2003 - 2008 Toyota Matrix Corolla 1ZZ-FE Timing Chain Tensioner DIY using the Toyota FSM Technique
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows the Toyota FSM technique for replacing the Timing Chain Tensioner (and O-ring) on late 1ZZ-FE engines ('03 - '08 Corolla and Matrix). This technique is the most conservative and "fool-proof" method for this repair and requires removing the Valve Cover, which is shown in the video. Check the Pinned Comment or below for more info:
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values:
00:27 Timing Chain Tensioner location and oil leak pattern
01:27 Explanation about the variety of methods for this repair
04:19 Why the Tensioner must be extended properly
05:03 Why some mechanics charge for a Valve Cover job with this repair
05:41 Differences in this video versus some other videos (FSM technique)
09:03 Begin Removal of the Valve Cover, make a bolt template
10:37 Disconnect the electrical connectors for the ignitors
11:48 Remove two fasteners for the electrical harness (10mm)
12:18 Remove four bolts for the ignitors (10mm)
12:39 Remove the ignitors
13:35 Disconnect the breather hose
14:04 Disconnect the hose to the PCV valve
14:44 Locations of the Valve Cover fasteners (ten 10mm, one 12mm)
16:06 Slip the harness off of the three brackets for easier access
17:22 Remove the Valve Cover fasteners
22:17 Tie up the electrical harness for easier access
22:47 Remove the Valve Cover
25:12 Turn the crankshaft clockwise to TDC/Compression (19mm)
27:25 Detailed view of turning clockwise to TDC/Compression
29:02 Detailed view of timing marks
32:04 Demonstration: making another two crank turns to show how the
camshaft timing marks align every other crank rotation
34:03 Clean up the old gasket maker/RTV at two spots on the head
36:31 Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner (two 10mm nuts)
39:26 Don't turn the engine with the Chain Tensioner out
40:02 Chain Tensioner on the bench (Toyota 13540-0D010) and O-ring
(Toyota 90301-22013 or JIS P22.4)
42:12 Remove the old O-ring (if just replacing the O-ring)
42:46 Experiment: I treat the new O-ring with Dow Molykote 55 O-ring
grease
43:25 Install new O-ring to the Chain Tensioner (use a sleeve if possible)
44:54 Retract the Chain Tensioner piston onto the little hook for install
46:36 What's inside the Chain Tensioner?
50:19 Install the Chain Tensioner (80 inch-lbs)
53:29 Review of Toyota FSM procedure for extending the Chain Tensioner piston/plunger
58:38 Slide of the FSM procedure
58:41 Boroscope view of Chain Tensioner
1:00:07 Using the FSM procedure to extend the Chain Tensioner
piston/plunger
1:03:41 After extending the Tensioner piston/plunger, verify tension and
timing with two clockwise turns
1:07:35 Slide of the FSM Timing Marks note
1:07:47 Note about using a screwdriver to release the piston/plunger
1:08:10 Remove the old Valve Cover gasket (Toyota 11213-0D040, or Fel-Pro
VS 50542 R)
1:09:18 Install the new Valve Cover gasket
1:11:00 Clean the Valve Cover gasket mating surface
1:11:20 Apply FIPG/gasket-maker/RTV onto two places on the head (I use
Permatex Ultra Black RTV)
1:13:30 Install the fasteners for the Valve Cover (Perimeter bolts/nuts: 96
inch-lbs; Center bolts: 80 inch-lbs)
1:17:04 Reconnect the electrical harness to the brackets
1:17:50 Re-install the ignitors and bolts (80 inch-lbs)
1:18:13 Re-install the electrical harness fasteners (80 inch-lbs)
1:18:40 Reconnect the electrical for the ignitors
1:19:06 Reconnect the two breather hoses
1:20:14 Allow the RTV to cure then start the engine
1:20:54 Clean up the oil leak (if applicable)
This is the experimental JIS P22.4 75 Durometer FKM O-ring I used in the
video:
www.oringsandm...
minimum-3-pcs/
This is the experimental O-ring grease (Molykote 55):
www.amazon.com...
Lubricant/dp/B01HEC1W3A/ref=sr_1_6
I hope this video was helpful for you.
Thank you for watching, and good
luck with your repair! 👍
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values:
00:27 Timing Chain Tensioner location and oil leak pattern
01:27 Explanation about the variety of methods for this repair
04:19 Why the Tensioner must be extended properly
05:03 Why some mechanics charge for a Valve Cover job with this repair
05:41 Differences in this video versus some other videos (FSM technique)
09:03 Begin Removal of the Valve Cover, make a bolt template
10:37 Disconnect the electrical connectors for the ignitors
11:48 Remove two fasteners for the electrical harness (10mm)
12:18 Remove four bolts for the ignitors (10mm)
12:39 Remove the ignitors
13:35 Disconnect the breather hose
14:04 Disconnect the hose to the PCV valve
14:44 Locations of the Valve Cover fasteners (ten 10mm, one 12mm)
16:06 Slip the harness off of the three brackets for easier access
17:22 Remove the Valve Cover fasteners
22:17 Tie up the electrical harness for easier access
22:47 Remove the Valve Cover
25:12 Turn the crankshaft clockwise to TDC/Compression (19mm)
27:25 Detailed view of turning clockwise to TDC/Compression
29:02 Detailed view of timing marks
32:04 Demonstration: making another two crank turns to show how the
camshaft timing marks align every other crank rotation
34:03 Clean up the old gasket maker/RTV at two spots on the head
36:31 Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner (two 10mm nuts)
39:26 Don't turn the engine with the Chain Tensioner out
40:02 Chain Tensioner on the bench (Toyota 13540-0D010) and O-ring
(Toyota 90301-22013 or JIS P22.4)
42:12 Remove the old O-ring (if just replacing the O-ring)
42:46 Experiment: I treat the new O-ring with Dow Molykote 55 O-ring
grease
43:25 Install new O-ring to the Chain Tensioner (use a sleeve if possible)
44:54 Retract the Chain Tensioner piston onto the little hook for install
46:36 What's inside the Chain Tensioner?
