a new one for hunting? Thanks.
I think most bow hunters use a broadhead for targeys than a diff one for Hunting, i think shooting a target can mess a broadhead up
Hey Chris. So I have a z7 extreme and it is paper tuned and everything is square…but my arrows fly all wild. I shoot Easton fmjs and rage expandibles any recommendations?
Which inserts are you shooting with the Vap tko? I’m using the standard 50 grain inserts and they seem like there not going to be very durable.
Man... you will never ever .... ever ... convince me at ANY arrow length that a 340 spine is stiff enough to shoot on a 77lb draw weight bow. And if the "engineers" are saying that's fine or ok....I world question that.
At that draw weight and length.....I world be shooting a 575gr to 625gr 250 spine arrow.
I want to shoot 40 yards but i have a hard time seeing the target at that range. But I see my pin on my hha tetra single pin I run a normal peep with no lens. Other than adding a lens to a sight what are my options.
I am upgrading my compound bow from a hoyt Maxxis 31 to a hoyt RX1 Redwrx 🥳 like what you used to have 😎
I can get my micro hades 3 blades to hit with field point, I tried a solid 2 blade head and they hit about 6” high. What causes this? Also tried the g5 m3 and they also hit 6” high. Is it just the solid construction of the blades making them plane?
I switched to a 250 spine with 300 grains up front , bare shaft at 20 yards, I’m shooting 65 lbs 28 inch draw grizzly stick Masai head
The more weight up front the stiffer you'll need. I also shoot with a 250 spine. Got a lot of weight up front as well.
That's backwards. You move the rest toward the broad head laterally and away from the broached vertically. Also, you shot the broadhead first and then aimed at the broadhead with the field point? That's not right. You need to aim at the same point for both.
Lol I said the same thing. Why are you shooting a field tip at the broadhead that may not have flew straight.
Correct!
Came to say the same thing lol.
I agree with everything you said @torreyintahoe. This debate comes up all the time. I don’t understand how people get broadhead tuned by doing it like he said.
No, he's right. This is how I tune my broadheads and it works.
I find that on four fletch rotating the nock to the next position gives u four opportunites to tune them. Usually can find a happy spot where they match
It happens with any number of fletching, or even with a bareshaft.
With a 4 fletching configuration, you have one more position to rotate the nock compared to a 3 fletching configuration, of course.
The big question is after you broadhead tune and then shoot through paper again how does the tear look like
So if my broadhead hits dead inline with field point but is high then I need to move my rest down? At 50 yards I experience my broadhead straight up from my field point about 6-8 inches.
Hey Chris, first year in archery. Do the blades of a fixed broadhead need to be in line with the fletching? Or split the difference of the fletching ?
You don’t have to. Shoot both to see if you notice a difference
Thank you Chris enjoy your videos
What sight and rest where you you using on the moose hunt
What kind of broadheads should I use as a first-time bowhunter
How much total weight are you running upfront with the 350s
awesome video man!
Love your content. I have a question. Is there a reason you don’t have monkey tails on that bow or is it a personal preference?
Good video thanks.
You said you're a 28" draw, but (I may have missed it?) how long are your arrows cut to, and what inserts are you using?
Bareshaft through paper is a waste. Changes the dynamic spine of the arrow. Try a bareshaft, the try the SAME arrow with fletching and see what happens. The fletched arrow will tear/not shoot a bullet hole. Having the rest as close to centershot as possible is extremely important, especially with fixed blades. Watch videos of Tim Gillingham to get more in depth information.
Why do you run a cable driven rest vs a limb driven rest?
What saddle brand do you use when hunting from saddle
Do you also tune the blades to the fletching? Or does that matter
What does that even mean?
That’s funny I’ve found with a 30 inch draw at 70lbs with 175 up front I had to spine down to 250 I could get the 300 spine to tune but the 250 spine tuned way better for me
Do you arrow tune before u start your broadhead tuning
Agree about the spine on a Mathews Switchweight Cam Bow, but I disagree with your broadhead tuning discussion.
Can you explain why you should under spine vs over spine with a Mathews bow? Thanks!
Yeah, I haven't heard this before.
Making it real is the key !
i love ur videos big fan
What front pouch do you use ..
