Better off buying from local tool supply business. Much easier to deal with if there's problems and usually as affordable as Amazon. Plus they have people with working knowledge of the equipment. I do not understand why people order stuff from Amazon and wait for a couple of days when you can get what you need and have the job done in a couple of hours! If you need tools for your work you simply can't afford that much time waiting for the tool. What little money you save isn't worth how much you lost in down time waiting. Plus buying local really does make a difference in your local economy. The commercial contractors around here all have accounts with local suppliers. My experience in farming, construction and manufacturing is that if a tool breaks and a new one is needed time is of the essence!!
I am about to be a first-time homeowner and thought about all kinds of projects for the back and front yard, even a backyard kitchen, play, and gazebo area combined more or less, still working out how to do that without making a whole other building. The idea is just making a fun and comfortable place for the summer and fall months.
I found this channel a few days a go and I have faith in you tube again, i have not stopped watching untill i finished all the videos. Best wishes from Húsavík Iceland
These types of videos are so helpful to people like me who really want to know. I'm a 70 year old woman who really wishes I could have been a carpenter. I'm having a heck of a time right now trying to use my router to make the proper holes for the Soss hinges I bought for my hidden bookcase. I'm about to give up because although the Soss hinge is wonderful for a hidden bookcase, they are not the easiest for me to figure out. So, keep up the great work. I only wish you would make even MORE videos so I wouldn't have to wait so long to see the next one! :-)
FYI: 18 and 20 volts are exactly the same. 20V is just marketing speak, appealing to those folks that think higher always equals better. Same goes for 10.8 and 12 volts, and (kinda) for 36 and 40 volts. I know that Makita brands their 36V batteries and accompanying tools as 40V, because they already call their 2x18V machines the 36V lineup, I'm not sure if other brands have a similar thing going on. In any case: when you see two tools, one saying 10.8/18/36V, and the other saying 12/20/40V respectively, as long as they both only use 1 battery, the voltage is exactly the same. I can affirm the quality of the 12V Milwaukee tools. I'm a Makita guy myself, but if I couldn't get Makita, I'd 100% go for Milwaukee. Not only do they have quality tools, they also have some nice gadgety tools. Ryobi has a lot of these gadgets too, but Milwaukee is a lot better IMO. About the impacts: They don't necessarily get more power (normal drills actually have more torque usually), they just put a lot less stress on your hand. Where you need a big second handle on a big drill, you can use a big impact driver with one hand. It's comparable to trying to push in a nail with a hammer, or impacting on it (also known as hammering it in). The impact vs the constant force can make a big difference. Impact drivers are worthless on (very) large screws though, no matter how strong your impact driver is, it will not be able to drive a 600mm screw (24" if my conversion is correct), because all the power from the impact is absorbed by the screw flexing along its rotational axis. IMO, you missed the most important part of hand-held circular saws: On which side the blade is. For those who expect to hold the saw with their right hand, it's usually a lot more comfortable to have a saw with the blade on the left. Sadly, most circular saws have the blade on the right for some reason. Other than that: great summary. I don't think you missed anything, and I would indeed call this set the basic set of tools, maybe leaving out the table saw. As always, before buying anything: Check out the options, and do some research. TH-cam is a very good resource, since you can easily see how people test the tools, and then determine if you think that's a fair and repeatable method of testing, but don't rely on people's opinions. Some will say you need to have a 36V drill, because you won't be able to do anything with less, but the reality is that most people will get along with 12V just fine for home use. And like said in the video: Make sure you choose a brand you're going to stick with. So if you're looking at drills, also look at what that brand offers for the next couple of tools you may want to get in the future. There's no use getting into battery eco-system A if only half the tools you want are available in that battery eco-system, unless you know from the start that you don't mind multiple battery eco-systems.
Many thanks for this video--Very relevant and funny, too. You have discussed exactly where a complete beginner needs to start. The tools and equipment!
I still have and use a Craftsman circular saw I bought in 1992. Still works great. A couple years ago I bought a DeWalt 20v set which included a cordless circular saw. It’s convenient to work away from the house but I still love my old saw.
That's funny, cuz I love jigsaws 😂 I definitely understand hating a low quality one though. I was fortunate to get to use an old solid steel corded jigsaw my grandpa gave me before it was stolen. Very well made.
The garage taking over the workshop had me rolling because i can truely relate. I have a 3rd year broke down truck i hade planned on rebuilding until my grandson was born. He takes up a lot of my free time and thats ok. I love the hell out of the little shitbird
Great video. I love hearing everyone’s perspective on what should be your first tools. That guy must be a REALLY good friend to tear your saw up and he’s still your friend.
Most professional tradesmen prefer the 12v over 18v. I use the Milwaukee fuel 12v impact everyday at work. It's my all time favorite driver I couldn't do my job without it.
@Dalton Canterbury the 12v power to weight ratio. It's much lighter/smaller but still has more than enough power to accomplish most jobs. I do maintenance at an apartment complex. It would suck to have to use my 18v tools all day. They feel much heavier in the hand and would weigh down my tool bag also.
@@TheBenjammin I had the same experience when I started fixing up the house. The M18 Fuel Impact and Drill would start weighing a ton after several hours. I use the Occidental Seven Bags, Hip Buddies, and their suspension system too. It still weighed a ton at the end of the day. M12 is the way to go for impact and drill
I worked at a major farm machinery assembling sprayers. The 12 volt is good for small jobs, but the size of the bolts on bigger parts necessitates using 20 volt, mostly DeWalt. We had hundreds of these in 10-12 hours of daily use, sometimes working 5-6 days a week. The newer 20 volt impacts are close to being as strong as professional air tools when tightening large diameter bolts.
At home there are some really hard concrete walls so I bought a 12v drill for all the easy stuff and a cheap bosch corded drill hammer for all the heavy work. Works really good.
I've had my Bosch PST 700 E jigsaw for about 12 years now, and I honestly *love* it. I even use it for things that don't necessary require a jigsaw. It's easy to use, easy to replace the blades, easy to clean and stow, powerful enough for thick oak countertops, and I've never had that issue with dust getting into my face (which is probably a bad thing, because I keep forgetting to put on my safety glasses when I work with it). 😂
I have been using Milwaukee for a few years now and I almost exclusively use my impact drivers for drilling and driving. It is common to find drill bits with the 1/4 drive. In some cases it is harder to find the "traditional" drill bits in the areas I shop.
I have 20V systems... both DeWalt (my every day, day in, day out, heavy duty use) and Ryobi (specialty use, rarely needed - less costly) , but I also love my little Bosch 12V 3/8" cordless drill. It can get into places that the bigger 20Vs can't, even with a small battery attached, and it is so light to carry/use.
