Self levelers are tricky. Probably the best tool in the shed is a garden rake. Use the back side to pull the leveler around over the whole floor, then use the spiky side to keep breaking the surface tension of the leveler until all ripples are gone - it'll be glass smooth. Also, make sure you use a surface primer if the product says to... you'll regret it if you don't (don't ask how I know this! :)
Putting down leveler tomorrow, I have the exact same concrte puller Issac used but I'm going to grab my rake and pull it with the spiky side! Thanks so much for the tip .. even 2 years later!!
@@snoodle877 how’d it go? I started installing lvp in my living room and noticed its not sitting flat so now i know my subfloor is uneven. I’ll be taking it off and putting self leveler wherever it needs it. I’m hoping it’s just some spots and not the whole living room. Any advice?
@@imartinez92 Thanks for asking! it was almost perfect … but I ran 2 1/2 bags short! Couldn’t believe it! Floor is nice and level but I do have these transitions from 1st pour to final fix. I’m putting Ditra over all so I’m hoping that with a level floor those minor transitions won’t affect my tile lay down.
I worked for Issac for 2 years. Very impressed with his knowledge and quality. There will always be a “know-it-all” in the comment section of any channel. Please make your own video if this is you. I really can put to use this installation of the level quick to any job benefit from it thanks to videos like this. Thanx Issac
Relax. The comment section can be priceless. Many share their experience and reflect on what is seen in the video. Like AJ7's post for example. As a DIYer I'm grateful for the video AND the comments.
The spike roller makes it get to level faster. It never "Self" levels all the way. The spike roller breaks that surface tension and gets the job done! Good videos. Thanks!
Wow, thanks a million. Using the foam insulation all round is genious, alot less hassle than nailing baseboard trim and silicone all round. And using a window squeegee to help spread the "batter" is a great tip. My project is to use this materialt to underlay for tile in the kitchen cabinet "hole" where the range was at 7/8 inch below the floor tile level. Much better than buying a huge heavy cement board, especially when you only need a 30in x 30in piece.
Hey guys. Just wanted to say thanks for the video and tips. We just poured a self leveling floor in our kitchen and "butlers pantry". It went great. Thanks again.
So glad I found your video. I want to tile my bathroom but was pretty disheartened when I found how uneven it was. This helped give me confidence and make a plan. Cheers.
I Understand the principle of what your doing. The Best Tip you gave and it is so simple to wrap your legs up in plastic bags to keep you clean That is so simple! a Great tip to Keep Clean
We mixed quickset when i was younger and layed marble floors for uneven floors. We would use a long level to see what part of a room was lower, chalk where was lower, pour quickset, smoothen it out, take lunch to let it harden then come back to start popping chalk lines. Perfect quick fix
I saw something brilliant the other day. Person used sand. leveled the low spots with sand built it up. Covered the sand with a garbage bag and taped it to the floor. Took up the floors ten years later no issues.
When I saw you setting up multiple mixing buckets so you could pour the leveler all at once, I said "Ah Ha! that's what I need to do for a one man 80 sq ft. floor that 1" out of level.". Thanks for the great idea!
Isaac; Thanks man! I WISH I had caught this before I just used a lot of un needed thinset to build up a "level" corner of my tile project...Proves to me the need to seek out your solid how-to's before diving into a project all gung-ho. I did do that last summer when I had a different project but this time around I was in too much of a hurry. Speed is costly. Big thumbs up!!
Isaac, I silicone horseshoe spacers to the floor to show the height I need to pour to. Once all my horseshoes are slightly covered I know I'm flat and level!
Great video. Don’t worry about the bagshoes, improvisation is a gift. How long does it typically take for a self-leveler to dry? Could you show how you actually determined the high and low points with your level and straight edge? Also, thanks for sending out love and sharing your positive attitude.
Thanks for this video! I've got a 2 car garage floor that has kind of sunk in certain places. Self-leveling compound like this is perfect for something like this.
