The oil meter is very accurate. I compared it with oil analysis. I run full synthetic Mobil 1 with the same in oil filters. Using the meter I have to change it between 6000 and 8000 depending on how I drive. Even at 8000, oil analysis still shows plenty of life left in the oil. For the oil filter, hand tight plus 1/8 turn with a wrench and it comes off easily. Also, use a ziploc bag around the filter when you spin it off and you won't spill any. Drain bolt should be tightened to 25 lb ft.
Bought a '23 6.4L with 10% oil life, Yeouch! I immediately picked up some 5w-20 (because 1500), got home and read the manual calling for 0w-40. Lol, im right there with you man.
Got a 2022 Ram 2500 4x4, I use mobil1 0w40 as intended, factory oil filter and I change the oil every 2500 to 3000 miles with synthetic oil. I have notice the oil gets dark at 3k. I would never change it at factory intervals. Love the truck.
Only filter removal tool Ill ever use is an old leather belt. Slip the belt through the buckle, then slide over your filter. You have to situate it in a way that it tightens counter clockwise as you pull on the belt. I can literally crush oil filters this way. It also allows you to get into tight places because its not rigid like a wrench. Leather works best because it grips the filter, even if its oily.
Here's a tip regarding the oil filter. I use a K&N. It has a welded on nut on the bottom so you can put a socket on it to get it off. I wish all oil filters had that. I would use a Wix oil filter if it had the nut. Best oil I found was Rotella gas truck 5w20. But haven't been able to get it lately so now I'm using Pennzoil platinum 5w20
I use a bigger filter when I do my oil change…Mobile 1 M1-212 or it’s Fram Ultra equivalent…same diameter just a little longer!..I agree with your oil change intervals of 5000 kms..
I go further with my oil changes.. when new my 6.4 came with Pennzoil 0W40 (natural gas refined) oil and I still use it with only Mopar oil filter. I use the truck's oil change meter to aid in monitoring the oil but never let it get to 0%. My truck does both normal and HD work so checking the oil after coming out of the bush is important. The only time I've changed the oil at close to 10000kms is after holidays traveling across Canada.
My first oil change was 2 trips to the store for tools. Oil filter was super tight as well. Nearly destroyed the filter getting it off. My second oil change is this weekend at 9800 miles. Love the PW.
I made the mistake of trusting the oil change meter on my 2017 Ram 1500, which ran it out to the maximum 10,000 mile mark for about 30,000 miles. Luckily those were almost all highway miles and I drive nice and gentle, so I'm thinking the oil was the least taxed it could have been. Still, it was only after that I learned about the dreaded HMI tick lifter/roller/cam issues, and I dropped my interval to 4,000 miles, per their "severe" service recommendation. Hopefully it can still live a looong and prosperous life. Fingers crossed!
You should be fine. highway miles are easy on the engine and doesn't break down oil as fast. but there is also nothing wrong with changing oil more frequently, if anything it will add to the longevity of the engine and keep it running for years.
6.7 cummins, Amsoil signature series synthetic I've been running 20,000 miles using oil analysts, Just installed a bypass filter that filters to 2 microns, this might help me extend even further. The numbers used to compare were from 7800 mile change intervals
I also use amsoil signature series but i have never done the oil change at 20k miles, i always do it around 7 or 8k mostly because i do a lot of towing.
First off, love your videos on the PW. It was you that convinced me to buy mine last week. Here's my question. In my wife's 300C 5.7 and my old Ram 1500 5.7, I went to conventional motor oil. That oil I found quieted the start up tick that drives me nuts. I just found the Hemi just sounds so much better and honestly, happier. I do change the oil every 4000 kms with standard motor oil. Here's my question, I would like to do the same with my 6.4. Thought?? My only vehicle I run full synthetic is in my 68 Charger with a 440. Only for the zinc content for flat tappet lifters. .. Again, thanks for your videos. Not sure I've seen conventional motor oil in 0 W 40 weight.
Love your videos man!!! I'm waiting to join the wagon family.. truck is being built!!! Can't wait. Keep up the good work maybe we can go off reading when mine gets here. I live in upstate NY.
Good day gentlemen. Nice and cold here in Manitoba. -30 Celsius today. Burrrr. With that being said the Hemi will always start 👍👍🥶. I personally change my 5.7 Hemi 1000 Kilometers Less that factory requirements. We do have idle time to warm it up in these cold temps. Cheers.
@@TheGettyAdventures Well I see you have come through back and fourth a few times, she cold and boring in the winter unless your ripping around in the truck a bit, or of course the basics with the kids sledding skating etc, but the summertime is golden here, we bought a decent 21 foot camper to tow with the ram, its only about 4500 pounds and wegot it hooked up with sway bars and all, but your videos as well as my wifes life experiences have us wanting to maybe take the leap and tow it out west next summer! Anyways great videos again man!
@@adamkillingbeck9031 came through last spring in April and it was -10. 2 days before it was 25 degrees in BC lol. but it is beautiful out west! and it's always fun towing through the mountains. really get to see the truck work!
@@ramrider1453 -30 is cold my friend! every now and again we get blessed with that cold of weather but not often. us softies down in Ontario like our -10 weather all winter!
I got a few free oil changes included with my purchase. I am about to hit 5k miles today and going to get the oil change as well as recall done next week. Oddly enough, when I asked the dealer if they could recalibrate my wheels for the new 37" wheels they said they cant do that?.... other dealers wanted $250-$500..... this is after I returned the RAM TAZER from Zauto since it gave me tooooooo many issues with the truck.