Took your advice and actually found a sale w/ 6 Ryobi 18V power tools for $200, including the drill and impact driver. Of course my wife and kids purchased them for me for Father's Day :D
A couple of thoughts… My daughter owns several income properties and I usually do most of the reno work. We discovered impact drivers a couple of years ago and it makes a huge difference. I was relieved to hear that I’m not alone in hating jigsaws. I lost almost all of my power tools in a house fire last year. Fortunately, my daughter has most of same tools. Last summer she bought a new set of 7 Ryobi cordless tools and she gave me her old set. I’m slowly replacing what was lost and this video is very helpful to determine what to buy first.
First and foremost, im sorry to hear about the house fire that destroyed your property and belongings! On the other hand I am happy you and your family are safe! As a contractor myself, I must say that most people are not fans of Jigsaws. They are great for specific purposes but are usually used less often than most other saws. Personally I always use reverse tooth jig blades (helps keep a visible pencil or chalk line as well as not throwing sawdust in my face.) Please forgive me, I am not trying to lecture or be a know it all. Just trying to provide helpful advice
the hammer drill setting is underrated, helps sink tough screws and lags that you're fighting, bought the m18 fuel version and essentially makes it a bigger impact gun
If you need to deal with concrete.. get a proper SDS rotary hammer drill (there are cheap versions). The normal round shank drills that have hammer function rely on a mechanincal cam and impact is low due to lots of inertial mass of the chuck and bit where the SDS has a heavy impact made pneumatically (or mechanically) and the inertia is very low - just the drill bit that slides on the flutes of the SDS. Also round shank drill bits for concrate are rare and low quality (not the masonery bits.. those will chip the tip insert in the first few hits into concrete) while SDS drill bits have thick carbite inserts. And skip the hammer function on the cordless drill, no need for that toy hammer. I live in europe where concrete walls are a thing (real concrete cast in place with rebar inside) so a proper SDS rotary hammer is a must even if you want to hang a picture in the living room. Before i got my sds drill a simple hole in the wall would trash the bearings in the corded non-sds drill i had (600W, decent torque, two grips, hammer function), chip a drill bit, burn the drill bit (because it has high speed needed for wood and steel, not concrete), curse a bit and 1h later i shorten the plugs and shorten the screws to call it a day with the mere 40mm of progress in the concrete if it's not a critical loading anchor. With the sds rotary hammer it's a breeze. 10s and you get a hole done.
@@AsiAzzy Well nowhere did I say concrete, I was referring to LVL construction and stuff but even so, the FUEL hammer drill will handle much more than you think. obviously I wouldn't drill an entire foundation with an 18v (I would probably end it after killing my entire battery collection in 15min) but have absolutely used it successfully to install lags into tough lumber and install a handrail into concrete as well. I own a Bosch HD, I believe the bulldog and it's great but yea was mostly referring to woodworking/construction
Definitely one of your best videos! Well done and well presented. Very valuable information. Especially for this recently retired dentist with way too much time on his hands. I am good with a drill though!!! This video is a keeper for future reference. Thank you!!
I love my Bosch jigsaw. Bought it factory reconditioned from CPO Outlets. Got a great price on the corded saw, bag, and insert. Going from the Ryobi I bought (I immediately went looking for a different saw, I think that says all I need to say), the Bosch was like going from a VW Beetle to a Lexus. I’m no expert, but I’m happy.
While it doesn't fall under tool pursé, a dedicated work bench/table is pretty choice. I've recently upgraded the one I made over a decade ago(which still gets used) for a table I got out of a public school when the world shut down. At least near me, the public schools got rid of all their butcher block tables and replaced them with stainless, and I work for a company that services commercial kitchen equipment. 'Inheriting" a 72"x30"x3" hardwood table with a beefy stainless base that's probably older than my 48 years has been incredible. Several holes drilled through the top and holdfasts have upped my game and speed.
makita has a really nice barrel grip i had gotten, i got the corded version since I carry m18 batteries, but the jig has a knob style top which makes it easier to control the saw
I use Milwaukee and DeWalt cordless tool and after you buy one kit or so and have batteries and a charger you can then buy bare tools and not have a pile of chargers… I must say I do like my Ridgid 10” table saw …. Thanks for your video I’m sure many will find it useful ✌🏼😎🇺🇸
I have both 12v and 18v tools, and 8/10 times I reach for my 12v as they are much lighter, smaller, usually more than powerful enough and easy to pack in a small tool bag with whatever I need for the task. However I really do feel that 12v is a luxury to get if you already have 18v tools simply because they have limitations. For comparison, my 18v drill is according to specs over 3 times stronger than my 12v from the exact same brand. While I love the little guy and use it most of the time, there are tasks I just do not take it to like stirring paint, big drill bits and hole saws, longer lag bolts or even brushes (those for cleaning furniture and car interior). In some cases it - can - do it, but it obviously puts way more strain on the tool than it likes and eats through battery like crazy. And yes I am fully aware that in some niches and professions there is absolutely no reason to bring a big 18v tool, but since this video spesifically was about DIY and such I assume we are talking about general purpose tools for around the house and garage. Get-whatever-can-do-the-most-stuff-for-you kinda deal
How close are the 18v compared to a corded version in power? I found that the corded versions is very cheap and I use them sometimes when I need the extra power. It was also cheaper to get a 12v + corded than the 18v I needed to fit booth. On the hand I now have 2 tools....
The Second you put your hand on that board my stomach dropped just thinking about it! I worked at a place where the butcher cut his fingers off with the band saw…Ahhh I am here trying to get a list for a new home starter kit, I hope to run into more videos like this to help with the list. You and your content are awesome!
Seen plenty of these vids but had to click on Haxman’s version! Been here since a thousand subscribers and watching you rise like a new IPO! Congrats my friend! I’ll be here still when you hit that 1 mill milestone next year lol
A handy trick for a corded jigsaw is to make an extension cord vest. (just feed the cord around the shoulders under the arms) This will prevent almost all of the snags you would otherwise get. Figured that trick out as a kid.
Nicely done, content, points covered, concise delivery (well scripted), list of tools, strengths/pitfalls pretty good. SO true about the Jigsaw! Some jigsaws are better than others for sure.. better power, smoother cut, less vibration, etc. 30 years ago, borrowed a porter cable, and was astounded how well it did at a job my cheapo couldn't do well at all. Very good points about having to work in limited space. About the only things I would add.. as you get more serious about production or large jobs, pneumatic nailers, staplers, and dust collection become LARGE issues in a hurry! I can't afford the rail saw system, but have always had a 8' straightedge. Yes, buy as much saw and rip fence as your budget and space will allow - I could not get away with that short a rip fence.. my 53" is often too short! Still, great job putting this one together.. I will forward it to all beginners I know.. Thanks!!
Thanks for the info! I have every one of those except a track saw and table saw. I don't think I'll ever get a track saw, and not enough room for a table saw unless I build another shed for my growing assortment of DIY and lawn maintenance tools.
