The first time I tried to use Tung oil I soaked the guitar neck in it overnight and did not wipe off the excess. It then took 3 days soaking the guitar neck in solvents to remove the excess tung oil, and I never did really get it all out. I gave up on that neck as I recall (due to fretting issues and the tung oil). Since then, I've used tung, linseed, poly, lacquer, shellac, acrylic, enamel, mineral oil, and paste wax on various builds. Tung (a harder resin) seems to be superior to linseed (a gummier resin) and is my preference for oil finishes. Generally, I prefer lacquer because I like glossier finishes and there are no sand-thru issues like with layers of poly. Also, lacquer seems to be a bit slicker (lower friction) than poly, which makes for a faster neck due to a low friction finish (I actually do Teflon tape coated necks now). Acrylics are nice and fast drying, but don't build well, and can have layer sand-thru issues like poly. Shellacs are awesome - but not alcohol resistant. Enamels are required for some clearcoat over metalflake applications.
excellent timing- i'm oil finishing a guitar body tonight, & this totally helps! i totally dig the experiments (i'm a jeweler playing with luthiery) & i'm down for the journey, but this brass-tacks technique is just what i needed- thankee!
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is there a video where Ben shows how to make those circle inlays on the fretboard? I guess you need to drill a hole, insert a slice of brass tube and fill the inside with ebony powder and super glue? Of is there a better way to keep the fretboard wood on the inside of the circle?
Ben, this was brilliant! I have scoured all the Crimson videos from the past, trying to find tips & tricks for staining and oil finishing over the years. It's nice to have a video focused on just oil. Could you maybe do an updated video on Crimson water based and oil based stains too?
Coffee filters to apply this might work well. I use them to apply polyurethane, and also to polish between final coats. And they are cheap as possible. In fact, I apply poly much like you apply the oil here...super thin coats...wipe as mucb excess off as possible. Initially coat every 4 hours...final coats every 24 hours. I dont build guitars though, well, I am just now learning with my first Ukulele build. I will give an oil finish a shot on my next wood working project. I have only ever used linseed oil when I was a teenager on some rough work.
When cabinet building I've used flower paper which you could use with your oil as it would leave your surface contaminated so I think using a fret polishing rubber is a fantastic idea
Great product, great oil finish, I've gotten great results. The first time though, I mistakenly went too fast, ended up getting some stickiness that didnt dry for like 3 months. In the end, the guitar looks amazing but the color wears very quickly in high moisture and rubbing spots. After a year it looks like I've been playing it for 20. Hands down my favorite mistake so far. Great channel, great products. I'll always pay for shipping here to avoid stewmac pricing.
Great video! My favorite method for applying oil: sand to 160 or 240 grit, then rub a thin layer of oil into the wood with the rough side of a kitchen sponge or some 3M sanding vlies. Grab the sponge with some tool to prevent splinters from getting in your fingers. Quick & easy, give it a try :-)
What a piece of wood. What a finish and what a guitar it will be! Look forward to this being completed! I find, after a fretboard refinish/clean/polish, I have a fair amount of fallout from the fret rubbers, so I was interested to hear about if they affected your ultimate finish - clearly they did not! I will be fettling the instruments of Pete Williams, this weekend, and a full range of your wonderful tools and materials will be being brought to bear upon them, to make them beautiful and a delight to play! Cheers to you Ben and your inspirational gang! 🥰🥰🎸🎸☕️☕️🍺🍺
Ben, you're brilliant. What a man can do whit a piece of wood, oil and a rubber😅 I have made an electric upright bass, and it screems for a oil treatment like this. Thanks and keep going on!👍
Good work Ben! I am wondering though, just how much of a difference does the shellac make in the final appearance and the durability of the finish? I have a raw wood body that I'm looking to apply this sort of finish to but have never used shellac. Ta.
This is a fabulous tutorial for those of us who don't really have space for a spray booth. Question: Would you be adverse to me linking to this video from one of my upcoming videos?
Hey Ben, I had a tiny question. Maybe sit down or find something to hold onto before reading it though 😆 How many guitars have you started, not completed, and *not been working on*? I'm currently in the process of learning to finish things I start, and it's not easy for me. And I don't even own several companies. And I don't have ADHD. So yeah, just a thought worth having.
Hey Ben! Would it be a good thing to use the super fine fret eraser on a finished guitar with a stain underneath, but it has some small bubble like finish blemishes etc?
I’m a little confused about the purpose of the shellac? I thought it sealed up the wood - but at one point you said there were open pores on this guitar.
