I think GM should congratulate you by throwing a new engine in that rig. Half a million miles on a emmisions compliant rig is awesome. This fella is a true working class man…. I’m willing to send a donation to see him get back on the road. I’m sure there’s more of us subscribes willing as well. Who’s with me ?. Let’s get this guy back on the road !!!.
Thank you guys, y'all are awesome! But i couldn't let/ ask yall do that. I'm very appriciative and humbled but I'll get it soon enough. I appriciate you guys.
Thank you! I appriciate it. I looked at quite a few but have kinda got overwhelmed with some other things going on. Ill get on it soon. Thank you, you have definitely remotivated me :)
Hey Farmer, you took me to school with you videos. I have the 2018 Silverado duramax 3500 dually & you have taught me alot. Thank you for your time in putting together a library of how to's. One of you other followers mention making a donation to help you get back rolling again, Im in. Check is in the mail. Keep on rollin Framer ! Dok
Ps I agree GM should sponsor Farmer with a New engine & take his old engine for trade & research.... IMAGIN the goodwill that would create & advertising the strength of the L5P - 500,000 miles !
I want to be your neighbor! You are the most humble down to earth guy I know. I hope you get your truck back in working order soon sir. If I was your neighbor I promise I would help you!
Just lost my beloved '05 LLY at 259k because my dad totaled it while towing. Was a little afraid of the 15-19 trucks, but you're convincing me that these newer trucks are still worth it!
I know how that feels. My older brother totaled my first truck a few months ago. It was a 2003 Silverado 1500, extended cab long bed 4x4. A unicorn. It was a very centimental truck, but I am thankful it wasn’t my Duramax.
The gm hd duramax is a really solid truck. Mines 20 yo. My sons 3500 van Duramax has over 400 k three of our service rigs have between 290 k and 439.k never been apart original trans.
A friend of mine had a 2019 L5P 2500 High Country and traded it in for a 2023 1500 LTZ all optioned out. (to be fair, he did get the baby 3.0 Duramax and loves it) He just didn't like the way the 2500 rode and drove. Myself, I would have taken that 2500 truck in a heartbeat! I have a 1500 2017 Silverado and moving over to that just wasn't financially feasible. If I could to redo my 1500 purchase over again, I would jump on a 2500 L5P, for certain. Thanks for the content, Charles, you really put this through the ringer but it hang on for quite a long time. Oh, and AutoSync, even for my 1500 is great! Thanks to BTDiesel!
Hi Farmer. New subscriber here. I came across you when I was doing some research on the L5P. I'm looking at a 2018 Sierra Denali 2500 with 160,000 kms (100,000 miles). I was worried about potential problems but after watching your 300,000 mile review and this one you've reassured me that other than normal stuff I don't have much to worry about. I'm looking at this truck on Tuesday and if the seller and I can agree on a price I will be buying it. Thanks. Dave in Ontario, Canada
@@CFarmerYou mentioned that you always use Rotella T4 oil. Do you always use the same brand of filters? Did you ever have any problems with any of the interior power options and tech? The truck I'm looking at has more bells and whistles than any truck I've ever owned. I currently drive an 08 Silverado 2500hd LTZ with the 6.0 gasser. It has the most options of any vehicle I've owned and it's nothing compared to the 18 Sierra Denali that I'm looking at. Thanks Dave
This video definitely helps my confidence in buying a higher mileage l5p. I’m looking to buy a l5p with 100-150k miles. I’m gonna have mine fully deleted with a 5 inch straight pipe and a 3 inch down pipe.
2017 High Country with 151k on it. Bought it brand new. Other than a recently squeaking turbo on accel and when the exhaust brake is on, been pretty solid. Banks Derringer and intake mod when new and been great. #4 injector harness too lol. Do love the truck and will drive it into the ground. Appreciate the content. Keep it up! Thank you.
I have same year model Duramax. I love it. I really appreciate your videos Farmer. Looking forward to finding out what the solution for your low oil pressure is. Thanks again for taking time out to make these videos.
