Relaxing to watch and nicely done although I'm not sure I learnt much from it. I wish there was some sort of commentary either as you were doing it or added afterwards, just explaining what you're doing, what you're using and what sort of things your thinking of/looking out for/taking into consideration as you're doing it. That would be really helpful and add a lot of value to the video.
This is a AWESOME video...and guys...for those of you who made negative comments....look this isn't a hold your hand how to video....by the time your watching this...these skills should already be in your build knowledge...using tools...setting up necks and gluing...using stains and airbrushes...these are things that should be mastered on individual levels...this is a fantastic presentation showing a professional at his love.....well done....and BTW...beautiful purple quilted maple LP 👍👍👍👍
Well, some of us know how to set up guitars, intonation, neck adjustments, all that stuff. But for those of us that are building and putting color on for the first time, we'd like to know how to do it without really screwing it up. So, don't look down on us. Jerk....
Im about to finish a kit guitar for the first time with zero prior knowledge, and i found this video one of the best I've watched. The subs wer enough for me to get on with, and the confidence and care in real time were more inspiring than hearing someone bang on about it because they are a subject matter expert. I won't be able to attempt doing it like you did, most likely using spray cans, but will follow the same structure of activities. Your purple burst looked amazing btw
Yep, definitely needs a talk over explanation on what he’s doing, materials used, etc, etc. And cut out extraneous background noises, or record at a lower volume.
Wow that is the most gorgeous guitar I’ve ever seen. Love that color which was one of the candy colors I had painted on my blown gas flat show quality drag boat .
Never seen your videos before, but definitely appreciate the silent approach. Those of us who are visual do not need endless babble. Very cool, and nice touch with the reaction at the end. Love that wifey was just as excited as hubby to see it. Wholesome moment and your work was at the centre of it.
@@ADFinlayson Lol that’s cool mate. Imagine a fair bit of time needs investing into creating a video to post and we don’t always have that luxury of spare time so I get it. Enjoy watching what you do post up regardless 👍🏻
@@petecoates6410 Sorry to disappoint you but it's actually the Stewmac buffer, I just build the stand for it. I was going to make one but when I totted up all the parts, it didn't work out much cheaper than the Stewmac one when it was on sale and the stewmac one came with mops and compound.
Dude, your work is outstanding. It would be interesting to have a commentary on the video about the materials you use, why and also why you use the overall approach that you do. Beautiful work.
Holy hell, man! I'm a 47 year old, physically disabled man who's been divorced now for about 3 years and loving every moment of my somewhat new existence in this world, as my daughters are grown now as well so it's just me. I've played guitar since I was young and, now that I DEFINITELY have the time, even though I'm still kinda low on the funds, I've decided to build my very first. Not gonna lie, never been a huge fan of wood finishes at all, as I thought I'd seen all of them. BUT the way that wood grain stands out with that purple color and the dark stained back is GORGEOUS! Now as we speak, I'm browsing the internet looking for "quilted maple les paul kits" 😆. But because I was a professional tattoo artist for years before getting injured, I guess I can't help myself but to add a bit to mine. I'm thinking a dark wood stained back just like yours, with a dark pink dyed top. Then up in the top corner somewhere, not covering too much of the grain, a '60s style pinup model. Just wondering what you think about the idea and if you might have any tips for a newbie like myself. Also, I'm assuming it would be safe to paint her on TOP of the dyed wood? Thanks in advance for any help and once again, that's one BEAUTIFUL guitar!
I really enjoyed the video and love the results. I read through all the comments you replied to, and judging by your level of sarcasm, you must be tired of answering why there's no commentary. I agree with the masses, but for a different reason. After reviewing the questions, most are about the products used and a lot less about your techniques, and I would also fall into that category. I think a simple matrix of what you used all in one place would answer the larger majority of users' questions and save you a LOT of time and frustration. Although I enjoyed the sarcasm, and you kinda earned the right IMO. I know I'm not immune, so fire away :) I have never built a guitar or attempted a finish, so after seeing this video, I became inspired and bought a guitar kit with a maple flame top. My only hope for my first guitar finish is that I don't completely botch it. I feel I can follow your techniques by watching the video, but, my inner beginner needs more specifics on the products. I took moments of your video and tried to piece everything together the best I could. Would it be too much to ask for you to correct me and fill in the blanks or add a bit more detail where necessary? 1000 thanks in advance. Sealing faux bindings - Chestnut Sanding Sealer Neck glue up - ? Grain fill DIY - th-cam.com/video/Hx-6Mhd31qQ/w-d-xo.html Preparing to spray some cherry shader - Spirit-based dye added to thinned-down lacquer Clearcoat to protect the color - ? Raising the grain before applying dye - Damp rag with water Applying dye diluted about 50/50 - Angelus Purple, diluted with? Acetone pulls out excess dye and helps to blend colour - ? Brand ? Sanding sealer to prevent colours from running - Chestnut Sanding Sealer ? Clear coat - Morrells lacquer Spraying the edge burst - ? Building up the clearcoats - Morrells lacquer leveling the laquer - After 3 weeks, 1200 on top and 800 on the back. buffing - Chemical Guys swirl remove
Great video, what a stunning finish. So good to see you back here. Looking forward to catching up with the other videos. All the best and keep up the great work.