Thank you so much! I will be doing my bathroom this week to prep for tiling. After putting down mortar and then cement board screwing it down its still uneven-old home 1930. Thanks again!!!
in the old homes its better to just go with the flow of the house. Mine was the same way. It was flat but everything sloped towards the middle. I used the uncoupling membrane and tiled it no problem
I like to use my green 360 self leveling laser to make my layouts. I’ll take some screws and set them in different spots. To be a better visual representation when pouring the leveler. Love watching your videos. Thank you for doing your thing!! Tile-Doc out
@3:35 I have made the exact mistake that you are describing here. I have found that even if I poured two buckets next to each other the edges of those two pours would not blend by themselves. There was an "edge" to where those pours met, due to the surface tension. If I could do it again I would use garden rake to blend the separate pours. The spike roller is probably the best tool for it, but a rake would probably work too.
with self levelor you have to be fast and the mix must be runny. If you pour on top of the previous pour you run the risk of the first one setting up (which happens within about 5min) and then getting humps in your finished product. I try to pour each bucket in a way that it just touches the edge of the previous one and then check it with a straight edge and laser level if needed. Concrete nails are useful to set your heights before you start but many other things work just as well.
Great video, I’m getting ready to use self leveling compound for the first time. I like your style and clear explanations, you’ve earned a subscriber. Just one thing...don’t vote your heart, vote using your brain. Emotional decision making is not the way to run a country 😄
Paul G Learn from me. Do a trial section somewhere harmless to make sure you get the consistency right and you get familiar with the technique. I didn't... Look out for the sell by date on the bags. The stuff ages and sets up much faster and doesn't flow. Adding water after doesn't help either. Otherwise you'll end up like I did at 2am knees down with a belt sander trying to make the best of a bad job.
Check out leveling with tripods, makes it pretty easy for this as well as a spiked roller and spiked shoes for walking in it while its wet. Spiked roller helps to level and get the air bubbles out at the same time. Cheers
Absolutely agree about the spiked roller and shoes. Once you try with these, you will NEVER go back to doing without. The difference is huge. The spiked roller continually breaks the surface tension, and the product flows like magic.
Small rotary lazer level at the high point, measure down with your tape measure from the level line, then measure at random points around the room and superglue shims or packers up to the correct height. Then you pour the compound level with the top of the shims/packers 👍
How would you handle cracks in the slab under the self leveler? Would you fill those with epoxy, or just prime them and fill them with the self leveler?
Isaac Ostrom the roller is good for merging pours from different buckets. The stuff dries so fast merging pours don’t always “level” perfectly. The roller kneeds it together better then pushing it around with a squeegee.
I self level a whole lot different than you do. But I’m open to learning better or different ways for better or similar results. Thanks for the videos.
Have you tried using a porcupine roller when pouring leveling compound? It works great at blending all the poured material leaving a glass finish. I typically grind the humps using a cup wheel with a hepa vac, then it minimizes the amount of material needed.
As Captain Disillusion says, “love with your heart, use your head for everything else.” In other words, vote with your head, don’t vote based on emotion!
The leveler was wetter then what I’m use to, and mixing enough for the whole pour upfront. I see now that these are important steps. The end result was impressive
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What I learned about floor leveling compound; Primer is extremely important, especially when laying layers upon concrete. Anyone in the business of floor leveling will tell you that the product isn’t self-leveling. It takes an experienced hand to have a finished product that is flat, much less smooth and level, 3/16th of an inch at ten feet is the max variance. Cold, cold water will give you some extra time to spread the mix before it clumps and hardens. Special tools are needed, unless of course you are a concrete man that knows how to use lumber as a tool. Spike shoes are important when doing large areas. A roller with spikes is necessary to remove bubbles, help spread the cement and pop bubbles. A slow stir is necessary to keep air bubbles out of the mixture (recommending a mixer and not a drill). Exact water measurement is extremely important. Stirring longer than two minutes is just wasting set-up time. Sanding often isn’t a problem, some easier than others, some dustier than others. The videos on TH-cam are obviously with experienced tradesmen, making the job look easy.