Lucas L3 bulbs are ridiculous bright. I did A week ago and it’s the brightest headlight I’ve ever had in my life. Just my opinion I wouldn’t be afraid of that oil pressure really. my engine builder said general rule of thumb is 10 psi oil pressure for every thousand RPM is adequate
Hey Dude , Live the channel brother!!!!! I got a 2019 2500 Silverado Duramax LTZ loaded crew cab 8ft bed with the factory goose neck. Same truck as yours. I bought it used it has 52,000 miles on it and I love it. Totally dig the channel and look forward to more videos. You cover a lot too f great material. Very detailed and informational . I haven’t had any problems yet with mine except the info tanment center goes haywire From time to time and sometimes it shifts had or probably when the trans locks otherwise no problems. It’s my daily driver and I haven’t towed heavy but definitely strong truck . It’s all stock only upgrades are something that I think would greatly benefit you !!! Stock headlights are terrible. I bought some LEDs I forget the brand but I run them in other vehicles and huge difference , but no worth a damn on these trucks right . I saw in one of your videos that you done the same thing and went back to factory. So I found some that are SUPER SUPER SUPER BRIGHT!!!!!!! I promise you won’t be let down. There sold at “Diesel Led “ that’s the websites d name of the company I forgot the brand of the lights . But I promise you they are 500 % better than stock . I bought the low beams and the fog lamps with are the same as the low beams and MAN !!!! These suckers are bright I promise. I also bought the reverse lights and lisense plate lights all LEDs and super super bright !!!! In reverse it’s like having my high beams on n almost. All for set ups I gave about $500 total. My name is jackson and I live in Fayetteville NC Check them out you won’t regret it . Also happy you got the engine swap and back on the road . Good luck dude and god bless. I can’t figure out how to post the pictures of the lights on here for you but Diesel LEDs .com . Thanks for all your content and I know when something goes down on my truck I’ll be pulling knowledge from your videos and will make a comment when that day comes . Btw you seem like a awesome guy and keep those videos coming and take it easy dude . Thank you
I have a 2018 GMC 2500 HD Duramax, only use occasionally when I need a truck. Also tow my 6500 lb Airstream 6X a season. Just hit 40K miles, guess I don’t have to worry about too much for a while. I only add a gallon of DEF at a time so it stays fresh. Keep oil changed every 5K mi with Mobile Delvac, fuel filter and transmission filters changed, Cleaned MAP sensor once, replaced coolant tank because of bad sensor. Truck runs perfect.
I'm shocked your shocks are still original! Pun intended. On my 2016 3/4 duramax my Rancho shocks were crap after 24K miles. I went to Bilsteins and I'll never worry again. :) Loved the video, hope you get your L5P running again soon.
Thank you, i had planned to go with bilsteins. I know a lot of guys with Ranchos that had to change them and said they weren't impressive when they were new. I appriciate it
Love the Duramaxes. I'm familiar with the older Duramaxes. 03 LB7...05 LLY....08 LMM. Love em all. But i do think new air filters are a huge factor. Oil.. air...fuel. Duramax all the way. Also like your injector story. Mechanics can be so tricky.
Super video bud. I’ll tap my horn at that billboard in Middlebury every time I pass by just knowing the work that that truck is done. Can’t wait to see that thing back on the road. Mine hit 500 yesterday just hoping it’s got a couple hundred left in it. Take care bud
Can't wait to see what happened with the oil pressure! Got to be something like the gear slipping on the shaft or a gasket blown out causing pressure loss since it happened right after a severely high pressure event.
Still feel the oil pump is not hurt as it increases with RPM. What needs verified is where the pressure is dumping out from prior to pressurizing the oil galley. Verify the oil pump relief valve is not stuck open. i say that as with the over-rev situation you may have spiked the oil pressure and had the relief valve piston move in it's bore to a point that had accumulated a lot of varnish and is now stuck open dumping oil pressure back in the pan. I spent a full day tracking this same issue down on an industrial diesel engine after a cold start that over revved and then had low oil pressure reported. I think this relief is located around the oil filter area on the side of the block. I like the savage engine scenario as I said before the truck has good bones and a doctor that takes very good care of her.
Thank you, That sounds like a very good possibility. I will have to look into where its at and check it out. The thing that gets me is the "gear wine"(for lack of belter description). I wish I could get things calmed down to where I could get into it without interruption but Life keeps holding me back, lol
Oil pump noise can sometimes be contributed to aeration through the oil pump pickup tube above the oil level in the pan. Possible that is the gear pump noise you are describing. If that was the case you know the rod bearings will have sufferer lubricity issues (tri-metal bronze bearing material in filter pleats) and a salvage motor is the preferred choice.@@CFarmer
I know you switched to new wheels AFTER the lug nuts started breaking but my dad had a tundra that started snapping studs after he put aftermarket wheels on. He also takes his truck to a shop. Anyway. He bought new OEM wheels and OEM studs and never had another problem
One more thing. I'd totally recommend driving that truck with the oil pressure way it is. It will carry you a long way. At least an older Duramax I'm very familiar with was like that. And if you're thinking a new engine what do u have to lose
Look into buying kryptonite wheel studs. I believe they are grade 8 material so they should last longer. They are also life time warranty. Great video!
Good info not much went wrong for that many miles and hrs especially working it, and idling ever night. I got same truck hope it as good I got 120000 mile 3000hrs
I’m at about 491K on a 2012 6.7PS. Bought in 2016 with 150K miles. I’ve averaged 8K per year in repairs, maintenance, consumables, and upgrades. Still on original engine and transmission, but if I towed anything like you do, the transmission would be gone. TCM is bad but still functional.
8k a year in repairs over 8 years is 64k. I’m a ford guy but why would you put 64k into a 2012 PS? I’d just replace the whole truck at that point. I have 128k miles on my 2019 and I’ve had $0 in repairs only maintenance items like oil and filters and a few sets of tires.
@@jimmy4x4socal44 8K/year is basically free. The payment on a new truck (even a 2-3 year old truck) would easily run 12K-18K/year, plus maintenance, repairs, higher insurance, and TTL for the initial purchase. Believe me, I’ve considered it, huge expense compared to maintaining a paid off truck. I’m at 507K now, still trucking.