Great Video, Thank You. I have grown to love my Black & Decker Matrix 20 Volt Max set up. So fare I have 12 tools in 1. Not heavy duty enough for contractors, but GREAT home DYI.
use to own a home improvement company. Milwaukee makes awesome tools (have a few), they are pro level for sure. But, recently dumped Dewalt cordless for Ridgid cordless. Prices right now are a bit cheaper with sales, and can tell you I'm hooked. Haxman is correct. Just see what brand has more of the tools you need... Automotive and/or Home owner (I'm both). Same battery runs all tools. So just buy bare tools if you already have batteries. Cheaper! Smart!
You showed exactly why my circular saw is cordless. Cutting the cord with the saw =⚡. Circular saw: 2 clamps + 2x4 (preferably planed) = easy straight cuts and portable! Router: A router table is a simple solution of the cord issue for a lot of applications
For me, I went with a drill, circle saw, Jig-Saw, Sander, and most importantly, a Dremel Rotary tool because my thing is fine carving and wood sculpting. Ended up also getting a reciprocating saw to do what chainsaws are too big to do.
Good list of tools! I have just about everything listed but the big ones: milter saw, table saw, and tracksaw. I eventually want a 360 plain laser too but that's going to be a long while before I get one.
I have a Dewalt 20v 4.5 inch saw. It is so awesome and can even cut 2x lumber. So much easier to handle than a 7.25 inch saw. It's a dream for cutting sheet goods. I think it actually might be a great starter saw as it is less intimidating- and more limited in capacity- which might be a good thing starting out.
I watched a vid or yours a (raised bed for $50) that led me to watch a few more. I'm a fan. (and subscribed) I find your video's honest, down to earth, and funny. you keep doing you! Thanks for the great content!
Excellent video, and I completely agree on all points. I recently upgraded my tools to Milwaukee - partially based on the opinions you gave about them in a past video.
@@HAXMAN btw, I just recently found your channel and have been binging your videos on work breaks and whatnot. Also btw, there's a new movie on Netflix called "The Mitchells vs The Machines" where the dad uses (and is kinda obsessed with) a Robertson head non-slip screwdriver - it cracked me up cuz I immediately thought of you haha. The movie's pretty great too. Anyway, great job and love the channel!
At work we try to use a impact driver for everything. Never use a drill unless the bit doesn’t have the impact connection. We use dewalt 20v. Both of our drills barely work for some reason, impacts work great.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses with a mitre saw. Last year I didn’t follow my own advice and was trimming some boards, a freak breeze blew a 1”x1.25”x8” offcut back into the spinning blade, the offcut got picked up and thrown directly into my right eye at over 140mph. The fact that I still have an eye is amazing, the doctors said that if the piece was thinner it would’ve taken out my eye and impacted my brain.
Yeah same happen to me but I was lucky it got stuck into the blade but I got a serious case of kick back and the baseboard whipped my finger giving me a bad bruise I felt for 2 weeks…. If it didn’t get stuck it would have flown to my face. I wear glasses now
@@marlonestrella8105 I can say from my experience that you did get extremely lucky. The final piece of paint/wood finally migrated out of my eye 12 months after the injury. Until that piece left if a light source was at a specific angle that one eye would get a light flare up inside it due to reflection. That whole experience was all around horrible
@@SKPhoto816 damn…. Sorry to hear that…. Kick backs are no joke… did you upgrade the throat plate for zero clearance on your miter saw? I get anxious when I see you tubers who’s using power tools without safety equipment on…. People who don’t use glasses and riving knife on their tableaws irks me the most
@@marlonestrella8105 yep, I did a custom zero clearance to avoid further risk and give me cleaner cuts. During the day of my accident I was wearing safety glasses, I took them off because they got too fogged up and made one more cut like an idiot. Now if they fog I stop working with the power tools and do something else
Black Friday is a ways a way, but I always see them cheaper around that time. You can get away without a table saw for almost any project, let me know if you need help.
Hey Adam! I bought the DeWalt 20v hammer drive drill that came with an impact driver almost 8 years ago. I thought the driver was a waste since I had a drill, but boy was I wrong. The impact driver is my go-to tool more than any other. I use it several times a week and the original 3amp batteries are still going strong! You know what tool I bought that I hate? One of those roto-zip things for cutting drywall around outlets. I gave it away and bought a cordless oscillating multi-tool. Love it!
Yes those multi tools can be a lifesaver. When I used to install cabinets in existing homes I had to remove baseboard to cut it. When they came out with those multitools I could just cut out the section I needed removed. HUGE timesaver. Thanks Ed!
@@HireMichaelEverson True, with how expensive wood is I try to focus on quality builds at a discounted price on my channel. Some are even free or close to it using scrap lumper.
Great video 👍🏻 I've 7/8 of those tools so guess I'll have to order a track saw immediately. The impact driver gets used all the time - like you point out the socket attachment is v handy.
I would add a angle grinder, recip saw, and not to forget a good shop vac to not only help clean but to hook up to miter/table saws and sanders to keep dust down. And keep in mind your budget vs usage, nothing worse than spending big $$ on something that will sit in a cabinet or buying low quality that will wear out and force you to prematurely replace, while I do recommend the mid to high end tools remember the old saying “you’ll get more done with a shop full of lower quality tools that 1 expensive tool”, also check around as you can find barely used quality tools at a good price.
Been following you since beginning of pandemic - always funny, useful and interesting videos from you! One of the things I like is your tolerance of the happy accident or interesting mistake, just like WE ALL make. The journey is what its about, right? Just jump in and hang on! Thanks much.
New Bosch jigsaw is a tank. Great tool. My miter is actually a 12 inch HF. Needed some tuning and adjusting but works great for what I need. Great video.
Something I would like to point out is that all the tools that have 20v max in them are not 20v but rather 18v, the 20v is just max battery voltage at full and under no load, but it drops down to 18v when using it. That also means the 18v tools are technically all 20v max as well, but they are advertising it how it would function under normal circumstances.
Some brands says 20V like Dewalt because Milwaukee patented the "18V"! So to avoid paying royalty to Milwaukee, some brands just label theirs as 20v instead. And who says I can't user impact driver to drill? I find that I use impact drivers more than the drill. It's smaller, shorter, and just 1 tool. The bits are easier to insert and remove too. So as long as the holes are 1/4" or less, I just use the impact driver for everything, drill, then drive screws into them.
@@1tuyenp That's not true, at all. Dewalt originally had 18v tools when their batteries were NiCad and had the battery slide up into the grip, but they changed to 20v Max when going Li-Ion to avoid confusion. Milwaukee patented Li-Ion technology, so it doesn't matter if dewalt used 18, 20, or any other voltage, they would still need to pay some royalties. Bosch, Makita, Metabo HPT, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Skil are all brands I can think of that use the 18v denomination and not 20v; even dewalt uses 18v still in Europe and a few other places because they can't advertise max voltage when the battery is only 20v at full charge and no load. Nobody said anything about drills or impacts as well, they make impact rated drill bits for that very reason.
