The wear on that portion of the front driveline is typical for a 4x4 that the front axle (driveline) is constantly turning. Much later Colemans after the closed cake pan series had Warn Locking Hubs. They accomplished this by the front axle shaft being splined at both ends. Also could this have accounted for what you thought was brake grabbing on the front axle? The de-clutching mechanism actually engaging the transfer case, because of all that slop?
Totally agreed that this is most likely from the front axle constantly spinning- but definitely before I got it. The former owners had it on the "deferred maintenance plan", where they deferred all the maintenance to me haha... I have plans to emulate a later Coleman lockout hub on this axle as an experiment, I have a later-model Coleman lockout axle as a template and several Warn lockout mechanisms to build to. I can confidently say this slop doesn't have anything to do with the brake problem from the trip. First, I found that problem was inside the master cylinder and I sorted it out. Second, I had to shorten the front axle driveshaft at the start of the trip because the truck had incorrect leaf springs on it at the time, throwing off the geometry. So the shortened driveshaft wasn't balanced and wouldn't stand for speeds higher than 25-30mph. So the front driveshaft was on the truck for probably 13 miles out of the whole trip and all of it offroad at slow speeds.
Yeah, I briefly mentioned the possiblility of an oversized bearing in the video, but I haven't started hunting one down yet. Hopefully there's one available in this size range! I'll see what my machinist thinks first, but that may be the way to go. Especially since building that surface up with weld to machine down again would be tough, but I bet IC Weld could do it if anyone could...
Hopefully you can find a cup that is just a tad bigger in OD than your wallowed out housing. And it's a common size cup that everyone stocks. I know, but a guy can dream right.
RC680 cylindrical locking compound in that clearance and preloading bearing set to hopefully centralize it curing in the worn bore I'd give a 85% chance of permanent fix. Zero end play lash and micro preload adjusted via gaskets/shims.
Great video as always!!! Just looking at Mr. Marion's comment it does seem off that there's no shims on that declutcher assembly. How are you supposed to adjust the preload of theres no shims? Is it possible they're missing?
Absolutely! Go check out my reply to Mr. Marion, but yeah they were either never there or they were missing by the time I got it. I'll be getting some custom cut when I get the other machine work done since OG shims are made of "unobtainium".
From my limited experience with gears and shafts, the double tapered roller bearing setup in your T32 would need some way to set the preload/lash on the bearings. Even precision ground castings would not take into account needing to re-adjust preload after a period of wear. In my experience, such a design would include very thin shims stacked to adjust casting dimensions to the correct preload for the double tapered bearings. (I know shims are used to set bearing preloads on ring & pinion assembly for Case 580 B, C, D, & E backhoe rearends. The mechanics complained about it being a trial and error pain to get adjusted correctly.) Great video and too bad for the HOA. 😉
I found shims like I mentioned above in the Meritor T-32 parts catalog you linked. In the exploded schematic on page 3, the shims are part #157 (a package consisting of three 0.003" shims, three 0.005" shims, and four 0.010" shims). I have no idea how you would measure for correct preload on double taper roller bearings. BTW, is your case a model T-32-13? (case has front input and output w/declutch, no rear input, or no intergrated brakes). The parts catalog says that model was released in Mar '51, but was superseded with model T-32-46 in Aug '63. (The parts schematic list #86 as the model number tag located at top of main case on side of the square part.) Hope this helps some.
@@marionstorm9004 All of this is stuff I wished I'd mentioned in the video since I typically started tearing stuff apart and hit record wirth no script, I often find myself leaving stuff out that I forgot to touch on. This T32 is an earlier version, I believe it's a "13". When I tore it down initially all the declutcher had was a thing paper gasket, and I was surprised there were no shims. Half of my plan to deck the surface of the housing includes having shims CNC cut for it. I imagine the preload would be similar to the preload of trunnion bearings (double tapered) and get in the neighborhood of 15-18 ft/lbs.
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The wear on that portion of the front driveline is typical for a 4x4 that the front axle (driveline) is constantly turning. Much later Colemans after the closed cake pan series had Warn Locking Hubs. They accomplished this by the front axle shaft being splined at both ends. Also could this have accounted for what you thought was brake grabbing on the front axle? The de-clutching mechanism actually engaging the transfer case, because of all that slop?