If you pick up 2 tractors in say Ohio and take them to Texas, when you deliver you would hook to boom trailer and drive to Denton Texas or wherever the next 2 trucks are then hook them up and go again. Pickup is mainly to haul fuel and get from one set to another
I’ve messaged you a couple of times on my ‘17 Duramax and really appreciate your knowledge and your posting videos to help us keep running out here! Was reaching out again to ask you about these codes I’ve recently received. I have 125K on my Duramax. 20 or so miles ago I got the P01F0 and noticed the temp gauge was not getting much over 175 (best I can tell) and the heater seemed not to warm. I erased the code as was planning to get the coolant flushed and would replace the thermostats at that time. Then the next time I drove my truck, it kicked out a code P1478 exhaust sensor. My question is could the engine not running at optimum temperature cause the exhaust sensor to dirty up and not read properly? Also I’ve searched most all of your videos and didn’t see in your 300K/500K reviews where you ever had to change your thermostats. Did you ever have any thermostat issues? Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated! RJones Lubbock, Texas
My lml is amazing, fuel treatment every tank, just a beast. My buddies l5p has done good but has needed repairs. Sticking with 16 and older is the best deal to me. Schaeffer oil in all my rigs.
Far as lug nuts go… if you’re under torque you could be causing issues there. Too much strain on the studs not sure if the wheels are hub centric, but if they’re not (and supposed to be) then being under torque will also cause issues. Being at torque spec is your best bet for seating the wheel to the hub the way the factory intended. Also if they’re supposed to be hub centric and they aren’t, then getting a hub centric wheel would also be a go-to for reducing strain on the studs. Also being at torque spec would help with them coming loose (unless I misunderstood what you were saying here and you are setting them to 140 ft lbs). Clean bolts/nuts at spec shouldn’t need anything additional to hold tight without issue. Awesome hearing about the few issues you’ve had with your L5P. Just bought one myself and this makes me feel good about my purchase. Good luck with the motor!
When do you have to slide the B&W hitch back towards the tailgate? Everything you go to fuel up? Looking at getting a 5th wheel and wonder about cab contact during tight turns.
Was watching an older one when you were discussing various topics and you were talking about weights and the magic 26000. You didn’t mention pin weight at all? With a 16000 lb trailer you would be well over pin weight? What does DOT say about that if anything
Did you ever figure out why your truck was intermittently no crank, no start? My LML just started doing the same thing. Sometimes just clicks, but then try it a couple more times and it starts. Very aggravating.
Thank you! No sir. Dpf is original and never been taken off. I'm sure it needs to be removed and cleaned. I ran hot shots secrets EDT every fill up (106 gallons with aux tank) 3 tanks in a row then swapped to lucas dpf cleaner on the 4th tank then went back to hotshot secret 3 more tanks
I don’t have time to finish the video right now, but- if you had a “new” tire “break a belt”( internal separation), then you had a defective tire. It wasn’t made correctly. Sounds like you have improper rim fit on the truck and I would immediately get back to an OE rim and nut pairing. The issue probably started when they overtorqued your studs and stretched your studs, which then continued stretching and that’s why they got loose. Once some studs got loose, that overloads the others and I think you should just replace all the studs on each hub if you’re having issues. Look at the nuts and where the nut bears against each hole to see how they match. Also check the center hole fit to the hub OD.
I heard him say 8-10k miles in the video. And he said he does 2 quarts of Lucas stabilizer, which seems a lot to me. That can cause a lot higher oil pressure by itself.
I bought a 15 3500 duramax 2 years ago and will never get rid of it. 160k and only replaced starter. The rest of the bs ive replaced is all pollution control.
I would highly recommend putting on a lift pump, either air dog or fass. Will help to significantly prolong the life of the injection pump and injectors
32% idling time is not too bad considering your sleeping in it running heat or a/c at night. And it looks good too. The last good looking design before they made the ugly current day Silverado.
Hey what where the signs on pinion bearing failure? I did a seal 15k miles ago and its leaking again. Worried bearing might be bad. Fluids clean and no noise. Just curious what led to yours being replaced
Noticed the pinion seal was wet seeping. then on the same trip a humm that turned into a wine when driving and either coasting along or slowing down from highway speeds. Was pretty much roaring all time by the time i got it home. It very well could be. If the bearing is worn it can cause the seal to leak
@CFarmer thank you for the reply. Mines Still quite. Just didn't want to throw another seal at it if I have bigger issues. Best of luck looking forward to the next video
I wonder if you put mystik oil in there would it be better for the engine my dad Cummings he put it in there and they test the engine and they got better numbers out of just changing the oil because the one you use everyone uses I feel like that what the company got the deals on that oil but the Cummings is dump truck
Ya until you can’t fined parts anymore for the older trucks due to the EPA. The EPA is going to push you into a new truck. But I have family that has the new 2022 and one just got a new 2023 L5P and they love it. They also like having the 10 speed transmission win they are pulling.
