Hey man I watch pretty much all your videos love the way you go about doing them I don't think I've commented yet but I've been subscribed for a while Keep up the good work anyways the reason for my comment I'm an over the road truck driver with over a million miles experience And my view on diesel additives Is there unnecessary if you're using a diesel with in its designed Parameters The only exception to that rule is anti gel diesel additive Which is more of a problem for truck drivers Because we could get diesel in Georgia and Be in New York with the same diesel And have it be 0ﾟ or less Most stations treat their diesel up North with an anti gel already The thing with diesels and most people Is diesels really function well working hard 99% of the time they really don't do well Long term not working hard And the new trend of Tuning them to race trucks Is well outside the parameters of what it's intended purpose was So failure is inevitable Anyways that's my 2 cents take it for what it's worth
We travel about 15,000 miles a year with our 7.3 pulling CGVW of 27,000 lbs and often do not have much choice when fueling our 53' long rig. I find that adding Lucas or Diesel Kleen just make the engine sound better. It seems to run quieter. Just my two cents worth.
I uploaded a video where i put 32 ounces of diesel additive in my 2001 Cadillac Deville. I filled it up with gas and I have gone 300 miles. The engine seem stronger and it got 23 mpg mix driving. Before it only got 18.5. I think I have come up with a new use for diesel additive.
Living up north where temps can hit -20 easy. You're foolish for not using an anti gel additive. It's literally the difference between sitting on the side of the road with your hazards on and getting where you need to go. Even with winter diesel
I live in Southern Ontario near Toronto. The owner's manual for my 1989 Jetta diesel recommended adding up to 20% regular gasoline to the fuel in winter to prevent gelling. A trucker called me on my CB when my engine was smoking due to oil pooling above the valves and suggested I add 1 litre of gasoline to reduce the exhaust smoke. I did and I saw way less smoke looking out my rear view mirror. The problem with adding gasoline to diesel fuel is that it has poor lubricant properties. I overcame that by adding 2-cycle oil, preferably synthetic, to the fuel in the recommended ratio and by limiting the gasoline to 2-3% high-test. The gasoline pre-ignites and sets off the diesel fuel giving better combustion thus giving more power, less smoke, better fuel economy and better winter starting. My mechanic retarded the timing slightly to allow for this. I started that car at -26 Degrees Celsius and it smoked for a second or two then burned smoke-free. The injector pump was rebuilt at 400,000 km. and the rebuilder commented that the injector pumps for my car usually were rebuilt at 250,000 km. I assume that the 2-cycle oil also lubes the injectors which results in better atomising of the fuel and better combustion. On a 600 km. drive on a hot day that car gave 62 miles per Imperial gallon which is about 51 Miles per US Gallon - better than a Smart car!
That's the old IDI engine. The new TDI engine would fall over and die if you did that. Most of the modern diesels can't take that any more. Just following the manufacturer's recommendations is better. The tech has improved immensely and the issues aren't anywhere near as bad as the "good old days".
That said, the big PITA issue up here (Toronto) is DEF. Stuff freezes and will give your diesel fits if it is badly placed (like in the 2014-15 RAM Ecodiesel). Stupid design and I can't think of an additive that will fix that.
I will say this! As a truck driver class 8! Class not no pickup truck lol I WAS told many years ago by a very fine Diesel mechanic to add Atf to the fuel every 4th fuel up and I have done that faithfully in all the Big rigs I have ever been in and the last Kenworth I had C-15 CAT! At 550g It went into the shop for an overhead and that Mechanic asked me wow!! What have you been doing to this truck? Because that motor still looked like new!! Inside and was in very fine shape! Not to mention every time I put a quart of ATF In the fuel I picked up 2lb more manifold pressure!! And I live in the west and it gets damn cold here in winter! And in the coldest months I blend #1 fuel with #2 and add I gallon of HOWES! Fuel treatment and I have never!! Been pulled home at -30+ Deg! So there is! Something to fuel Adetives! ;-)
Okay 9% of cp4 injector pumps in the United States fail because of the low sulfur and lubricity fuel... In the United Kingdom in Europe under 1% of cp4 injector pumps fell because of higher lubricity of the diesel fuel... So to each their own if you'd rather take a 9% chance compared to a 1% chance, don't use an additive.... As for me and my truck I'll use the additive I like the 1% better..
I was told by a GMC representative that Stanadyne helps reduce the gel temps and increase the cetane rating of the fuel. I have been putting it in GMC and Ford. Whether it improves anything I have not seen, but when the temps dip to -20F I prefer not to have gel'ed up diesel. I have operated my diesels down to -10F without gel issues.
I started using diesel kleen the gray bottle after I got water from bad fuel and had to get an injector replaced. I noticed that my injector rates were high +3.2 on one of the injectors after running diesel kleen the rate is now down to +1.5 area. I use 8oz every tank. In my opinion best product there is.
99 F250 7.3 180,000 MILES. No Issues. Howes Diesel Treatment delivers lubricity needed for the old beast.. Regular service, I can read the dip stick after 3000 miles (without wiping off the oil). No Catalytic, no DPF no predictable failure issues.. They don't build them this sensible anymore. Torque converter got noisy around 170,000 mi. drove one crazy, apparently they seldom let go. $1800 to fix it at a tranny shop. A Completely Re manufactured transmission from Ford 3 yr Unlimited mile warranty $2800 Canadian plus installation (not by ford), total $3300 plus tax.Runs better than new. Glad I did the research. Point is fuel lubricity, and cost to replace a Transmission in anything today is 10 / 16 grand. I'm old school and older by the minute.
I run additive in every tank. Not really sure if it gives any performance or MPG gains but I do it to help the water separator do its job and in the winter no gelling or freezing (if any water in fuel) of fuel lines. I have had to help people who don't run additive in the winter with equipment issues from fuel and cold weather and I have never had a cold weather related issue in any of my trucks or machines on jobsites.
When I bought my first new diesel (1984 GMC K2500HD W/6.2), I settled on (1.) Power Service in every tank of fuel, (2.) Never put the truck in gear until warmed up a little, (3.) Use the best oil I could afford, and (4.) Change the fuel filter at every oil change. I still have that truck and she runs like a top with 350,000 miles behind her. I also run a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a Mercedes 3.0 diesel motor and a 1-ton Duramax 4X4. They all get the same treatment.
I agree with you if you buy diesel from a bigger fuel station you have less chance of getting bad fuel. It's been a long time since I own a diesel pick up truck. I did every oil change changed the primary and secondary fuel filter. The newer diesel engines are a lot more advance in technology. They have high pressure rail syatems. Water and dirt are still the biggest killers.
You can take a look at your balance rates before and after you use lubricants or additives for lubricity. If you put anyting in your tank that adds lubricity your injection rates drop. Injection rates are like golf. You want to stay as close as you can to zero. Putting additives and can save your CP3 pump (injection pump) and or injectors. I have a diesel and I have many friends who are diesel mechanics. They all say the low sulfur diesel is hard on any moving part in the fuel system, so excuse me if I don't believe a word your friend who ran a fleet of diesel trucks says. Putting diesel additives in will not extend the overall lifespan of your truck, but it will save you money on a repair bill.
I took a class given by the large Ford dealer that we get our parts from. The instructor said he works for "Powerstroke" which is neither Ford nor Navastar. We were all bitching to him about the 6.0 engine. He said whoa. The 6.0 has problems yes but some of the problems were not it's fault. Right after it was designed and built the EPA changed the diesel formula. Manufacturers went crazy. (they lowered the sulfer content which took away lubricity) So the EPA told the oil refiners to go up on the cetane rating. Well they say they went up to 50-55 but you are lucky to get 40. He gets a sample at every fill and it comes back as low as 35. At the time we had some 6.0's and 4.5'sV6 (in Ford LCF). We shortened our oil drain to 5500mi. changed our fuel filters between 1 and 2 oil changes. And started using Motorcraft Cetane Booster. At my level I don't know any $$$$ savings but our tow company called me and asked me if we switched tow companies. So somebody noticed.