I do custom painting and airbrushing on the side and I have to say I'm not nearly as meticoulous as you are. You are truely an artist in your craft. Cudo's to you my friend. 👏👍👌
Ok so many questions!!!! What and did you seal/prep before the color stains? Did you apply with a sandpaper? Sounds scratchy? Is it water based? Same for sealer? Need a supply list please!!! @A D?
for the back and neck I applied a grain filler that I made straight on the wood (there is a video on my channel on how I make my grainfiller). The top does not get any sealer before dye, dye on to bare wood then sanding sealer over the top to stop the colour running. All the finishes I used including sealer are cellulose based, even the grainfiller has lacquer in it.
beautiful top on that guitar. the craftsmanship on the wood is excellent. I'm sure it was cleaned up, but there was noticeable purple bleed onto the faux binding. I'd be concerned if it wasn't...
Great video, thanks. Tip for others.. allow plenty of time for the finish to harden before trying to sand and polish. The harder it is the better the result. Learned that painting cars.
What kind of time frame would be reasonable between spraying and a re-coat or sand? I guess environmental conditions play a role in the hardening time?
@@YoureNowOnTV yes and what you're spraying too, this is pre-catalysed cellulose lacquer so it cures pretty quickly. I tend to leave 30-45 minutes between coats - I know I can leave lacquer in the gun for that long without issue, and I'll spray max 3 coats per day. If I want to level between coats, then I'll normally spray 3 coats in the day and level sand (dry) the following morning. I won't wet sand and spray on the same day. The manufacture says this can be buffed within 3 days but I'll always leave at least 10 days before doing final level and buffing because it will still shrink into the grain. If I was spraying traditional nitrocellulose, I'll leave it at least 2 weeks before doing and level sanding (apart from the odd bit of denibbing) because it takes that much longer to harden and shrink into the grain.
@@YoureNowOnTVThe time between coats is normally specified in the instructions. The time between applying a coats and sanding it is normally a lot longer. With most products I make a test on scrap wood and leave them overnight. It varies a lot. Some primers you can carefully sand after a few hours if you don't allow the paper to clog, but with some gloss paints they recommend allowing a week. In general the harder the finish is the better the gloss you can polish in. If you are polishing away with compound and it's not getting better it's probably still too soft. Edit: When wet sanding by hand the paper tends to clog if the paint is too soft. When it's nice and hard it tends to make a fine slurry you can wash out of the paper.
To get the back plates to perfectly match you can cut them out of the mahogany body using a very fine blade in a scroll saw or fret saw before gluing the maple cap on. You can glue the block back once you cut the cover off, then machine out the cavity to give the needed recess for the back plate to sit on. This method will make the back plates almost disappear.
Hi, thanks for the video. Superb! One question: when staining/finishing a headstock that has an inlay on it, how do you avoid staining the inlay itself? Do you mask it (some inlays are lines, so thin, that masking is difficult or not an option). If you sand it, you also sando over the finish... so, how do you do it? Thank you very much! Best regards!
Good question, if you're using pearl then it should really stain the inlay, just make sure you've sanded it well. You could also stick to water based dye and use some minteral spirits to wipe down the inlay once the dye is thoroughly dry or even try light sanding with a high grit like 400-600, if you pull a tiny bit of colour out of the maple headstock veneer then it's not the end of the world, it will just make the figure pop a bit more.
Great work. I have a build I am doing, I want to put the faux binding on it, what to i use to seal it so the dye doesn't seep down on it? The finish is my Achilles heel. Thanks in advance.
Very good angles on al lthe techniques; I'm most interested in a list of the products (and potentially even the tools) you used for this process. What kind of stain, grain fill, poly coat etc. Are you using here?
I use angelus dye to do the purple with a cotton rag. The grainfiller I made myself - I have a video on that th-cam.com/video/Hx-6Mhd31qQ/w-d-xo.html and the finish is Morrells cellulose lacquer
Terrific job, as expected. Well done. You inspired me to buy my first kit (les paul with quilted maple top). About staining: how do I get a light pink stain/grain in quilted maple under light grey? It is possible at all? Thanks in advance! :)
TBH I think you will struggle to get that affect with a veneered top on a kit. To get that colour you need to dye it black and do a lot of sanding back before dying it pink. You really need a solid cap for that or you risk sanding through the veneer
Greetings ! That is a great video ,it greatly helped me understand the finishing routine. I would like to ask you if you have used automotive polyurethane and wether it mixes well with stains or not , to achieve a transparent look . Thanks in advance !