I agree, parts are dwindling down. Eventually they want us all leasing electric. That's awesome. I hear good things about the 10 speed. The people i know who have it love it
Why were you using 2 quarts of lucas oil stabilizer? Two quarts is 20% of your oil and that stuff is like 90weight. You should only use that if you have a leaking main seal to get you by. That might be why your oil pump took a crap. Your engine oil should only be a 15 weight when cold. 15w-40….not 35w-65 with the lucas. And just a small fwiw because i have studied oil until my eyes bled….you can switch any brand, any type at any time….just stay with the recommended weight. You engine cannot be harmed in anyway by using different additive packages, which is the only difference in the off the shelf oils. If you switch to ester based or pao’s, your engine would be much better off.
@johnsmith-…absolutely. I worked on 18 wheelers for long time and when we had a leaky seal we would add one gallon of lucas to a 6NZ cat engine that held 15 gallons of oil. He should be adding ounces instead of quarts. Why is he using it anyway. That product is for engines that have problems, not good leak free engines. That stuff has an additive that softens seals so you only use it if your engine is leaking or on its last leg.
It's funny how you're like 2016 or under because "emmissions". We said in 14-15 2008 or earlier...in 07 we said 04...Yada Yada yada...71 or earlier. In 10 years the 2024's will be the "simple" engines.
That's true. Every year we are programmed a little further out of our own property. As long as there are parts for older trucks i caint see me buying another vehicle 2017 or newer. The engines are all pretty simple it's the programming that I'm against. Kinda like buying a house and being told it's mine but i caint use the living room.
@@CFarmerjust because you can't trace some extra wiring and don't understand programming doesn't mean it's bad. Lmls are a way worse platform than l5p. And 500k miles is helluve mileage nothing to be complaining about. The 2024s aren't that much more complicated. Similar just locked down ecm again in tuning regards. Just like these were back in 2017
Agree on that have 2012 f250 panels and dash are solid , thinking about getting same 2500 truck used , will pull all the door panels put kilmat in doors and felt tape between plastic parts and really helps , just did my 2003 escursion it’s silent now
kinda worrys me. my 06 lbz has 600k and still no need for motor work. wish they made them like they should. the l5p is a beast but man it should last longer :(
I think GM should congratulate you by throwing a new engine in that rig. Half a million miles on a emmisions compliant rig is awesome. This fella is a true working class man…. I’m willing to send a donation to see him get back on the road. I’m sure there’s more of us subscribes willing as well. Who’s with me ?. Let’s get this guy back on the road !!!.
Tell me how. I'm in.
Thank you guys, y'all are awesome! But i couldn't let/ ask yall do that. I'm very appriciative and humbled but I'll get it soon enough. I appriciate you guys.
Thank you! I appriciate it. I looked at quite a few but have kinda got overwhelmed with some other things going on. Ill get on it soon. Thank you, you have definitely remotivated me :)
@@jeffmockus5400. I sent a donation threw PayPal. The link is in his profile under description.
@@CFarmer I think you give everyone great guidance and knowledge. you deserve to get back on the road quicker if that’s what you want.
Man, I would love to have a beer with you seem like a down to earth man getting hard to find that on TH-cam
Thank you!
Lets get that motor out, bring it to my shop and lets get it done! Its a rough life without a truck
I love this channel. Nothing flashy or stupid, just a man and his truck. I wish more people on TH-cam were as down to earth as this guy
Hey Farmer, you took me to school with you videos. I have the 2018 Silverado duramax 3500 dually & you have taught me alot. Thank you for your time in putting together a library of how to's. One of you other followers mention making a donation to help you get back rolling again, Im in. Check is in the mail.
Keep on rollin Framer !
Dok
Awesome man !!!. Let’s get this guy rolling!!!
Ps I agree GM should sponsor Farmer with a New engine & take his old engine for trade & research....
IMAGIN the goodwill that would create & advertising the strength of the L5P - 500,000 miles !
I want to be your neighbor! You are the most humble down to earth guy I know. I hope you get your truck back in working order soon sir. If I was your neighbor I promise I would help you!
I have a 2018 L5P with 146,00 with very few problems. It runs great and does what I need it to do
Just lost my beloved '05 LLY at 259k because my dad totaled it while towing. Was a little afraid of the 15-19 trucks, but you're convincing me that these newer trucks are still worth it!
I know how that feels. My older brother totaled my first truck a few months ago. It was a 2003 Silverado 1500, extended cab long bed 4x4. A unicorn. It was a very centimental truck, but I am thankful it wasn’t my Duramax.
They're totally worth it. Especially the '17-'19s.
@@johnsmith-dx1rf got a '17 and love it for the short time I was back state side and able to drive it!
The gm hd duramax is a really solid truck. Mines 20 yo. My sons 3500 van Duramax has over 400 k three of our service rigs have between 290 k and 439.k never been apart original trans.
A friend of mine had a 2019 L5P 2500 High Country and traded it in for a 2023 1500 LTZ all optioned out. (to be fair, he did get the baby 3.0 Duramax and loves it)
He just didn't like the way the 2500 rode and drove.
Myself, I would have taken that 2500 truck in a heartbeat!
I have a 1500 2017 Silverado and moving over to that just wasn't financially feasible.
If I could to redo my 1500 purchase over again, I would jump on a 2500 L5P, for certain.