50:19 Install the Chain Tensioner (80 inch-lbs)
53:29 Review of Toyota FSM procedure for extending the Chain Tensioner piston/plunger
58:38 Slide of the FSM procedure
58:41 Boroscope view of Chain Tensioner
1:00:07 Using the FSM procedure to extend the Chain Tensioner
piston/plunger
1:03:41 After extending the Tensioner piston/plunger, verify tension and
timing with two clockwise turns
1:07:35 Slide of the FSM Timing Marks note
1:07:47 Note about using a screwdriver to release the piston/plunger
1:08:10 Remove the old Valve Cover gasket (Toyota 11213-0D040, or Fel-Pro
VS 50542 R)
1:09:18 Install the new Valve Cover gasket
1:11:00 Clean the Valve Cover gasket mating surface
1:11:20 Apply FIPG/gasket-maker/RTV onto two places on the head (I use
Permatex Ultra Black RTV)
1:13:30 Install the fasteners for the Valve Cover (Perimeter bolts/nuts: 96
inch-lbs; Center bolts: 80 inch-lbs)
1:17:04 Reconnect the electrical harness to the brackets
1:17:50 Re-install the ignitors and bolts (80 inch-lbs)
1:18:13 Re-install the electrical harness fasteners (80 inch-lbs)
1:18:40 Reconnect the electrical for the ignitors
1:19:06 Reconnect the two breather hoses
1:20:14 Allow the RTV to cure then start the engine
1:20:54 Clean up the oil leak (if applicable)
This is the experimental JIS P22.4 75 Durometer FKM O-ring I used in the
video:
www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-22-1-x-3-5mm-jis-p22-4-
minimum-3-pcs/
This is the experimental O-ring grease (Molykote 55):
www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Ring-Grease-
Lubricant/dp/B01HEC1W3A/ref=sr_1_6
Here's a short video about why this Matrix has a milled cylinder head:
th-cam.com/video/IgpU2OPWd20/w-d-xo.html
I hope this video was helpful for you.
Thank you for watching, and good
luck with your repair! 👍
Thanks for the great DIY video. I believe I'm experiencing the same problem that is addressed her. I would like to ask if you may have seen oil elsewhere due to Chain-Tensioner leak? I myself had oil all the way up to right side of radiator on the splash guard, on the CV Axle and on serpentine belt. No leaks near filter or pressure sending unit. Nor on the valve cover gasket,etc. I do see oil on the back side near chain-tensioner and below it. Also, how has your chain- tensioner replacement gone? Did the experimental seal replacement seal better? Thank you for your time and I look forward to your reply.
@@UnifiedPeoples So far, so good on my repair, but I really haven't driven too much, so I'll need probably a few months to really determine if the Molykote 55 and alternate/harder o-ring will do anything to prevent the leak.
As for the leak - this leak can make a huge mess, to include the big mess you're describing. However, if you're not sure where the leak is originating, drive the car up on some ramps and slide under with some Super Clean (or other cleaner) and a roll of paper towels, and clean up what you see. Try to get it rather clean - it is worth the effort, and I know it is a pain in the neck cleaning under there! Clean up around the tensioner itself, then check back after a few drives to see if you can definitively locate the source.
Another spot you can get a messy leak is from are the o-rings on the VVT solenoid and camshaft sensor - check out the video link below to see those items (they are super easy repairs, luckily!). Basically, if you're not sure where the leak is originating, it really is worth the time and effort to clean up the oil leak and try to find the source. I hope that helps : )
Here's the video on the other o-ring oil leak sources:
th-cam.com/video/ZiRoBR22d6g/w-d-xo.html
مفيد جدا شكرا لك❤❤❤
شكرًا لك! @@husein7287
@@L35inColorado can you make a video how to replace the chain on your toyota matrix
This is the best repair video I have ever seen! Great videography (picture in picture), easily understood explanation with documentation, thoroughly detailed, narration was pleasant, the pauses with highlighted annotations, time stamps, listed part numbers & you did not talk down alternative ways shown by others on TH-cam. You put a lot of work into this video! Bravo!!!! I really enjoyed watching it. I didn't skip forward at all while watching this video like I usually do. 😃 I am a subscriber for sure.
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing! I try to put lots of detail in my videos. Thanks for watching! : )
Agreed 100%!! Informative, great cam work, and great little tech tips.....d.i.y.'rs don't understand what damage can be done when messing with timing components. Great job explaining how to get it to cyl #1 TDC BEFORE removal and the detailed camera work showing the timing marks on the crank pulley.....are you really a videographer or an auto tech??.....a bit of both huh?😊 Best repair vid I've EVER seen. No bs!!
Wow this is so amazing, great video , thank you so much,!!
I whis there was honest mechanics like you in my area😊
I have been an aerospace educator for over 40 years, I rebuild Porsche 911 engines as a hobby. These are far and above the absolute best automotive repair DIY videos I've ever seen. Teaching/educating is solidly in your DNA! GREAT JOB! Keep it up.
Wow, that's a very kind comment - thank you!
And thank you for being an educator for over 40 years and teaching so many people what you've learned - you've made a wonderful contribution to the whole world! There must be aerospace people all over the world who have learned from you - how cool is that?!
Thanks for watching : )
Thank you for making your video so detailed, and relieving my anxiety of doing this myself. No I know that I can do it my self
That is my goal - lots of detail so we can all see what's going on, and why! Thanks for watching! : )
You have made one of the best repair videos I have seen on this platform. Fantastic attention to detail. Great job. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
This video is freaking FANTASTIC!! From the narration, to the camera work, to the pauses w/circles, arrows and text..... pure master class in how-to / tutorial videos! Love it! Also, cool tip for putting the new O-ring on! Toyota and Snap-On probably make a special $300 tool for that - LOL!