@@ADFinlayson Sorry mate, last question, I promise. Let's say I did a flame top, hit it with black and sanded back to accentuate black lines. Afterwards, I went in with purple. If I used acetone like you do here, would it inadvertently affect the underlying black stain?
@@ADFinlayson Hey boss, sorry to bug you again. Same question as before, but if I go in first with black, sand back, apply purple, am I going to screw something up in the deeper black layer if I try to blend with acetone?
These have been a huge help prior to doing a stain job on a tele body that I have. One question that I have. Do you not sand the sanding sealer after it has had time to dry and before the clear coat?
HI great video, but could do with some detail such what product used if not brand the type, and "raisng the grain before dyeing, what did you use to raise the grain water? as i say some details would be greatly appreciated many thanks, what grit of sandpaper you advise at the stages etc, edit *** its a lovley finish, Im building a Les Paul style guitar at the moment, mine Ive put a Flame maple veneer on it, its a mahogany body same as yours with a maple neck im torn between letting the Mahogany & maple show, or a solid rich deep blue to match a rich blue dye finish on the veneer.
Hello, What kind of clearcoat is it? Polyurethane or nitro? If it’s nitro, do you use a solvent to diluate? (You use a minijet, I guess with a 0.5 mm nozzle?) Thank you
Quick question, my take away from watching this is that you can spray the lacquer on a little heavier then you would say a paint finish, even though it is kind of starting to get they puddled look like it's almost gonna run but it isn't, it's just swirly, It doesn't matter because your just gonna come back in the next step and level it anyways and then polish and buff it so those steps are gonna take it back down to a flat even finish anyways. Does that sound right? Or am I thinking wrong? And when you leveled it, are you just using water to wet sand it basically? Or is that acetone or alcohol or something you got in the spray bottle?
the paint is thinned a fair bit, but I put on as much as I can in a coat without getting runs, otherwise I'll be spraying for weeks. The spray bottle is water with a few drops of dish soap.
Nice job guitar looks good. I know one thing if I decide to do this stuff, I'm going to make different color guitars , not just black and white. Gives each guitar its personal touch and character . 😎👍👋✌️🎸🎸
I just spray a bit of sealer in light mist coats to prevent the dye running or looking patchy then lacquer right over the top. It’s not as well prepped of a surface compared to a properly levelled base coat but with a few coats of cellulose melted into each other, it levels it’s self off quite nicely
Beautiful finish and purple is my favorite color. I didn’t see you use any grain filler on any part. You raised the grain on the front and dyed it. Did you sand it after using the acetone? If not, did the sanding sealer fill the grain? If so, how many coats? Also what kind of film did you cover the front with when you finished the back? Thank you!
I grainfilled the mahogany on the back, there is no need to grain fill maple. I raised the grain with water because it helps the alcohol dye penetrate the softer grains better. I only use sanding sealer on the top to help prevent colours running during the first couple of clear coats
Excellent work and stunning finish. Just when gluing the neck I would have have placed a block on the fretboard before clamping rather than clamp directly onto the frets themselves.
What a great video. Questions lol what clear did you use and how long did you leave before sanding back. And what compound ?. Sorry for all the questions.
Thats a nice purple!!! Why did you not not do the whole guitar purple? The brown/red clashes… not complimentary. Holy molly that quilted maple is something!!
I like to say I start with 1200 on the top and 800 on the back. But that's on a good day, it really depends how well the paint goes on and how good the grain-fill went.
What’s the name of the shade of purple stain you used? I’m about to use this video to help stain a guitar I made not to long ago and this color is the exact one I’ve been looking for
Thank you mate. I’m sure as a car painter you could give me a few tips. No it’s cellulose from Morrells. It’s my go to finish unless I want the paint to check, then I’ll use Dartfords nitrocellulose
if you watch my latest video, I do another purple guitar with full commentary, all my products and techniques explained th-cam.com/video/HjO5n86wiI0/w-d-xo.html
I have an issue with some pre drill holes on a kit I got and I believe the spacing is for a 51.99mm but I can only find wrap around bridges that are 52.5mm. Can you help me
I'm a fine furniture maker of 30 years. This video makes me want to make a Les Paul... That Quilted Maple was Bonkers !
I imagine you’ve already got a lot of the tools to get the job done 👍
Please make one. I'll watch
Quilted maple, poetry in wood!! Whenever I get myself a bass built, it will be quilted maple!!