Since broadheads exaggerate tuning issues, would broadhead tuning be a helpful tool for fine tuning a target/tournament setup?
100%
I'd use a bare shaft.
@jackbuendgen389 I do some bare shaft tuning as needed. Since I don't bow hunt, ( I enjoy using guns to hunt, bows for tournaments) I had never thought of using a broadhead for tuning, and was curious if that was something others did, and I just didn't know
You would be better served with group tuning and torque tuning, if we're talking target archery, IMO.
Broadheads plane if not shot perfectly straight out of the bow. Left broadheads group means move the arrow rest right, like you said in the first place. Up and down via knock point is the opposite if you move your d ring (broadheads low, lower knock point (or raise rest)). This is what the Easton charts show. If I (and Easton) am wrong, can someone explain why?
It’s super confusing. Easton says one thing. Gold tip says another. And every video I watch contradicts the other.
@@Thee.flyingg.pigg24 so I tried moving left/right counterintuitively (opposite of what I said above) and it worked. Could group BH with field points but also changed my point of impact requiring sight adjustment. I still don’t understand why left/right is opposite of up/down for BH tuning.
What strings do you use in your bow
He put oem matthews strings on (zebra brand)
Inside out precision does this BEST
What arrow spine do you recommend for 100 grain swhacker broad heads?
That doesn't matter. There's more to it than that. Draw weight, arrow length, etc.. all determine a general spine requirement. Edit : it does matter how much weight up front, but not the only thing. Look up arrow spine chart it will tell you.
Hey Brother,
I popped you an email about a bow hunt trip in South Africa, on the house.
Have a look at it🙏🏼🙏🏼
just wondering if this myth is true. if your shooting a 3 vein arrow with a 3 blade fixed broad head do you have to line your blades up with you veins? Ive always done it but wasnt sure if it actually made a big difference
It's a myth..yes back in 70s and 80s when equipment wasn't as efficient or effective as today's stuff you would match vanes and blades..Won't make zero difference to the avg archer today
100% myth.
only complaint about the montec is it's about as sharp as a butter knife out of the package. They fly good, but..
That's sad to hear, I shot these as a kid when I was shooting 85gr heads and they were razors! Good thing they're easy to sharpen on a flat stone
I’m new to bows and tried to broadhead tune but they won’t come together. The broadhead hits about 8 inches right of my field tip at 20 yards can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong
Grip torque, most likely. Your form has to be perfect or this bh tuning will just cause you to run around in circles
I'm genuinely curious how many arrows you shoot a year 🤔 like more than 1000 but less than 3000 idk. Maybe next year you get a clicker and keep track. 🤷
@chrisbeereal thanks for making this video. Quick follow up question.
Why do you recommend taking a perfectly tuned arrow and bow (using a field point) out of tune to get the broadhead and field point hitting together?? Why would you not tune your broadhead arrow and adjust your sight accordingly. It seems this method takes both arrows and takes them both slightly out of perfect tune with a goal of just getting them to group together vs perfect arrow flight for one setup.
If your broadhead and field point aren’t hitting together the bow is not perfectly tuned. Perfect holes in paper are only a starting point. Broadhead tuning is micro tuning and will achieve perfect arrow flight that wouldn’t show up with field points.
@@mikecredeur7941 thanks. That was my guess after seeing so many videos recommending this process. I guess the concept of getting them hitting together is group tuning. Which is turn makes for the best arrow flight possible on your setup. I always thought this step was more for convenience vs improving arrow flight. Thanks
@@mikecredeur7941 All you are doing is tuning that particular broadhead to your field point. Each broadhead will fly a little differently so just because you have a field point and your particular broadhead hitting together, I don't think you can say the bow is perfectly tuned. Once you swap the broadhead you'll have to do it again.
Agree with everything else you said.
Do you think it's better to tune with the biggest fixed blade you have?
Tune with the broadheads you plan to use
Just getting ready to do this myself I am also a 28 inch draw shooting 70lbs is 350 spine where I should be I'm shooting 400 spine as of right now
The spine has a bit to do with the bow weight but mostly it's the weight you're adding on with the arrow. The more weight you add up front the stiffer you'll want your spine. 350 is fine if you're shooting a light insert/broadhead.