I think it was nuts that they tried to suck out all that heat from the EGR inside the block. The EGR carries sooo much heat. You are right they really failed trying to cool the EGR. The mere shape of the tubes in the cooler was a mistake as it added to the clogging problem.
@@highball7347 The EGR problem is the byproduct of when the engineer has never torn apart an engine in his life. If they had one 20+ year mechanic in the engineering room he would have called it out before the engineer even finalized the drawings.
I like Archoil and OptiLube. I’m after lubrication. Oil companies are supposed to ad lubricants back into the fuel since Govt mandates that sulfur be removed however many fuel samples show that this often does not happen or they do not put enough in. A few dollars here and there for quality additives is better than a few thousand dollars for a new fuel pump and set of injectors.
Important: The use of diesel fuel additives is not required or recommended for the 6.5L or the 6.6L Duramax® Diesel engine under normal conditions. The filtering system is designed to block water and contaminants without the use of additives. However, some customers may desire to use fuel additives to improve the characteristics of available diesel fuels. Water Emulsifiers and Demulsifiers If the customer desires to use a fuel additive, care must be taken in its selection. There are two common methods that fuel additives use to cope with water in the fuel. One method is through demulsification of water in the fuel. This method causes water particles to combine together to form larger particles, which drop out of suspension. This allows the fuel-filter/water-separator to separate the water from the fuel as it is designed to. The other method of coping with water in the fuel is through emulsification . This method, often using alcohol as the emulsifier, keeps water particles suspended in the fuel. Emulsification of water in the fuel can allow water to get past the fuel-filter/water-separator, in most cases causing damage to the fuel system. Only alcohol free water demulsifiers should be used in General Motors diesel engines. GM Diesel Fuel Conditioner®, P/N 88861009 (in Canada 88861038) or both *Racor Power Shot® and *Stanadyne® diesel fuel additives are alcohol free and utilize water demulsifiers to cope with water in the fuel. Other brands may be available in different areas; be sure that they clearly state that they are alcohol free demulsifiers before use.
I wanted to add that I do run additive. I never have before but with these new diesels that we have bought, that fuel pump really needs it. Optilube claims better mpg but I haven't seen it. I agree with you totally but this new fuel pump that your truck has and mine as well, I run it to help prevent its failure. If it fails, it will get to the fuel system and cost multiple thousands to repair. Also it helps with cleaner emissions which entails less frequent regens. That also means the dpf lasts longer. Before in the old days I believe additives were pointless but these new trucks really need it for the protection basis.
The process for removing the sulfur in Diesel fuel also removes much of the lubricity properties. Adding a quality fuel additive will return some and possibly much of that lubricity. I personally do not care about increasing Cetane or preventing gelling. It's all about lubricating the moving parts in my 7.3 fuel system. Will I ever know how well I did? Fine if I don't. I just don't want to know how bad I did by not adding lubrication. Your call.
I bought archoil from power stroke help and with only 1 ounce per fuel tank my fuel mileage went up by 2 miles per gallon. I live 30 minutes from his shop.
Disagree. Additives were necessary for the pre-2015 Powerstroke 6.7L. Problems with those were what some have called the "delicate" Bosch CP 4.2 fuel pump. Bosch designed the pump based on European diesel standards, which are made to a 460 wear scar rating. Unfortunately, the US only makes diesel to a wear scar rating of 520, which means it has only about 90% of the lubricity needed to lubricate the pump, as designed. And the fuel is the ONLY lubricant the pump gets. Mind you, Canadian customers do enjoy 460 wear scar rated diesel fuel there, so the US market is the sole trouble area. Ford did make changes through Bosch to the 2015 and newer CP 4.2 pump, but as a sign of it's dependability issues, GM went away from the CP 4.2 pump in their latest version of the Duramax engines. Need some help here, as I once knew what GM changed to, but have since forgotten the brand name of the fuel pump.
You might want to rethink the title of this video cause in cold climate areas like Canada and Alaska vehicles do still gel the fuel lines even with the gas stations adding additives at -40 F the fuels from regular mid grade premium and diesel gel up so people are adding seafoam to there tanks and oil to make sure that the vehicles start
I use power service diesel kleen in my 04 Duramax and the engine is noticably more quiet. As previously mentioned it does nothing for fuel mileage but the way I understand it, it protects the pump and injectors from premature wear from lack of lubrication that you get with ulsd diesel I am currently sitting at just over 100,000 mi, which is generally the injector failure point and so far no issues using diesel kleen every tank!
@@genek121973 I have 268k on my 05 LLY, installed a Fass fuel lift pump which is a huge help, still have original injectors but had to replace the CP3 twice, I use Hot shot and other ones that I find on sale, in the Atl area.
I have noticed a mpg gain with archoil fuel additive. The biggest difference was adding archoil friction modifier in the oil. Live in Minnesota and haven't plugged it in yet.
There is one diesel fuel additive that works. It needs a ratio of only 100:1 This product is so rare that it is only available in Amazonian countries. The brand name varies so look for the composition. SNAKE OIL
P.S. their is junk in every tank at the tank farm / loading facility their can be feet of stuff on the bottom sand water slude etc.and it gets delivered everywhere I'd rather buy diesel that sat than been stirred up if it sat fine depends more on if they maintain pumps meaning filters.
That is what I understand as well. My ex's dad was a mechanic. He advised I use the grey bottle of diesel kleen. My truck is an 04. He claimed the ultra low sulfur lacks lubricant that the older diesels require for their injectors.
Bio Diesel, 2%, 5, 10 or 20%. MN. is going to 20% next summer. 10 % now, 5% over winter. That stuff is soybean oil, is good lubrication. Diesel Kleen doesn't work for the winter, anti gelling, i tried it, in my 2011 F350. I was using 50/50 no.1 & no. 2 for the winter, but ran out of it at the Farm tank, so i had some in another 500 gallon tank, summer fuel, so i seen this stuff advertised. Added it like they said, but it got down below 0 one night. Low fuel pressure came on the pickup. Then i added another jug, for below 0 , power reduced was the next message on the pickup. I got home, another trucker was right behind me with a load of feeder calves. He had the 911 product in the red jug, he gave me some, it worked. So this product is not a lubricant, bio diesel is. This product is suppose to raise your cetain rating, but i was already use premium diesel fuel I never have used these diesel fuel additives, have 3 diesel farm tractors too, all work great, no fuel problems.
@Klug Farms Klug, the silver bottle will not help with fuel gelling, it does include diesel slick lubricator and is certified for use in my Cummins. I live in southern NM so gelling typically isn't an issue. Power Service also sales a white bottle that prevents fuel gelling. I did have an issue hunting up north and used this. It worked (slowly) to get the fuel back to normal.
The White bottle was suppose to take care of gelling. I bought it at a Parts store, i called them back & the older guy said, that't all this crushed rock company uses all winter, the one gallon for 250 gallons. So i read the fine print, below 0, so i added another gallon, it didn't work. So if this product doesn't work, you can assume the others don't either. I have a pump / old fuel pump at the Stations, that has a sight glass with a spinner inside. The bio diesel fat had settled out, when that cold, in this sight glass. It doesn't work. But the 911 did, & i didn't change filters after this either. You going to make some thing, it better work as you say, specially when you out on the highway at below -0 temps, life or death there.....................
I’d like to agree with some of the other posters about the switch to ULSD in 2008. Trucks built before that year can benefit from fuel additives. While there isn’t an additive that contains sulfur that I’m aware of, some improve lubricity with oils or other chemicals and improve cetane which can sometime make a noticeable improvement especially if you have been running low cetane fuel. I have a 2006 Powerstroke (6.0) and feel like the Motorcraft PM22 fuel additive makes an improvement in idle quality and power and hope it improves longevity. I generally don’t use oil or fuel additives in my other vehicles and don’t believe in the “mechanic in a can” products lining the shelves of my local auto parts store but I do feel like this is an exception.