Relaxing to watch and nicely done although I'm not sure I learnt much from it. I wish there was some sort of commentary either as you were doing it or added afterwards, just explaining what you're doing, what you're using and what sort of things your thinking of/looking out for/taking into consideration as you're doing it. That would be really helpful and add a lot of value to the video.
I concur
Watch his “How I STAIN and LACQUER a PRS style guitar - Part 1 of 2” video. It has a verbal story.
If you check my latest videos, I released one last week with full commentary
@@ADFinlayson
The look on his face (new owner), priceless.
Making the world a better place, one guitar at a time.
Very Stevo Timothy.
@@byteme9718 👍😉
This is a AWESOME video...and guys...for those of you who made negative comments....look this isn't a hold your hand how to video....by the time your watching this...these skills should already be in your build knowledge...using tools...setting up necks and gluing...using stains and airbrushes...these are things that should be mastered on individual levels...this is a fantastic presentation showing a professional at his love.....well done....and BTW...beautiful purple quilted maple LP 👍👍👍👍
Appreciate the comment mate, thank you
Well, some of us know how to set up guitars, intonation, neck adjustments, all that stuff. But for those of us that are building and putting color on for the first time, we'd like to know how to do it without really screwing it up. So, don't look down on us. Jerk....
Jamie, please keep your comments polite. If you check my latest videos you will see I released a how to video with full commentary last week
Im about to finish a kit guitar for the first time with zero prior knowledge, and i found this video one of the best I've watched. The subs wer enough for me to get on with, and the confidence and care in real time were more inspiring than hearing someone bang on about it because they are a subject matter expert. I won't be able to attempt doing it like you did, most likely using spray cans, but will follow the same structure of activities. Your purple burst looked amazing btw
Thank you mate, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your build
One word : Professional.
thank you
No idea what’s going on in this video. Can you overdub and talk about what you are using, techniques etc?
Seriously. Ain’t really helping me learn 😂
I agree... Even though there are some subtitles still ahould throw in some voice over....
I, Was enjoying it just fine. Not every year in high school did I, GET to take Shop. I, Learned a lil about a lil about of things. A lil later. ✌️🍻🕊️
Yep, definitely needs a talk over explanation on what he’s doing, materials used, etc, etc. And cut out extraneous background noises, or record at a lower volume.
Was gonna say the same thing, this video could have been a lot of help.
Its amazing that purple guitars aren't way more wide spread because they always look incredible
Wow that is the most gorgeous guitar I’ve ever seen. Love that color which was one of the candy colors I had painted on my blown gas flat show quality drag boat .
Thank you mate, glad you liked it
Never seen your videos before, but definitely appreciate the silent approach. Those of us who are visual do not need endless babble. Very cool, and nice touch with the reaction at the end. Love that wifey was just as excited as hubby to see it. Wholesome moment and your work was at the centre of it.
VERY well done! Thank you for sharing your expertise for other Luthiers. That is the sign of a true master of their craft.
Beautiful, beautiful instrument. Hope you enjoy it for years to come.
Congrats! Watching this beast being made was as fun as watching the new owner receive it. Absolutely beautiful.
Thank you mate
What a lovely and nice master-piece of artwork ...! Thanks a lot ffor this delicious video-clip! Love and peace on earth ...!!!
I love watching this stuff.......I enjoy doing on occasion too. awesome instrument you've built
Glad you enjoy it!
Beautiful guitar, great work
That’s a gorgeous guitar.
Thanks mate, thank you for watching
Great detail to the color and lacquer!
Going to look like a piece of grape candy when done!
Stunning and inspirational work. Congratulations.
Appreciate that, thanks for watching.
Ash
Love the colour and finish
Thank you mate
What a beautiful guitar, amazing work!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video
Another great video! I am learning a lot. You do make things look easy which I know is NOT the case. 😄
Stunning guitar! I currently have a hollow body LP type on my bench waiting to be carved. I'm loving your channel!
Glad you enjoyed the video, you should post some videos if you’re working on your own builds. Ash
One of the best Ive seen!
Really Great Work!
Appreciate that, thanks for watching.
I like the way you put that black veneer between the maple top and the body. I'm doing the same thing on my current build.
It’s a nice little separator, even if it does make more work of the glue up
I really enjoyed the video. Thanks for the time and effort you spent making it.
Thank you mate, glad you enjoyed it!
Love the fact you have posted some more videos recently mate. Been a fan of your stuff on here for a few years. Always build amazing looking guitars
Thank you mate, I appreciate that. Trying to make some time to fit in a bit of youtube content, but don't old me to it.
@@ADFinlayson Lol that’s cool mate. Imagine a fair bit of time needs investing into creating a video to post and we don’t always have that luxury of spare time so I get it. Enjoy watching what you do post up regardless 👍🏻
Fantastic work as ever - would be great to know which make of stains and lacquers youre using here. The guitars just keep getting better and better !
