I just bought almost this exact same truck (but its white with rubber floors and no power anything) as a driveway plow truck. Im gonna be doing alot of what youve done here. Thanks for sharing.
Should have grinded the rust off 1st and the flares do look sweet, but your just putting a bandaid over a very serious issue for this is not going to stop the rust from spreading and eating it's way through the metal Because I had the same issue with paintballing and rust starting out on the lip of both of my rear fenders of my GMC Sierra And I just used a drill with some nylon grinding pads to get down to the bare metal and make sure that I am rid of all of the rust and then used a degreaser And then I just prime the hell out of it probably about three coats and I acted on it early enough when the rust hadn't come close to eating through the metal so I didn't have to use a filler or Bondo and then I just used a base code after the primer And then I clear coated it and underneath the rear wheel wells I used a rubberized bed coating to seal underneath and it came out pretty good and I could have left it like that, but I'm pretty sure that within three or four years I probably would have started to have the same issue due to the climate that I live in in the fact that it's cold 8 months out of the year and there's always salt on the roads that will just eat up your paint job and that's why after I fixed it I went ahead and put fender flares over it to keep it from happening again because my trucks are really good condition and you want to deal with that problem the right way as soon as possible, so good idea but you missed the most important step which is getting rid of the rust.... Because it's like the plague it will spread until it just becomes too much for you to overcome
Well I fixed all my rust issues by covering it with fender flares because that was the cheapest route every place i went i was told that for a 2000 silverado i would have more Money into fixing it then its worth the cheapest I found was 1,500 a side for the bed fenders then the corner cabs even more because of it being a 3 door model it was another 1,500 for driver side passenger 1,000 and who has 5,500 to put into a 2000 silverado Also the fender flares should have Fender Flare Rubber Seal it fills in the gaps and makes it so the flares won't rub the paint plus helps keep moisture out
No matter what size of fender trim I put on, do I need to take off my stock mud flaps or can the fender trim AND the flaps be on at the same time??? I have a 2000 Silverado extended cab. Please and thanks everybody!
You should look into getting rough country rear fender wells, I tried painting mine and 2 weeks later cleaned with purple power it came right off, and then when I sprayed my bed liner I sprayed the fender wells and it flaked off after 2 or 3 months. I live in Georgia and dont deal with salt so I don't know if i will hold salt and rusted the metal fender wells but the rough contry ones are plastic. Just an idea tho
LiftedorLowered I actually made a video installing those on my other truck about a year ago. I guess I never thought about it since this is supposed to be a winter beater but I should have done those before the fender flares and mud flaps.
LiftedorLowered yeah I love them on my other truck it really cleans up the look of the truck when they're clean. It is supposed to be a beater Haha but I still may do them.
Rob Yeast salvage yard I pulled it out of a truck myself. It is a real pain to get out. The base model trucks I think don't come with them or when people mess with the blower motor they don't put them back.
@@vinnygoombatts1458 yeah a lot of these trucks came from the factory with flares like this and they fit perfectly tight all the way around. You can also buy the OEM ones to put on like this but they are something like $200 a piece. These were around 100 for all 4 I think.
I was wrong, the fronts are about 75 a piece and the rears are about 100 a piece. Not quite as bad as I thought but still a lot of money. I found a set of aftermarket "oem style" on ebay for 50 bucks now so you would be looking at $50 for aftermarket vs. $350 for oem.
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I just bought almost this exact same truck (but its white with rubber floors and no power anything) as a driveway plow truck. Im gonna be doing alot of what youve done here. Thanks for sharing.
To fix the gap issue,,, get some auto body grade adhesive. They type they use on door molding. Use a generous amount and calm it
Lookin better already Ty. Love me some good fixer upper project videos. Can't wait for the next one :)
Nice work man looks mine and my dad have regular cab chevy 4x4 short box and black
Cowboychevy Schneider nice!
Looks awesome, like watching this stuff come together! Keep it up!
Kramer Britton thanks!
This is almost 3 years ago. How are they doing so far? Did they come off or lose?