Thank you for this. When I went to Home Depot to get the self-leveling mix they made it sound easy Peezy I came home to check the floor and it was 3 inches uneven I ended up going back to buy regular concrete and now I’m going to try to do the self levelling over that I simply can’t afford to hire anyone in this room is a bedroom important because there’s a baby on the way so I’m trying to figure this out and I really appreciate experience people and TH-camrs who make these videos
@@saphire9823 I've tried the home Depot "self leveling" stuff for 3 separate pours and it's never been level. At this point I trust myself with concrete and a trowel more than that garbage. Also for the water, if you want it to flow at all you definitely need a lot more water than what it calls for.
I mixed up my self leveling to the instructions on the pack and it was too thick. I had to level it with trowels and rakes (the spiked roller did nothing) I saw some other videos after saying they added 50% more water and worked fine. Id recommend anyone to mix up a small quantity first and test the consistency on a bit of board. Towards the end of my attempt I added more water and it was better, but not perfect.
Great video Isaac. Quick question though. Do you still lay cement board down on top of this floor before you install the tile? I know with plywood you lay down the cement board before the tile, but with this self leveling compound would you skip that step? Thanks
Can anyone help me out with an easy question? Can you tile directly over the self-leveler? The leveler instructions say approved for tile right on top, but the tile mortar instructions make no mention of leveler as a substrate. Too many youtube videos and searches on this have left me spinning about the "right" way.
Question: how did you measure the peaks and valleys to begin with? You’re pretty exact with the values. Do you have a video on doing that? Oh...and how much thickness does this add to the floor? Thanks
best way in a large area is to use a wall laser level and measure down from the line to determine heights. also, you do need either screws or plastic shims etc., on the floor to ensure you dont pour over pours unnecessarily or maneuver the compound to much after the pour. The material is only maneuverable for the first minute or less and then it begins to tighten up rather quickly so if you push it around after the 1min mark, its much more likely to clump up and sit where you left it. I can almost guarantee that this floor did not come out 98- 100 percent albeit much better than it was.
Isaac , I like the way you said, we are mixing the self leveler , you watch while the poor guy done all the mixing, Okay you did spread the stuff, but still it was a good video, well done.
I like how your leveler looked alot more watery them most...some almost look like there Appling cake batter and there having to screed it amd roll it with needle rollers and a bunch of stuff like that...can u tell us what leveler you used?
Thank you for sharing. Would you like to answer my question ? Can I use this method to level a floor for tile-over-tile. If so, should I use self leveler before the primer or after?
Badass! How did you transition to the high spot, just left it? Does it feather itself, or will you just come back later with some mortar and a straigthedge to fine tune it? Thank you
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Does this take the place of backer board? Seems like it would just crack the self leveler if you tried screwing backer board down, but I've seem some forums where people are talking about putting backer board over top once its cured. Which is it?
Could somebody explain why it’s ok to pour mud over that much foam? Doesn’t that weaken the edges? The leveler recommends a gap right up next to the wall, with adhesive weather stripping. The stripping at the store is like 3/16th inch thick, which you would stick to the very bottom of wall.
At the end, it looked like it didn't cover the whole floor. Did you have to add more, or did you just continue spreading it after ending the video? Also,what did you do with the spray foam afterwards? I imagine you scraped it out, then hand filled the remaining inch or so? Or did you just fill it in with thinset while tiling?
My dear friend just a reminder . After you cleaned the floor you have to tackle the floor cracks with a membrane crack suppression. Them you most prime the floor with underlayment primer then you adjust the height you want with the spreader tool that is adjustable not a window squeegee
What to use to level uneven cement board walls. Used some speed set but told it’s for setting tile, then speed finish but said to utilize it as final skim coat after waterproofing to create a better surface for bonding shower panels too
You are absolutely correct, self leveler is much better than using thinset as a build-up which I've been guilty of before, would have taken me 20 bags on that job to set tile using thinset😨
Yea, I followed someones advice about using thinset to level the floor, what a waste of time and money, project did not turn out good. Going to prime tile, pour underlayment, and put down a floating vinyl plank.