For this one I used, Angelus dye and Morrells Lacquer
@@ADFinlayson thats great thanks AD. Love the self build buffing wheel setup. Thats on my to do list for the new workshop!
@@petecoates6410 Sorry to disappoint you but it's actually the Stewmac buffer, I just build the stand for it. I was going to make one but when I totted up all the parts, it didn't work out much cheaper than the Stewmac one when it was on sale and the stewmac one came with mops and compound.
Dude, your work is outstanding. It would be interesting to have a commentary on the video about the materials you use, why and also why you use the overall approach that you do. Beautiful work.
If you wait 2 weeks, exactly that is coming
Holy hell, man! I'm a 47 year old, physically disabled man who's been divorced now for about 3 years and loving every moment of my somewhat new existence in this world, as my daughters are grown now as well so it's just me. I've played guitar since I was young and, now that I DEFINITELY have the time, even though I'm still kinda low on the funds, I've decided to build my very first. Not gonna lie, never been a huge fan of wood finishes at all, as I thought I'd seen all of them. BUT the way that wood grain stands out with that purple color and the dark stained back is GORGEOUS! Now as we speak, I'm browsing the internet looking for "quilted maple les paul kits" 😆. But because I was a professional tattoo artist for years before getting injured, I guess I can't help myself but to add a bit to mine. I'm thinking a dark wood stained back just like yours, with a dark pink dyed top. Then up in the top corner somewhere, not covering too much of the grain, a '60s style pinup model. Just wondering what you think about the idea and if you might have any tips for a newbie like myself. Also, I'm assuming it would be safe to paint her on TOP of the dyed wood? Thanks in advance for any help and once again, that's one BEAUTIFUL guitar!
It was pleasure watching your work.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching
Love the colour ❤
I really enjoyed the video and love the results. I read through all the comments you replied to, and judging by your level of sarcasm, you must be tired of answering why there's no commentary. I agree with the masses, but for a different reason. After reviewing the questions, most are about the products used and a lot less about your techniques, and I would also fall into that category. I think a simple matrix of what you used all in one place would answer the larger majority of users' questions and save you a LOT of time and frustration. Although I enjoyed the sarcasm, and you kinda earned the right IMO. I know I'm not immune, so fire away :)
I have never built a guitar or attempted a finish, so after seeing this video, I became inspired and bought a guitar kit with a maple flame top. My only hope for my first guitar finish is that I don't completely botch it. I feel I can follow your techniques by watching the video, but, my inner beginner needs more specifics on the products.
I took moments of your video and tried to piece everything together the best I could. Would it be too much to ask for you to correct me and fill in the blanks or add a bit more detail where necessary? 1000 thanks in advance.
Sealing faux bindings - Chestnut Sanding Sealer
Neck glue up - ?
Grain fill DIY - th-cam.com/video/Hx-6Mhd31qQ/w-d-xo.html
Preparing to spray some cherry shader - Spirit-based dye added to thinned-down lacquer
Clearcoat to protect the color - ?
Raising the grain before applying dye - Damp rag with water
Applying dye diluted about 50/50 - Angelus Purple, diluted with?
Acetone pulls out excess dye and helps to blend colour - ? Brand ?
Sanding sealer to prevent colours from running - Chestnut Sanding Sealer ?
Clear coat - Morrells lacquer
Spraying the edge burst - ?
Building up the clearcoats - Morrells lacquer
leveling the laquer - After 3 weeks, 1200 on top and 800 on the back.
buffing - Chemical Guys swirl remove
I appreciate the sentiment, but the people that leave the narky comments aren't the sort of people that read the comments.
Nice! Got a double neck I got to do!
Great video, what a stunning finish. So good to see you back here. Looking forward to catching up with the other videos. All the best and keep up the great work.
Cheers Paul!
What a lovely purple
Freeking AWESOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Love that Tiger picture on his wall , I want a guitar like that !!!!!!!!!
Thank you. Tiger picture on the wall?
Wonderful video and stunning work.
Thank you Chris, glad you enjoyed it
Insanely helpful for a beginning luthier. Hope I can get spraybooth access eventually...thanks so much for this, subscribed!
Thanks for watching!
You don't need a spray booth and he doesn't have one.
Amazing, thank you so much for sharing your process and knowledge.
You're welcome mate, thanks for watching
I do custom painting and airbrushing on the side and I have to say I'm not nearly as meticoulous as you are. You are truely an artist in your craft. Cudo's to you my friend. 👏👍👌
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video
Ok so many questions!!!!
What and did you seal/prep before the color stains? Did you apply with a sandpaper? Sounds scratchy? Is it water based?