Thanks for the video, I was told that to change the oil every 15,000 miles on full synthetic oil. Changing your own oil doesn't mess up your warranty, to have them do it is 130.00 . I don't see why it cost so much, my 5.7 and 6.4 takes the same amount of oil (7) qts. The 5.7 cost less. Just had mine done and they put a sticker on it for 15, 000 miles later.
RAM's policy is if you keep your receipts and the oil, filter and oil change interval meet recommend interval then they will honor warranty. The 15K comes not from maximum longevity, but from statistical guarantee to make it out of warranty. If you want greater life than say a 100K warranty, change the oil at 5K as that's about when the oil is saturated with carbon and other deposit forming solids. It may have more capacity to retain in suspension but that's a good safe bet spot.
Around 20% my oil is about 6,000 miles in. Fine for me considering the SRT oil is $14 a quart. Not changing sooner than needed and not risking starving the lifters running other spec oils. Next time if you turn the wheels the steering links will be out of the way of the oil filter drain stream.
I agree with you on another video about not following the computer in regards to oil changes...mine also recommends 13k between changes but that’s way too much...I do mine at no more than 7k and then dump it with fresh oil and a Mobil 1 oil filter...the Fram ultras are really good too!
Not sure that has to do with oil but when the truck I drive falls on eco mode it seems like engine and transmission has a hard time. It vibrates a bit until it goes back on all 8 cylinders. ?
I just purchased a 2024 RAM with the 6.4, I called Mobil 1 and they told me Mobil does not make 0 W 40 for the 6.4. I had to order Pennzoil with the correct application for this motor??
Good luck with the Power Wagon. I own a 2014 Ram 2500 Big Horn w/ the 6.4. Only used Mobil 1 Synthetic and Wix XP filters. Recommend you get an oil filter socket so you can use a flexible ratchet. Also invest in a large plastic trash can lid to help catch oil splashes.
Good vid. One correction: You should NEVER be able to spin an oil filter off by hand when it's still in service. Spin it on as hard as you can by hand. Once in use it will tighten slightly and require a wrench to slightly break free. That's the proper way.
Sorry dude. Hand tight. That's it. Spins right off. I've have over a million miles with my own truck and trailer pulling oversize. Been doing it the same on big truck, rams, jeeps, cars. My dad has done it as well and he's almost 4 mil total in his own truck and trailer. I guess some people might not be very strong, but over tight a filter is very bad
I just changed the oil in my 6.4 hemi and used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0w/40 and it took all of the chirping when starting up the every time since i bought it.....try it it works
I have a question for you..what’s up with the 6.4 hemi squeaking noise during cold starts. I hear a lot of people complaining about it and just wanted to know what you think would be causing this?
My grandfather was a mechanic and worked on airplanes also. He was a firm believer in Mobil1 synthetic oil. He always recommended changing oil around 4000 miles with Mobil1. I know Dodge recommends Pennzoil ultra platinum for the new Hemi engine. I used Mobil1 in my third gen 2007 Hemi engine with no problems what so ever. Who ever thought about oil filter placement on the new Hemi 5.7 should be SHOT! What a pain in the ASS!!!!
Everyone’s mileage is different. Engine hours is a much more accurate determination for an oil change. If you sit in traffic and or idle a lot. You will have way more engine hours at 5 or 10,000 miles than a person who runs on the highway everyday. In the winter I will idle at work for atleast a half hour when I get there. Another 15 minutes before I leave to warm up the truck. That adds up. I change my synthetic every 5,000 or so because of this. Even though they say 10k is fine.
If you watch to many of these Videos you will be afraid to idle these Hemi's because of Lifter Damage! Crazy you pay 70.000 dollars for a Truck you can't idle so they say, I just know I'm not setting in a Truck when it's a 105 degrees outside and sweating my balls off! 😃
Does that Mobil 1 meet the Mopar spec?...from what I know, Pennzoil is the only one that has the MS-12633 designation...I have a 2014 PW with about 107k on it with no troubles and I’ve used the pennzoil SRT oil since new grudgingly...it’s great oil but the dealer is the only one who sells it...I have been on the forums and people are using 5W30 oil in their hemi’s with no troubles but a lot of people are switching to the Redline 0W40 oil saying that it’s the best oil for the engine because of its ester base and the fact it has lots of moly in it...I was thinking of switching to the Motomaster 5W30 domestic premium synthetic that I use on my 2020 F150 2.7 ecoboost considering the 6.4 was run through its paces with that oil during R and D so I figure it will work now...and the motomaster oil is really good oil and easy to get...what do you think??
Great videos about the Power wagon. So I’m new to Ram as well. I came from Toyotas and I’m slowly learning a lot about these HEMI’s. I see that you’re using Mobil1 instead of their recommended Pennzoil SRT with MS-12633. Are you worried that Mobil1 might cause issues down the road? I did my first oil change at 5k with Mobil thinking that they’re all the same but after reading up so much info, I realized why they have their own brand for SRT which has a Moly additive. I read it protects the cams and lifters. What do you think? Honestly I hate how expensive the PUP SRT oil cost. It was about $100 for 7 qts. So now here’s what I’ve been thinking of doing. Not sure if you know a lot about oil chemistry but I was thinking about going back to Mobil1 but buy a bottle of Liquimoly MoS2. Would that be the same thing?? I haven’t heard anyone talk about those two combos yet…
I mean I would just buy the recommended oil. From my understabd mobile 1 is one of the brands of oil that is accepted with these engines. Not the recommended brand but I find its always on sale and its a decent oil.