Mark Duncan totally agree the older motors need the lubrication this new diesel formula just doesn’t have. Probably why I’m still in the habit of adding fuel additives to my 6.7 because they use them in my 7.3
Hi, additives. 2019 Ram 3500 6.7 HO 1. FASS fuel filters. Also drastically reduces if not eliminates air in the fuel. 2. Formula 3 (Lubrication Specialists) extreme pressure oil additive. Made my diesel almost sound like a gas motor. 3. TK-7 704 diesel fuel additive. Runs better; period. Check these products out. Any questions, respond. Benton
Great, thanks. Where I live I can wake up to minus 20 degree weather. The only reason I use additives is for Anti Gel purposes. Yeah, no palm trees around here.
I was told one time many years ago about performance additives, "If they improved anything (horsepower, mpg, etc) then the oil companies would be adding it themselves and make the claim that their fuel was better." That's just for performance additives. Other additives might do other things and might do them well but you do not need them in the fuel all the time.
I drive my 2013 Jetta until the low fuel light comes on .Then I fill up at the same BP station.It is a very busy one and some times they run out.So I know it's always fresh .I also get a oil change every 10'000 Miles and change the fuel filter too..So far no problems .Always cranks right up and runs great .
My Tdi is always filled with love's diesel with a little howe's diesel treatment before filling up, with regular use of diesel purge for my injector and pumps. Does it work? Maybe, maybe not. More than likely a placebo affect but it reinforces my habit for meticulous maintenance habits and it makes me feel satisfied.
It’s good to run products like Diesel Kleen for the simple fact that it helps lubricates injectors and the fuel system. It’s because of the low lubricating problems of ultra low sulfur diesel
The ford cetane booster gives me a little extra power I believe. It’s about $10 for a bottle that treats $125. My truck idles at 62 dbs inside the truck with this additive. Also I run 5w40 ford synthetic. Good video thank you for taking the time to post.
I can verify that on old, light duty all mechanical diesels and additive can make a difference. My 12v Cummins would have a very light haze on take off after idling with no additive, using an additive eliminated that haze entirely. As for performance, I’ll really never know. Also a Winter additive does help the old mechanical ones when it’s down to 0 all the time.
There are about 5 companies that make additives for diesels that freeze in the winter. All of which are the best on the market because they don’t have alcohol in them. Alcohol and water the two things you don’t want in a Diesel engine. Alcohol is present in a large portion of diesel additives. Local diesel mechanic done a bunch of test and found that about 5 diesel additives work the others are actually harder on the engine.
I have found that they really aren't needed IF you run your truck like it was designed. Now i have found as you get into the higher milage some products can help with aging parts and stuff. But like anything being well looked after and maintained will always be the best guarantee to long life..
Wow first time I have to say, "I think you are wrong". I use the additive for anti-gel and clean the injectors. Last winter it was 2 degrees at 4 pm. I didn't put enough in and it took over a hour to start it. So won't make than mistake again. Also carry the red bottle just in case.
On a commercial scale its cheaper to fix broken trucks than pay people to fill them with additives "just in case". My fuel level sensor was gummed up and i was quoted $500 to fix it. I used a fuel additive and it fixed the problem. I saved $480. Paying a commercial HD mechanic to diagnose a gummed up fuel sensor probably costs the same as it would to get him to put a new sensor in.
I'm a huge fan of Fuel Injector Cleaner & adding Cetane. It helps my 7.3 IDI run smother. I've had no issues purchasing my fuel from low volume at about $.25 less per gallon but, I stopped doing so do to repetitively seeing large contaminants in my fuel can after my pre-screening. I don't use additive every fill up because, I don't carry it with me all of the time.
I live in British Columbia, Canada, where it can get to -40C. We regularly get -25 - 30C. Well maintained diesel engines do not need any fuel additives of any kind here. This is a myth. Yes, some folks do use additives, but most of us don't and manage just find. Maybe we have better diesel fuels here? Change your filters (water is your enemy), use a block heater when necessary and park in a sheltered area when possible. It's no big deal, folks!
If you don't use anti gel additive in your diesel during the winter here in upstate NY, then your diesel will gel and you will be dead in the water. And as far as diesel additives there are a ton, but I add 10oz of Sea foam every time I fill my truck up with diesel. Most but not all additives are made to just keep your diesel running at it's full potential, not give you a boost of power, and also helping your injectors from soot build-up, nothing else other than that really. I would rather take my chances using treatment additives that help remove any water, and that help keep my injectors clean. Not saying your wrong, just my thought.
I use Stanadyne at every fill up in my dmax. I fill up at Walmart mostly because they have a lot of customers but also because it’s significantly less expensive - Shell wants like 30 cents more per gallon (credit card) - no way I’m paying that when Walmart seems fine to me. Dmax runs like a champ.
Wally World diesel seems to me a great place yo buy. Not because it is cheaper, but because it is cheaper = more customers, more customers = fast diesel turnover in the tanks /fresher fuel. I also heard that Costco is one of few vendors in the US that dispenses top tier diesel.
you have missed mentioning one of the main reasons a person might add an additive... and that is anti-gelling of the fuel. This is the only reason I use it as I have had my fuel gel and it is no fun.
I'm a firm believer in a additive to replace the lubricity in the fuel. I use Diesel Kleen much of the year and Switch to Power Service in the winter (live in north Idaho). Injector tips still rely on the fuel to lubricate them. I don't know that performance is enhanced because I won't fill up without it. At $3500 for 8 new injectors last year I'm not taking any chances with my truck.
I run diesel kleen. Is it the best? Probably not. But, wallyworld carries it and i know for sure it bumps the mpg's up in my 6.0. Now on my 6.7 time will tell as I've only put 2k miles on it. I will also add, without an occasional additive in your tank algae can build up. Don't believe me? Google it. I've seen it first hand expecially in higher temp environments. Lastly, i was a fleet mechanic for 15 yrs on all makes and models as well as on heavy equipment agricultural /construction. Love the vids. Nice work!
Unless you live in cold climates you need that antigel was in Chicago like minus 10 truck woulnt start they had to pull truck in shop and put heaters on it. Learned about gelled fuel
Perhaps when the vehicle is very old/ many many miles, that's when the additive truly helps? I've seen seafoam not do squat on a 150k mile diesel, mine. But. I have seen it on older and higher mileage gas/diesels do wonders.
For the most part (but not always),mechanics, fleet managers, and service technicians are not taught about motor oil. Now-a-days they're specialists in a particular area, motor, suspension, transmission etc. That's the reason you're getting varying opinions on additives, oil, and service intervals etc. What I would do in your position, change your oil and transmission fluid over to Amsoil. You'll be amazed at the savings, less time in the shop, and more hauling power.
I had a diesel Olds once and never had a problem with cold temps. A friend of mine had a diesel pickup and said he was told by a diesel mechanic to add 1 gallon of unleaded gas to a full tank of diesel and he would be okay for cold temperatures. I don't know if that would really work.
MHammer I am surprised you did not have injector pump problems. The Oldsmobile diesel was equipped with a temperamental injector pump especially the governor retainer ring.
I agree that fresh fuel and scheduled maintenance a stock vehicle will run as advertised. My 2017 Ram 2500 C sends me a monthly report and it's system analysis it may turn out to be a gimmick or would it send a message to the EPA if I did a DEF and EGR delete? Not that I would do that. Sometimes systems fail and that is to be expected but when folks start experimenting with the engine and it's management system the factory warranty for what it is worth is voided because sometimes maybe the experiment turns out wonderful and all the advertised gains are produced and other times it turns into a magnificent fail and dude bricked his truck. I stick to my daily driver stock and if I want to hotrod a Bro truck I would go and get something that doesn't require emission compliance because a hotrod is meant to be run on the edge in some sticky mud.
Certain Fuel additives like Stanadyne are crucial for longevity of the older diesel injection pumps and injectors it might not do as much for newer designs but for older engines that were designed to run on the higher sulfer fuel which epa regulations forced out of the fuel for emissions purposes it is a must to add them back. Try not running any additives in something like my 95 Gmc with the 6.5l Detroit see how many pumps last.
I know my truck will never get the mpg as a car otherwise I would have got a car but I’m curious if these additives will help to reduce the carbon buildup in my EGR cooler and other components.