2:55 Ops... Where is the bounding / priming coat? would it be an important pre-requisite before pouring leveling compound based on compound's manufacturer instructions?
Hi, if the subfloor is too thin and is not leveled and i want to add a plywood, do i need to add leveler first or do i place the plywood first then use the leveler compound? Also, do i need to have the 1.25" subfloor under a bathtub or can I just leave that 3/4"? Thanks
wow, expansion form as a dam, THAT is a trick I haven't seen before and this tip alone made this a worthwhile video. Thank YOU!!!! Excellent!
Self levelers are tricky. Probably the best tool in the shed is a garden rake. Use the back side to pull the leveler around over the whole floor, then use the spiky side to keep breaking the surface tension of the leveler until all ripples are gone - it'll be glass smooth. Also, make sure you use a surface primer if the product says to... you'll regret it if you don't (don't ask how I know this! :)
Putting down leveler tomorrow, I have the exact same concrte puller Issac used but I'm going to grab my rake and pull it with the spiky side! Thanks so much for the tip .. even 2 years later!!
@@snoodle877 Thanks for the input... What kind of Leveler is everyone using? Thanks
@@dwaynerobare1153 mapai leveler plus, from lowes
@@snoodle877 how’d it go? I started installing lvp in my living room and noticed its not sitting flat so now i know my subfloor is uneven. I’ll be taking it off and putting self leveler wherever it needs it. I’m hoping it’s just some spots and not the whole living room. Any advice?
@@imartinez92 Thanks for asking! it was almost perfect … but I ran 2 1/2 bags short! Couldn’t believe it! Floor is nice and level but I do have these transitions from 1st pour to final fix. I’m putting Ditra over all so I’m hoping that with a level floor those minor transitions won’t affect my tile lay down.
I worked for Issac for 2 years. Very impressed with his knowledge and quality. There will always be a “know-it-all” in the comment section of any channel. Please make your own video if this is you. I really can put to use this installation of the level quick to any job benefit from it thanks to videos like this. Thanx Issac
This is a public forum know-all, and you are not a dictator in here, probably not even in your own kitchen, gobshite.
Relax.
The comment section can be priceless. Many share their experience and reflect on what is seen in the video. Like AJ7's post for example.
As a DIYer I'm grateful for the video AND the comments.
Liar 🤥.
@@MyGoogleTH-cam SHUT UP!!!! he is right!!!
@@MyGoogleTH-camlol limo
Yo I’m a 22 year old tile installer all your videos help a bunch, haven’t came across too many floor prep videos
You're a GREAT teacher. I love how you were clear and concise, got straight to the point, and down to business. Appreciate you!
I love the bags on the feet. Ingenuity....working with what you got. Good stuff thank you for sharing
The spike roller makes it get to level faster. It never "Self" levels all the way. The spike roller breaks that surface tension and gets the job done! Good videos. Thanks!
Do you absolutely need the spike roller or can u do it good enough with a squeegee
Wow, thanks a million. Using the foam insulation all round is genious, alot less hassle than nailing baseboard trim and silicone all round. And using a window squeegee to help spread the "batter" is a great tip. My project is to use this materialt to underlay for tile in the kitchen cabinet "hole" where the range was at 7/8 inch below the floor tile level. Much better than buying a huge heavy cement board, especially when you only need a 30in x 30in piece.
Thank you for video! It's a "one shot" application, so its nice to see it done.
Hey guys. Just wanted to say thanks for the video and tips. We just poured a self leveling floor in our kitchen and "butlers pantry". It went great. Thanks again.