@@tylerperlenfein I have Dewalt 18v Lithium-ion battery tools that I still use. Milwaukee sued Makita Snap-on and other smaller tool makers. But they never sued Bosch or Dewalt. TTI makes Milwaukee, Ridgid and Ryobi tools. That's why those tools are 18v. Those smaller tool makers like Snap-on lost the patent suit to Milwaukee must have an agreement with Milwaukee, so their tools are 18v as well. Stantley Black and Decker makes Dewalt, MasterCraft, Black and Decker, Porter Cable. They were not sued by Milwaukee and probably did not have an agreement with Milwaukee, So those tools are marketed as 20v. I don't know much about Europe or if Milwaukee's patents are valid in Europe. So I'll pass that on.
@@1tuyenp The battery related patents that Milwaukee hold are related to Lithium based battery packs, there is no mention of voltage because they can't patent a voltage level that a battery operates at. The suit you are talking about also only mentions lithium based batteries, not the voltage. The original batteries that Milwaukee produced as Li-Ion were V28, so once again voltage was not at all a deciding factor in this. Ridgid even filed a suit against Milwaukee despite both being TTI products, so that argument doesn't really hold up that well. Makita and Hitachi both settled out of court, but Bosch was never sued (unless the place I am looking missed the records of it happening) yet they still make 18v tools. Milwaukee also makes 12v tools, but so does DeWalt, and DeWalt hasn't been forced to change the voltage of those tools. I really don't know where you came to the conclusion that Milwaukee owns an 18v patent when that has never been a thing they had nor can you really patent a voltage, especially considering voltage changes with charge, temperature, the load it is connected to, etc. They own a lithium pack patent, you can even look it up with a 1 minute search and read that it in no way mentions voltage, DeWalt only went 20v to differentiate between new tools and old tools that used a different connector type.
Lately I have been purchasing 12 volt sub compact cordless/brushless tools. For most projects they are more than adequate. I do have higher volt cordless tools when the project needs more umph. Read up on tool performance and you'll be pleasantly surprised!
The problem with Trim routers is they only take 1/4 inch bits (at least as far as I have seen). Most full size routers will take a 1/4 and 1/2 inch bit. You just have to swap out the collet. I would definitely recommend buying a full sized router that takes 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits over the trim router as a first router. There are a lot of router bits that you can only get at 1/2 inch, so it will save you money in the long run. Small table saws are good for small jobs. Cutting that large sheet of plywood on that small saw is one of the stupidest things I have ever seen. It's a great way to get seriously injured. Use a track saw for that if you don't have a full sized table saw. Speaking of getting injured, never cut wood like this. 17:29 Narrow strips of wood.. well any wood really, should never be cut freehand on a table saw. If that wood goes out of square with that blade it can bind up and that saw will throw it back in your face, possibly killing you. When cutting narrow pieces of wood like this, use a miter gauge and never have the end up against the fence like that. You are just asking for serious injuries. And, before anyone says "I've been doing this for XXX years and never had a problem", there are a lot of people who say the same thing after losing a finger of even worse injuries caused by ignoring safety. remember, a table saw can launch a piece of wood through a wall and anything in between it and the wall, including you.
Would like to get your opinion on the 24v Flex Power Tools ( if you have one) & would love to see your build on a set of cornhole boards! Thanks for your time
If you're doing demo of any kind, the reciprocating saw pays for itself on Day 1. Cuts through wood, nails, plastic, metal pipe, drywall, etc. Saves a lot of wear and tear on your body. Best 150 bucks you'll ever spend.
I have links for the tools I use in the video description guys. Here is the M12 combo I highly recommend: amzn.to/3sJ385f Thanks for watching!
In USA for 219$ and UK 529£!
Fix the cord on that DeWalt jigsaw saw. Circular saw too.
Milwaukee is the best.
Better off buying from local tool supply business. Much easier to deal with if there's problems and usually as affordable as Amazon. Plus they have people with working knowledge of the equipment. I do not understand why people order stuff from Amazon and wait for a couple of days when you can get what you need and have the job done in a couple of hours! If you need tools for your work you simply can't afford that much time waiting for the tool. What little money you save isn't worth how much you lost in down time waiting. Plus buying local really does make a difference in your local economy. The commercial contractors around here all have accounts with local suppliers. My experience in farming, construction and manufacturing is that if a tool breaks and a new one is needed time is of the essence!!
FINALLY! Someone who explains WITHOUT talking too much. I aspire to learn woodworking(i know nothing about it) and this is a good start. Thanks. 💯 👍🏽
I am about to be a first-time homeowner and thought about all kinds of projects for the back and front yard, even a backyard kitchen, play, and gazebo area combined more or less, still working out how to do that without making a whole other building. The idea is just making a fun and comfortable place for the summer and fall months.
I told my husband I want a new drill and a new sander, this video will help pick the right ones. Thank you.
Awesome!
Good idea, now you just need some inspirational building videos with easy to follow instructions. Happy building!
I found this channel a few days a go and I have faith in you tube again, i have not stopped watching untill i finished all the videos. Best wishes from Húsavík Iceland
Thanks so much!
You look like a modern day WOLVERINE! Glad I found your channel.
😄 Time for a haircut
@@HAXMAN Nice work on your channel. Very creative.
But wolverine is modern...
But sounds like John C Riley when he talks
😬🤭
This channel is exactly what I needed now that I'm starting to build a few small things. Coming from zero experience, I appreciate this channel a lot.
What brand did you end up choosing?
@@marlonestrella8105 Ended up going with Milwaukee
These types of videos are so helpful to people like me who really want to know. I'm a 70 year old woman who really wishes I could have been a carpenter. I'm having a heck of a time right now trying to use my router to make the proper holes for the Soss hinges I bought for my hidden bookcase. I'm about to give up because although the Soss hinge is wonderful for a hidden bookcase, they are not the easiest for me to figure out. So, keep up the great work. I only wish you would make even MORE videos so I wouldn't have to wait so long to see the next one! :-)
Thank you so much for the kind words. It’s awesome to hear that you are working on projects like that!
I'm almost 60 and have been a tool girl all my life! Lol!
I’ve been using my impact driver to drill holes for years. It works great.
FYI: 18 and 20 volts are exactly the same. 20V is just marketing speak, appealing to those folks that think higher always equals better. Same goes for 10.8 and 12 volts, and (kinda) for 36 and 40 volts. I know that Makita brands their 36V batteries and accompanying tools as 40V, because they already call their 2x18V machines the 36V lineup, I'm not sure if other brands have a similar thing going on. In any case: when you see two tools, one saying 10.8/18/36V, and the other saying 12/20/40V respectively, as long as they both only use 1 battery, the voltage is exactly the same.