Chivas, I also found out Mobil-1 didn't have FCA's required Material Standard certification (MS-6395 for a 2017 5.7 L) until after four or five oil changes. But, after searching around the internet for people's thoughts on this, the consensus was that these MS certifications are simply extra tests the oil manufacturer has to pay to pass, so they can say they meet such and such spec, and they don't always choose to do so. At that point, you're basically relying on the quality and reputation of the oil manufacturer and hoping there wasn't any kind of "secret ingredient" that the MS needed. Based on finding no evidence of problems with Mobil-1 in any HEMI engines, I'm betting Mobil-1 is just fine, even though it doesn't have FCA's MS certifications.
You mentioned 7 quarts costing around $100. Amazon has the PUP SRT 0w-40, $47.70 for a 6 quart pack, $8.92 for a single quart, coming to around $56 for 7 quarts.
The filter was crazy tight on my 2021 6.4 from the factory, also if you let the oil drain out from the filter slowly it will all go down the drain hole. My wife drives a grand cherokee with the 5.7 and I was surprised how small the filter is on the 6.4 compared to the one on the 5.7, any insight? Thanks for the all the hemi videos
lol a lot of people have mentioned that their 6.4 filters were crazy tight from factory. they need to de-tune the robot that installs them down in Mexico. or better yet get a good old American from Detroit to put it on properly like they used to. as far as the filters, I would of liked to see a bigger filter on the 6.4 for better flow but at the end of the day as long as it does it's job then I can't complain!
Thanks for the great video. I always changed my own oil until I had an ugly oil "spill on the driveway" incident. I've started doing it again occasionally, but I always drive onto a large tarp first...so I don't learn that lesson again.
never a bad idea! when I didn't have a shop to go to I would use a piece of plywood. those were the days when a piece of plywood didn't cost it's weight in gold.
I just wrestled with my filter. Using a strap oil filter wrench is virtually impossible. Thankfully i must’ve loosened after trying to unscrew it for hours and it finally broke free.
I have. 2022 Ram 2500 6.4 hemi and I changed my oil for the first time at 1,000 miles, and I had to destroy the original factory oil filter to get it off!!
I haven't heard anyone mention adding a pint of Rislone Hy-per Lube Zinc additive with each oil change and changing your oil at 3000 miles if an effort to avoid any lifter issues.
Frequent oil changes are highly underrated...if you want your engine to last a long time then take that oil change interval recommended by the manufacturer and cut it in half...you are better off switching to a cheaper conventional oil and changing it twice as often than believing the hype about synthetic oils and how you can lengthen the interval...your engine burned the same amount of fuel and has pretty much the same amount of contaminants in the oil whether it’s conventional or synthetic and all that contamination is running through your engine regardless so my advice would be to get that contamination out more often...that was the killer for Ford and the power strokes...especially the 6.0l but really all of them...the HUEI injection systems on those 7.3 and 6.0 were very sensitive to dirty oil and were very problematic as a result...and the synthetics people were switching too was giving drivers a false sense of security with extended oil change intervals...it was merely a marketing ploy by the oil manufacturers...yes the oil was still retaining its ability to resist thermal breakdown and lubricate but what they weren’t telling you was the oil still had the contamination in it
I want to add a set of A-Pilar lights and swap out the factory accessorie switch’s with the break controller on it to the one with 4 extra switch buttons on it best way to add extra accessories
Thanks for the great video’s. I agree with you on it being to long to go by the oil life gauge. I have about 11,000 miles on my 2021 2500 6.4 and have changed the oil twice. Anyone out there feel a little shutter while at stop lights or just at idle? It’s not much but just enough to think about it. Seems like a new truck should idle smoothly.
The "shutter" is the transmission. Change the fluid. Use Redline or Amsoil. It also fixes the quirky downshift thing it does from second to first on occasion. The factory fill transmission fluid that I drained at 30K was wayyyyyy too dark with clutch material.
They mark the book recommended oil change lower then computer because most people don’t change there oil till light comes on but both are safe just if you go by light you should do it asap because your at the max they’d recommend to change by
@@TheGettyAdventures .. your forgetting something that is almost always over looked my good sir your engine produces condensation , which your oil will hold that is more or less why there is a time on the oil change intervals
If your thermostat works correctly the moisture in the oil is evaporated out once the engine comes up to temperature for a few minutes. Otherwise your engine will fail from acidic corrosion (thus why it's critical to block airflow in truly cold weather and get engine and transmission temps to spec). Water retention has nothing to do with oil change interval. TBN drives oil change interval as well as abilities to suspend solids. 5K miles is good rule of thumb. If you installed a bypass oil filtration system you can extend intervals with testing but not worth while because oil changes are so cheap.
I don't know if this is specific to the 2012 1500 or maybe a standard in Sweden, but whenever I get my oil changed on my 1500, they *always* change the drain plug o-ring. Come to think of it, it was the same with my motorcycle and I've heard many recommending doing that so it might be a standard among Swedish mechanics.
not a bad idea! I know with our Detroit diesel engines a new copper gasket comes with the new oil filter so you can change it every time. these drains plugs seem to just have a rubber gasket which can be re-used for the most part. the reason a copper gasket can't be reused it because it's crushed and won't regain it's shape like a rubber gasket will.