Same for sealer? Need a supply list please!!! @A D?
for the back and neck I applied a grain filler that I made straight on the wood (there is a video on my channel on how I make my grainfiller). The top does not get any sealer before dye, dye on to bare wood then sanding sealer over the top to stop the colour running. All the finishes I used including sealer are cellulose based, even the grainfiller has lacquer in it.
beautiful top on that guitar. the craftsmanship on the wood is excellent. I'm sure it was cleaned up, but there was noticeable purple bleed onto the faux binding. I'd be concerned if it wasn't...
Thx for the video. You’re such a careful craftsman.
Appreciate the compliment, thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks. Tip for others.. allow plenty of time for the finish to harden before trying to sand and polish. The harder it is the better the result. Learned that painting cars.
Good advice, even more prevalent with wood too as the lacquer will always shrink down into the grain, no matter how well filled it is.
What kind of time frame would be reasonable between spraying and a re-coat or sand? I guess environmental conditions play a role in the hardening time?
@@YoureNowOnTV yes and what you're spraying too, this is pre-catalysed cellulose lacquer so it cures pretty quickly. I tend to leave 30-45 minutes between coats - I know I can leave lacquer in the gun for that long without issue, and I'll spray max 3 coats per day. If I want to level between coats, then I'll normally spray 3 coats in the day and level sand (dry) the following morning. I won't wet sand and spray on the same day. The manufacture says this can be buffed within 3 days but I'll always leave at least 10 days before doing final level and buffing because it will still shrink into the grain.
If I was spraying traditional nitrocellulose, I'll leave it at least 2 weeks before doing and level sanding (apart from the odd bit of denibbing) because it takes that much longer to harden and shrink into the grain.
@@YoureNowOnTVThe time between coats is normally specified in the instructions. The time between applying a coats and sanding it is normally a lot longer. With most products I make a test on scrap wood and leave them overnight. It varies a lot. Some primers you can carefully sand after a few hours if you don't allow the paper to clog, but with some gloss paints they recommend allowing a week. In general the harder the finish is the better the gloss you can polish in. If you are polishing away with compound and it's not getting better it's probably still too soft. Edit: When wet sanding by hand the paper tends to clog if the paint is too soft. When it's nice and hard it tends to make a fine slurry you can wash out of the paper.
@@ADFinlayson Thanks so much for taking the time to reply to my questions. Greatly appreciated! 😀👍
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this. Beautiful guitar! Thanks for sharing your experience and techniques.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
To get the back plates to perfectly match you can cut them out of the mahogany body using a very fine blade in a scroll saw or fret saw before gluing the maple cap on. You can glue the block back once you cut the cover off, then machine out the cavity to give the needed recess for the back plate to sit on. This method will make the back plates almost disappear.
Nice color....looks like one I did 👍
Gorgeous piece of art, congrats 👏👏👏👍👍
Appreciate that mate, thanks for watching.
A Very talented Professional 🐝💤👍
Thank you mate
Hi, thanks for the video. Superb! One question: when staining/finishing a headstock that has an inlay on it, how do you avoid staining the inlay itself? Do you mask it (some inlays are lines, so thin, that masking is difficult or not an option). If you sand it, you also sando over the finish... so, how do you do it? Thank you very much! Best regards!
Good question, if you're using pearl then it should really stain the inlay, just make sure you've sanded it well. You could also stick to water based dye and use some minteral spirits to wipe down the inlay once the dye is thoroughly dry or even try light sanding with a high grit like 400-600, if you pull a tiny bit of colour out of the maple headstock veneer then it's not the end of the world, it will just make the figure pop a bit more.
Great work. I have a build I am doing, I want to put the faux binding on it, what to i use to seal it so the dye doesn't seep down on it? The finish is my Achilles heel. Thanks in advance.
Sanding sealer
Brilliant! Though my Les Paul studio doesn’t have a figured maple top it could use a nicer finish.
Fabulous video. Thank you! After using grain filler, you sprayed a red shader. What is that shader made of?
Thank you mate, spirit based dye added to thinned-down lacquer
Would it make much sense to use painters tape on the quilted maple top when drilling the bridge post holes to help prevent tear-out? Just a thought.
If a drill bit wants to tear the wood, tape isn’t going to help.
Great job!Excellent
Very good angles on al lthe techniques; I'm most interested in a list of the products (and potentially even the tools) you used for this process. What kind of stain, grain fill, poly coat etc. Are you using here?
I use angelus dye to do the purple with a cotton rag. The grainfiller I made myself - I have a video on that th-cam.com/video/Hx-6Mhd31qQ/w-d-xo.html and the finish is Morrells cellulose lacquer
Fantastic process! How long did you let the clearcoat cure before adding on the hardware.
Thank you, I normally leave it a few weeks before buffing, I’ll had hardware as soon as I’m happy with the buff
Excellent job!