@@JedlyMT I'm shooting normal inserts and 100 grain Montec
My local bow shop had me go with the 400 spine but I shot 350spine last year on my previous bow
@mikeferland9185 Yeah, I mean at that weight you might be pushing 370 grains total, so 400 is fine. 350 doesn't hurt. Getting stiffer isn't the worst thing, it's getting softer that it really starts to go haywire.
Google “arrow spine chart”. You should be 340-350 spine pushing maybe toward 300 if you add any point weight.
Couldn’t up and down tears also mean that the cams could be out of timing?
Why do you shoot mechanical over fixed ?
using 350s with over 70# dw is wild to me. especially with a fixed blade! what kind of black magic are you using in your shop and will you sell some to me lol
My Mathews eat up 350's with 28 draw length and 70 lbs draw weight. Couldn't get them to tune fixed broadheads well so went to a 300.
@@WillsGoneWalkabout that’s what I would imagine, maybe even on a slower bow, but I know Mathews bow’s rip. Chris just has that sauce I guess ;p
Thats why i absolutely love bowtech now. You can move the cams over extremely easily. If my broadhead hits left i turn the cams to the left a turn. Bam instant 120 yard broadhead shots. To easy.
As long as your broad heads are hitting in the same spot as your field points. If not you could just as easily adjust your sight.
Do you take 120 yard shots on animals? I don't even think around here a 100 yard shot is possible on public. Furthest I have shot a deer was 75 meters and that was rifle season. The closest was like 10 meters with rifle. I almost didn't aim on that one. I was walking the trail and she popped out looking for the noise. It's crazy thick here.
Looking for a new sight for my phase 4. Love how that one integrates with the new system! Which sight is that? Thanks! @ChrisBeeReal
spot hogg slider with the uv3 scope
dialed, option archery, cbe, sport hogg all make great sights but pretty expensive
I shoot VAPs 350 Spine at 75lb 28 DL phase 4 29 shooting ironwill s100 double bevel and there tuning like money..
Low broadhead could also be cams out of time…
Cant wait to see what matthews has done for 2024 i havent bought a new bow for 3 years now still waiting on easier tuning like bowtech and elite have
Can you please do a video on foc
Sorry Chris but that’s wrong on the rest movement. If fix blade hits left of field point it’s imitating a right tear which you first shift top hats but moving rest is quicker and will work if you have room.
Your 100% wrong..if it'd paper tuned properly like his is then it's all broadhead flight..nothing to do with the arrow flight..
@@timwozniak7574 so if it’s “perfectly” tune why is he moving his rest to take it out of tune to fix his flight. Paper tuning is just a reference kind of like bore sighting. Fix blades shows ALL flaws and going back to my statement of being right. Do more research and learn.
@buckshot2614 if I have to explain this you really shouldn't be arguing. A 3 blade fixed head disrupts the air more than a field point and will maximize and issues with micro adjustment on the center shot.. you can't paper tune arrow any more better after it's already perfect.
@@timwozniak7574 you should for sure let a bow tech work on your bow or just stay out of archery.
@@timwozniak7574 go watch inside out precision video on broadhead tuning. Thank me later.
@chrisbeereal No Nock Tune then?
How far do you think the g5 dead meat drops at 100 yards?
Same as your field point.
@@MrBanolicious have you shot them at 100 yards? I don’t want to ruin one so I haven’t lol
@@christophertowsley8563 I use the practice heads so I don’t ruin the real ones and yes out to 100
What kind of broad heads are you shooting in the video?
Looks like montecs
I can go straight to the bohning factory its just a hour away.
Well at least we get to see another video where he fixes this video
could be grip kicking you left. let er ride
We are all human.
If i shot across my property like that i would have to explain to the police why my son took an arrow.
Anybody else have a longer draw then most and struggle to find long enough arrows? The most common length I come across is 30” and yeah I find 31” arrows but there’s so many more options I like but only for 30” and there’s always more spine selection for 30”. 31” draw life’s matter too
not sure what arrows you have but easton 5mm axis are 32-34” , victory arrows are 31” , and gold tips are 31-32”