Wow, thank you for your comment! Haha - there probably is a special tool, you're right! Thanks for watching : )
I was saying the same thing to my friend about the Producer L35
Wow.... I'm impressed. Beautiful job... well, everything was explained fantastically. Thank you.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Bravo! I already know how to do this on my Vibe ( same engine) but I learned several things and heck was “infotained” for an hour. I will use this as inspiration for a video in my line of work to teach people who already know how to do something their way ,how to do it the right way going forward. And why it’s important. My multi billion dollar business could learn some best practices from you!
Thank you! That's great that you're making a video to show the proper techniques for your field's applications: I'm a big fan of detailed videos, especially for technical operations because technicians can watch and re-watch a detailed video as a sort of practice for the real work ahead. A good video can give a technician more confidence for executing a new operation, and for common operations, a good video can explain why a certain technique/step is necessary even when it is not apparent why it's necessary, and may even seem like "a waste of time".
That's basically why I did this video - I noticed many people wondering online as to why a conservative mechanic might price this job higher and coupled with a valve cover gasket replacement, while many other mechanics don't. Some people mistakenly thought that the first mechanic was just "ripping me off!" because they didn't understand why he'd remove the valve cover when they've seen several videos on TH-cam of regular people doing the tensioner replacement in 15 minutes, without removing the valve cover and "everything was fine".
So, I just wanted to explain that while, yes, it is possible to do the job in 15 minutes without removing the valve cover (as shown in many other videos, and as even often done in shops by technicians, including Toyota techs), ultimately the person paying the bills and making the decisions needs to know that executing the repair in that way ("blind") comes with the very low-probability but very high-impact risk of timing chain skip on an interference engine, which typically causes catastrophic engine damage when it occurs. Here is an example, with a picture:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/broken-cam-chain.1466994/
An average DIYer might not know that such catastrophic damage is possible from "such a simple DIY on youtube", but a technician or mechanic ought to know. A conservative tech or mechanic is simply not willing to risk chain skip on an interference engine, period, so he will spend the extra time and gasket to "just do it right" and simply remove the valve cover so he can see what he's doing, confirm tensioner release and double-check timing, and therefore eliminate the risk of catastrophic damage. Conservative mechanics also prefer to resolve doubt as much as possible/reasonable rather than to rely strictly on chance, so the visual confirmation resolves the doubt, too.
So - anyways - a big thanks to you for making videos for your people, too, so that they can do their operations well and understand why they're doing what they're doing! And thanks for watching : )
Wow, this is such an amazing video! Thank you for this. The explanations and demonstrations are very clear. I've watch quite a few videos on this repair and nothing compares on the detail and articulation as what you have done. I'll definitely give this a try for my '07 Corolla. Thank you very much!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
What a well documentated and beautifully executed tutorial. Love your video style and your calm soothing voice narration. Subscription worthy 100%. Very surprised it leaked again....what is going on with Toyota quality? At least that tensioner doesn't require a grenade pin and doesn't require Herculean pressure to push it back in like some Subaru ones.
Haha, yes this tensioner is much easier to work with, and it is nice that it is accessible without removing the chain cover. As far as the o-ring leak - I'm not sure what's going on, but unfortunately it has become a common issue. From what I understand, the factory installed o-rings (ie, installed in '03 - '08) lasted quite a long time and typically didn't start leaking until 10 years or more later. But at some point, the quality/supplier must have changed, because these o-ring leaks too often. I hope my experiment works! : )
Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!
I’ve been watching Toyota repair videos for years, this is the best one I’ve ever seen, very detailed and easy to understand, thank you so much 💙
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
The tensioner is a culprit on the 2ZZ GE (Celica) engine and the O-Ring leaking. However, many replace the O-Ring and/or tensioner and it still leaks. Usually the timing cover gasket is the culprit then. The gasket dries out and cracks and leaks oil. However, always make sure some RTV is applied in key areas according to manufacturer tech book and correct torques when refitting timing cover. Otherwise the leak can come back. Brilliant step by step video here. Wish many people took the time like you have to explain clearly.
Yes, unfortunately that is a fairly common problem on the 2ZZ-GE engines as they get older. The 1ZZ-FE has a form-in-place gasket (FIPG, gasket-maker, RTV) for the timing case cover, and it seems to be a bit more durable as timing cover leaks are less common on the 1ZZ-FE. Thanks for watching and for adding your tips! : )
What's your opinion of the Molykote 55 so far? Do you think it has helped or too early to tell?
This is the best video I ever watch on TH-cam and I am a subscriber
I love your attention to detail!! I wish I could find a mechanic like you here in Waco Texas. I am disabled in a wheelchair and I take my Toyota Sienna to the dealership, but I always worry who is working on my van. I enjoy all your videos!!
Thanks! : ) I know what you mean about shops: it's difficult to find a shop to trust, unfortunately. I'm not familiar at all with the Waco market: you might be able to find some suggestions in the Sienna or general Toyota forums about independent shops that people in Waco trust. Hopefully your Sienna doesn't require too much repair - they are reliable vans that last a long time!
Thanks for watching! : )
So I went counter clockwise 20 degrees like you said then forward till the piston compression was fighting 4x
Car runs good
After the Counter clockwise motion going forward I heard it zip and ratchet a little bit
Great job on your DIY - thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for this video. Everything is well explained and illustrated. You put in so much effort into this video. New subscriber.
Wow - thank you for your comment, thank you for subscribing, and thanks for watching! : )
It's been a year since you posted this video but thank you very, very much for doing it. I followed the video's fantastic directions and installed a new chain tensioner last weekend with no drama. I opted to use a screwdriver to release the chain tensioner, which was very easy and guaranteed no chain skip. Please let us know if the O-ring you installed with the moly grease is better than a Toyota O-ring.
It's relatively still new but, if possible, please post any videos on how to do maintenance on a Toyota's hybrid system and the A25A-FXS engine.
Wow, that's great - nice job on your DIY! As far as my o-ring with the Moly - so far, so good. Thanks for watching! : )
I am amazed, proffesional work and videoedit. I just did the same on my mini 3ZZFE engine and it was pleasure to follow your instructions :) Greetings from Prague.