Thanks for the content, Charles, you really put this through the ringer but it hang on for quite a long time.
Oh, and AutoSync, even for my 1500 is great! Thanks to BTDiesel!
Hi Farmer. New subscriber here. I came across you when I was doing some research on the L5P. I'm looking at a 2018 Sierra Denali 2500 with 160,000 kms (100,000 miles). I was worried about potential problems but after watching your 300,000 mile review and this one you've reassured me that other than normal stuff I don't have much to worry about. I'm looking at this truck on Tuesday and if the seller and I can agree on a price I will be buying it. Thanks. Dave in Ontario, Canada
Thank you Dave! I hope you have great luck with the new truck and enjoy it for a long time
@@CFarmerYou mentioned that you always use Rotella T4 oil. Do you always use the same brand of filters?
Did you ever have any problems with any of the interior power options and tech? The truck I'm looking at has more bells and whistles than any truck I've ever owned. I currently drive an 08 Silverado 2500hd LTZ with the 6.0 gasser. It has the most options of any vehicle I've owned and it's nothing compared to the 18 Sierra Denali that I'm looking at. Thanks
Dave
This video definitely helps my confidence in buying a higher mileage l5p. I’m looking to buy a l5p with 100-150k miles. I’m gonna have mine fully deleted with a 5 inch straight pipe and a 3 inch down pipe.
Wow 500k miles
2017 High Country with 151k on it. Bought it brand new. Other than a recently squeaking turbo on accel and when the exhaust brake is on, been pretty solid. Banks Derringer and intake mod when new and been great. #4 injector harness too lol. Do love the truck and will drive it into the ground. Appreciate the content. Keep it up! Thank you.
Thank you, sounds like a nice ride! Mine was a broken manifold stud causing the squeaky turbo and exaust brake. Cleared it right up
I have same year model Duramax. I love it. I really appreciate your videos Farmer. Looking forward to finding out what the solution for your low oil pressure is.
Thanks again for taking time out to make these videos.
Thanks for sharing Mr Farmer! Hope you find a good resolution for the oil pressure situation. 😎👍
Great video. Glad to see you are still doing them. Stay safe.
Lucas L3 bulbs are ridiculous bright. I did A week ago and it’s the brightest headlight I’ve ever had in my life. Just my opinion I wouldn’t be afraid of that oil pressure really. my engine builder said general rule of thumb is 10 psi oil pressure for every thousand RPM is adequate
Like the sound of the Chevy in the intro over the Freightliner
Hey Dude , Live the channel brother!!!!!
I got a 2019 2500 Silverado Duramax LTZ loaded crew cab 8ft bed with the factory goose neck. Same truck as yours. I bought it used it has 52,000 miles on it and I love it. Totally dig the channel and look forward to more videos. You cover a lot too f great material. Very detailed and informational . I haven’t had any problems yet with mine except the info tanment center goes haywire
From time to time and sometimes it shifts had or probably when the trans locks otherwise no problems. It’s my daily driver and I haven’t towed heavy but definitely strong truck . It’s all stock only upgrades are something that I think would greatly benefit you !!!
Stock headlights are terrible. I bought some LEDs I forget the brand but I run them in other vehicles and huge difference , but no worth a damn on these trucks right . I saw in one of your videos that you done the same thing and went back to factory. So
I found some that are SUPER SUPER SUPER BRIGHT!!!!!!! I promise you won’t be let down. There sold at “Diesel Led “ that’s the websites d name of the company I forgot the brand of the lights . But I promise you they are 500 % better than stock . I bought the low beams and the fog lamps with are the same as the low beams and MAN !!!! These suckers are bright I promise.
I also bought the reverse lights and lisense plate lights all LEDs and super super bright !!!!
In reverse it’s like having my high beams on n almost. All for set ups I gave about $500 total.
My name is jackson and I live in Fayetteville NC
Check them out you won’t regret it . Also happy you got the engine swap and back on the road . Good luck dude and god bless.
I can’t figure out how to post the pictures of the lights on here for you but Diesel LEDs .com . Thanks for all your content and I know when something goes down on my truck I’ll be pulling knowledge from your videos and will make a comment when that day comes . Btw you seem like a awesome guy and keep those videos coming and take it easy dude . Thank you
I have a 2018 GMC 2500 HD Duramax, only use occasionally when I need a truck. Also tow my 6500 lb Airstream 6X a season. Just hit 40K miles, guess I don’t have to worry about too much for a while.
I only add a gallon of DEF at a time so it stays fresh. Keep oil changed every 5K mi with Mobile Delvac, fuel filter and transmission filters changed, Cleaned MAP sensor once, replaced coolant tank because of bad sensor. Truck runs perfect.
I'm shocked your shocks are still original! Pun intended. On my 2016 3/4 duramax my Rancho shocks were crap after 24K miles. I went to Bilsteins and I'll never worry again. :) Loved the video, hope you get your L5P running again soon.
Thank you, i had planned to go with bilsteins. I know a lot of guys with Ranchos that had to change them and said they weren't impressive when they were new. I appriciate it
Yep, i went bilsteins about 2006, never looked back. Outstanding product!