@@TheGettyAdventures had no idea about this copper vs rubber gasket, thought it was all rubber. Thanks for teaching this total mechanical illiterate another lesson!
I don't think Mobil 1 is an approved certified oil for the 6.4 FYI. Look in manual supposed to have a special chrysler certified oil for SRT engines. I run Penzoil Ultra Platnum in mine with a mopar filter.
i wouldnt use any 0-40, except penzoil 0-40 is specially formulated for the 6.4, and shears down very quickly to be effectively 0-30 but labeling it 0-40 allows penzoil to add diffrent additives and still be certified. in some thing, (cant remember what it was) That why a lot of people switch to Redline 0 or 5-30 cant remember. Thats what i read on forums, could be fake news.
not fake news! I heard penzoil is the best oil for these trucks (name brand oils at least) and like you said they make the oil specifically for the hemi. I'll be switching on my next oil change!
they don't put it in a obvious spot that's forsure. Like fords used to have their filters right beside the oil pan. a child could locate it. these hemi's you need like a diagnostic chart to find them lol
What's everyone's coolant temp running at on the 2019 6.4s and newer? Mine was running between 200 and 212 in the winter. Seemed normal to me. It now seems to barely get to 201. Stays between 185 and 199. Hangs around 194 most of the time. That is with running for longer than 30 minutes
@@TheGettyAdventures I wonder why it would get to 210 ish and then cool down to about 200 from the time I bought it in November till just about a month ago(May). It would literally stay between those numbers. Now it hangs around 194 and when it gets to 199 it cools down to 186. I never see it above 201 anymore. And now it's 90 degrees some days since it's almost summer. Seems weird to me
@@charlesarmstrong6482 It's a new truck things are all sort of meshing together. the thermostat could of been a little sticky and just needed to be worked in. maybe the temp sensor was reading a little low at first. I honestly wouldn't stress over the 10 degrees. could also be the ambient air temp and the truck was making sure at the cooler temps that the engine was warm before the thermostat opened up.
ahhh I mean probably could. It just scares me going that long with oil. maybe I'm stuck in the past but it was like hammered into me that you change your oil every 5k miles or 3 months. the one thing that people don't take into account is the build up of condensation in an engine, hence the 3 months change period. if you got a full year lets say, yes maybe the oil itself can hold up but what about all the condensation building up and mixing with the oil taking away some of it's lubrication properties. I'm sure manufactures put additives in the oil to help with this but it's something to consider!
I changed the oil in my 2018 5.7 hemi 2 days ago. I didn't prefill the filter like I usually do. When I fired up the engine it would run a few seconds then stall. I had to start it 4 times before it would run continuously. Is there a "low oil" sensor or something that would cause it to do something like that?
potentially, but you would have check engines light flashing all over the place if you have low oil pressure for any extended period of time. that is really weird though. was there any check engine lights?
@@TheGettyAdventures Nope, no lights or message of any kind. I wasn't looking at the oil pressure gauge so I can't say how it reacted. It kinda scared me because it has never failed to start on the first crank.
@@DangerClose13E I always prefill the filter too. I never dry start my engine. this is a good habit to get into, can't hurt. Oil pressure gauge always jumps right up to normal pressure. An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of money!
@@DangerClose13E that is strange. is there still warranty on the truck? if so I'd take it in. because to me it's a little crazy it didn't throw any codes
I drive a Lexus GX I do it every 6,000 miles I think that's good enough if I was all silly I'll probably do whatever $4,500 mi I do mix driving including trips out of state so 6,000 is my number The oil is fairly clean however when I hit 100,000 miles I will drop that down to 5,000 miles I got 60,000 miles on the car right now and I'm not burning a single drop
"I think that's good enough". Do an oil analysis on your next change and know for sure. You're probably right, but an analysis is an informative and fun way to learn about the life of your oil. Costs about 30 bucks I think and the lab will send you a small collection container and a return mailer. You, your mechanic or your quick-change oil tech can easily grab a few ounces in the container as the oil drains out. Send it in. Highly interesting information.
Great video. I’ve watched several videos that say synthetic oil will create sludge in engines that aren’t run for long distances/duration - do you have any thoughts on this theory? What do you think about running conventional oil in engines that call for synthetic oil - example, 5w20 instead of 0w20? Glad you’re feeling better bud, cheers.
I haven't personally heard that, but I would think that synthetic oil is much less likely to cause sludge in any situation. I could be wrong but I'll have to look into it! If the manufacturer recommends synthetic I would run it. I would imagine they have designed the engine based upon running synthetic oil. the oil tolerances on these new engines are very tight and running the wrong oil could cause some issues. now if it's an older engine, there's probably no issues as long as you are changing the conventional oil regularly
The factory recommended PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) is one of the cleanest oils I have ever seen. Even at 5000 miles it is still incredibly low in carbon compared to most oils. I have a hard time believing it leaves any deposits in comparison to a lesser oil.
The wife’s rav4 calls for 16k km oil changes. 4.5 litres of 0w20 in there for that long ? No thanks. I changed it every 8,000 km and she does 99% highway.
@@TheGettyAdventures oh it needs to be changed because of the emission systems on diesel engines. They fill the oil full of soot from the EGR. Cummins even says 7500 miles but the truck says 10,000. I think they put the same computer in all their vehicles.