Wow, outstanding job on your DIY! Thanks for watching -- and all the way from Prague! : )
Thank you for this awesome detailed video, especially showing us how to check the timing components to make sure they lined up. I just changed my valve cover gasket and timing chain tensioner for the first time and everything went great :)
Outstanding! Well done on your DIY, great work! : )
The way you do your repairs with explanations is good. It help those of us who want to learn automobile engineering so easy to to understand. So now I would want to you send me some of your repairs videos. So captivating.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I am Iraqi and I do not speak English well, but this video is very good, rather excellent, and even those who are not fluent in English understand it, and I understood 90% of it. Thank you very much and keep broadcasting
Wow, that is super! Thank you for watching! : )
I know this video is a year old, but at about 10:22 you said you did a rebuild on this. Did you mean you rebuilt the engine or just top end? I'm just curious. Thanks.
Thanks - by "rebuilt" I meant that I did all the head work, piston rings, and rod bearings, but I didn't do a full rebuild (no work on the crankshaft or main bearings).
To be more detailed - I bought the Matrix for very cheap in 2018 after it had been sitting about 6 months or more due to a blown head gasket: the head gasket failure was apparently caused by a shop tech who forgot to plug in the electric fan, which caused an overheat. Mileage was 196K miles, and the original owner had never had any issues with it since new.
To repair the head gasket problem, back in 2018 I removed the head and had it professionally milled (there was some pretty good warpage and the machine shop had to remove a bit more than I was expecting), but the block appeared to be re-useable/within spec. But I wasn't certain that the block was actually still good, so I hedged.
So, I just removed the oil pan so that I could remove the pistons to the rings and rod bearings, since those parts are were cheap enough and these engines do have issues with oil passage obstruction at the piston head holes. I didn't split the block, and I didn't remove the crankshaft, though. I didn't hone the cylinders, either, because I learned at that time that this Matrix has the "newer" 1ZZ-FE version that has specialized cylinder liners that apparently you don't want to hone.
I lapped the valves and replaced all the valve stem seals, and all the other seals/o-rings I could; the camshafts didn't require any work and valve clearances were good. I put everything back together (with a standard head gasket), and she's been running great since, and I've put about 30K miles on since.
I did that work with the engine in place and didn't remove the timing cover, either (I suspended the chain to keep it on the crank sprocket while doing the other work): the reason I didn't go deeper was because I really wasn't sure that the block was actually good (seemed to be, but I wasn't sure) and didn't want to regret throwing parts at a bad block. But apparently the block was good enough!
That's a very long answer to your question, but I hope that answers it! : ) Thanks for watching, and if you're wondering about a video for the sort of "rebuild" I did, check out this outstanding video:
th-cam.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching! : )
I'm doing DIY repairing my corolla. At first time, it started cleaning manifolder intake, and then I am getting disassemble the engine, and need some information how to set up crank and camshaft, your video clearly shows how to set up crank and camshaft, I am searching another video how to remove engine block...LOL. Thank you for your video. 😀
This below is one of the best videos I've seen on the 1ZZ-FE - it doesn't show the block removal, but it shows a lot of other great info:
th-cam.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/w-d-xo.html
There are some differences between the early 1ZZ-FE (like the one shown in that video) and the newer 1ZZ-FE (for example - you don't the cylinders on the newer engines), but overall that video is a real gem, if you haven't seen it!
Good luck - sounds like a fun project! : )
Thanks for watching
Kudos again for such a very detailed video! Thanks much for your effort into making this video! Thanks thanks!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Can we just remove the tensioner out to replace the O Ring and reinstall the tensioner back - without opening the valve cover ? .
The answer to that question is in the video very early on
This is the golden standard for DYI videos. 👏
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank gou so much for this outstanding video. Everything about it is top level. Production values are above and beyond. Referncing, specifications, explanations, options, tips and tricks, every checkbox ticked and exceeded. All delivered in a clear, concise one hundred per cent understandable manner. Thank you, thank you, and thanks again. Very best wishes 🙏🏼😊
Wow, thank you so much - and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent work, this level of detail gives DIY’ers the confidence to get these jobs done right. Would you recommend cleaning out the valve cover gasket with brake cleaner or degreaser before reinstalling?
Thanks! If you mean cleaning out the channel where the valve cover gasket fits with brake cleaner, then yes, you can do that. If you don't have brake cleaner you can use degreaser, or even just a paper towel to remove the old oil before installing the new gasket - just something to get it clean so you don't mistake old oil as a new leak after the repair.
If you mean that you're re-using the valve cover gasket (like I do in the video) and you're asking if you should clean the gasket itself - then, no, I wouldn't use brake cleaner or degreaser on the gasket itself. Instead, I'd just wipe the gasket with a paper towel, and clean the channel where the gasket fits. I wouldn't put any chemicals on the gasket itself, as chemicals might degrade it's durability/make it brittle.
I hope that helps - thanks for watching and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks for your response! I just meant the inside of the cover itself (definitely will clean the channel/not clean or reuse the old gasket). For instance, some shops throw them in their parts cleaner tanks before applying the new seal. As a DIY’er I was curious whether it was safe (or necessary) to clean out old caked-on oil with brake cleaner or whether that would affect the oil in the engine in a negative way, even if it was dried with a shop towel, etc..
EDIT: didn’t mean to say “valve cover *gasket*, just “valve cover”, my bad.
Good videos, I would like you to fix my Toyota Corolla 2007. I live in New Jersey. Regards
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video with great illustrations, references and in depth explanations. Best video(s) that I have seen.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
If I had teachers like L35; I would be in a better position today. Fantastic illustration and presentation. 👏🏼
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I rotated my 1zz without the tensioner installed very slowly could I have jumped a tooth? Thx
It is unlikely, but it is possible. Did you hear/feel anything unusual while rotating the crankshaft, and how much did you rotate it?
hola buenas tardes gracias por tú información tán perfecta ésto también lo puedo aplicar en una Toyota RAV4 2006 2.4 gracias por su atención
Muy bien, gracias por agregar tu consejo sobre el Rav4.
