Great video on plough shears! Bought a 3 bottom plough , all seemed ok! But did crazy things , couldn’t get it working! Then you pointed out the sled runner! Yup! A real bad shed runner on all 3 - ground them away back from the edge , ground edge to nearly sharp - plough works great now! And this was hard clay ploughing! Thank you! Jas!
I got a 10” plow that doesn’t work well at all and think this helped me out more then anything I’ve found so far, no one has ever mentioned a sled runner that I’ve seen but now I am going to check mine.
Thank you for the plow video, you really motivate me! I'm from Libya, The agricultural soil in Libya is very hard, and the Plow Shares often break. The question is: what is the thickness of the metal used in manufacturing the Plow Shares? I'm thinking to make plow share by my self.
I have a 1956 2 bottom Farmall plow, the shares have been rebuilt and work great. There’s a steel piece on the bottom of the opposite side I think that’s called landside? That piece is getting worn down on the bottom to where the frame is exposed. Are they rebuildable as well? Do you have any tips to getting them set correctly?
Check out my other videos on landsides and coulters (where I also talk about landsides). Yes, depending on the plow bottom that you have, you might be able to buy them from the OEM yet or an aftermarket supplier. You can also fabricate them pretty easily. And, you can also just weld stuff on the landside to build it back up. Just depends on how pretty you want to make it. The biggest thing is renewing the landside somehow so that the plow pulls straight.
Very informative, thank you. Curious do you know the average Rockwell hardness of a common share? I read in the comments that you were thinking about trying a higher carbon content for your splice. Was thinking an AR-400 would work well. I also saw in another video you were using some Stoody 965G. Good choice.
AR400 looks like a good place to start. I don't know the Rockwell hardness of other shares, but good OEM shares and moldboards are HARD, compared to some aftermarket pieces that I can scratch with a putty knife.
Very good video thanks, I'm in the UK and have a JD no 4B plough with what I believe have GP blacksmith shares on which need attention where can I get those repaire points from please. Many thanks Dan.👍👍
Thanks Dan! When I see John Deere plows of that vintage in the UK they most often have the EP bottom, a slow turning bottom, the “best” North American type bottom you’ll find. It probably has a 372 or 347 share. I got my points from eBay a number of years ago. Without them you may have to get creative and cut a point off of something else. The problem with points and shares for newer plows is the cutting edge just isn’t sharp enough, it is quite blunt.
@@everythingmoldboardplows Thanks for your reply, I've just looked and they have BCA214A solid stamped in them, I'll get searching Ebay. Many thanks again keep up the good videos. 👍👍
@@danbullman349oh interesting. That is a much more common number. You might be able to find new shares. You probably have an NA stubble bottom or an NGP general purpose bottom.
@@everythingmoldboardplows t Thanks again I'll keep searching for some new shares I could also do with a couple of new moldboards as 1 has alot of wear at the shin and worn the bolt hole away.
John - I farm in Northern Illinois. Flat and black. Not many rocks. Found a Kverneland that would be a great fit. No auto resets. Are the shear pins going to drive me nuts? 6 bottom. The force to shear pin is greater than auto reset. Thanks for your expertise.
I think you'll be ok, but you know your ground better than me. Every time your chisel plow shank dances you have to ask yourself would the moldboard plow skim over that or would it trip the shear pin? And how often does that happen?
Great video. A real gem actually. I myself am a starting farmer somewhere in southern Europe and i really had issues with getting my plow to work. Did the plow shares like you in the video, only did i use elhard 600 electrodes for the cutting edge. Not to mention buying new plow shares for my 10inch plow would cost as the plow itself and they're usually made of mild steel. What do you think of hardox 500 laser cut plow shares? I could get my friend to make one for me, but using your video i already refurbished the one i have already and they're better than brand new!😅
Happy to hear the video was useful to you. Hardox 500 probably won't be as good as the forged and hardened, soft center shares from large manufacturers but it would definitely be better than mild steel. The challenge with making shares on a small-scale, I think, is getting that sharp cutting edge. It would take a bunch of grinding or milling. A real manufacturer would probably hot forge it to stamp it into shape and to create that long bevel down to the cutting edge.
This is it. I dreamed of writing a book for years and then stumbled on the ability to make videos. I think I can get the information out to a wider audience this way.
I appreciate this video I’ve got a plow that clamps to a 1.5in square toolbar for a cat 0 3point. I know very little about it was given to me with a 1970s speedex 1630 garden tractor that had sat for 15 years, after a little touch up with a grinder I got it to sink down and turn in my clay soil for my 1 acre garden. I know it’s pretty worn and I’ve been trying to see if there are any parts available for it but the only number I have been able to find is on the moldboard textrak-10 but this has not lead me to much useful information if you or any of your viewers could provide any more info or even a direction to start looking I would greatly appreciate it, if it would help I could share (only with channel permission) a handle to my social media where there are some videos and pictures of it from last year.
Looking for a replacement plow share like the second one you were discussing on the video. I’ve scoured the internet for this type and have come up empty. Anyway you could guide me to a dealer or store that sells this old type that I can purchase for replacement?