@@Bigdaddyslasher pretty sure we run our 6.7's to like 12k miles or something. works out to be like every 6 months but that oil comes out black as night.
I like how a mechanic should be more scientific and pragmatic not emotional and this guy is like I’m not basing it off anything I’m just saying I feel like it’s too long based off of actual science measure the oil viscosity
I bought my 19 ram 1500 5.7 with 140 000km and I'm at 167 000km I hate the truck I've never changed the oil I beat the shit out of this piece of junk ram so I just abuse the piss out of it 😂 I'm going to see how long it'll last without a oil change and see what happens 😂 When the engine goes I'm send it to Buddy's wrecking yard going to have this 2019 ram big Horn crushed into a cube 🙂
Not only is the oil different from the 5.7. Chrysler actually calls for a specialized oil for the 6.4. Which is 0W-40 SRT. Stupid as shit cash grab for Penzoil
I mean yes and no. The synthetic oil yes can probably go for longer but the longer you run your oil the more moisture gets into it. I'm talking about condensation, every time you warm up your engine and it cools you get moisture forming. over the months the moisture increases and can potentially hinder the performance of any oil. Water moisture contamination in lube oils is one of the most destructive forms of engine corrosion second only to particle contamination (dirt). The presence of water exacerbates the particle contamination factors and can cause irreparable damage to the engine. Dissolved water molecules will coat any metal surface it finds within the engine. Under routine engine pressure and heat, this small amount of water can be stripped of its oxygen, which will chemically degrade the face of the metal (bearings and gears). This weakens the metal and microscopic flakes will begin to shed from the metal leading to particulates in the oil leading to gear corrosion. Now synthetic oil are more resistant to this but the same principle applies. As far as I'm aware you have to specifically test for moisture in oil as its a somewhat a unique process and different from your run of the mill oil sample. Is this going to affect your engine if you change your oil 3 times vs 2 times a year, probably not but if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a while why risk it. but that's just my opinion!
My wife is in the other room working, asked if I was watching Bert and Ernie, she said it sounds just like Ernie! I can't unhear it now!! :)
The oil meter is very accurate. I compared it with oil analysis. I run full synthetic Mobil 1 with the same in oil filters. Using the meter I have to change it between 6000 and 8000 depending on how I drive. Even at 8000, oil analysis still shows plenty of life left in the oil. For the oil filter, hand tight plus 1/8 turn with a wrench and it comes off easily. Also, use a ziploc bag around the filter when you spin it off and you won't spill any. Drain bolt should be tightened to 25 lb ft.
Bought a '23 6.4L with 10% oil life, Yeouch! I immediately picked up some 5w-20 (because 1500), got home and read the manual calling for 0w-40.
Lol, im right there with you man.
Got a 2022 Ram 2500 4x4, I use mobil1 0w40 as intended, factory oil filter and I change the oil every 2500 to 3000 miles with synthetic oil. I have notice the oil gets dark at 3k. I would never change it at factory intervals.
Love the truck.
I’m with you when it comes to how tight the oil filter was the first time I took it off I literally destroyed mine to get it off
just odd how tight it was lol maybe they don't lube the rubber O-ring in the factory lol who knows.
Only filter removal tool Ill ever use is an old leather belt. Slip the belt through the buckle, then slide over your filter. You have to situate it in a way that it tightens counter clockwise as you pull on the belt. I can literally crush oil filters this way. It also allows you to get into tight places because its not rigid like a wrench. Leather works best because it grips the filter, even if its oily.
Here's a tip regarding the oil filter. I use a K&N. It has a welded on nut on the bottom so you can put a socket on it to get it off. I wish all oil filters had that. I would use a Wix oil filter if it had the nut. Best oil I found was Rotella gas truck 5w20. But haven't been able to get it lately so now I'm using Pennzoil platinum 5w20
I use a bigger filter when I do my oil change…Mobile 1 M1-212 or it’s Fram Ultra equivalent…same diameter just a little longer!..I agree with your oil change intervals of 5000 kms..
I go further with my oil changes.. when new my 6.4 came with Pennzoil 0W40 (natural gas refined) oil and I still use it with only Mopar oil filter. I use the truck's oil change meter to aid in monitoring the oil but never let it get to 0%. My truck does both normal and HD work so checking the oil after coming out of the bush is important. The only time I've changed the oil at close to 10000kms is after holidays traveling across Canada.
My first oil change was 2 trips to the store for tools. Oil filter was super tight as well. Nearly destroyed the filter getting it off. My second oil change is this weekend at 9800 miles. Love the PW.
I wonder why they bolt on that filter so tight lol, It's probably a robot that does it down in mexico
I made the mistake of trusting the oil change meter on my 2017 Ram 1500, which ran it out to the maximum 10,000 mile mark for about 30,000 miles. Luckily those were almost all highway miles and I drive nice and gentle, so I'm thinking the oil was the least taxed it could have been. Still, it was only after that I learned about the dreaded HMI tick lifter/roller/cam issues, and I dropped my interval to 4,000 miles, per their "severe" service recommendation. Hopefully it can still live a looong and prosperous life. Fingers crossed!
You should be fine. highway miles are easy on the engine and doesn't break down oil as fast. but there is also nothing wrong with changing oil more frequently, if anything it will add to the longevity of the engine and keep it running for years.
6.7 cummins, Amsoil signature series synthetic I've been running 20,000 miles using oil analysts, Just installed a bypass filter that filters to 2 microns, this might help me extend even further. The numbers used to compare were from 7800 mile change intervals
oil analysts is such an under rated tool. it's a great way to keep your engine running well for many years!