My gosh your videos are Awesome! I have l5p 70k good to know all this! Thanks so much!!
Love the Duramaxes. I'm familiar with the older Duramaxes. 03 LB7...05 LLY....08 LMM. Love em all. But i do think new air filters are a huge factor. Oil.. air...fuel. Duramax all the way. Also like your injector story. Mechanics can be so tricky.
Super video bud. I’ll tap my horn at that billboard in Middlebury every time I pass by just knowing the work that that truck is done. Can’t wait to see that thing back on the road. Mine hit 500 yesterday just hoping it’s got a couple hundred left in it. Take care bud
Thank ya sir, you about to pass me! I'm slacking. Stay safe out there bud
Good HP and torque and gps and good led headlights and good led fog light and party on. Nobody needs heated and cooled seats 😂
Can't wait to see what happened with the oil pressure! Got to be something like the gear slipping on the shaft or a gasket blown out causing pressure loss since it happened right after a severely high pressure event.
Still feel the oil pump is not hurt as it increases with RPM. What needs verified is where the pressure is dumping out from prior to pressurizing the oil galley. Verify the oil pump relief valve is not stuck open. i say that as with the over-rev situation you may have spiked the oil pressure and had the relief valve piston move in it's bore to a point that had accumulated a lot of varnish and is now stuck open dumping oil pressure back in the pan. I spent a full day tracking this same issue down on an industrial diesel engine after a cold start that over revved and then had low oil pressure reported. I think this relief is located around the oil filter area on the side of the block. I like the savage engine scenario as I said before the truck has good bones and a doctor that takes very good care of her.
Thank you, That sounds like a very good possibility. I will have to look into where its at and check it out. The thing that gets me is the "gear wine"(for lack of belter description). I wish I could get things calmed down to where I could get into it without interruption but Life keeps holding me back, lol
Oil pump noise can sometimes be contributed to aeration through the oil pump pickup tube above the oil level in the pan. Possible that is the gear pump noise you are describing. If that was the case you know the rod bearings will have sufferer lubricity issues (tri-metal bronze bearing material in filter pleats) and a salvage motor is the preferred choice.@@CFarmer
Just saw a short update that looked like you had it fixed??? Hopefully you will be doing a video on. Thanks
I look forward to your notebook to read !
Did you see what the low oil pressure cause was?
I still haven't torn it down. Keep getting pushed down on priority list :(
@CFarmer no worries. I feel the pain. The never ending "to do" list
I know you switched to new wheels AFTER the lug nuts started breaking but my dad had a tundra that started snapping studs after he put aftermarket wheels on. He also takes his truck to a shop. Anyway. He bought new OEM wheels and OEM studs and never had another problem
I have all of the wheels now just to get them changed over. I'm hoping that fixes my issue too. Thank you for your comment. Give me hope :)
Agreed on the cause being the aftermarket wheels.
One more thing. I'd totally recommend driving that truck with the oil pressure way it is. It will carry you a long way. At least an older Duramax I'm very familiar with was like that. And if you're thinking a new engine what do u have to lose
My winter tires are Terra hunters....last me 55k on miles...and wint break bank...but im a bf all terrain fan for all other diving....
Look into buying kryptonite wheel studs. I believe they are grade 8 material so they should last longer. They are also life time warranty. Great video!
Good video. Hoping you're back on the road soon
Sounds like its been a great truck, but you have knowledge alot of people don't.
Thank you! I don't feel like I know much sometimes, but I like to share what works for me
I did boom setups.
Good info not much went wrong for that many miles and hrs especially working it, and idling ever night. I got same truck hope it as good I got 120000 mile 3000hrs
Thank you! I think it did me good. Sounds like yours is just getting broke in :) i hope you have all good luck with it
@CFarmer yeah i got it at 100k only did nox sensor #2 and regular maintenance so far.
Any codes for water in the fuel system yet?
No changes to the original platform, ie its not deleted?
Really wish u would of done video on the on board air want to do but don’t know how to do all the features you have.
I’m at about 491K on a 2012 6.7PS. Bought in 2016 with 150K miles. I’ve averaged 8K per year in repairs, maintenance, consumables, and upgrades. Still on original engine and transmission, but if I towed anything like you do, the transmission would be gone. TCM is bad but still functional.
8k a year in repairs over 8 years is 64k. I’m a ford guy but why would you put 64k into a 2012 PS? I’d just replace the whole truck at that point. I have 128k miles on my 2019 and I’ve had $0 in repairs only maintenance items like oil and filters and a few sets of tires.
@@jimmy4x4socal44 8K/year is basically free. The payment on a new truck (even a 2-3 year old truck) would easily run 12K-18K/year, plus maintenance, repairs, higher insurance, and TTL for the initial purchase. Believe me, I’ve considered it, huge expense compared to maintaining a paid off truck. I’m at 507K now, still trucking.
I think that Lucas overstressed your oil pump. It’s like pumping asphalt.
Could be. I have always used it
@@CFarmer I’m not seeing how that makes it good.
Looking to purchase a 2017-2019 duramax for hotshot. It's got under 100k miles. How's it holding up? Is it worth it...
look for a 2016-2018 ram 3500 cummins with the aisin transmission.