I can affirm the quality of the 12V Milwaukee tools. I'm a Makita guy myself, but if I couldn't get Makita, I'd 100% go for Milwaukee. Not only do they have quality tools, they also have some nice gadgety tools. Ryobi has a lot of these gadgets too, but Milwaukee is a lot better IMO.
About the impacts: They don't necessarily get more power (normal drills actually have more torque usually), they just put a lot less stress on your hand. Where you need a big second handle on a big drill, you can use a big impact driver with one hand. It's comparable to trying to push in a nail with a hammer, or impacting on it (also known as hammering it in). The impact vs the constant force can make a big difference. Impact drivers are worthless on (very) large screws though, no matter how strong your impact driver is, it will not be able to drive a 600mm screw (24" if my conversion is correct), because all the power from the impact is absorbed by the screw flexing along its rotational axis.
IMO, you missed the most important part of hand-held circular saws: On which side the blade is. For those who expect to hold the saw with their right hand, it's usually a lot more comfortable to have a saw with the blade on the left. Sadly, most circular saws have the blade on the right for some reason.
Other than that: great summary. I don't think you missed anything, and I would indeed call this set the basic set of tools, maybe leaving out the table saw.
As always, before buying anything: Check out the options, and do some research. TH-cam is a very good resource, since you can easily see how people test the tools, and then determine if you think that's a fair and repeatable method of testing, but don't rely on people's opinions. Some will say you need to have a 36V drill, because you won't be able to do anything with less, but the reality is that most people will get along with 12V just fine for home use.
And like said in the video: Make sure you choose a brand you're going to stick with. So if you're looking at drills, also look at what that brand offers for the next couple of tools you may want to get in the future. There's no use getting into battery eco-system A if only half the tools you want are available in that battery eco-system, unless you know from the start that you don't mind multiple battery eco-systems.
Many thanks for this video--Very relevant and funny, too.
You have discussed exactly where a complete beginner needs to start. The tools and equipment!
I still have and use a Craftsman circular saw I bought in 1992. Still works great. A couple years ago I bought a DeWalt 20v set which included a cordless circular saw. It’s convenient to work away from the house but I still love my old saw.
That's funny, cuz I love jigsaws 😂
I definitely understand hating a low quality one though. I was fortunate to get to use an old solid steel corded jigsaw my grandpa gave me before it was stolen. Very well made.
The garage taking over the workshop had me rolling because i can truely relate. I have a 3rd year broke down truck i hade planned on rebuilding until my grandson was born. He takes up a lot of my free time and thats ok. I love the hell out of the little shitbird
YESSS!! FILTHY, FILTHY PHILLIPS!! Oh Robertson, the only bit I allow on my job site. Thank you.
Great video. I love hearing everyone’s perspective on what should be your first tools. That guy must be a REALLY good friend to tear your saw up and he’s still your friend.
And a bandsaw and a scroll saw. And a lathe is useful too. great video, thank you for showing this.
A lathe is probably one of the least useful tools for starting out in woodworking.
Most professional tradesmen prefer the 12v over 18v. I use the Milwaukee fuel 12v impact everyday at work. It's my all time favorite driver I couldn't do my job without it.
@Dalton Canterbury the 12v power to weight ratio. It's much lighter/smaller but still has more than enough power to accomplish most jobs. I do maintenance at an apartment complex. It would suck to have to use my 18v tools all day. They feel much heavier in the hand and would weigh down my tool bag also.
@@TheBenjammin I had the same experience when I started fixing up the house. The M18 Fuel Impact and Drill would start weighing a ton after several hours. I use the Occidental Seven Bags, Hip Buddies, and their suspension system too. It still weighed a ton at the end of the day. M12 is the way to go for impact and drill
I worked at a major farm machinery assembling sprayers. The 12 volt is good for small jobs, but the size of the bolts on bigger parts necessitates using 20 volt, mostly DeWalt. We had hundreds of these in 10-12 hours of daily use, sometimes working 5-6 days a week. The newer 20 volt impacts are close to being as strong as professional air tools when tightening large diameter bolts.
At home there are some really hard concrete walls so I bought a 12v drill for all the easy stuff and a cheap bosch corded drill hammer for all the heavy work. Works really good.
I've had my Bosch PST 700 E jigsaw for about 12 years now, and I honestly *love* it. I even use it for things that don't necessary require a jigsaw. It's easy to use, easy to replace the blades, easy to clean and stow, powerful enough for thick oak countertops, and I've never had that issue with dust getting into my face (which is probably a bad thing, because I keep forgetting to put on my safety glasses when I work with it). 😂
Bosch tools are so strong and reliable. I've used every name brand tool and they don't stand up to Bosch.
Impact driver is totally essential, especially when they come in combos with drills. Can even buy a chuck for impacts.
Awesome! Haven’t bought any power tools yet but planning on doing so when I move out. Now I know where to start!
I have been using Milwaukee for a few years now and I almost exclusively use my impact drivers for drilling and driving. It is common to find drill bits with the 1/4 drive. In some cases it is harder to find the "traditional" drill bits in the areas I shop.
Great video! That crosscut on the table saw using the fence will give me nightmares though. Glad I found your channel!
I have 20V systems... both DeWalt (my every day, day in, day out, heavy duty use) and Ryobi (specialty use, rarely needed - less costly) , but I also love my little Bosch 12V 3/8" cordless drill. It can get into places that the bigger 20Vs can't, even with a small battery attached, and it is so light to carry/use.
I watched the video with joy. He's so funny!
Informative
Took your advice and actually found a sale w/ 6 Ryobi 18V power tools for $200, including the drill and impact driver. Of course my wife and kids purchased them for me for Father's Day :D
Awesome!
Just got the same set for 150! Got lucky
A couple of thoughts…
My daughter owns several income properties and I usually do most of the reno work. We discovered impact drivers a couple of years ago and it makes a huge difference.
I was relieved to hear that I’m not alone in hating jigsaws.
I lost almost all of my power tools in a house fire last year. Fortunately, my daughter has most of same tools. Last summer she bought a new set of 7 Ryobi cordless tools and she gave me her old set. I’m slowly replacing what was lost and this video is very helpful to determine what to buy first.
First and foremost, im sorry to hear about the house fire that destroyed your property and belongings! On the other hand I am happy you and your family are safe!
As a contractor myself, I must say that most people are not fans of Jigsaws. They are great for specific purposes but are usually used less often than most other saws. Personally I always use reverse tooth jig blades (helps keep a visible pencil or chalk line as well as not throwing sawdust in my face.) Please forgive me, I am not trying to lecture or be a know it all. Just trying to provide helpful advice
the hammer drill setting is underrated, helps sink tough screws and lags that you're fighting, bought the m18 fuel version and essentially makes it a bigger impact gun
If you need to deal with concrete.. get a proper SDS rotary hammer drill (there are cheap versions). The normal round shank drills that have hammer function rely on a mechanincal cam and impact is low due to lots of inertial mass of the chuck and bit where the SDS has a heavy impact made pneumatically (or mechanically) and the inertia is very low - just the drill bit that slides on the flutes of the SDS. Also round shank drill bits for concrate are rare and low quality (not the masonery bits.. those will chip the tip insert in the first few hits into concrete) while SDS drill bits have thick carbite inserts.