I also use amsoil signature series but i have never done the oil change at 20k miles, i always do it around 7 or 8k mostly because i do a lot of towing.
That's the best setup.. period.
First off, love your videos on the PW. It was you that convinced me to buy mine last week.
Here's my question.
In my wife's 300C 5.7 and my old Ram 1500 5.7, I went to conventional motor oil. That oil I found quieted the start up tick that drives me nuts. I just found the Hemi just sounds so much better and honestly, happier.
I do change the oil every 4000 kms with standard motor oil.
Here's my question, I would like to do the same with my 6.4.
Thought??
My only vehicle I run full synthetic is in my 68 Charger with a 440. Only for the zinc content for flat tappet lifters.
.. Again, thanks for your videos.
Not sure I've seen conventional motor oil in 0 W 40 weight.
Love your videos man!!! I'm waiting to join the wagon family.. truck is being built!!! Can't wait. Keep up the good work maybe we can go off reading when mine gets here. I live in upstate NY.
Zajebiste auto i super prezentacja. Ekstra się oglądało
I find it interesting they say "don't exceed", but they don't have that hard limit programmed into the OLM algorithm...
Love the Wednesday night shop talks! Ram power baby
Cheers from Manitoba
Thank you sir! Love Manitoba, been many times!
Good day gentlemen. Nice and cold here in Manitoba. -30 Celsius today. Burrrr. With that being said the Hemi will always start 👍👍🥶. I personally change my 5.7 Hemi 1000 Kilometers Less that factory requirements. We do have idle time to warm it up in these cold temps. Cheers.
@@TheGettyAdventures Well I see you have come through back and fourth a few times, she cold and boring in the winter unless your ripping around in the truck a bit, or of course the basics with the kids sledding skating etc, but the summertime is golden here, we bought a decent 21 foot camper to tow with the ram, its only about 4500 pounds and wegot it hooked up with sway bars and all, but your videos as well as my wifes life experiences have us wanting to maybe take the leap and tow it out west next summer!
Anyways great videos again man!
@@adamkillingbeck9031 came through last spring in April and it was -10. 2 days before it was 25 degrees in BC lol. but it is beautiful out west! and it's always fun towing through the mountains. really get to see the truck work!
@@ramrider1453 -30 is cold my friend! every now and again we get blessed with that cold of weather but not often. us softies down in Ontario like our -10 weather all winter!
Use Pennzoil Ultra. Only Amsoil is better. Double the price though. Fram Ultra Synthetic is a great filter for a great price.
I got a few free oil changes included with my purchase. I am about to hit 5k miles today and going to get the oil change as well as recall done next week. Oddly enough, when I asked the dealer if they could recalibrate my wheels for the new 37" wheels they said they cant do that?.... other dealers wanted $250-$500..... this is after I returned the RAM TAZER from Zauto since it gave me tooooooo many issues with the truck.
Thanks for the video, I was told that to change the oil every 15,000 miles on full synthetic oil. Changing your own oil doesn't mess up your warranty, to have them do it is 130.00 . I don't see why it cost so much, my 5.7 and 6.4 takes the same amount of oil (7) qts. The 5.7 cost less. Just had mine done and they put a sticker on it for 15, 000 miles later.
Thats crazy. 15k miles is soo long between oil changes.
Steve it's because they really want to see you again.
@@ddo7802 Thanks for enlightening me, sometimes you just need a little help from a friend. 👍
RAM's policy is if you keep your receipts and the oil, filter and oil change interval meet recommend interval then they will honor warranty. The 15K comes not from maximum longevity, but from statistical guarantee to make it out of warranty. If you want greater life than say a 100K warranty, change the oil at 5K as that's about when the oil is saturated with carbon and other deposit forming solids. It may have more capacity to retain in suspension but that's a good safe bet spot.
Around 20% my oil is about 6,000 miles in. Fine for me considering the SRT oil is $14 a quart. Not changing sooner than needed and not risking starving the lifters running other spec oils. Next time if you turn the wheels the steering links will be out of the way of the oil filter drain stream.
Can thicker oil on the 6.4 help it for the cold starts, and make it quiter...someone says 5w/30 does just that????
I agree with you on another video about not following the computer in regards to oil changes...mine also recommends 13k between changes but that’s way too much...I do mine at no more than 7k and then dump it with fresh oil and a Mobil 1 oil filter...the Fram ultras are really good too!
Oil is cheaper than engines..... pay a little now or a lot later. .........
well said sir!
Not sure that has to do with oil but when the truck I drive falls on eco mode it seems like engine and transmission has a hard time. It vibrates a bit until it goes back on all 8 cylinders.
?
how often should the fuel filter be changed?
Hey Alex,I'm buying a 2017-ram-3500 with a 66rfe or 68rfe. My question is can I hot shot with that type of transmission?
I just purchased a 2024 RAM with the 6.4, I called Mobil 1 and they told me Mobil does not make 0 W 40 for the 6.4. I had to order Pennzoil with the correct application for this motor??
Good luck with the Power Wagon. I own a 2014 Ram 2500 Big Horn w/ the 6.4. Only used Mobil 1 Synthetic and Wix XP filters. Recommend you get an oil filter socket so you can use a flexible ratchet. Also invest in a large plastic trash can lid to help catch oil splashes.