What are you considering low oil pressure?
with the booming setup, what's the point of having the pickup between the two tractors?
If you pick up 2 tractors in say Ohio and take them to Texas, when you deliver you would hook to boom trailer and drive to Denton Texas or wherever the next 2 trucks are then hook them up and go again. Pickup is mainly to haul fuel and get from one set to another
What oil you been using?
What technology do you think you are avoiding in not buying a new truck? The new ones have the same stuff as what you're running now.
Absolutley not the same from a 18 to a 24
@@CFarmer saying that doesn't make it true. explain the difference.
I’ve messaged you a couple of times on my ‘17 Duramax and really appreciate your knowledge and your posting videos to help us keep running out here!
Was reaching out again to ask you about these codes I’ve recently received. I have 125K on my Duramax. 20 or so miles ago I got the P01F0 and noticed the temp gauge was not getting much over 175 (best I can tell) and the heater seemed not to warm. I erased the code as was planning to get the coolant flushed and would replace the thermostats at that time. Then the next time I drove my truck, it kicked out a code P1478 exhaust sensor.
My question is could the engine not running at optimum temperature cause the exhaust sensor to dirty up and not read properly? Also I’ve searched most all of your videos and didn’t see in your 300K/500K reviews where you ever had to change your thermostats.
Did you ever have any thermostat issues?
Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
RJones
Lubbock, Texas
Truck look good. get the low oil pressure fix and keep rolling
My lml is amazing, fuel treatment every tank, just a beast.
My buddies l5p has done good but has needed repairs.
Sticking with 16 and older is the best deal to me.
Schaeffer oil in all my rigs.
Far as lug nuts go… if you’re under torque you could be causing issues there. Too much strain on the studs not sure if the wheels are hub centric, but if they’re not (and supposed to be) then being under torque will also cause issues. Being at torque spec is your best bet for seating the wheel to the hub the way the factory intended. Also if they’re supposed to be hub centric and they aren’t, then getting a hub centric wheel would also be a go-to for reducing strain on the studs. Also being at torque spec would help with them coming loose (unless I misunderstood what you were saying here and you are setting them to 140 ft lbs). Clean bolts/nuts at spec shouldn’t need anything additional to hold tight without issue.
Awesome hearing about the few issues you’ve had with your L5P. Just bought one myself and this makes me feel good about my purchase. Good luck with the motor!
When do you have to slide the B&W hitch back towards the tailgate? Everything you go to fuel up? Looking at getting a 5th wheel and wonder about cab contact during tight turns.
Do you have any no start issues when it rains? I have that issue and I have to wait 10 minutes before it starts
Got a Ford F-150 with 500,000 miles on it still running strong didn't lose oil pressure it's just a 2001 and it'll run for another half a million
Was watching an older one when you were discussing various topics and you were talking about weights and the magic 26000. You didn’t mention pin weight at all? With a 16000 lb trailer you would be well over pin weight? What does DOT say about that if anything
I have an l5p that has a hissing noise and spitting oil outside the number 7 injector you reckon it's the oring on the injector?
Did you ever figure out why your truck was intermittently no crank, no start?
My LML just started doing the same thing.
Sometimes just clicks, but then try it a couple more times and it starts. Very aggravating.
Not sure if you got it figured out but when my LML was doing that it was the batteries. It was intermittent.
My oil pressure isn’t much higher if not about the same with a cold start in the summer time. I have 83,000 miles on mine.
Hello sir!!
Hey bud, how are ya
Love the video. Have you had any issues with the dpf or have you ever took it out to clean it? Also do you do fuel additives ?
Thank you! No sir. Dpf is original and never been taken off. I'm sure it needs to be removed and cleaned. I ran hot shots secrets EDT every fill up (106 gallons with aux tank) 3 tanks in a row then swapped to lucas dpf cleaner on the 4th tank then went back to hotshot secret 3 more tanks
👍
Have you ever had the problem with your brake lights staying on after turning your truck off?
I has a tm boom trailer
Your Duramax has treated you like a Toyota does with minimal maintenance
I don’t have time to finish the video right now, but- if you had a “new” tire “break a belt”( internal separation), then you had a defective tire. It wasn’t made correctly.
Sounds like you have improper rim fit on the truck and I would immediately get back to an OE rim and nut pairing. The issue probably started when they overtorqued your studs and stretched your studs, which then continued stretching and that’s why they got loose. Once some studs got loose, that overloads the others and I think you should just replace all the studs on each hub if you’re having issues. Look at the nuts and where the nut bears against each hole to see how they match. Also check the center hole fit to the hub OD.
How frequently did you change your oil ?
I heard him say 8-10k miles in the video. And he said he does 2 quarts of Lucas stabilizer, which seems a lot to me. That can cause a lot higher oil pressure by itself.
Sounds like it was a new guy at the tire shop and he used a impact to tighten your lug nuts..some way to tight some not enough
That's what i believe
I bought a 15 3500 duramax 2 years ago and will never get rid of it. 160k and only replaced starter. The rest of the bs ive replaced is all pollution control.