I know I’m late to this discussion but Ai have to say all diesels will ultimately have an issue with sticktion and DPF soot build up. Please check out Arch Oil. Extremely tested and proven to help with both of these issues.
Diesel quality here in PR today isn't the same as the states, here it lacks on lubricity hense more breakdowns in the shop, if we had better diesel fuel we won't use ads or the good old tactics to keep these engines running great.
What about people that don’t drive their trucks daily? For those of us that have a commuter vehicle and a truck for when it’s needed, wouldn’t a fuel stabilizer be a good idea?
I CONCUR COMPLETELY..... In these newer engines, { STAGE 3 / 4 } they are designed (OR SUPPOSEDLY) to run on these newer fuels, ONLY those older diesel motors really need that (OILIER) based fuel for longer (NORMAL) life. In my lifetime I have experiences in working with, on, and inside diesel engines for 50 years..... These new EPA [clean air} engines run so hot, they are becoming a completely reborn world of their own !!!!! ?????? BEST hint ---- "IF YOU ARE GOING TO RUN DIESEL POWER IN COLD COUNTRY / PURCHASE ALL THE COLD WEATHER OPERATING OPTIONS AVAILABLE FROM MANUFACTURER" (They have [hopefully] researched and developed a product to run WITHOUT the NEED for additives. ?????? !!!!!
Not an additive kind of guy. However... Have a 7.3. cold start was getting worse and worse. Tried the Hot Shot stuff. Don't know what it did but it did the trick. I'm still gonna say most additive stuff is just snake oil but...
My suggestion as a retired mechanic is to change your fuel filter with ever oil change on your diesel truck to help prevent some of the problems these additives claim to fix.
Additives add critical lubrication that is no longer in diesel fuel. The fuel filter only removes contamination. Mechanical injectors absolutely need additional lubrication.
Question for you guys. I agree with buying fuel from stations that turn their fuel supply over frequently. I have a 2015 F250 I use to tow a camper. It sees limited driving otherwise. I have a 50 Gallon Titan tank. A tank of fuel may last me a couple of months when I’m not towing. Should I use Stabil for diesel?
Ok, now, you understand that what you said in this video, reflects opinions of different people and nothing based on engineering research. I started my automotive life with graduating a automecanical school, being a mecanic, a master mecanic and because I loved my profession, I graduated from a university as an engineer in automotive and combustion engines. I would say that with the abundance of additives we have on the market, NOBODY knows the real purpose of it. Everybody knows best, everyone has the best additive, and pretty much, none does the job wel. First of all, as a professional the only additive for engine oil and for fuel and I am refering for diesel engines, it is the ones which are based on MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE. Also the additives based on MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE can be used in gas engine oil, but not into the gasoline. Other then that everything I will declared it SNAKE OIL This additive has been used on engines oil and diesel fuel since 40's and was Romel's secret of having good engines in the harshest environment of the desert.
eag 8999 study don't do any justice I could do a study on anything and come to a conclusion that agrees with whoever paying me. Bio holds water. Water is really bad for diesel motor. Don't believe me have found algae growing in bio tanks and also have seen it in fuel filters. Algae need water to grow. Looks red or a dark color solid plant like substance. That simple my truck I run straight diesel and get almost 19 to 20mpg . I ran that bio 20% once 17mpg and truck regen 4 times on one tank. Only regen once on straight diesel
eag 8999 bio is not a additive as you think it may be it is a filler so these truck stops can sell fuel at the same price but get it for way less. Bio is cheaper. It like ethanol in gas now. Cheaper to get but can do more damage then what it worth.
Diesel pickup trucks, meaning 2500 or 3500, are considered heavy duty. 1500s are the light duty trucks. Im sorry but you seem to be mistaken about that
I owned 2 diesels over the past 10 years. I can tell you from experience that a quality additive will help in three different ways. First, it will improve fuel mileage to a degree. Second, it will definitively improve towing performance and thirdly by increasing the cetane rating, it will help to keep the dpf filter cleaner.
I added a question to you discussion form but I guess you don't answer on there. I am looking a getting a new truck and cant decide between a 350 or 450. I will be bumper pulling a 40 foot boat that loaded is about 16,000 to 17,-000 pounds. Any thoughts in which truck and any options you feel I need to make sure I add to it
some of the products work and matter but in not normal conditions like really cold or hot or if you know your going to be working the engine hard, if u using them just for driving truck around normally you wasting money
Off topic question: Should I perhaps blue Locktite my tonneau cover bolts? The hardware already loosened up on several of the clamps and need to be reinstalled after just 2K miles.
No offense, but that was clear like mud. I will say that modern, low sulfur diesel lacks adequate lubricity for modern injectors. There are exceptions to this rule. That being1. high sulfur diesel found overseas or in some offered commercial applications, 2. expensive diesel where additives have been added for you, and 3. biodiesel which just naturally has very high lubricity (and detergent properties). Lubricity problems in diesel won't rear it's ugly head on new vehicles that still have the prettiness coating intact on the injectors nozzles. On older or higher mileage vehicles, a good additive will yield noticeable results. The other thing that additives effect are cetane. If you shop at discount diesel places, the cetane rating is lower than optimal. A good additive will remedy this. So if you've got a new low mileage truck, and you use good (expensive) diesel, additives are worthless. If you have an older truck or a high mileage truck, and or you use the discount fuel, there are gains to be had by using additives. Weather or not it's worth the cost savings is up to you. I have measurable gains with Diesel Kleen Power Service, using cheap diesel in my 03 6.0. It idles smoother, starts better, and gets 1.5 mpg better fuel economy. I could get good fuel instead but it's a 45 minute drive.
Hey man I watch pretty much all your videos love the way you go about doing them I don't think I've commented yet but I've been subscribed for a while Keep up the good work anyways the reason for my comment I'm an over the road truck driver with over a million miles experience And my view on diesel additives Is there unnecessary if you're using a diesel with in its designed Parameters The only exception to that rule is anti gel diesel additive Which is more of a problem for truck drivers Because we could get diesel in Georgia and Be in New York with the same diesel And have it be 0ﾟ or less Most stations treat their diesel up North with an anti gel already The thing with diesels and most people Is diesels really function well working hard 99% of the time they really don't do well Long term not working hard And the new trend of Tuning them to race trucks Is well outside the parameters of what it's intended purpose was So failure is inevitable Anyways that's my 2 cents take it for what it's worth
Lubricants in diesel fuel has been significantly reduced since 2005...its not a bad idea to put it back in.
We travel about 15,000 miles a year with our 7.3 pulling CGVW of 27,000 lbs and often do not have much choice when fueling our 53' long rig. I find that adding Lucas or Diesel Kleen just make the engine sound better. It seems to run quieter. Just my two cents worth.
Diesel additives add lubrication for ultra low suful diesel
srad98ful That's why I use it in my old truck but I doubt it makes any difference in newer ones.
sonictech1000
It does help. Lubricant is a must for injectors and pumps. Certain Duramax models have very expensive injectors! $8000 for a set.
Steven Phillips I concur!
@@sonictech1000 Uneducated response!
Where is the proof?? You can't believe the additive manufacture.
I uploaded a video where i put 32 ounces of diesel additive in my 2001 Cadillac Deville. I filled it up with gas and I have gone 300 miles. The engine seem stronger and it got 23 mpg mix driving. Before it only got 18.5. I think I have come up with a new use for diesel additive.
blackericdenice whatgave you this idea for the Cadillac?
Living up north where temps can hit -20 easy. You're foolish for not using an anti gel additive. It's literally the difference between sitting on the side of the road with your hazards on and getting where you need to go. Even with winter diesel
Agree. Suprised he didnt mention this in the video
Ben Kempa he does live in a pretty mild climate so that might be why he didn't think of it.