Good vid. One correction: You should NEVER be able to spin an oil filter off by hand when it's still in service. Spin it on as hard as you can by hand. Once in use it will tighten slightly and require a wrench to slightly break free. That's the proper way.
Sorry dude. Hand tight. That's it. Spins right off. I've have over a million miles with my own truck and trailer pulling oversize. Been doing it the same on big truck, rams, jeeps, cars. My dad has done it as well and he's almost 4 mil total in his own truck and trailer. I guess some people might not be very strong, but over tight a filter is very bad
I just changed the oil in my 6.4 hemi and used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0w/40 and it took all of the chirping when starting up the every time since i bought it.....try it it works
Agree always change oil sooner
I have a question for you..what’s up with the 6.4 hemi squeaking noise during cold starts. I hear a lot of people complaining about it and just wanted to know what you think would be causing this?
I don't exactly know, but every 6.4L I've driven makes that same sort of sound. seems like It's a normal thing
My grandfather was a mechanic and worked on airplanes also. He was a firm believer in Mobil1 synthetic oil. He always recommended changing oil around 4000 miles with Mobil1. I know Dodge recommends Pennzoil ultra platinum for the new Hemi engine. I used Mobil1 in my third gen 2007 Hemi engine with no problems what so ever. Who ever thought about oil filter placement on the new Hemi 5.7 should be SHOT! What a pain in the ASS!!!!
Ya not really sure what they were thinking with that oil filter location lol. It's in a tough spot
Everyone’s mileage is different. Engine hours is a much more accurate determination for an oil change. If you sit in traffic and or idle a lot. You will have way more engine hours at 5 or 10,000 miles than a person who runs on the highway everyday. In the winter I will idle at work for atleast a half hour when I get there. Another 15 minutes before I leave to warm up the truck. That adds up. I change my synthetic every 5,000 or so because of this. Even though they say 10k is fine.
I'm right with you there. I usually change at about 5k give or take.
If you watch to many of these Videos you will be afraid to idle these Hemi's because of Lifter Damage! Crazy you pay 70.000 dollars for a Truck you can't idle so they say, I just know I'm not setting in a Truck when it's a 105 degrees outside and sweating my balls off! 😃
Does that Mobil 1 meet the Mopar spec?...from what I know, Pennzoil is the only one that has the MS-12633 designation...I have a 2014 PW with about 107k on it with no troubles and I’ve used the pennzoil SRT oil since new grudgingly...it’s great oil but the dealer is the only one who sells it...I have been on the forums and people are using 5W30 oil in their hemi’s with no troubles but a lot of people are switching to the Redline 0W40 oil saying that it’s the best oil for the engine because of its ester base and the fact it has lots of moly in it...I was thinking of switching to the Motomaster 5W30 domestic premium synthetic that I use on my 2020 F150 2.7 ecoboost considering the 6.4 was run through its paces with that oil during R and D so I figure it will work now...and the motomaster oil is really good oil and easy to get...what do you think??
I'd like to know how you got your skid control off in 2WD in your opening intro. My 2022 PW won't let me skid/drift....
Great videos about the Power wagon. So I’m new to Ram as well. I came from Toyotas and I’m slowly learning a lot about these HEMI’s. I see that you’re using Mobil1 instead of their recommended Pennzoil SRT with MS-12633. Are you worried that Mobil1 might cause issues down the road? I did my first oil change at 5k with Mobil thinking that they’re all the same but after reading up so much info, I realized why they have their own brand for SRT which has a Moly additive. I read it protects the cams and lifters. What do you think? Honestly I hate how expensive the PUP SRT oil cost. It was about $100 for 7 qts. So now here’s what I’ve been thinking of doing. Not sure if you know a lot about oil chemistry but I was thinking about going back to Mobil1 but buy a bottle of Liquimoly MoS2. Would that be the same thing?? I haven’t heard anyone talk about those two combos yet…
I mean I would just buy the recommended oil. From my understabd mobile 1 is one of the brands of oil that is accepted with these engines. Not the recommended brand but I find its always on sale and its a decent oil.
Chivas, I also found out Mobil-1 didn't have FCA's required Material Standard certification (MS-6395 for a 2017 5.7 L) until after four or five oil changes. But, after searching around the internet for people's thoughts on this, the consensus was that these MS certifications are simply extra tests the oil manufacturer has to pay to pass, so they can say they meet such and such spec, and they don't always choose to do so. At that point, you're basically relying on the quality and reputation of the oil manufacturer and hoping there wasn't any kind of "secret ingredient" that the MS needed. Based on finding no evidence of problems with Mobil-1 in any HEMI engines, I'm betting Mobil-1 is just fine, even though it doesn't have FCA's MS certifications.
You mentioned 7 quarts costing around $100. Amazon has the PUP SRT 0w-40, $47.70 for a 6 quart pack, $8.92 for a single quart, coming to around $56 for 7 quarts.
The filter was crazy tight on my 2021 6.4 from the factory, also if you let the oil drain out from the filter slowly it will all go down the drain hole. My wife drives a grand cherokee with the 5.7 and I was surprised how small the filter is on the 6.4 compared to the one on the 5.7, any insight? Thanks for the all the hemi videos
lol a lot of people have mentioned that their 6.4 filters were crazy tight from factory. they need to de-tune the robot that installs them down in Mexico. or better yet get a good old American from Detroit to put it on properly like they used to.
as far as the filters, I would of liked to see a bigger filter on the 6.4 for better flow but at the end of the day as long as it does it's job then I can't complain!