¡Gracias por ver! : )
At first i was like "this guy has a very soft girly voice during the intro then i realised it was a bad ass woman with excellent explanation video tutorial! 😎
Haha, that's funny!! Thank you, and thanks for watching : )
On my 2010 Toyota Corolla repair manual said to release tensioner hook turn crankshaft to counterclockwise then clockwise. Now I have 2016 Toyota Corolla 2xr-fae should turn clockwise to release the hook in the beginning?this is another youtuber told me to turn clockwise to release hook.i dont feel to open engine cover and i dont have camera,and you need to buy new engine cover gasket too and extra.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I don't have an FSM for the 2XR-FAE, so I don't know. If I were doing that job, I would determine what the FSM says and likely do that. As mentioned in the video, I think it is a more conservative "fail safe" method to remove the valve cover. I've done the job without removing the cover on the 1ZZFE, but I prefer to remove the valve cover and just be certain there's no issue. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Make sure you are using the appropriate torque wrench. LB-in is not equal to LB-ft
That is correct: 1 ft-lbs is 12 times the applied torque of 1 inch-lbs, so it is essential to be aware of this while reviewing documents and to use the correct torque wrench.
A helpful tip is that most (not all, but most) inch-lbs range torque wrenches are 1/4" drive. The smaller drive size is consistent with the application for lower torque.
Thanks for watching! : )
so the oil line mark on the tensioner would be directly correlated to how stretched the chain is right?
Alot of editing and documentation work on this video! Very detailed, thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Subscribing!! Great video with great explanation, clear talking and directions and great video/pictures. pausing and marking up pictures explaining what to look for. Very impressed with your work and video making skills!! This must have taken quite a bit of time to edit the video, kudos to you! I started researching, because my daughters 2015 Corolla with 192,000 is leaking up in that area. I saw one video where the TCT had a gasket on it instead of an 0-ring th-cam.com/video/EtImRwTrL20/w-d-xo.html . have you seen that before and do you think that is any better if you have? How has that non OEM O-ring been holding up? I am going to order an OEM TCT per the VIN and if it comes with O-ring instead of gasket, I was thinking of just changing it right away, or maybe not if the original lasted 192,000. Right away I thought of the 55 lubricant. I have a ube of Dow Corning DC-55 we used in assemblies.
Thanks!
There are at least two styles of Toyota timing chain tensioners that I'm aware of - one with the o-ring (as seen in the video) and another with a gasket (the earlier and later Corolla's used gaskets, as well as some other models/engines).
Use whichever chain tensioner matches your particular engine, based on the Toyota VIN spec, as you mentioned. They are not interchangeable - that is to say, if your engine originally came with the o-ring style, replace it with another o-ring style; do not attempt to add a gasket to the o-ring style chain tensioner because it will likely leak.
The chain tensioners are intended to be sealed either by the gasket or the o-ring, but not both. You can tell by looking at the chain tensioner itself, too: the chain tensioners that use the gasket don't have the machined groove where the o-ring fits, whereas the o-ring tensioner do have a groove.
Your 2015 Corolla uses a different part number than the one shown in the video. You can use the Toyota parts site to lookup what fits your application exactly, and then just purchase that part:
autoparts.toyota.com/products/category/parts
Lastly, about this engine in the video - yes, the aftermarket o-ring has been working! So far, so good - though since I used both the Molykote 55 and the different o-ring, I can't say whether it is the o-ring, the lubricant, or both that is making the difference! Haha, I just hope it holds up because it is such a silly oil leak to have.
Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado I did pick up a new one based off VIN and it is the gasket style. Just need to find time to change it one of these days now :)
GOOD JOB, I really liked your video!!! Thanks
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Such a great video, youre amazing, wish there was more honest mechanics.. i want you in my area.. macon ga 😊
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
oh my!! excellent video!!!!!! all your videos are amazing!!!!!! excellent detail also!!!!!!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great attitude & video! My 03 has 260K miles and I'll soon be opening it up to check valve clearances. Six exhaust and two intake valves needed adjustment at 170K. Those last two exhaust valves are a concern since you can burn a valve if you run them too tight for long and they usually get tighter as the seats wear. Glad I got lucky when I replaced the tensioner over a decade ago.
Thanks, and thanks for adding your tips! : )
You used RTV where the timing chain cover meets the head to prevent oil leakage through that little gap... have you considered using a bit of RTV on the base of the tensioner (certainly not on the o-ring itself), where it mounts on the block, as insurance against future o-ring leaks?
I am aware that some people do that - the pro's and con's have been discussed at length on the boards, especially the Toyotanation.com forum, for example here:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement.1255385/
www.toyotanation.com/threads/timing-chain-cover-oil-leak.1689219/
www.toyotanation.com/threads/timing-chain-tensioner-replaced-leaks-more.369697/
Those experiences show some limited success with that approach, but generally it doesn't work out so well and tends to just add a mess to the leak, because the real issue is that darn o-ring.
So personally, I don't use RTV for the chain tensioner because unless I have a very good reason to, I will generally stick to the FSM and adhere to the original design on components, and the original design on this is that the o-ring seals the bore. It is true that for whatever reason, Toyota hasn't got it quite right with their choice to use an o-ring to seal this bore in particular, because it leaks so often (in other applications they used a gasket which seems to have leaks much less often).
I'm hoping my "upgraded o-ring" will solve the problem, but we'll see! Personally, RTV would pretty much be my last resort because RTV is indeed a real bother to clean up. But I can certainly understand that people get frustrated with this recurrent leak and resort to RTV - it's just not something I'm willing to do yet : )
I hope that helps - thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado Thanks for the reply. With that in mind I'm going to skip the RTV and just go with your / the FSM's approach for when I do mine for the first (and hopefully last) time. Awesome channel btw, keep up the good work.
I have looked for a through video on how to fix oil leaks on my Corolla. I’m glad I found you.
You’ve got a new subscriber.
Keep doing a great job. 😊
Thank you - thanks for watching, and thanks for subscribing! : )
Best repair video ever of all time ever. So how did the new o ring work? Is the leak problem solved? I wonder if someone put someRTV on the mating surface to the chain tensioner to the engine if that would help. What do you think?