Have you tried E. Bearinger in Moorefield, Ontario or Ploworx of Salem, Ohio? It appears that they are out there but you would need to find a retailer for this wholesaler: cfsorder.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=CANADIANFARM%5FRD%5F163729656%5F26439057&itemtype=DUPS1&pageNbr=1&sortBy=itemNbr%5Fasc&view=list&itemNbr=ACE%2D8
I used mild steel but next time I should try something with higher carbon content. The mild steel will get beat up easily, but I can weld a bead of that hard surfacing wire on it to protect it and build it back up.
Yeah. The same procedure as welding on the share: preheat it a little bit and then allow it to cool slowly so that it doesn't crack. Use hard surfacing wire/rod also. Strategically placing your tack welds is important to keep the piece lined up correctly.
Good day from Ontario Yes we had narrow shares here IH 8. Cast shares also. I dont remember much about them We live in Mennonite country They used walking & horse ploughs, I guess IH. 8 Alot of ih shares were sold here. Neighbour started making them to make cheaper So of them started buying old allis plows & put moldboard on IH tractor ploughs The last I heard allis shares were over $40. We had bought ford 101 3 pt. Share then were 10-12/pc. So neighbours started using cockshutt moldboards which were same or close to oliver raydex. Boy interesting. Thanks What about no-till?? So what would that share u rebuilt cost new & rebuilt?
Just mild steel but next time I should try something with higher carbon content. The mild steel will get beat up easily, but I can weld a bead of that hard surfacing wire on it to protect it and build it back up.
Identifying what you’ve got for a plow bottom would be a first step. New shares are out there for blacksmith shares and throw-away lays for those old Deere plows.
Great video on plough shears! Bought a 3 bottom plough , all seemed ok! But did crazy things , couldn’t get it working! Then you pointed out the sled runner! Yup! A real bad shed runner on all 3 - ground them away back from the edge , ground edge to nearly sharp - plough works great now! And this was hard clay ploughing! Thank you! Jas!
Very cool! Glad it helped!
Thank you for these plow videos! I’m working on getting my 1962 Wheel Horse dialed in for a plow day next month!
You are welcome! Good luck with the plow!
@@everythingmoldboardplows I’ll be test and tuning until then!
I got a 10” plow that doesn’t work well at all and think this helped me out more then anything I’ve found so far, no one has ever mentioned a sled runner that I’ve seen but now I am going to check mine.
Glad it helped! The sled runner is a huge factor in getting the plow to suck down.
I like, pulled a plow all my life and I suspected, but never knew , I love it and live it !!!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
great information, very good explanation of repair and plow basics, thank you muchly
You are welcome!
Just a heads up: with your content I feel confident that I can upset your championship victories for the foreseeable future… 🥇🏆🏁
Good! I welcome the competition! I’m here to share knowledge; not hold back secrets.
Great video, very informative. My little genuine’s needs some rebuild for sure.
Thanks! I hope it helps!
Great video John very informative.
Thanks Richard!
nice job John
Thank you!
Thank you for the plow video, you really motivate me! I'm from Libya, The agricultural soil in Libya is very hard, and the Plow Shares often break. The question is: what is the thickness of the metal used in manufacturing the Plow Shares? I'm thinking to make plow share by my self.
Glad the video helped! Plow shares are typically 3/8 inch thick.
I have a 1956 2 bottom Farmall plow, the shares have been rebuilt and work great.
There’s a steel piece on the bottom of the opposite side I think that’s called landside?
That piece is getting worn down on the bottom to where the frame is exposed. Are they rebuildable as well?
Do you have any tips to getting them set correctly?
Check out my other videos on landsides and coulters (where I also talk about landsides). Yes, depending on the plow bottom that you have, you might be able to buy them from the OEM yet or an aftermarket supplier. You can also fabricate them pretty easily. And, you can also just weld stuff on the landside to build it back up. Just depends on how pretty you want to make it. The biggest thing is renewing the landside somehow so that the plow pulls straight.
Very informative, thank you.
Curious do you know the average Rockwell hardness of a common share?
I read in the comments that you were thinking about trying a higher carbon content for your splice. Was thinking an AR-400 would work well.
I also saw in another video you were using some Stoody 965G. Good choice.
AR400 looks like a good place to start. I don't know the Rockwell hardness of other shares, but good OEM shares and moldboards are HARD, compared to some aftermarket pieces that I can scratch with a putty knife.
Very good video thanks, I'm in the UK and have a JD no 4B plough with what I believe have GP blacksmith shares on which need attention where can I get those repaire points from please. Many thanks Dan.👍👍
Thanks Dan! When I see John Deere plows of that vintage in the UK they most often have the EP bottom, a slow turning bottom, the “best” North American type bottom you’ll find. It probably has a 372 or 347 share. I got my points from eBay a number of years ago. Without them you may have to get creative and cut a point off of something else. The problem with points and shares for newer plows is the cutting edge just isn’t sharp enough, it is quite blunt.
@@everythingmoldboardplows Thanks for your reply, I've just looked and they have BCA214A solid stamped in them, I'll get searching Ebay. Many thanks again keep up the good videos. 👍👍
@@danbullman349oh interesting. That is a much more common number. You might be able to find new shares. You probably have an NA stubble bottom or an NGP general purpose bottom.