And skip the hammer function on the cordless drill, no need for that toy hammer.
I live in europe where concrete walls are a thing (real concrete cast in place with rebar inside) so a proper SDS rotary hammer is a must even if you want to hang a picture in the living room.
Before i got my sds drill a simple hole in the wall would trash the bearings in the corded non-sds drill i had (600W, decent torque, two grips, hammer function), chip a drill bit, burn the drill bit (because it has high speed needed for wood and steel, not concrete), curse a bit and 1h later i shorten the plugs and shorten the screws to call it a day with the mere 40mm of progress in the concrete if it's not a critical loading anchor.
With the sds rotary hammer it's a breeze. 10s and you get a hole done.
Uh I don’t think you want to be using a 12v drill to mix concrete lol
@@AsiAzzy Well nowhere did I say concrete, I was referring to LVL construction and stuff but even so, the FUEL hammer drill will handle much more than you think. obviously I wouldn't drill an entire foundation with an 18v (I would probably end it after killing my entire battery collection in 15min) but have absolutely used it successfully to install lags into tough lumber and install a handrail into concrete as well. I own a Bosch HD, I believe the bulldog and it's great but yea was mostly referring to woodworking/construction
@@marlonestrella8105 Who said anything about mixing concrete with a 12v? Who even uses 12v other than electricians lmao
@@blxckleppxrd the person deleted their comment…
Yes, that m12 set is awesome! I use the impact often at work. 👍
I also have a M12 fuel impact and drill. I really appreciate the compact size for working in tight spaces.
Definitely one of your best videos! Well done and well presented. Very valuable information. Especially for this recently retired dentist with way too much time on his hands. I am good with a drill though!!! This video is a keeper for future reference. Thank you!!
Thanks!
I love my Bosch jigsaw. Bought it factory reconditioned from CPO Outlets. Got a great price on the corded saw, bag, and insert. Going from the Ryobi I bought (I immediately went looking for a different saw, I think that says all I need to say), the Bosch was like going from a VW Beetle to a Lexus. I’m no expert, but I’m happy.
I've got an impact driver a few months ago and i just hate myself for not getting it years ago!
Always adding to our tool collection
Always.
Big, little or "multiples".
Not sure I'll ever get a track saw though...
Love your humor and always enjoy your vids. This one is straight up great info for young/new workers.
Thanks so much!
While it doesn't fall under tool pursé, a dedicated work bench/table is pretty choice.
I've recently upgraded the one I made over a decade ago(which still gets used)
for a table I got out of a public school when the world shut down. At least near me, the public schools got rid of all their butcher block tables and replaced them with stainless, and I work for a company that services commercial kitchen equipment.
'Inheriting" a 72"x30"x3" hardwood table with a beefy stainless base that's probably older than my 48 years has been incredible.
Several holes drilled through the top and holdfasts have upped my game and speed.
Per se. Lol
makita has a really nice barrel grip i had gotten, i got the corded version since I carry m18 batteries, but the jig has a knob style top which makes it easier to control the saw
I use Milwaukee and DeWalt cordless tool and after you buy one kit or so and have batteries and a charger you can then buy bare tools and not have a pile of chargers… I must say I do like my Ridgid 10” table saw …. Thanks for your video I’m sure many will find it useful ✌🏼😎🇺🇸
I have both 12v and 18v tools, and 8/10 times I reach for my 12v as they are much lighter, smaller, usually more than powerful enough and easy to pack in a small tool bag with whatever I need for the task. However I really do feel that 12v is a luxury to get if you already have 18v tools simply because they have limitations.
For comparison, my 18v drill is according to specs over 3 times stronger than my 12v from the exact same brand. While I love the little guy and use it most of the time, there are tasks I just do not take it to like stirring paint, big drill bits and hole saws, longer lag bolts or even brushes (those for cleaning furniture and car interior). In some cases it - can - do it, but it obviously puts way more strain on the tool than it likes and eats through battery like crazy.
And yes I am fully aware that in some niches and professions there is absolutely no reason to bring a big 18v tool, but since this video spesifically was about DIY and such I assume we are talking about general purpose tools for around the house and garage. Get-whatever-can-do-the-most-stuff-for-you kinda deal
How close are the 18v compared to a corded version in power? I found that the corded versions is very cheap and I use them sometimes when I need the extra power. It was also cheaper to get a 12v + corded than the 18v I needed to fit booth. On the hand I now have 2 tools....
The Second you put your hand on that board my stomach dropped just thinking about it! I worked at a place where the butcher cut his fingers off with the band saw…Ahhh
I am here trying to get a list for a new home starter kit, I hope to run into more videos like this to help with the list. You and your content are awesome!
Seen plenty of these vids but had to click on Haxman’s version! Been here since a thousand subscribers and watching you rise like a new IPO! Congrats my friend! I’ll be here still when you hit that 1 mill milestone next year lol
Thank you so much!
A handy trick for a corded jigsaw is to make an extension cord vest. (just feed the cord around the shoulders under the arms) This will prevent almost all of the snags you would otherwise get. Figured that trick out as a kid.
I have a festool track saw and I have the 36v Makita track saw and tend to grab the Makita saw.
Nicely done, content, points covered, concise delivery (well scripted), list of tools, strengths/pitfalls pretty good. SO true about the Jigsaw! Some jigsaws are better than others for sure.. better power, smoother cut, less vibration, etc. 30 years ago, borrowed a porter cable, and was astounded how well it did at a job my cheapo couldn't do well at all. Very good points about having to work in limited space. About the only things I would add.. as you get more serious about production or large jobs, pneumatic nailers, staplers, and dust collection become LARGE issues in a hurry! I can't afford the rail saw system, but have always had a 8' straightedge. Yes, buy as much saw and rip fence as your budget and space will allow - I could not get away with that short a rip fence.. my 53" is often too short!
Still, great job putting this one together.. I will forward it to all beginners I know.. Thanks!!
I have a cordless Ryobi circular saw and I love it.
Superb vlog brother Stay blessed always
Great stuff Adam. Must say, you're camera work and editing gives me something to aspire to!
Thank you so much! I appreciate that!
Great video! Thanks for the clear and concise explanation of tools.
Thanks for the info! I have every one of those except a track saw and table saw. I don't think I'll ever get a track saw, and not enough room for a table saw unless I build another shed for my growing assortment of DIY and lawn maintenance tools.
Great Video, Thank You. I have grown to love my Black & Decker Matrix 20 Volt Max set up. So fare I have 12 tools in 1. Not heavy duty enough for contractors, but GREAT home DYI.