Terrific job, as expected. Well done.
You inspired me to buy my first kit (les paul with quilted maple top).
About staining: how do I get a light pink stain/grain in quilted maple under light grey? It is possible at all?
Thanks in advance! :)
Ps: vik guitars are my colour reference (the type of paint job I'm looking for)
TBH I think you will struggle to get that affect with a veneered top on a kit. To get that colour you need to dye it black and do a lot of sanding back before dying it pink. You really need a solid cap for that or you risk sanding through the veneer
Amazing video, that dudes joy when seeing his new guitar was awesome. Proud of you buddy 🤘🤘🤘
Thanks bud 🙏
Beautiful job, and very inspiring!
Thank you Troy, thanks for watching.
Ash
? What did you brush onto the binding in the beginning and why? Beautiful work.
Sanding sealer, helps prevent dye soaking down into the sides
What type of dye do you recommend? Ive seen Analine, water soluble powders, etc. Also, do you have a video on how to cut inlays?
watch my latest video Shawn, I explain all my products and processes th-cam.com/video/HjO5n86wiI0/w-d-xo.html
Greetings ! That is a great video ,it greatly helped me understand the finishing routine. I would like to ask you if you have used automotive polyurethane and wether it mixes well with stains or not , to achieve a transparent look . Thanks in advance !
Thanks for watching, I have never sprayed poly so I couldn't give you an informed answer, sorry.
@@ADFinlayson Its ok ! Thank you very much !
Can you explain what type color dye you use & what liquid you mix it with?
angelus leather dye, diluted in a bit of acetone
Wonderful work! I'm not sure if I missed it in the comments, but why does the burst go on after a couple layers of clear?
if anything went wrong applying the burst, you'd be able to lightly sand it off without going through the stain and sealer
@@ADFinlayson Very smart. So you hit it with 2 layers of clear, burst, then 3-4 additional layers of clear?
more like another 10 coats of clear.. with cellulose you want lots of thin coats. If spraying 2k you would spray 3 thick coats
@@ADFinlayson Sorry mate, last question, I promise. Let's say I did a flame top, hit it with black and sanded back to accentuate black lines. Afterwards, I went in with purple. If I used acetone like you do here, would it inadvertently affect the underlying black stain?
@@ADFinlayson Hey boss, sorry to bug you again. Same question as before, but if I go in first with black, sand back, apply purple, am I going to screw something up in the deeper black layer if I try to blend with acetone?
Que bello trabajo, gracias por compartirlo. Felicidades 👍
Thank you mate
These have been a huge help prior to doing a stain job on a tele body that I have. One question that I have. Do you not sand the sanding sealer after it has had time to dry and before the clear coat?
No, I only use sanding sealer to prevent the stain from running. I’m not using it as a base coat
Stunningly beautiful.
Thank you mate
Thanks for posting.
Subscribed just because of the grain filler description. Awesome work. Do you have like a signature style build, something not Les Paul or Fender?
Thank you mate, I will build anything within reason, I usually just make what people ask me to make.
HI great video, but could do with some detail such what product used if not brand the type, and "raisng the grain before dyeing, what did you use to raise the grain water? as i say some details would be greatly appreciated many thanks, what grit of sandpaper you advise at the stages etc, edit *** its a lovley finish, Im building a Les Paul style guitar at the moment, mine Ive put a Flame maple veneer on it, its a mahogany body same as yours with a maple neck im torn between letting the Mahogany & maple show, or a solid rich deep blue to match a rich blue dye finish on the veneer.
Yes, a damp rag to wet the grain, that's all
@@ADFinlayson thanks
Hello,
What kind of clearcoat is it?
Polyurethane or nitro?
If it’s nitro, do you use a solvent to diluate? (You use a minijet, I guess with a 0.5 mm nozzle?)
Thank you
Nitrocellulose with cellulose thinners. It’s a 1.1mm tip
Purple and gold hardware . Wow .
Now some Gold pickup covers
Very beautiful work but hardly a complete guide.
Quick question, my take away from watching this is that you can spray the lacquer on a little heavier then you would say a paint finish, even though it is kind of starting to get they puddled look like it's almost gonna run but it isn't, it's just swirly, It doesn't matter because your just gonna come back in the next step and level it anyways and then polish and buff it so those steps are gonna take it back down to a flat even finish anyways. Does that sound right? Or am I thinking wrong? And when you leveled it, are you just using water to wet sand it basically? Or is that acetone or alcohol or something you got in the spray bottle?
the paint is thinned a fair bit, but I put on as much as I can in a coat without getting runs, otherwise I'll be spraying for weeks. The spray bottle is water with a few drops of dish soap.