I live in Southern Ontario near Toronto. The owner's manual for my 1989 Jetta diesel recommended adding up to 20% regular gasoline to the fuel in winter to prevent gelling. A trucker called me on my CB when my engine was smoking due to oil pooling above the valves and suggested I add 1 litre of gasoline to reduce the exhaust smoke. I did and I saw way less smoke looking out my rear view mirror. The problem with adding gasoline to diesel fuel is that it has poor lubricant properties. I overcame that by adding 2-cycle oil, preferably synthetic, to the fuel in the recommended ratio and by limiting the gasoline to 2-3% high-test. The gasoline pre-ignites and sets off the diesel fuel giving better combustion thus giving more power, less smoke, better fuel economy and better winter starting. My mechanic retarded the timing slightly to allow for this. I started that car at -26 Degrees Celsius and it smoked for a second or two then burned smoke-free. The injector pump was rebuilt at 400,000 km. and the rebuilder commented that the injector pumps for my car usually were rebuilt at 250,000 km. I assume that the 2-cycle oil also lubes the injectors which results in better atomising of the fuel and better combustion. On a 600 km. drive on a hot day that car gave 62 miles per Imperial gallon which is about 51 Miles per US Gallon - better than a Smart car!
That's the old IDI engine. The new TDI engine would fall over and die if you did that. Most of the modern diesels can't take that any more. Just following the manufacturer's recommendations is better. The tech has improved immensely and the issues aren't anywhere near as bad as the "good old days".
That said, the big PITA issue up here (Toronto) is DEF. Stuff freezes and will give your diesel fits if it is badly placed (like in the 2014-15 RAM Ecodiesel). Stupid design and I can't think of an additive that will fix that.
I will say this! As a truck driver class 8! Class not no pickup truck lol I WAS told many years ago by a very fine Diesel mechanic to add Atf to the fuel every 4th fuel up and I have done that faithfully in all the Big rigs I have ever been in and the last Kenworth I had C-15 CAT! At 550g It went into the shop for an overhead and that Mechanic asked me wow!! What have you been doing to this truck? Because that motor still looked like new!! Inside and was in very fine shape! Not to mention every time I put a quart of ATF In the fuel I picked up 2lb more manifold pressure!! And I live in the west and it gets damn cold here in winter! And in the coldest months I blend #1 fuel with #2 and add I gallon of HOWES! Fuel treatment and I have never!! Been pulled home at -30+ Deg! So there is! Something to fuel Adetives! ;-)
CAT DIESEL POWER ATF has a lot of detergent in it, probably why the engine was so clean.
You are 100 percent correct
I've heard of the atf deal going to give it a shot 👍
Okay 9% of cp4 injector pumps in the United States fail because of the low sulfur and lubricity fuel... In the United Kingdom in Europe under 1% of cp4 injector pumps fell because of higher lubricity of the diesel fuel... So to each their own if you'd rather take a 9% chance compared to a 1% chance, don't use an additive.... As for me and my truck I'll use the additive I like the 1% better..
Number of McDonald's restaurants spotted = 2. At about 2:00 and 4:20.
I saw that two
I was told by a GMC representative that Stanadyne helps reduce the gel temps and increase the cetane rating of the fuel. I have been putting it in GMC and Ford. Whether it improves anything I have not seen, but when the temps dip to -20F I prefer not to have gel'ed up diesel. I have operated my diesels down to -10F without gel issues.
I started using diesel kleen the gray bottle after I got water from bad fuel and had to get an injector replaced. I noticed that my injector rates were high +3.2 on one of the injectors after running diesel kleen the rate is now down to +1.5 area. I use 8oz every tank. In my opinion best product there is.
99 F250 7.3 180,000 MILES. No Issues. Howes Diesel Treatment delivers lubricity needed for the old beast.. Regular service, I can read the dip stick after 3000 miles (without wiping off the oil). No Catalytic, no DPF no predictable failure issues.. They don't build them this sensible anymore. Torque converter got noisy around 170,000 mi. drove one crazy, apparently they seldom let go. $1800 to fix it at a tranny shop. A Completely Re manufactured transmission from Ford 3 yr Unlimited mile warranty $2800 Canadian plus installation (not by ford), total $3300 plus tax.Runs better than new. Glad I did the research. Point is fuel lubricity, and cost to replace a Transmission in anything today is 10 / 16 grand. I'm old school and older by the minute.
I run additive in every tank. Not really sure if it gives any performance or MPG gains but I do it to help the water separator do its job and in the winter no gelling or freezing (if any water in fuel) of fuel lines. I have had to help people who don't run additive in the winter with equipment issues from fuel and cold weather and I have never had a cold weather related issue in any of my trucks or machines on jobsites.
When I bought my first new diesel (1984 GMC K2500HD W/6.2), I settled on (1.) Power Service in every tank of fuel, (2.) Never put the truck in gear until warmed up a little, (3.) Use the best oil I could afford, and (4.) Change the fuel filter at every oil change. I still have that truck and she runs like a top with 350,000 miles behind her. I also run a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a Mercedes 3.0 diesel motor and a 1-ton Duramax 4X4. They all get the same treatment.
I agree with you if you buy diesel from a bigger fuel station you have less chance of getting bad fuel. It's been a long time since I own a diesel pick up truck. I did every oil change changed the primary and secondary fuel filter. The newer diesel engines are a lot more advance in technology. They have high pressure rail syatems. Water and dirt are still the biggest killers.
You can take a look at your balance rates before and after you use lubricants or additives for lubricity. If you put anyting in your tank that adds lubricity your injection rates drop. Injection rates are like golf. You want to stay as close as you can to zero. Putting additives and can save your CP3 pump (injection pump) and or injectors. I have a diesel and I have many friends who are diesel mechanics. They all say the low sulfur diesel is hard on any moving part in the fuel system, so excuse me if I don't believe a word your friend who ran a fleet of diesel trucks says. Putting diesel additives in will not extend the overall lifespan of your truck, but it will save you money on a repair bill.
This is incorrect for all duramax prior to L5P. Since they do not have a lift pump. You need a additive that has a lubricant.
I'll keep running my Stanadyne lubricity formula, you do what makes you feel good in your truck.
I took a class given by the large Ford dealer that we get our parts from. The instructor said he works for "Powerstroke" which is neither Ford nor Navastar. We were all bitching to him about the 6.0 engine. He said whoa. The 6.0 has problems yes but some of the problems were not it's fault. Right after it was designed and built the EPA changed the diesel formula. Manufacturers went crazy. (they lowered the sulfer content which took away lubricity) So the EPA told the oil refiners to go up on the cetane rating. Well they say they went up to 50-55 but you are lucky to get 40. He gets a sample at every fill and it comes back as low as 35. At the time we had some 6.0's and 4.5'sV6 (in Ford LCF). We shortened our oil drain to 5500mi. changed our fuel filters between 1 and 2 oil changes. And started using Motorcraft Cetane Booster. At my level I don't know any $$$$ savings but our tow company called me and asked me if we switched tow companies. So somebody noticed.
I think it was nuts that they tried to suck out all that heat from the EGR inside the block. The EGR carries sooo much heat. You are right they really failed trying to cool the EGR. The mere shape of the tubes in the cooler was a mistake as it added to the clogging problem.
@@highball7347 The EGR problem is the byproduct of when the engineer has never torn apart an engine in his life. If they had one 20+ year mechanic in the engineering room he would have called it out before the engineer even finalized the drawings.
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My 6.0 has 465,000 miles on it and still climbing. I like it.
I like Archoil and OptiLube. I’m after lubrication. Oil companies are supposed to ad lubricants back into the fuel since Govt mandates that sulfur be removed however many fuel samples show that this often does not happen or they do not put enough in. A few dollars here and there for quality additives is better than a few thousand dollars for a new fuel pump and set of injectors.
Important:
The use of diesel fuel additives is not required or recommended for the 6.5L or the 6.6L Duramax® Diesel engine under normal conditions. The filtering system is designed to block water and contaminants without the use of additives. However, some customers may desire to use fuel additives to improve the characteristics of available diesel fuels.