Yes, so far, so good with the repair on the engine shown in the video. Regarding the RTV - that has been tried by others in the past, and it seems from the forums that the general consensus is...it doesn't work, and it just makes a mess for the next tech! Here is what I mean, from a post by a Toyota dealer tech:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement.1255385/
I hope that helps - Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado that absolutely helps 🙏 thanks
Taking the spark plugs out makes turning the engine over much easier.
Yes, you can always do that - thanks for watching and sharing your tips!
Excellent video, extremely detailed which is what I wanted!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
hola buenas noches excelente video bien explicado me ayudó mucho saludos Venezuela
Gracias - y gracias por ver! : )
OMGosh!!! This is THE BEST DIY video on the entire TH-cam! Detailed, thorough explanations, great editing, great filming, lighting, graphics. Not only the how, but the why and the why not! I came here because I have a P0016 code--"crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor 1". My Autel code reader gave some possible fixes. I have replaced both crank and cam sensor (because they were easiest to do). Next is replacing the chain tensioner (its leaking oil also)--and while I do the procedure so expertly detailed in this video I can check timing and whether the chain skipped a tooth. Any additional suggestions? Do Toyota timing chains stretch/wear after 200k miles? Thanks again for the video!
I teach, you sound like you do too! Just brilliant.
Thanks! I myself don't teach, but I have taken lots of courses over the years on different subjects, and I highly appreciate a good teacher! : )
Thanks for watching!
Great video inspection very well done, ty and God Blessed you
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you. I like the cinematography.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Subscriber for LIfe! You are absolutely the BEST teacher on the internet. Thank you so much for all of your hard work and effort. You are much appreciated!
Thank you! Thanks for subscribing, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome instruction!
The very best, clearest, concise instructional video ever ! Please do a rebuild on this engine .
Thank you! I have rebuilt this engine, but didn't record video because there is actually already an excellent bolt-by-bolt by another youtuber here:
th-cam.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/w-d-xo.html
That video is outstanding: there are a few little differences since he's working on the oldest version of the 1ZZ-FE (for example, you wouldn't hone the cylinders on the later version 1ZZ-FE found in the Matrix), but overall it is a gem video. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
What would the difference between the 03' and the 02' 1ZZ-FE could be? I've recently noticed some chain slap when accelerating beginning in the 2k-3k RPM range, hoping it is just the tensioner and not the chain. I have a valve cover gasket leak, so while I'm in there replacing the gasket, I will probably replace the tensioner as well if the chain isn't noticeably stretched. Is there a website where I can view the guide to replace it?
i love it, you did a great job, very well explained.. thanks for explaining every tech detail..(you are really patient)
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video. Many thanks. If you continue offering us this kind of video lectures many of us will rather spend our weekends working on our cars. I really appreciate what you are doing. We need more teachers like you, honestly. Regards from Florida.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
And Merry Christmas!
Hi perfect video,I have question for engine 1.8 ZR-FAE valvematic is same procedure like on video?
Thanks! No, the ZR-FAE will be different in a few ways. As far as I know, the ZR-FAE engines use a different gasket for the timing chain tensioner (not an o-ring as shown in this video). Double-check this info for your model, but I believe the part is Toyota 13552-0T020.
Also, the valve cover gasket is different, and there are a few more items to disconnect to remove the valve cover.
As far as the install: I don't have an FSM for any ZR-FAE, so I cannot say for sure, but it is likely very similar.
I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
Thanks for replying,yes you right but I talking about procedure of release tensioner and I can do this with rocket cover on is a mind (blind)?
@@nowa-huta-krk I don't have an FSM for that engine group, so I cannot tell you for certain. If I had to guess, I would think the tensioner release technique is identical or similar, since this is a tensioner style used across several Toyota engine groups - but I cannot say for sure without reviewing the FSM.
As mentioned in the video, the method shown (removing the valve cover) is the most conservative, "fool-proof" method. It is the only way to do the repair with certainty of no chain skip, because you visually confirm timing and tensioner release.
Also, as mentioned in the video, it is certainly possible to do the job shown in the video without removing the valve cover (I've done it that way before myself, and many mechanics do it that way everyday). There are many youtube videos which show various version of that approach.
Personally, I just don't do it that way anymore. I remove the valve cover, because in my opinion, it is just not worth the risk of chain skip, especially when removing the valve cover only adds a few minutes to the job. I don't say it is wrong or bad to do it "blind", but I don't do it that way anymore, personally.
I hope that helps : )
If its just a chain, whats the big deal with having to be at top dead center? Why bother having to remove the valve cover? What is the reason for that?
As shown in the video, the main reason for removing the valve cover is to confirm that no chain skip occurs while turning the engine with the tensioner retracted and to confirm that the tensioner releases properly: when the tensioner is retracted (as it is when you initially install it) the effect is the same as having no tensioner at all because the tensioner is not contacting the chain guide.
The FSM technique requires a very slight counterclockwise rotation to push the chain guide up against the tensioner to slightly move the tensioner piston back enough to allow the little hook to slide up. Then the engine is turned clockwise and the tensioner extends into place.
As far as I can guess, the FSM spec of TDC cylinder #1 as the reference initial position may be simply as a reference position, but it seems to me that also, practically, it is a good position because at that position there is no "snap back" from valve spring resistance when turning the crack counterclockwise (but that's just my guess).
Regarding your other question (I saw the comment, but can't find it now) - don't insert the tensioner fully extended under any circumstances. The reason is because the tension will be far to high - the tensioner only extends a little bit when properly tensioned and is no where near the fully extended position: you can look at the oil line on your used tensioner to see what I mean (see the 04:00 mark in this video).
As mentioned in the video, it is certainly possible to do this job with the valve cover on; the purpose of this video is to shown the most conservative, "fool-proof", FSM method. That method requires removal of the valve cover so you can visually inspect the operation, and as mentioned in the video, that is why some mechanics charge for a valve cover replacement when doing this job (they're not trying to rip anyone off - they're just being conservative and careful).