Awesome truck.Love black.I have 2006 .single cab Red Going 2 put flares on soon
Looks nice good job man. 👌
Should have grinded the rust off 1st and the flares do look sweet, but your just putting a bandaid over a very serious issue for this is not going to stop the rust from spreading and eating it's way through the metal Because I had the same issue with paintballing and rust starting out on the lip of both of my rear fenders of my GMC Sierra And I just used a drill with some nylon grinding pads to get down to the bare metal and make sure that I am rid of all of the rust and then used a degreaser And then I just prime the hell out of it probably about three coats and I acted on it early enough when the rust hadn't come close to eating through the metal so I didn't have to use a filler or Bondo and then I just used a base code after the primer And then I clear coated it and underneath the rear wheel wells I used a rubberized bed coating to seal underneath and it came out pretty good and I could have left it like that, but I'm pretty sure that within three or four years I probably would have started to have the same issue due to the climate that I live in in the fact that it's cold 8 months out of the year and there's always salt on the roads that will just eat up your paint job and that's why after I fixed it I went ahead and put fender flares over it to keep it from happening again because my trucks are really good condition and you want to deal with that problem the right way as soon as possible, so good idea but you missed the most important step which is getting rid of the rust.... Because it's like the plague it will spread until it just becomes too much for you to overcome
Hot tip paint the frame brother!!
Well I fixed all my rust issues by covering it with fender flares because that was the cheapest route every place i went i was told that for a 2000 silverado i would have more Money into fixing it then its worth the cheapest I found was 1,500 a side for the bed fenders then the corner cabs even more because of it being a 3 door model it was another 1,500 for driver side passenger 1,000 and who has 5,500 to put into a 2000 silverado
Also the fender flares should have Fender Flare Rubber Seal it fills in the gaps and makes it so the flares won't rub the paint plus helps keep moisture out
No matter what size of fender trim I put on, do I need to take off my stock mud flaps or can the fender trim AND the flaps be on at the same time??? I have a 2000 Silverado extended cab. Please and thanks everybody!
The wind is going pull those off……
We’re can I get those finder flares for 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 regular cab 4x4 ?
Do the sierra's fender flares match the 2003 yukon xl?
My guess is the flares are all the same for 99-06 full size gm
this is my exact truck. what model # and make of fender flairs, where did you purchase them,
Not sure exactly. Got them off of ebay for like $100 a set. They're oem style textured black.
Will those whee well covers fit a 2002 Yukon xl?
Can I get a link for those exact flares. I'm doing "rust repairs" for my truck too.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F351224695238
Grease the rust up good. Otherwise rust will come thru in a year.
Tell me more about the grease. Just found the start of rust on my 09 chevy 2500hd👎😡
You should look into getting rough country rear fender wells, I tried painting mine and 2 weeks later cleaned with purple power it came right off, and then when I sprayed my bed liner I sprayed the fender wells and it flaked off after 2 or 3 months. I live in Georgia and dont deal with salt so I don't know if i will hold salt and rusted the metal fender wells but the rough contry ones are plastic. Just an idea tho
LiftedorLowered I actually made a video installing those on my other truck about a year ago. I guess I never thought about it since this is supposed to be a winter beater but I should have done those before the fender flares and mud flaps.
Edit, didnt know it was going to be just a beater their $100 which is pretty pricey i did it for looks
LiftedorLowered yeah I love them on my other truck it really cleans up the look of the truck when they're clean. It is supposed to be a beater Haha but I still may do them.
I posted my second comment without seeing that you replied for some reason your reply wasnt showing lol thats odd
LiftedorLowered Haha that's weird seemed like you replied to what I said!
Where did you get the piece that goes under the dash?
Rob Yeast salvage yard I pulled it out of a truck myself. It is a real pain to get out. The base model trucks I think don't come with them or when people mess with the blower motor they don't put them back.
Not bad at all dude if you don't mind me asking did you put the double-sided tape onto the guards or?, does it come with it already on???
The fender flares come with double sided tape. If you're asking about the mud flaps those are just screwed on no tape.
Do you think the extra tape you said you put on, didn't let you have a tighter fit? Like where you said was the worse part.
No I don't think so, it was tight everywhere else. Its just the shape of those cheap aftermarket flares, the OEM ones fit 10x better.
@@TyBrink ok thanks I didn't know they make OEM flares
@@vinnygoombatts1458 yeah a lot of these trucks came from the factory with flares like this and they fit perfectly tight all the way around. You can also buy the OEM ones to put on like this but they are something like $200 a piece. These were around 100 for all 4 I think.
@@TyBrink yikes, I'll stick to the cheap ones for a cheap truck.
I was wrong, the fronts are about 75 a piece and the rears are about 100 a piece. Not quite as bad as I thought but still a lot of money. I found a set of aftermarket "oem style" on ebay for 50 bucks now so you would be looking at $50 for aftermarket vs. $350 for oem.
Hey bud whats your email i need a price on shifter esembly