Nice job guitar looks good. I know one thing if I decide to do this stuff, I'm going to make different color guitars , not just black and white. Gives each guitar its personal touch and character . 😎👍👋✌️🎸🎸
Thank you. The great thing about maple is you can dye it almost any colour and still see the beautiful figure
@@ADFinlayson 👍👋💯
Very nice work Sir!
Realy nice work! Thank you. One question left: did you don‘t do sanding between sealer and lack coat?
I just spray a bit of sealer in light mist coats to prevent the dye running or looking patchy then lacquer right over the top. It’s not as well prepped of a surface compared to a properly levelled base coat but with a few coats of cellulose melted into each other, it levels it’s self off quite nicely
Beautiful finish and purple is my favorite color. I didn’t see you use any grain filler on any part. You raised the grain on the front and dyed it. Did you sand it after using the acetone? If not, did the sanding sealer fill the grain? If so, how many coats? Also what kind of film did you cover the front with when you finished the back? Thank you!
I grainfilled the mahogany on the back, there is no need to grain fill maple. I raised the grain with water because it helps the alcohol dye penetrate the softer grains better. I only use sanding sealer on the top to help prevent colours running during the first couple of clear coats
@@ADFinlayson thank you. One more question. What grain filler do you use? I’ve used color tone ; not so successful on a stain job I did on mahogany.
@@jugheadjones5458 I make my own, if you search "how to make your own grainfiller" you will find one of my videos.
@@ADFinlayson I will do that. I’m always trying to learn. Thank you.
@@ADFinlayson I watched it and left a questions comment for you. Great video!
Nice job. I bought a kit and want to stain it but, its banded. Whats the best way to stain or paint a banded guitar.
If you mean it has binding, the principle is mostly the same, just scrape the binding back after with a razor to clean it up
Excellent work and stunning finish. Just when gluing the neck I would have have placed a block on the fretboard before clamping rather than clamp directly onto the frets themselves.
Why?
Absolutely love this guiitar, it is the exactly colour I'm hoping to achieve on my own build! Which dye are you using?
Angelus leather dye
Really nice guitar and color! May i ask how much you charge for a beauty like this?
Thank you mate, around $3500 shipped
@@ADFinlaysonnot that bad considering it all hand made 🙌🏻
What a great video.
Questions lol what clear did you use and how long did you leave before sanding back.
And what compound ?.
Sorry for all the questions.
Morrells lacquer, I left it about 3 weeks I think
Thats a nice purple!!! Why did you not not do the whole guitar purple? The brown/red clashes… not complimentary. Holy molly that quilted maple is something!!
It’s all subjective and the customer wanted a cherry back
巧夺天工真是人才。
Awesome. Which grits do you go through when level sanding the clear coat?
I like to say I start with 1200 on the top and 800 on the back. But that's on a good day, it really depends how well the paint goes on and how good the grain-fill went.
Great video, do you refinish guitars as commissions? Have a Gibson Explorer I'm thinking of getting refinished...
thank you mate, it depends! do you want to email details to ash@adfinlaysonguitars.co.uk
the fretboard looks cool i like the eye, where did you get it from?
I made it, the eye is the customers logo
@@ADFinlaysonwhat kind of clear coat do you use?
@@GyroJM it's cellulose from Morrells
What’s the name of the shade of purple stain you used? I’m about to use this video to help stain a guitar I made not to long ago and this color is the exact one I’ve been looking for
If you watch my latest video, it’s a more detailed guide with all the products and processes
Stunning work .Been a car painter 50 and that was great to watch .
Is it two pack clear you use ?
Thank you mate. I’m sure as a car painter you could give me a few tips. No it’s cellulose from Morrells. It’s my go to finish unless I want the paint to check, then I’ll use Dartfords nitrocellulose
@@ADFinlayson There are no durable NC clears and the thicker the coating the faster it fails.
What color of purple is that, and where can I buy it????? Plz answer!!!
Angelus dye
Great work.
Is he doing a mat finish
Sry I‘m a totally newie on that. What kind of dye is that? Oil dye, wood dye, water dye?
if you watch my latest video, I do another purple guitar with full commentary, all my products and techniques explained th-cam.com/video/HjO5n86wiI0/w-d-xo.html
I have an issue with some pre drill holes on a kit I got and I believe the spacing is for a 51.99mm but I can only find wrap around bridges that are 52.5mm. Can you help me
If the bridge doesn’t fit the holes, plug and redrill
After you put red stain down.do you have to use vinyl sealer before laqur?
No, lacquer straight on wood
@@ADFinlayson thanks I've never done this before
Bro!!! The clamp directly on the frets? Are you nuts?
Apparently
For the eye screw used to hang the guitar, do you get the same size as your button? Or do you go bigger/smaller?
The pilot hole I drill for the hook is 2mm for a 3mm hook screw, the strap button screw is the same size screw just longer