I have done it both ways myself, but my motivation for documenting this "safest" procedure was really to prevent very unfortunate events like this:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/broken-cam-chain.1466994/
Seeing that thread above (and hearing about some other bad outcomes from this particular DIY) motivated me to make this video - simply to show the method which will prevent anyone else from such a terrible outcome on an otherwise very simple DIY. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado It went well, and T.D.C. wasn't needed because it was not a timing chain issue, it was just the replacement of the tensioner (o-ring mainly) to stop the oil leak. I am still leaking oil, so I will put on a flange gasket and continue from there. Thank you for your kind words and information, this is how we progress and gain prosperity.
Very didactic video! Besides a good instructor you're a very very good PRO. My only concern was about the distance of the tensioner piston once unlocked. If I may give you one advice, you should breakdown the video in parts (Part I, II...). Thank you, you are awesome. Cheers from Brazil!
Thank you so much !!
Very informative. Thank you for posting this video.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Very detailed video, big thanks!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I have an 03 corolla with this engine and its at 130k miles. At start up im hearing what sounds like the timing chain rubbing against something (almost a gurgling/dragging sound, but hard to describe). After starting, the sound is mostly while in gear and engine idle is low. Doesn't matter if engine is hot or cold. If I put it in neutral and as rpms come up a bit, sound appears to go away. Watched a ton of videos, and this one seems to be the most in depth. Does my issue sound like a bad timing chain tensioner? Hoping I can fix this myself and avoid and expensive repair if possible. Hope this comment finds you and you can provide some assistance. UPDATE..i wasn't able to get the tensioner in past the oring by hand. I then slowly worked it by slowly tightening the nuts one at a time. Then everything went south. When I went to torque the nuts to 80 inch pounds, the top nut stripped out and wont tighten. I was able to get the stud out with the T5 socket....but cant get a replacement locally. I guess I have to call Toyota tomorrow now.....UGGG>
When I was about to replace my 1999 Toyota Corolla's timing chain tensioner last year, I found an interesting short (3:25) video th-cam.com/video/AlVIqixb3u4/w-d-xo.html regarding the 1ZZ-FE timing chain tensioner. The guy in the video said the design of the oil pump location prevents the timing chain from skipping when rotating the timing chain to pop the tensioner hook (see 2:18 mark in the video). I released my tensioner by rotating counter-clockwise and the referenced video made me feel a lot more confident when I was doing it. Just a FYI. Thank you for your detailed video.
That's a great video - thanks for sharing it!
One variable to consider is that is his video, he replaced the old timing chain with a new timing chain, so there in his case, there is no extra slack from chain wear to consider. An original chain on a higher mileage engine will have some slack, though, and in the case of the chain in my video, it is an original chain on an engine with a milled head (so there is more slack yet).
I like his video and maybe some time I'll try what he's doing with an old chain, and see if I find the same results! That would be neat. I will likely replace my chain next year, and if I do, I'll keep this video in mind and see if I can't replicate his results even with an old chain.
So, just to be cautious, I would limit his conclusions to the particular setting in the video, which is for a new timing chain. Because the last thing we'd want is this result:
www.toyotanation.com/threads/broken-cam-chain.1466994/
I don't have enough info from that thread to determine if that chain broken due to over-tensioning and skipped timing, or just over-tensioning. But unfortunately, that chain tensioner DIY went very south, by whatever cause : (
Thanks again for sharing the video and your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado I was very concerned about skipped timing but did not think about a broken chain. I bought an OEM tensioner from SF Toyota (last year: only $32 + tax, but need to buy online even though I live in San Francisco; free shipping on orders $75+). Glad I did instead of searching for o-ring replacement, because the old tensioner seemed very worn even to my untrained evaluation. Car had almost 400k miles then. Amazing to me that I saw countless videos online preaching that the crank MUST be rotated clockwise to engage tensioner; I had a PDF page of the Toyota service manual that said otherwise. One video even started the car without rotating the crank. After I saw AJ's video, I thought that his conclusion may be why a lot of people have gotten away with clockwise rotation of the crank. TH-cam is truly a "viewer beware" activity. That's why I appreciate the informative contents on your channel.
Also, as a FYI, Eric O at South Main Auto just used a long screw driver to release the hook when he had the valve cover off. But I'm not sure if that is as easy as what he made it appear. Don't have the link to his video handy.
@@yusuihang Yes - the screwdriver technique is mentioned in the FSM, too (58:22) - I have done it that way, but it was kinda hard for me, so I prefer to use the crankbolt method.
That is remarkable about your mileage - 400K! So your odometer is stuck at 299,999 mi, right? That's my goal with this Matrix : )
@@L35inColorado The odometer is at 400,111 now. My brother bought the car new in 1999. He used it as a daily (100 miles a day) commuter for the first 13 years. I've been doing maintenance repair on it for last 10 years. My brother just gave the car to me thinking it's on its last leg. I changed rear wheel bearings and the car still runs good--I should have changed all four struts sooner than I did a few years ago and that may have saved the wheel bearings (and tires). I'm about to replace front crank seal. It helps a lot being in California, with no rust issues. I see a lot of the 1998-2002 generation Corollas still running. I think your Matrix will make to 300k miles and beyond. I'm sure you get enjoyment from driving a high mileage car when it is running well. Can't say that we took any special care of our Corolla, other than oil change every 3k miles.
@@yusuihang Wow, that is outstanding! You've done great work to keep your Corolla on the road - well done! On my generation of Matrix/Corolla, Toyota limited the odometer display to "299,999" - so if I get there, my odometer will be stuck at 299,999, haha!
Hey just as something to mention - if you don't have a seal tool and would liek to get one for that crank seal job, I really like the Lisle 58430 for pulling shaft seals. Here it is in action on on 3S-FE:
th-cam.com/video/TbOr7gvqSqc/w-d-xo.html
You don't need that tool to remove a shaft seal, but it works really well!