Water Emulsifiers and Demulsifiers
If the customer desires to use a fuel additive, care must be taken in its selection. There are two common methods that fuel additives use to cope with water in the fuel. One method is through demulsification of water in the fuel. This method causes water particles to combine together to form larger particles, which drop out of suspension. This allows the fuel-filter/water-separator to separate the water from the fuel as it is designed to. The other method of coping with water in the fuel is through emulsification . This method, often using alcohol as the emulsifier, keeps water particles suspended in the fuel. Emulsification of water in the fuel can allow water to get past the fuel-filter/water-separator, in most cases causing damage to the fuel system. Only alcohol free water demulsifiers should be used in General Motors diesel engines. GM Diesel Fuel Conditioner®, P/N 88861009 (in Canada 88861038) or both *Racor Power Shot® and *Stanadyne® diesel fuel additives are alcohol free and utilize water demulsifiers to cope with water in the fuel. Other brands may be available in different areas; be sure that they clearly state that they are alcohol free demulsifiers before use.
I wanted to add that I do run additive. I never have before but with these new diesels that we have bought, that fuel pump really needs it. Optilube claims better mpg but I haven't seen it. I agree with you totally but this new fuel pump that your truck has and mine as well, I run it to help prevent its failure. If it fails, it will get to the fuel system and cost multiple thousands to repair. Also it helps with cleaner emissions which entails less frequent regens. That also means the dpf lasts longer. Before in the old days I believe additives were pointless but these new trucks really need it for the protection basis.
The process for removing the sulfur in Diesel fuel also removes much of the lubricity properties. Adding a quality fuel additive will return some and possibly much of that lubricity. I personally do not care about increasing Cetane or preventing gelling. It's all about lubricating the moving parts in my 7.3 fuel system. Will I ever know how well I did? Fine if I don't. I just don't want to know how bad I did by not adding lubrication. Your call.
I bought archoil from power stroke help and with only 1 ounce per fuel tank my fuel mileage went up by 2 miles per gallon. I live 30 minutes from his shop.
Just clarifying what you typed, but only 1 oz per tank and it gained 2 mpg? That seems a bit inflated.
Disagree. Additives were necessary for the pre-2015 Powerstroke 6.7L. Problems with those were what some have called the "delicate" Bosch CP 4.2 fuel pump. Bosch designed the pump based on European diesel standards, which are made to a 460 wear scar rating. Unfortunately, the US only makes diesel to a wear scar rating of 520, which means it has only about 90% of the lubricity needed to lubricate the pump, as designed. And the fuel is the ONLY lubricant the pump gets. Mind you, Canadian customers do enjoy 460 wear scar rated diesel fuel there, so the US market is the sole trouble area. Ford did make changes through Bosch to the 2015 and newer CP 4.2 pump, but as a sign of it's dependability issues, GM went away from the CP 4.2 pump in their latest version of the Duramax engines. Need some help here, as I once knew what GM changed to, but have since forgotten the brand name of the fuel pump.
I had a F250 diesel in 1987- I never heard of diesel exhaust fluid. My truck only had one fuel port.
Welcome to the future.
You might want to rethink the title of this video cause in cold climate areas like Canada and Alaska vehicles do still gel the fuel lines even with the gas stations adding additives at -40 F the fuels from regular mid grade premium and diesel gel up so people are adding seafoam to there tanks and oil to make sure that the vehicles start
I use power service diesel kleen in my 04 Duramax and the engine is noticably more quiet. As previously mentioned it does nothing for fuel mileage but the way I understand it, it protects the pump and injectors from premature wear from lack of lubrication that you get with ulsd diesel I am currently sitting at just over 100,000 mi, which is generally the injector failure point and so far no issues using diesel kleen every tank!
Joseph Fenton I have over 500k on my 11' Duramax. I run Stanadyne lubricity formula in every other tank. Still on my original injectors amd CP4.
Gene Fugatt , do you run any additives in the fuel between the lubricity formula tanks?
@@genek121973 I have 268k on my 05 LLY, installed a Fass fuel lift pump which is a huge help, still have original injectors but had to replace the CP3 twice, I use Hot shot and other ones that I find on sale, in the Atl area.
I have noticed a mpg gain with archoil fuel additive. The biggest difference was adding archoil friction modifier in the oil. Live in Minnesota and haven't plugged it in yet.
Exactly right and that goes with anything perishable really. The busier grocery stores generally have fresher products.
There is one diesel fuel additive that works.
It needs a ratio of only 100:1
This product is so rare that it is only available in Amazonian countries.
The brand name varies so look for the composition. SNAKE OIL
Lucas fuel stabilizer the best thing since slice bread , for use in gas or Diesel engines , its a lubricant more than anything helps with friction
I use 6oz of Motorcraft Cetane Booster at every fill up......
P.S. their is junk in every tank at the tank farm / loading facility their can be feet of stuff on the bottom sand water slude etc.and it gets delivered everywhere I'd rather buy diesel that sat than been stirred up if it sat fine depends more on if they maintain pumps meaning filters.
Injector protection with products like dieselkleen are proven tried and true. Not sure who talks about it giving horsepower or engine longevity.
That is what I understand as well. My ex's dad was a mechanic. He advised I use the grey bottle of diesel kleen. My truck is an 04. He claimed the ultra low sulfur lacks lubricant that the older diesels require for their injectors.
Derek Boberg Correct and the silver dieselkleen is what every farmer I know runs in their trucks and tractors. These boys actually use their stuff
Bio Diesel, 2%, 5, 10 or 20%. MN. is going to 20% next summer. 10 % now, 5% over winter. That stuff is soybean oil, is good lubrication. Diesel Kleen doesn't work for the winter, anti gelling, i tried it, in my 2011 F350. I was using 50/50 no.1 & no. 2 for the winter, but ran out of it at the Farm tank, so i had some in another 500 gallon tank, summer fuel, so i seen this stuff advertised. Added it like they said, but it got down below 0 one night. Low fuel pressure came on the pickup. Then i added another jug, for below 0 , power reduced was the next message on the pickup. I got home, another trucker was right behind me with a load of feeder calves. He had the 911 product in the red jug, he gave me some, it worked. So this product is not a lubricant, bio diesel is. This product is suppose to raise your cetain rating, but i was already use premium diesel fuel I never have used these diesel fuel additives, have 3 diesel farm tractors too, all work great, no fuel problems.
@Klug Farms Klug, the silver bottle will not help with fuel gelling, it does include diesel slick lubricator and is certified for use in my Cummins. I live in southern NM so gelling typically isn't an issue. Power Service also sales a white bottle that prevents fuel gelling. I did have an issue hunting up north and used this. It worked (slowly) to get the fuel back to normal.
The White bottle was suppose to take care of gelling. I bought it at a Parts store, i called them back & the older guy said, that't all this crushed rock company uses all winter, the one gallon for 250 gallons. So i read the fine print, below 0, so i added another gallon, it didn't work. So if this product doesn't work, you can assume the others don't either. I have a pump / old fuel pump at the Stations, that has a sight glass with a spinner inside. The bio diesel fat had settled out, when that cold, in this sight glass. It doesn't work. But the 911 did, & i didn't change filters after this either. You going to make some thing, it better work as you say, specially when you out on the highway at below -0 temps, life or death there.....................
I’d like to agree with some of the other posters about the switch to ULSD in 2008. Trucks built before that year can benefit from fuel additives. While there isn’t an additive that contains sulfur that I’m aware of, some improve lubricity with oils or other chemicals and improve cetane which can sometime make a noticeable improvement especially if you have been running low cetane fuel. I have a 2006 Powerstroke (6.0) and feel like the Motorcraft PM22 fuel additive makes an improvement in idle quality and power and hope it improves longevity. I generally don’t use oil or fuel additives in my other vehicles and don’t believe in the “mechanic in a can” products lining the shelves of my local auto parts store but I do feel like this is an exception.
I have a 7,3 and my truck don't like this dry diesel it gets better millage .goes from 18 to 21 . keep up the hard work thanks.
Mark Duncan totally agree the older motors need the lubrication this new diesel formula just doesn’t have. Probably why I’m still in the habit of adding fuel additives to my 6.7 because they use them in my 7.3
Exactly.
Hi, additives. 2019 Ram 3500 6.7 HO
1. FASS fuel filters. Also drastically reduces if not eliminates air in the fuel.
2. Formula 3 (Lubrication Specialists) extreme pressure oil additive. Made my diesel almost sound like a gas motor.
3. TK-7 704 diesel fuel additive. Runs better; period.
Check these products out. Any questions, respond.