Love that your channel has really taken off! Enjoy the videos as well, sir
Thank you very much!
use to own a home improvement company. Milwaukee makes awesome tools (have a few), they are pro level for sure. But, recently dumped Dewalt cordless for Ridgid cordless. Prices right now are a bit cheaper with sales, and can tell you I'm hooked. Haxman is correct. Just see what brand has more of the tools you need... Automotive and/or Home owner (I'm both). Same battery runs all tools. So just buy bare tools if you already have batteries. Cheaper! Smart!
You showed exactly why my circular saw is cordless. Cutting the cord with the saw =⚡. Circular saw: 2 clamps + 2x4 (preferably planed) = easy straight cuts and portable! Router: A router table is a simple solution of the cord issue for a lot of applications
For me, I went with a drill, circle saw, Jig-Saw, Sander, and most importantly, a Dremel Rotary tool because my thing is fine carving and wood sculpting. Ended up also getting a reciprocating saw to do what chainsaws are too big to do.
Yeah, good call on the dremel. Also, no sawzall?
Recips are great for branches and tree roots too! No worry about ruining your chainsaw blades.
Fyi 3d printers have helped a lot with the battery mismatch issue you can print adapters for alot of batteries to adapt them to other brands
Cool. I didn't know that. I have a 3d printer.
Amazing video! Thanks man! Very informative and easily understood by DIY newbies (like me). 😁👍🏼
Milwaukee earned my money years ago too! Great video!
Good list of tools! I have just about everything listed but the big ones: milter saw, table saw, and tracksaw. I eventually want a 360 plain laser too but that's going to be a long while before I get one.
I have a Dewalt 20v 4.5 inch saw. It is so awesome and can even cut 2x lumber. So much easier to handle than a 7.25 inch saw. It's a dream for cutting sheet goods. I think it actually might be a great starter saw as it is less intimidating- and more limited in capacity- which might be a good thing starting out.
I have the Black and Decker version but can't find any 4.5" blades
I watched a vid or yours a (raised bed for $50) that led me to watch a few more. I'm a fan. (and subscribed) I find your video's honest, down to earth, and funny. you keep doing you! Thanks for the great content!
Thanks for the edgamicashun 🤔 Adam lots of good information have a good weekend ☀️😁👍
Thanks Mitch! You too
Excellent video, and I completely agree on all points. I recently upgraded my tools to Milwaukee - partially based on the opinions you gave about them in a past video.
Awesome. Thanks!
@@HAXMAN btw, I just recently found your channel and have been binging your videos on work breaks and whatnot.
Also btw, there's a new movie on Netflix called "The Mitchells vs The Machines" where the dad uses (and is kinda obsessed with) a Robertson head non-slip screwdriver - it cracked me up cuz I immediately thought of you haha. The movie's pretty great too.
Anyway, great job and love the channel!
@@JustJoshinAround That’s funny. I’ll have to check it out. Thanks again!
@@HAXMAN yup
Festool. A man of culture I see.
At work we try to use a impact driver for everything. Never use a drill unless the bit doesn’t have the impact connection. We use dewalt 20v. Both of our drills barely work for some reason, impacts work great.
I love how much you hate the jigsaw!
Great video. Explained very well.
Thanks!
Your work is beautiful and useful, I hope I am healthy and safe
Currently I got number 1 to 6. I think ill start with working on projects before I will get the bigger tools.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses with a mitre saw. Last year I didn’t follow my own advice and was trimming some boards, a freak breeze blew a 1”x1.25”x8” offcut back into the spinning blade, the offcut got picked up and thrown directly into my right eye at over 140mph. The fact that I still have an eye is amazing, the doctors said that if the piece was thinner it would’ve taken out my eye and impacted my brain.
Yeah same happen to me but I was lucky it got stuck into the blade but I got a serious case of kick back and the baseboard whipped my finger giving me a bad bruise I felt for 2 weeks…. If it didn’t get stuck it would have flown to my face. I wear glasses now
@@marlonestrella8105 I can say from my experience that you did get extremely lucky. The final piece of paint/wood finally migrated out of my eye 12 months after the injury. Until that piece left if a light source was at a specific angle that one eye would get a light flare up inside it due to reflection. That whole experience was all around horrible
@@SKPhoto816 damn…. Sorry to hear that…. Kick backs are no joke… did you upgrade the throat plate for zero clearance on your miter saw?
I get anxious when I see you tubers who’s using power tools without safety equipment on…. People who don’t use glasses and riving knife on their tableaws irks me the most
@@marlonestrella8105 yep, I did a custom zero clearance to avoid further risk and give me cleaner cuts. During the day of my accident I was wearing safety glasses, I took them off because they got too fogged up and made one more cut like an idiot. Now if they fog I stop working with the power tools and do something else
@@SKPhoto816 have you found a safety glasses that doesn’t fog up yet?
Thanks for the information, very welll done. So far the only regret is I bought a stationary chop ( Miter) saw.
Why is that a regret?
I have recently found your channel and I am in love with it. Keep up the great work.
I've never minded my jigsaw. Works great and doesn't blow dust in my face. I have used it quite a bit for a non- professional
Love the job site table saws.. looking at the Hitachi.. but they went up in price. So still looking...
Black Friday is a ways a way, but I always see them cheaper around that time. You can get away without a table saw for almost any project, let me know if you need help.
Hey Adam! I bought the DeWalt 20v hammer drive drill that came with an impact driver almost 8 years ago. I thought the driver was a waste since I had a drill, but boy was I wrong. The impact driver is my go-to tool more than any other. I use it several times a week and the original 3amp batteries are still going strong! You know what tool I bought that I hate? One of those roto-zip things for cutting drywall around outlets. I gave it away and bought a cordless oscillating multi-tool. Love it!
Yes those multi tools can be a lifesaver. When I used to install cabinets in existing homes I had to remove baseboard to cut it. When they came out with those multitools I could just cut out the section I needed removed. HUGE timesaver. Thanks Ed!
Oscilatting tool. Far by the most used tool in my projects
You inspire me! Thanks for the power tool rundown.
I have exactly the same fuel m12 kit... I used drill I think once... impact is used almost every day for all purposes:))))
Totally agree, The must-have set :D
My dad told me to get a 7 1/4 skihl saw when I started my bar. Absolutely clutch.
Good move, continue to build your tools over the years so you can build amazing things!
@@inspiringbuilds and wood gets cheaper again lol
@@HireMichaelEverson True, with how expensive wood is I try to focus on quality builds at a discounted price on my channel. Some are even free or close to it using scrap lumper.
Awesome, dude has a 100k tool workshop! Thanks for the ideas on what tools to get for home use
And finish.....
Very informative, thanks! The ending as clean cut as the saws you talk about 🤣
Great video 👍🏻 I've 7/8 of those tools so guess I'll have to order a track saw immediately. The impact driver gets used all the time - like you point out the socket attachment is v handy.