Hey, thanks for going into it with so much details! Why are we aligning it with the TDC of cyclinder 1? What happens if the crankshaft is off by 1 revolution instead? I was wondering if this replacement can be done with the valve cover on and just aligning crankshaft pulley with the 0 mark without checking the intake-exhuast sprocket mark alignment to check if we are in the right cycle. Thanks
Wow, I did this procedure without watching this first. Did the counter clockwise clockwise move listening for the soind. But seeing this, just made me realise that i got lucky, results could have been disastrous. Thanks for explaining this procedure in detail.
Thanks for making this video !!! Chain skip is a really big risk for people who have older Corollas with lots of miles on them since the timing chain will be more stretched and have a much greater risk of having the chain skip a tooth. I have a slight leak on my tensioner and instead of changing the O-ring I simply added a 236 ml bottle of 'AT-205 RE-SEAL' to the engine oil when I changed my engine oil and that seems to have fixed the oil-leak problem for me.
Great video! My mom was a master teacher and it was a joy to listen to her teach...same goes for you! I'm wondering if you have had any oil leaks since you did this repair...an update on the O-ring experiment would be great! There are some people who've had success using a slightly fatter O-ring (the size that is a standard measurement which is slightly thicker than the one you used). I'm curious what your thoughts are on that. Also, do you have any advice about how to troubleshoot if the timing chain seems a bit slack even after the tensioner is changed? Thanks! 🙂
Brilliant! A lot simpler job than my last chain + tensioner job (2010) on my OM603, 6cyl Benz Diesel. Thanks for great tips.
Thank you for this video! I changed my valve cover gasket today to stop a leak only to realize it was the tensioner o-ring.
I ran out for the part, and your video really helped me do the job without damaging my engine.
You rock!
Thank you for your diy tutorials. I watched your other video on how to fix oil leaks on the solenoid and camshaft positioning sensor and it worked great. Unfortunately I watched someone else’s diy video for this and didn’t mentioned about TDC. You think I messed something up not following the instructions about the TDC? I will be replacing the tensioner itself in hopes of fixing the rattling engine noise and hopefully will be able to duplicate what you did from setting the crankshaft to TDC to releasing the hook. This noise started just last week about 2-3 months after replacing the o ring and was wondering if that has something to do with not setting the crankshaft to tdc before removing it?
the absolute best automotive repair DIY
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I have a leaking timing cover and was wondering what the process is to remove/install the harmonic balancer and timing chain tensioner to avoid the chain form jumping?
Should the harmonic balancer be removed(using impact gun) before the timing chain tensioner as this would mean that the chain is tensioned and it's safer if the engine were to rotate?
I've seen some people use zip tie to tension the chain on the exhaust sprocket to avoid the chain to skip during the work. Any advice regarding this? Should I zip tie it before removing the tensioner? When should I remove the zip tie? After rotating the crankshaft counter clockwise to dislodge the hook on the tensioner and then clockwise to engage the tensioner? Lastly I'm thinking of tightening the harmonic balancer once the tensioner is engaged.
Thank you so much for your great video🌹👍
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
❤
The best repair video I've ever seen, thanks
Thank you, and thanks for watching - Happy New Year! : )
Holy crap! This is the best DIY car repair video I have EVER seen on TH-cam. Thank you SO MUCH for putting the time and effort into making this. The notes and annotations we super helpful. Yeah it's long, but 100 out of 100 times I'd rather be able to fast forward the parts I don't need than have incomplete instructions. Please keep making these, especially for 1ZZ-FE engines!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
This is the work I need in my 2006 Corolla with 285K km…the engine is soaked in oil from behind by where the timing chain tensioner and wet oil on ignition coil so valve cover gasket needs to be replace for sure, I’ve notice when I replaced the spark plugs….after watching your video I’m less intimidated to do it myself….thanks for your video.
You can do it!! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
this is the best video that I have ever seen . i have a 2002 toyota corolla with the same engine it has a misfire on cylinder 1 and 3 I have chandged everything coils ,injectors,spark plugs,check for vacuum leakes, and redid timing change I have fuel and spark and I still have the same problem please let me know if you have any idea on what it is thanks
Aw man, I'm sorry that's happening to you - have you checked compression on those cylinders?
Great job!! Excellent video!!
Thank you, and thanks for watcing! : )
A friend, a question, what made that car come out of time?and what was the fault it had?
This timing on this car is correct - it did not jump timing. The video shows replacement of the timing belt tensioner and tensioner o-ring. It is possible for an engine to jump timing if the tensioner fails, but luckily that is not very common on this engine.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado thank
Great video! Very instructional! The videos that I have seen show tensioners being installed with a gasket in addition to the O-ring on newer models. Question is why is there so much pressure at that point?
What a fantastic and detailed video! Very nice work and thank you for taking the time to create that for us.
-Cheers
Sam from Keystone, Colorado 😊
Keystone, CO - nice! I was driving Loveland Pass last week!
Thanks for watching : )
I want to congratulate you for this video. It is amazing what you did here. Attention to detail, knowledge. My respects. Subscribed😊
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If I do this job, I will soak the O-ring in 303 Space Age Protectant. It should last forever after that.
It's worth a shot! Thanks for watching : )
Wow, super explanation on this entire process, really enjoyed seeing your video. Very meticulous, thanks so much!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video, like I’m sitting in classroom watching your explanations. You earned my subscription.
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Lovely voice, I must say. Great and informative video. Whilst I have the 2ZZ GE engine, the tips are awesome.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I was able to do it without rotating the crankshaft at all. Just with a long narrow flathead screwdriver I was able to reach down and push in the tensioner enough to extend it.
you made the best one ever to repair and install chain tensioner
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Best video so far I have seen about Toyota Celica tensioner reinstallation/reactivation, detailed and explained clearly why Toyota procedure calls for counter-clockwise procedure! Well done!
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Very nice presentation. Toyota should hire you .
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what you do with the timing chain tensioner was the great help I know you change the timing chain itself on that motor I can use all the torque specs on it I would appreciate it
Wow that was nice
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Great Video very in detail..
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Thank you for the nice video
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