Saw some basses with a cavity in the headstock. How much does the perceived weight of a typical guitar come from balance vs physical weight (ignoring stupidly heavy bodies)?
I completely understand why you made the decision to help with your ADHD symptoms. I've done the same in the past year. I do, however, miss the manic Ben.
Yup. I have a tin of Danish Oil with "warning: applicator cloths may self ignite". I couldn't tell you which chemical is generating the heat and which finishes do/dont contain it, but it's always worth reading the smallprint.
It's definitely real. My grandpa's shed burned down years ago because my uncle was staining some cabinets, and didn't properly dispose of the rags. It started the garbage can on fire, then took the whole shed! I always keep a 1 gallon ice cream bucket half full of water to submerge oil/varnish/stain rags in.
Absolutely. Get a fire-proof trash can if you do a lot - or even a moderate amount! - of finishing. Bourbon Moth Woodworking did a great video on this a year or so ago - I immediately ordered a fire-proof can...
Cannot watch it because of the Lousy lighting and I have followed you for Years since your beginning on YT..... I now give up once and for all. Impossible to watch..sorry Ben. Im gone!
The first time I tried to use Tung oil I soaked the guitar neck in it overnight and did not wipe off the excess. It then took 3 days soaking the guitar neck in solvents to remove the excess tung oil, and I never did really get it all out. I gave up on that neck as I recall (due to fretting issues and the tung oil). Since then, I've used tung, linseed, poly, lacquer, shellac, acrylic, enamel, mineral oil, and paste wax on various builds. Tung (a harder resin) seems to be superior to linseed (a gummier resin) and is my preference for oil finishes. Generally, I prefer lacquer because I like glossier finishes and there are no sand-thru issues like with layers of poly. Also, lacquer seems to be a bit slicker (lower friction) than poly, which makes for a faster neck due to a low friction finish (I actually do Teflon tape coated necks now). Acrylics are nice and fast drying, but don't build well, and can have layer sand-thru issues like poly. Shellacs are awesome - but not alcohol resistant. Enamels are required for some clearcoat over metalflake applications.
This is the third time I've seen this video and I just love the way you do the oiling on the guitar and the Finnish you get
excellent timing- i'm oil finishing a guitar body tonight, & this totally helps! i totally dig the experiments (i'm a jeweler playing with luthiery) & i'm down for the journey, but this brass-tacks technique is just what i needed- thankee!
is there a video where Ben shows how to make those circle inlays on the fretboard?
I guess you need to drill a hole, insert a slice of brass tube and fill the inside with ebony powder and super glue? Of is there a better way to keep the fretboard wood on the inside of the circle?
I think you could do with a little more light in you home studio.
Ben, this was brilliant! I have scoured all the Crimson videos from the past, trying to find tips & tricks for staining and oil finishing over the years. It's nice to have a video focused on just oil. Could you maybe do an updated video on Crimson water based and oil based stains too?
Coffee filters to apply this might work well. I use them to apply polyurethane, and also to polish between final coats. And they are cheap as possible. In fact, I apply poly much like you apply the oil here...super thin coats...wipe as mucb excess off as possible. Initially coat every 4 hours...final coats every 24 hours. I dont build guitars though, well, I am just now learning with my first Ukulele build. I will give an oil finish a shot on my next wood working project. I have only ever used linseed oil when I was a teenager on some rough work.
When cabinet building I've used flower paper which you could use with your oil as it would leave your surface contaminated so I think using a fret polishing rubber is a fantastic idea
I have a part built guitar with a ridiculously gnarly piece of yew for the body. I now know exactly what finish I will be going for. 👏👏👏😍
Good to know about using the oils on shellac. I've found myself with a lot of shellac.
Great product, great oil finish, I've gotten great results. The first time though, I mistakenly went too fast, ended up getting some stickiness that didnt dry for like 3 months. In the end, the guitar looks amazing but the color wears very quickly in high moisture and rubbing spots. After a year it looks like I've been playing it for 20. Hands down my favorite mistake so far. Great channel, great products. I'll always pay for shipping here to avoid stewmac pricing.
Hi Ben, can you please make a video similar to this one, but regarding the other wipe on finish of Crimson?
Great video! My favorite method for applying oil: sand to 160 or 240 grit, then rub a thin layer of oil into the wood with the rough side of a kitchen sponge or some 3M sanding vlies. Grab the sponge with some tool to prevent splinters from getting in your fingers. Quick & easy, give it a try :-)
What a piece of wood. What a finish and what a guitar it will be!
Look forward to this being completed!