@@everythingmoldboardplows t
Thanks again I'll keep searching for some new shares I could also do with a couple of new moldboards as 1 has alot of wear at the shin and worn the bolt hole away.
John - I farm in Northern Illinois. Flat and black. Not many rocks. Found a Kverneland that would be a great fit. No auto resets. Are the shear pins going to drive me nuts? 6 bottom. The force to shear pin is greater than auto reset. Thanks for your expertise.
I think you'll be ok, but you know your ground better than me. Every time your chisel plow shank dances you have to ask yourself would the moldboard plow skim over that or would it trip the shear pin? And how often does that happen?
Great video. A real gem actually. I myself am a starting farmer somewhere in southern Europe and i really had issues with getting my plow to work. Did the plow shares like you in the video, only did i use elhard 600 electrodes for the cutting edge. Not to mention buying new plow shares for my 10inch plow would cost as the plow itself and they're usually made of mild steel.
What do you think of hardox 500 laser cut plow shares? I could get my friend to make one for me, but using your video i already refurbished the one i have already and they're better than brand new!😅
Happy to hear the video was useful to you. Hardox 500 probably won't be as good as the forged and hardened, soft center shares from large manufacturers but it would definitely be better than mild steel. The challenge with making shares on a small-scale, I think, is getting that sharp cutting edge. It would take a bunch of grinding or milling. A real manufacturer would probably hot forge it to stamp it into shape and to create that long bevel down to the cutting edge.
When is your book going to be published?? I would like to learn more about this.
This is it. I dreamed of writing a book for years and then stumbled on the ability to make videos. I think I can get the information out to a wider audience this way.
I appreciate this video I’ve got a plow that clamps to a 1.5in square toolbar for a cat 0 3point. I know very little about it was given to me with a 1970s speedex 1630 garden tractor that had sat for 15 years, after a little touch up with a grinder I got it to sink down and turn in my clay soil for my 1 acre garden. I know it’s pretty worn and I’ve been trying to see if there are any parts available for it but the only number I have been able to find is on the moldboard textrak-10 but this has not lead me to much useful information if you or any of your viewers could provide any more info or even a direction to start looking I would greatly appreciate it, if it would help I could share (only with channel permission) a handle to my social media where there are some videos and pictures of it from last year.
I’m coming up empty. Hopefully someone can help you out! Go ahead and share a link to pictures of your plow.
Some great information thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Looking for a replacement plow share like the second one you were discussing on the video. I’ve scoured the internet for this type and have come up empty. Anyway you could guide me to a dealer or store that sells this old type that I can purchase for replacement?
Have you tried E. Bearinger in Moorefield, Ontario or Ploworx of Salem, Ohio? It appears that they are out there but you would need to find a retailer for this wholesaler: cfsorder.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=CANADIANFARM%5FRD%5F163729656%5F26439057&itemtype=DUPS1&pageNbr=1&sortBy=itemNbr%5Fasc&view=list&itemNbr=ACE%2D8
Did you use any special material for the strip on the cutting edge? Or is it just mild steel?
I used mild steel but next time I should try something with higher carbon content. The mild steel will get beat up easily, but I can weld a bead of that hard surfacing wire on it to protect it and build it back up.
Where do you find the replacement point pieces for different shares, that you welded on the share?
They were an ebay score a few years ago. A guy can stumble on them every once in a while.
Good information!
Thanks Dylan!
Make a video on how The trip lever works?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Any experience welding a broken moldboard?
Filler?
Yeah. The same procedure as welding on the share: preheat it a little bit and then allow it to cool slowly so that it doesn't crack. Use hard surfacing wire/rod also. Strategically placing your tack welds is important to keep the piece lined up correctly.
Good day from Ontario Yes we had narrow shares here IH 8. Cast shares also. I dont remember much about them
We live in Mennonite country They used walking & horse ploughs, I guess IH. 8 Alot of ih shares were sold here.
Neighbour started making them to make cheaper
So of them started buying old allis plows & put moldboard on IH tractor ploughs The last I heard allis shares were over $40.
We had bought ford 101 3 pt. Share then were 10-12/pc. So neighbours started using cockshutt moldboards which were same or close to oliver raydex.
Boy interesting. Thanks
What about no-till?? So what would that share u rebuilt cost new & rebuilt?
A few years ago NEW blacksmith shares were around $150 each. Rebuilt, I don't know. Depends on how you value your time.
You're one of the most common sense people I have never met 😂
Thanks!
What material is the bar stock made of
Just mild steel but next time I should try something with higher carbon content. The mild steel will get beat up easily, but I can weld a bead of that hard surfacing wire on it to protect it and build it back up.
Does anyone make these anymore for JD 44?
Identifying what you’ve got for a plow bottom would be a first step. New shares are out there for blacksmith shares and throw-away lays for those old Deere plows.
Since I'm no farmer I still have no idea what this is for or where goes, I skip through looking for pictures and found non nada.....
🤷🏼♂️
....wow....!!