@@TileCoach in all fairness, I probably overdid the great stuff but, that's on me. Lol
So glad I found your video. I want to tile my bathroom but was pretty disheartened when I found how uneven it was. This helped give me confidence and make a plan. Cheers.
How'd your bathroom turn out?
I Understand the principle of what your doing. The Best Tip you gave and it is so simple to wrap your legs up in plastic bags to keep you clean That is so simple! a Great tip to Keep Clean
We mixed quickset when i was younger and layed marble floors for uneven floors. We would use a long level to see what part of a room was lower, chalk where was lower, pour quickset, smoothen it out, take lunch to let it harden then come back to start popping chalk lines. Perfect quick fix
I saw something brilliant the other day. Person used sand. leveled the low spots with sand built it up. Covered the sand with a garbage bag and taped it to the floor. Took up the floors ten years later no issues.
When I saw you setting up multiple mixing buckets so you could pour the leveler all at once, I said "Ah Ha! that's what I need to do for a one man 80 sq ft. floor that 1" out of level.". Thanks for the great idea!
Dude you rule. Extremely logical approach, very helpful!
I always appreciate people like you man
Isaac; Thanks man! I WISH I had caught this before I just used a lot of un needed thinset to build up a "level" corner of my tile project...Proves to me the need to seek out your solid how-to's before diving into a project all gung-ho. I did do that last summer when I had a different project but this time around I was in too much of a hurry. Speed is costly. Big thumbs up!!
Isaac, I silicone horseshoe spacers to the floor to show the height I need to pour to. Once all my horseshoes are slightly covered I know I'm flat and level!
I have been using a similar trick with backer board screws to set my heights....
@ it's "you're" not "your" and you call Isaac retarded?
Good idea. I would use a wood screw and easily adjust the height. Going to do this next time I run into this thanks guys
Great idea. I think I can visualize it. Who will provide a video showing the spacer technique?
ProTileGuy thanks for the tip!
Great video. Don’t worry about the bagshoes, improvisation is a gift. How long does it typically take for a self-leveler to dry? Could you show how you actually determined the high and low points with your level and straight edge? Also, thanks for sending out love and sharing your positive attitude.
Wonderful video - and loved you new "boots" You helped me appreciate what it takes for a really flat pour.
Perfect timing of this video! Thanks for uploading. Exactly what I needed.
Thanks for this video! I've got a 2 car garage floor that has kind of sunk in certain places. Self-leveling compound like this is perfect for something like this.
I wonder if it is strong enough to take the weight of a car tire (assuming a car ever gets in the garage). Maybe a special leveler?
I usually red guard any cracks before the self leveling underlayment. Great work 👌🏾
Thanks for taking the time to help the rest of the world...will be using all your techniques today!!
You're the best! Great videos with common sense explanations. Thanks a million.
thanks for the tip about using a trowel to spread the compound.
Thank you so much! I will be doing my bathroom this week to prep for tiling. After putting down mortar and then cement board screwing it down its still uneven-old home 1930. Thanks again!!!
in the old homes its better to just go with the flow of the house. Mine was the same way. It was flat but everything sloped towards the middle. I used the uncoupling membrane and tiled it no problem
I love your work and your explanation. Thank you it’s very understandable.
Absolutely the best “self leveling” video I have seen. Thank you for taking the time to share.
No. The best self levelling videos will show the use of spiked rollers.
Great vid. Love the planning ahead with the marks on the floor.
I like to use my green 360 self leveling laser to make my layouts. I’ll take some screws and set them in different spots. To be a better visual representation when pouring the leveler. Love watching your videos. Thank you for doing your thing!! Tile-Doc out
Hey! I used this trick to level my bathroom floor! It works!. Thanks. Levelquik sets up quick tho. Then I just cut the foam flush with a multitool.
@3:35 I have made the exact mistake that you are describing here. I have found that even if I poured two buckets next to each other the edges of those two pours would not blend by themselves. There was an "edge" to where those pours met, due to the surface tension.