Benton
Great, thanks. Where I live I can wake up to minus 20 degree weather. The only reason I use additives is for Anti Gel purposes. Yeah, no palm trees around here.
I was told one time many years ago about performance additives, "If they improved anything (horsepower, mpg, etc) then the oil companies would be adding it themselves and make the claim that their fuel was better." That's just for performance additives. Other additives might do other things and might do them well but you do not need them in the fuel all the time.
Henry In the case of gasoline many do exactly this.
I drive my 2013 Jetta until the low fuel light comes on .Then I fill up at the same BP station.It is a very busy one and some times they run out.So I know it's always fresh .I also get a oil change every 10'000 Miles and change the fuel filter too..So far no problems .Always cranks right up and runs great .
My Tdi is always filled with love's diesel with a little howe's diesel treatment before filling up, with regular use of diesel purge for my injector and pumps. Does it work? Maybe, maybe not. More than likely a placebo affect but it reinforces my habit for meticulous maintenance habits and it makes me feel satisfied.
It’s good to run products like Diesel Kleen for the simple fact that it helps lubricates injectors and the fuel system. It’s because of the low lubricating problems of ultra low sulfur diesel
The ford cetane booster gives me a little extra power I believe. It’s about $10 for a bottle that treats $125. My truck idles at 62 dbs inside the truck with this additive. Also I run 5w40 ford synthetic. Good video thank you for taking the time to post.
I can verify that on old, light duty all mechanical diesels and additive can make a difference. My 12v Cummins would have a very light haze on take off after idling with no additive, using an additive eliminated that haze entirely. As for performance, I’ll really never know. Also a Winter additive does help the old mechanical ones when it’s down to 0 all the time.
There are about 5 companies that make additives for diesels that freeze in the winter. All of which are the best on the market because they don’t have alcohol in them. Alcohol and water the two things you don’t want in a Diesel engine. Alcohol is present in a large portion of diesel additives. Local diesel mechanic done a bunch of test and found that about 5 diesel additives work the others are actually harder on the engine.
I have found that they really aren't needed IF you run your truck like it was designed. Now i have found as you get into the higher milage some products can help with aging parts and stuff. But like anything being well looked after and maintained will always be the best guarantee to long life..
Wow first time I have to say, "I think you are wrong". I use the additive for anti-gel and clean the injectors. Last winter it was 2 degrees at 4 pm. I didn't put enough in and it took over a hour to start it. So won't make than mistake again. Also carry the red bottle just in case.
+madmax2099a: i should have clarified its a regional choice as well. thanks
That's hilarious! Your suppose to drink it first, you silly Donkey! Then pass water into the filler neck.
On a commercial scale its cheaper to fix broken trucks than pay people to fill them with additives "just in case". My fuel level sensor was gummed up and i was quoted $500 to fix it. I used a fuel additive and it fixed the problem. I saved $480. Paying a commercial HD mechanic to diagnose a gummed up fuel sensor probably costs the same as it would to get him to put a new sensor in.
I'm a huge fan of Fuel Injector Cleaner & adding Cetane. It helps my 7.3 IDI run smother.
I've had no issues purchasing my fuel from low volume at about $.25 less per gallon but, I stopped doing so do to repetitively seeing large contaminants in my fuel can after my pre-screening.
I don't use additive every fill up because, I don't carry it with me all of the time.
I live in British Columbia, Canada, where it can get to -40C. We regularly get -25 - 30C. Well maintained diesel engines do not need any fuel additives of any kind here. This is a myth. Yes, some folks do use additives, but most of us don't and manage just find. Maybe we have better diesel fuels here? Change your filters (water is your enemy), use a block heater when necessary and park in a sheltered area when possible. It's no big deal, folks!
If you don't use anti gel additive in your diesel during the winter here in upstate NY, then your diesel will gel and you will be dead in the water. And as far as diesel additives there are a ton, but I add 10oz of Sea foam every time I fill my truck up with diesel. Most but not all additives are made to just keep your diesel running at it's full potential, not give you a boost of power, and also helping your injectors from soot build-up, nothing else other than that really. I would rather take my chances using treatment additives that help remove any water, and that help keep my injectors clean. Not saying your wrong, just my thought.
I use Stanadyne at every fill up in my dmax. I fill up at Walmart mostly because they have a lot of customers but also because it’s significantly less expensive - Shell wants like 30 cents more per gallon (credit card) - no way I’m paying that when Walmart seems fine to me. Dmax runs like a champ.
Wally World diesel seems to me a great place yo buy. Not because it is cheaper, but because it is cheaper = more customers, more customers = fast diesel turnover in the tanks /fresher fuel. I also heard that Costco is one of few vendors in the US that dispenses top tier diesel.
What is the most miles you have ever put on one of your light duty trucks?
you have missed mentioning one of the main reasons a person might add an additive... and that is anti-gelling of the fuel. This is the only reason I use it as I have had my fuel gel and it is no fun.
I use additive only to maintain my fuel quality not for performance, I seem to have positive results
I would agree that regular maintenance is the the key to a happy healthy Engine... l use the "severe duty" schedule...
Thumbs up, but you should have mentioned that in cold weather anti-gelling additive is necessary.
I'm a firm believer in a additive to replace the lubricity in the fuel. I use Diesel Kleen much of the year and Switch to Power Service in the winter (live in north Idaho). Injector tips still rely on the fuel to lubricate them. I don't know that performance is enhanced because I won't fill up without it. At $3500 for 8 new injectors last year I'm not taking any chances with my truck.
You answered the question about “performance”, but nothing about cold weather diesel gelling. Is it ok to add the additive for cold weather gelling?
Definitely
I run diesel kleen. Is it the best? Probably not. But, wallyworld carries it and i know for sure it bumps the mpg's up in my 6.0. Now on my 6.7 time will tell as I've only put 2k miles on it. I will also add, without an occasional additive in your tank algae can build up. Don't believe me? Google it. I've seen it first hand expecially in higher temp environments. Lastly, i was a fleet mechanic for 15 yrs on all makes and models as well as on heavy equipment agricultural /construction. Love the vids. Nice work!
Ive always used lucas products on gas vehicles, and diesel kleen products on diesels. Never had any problems so i keep using
Unless you live in cold climates you need that antigel was in Chicago like minus 10 truck woulnt start they had to pull truck in shop and put heaters on it. Learned about gelled fuel
Turn on 4x4 when you drive over camera. Spin them driveshafts
draining the fuel water separator is more important vs where you buy the fuel
Perhaps when the vehicle is very old/ many many miles, that's when the additive truly helps? I've seen seafoam not do squat on a 150k mile diesel, mine. But. I have seen it on older and higher mileage gas/diesels do wonders.
For the most part (but not always),mechanics, fleet managers, and service technicians are not taught about motor oil. Now-a-days they're specialists in a particular area, motor, suspension, transmission etc. That's the reason you're getting varying opinions on additives, oil, and service intervals etc. What I would do in your position, change your oil and transmission fluid over to Amsoil. You'll be amazed at the savings, less time in the shop, and more hauling power.
The Beaten Paths BG244 for diesel fuel
I had a diesel Olds once and never had a problem with cold temps. A friend of mine had a diesel pickup and said he was told by a diesel mechanic to add 1 gallon of unleaded gas to a full tank of diesel and he would be okay for cold temperatures. I don't know if that would really work.
MHammer
I am surprised you did not have injector pump problems. The Oldsmobile diesel was equipped with a temperamental injector pump especially the governor retainer ring.
I agree that fresh fuel and scheduled maintenance a stock vehicle will run as advertised. My 2017 Ram 2500 C sends me a monthly report and it's system analysis it may turn out to be a gimmick or would it send a message to the EPA if I did a DEF and EGR delete? Not that I would do that. Sometimes systems fail and that is to be expected but when folks start experimenting with the engine and it's management system the factory warranty for what it is worth is voided because sometimes maybe the experiment turns out wonderful and all the advertised gains are produced and other times it turns into a magnificent fail and dude bricked his truck. I stick to my daily driver stock and if I want to hotrod a
Bro truck I would go and get something that doesn't require emission compliance because a hotrod is meant to be run on the edge in some sticky mud.