The track saw is the only one I don't have and that will continue; I've never felt put out by using a solid(wide) straight edge and clamps.
@@Spthomas47 yea agreed! I trimmed a bunch of fence boards using a 12foot section of d-rail last week. Plus you can never have too many clamps!
@@nathanmcauley121the clamp/clamping options obsession is real hahaha
I would add a angle grinder, recip saw, and not to forget a good shop vac to not only help clean but to hook up to miter/table saws and sanders to keep dust down. And keep in mind your budget vs usage, nothing worse than spending big $$ on something that will sit in a cabinet or buying low quality that will wear out and force you to prematurely replace, while I do recommend the mid to high end tools remember the old saying “you’ll get more done with a shop full of lower quality tools that 1 expensive tool”, also check around as you can find barely used quality tools at a good price.
You can tell by the glove tan lines he means business. Nice video!
Been following you since beginning of pandemic - always funny, useful and interesting videos from you!
One of the things I like is your tolerance of the happy accident or interesting mistake, just like WE ALL make. The journey is what its about, right?
Just jump in and hang on! Thanks much.
Thanks for sticking around!
Awesome vid. You forgot the mini fridge, I think it's the best power tool. That or the plasma cutter. 👍
😁
New Bosch jigsaw is a tank. Great tool. My miter is actually a 12 inch HF. Needed some tuning and adjusting but works great for what I need. Great video.
Great video. Would recommend the angle grinder as a must have and possibly the saber saw.
Something I would like to point out is that all the tools that have 20v max in them are not 20v but rather 18v, the 20v is just max battery voltage at full and under no load, but it drops down to 18v when using it.
That also means the 18v tools are technically all 20v max as well, but they are advertising it how it would function under normal circumstances.
Came to say this. 18v and 20v are the same thing.
Some brands says 20V like Dewalt because Milwaukee patented the "18V"! So to avoid paying royalty to Milwaukee, some brands just label theirs as 20v instead. And who says I can't user impact driver to drill? I find that I use impact drivers more than the drill. It's smaller, shorter, and just 1 tool. The bits are easier to insert and remove too. So as long as the holes are 1/4" or less, I just use the impact driver for everything, drill, then drive screws into them.
@@1tuyenp That's not true, at all. Dewalt originally had 18v tools when their batteries were NiCad and had the battery slide up into the grip, but they changed to 20v Max when going Li-Ion to avoid confusion.
Milwaukee patented Li-Ion technology, so it doesn't matter if dewalt used 18, 20, or any other voltage, they would still need to pay some royalties. Bosch, Makita, Metabo HPT, Ridgid, Ryobi, and Skil are all brands I can think of that use the 18v denomination and not 20v; even dewalt uses 18v still in Europe and a few other places because they can't advertise max voltage when the battery is only 20v at full charge and no load.
Nobody said anything about drills or impacts as well, they make impact rated drill bits for that very reason.
@@tylerperlenfein I have Dewalt 18v Lithium-ion battery tools that I still use. Milwaukee sued Makita Snap-on and other smaller tool makers. But they never sued Bosch or Dewalt. TTI makes Milwaukee, Ridgid and Ryobi tools. That's why those tools are 18v. Those smaller tool makers like Snap-on lost the patent suit to Milwaukee must have an agreement with Milwaukee, so their tools are 18v as well. Stantley Black and Decker makes Dewalt, MasterCraft, Black and Decker, Porter Cable. They were not sued by Milwaukee and probably did not have an agreement with Milwaukee, So those tools are marketed as 20v. I don't know much about Europe or if Milwaukee's patents are valid in Europe. So I'll pass that on.
@@1tuyenp The battery related patents that Milwaukee hold are related to Lithium based battery packs, there is no mention of voltage because they can't patent a voltage level that a battery operates at.
The suit you are talking about also only mentions lithium based batteries, not the voltage. The original batteries that Milwaukee produced as Li-Ion were V28, so once again voltage was not at all a deciding factor in this. Ridgid even filed a suit against Milwaukee despite both being TTI products, so that argument doesn't really hold up that well.
Makita and Hitachi both settled out of court, but Bosch was never sued (unless the place I am looking missed the records of it happening) yet they still make 18v tools.
Milwaukee also makes 12v tools, but so does DeWalt, and DeWalt hasn't been forced to change the voltage of those tools.
I really don't know where you came to the conclusion that Milwaukee owns an 18v patent when that has never been a thing they had nor can you really patent a voltage, especially considering voltage changes with charge, temperature, the load it is connected to, etc. They own a lithium pack patent, you can even look it up with a 1 minute search and read that it in no way mentions voltage, DeWalt only went 20v to differentiate between new tools and old tools that used a different connector type.
Well done presentation. Thank you.
Nice explanation.
Thank you!
you can get a drill chuck for a impact driver and that m12 fuel has a drilling function its sick 👌
Lately I have been purchasing 12 volt sub compact cordless/brushless tools. For most projects they are more than adequate. I do have higher volt cordless tools when the project needs more umph. Read up on tool performance and you'll be pleasantly surprised!
The problem with Trim routers is they only take 1/4 inch bits (at least as far as I have seen). Most full size routers will take a 1/4 and 1/2 inch bit. You just have to swap out the collet. I would definitely recommend buying a full sized router that takes 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits over the trim router as a first router. There are a lot of router bits that you can only get at 1/2 inch, so it will save you money in the long run.
Small table saws are good for small jobs. Cutting that large sheet of plywood on that small saw is one of the stupidest things I have ever seen. It's a great way to get seriously injured. Use a track saw for that if you don't have a full sized table saw.
Speaking of getting injured, never cut wood like this. 17:29 Narrow strips of wood.. well any wood really, should never be cut freehand on a table saw. If that wood goes out of square with that blade it can bind up and that saw will throw it back in your face, possibly killing you. When cutting narrow pieces of wood like this, use a miter gauge and never have the end up against the fence like that. You are just asking for serious injuries.
And, before anyone says "I've been doing this for XXX years and never had a problem", there are a lot of people who say the same thing after losing a finger of even worse injuries caused by ignoring safety. remember, a table saw can launch a piece of wood through a wall and anything in between it and the wall, including you.
Would like to get your opinion on the 24v Flex Power Tools ( if you have one) & would love to see your build on a set of cornhole boards! Thanks for your time
This video was definitely made for me especially the impact driver opening 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Finally a tool show that isn’t a Snap On advertisement!
Good video enjoyed it thx for the info and sharing Be safe God Bless
Thanks, you too!
Thank You, Hax Man!
Blue Bosch Jigsaws is great.
If you're doing demo of any kind, the reciprocating saw pays for itself on Day 1. Cuts through wood, nails, plastic, metal pipe, drywall, etc. Saves a lot of wear and tear on your body. Best 150 bucks you'll ever spend.