I watched about 20 of these door installation videos. This was by far the best and most informative. Really liked the jamb-side sheathing trick. I will be doing this later this week. Thanks for the help.
First rate job on the door but you know as a former SWAT Officer that simply breaking on glass pane or a good kick and that door is open exposing contents. I like solid hardwood doors with HD deadbolts.
I hear ya. I spent 15 yrs in law enforcement my self on a task force and the good burglars do their homework and if they want in they are coming in. If I was building in areas where I worked in law enforcement I would use a solid steel door with a barrel hole for my gun to stick through. 😂
@@Riley_rolo they make steel security shutters that offer impact resistance or more. And windows that are impact resistance etc. but all is quiet expensive. Best to have sensors on all doors & windows as a supplement. I had a former police trained Rottweiler and he caught two crooks who were pros that came in their window. The were relieved with the cops came to arrest them as the dog was removed.
I’m thinking about putting 1/4” steel plate on heavy duty 1” round stock hinge pins on the inside that I can close up against my interior doors. But my wife only lets me think about it..
I've seen countless places (despite Typar refuting this in their install instructions) that you shouldn't bring any housewrap into the rough openings, and flash the entire RO instead, overlapping to the outside and cut your housewrap 2" from the RO and have the flashing overlap that, then sealant the interior and not exterior to allow water to dry and drain to the outside. Any thoughts??
I build in Iowa but we have a builders network that is growing everyday. We design barndominiums all over the country email us at design@mrpostframe.com if you want more information.
How much of a jamb extension are having to use with "that" door,...which I think is a typical unit from a lumber yard? Can you order them with a wider jamb for a post frame? Windows too?
For interior and exterior girts you need an 8.5” jamb. The doors are more expensive this way, but If you have a door that opens up into a 90 degree wall or a door with sidelights you don’t necessarily need the extended jamb as the door will open fine with 6 9/16 jamb thickness which is a standard door for a lot of places.
What length fasteners did you use for each step. If you don't mind. Also, if I'm trying to replace the brick mold what length fastener would u recommend for that.
The screws that go into the hinges usually come with the door. For the rest, a good 3"-3.5" screw would probably work in most scenarios. For the brickmold measure it's thickness and add another inch or so. 2.5" brads or finish nails would probably work fine.
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I watched about 20 of these door installation videos. This was by far the best and most informative. Really liked the jamb-side sheathing trick. I will be doing this later this week. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for your video I have learned so much by watching your video
Excellent idea on jamb-side prep.
Thanks for watching!
Great instructional video! Thank you, sir!
When will these doors be discontinued?
First rate job on the door but you know as a former SWAT Officer that simply breaking on glass pane or a good kick and that door is open exposing contents. I like solid hardwood doors with HD deadbolts.
I hear ya. I spent 15 yrs in law enforcement my self on a task force and the good burglars do their homework and if they want in they are coming in. If I was building in areas where I worked in law enforcement I would use a solid steel door with a barrel hole for my gun to stick through. 😂
What about the windows?
@@Riley_rolo they make steel security shutters that offer impact resistance or more. And windows that are impact resistance etc. but all is quiet expensive. Best to have sensors on all doors & windows as a supplement. I had a former police trained Rottweiler and he caught two crooks who were pros that came in their window. The were relieved with the cops came to arrest them as the dog was removed.
I’m thinking about putting 1/4” steel plate on heavy duty 1” round stock hinge pins on the inside that I can close up against my interior doors. But my wife only lets me think about it..
How about foam to fill the gaps between frame and stud?
Great video, but i noticed you used a wooden shim at the bottom on a concrete slab, wouldnt it just rot out over time? 10:19
I've seen countless places (despite Typar refuting this in their install instructions) that you shouldn't bring any housewrap into the rough openings, and flash the entire RO instead, overlapping to the outside and cut your housewrap 2" from the RO and have the flashing overlap that, then sealant the interior and not exterior to allow water to dry and drain to the outside. Any thoughts??
Mmm. Grinding concrete with no respirator. Silicosis fun fun fun!
You missed showing how you placed the j-trim. So sad that part is not in your video
It was a pretty good install but why do you have to use the drill to hold the door open
What was the black tape that was put on the top and bottom of the door?
I love your videos. Where do you do your builds? I'm potentially looking to build one in North West Arkansas area /Fort Smith.
I build in Iowa but we have a builders network that is growing everyday. We design barndominiums all over the country email us at design@mrpostframe.com if you want more information.
If I want the door trim to be different, after installation can I remove this brick mold?
What about sill pan flushing??
You don’t install it before door installation??
How much of a jamb extension are having to use with "that" door,...which I think is a typical unit from a lumber yard? Can you order them with a wider jamb for a post frame? Windows too?
For interior and exterior girts you need an 8.5” jamb. The doors are more expensive this way, but If you have a door that opens up into a 90 degree wall or a door with sidelights you don’t necessarily need the extended jamb as the door will open fine with 6 9/16 jamb thickness which is a standard door for a lot of places.
I like you using ear protection but, you don't use a quality dust mask while grinding the concrete.
I noticed the same thing as well
What mask did he use?
What length fasteners did you use for each step. If you don't mind. Also, if I'm trying to replace the brick mold what length fastener would u recommend for that.
The screws that go into the hinges usually come with the door. For the rest, a good 3"-3.5" screw would probably work in most scenarios. For the brickmold measure it's thickness and add another inch or so. 2.5" brads or finish nails would probably work fine.
I would have cut jam side plywood a 1/4-1/2”short.
Stop moisturizer wicking.
what do you do with a exterior wall that's 8.5" deep? (outside and inside girts plut 6" posts. No one makss a door jam that big?
We order most of our doors with an extended jam.
What product are you using under the threshold to seal it??
That’s Zip systems tape.
❤❤❤❤❤💯💯💯💯💯
I had an exterior door installed by a dide that did an absolute shit job now it keaks at the bottom into the house 😑😞
U make no mention of type of screw or length of screw???
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