Totally agreed that this is most likely from the front axle constantly spinning- but definitely before I got it. The former owners had it on the "deferred maintenance plan", where they deferred all the maintenance to me haha...
I have plans to emulate a later Coleman lockout hub on this axle as an experiment, I have a later-model Coleman lockout axle as a template and several Warn lockout mechanisms to build to.
I can confidently say this slop doesn't have anything to do with the brake problem from the trip. First, I found that problem was inside the master cylinder and I sorted it out. Second, I had to shorten the front axle driveshaft at the start of the trip because the truck had incorrect leaf springs on it at the time, throwing off the geometry. So the shortened driveshaft wasn't balanced and wouldn't stand for speeds higher than 25-30mph. So the front driveshaft was on the truck for probably 13 miles out of the whole trip and all of it offroad at slow speeds.
See if they make a slightly bigger cup for your bearing set up. Then your machinist can bore the case out to fit, probably be the easiest.
Yeah, I briefly mentioned the possiblility of an oversized bearing in the video, but I haven't started hunting one down yet. Hopefully there's one available in this size range! I'll see what my machinist thinks first, but that may be the way to go. Especially since building that surface up with weld to machine down again would be tough, but I bet IC Weld could do it if anyone could...
Hopefully you can find a cup that is just a tad bigger in OD than your wallowed out housing. And it's a common size cup that everyone stocks. I know, but a guy can dream right.
RC680 cylindrical locking compound in that clearance and preloading bearing set to hopefully centralize it curing in the worn bore I'd give a 85% chance of permanent fix. Zero end play lash and micro preload adjusted via gaskets/shims.
Great video as always!!! Just looking at Mr. Marion's comment it does seem off that there's no shims on that declutcher assembly. How are you supposed to adjust the preload of theres no shims? Is it possible they're missing?
Absolutely! Go check out my reply to Mr. Marion, but yeah they were either never there or they were missing by the time I got it. I'll be getting some custom cut when I get the other machine work done since OG shims are made of "unobtainium".
From my limited experience with gears and shafts, the double tapered roller bearing setup in your T32 would need some way to set the preload/lash on the bearings. Even precision ground castings would not take into account needing to re-adjust preload after a period of wear. In my experience, such a design would include very thin shims stacked to adjust casting dimensions to the correct preload for the double tapered bearings. (I know shims are used to set bearing preloads on ring & pinion assembly for Case 580 B, C, D, & E backhoe rearends. The mechanics complained about it being a trial and error pain to get adjusted correctly.)
Great video and too bad for the HOA. 😉
I found shims like I mentioned above in the Meritor T-32 parts catalog you linked. In the exploded schematic on page 3, the shims are part #157 (a package consisting of three 0.003" shims, three 0.005" shims, and four 0.010" shims). I have no idea how you would measure for correct preload on double taper roller bearings.
BTW, is your case a model T-32-13? (case has front input and output w/declutch, no rear input, or no intergrated brakes). The parts catalog says that model was released in Mar '51, but was superseded with model T-32-46 in Aug '63. (The parts schematic list #86 as the model number tag located at top of main case on side of the square part.)
Hope this helps some.
@@marionstorm9004 All of this is stuff I wished I'd mentioned in the video since I typically started tearing stuff apart and hit record wirth no script, I often find myself leaving stuff out that I forgot to touch on. This T32 is an earlier version, I believe it's a "13". When I tore it down initially all the declutcher had was a thing paper gasket, and I was surprised there were no shims.
Half of my plan to deck the surface of the housing includes having shims CNC cut for it. I imagine the preload would be similar to the preload of trunnion bearings (double tapered) and get in the neighborhood of 15-18 ft/lbs.
"The HOA is gonna be stoked." Me: Fuck the HOA
Pretty much
You better be careful about running out of that 70 years or 7 million miles (whichever comes first) Coleman warranty....😂
Don't I know it! They haven't returned ANY of my calls.. haha
Maybe a visit in person to their corporate headquarters will help. I've heard it's in Littleton CO.
@@glenncourtney4876 hahaha been there, no one came to the door 🤣🤣
Wow