I find, after a fretboard refinish/clean/polish, I have a fair amount of fallout from the fret rubbers, so I was interested to hear about if they affected your ultimate finish - clearly they did not!
I will be fettling the instruments of Pete Williams, this weekend, and a full range of your wonderful tools and materials will be being brought to bear upon them, to make them beautiful and a delight to play!
Cheers to you Ben and your inspirational gang! 🥰🥰🎸🎸☕️☕️🍺🍺
Ben, you're brilliant.
What a man can do whit a piece of wood, oil and a rubber😅
I have made an electric upright bass, and it screems for a oil treatment like this.
Thanks and keep going on!👍
I would be very interested to experiment with rubbers on finishes! Very interested! ❤
Good work Ben! I am wondering though, just how much of a difference does the shellac make in the final appearance and the durability of the finish? I have a raw wood body that I'm looking to apply this sort of finish to but have never used shellac. Ta.
Superb, great vid, 👍😊 kushti !
This is a fabulous tutorial for those of us who don't really have space for a spray booth.
Question: Would you be adverse to me linking to this video from one of my upcoming videos?
Love this look on the body what a guitar
Love that beautifully applied finish. Is the wood Elm?
Awesome tutorial! Its a bit pricey to get the Crimson oil to Australia, would the same process apply to locally available Danish oil?
Can you do a video like this but with the wipe on lacquer and the melamine finish please?
Yes!
Just got a walnut-handled porta filter for my coffee machine to try this on! 😅
Thanks for this Ben, great video. Question: would this process also work for an oil-based varnish like Danish Oil?
Ben great finish .
but the lighting is dark!
Thanks for sharing.
great video
would this technic work with danish oil or tru-oil ?
Hey Ben, I had a tiny question. Maybe sit down or find something to hold onto before reading it though 😆
How many guitars have you started, not completed, and *not been working on*? I'm currently in the process of learning to finish things I start, and it's not easy for me. And I don't even own several companies. And I don't have ADHD. So yeah, just a thought worth having.
Doesn't using Shellac/sanding sealer prevent the wood from soaking up the oil and defeating the whole purpose of using oil?
Beautiful!
Would you use this on the fretboard and neck as well?
I use mineral oil for the pad when french polishing, do you think guitar finishing oil would work?
Ben, any chance of building a left-handed guitar for us Lefties (to win)?
Is it just boiled linseed oil, that you are using?
Can you use this method on a guitar kit with a bound body, or does the oil do odd things to plastic binding/adhesives?
Hey Ben! Would it be a good thing to use the super fine fret eraser on a finished guitar with a stain underneath, but it has some small bubble like finish blemishes etc?
I’m a little confused about the purpose of the shellac? I thought it sealed up the wood - but at one point you said there were open pores on this guitar.
I’ve got a 50 year old blasting cap box I’ve used to build a body with, I’ve applied MinWax Paste wax on it, can I apply oil to the top of this?
Saw some basses with a cavity in the headstock. How much does the perceived weight of a typical guitar come from balance vs physical weight (ignoring stupidly heavy bodies)?
What kind of timber is that ?
A similar process to french polishing?
are you working in the dark?
I completely understand why you made the decision to help with your ADHD symptoms. I've done the same in the past year. I do, however, miss the manic Ben.
Hold on, self-combusting tissues!?
Yup. I have a tin of Danish Oil with "warning: applicator cloths may self ignite". I couldn't tell you which chemical is generating the heat and which finishes do/dont contain it, but it's always worth reading the smallprint.
it's a thing
It's definitely real. My grandpa's shed burned down years ago because my uncle was staining some cabinets, and didn't properly dispose of the rags. It started the garbage can on fire, then took the whole shed! I always keep a 1 gallon ice cream bucket half full of water to submerge oil/varnish/stain rags in.
Absolutely. Get a fire-proof trash can if you do a lot - or even a moderate amount! - of finishing. Bourbon Moth Woodworking did a great video on this a year or so ago - I immediately ordered a fire-proof can...
I don’t believe it tbh and I’ve never seen evidence of it happening,
It sounds like boiled linseed oil
How strange another one of my comments removed from this channel! Is it TH-cam or someone at crimson? 🤷 Hmmm
Bring back the old Ben.
Respectful moan/whinge - I know that filming with bright lights is a pain (literally) but would it be possible to sort the whitebalance? 🙏
Cannot watch it because of the Lousy lighting and I have followed you for Years since your beginning on YT..... I now give up once and for all. Impossible to watch..sorry Ben. Im gone!