If I could do it again I would use garden rake to blend the separate pours. The spike roller is probably the best tool for it, but a rake would probably work too.
with self levelor you have to be fast and the mix must be runny. If you pour on top of the previous pour you run the risk of the first one setting up (which happens within about 5min) and then getting humps in your finished product. I try to pour each bucket in a way that it just touches the edge of the previous one and then check it with a straight edge and laser level if needed. Concrete nails are useful to set your heights before you start but many other things work just as well.
Use a spiked roller, and the pours all blend like magic, provided of course that your material is still runny (not starting to set).
Great video, I’m getting ready to use self leveling compound for the first time. I like your style and clear explanations, you’ve earned a subscriber. Just one thing...don’t vote your heart, vote using your brain. Emotional decision making is not the way to run a country 😄
Paul G
Learn from me. Do a trial section somewhere harmless to make sure you get the consistency right and you get familiar with the technique.
I didn't...
Look out for the sell by date on the bags. The stuff ages and sets up much faster and doesn't flow. Adding water after doesn't help either.
Otherwise you'll end up like I did at 2am knees down with a belt sander trying to make the best of a bad job.
Thank you coach! That bag trick is exactly what the dr ordered!
Thanks , I wore them bags over my sock walking to school in Nebraska during the winter as a kid ! Actually it was bread bags !
Great tips and tricks bro thanks following your directions 💯
I wish there were experts like you in our area.
you are awesome. simple and straightforward.
May God bless you
Love the spray foam tip. Very nice
Check out leveling with tripods, makes it pretty easy for this as well as a spiked roller and spiked shoes for walking in it while its wet. Spiked roller helps to level and get the air bubbles out at the same time. Cheers
Absolutely agree about the spiked roller and shoes. Once you try with these, you will NEVER go back to doing without. The difference is huge. The spiked roller continually breaks the surface tension, and the product flows like magic.
thank you was able to use this clip to help with my construction course
Foam spray
GENIUS
Showing how you used the level and the straight edge. To get your "ground zero" and different depths would of been helpful. Otherwise awesome.
And the way you calculated volume from the point measurements.
Small rotary lazer level at the high point, measure down with your tape measure from the level line, then measure at random points around the room and superglue shims or packers up to the correct height. Then you pour the compound level with the top of the shims/packers 👍
Just pour it... forget the measurements..
How would you handle cracks in the slab under the self leveler? Would you fill those with epoxy, or just prime them and fill them with the self leveler?
duuude. great job, thanks for the lesson, best vid ive seen of this.
Excelent my friend thanks for you video you did a great job
I would like to see the floor after you pour it with a level. To make sure it's flat.
I use that same Marshalltown rake or spreader too. I picked it up out of necessity one day and it works really well.
@@TileCoach Yep. I use both. The rake to move it around and then the spiked roller to break the surface tension and get it to flatten out.
Isaac Ostrom the roller is good for merging pours from different buckets. The stuff dries so fast merging pours don’t always “level” perfectly. The roller kneeds it together better then pushing it around with a squeegee.
I self level a whole lot different than you do. But I’m open to learning better or different ways for better or similar results. Thanks for the videos.
JUST WHAT I NEEDED...THANKS ALOT.
Have you tried using a porcupine roller when pouring leveling compound? It works great at blending all the poured material leaving a glass finish. I typically grind the humps using a cup wheel with a hepa vac, then it minimizes the amount of material needed.
"Vote your heart". What an American thing to say, you just gotta love the freedom.
As Captain Disillusion says, “love with your heart, use your head for everything else.” In other words, vote with your head, don’t vote based on emotion!
@@radish6691 I heard it as don't vote out of fear or cultural/media hype, vote your passion...
Thanks bro I’m only 19 & I’m doing my room it helped me a lot👍
FOAM! YES! GREAT TIP! What kind of primer? Kilz?
Good stuff. I would like to see you using a gauge rake but it looks good!
You guys are the best 🤙👍
Very helpful thank you for the tips.