Certain Fuel additives like Stanadyne are crucial for longevity of the older diesel injection pumps and injectors it might not do as much for newer designs but for older engines that were designed to run on the higher sulfer fuel which epa regulations forced out of the fuel for emissions purposes it is a must to add them back. Try not running any additives in something like my 95 Gmc with the 6.5l Detroit see how many pumps last.
I have a 2001 Ford 7.3 I run diesel Kleen
I know my truck will never get the mpg as a car otherwise I would have got a car but I’m curious if these additives will help to reduce the carbon buildup in my EGR cooler and other components.
They changed the fuel in 2006 so anything that was made before that was designed on regular not ultra low sulfur
I know I’m late to this discussion but Ai have to say all diesels will ultimately have an issue with sticktion and DPF soot build up. Please check out Arch Oil. Extremely tested and proven to help with both of these issues.
So you just drive down the road and bloviate without evidence...?
Diesel quality here in PR today isn't the same as the states, here it lacks on lubricity hense more breakdowns in the shop, if we had better diesel fuel we won't use ads or the good old tactics to keep these engines running great.
What about people that don’t drive their trucks daily? For those of us that have a commuter vehicle and a truck for when it’s needed, wouldn’t a fuel stabilizer be a good idea?
thumbs up on the thumbnail alone
I put Lucas in my truck it changed it from starting in 10 sec or more two two sec the way it's supposed to be ?
FORD as regular maintenance suggests to put Injector cleaner every 5000KM.
I CONCUR COMPLETELY.....
In these newer engines, { STAGE 3 / 4 } they are designed (OR SUPPOSEDLY) to run on these newer fuels, ONLY those older diesel motors really need that (OILIER) based fuel for longer (NORMAL) life. In my lifetime I have experiences in working with, on, and inside diesel engines for 50 years..... These new EPA [clean air} engines run so hot, they are becoming a completely reborn world of their own !!!!! ?????? BEST hint ---- "IF YOU ARE GOING TO RUN DIESEL POWER IN COLD COUNTRY / PURCHASE ALL THE COLD WEATHER OPERATING OPTIONS AVAILABLE FROM MANUFACTURER" (They have [hopefully] researched and developed a product to run WITHOUT the NEED for additives. ?????? !!!!!
Not an additive kind of guy. However... Have a 7.3. cold start was getting worse and worse. Tried the Hot Shot stuff. Don't know what it did but it did the trick. I'm still gonna say most additive stuff is just snake oil but...
We used cetane booster in our 2009 f-250 6.4 and the mpg was a lot better, but it ran worse
My suggestion as a retired mechanic is to change your fuel filter with ever oil change on your diesel truck to help prevent some of the problems these additives claim to fix.
sir, that would make my oil change over 300 every time, versus once a year at that price
Additives add critical lubrication that is no longer in diesel fuel. The fuel filter only removes contamination. Mechanical injectors absolutely need additional lubrication.
Cummins now recommends using Diesel Klerk in their engines.
If I am not going to be driving my truck much over the winter should I add something during this time of the year to keep my old diesel fresh?
I use additives when the temps get to minus 15F or colder. It keeps the fuel from gelling. Otherwise, no additives.
Question for you guys. I agree with buying fuel from stations that turn their fuel supply over frequently. I have a 2015 F250 I use to tow a camper. It sees limited driving otherwise. I have a 50 Gallon Titan tank. A tank of fuel may last me a couple of months when I’m not towing. Should I use Stabil for diesel?
Mmn2709 I would if it sits around a good bit. Look at it this way it sure won't hurt
I stick to the same brand of fuel I don't believe Diesel is the same everywhere
Ok, now, you understand that what you said in this video, reflects opinions of different people and nothing based on engineering research. I started my automotive life with graduating a automecanical school, being a mecanic, a master mecanic and because I loved my profession, I graduated from a university as an engineer in automotive and combustion engines. I would say that with the abundance of additives we have on the market, NOBODY knows the real purpose of it. Everybody knows best, everyone has the best additive, and pretty much, none does the job wel. First of all, as a professional the only additive for engine oil and for fuel and I am refering for diesel engines, it is the ones which are based on MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE. Also the additives based on MOLYBDENUM DISULPHIDE can be used in gas engine oil, but not into the gasoline. Other then that everything I will declared it SNAKE OIL
This additive has been used on engines oil and diesel fuel since 40's and was Romel's secret of having good engines in the harshest environment of the desert.
Biodiesel is the best additive. There was a study done on this.
eag 8999 hope your being sarcastic because I haul fuel for a living and bio diesel idss the worst.
The worst how? It has the best lubricity by far, the best cleaning ability by far, and I gain about 2mpg whenever I run it.
And 2 stroke oil was second best in the aforementioned study. I'm sure you can find it via googling or looking through forums.
eag 8999 study don't do any justice I could do a study on anything and come to a conclusion that agrees with whoever paying me. Bio holds water. Water is really bad for diesel motor. Don't believe me have found algae growing in bio tanks and also have seen it in fuel filters. Algae need water to grow. Looks red or a dark color solid plant like substance. That simple my truck I run straight diesel and get almost 19 to 20mpg . I ran that bio 20% once 17mpg and truck regen 4 times on one tank. Only regen once on straight diesel
eag 8999 bio is not a additive as you think it may be it is a filler so these truck stops can sell fuel at the same price but get it for way less. Bio is cheaper. It like ethanol in gas now. Cheaper to get but can do more damage then what it worth.
only additive we add to our diesels is anti gelling formula for fuel during the winter.
Well not adding one bottle but I figure is at least something like marvel mystery oil seems like it should be good for just about everything
Diesel pickup trucks, meaning 2500 or 3500, are considered heavy duty. 1500s are the light duty trucks. Im sorry but you seem to be mistaken about that
Wrong 2500 and 3500 are still considered light duty
Katy, Texas looks like?
No that's Corpus Christ
I owned 2 diesels over the past 10 years. I can tell you from experience that a quality additive will help in three different ways. First, it will improve fuel mileage to a degree. Second, it will definitively improve towing performance and thirdly by increasing the cetane rating, it will help to keep the dpf filter cleaner.
I added a question to you discussion form but I guess you don't answer on there. I am looking a getting a new truck and cant decide between a 350 or 450. I will be bumper pulling a 40 foot boat that loaded is about 16,000 to 17,-000 pounds. Any thoughts in which truck and any options you feel I need to make sure I add to it
Two additives that can be worth it if the situation warrants it. Anti gel, and biocide.
some of the products work and matter but in not normal conditions like really cold or hot or if you know your going to be working the engine hard, if u using them just for driving truck around normally you wasting money
Off topic question: Should I perhaps blue Locktite my tonneau cover bolts? The hardware already loosened up on several of the clamps and need to be reinstalled after just 2K miles.
Yes and if you Use nuts With nylon ring Lock On Top must have bought the cheap shit
FixItStupid Thanks
No offense, but that was clear like mud. I will say that modern, low sulfur diesel lacks adequate lubricity for modern injectors. There are exceptions to this rule. That being1. high sulfur diesel found overseas or in some offered commercial applications, 2. expensive diesel where additives have been added for you, and 3. biodiesel which just naturally has very high lubricity (and detergent properties). Lubricity problems in diesel won't rear it's ugly head on new vehicles that still have the prettiness coating intact on the injectors nozzles. On older or higher mileage vehicles, a good additive will yield noticeable results. The other thing that additives effect are cetane. If you shop at discount diesel places, the cetane rating is lower than optimal. A good additive will remedy this. So if you've got a new low mileage truck, and you use good (expensive) diesel, additives are worthless. If you have an older truck or a high mileage truck, and or you use the discount fuel, there are gains to be had by using additives. Weather or not it's worth the cost savings is up to you. I have measurable gains with Diesel Kleen Power Service, using cheap diesel in my 03 6.0. It idles smoother, starts better, and gets 1.5 mpg better fuel economy. I could get good fuel instead but it's a 45 minute drive.