I would highly recommend putting on a lift pump, either air dog or fass. Will help to significantly prolong the life of the injection pump and injectors
32% idling time is not too bad considering your sleeping in it running heat or a/c at night. And it looks good too. The last good looking design before they made the ugly current day Silverado.
Hey what where the signs on pinion bearing failure? I did a seal 15k miles ago and its leaking again. Worried bearing might be bad.
Fluids clean and no noise. Just curious what led to yours being replaced
Noticed the pinion seal was wet seeping. then on the same trip a humm that turned into a wine when driving and either coasting along or slowing down from highway speeds. Was pretty much roaring all time by the time i got it home. It very well could be. If the bearing is worn it can cause the seal to leak
@CFarmer thank you for the reply. Mines Still quite. Just didn't want to throw another seal at it if I have bigger issues.
Best of luck looking forward to the next video
Thank you, Good luck with it
Hey there!
We're quite interested in your posting content. We have some car related items. Do you accept sponsored products?
i bet Banks Power wants to know what failed in it.
See Dave in Utah monster engines
I wonder if you put mystik oil in there would it be better for the engine my dad Cummings he put it in there and they test the engine and they got better numbers out of just changing the oil because the one you use everyone uses I feel like that what the company got the deals on that oil but the Cummings is dump truck
Ya until you can’t fined parts anymore for the older trucks due to the EPA. The EPA is going to push you into a new truck. But I have family that has the new 2022 and one just got a new 2023 L5P and they love it. They also like having the 10 speed transmission win they are pulling.
I agree, parts are dwindling down. Eventually they want us all leasing electric. That's awesome. I hear good things about the 10 speed. The people i know who have it love it
How many hours are on the engine?
I believe he said 14,000 hours.
Why were you using 2 quarts of lucas oil stabilizer? Two quarts is 20% of your oil and that stuff is like 90weight. You should only use that if you have a leaking main seal to get you by. That might be why your oil pump took a crap. Your engine oil should only be a 15 weight when cold. 15w-40….not 35w-65 with the lucas. And just a small fwiw because i have studied oil until my eyes bled….you can switch any brand, any type at any time….just stay with the recommended weight. You engine cannot be harmed in anyway by using different additive packages, which is the only difference in the off the shelf oils. If you switch to ester based or pao’s, your engine would be much better off.
Agree. I do think his oil pump was overstressed from pumping that overly thick oil.
@johnsmith-…absolutely. I worked on 18 wheelers for long time and when we had a leaky seal we would add one gallon of lucas to a 6NZ cat engine that held 15 gallons of oil. He should be adding ounces instead of quarts. Why is he using it anyway. That product is for engines that have problems, not good leak free engines. That stuff has an additive that softens seals so you only use it if your engine is leaking or on its last leg.
Next engine Run T6 or whatever Synthetic motor oil. It is SIGNIFICANTLY better than organic oil. You'll see the 1 Million Miles you want, with ease
It's funny how you're like 2016 or under because "emmissions". We said in 14-15 2008 or earlier...in 07 we said 04...Yada Yada yada...71 or earlier. In 10 years the 2024's will be the "simple" engines.
That's true. Every year we are programmed a little further out of our own property. As long as there are parts for older trucks i caint see me buying another vehicle 2017 or newer. The engines are all pretty simple it's the programming that I'm against. Kinda like buying a house and being told it's mine but i caint use the living room.
@@CFarmerjust because you can't trace some extra wiring and don't understand programming doesn't mean it's bad. Lmls are a way worse platform than l5p. And 500k miles is helluve mileage nothing to be complaining about. The 2024s aren't that much more complicated. Similar just locked down ecm again in tuning regards. Just like these were back in 2017
I believe that you are having a low oil pressure condition because your main bearings are thin. The Duramax has a pretty stout oil pump.
First!! Yes!!
Good chance it’s just the sending unit.
15000 isn’t too much idling my caprice has 16k hours with 90k miles
LKQ
Rings
My only issue with gm is crappy plastic parts. Door handles, dash boards all that kind of stuff. Ford is a superior product when it comes to trim.
Agree on that have 2012 f250 panels and dash are solid , thinking about getting same 2500 truck used , will pull all the door panels put kilmat in doors and felt tape between plastic parts and really helps , just did my 2003 escursion it’s silent now
See post above where guy says his power stroke averages 8000 per year in repairs and maintenance
Do you miss RV hauling yet ???
Not many people doing what you used to....RV business hauling...
Ur truck deleted? I kno these new ones we cant do it its illegal now these days. Not sure when the law took effect
Look at his exhaust def is.
It's always been illegal to delete, they just actually started enforcing the law a couple years ago.
Spun bearings
No; failed oil pump. Probably due to running 2 quarts of Lucas all the time.
And iam worried about 150 on mine lol guess i shouldnt
Spun a bearing
I think mine needs a new motor at 61,000. Chevy is trash!
5 engines and 7 transmissions later 😂
kinda worrys me. my 06 lbz has 600k and still no need for motor work. wish they made them like they should. the l5p is a beast but man it should last longer :(
Do you use fuel or oil additives? If so, what do you recommend?