The leveler was wetter then what I’m use to, and mixing enough for the whole pour upfront. I see now that these are important steps. The end result was impressive
Man, you make it look easy
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th-cam.com/video/9Rh5MxZPMcI/w-d-xo.html
What I learned about floor leveling compound;
Primer is extremely important, especially when
laying layers upon concrete.
Anyone in the business of floor leveling will tell
you that the product isn’t self-leveling. It takes an experienced hand to have
a finished product that is flat, much less smooth and level, 3/16th
of an inch at ten feet is the max variance.
Cold,
cold water will give you some extra time to spread the mix before it clumps and
hardens.
Special tools are needed, unless of course you are a
concrete man that knows how to use lumber as a tool.
Spike shoes are important when doing large areas.
A roller
with spikes is necessary to remove bubbles, help spread the cement and pop
bubbles.
A slow
stir is necessary to keep air bubbles out of the mixture (recommending a mixer
and not a drill).
Exact
water measurement is extremely important.
Stirring
longer than two minutes is just wasting set-up time.
Sanding often
isn’t a problem, some easier than others, some dustier than others.
The
videos on TH-cam are obviously with experienced tradesmen, making the job look
easy.
Thank you for this. When I went to Home Depot to get the self-leveling mix they made it sound easy Peezy
I came home to check the floor and it was 3 inches uneven
I ended up going back to buy regular concrete and now I’m going to try to do the self levelling over that
I simply can’t afford to hire anyone in this room is a bedroom important because there’s a baby on the way so I’m trying to figure this out and I really appreciate experience people and TH-camrs who make these videos
@@saphire9823 I've tried the home Depot "self leveling" stuff for 3 separate pours and it's never been level. At this point I trust myself with concrete and a trowel more than that garbage. Also for the water, if you want it to flow at all you definitely need a lot more water than what it calls for.
you are a hero! great video!
I mixed up my self leveling to the instructions on the pack and it was too thick. I had to level it with trowels and rakes (the spiked roller did nothing)
I saw some other videos after saying they added 50% more water and worked fine.
Id recommend anyone to mix up a small quantity first and test the consistency on a bit of board.
Towards the end of my attempt I added more water and it was better, but not perfect.
Thanks for the vid. Helped me out a lot
Foam spray is also useful around toilet flange when using self leveling underlayment in bathrooms.
Or upside down empty 1 gallon mastic bucket with caulk around it.
I have no idea what that means, guess I'll be hiring someone
Great video Isaac. Quick question though. Do you still lay cement board down on top of this floor before you install the tile? I know with plywood you lay down the cement board before the tile, but with this self leveling compound would you skip that step? Thanks
people usually mount directly to the concrete or use uncoupling membrane if they want
Tile straight to the floor. No cement board on the ground. That's only for walls. Or specific applications.
New subscriber, great content, learning a lot.
Can anyone help me out with an easy question?
Can you tile directly over the self-leveler?
The leveler instructions say approved for tile right on top, but the tile mortar instructions make no mention of leveler as a substrate. Too many youtube videos and searches on this have left me spinning about the "right" way.
I believe so, however I would thinset down an uncoupling membrane first, then tile on that.
Question: how did you measure the peaks and valleys to begin with? You’re pretty exact with the values. Do you have a video on doing that? Oh...and how much thickness does this add to the floor? Thanks
Adds about 1/8 of an inch
best way in a large area is to use a wall laser level and measure down from the line to determine heights. also, you do need either screws or plastic shims etc., on the floor to ensure you dont pour over pours unnecessarily or maneuver the compound to much after the pour. The material is only maneuverable for the first minute or less and then it begins to tighten up rather quickly so if you push it around after the 1min mark, its much more likely to clump up and sit where you left it. I can almost guarantee that this floor did not come out 98- 100 percent albeit much better than it was.
Professor Kaos I agree with everything you said, especially the part about how you said you like to stick things up your booty.
Isaac , I like the way you said, we are mixing the self leveler , you watch while the poor guy done all the mixing, Okay you did spread the stuff, but still it was a good video, well done.
Interesting using expandable foam. Edge ban makes something similar but this method is cheap and effective. Love it
Vote absolutely! Educate yourself and help others!!!
What name brand self leveling compound do you recommend, or will any type do?
Heck yeah! Good job man.
I like a man that knows his trade
Great video, what's the mixture per bucket
thanks and I love the bags
Issac, after the self leveling, do you place cement board, or kerdi over the leveling compound? Do you have a video of this on top of a plywood floor?
I have the same question…
Very good video. Thank you
I find a spiked roller levels it really well. A squeegee just moves it about to much for my liking. I learned my lesson the hard way.
I like how your leveler looked alot more watery them most...some almost look like there Appling cake batter and there having to screed it amd roll it with needle rollers and a bunch of stuff like that...can u tell us what leveler you used?
Thank you for sharing. Would you like to answer my question ? Can I use this method to level a floor for tile-over-tile. If so, should I use self leveler before the primer or after?
Badass! How did you transition to the high spot, just left it? Does it feather itself, or will you just come back later with some mortar and a straigthedge to fine tune it? Thank you
Very helpful, thanks for making this!
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Does this take the place of backer board? Seems like it would just crack the self leveler if you tried screwing backer board down, but I've seem some forums where people are talking about putting backer board over top once its cured. Which is it?
Great video . great work extra detailed nice job 👍
Could somebody explain why it’s ok to pour mud over that much foam? Doesn’t that weaken the edges? The leveler recommends a gap right up next to the wall, with adhesive weather stripping. The stripping at the store is like 3/16th inch thick, which you would stick to the very bottom of wall.
At the end, it looked like it didn't cover the whole floor. Did you have to add more, or did you just continue spreading it after ending the video? Also,what did you do with the spray foam afterwards? I imagine you scraped it out, then hand filled the remaining inch or so? Or did you just fill it in with thinset while tiling?
Great video,I would make sure that all those cracks on the concrete floor are filled with sand or silicone to prevent compound to go inside
My dear friend just a reminder . After you cleaned the floor you have to tackle the floor cracks with a membrane crack suppression. Them you most prime the floor with underlayment primer then you adjust the height you want with the spreader tool that is adjustable not a window squeegee
Need try a vitrex spoked roller
Really flows it out better than a guage rake
What to use to level uneven cement board walls. Used some speed set but told it’s for setting tile, then speed finish but said to utilize it as final skim coat after waterproofing to create a better surface for bonding shower panels too
You are absolutely correct, self leveler is much better than using thinset as a build-up which I've been guilty of before, would have taken me 20 bags on that job to set tile using thinset😨
I will essentially do what he does with thinset when they cant a Ford 20 bags of self level it's easy saves time and money
Yea, I followed someones advice about using thinset to level the floor, what a waste of time and money, project did not turn out good. Going to prime tile, pour underlayment, and put down a floating vinyl plank.
Thinset $16... Self leveler$35 you crazzy
Draconic Windbane if they can’t a Ford self level they can’t Chevy me.
Carlos Cantu I’m $65 an hour. Self leveler is cheaper.
Well Isaac you become really good at :)
Great job
Thank you very much: exactly what i was looking for.
2:55 Ops... Where is the bounding / priming coat? would it be an important pre-requisite before pouring leveling compound based on compound's manufacturer instructions?
@rayturnertile Doesn’t he say in the very beginning that he primed it the day before?
Can you tile directly onto the self leveling underlayment? Is it too smooth for good adhesion to the thinset?
Hi, if the subfloor is too thin and is not leveled and i want to add a plywood, do i need to add leveler first or do i place the plywood first then use the leveler compound? Also, do i need to have the 1.25" subfloor under a bathtub or can I just leave that 3/4"? Thanks
can I mix multiple buckets like 6 before I start pouring like you did? Would the 1st few buckets start to harden while in the bucket?