I was also surprised by the 6.4 filter being the size of a twin cylinder motorcycle oil filter!
Thanks for the great video. I always changed my own oil until I had an ugly oil "spill on the driveway" incident. I've started doing it again occasionally, but I always drive onto a large tarp first...so I don't learn that lesson again.
never a bad idea! when I didn't have a shop to go to I would use a piece of plywood. those were the days when a piece of plywood didn't cost it's weight in gold.
Ez Oil Drain
Worked at a dealership and we removed the oil fill cap before the drain plug to “get better flow” 😅
I just wrestled with my filter. Using a strap oil filter wrench is virtually impossible. Thankfully i must’ve loosened after trying to unscrew it for hours and it finally broke free.
Ever consider a relocation of the oil filter? Would like to see a video of you doing this.
I have. 2022 Ram 2500 6.4 hemi and I changed my oil for the first time at 1,000 miles, and I had to destroy the original factory oil filter to get it off!!
I think it's set differently for individual manufacturers. I have a 2016 accord and my reminder comes on about every 3,000 miles
I haven't heard anyone mention adding a pint of Rislone Hy-per Lube Zinc additive with each oil change and changing your oil at 3000 miles if an effort to avoid any lifter issues.
I swear Kermit is doing a voice over while your under the truck
What kind of antifreeze should the 6.4 take ?
Thank you for the PW videos!!
happy you are liking them!
Frequent oil changes are highly underrated...if you want your engine to last a long time then take that oil change interval recommended by the manufacturer and cut it in half...you are better off switching to a cheaper conventional oil and changing it twice as often than believing the hype about synthetic oils and how you can lengthen the interval...your engine burned the same amount of fuel and has pretty much the same amount of contaminants in the oil whether it’s conventional or synthetic and all that contamination is running through your engine regardless so my advice would be to get that contamination out more often...that was the killer for Ford and the power strokes...especially the 6.0l but really all of them...the HUEI injection systems on those 7.3 and 6.0 were very sensitive to dirty oil and were very problematic as a result...and the synthetics people were switching too was giving drivers a false sense of security with extended oil change intervals...it was merely a marketing ploy by the oil manufacturers...yes the oil was still retaining its ability to resist thermal breakdown and lubricate but what they weren’t telling you was the oil still had the contamination in it
I want to add a set of A-Pilar lights and swap out the factory accessorie switch’s with the break controller on it to the one with 4 extra switch buttons on it best way to add extra accessories
probably would look great!
I went with the AEV pod and it looks nice!
@@dingo3190 good to hear sir!
Thanks for the great video’s. I agree with you on it being to long to go by the oil life gauge. I have about 11,000 miles on my 2021 2500 6.4 and have changed the oil twice. Anyone out there feel a little shutter while at stop lights or just at idle? It’s not much but just enough to think about it. Seems like a new truck should idle smoothly.
My old 5.7 hemi did that (2017 ram 1500). But she ran great but ya when I first bought it at idle it felt a little unbalanced.
The "shutter" is the transmission. Change the fluid. Use Redline or Amsoil. It also fixes the quirky downshift thing it does from second to first on occasion. The factory fill transmission fluid that I drained at 30K was wayyyyyy too dark with clutch material.
I follow the oil change interval in all my truck manual and never had any issues. I'm not a engineer but if that's what is recommended...
can't argue with that! I just thought it was odd that the oil gauge would tell you to change your oil after the recommended service interval
They mark the book recommended oil change lower then computer because most people don’t change there oil till light comes on but both are safe just if you go by light you should do it asap because your at the max they’d recommend to change by
Alex I love this truck !!!! , what are your thoughts on the 5000 km or 3 months (whatever comes first ) saying ?
that's the best practice with conventual oil. with synthetic you can probably let that run a little longer 6-8k
@@TheGettyAdventures .. your forgetting something that is almost always over looked my good sir your engine produces condensation , which your oil will hold that is more or less why there is a time on the oil change intervals
@@tbup-north8718 a world of knowledge you have my man! great point
If your thermostat works correctly the moisture in the oil is evaporated out once the engine comes up to temperature for a few minutes. Otherwise your engine will fail from acidic corrosion (thus why it's critical to block airflow in truly cold weather and get engine and transmission temps to spec). Water retention has nothing to do with oil change interval. TBN drives oil change interval as well as abilities to suspend solids. 5K miles is good rule of thumb. If you installed a bypass oil filtration system you can extend intervals with testing but not worth while because oil changes are so cheap.
I don't know if this is specific to the 2012 1500 or maybe a standard in Sweden, but whenever I get my oil changed on my 1500, they *always* change the drain plug o-ring. Come to think of it, it was the same with my motorcycle and I've heard many recommending doing that so it might be a standard among Swedish mechanics.
not a bad idea! I know with our Detroit diesel engines a new copper gasket comes with the new oil filter so you can change it every time. these drains plugs seem to just have a rubber gasket which can be re-used for the most part. the reason a copper gasket can't be reused it because it's crushed and won't regain it's shape like a rubber gasket will.
@@TheGettyAdventures had no idea about this copper vs rubber gasket, thought it was all rubber. Thanks for teaching this total mechanical illiterate another lesson!
I don't think Mobil 1 is an approved certified oil for the 6.4 FYI. Look in manual supposed to have a special chrysler certified oil for SRT engines. I run Penzoil Ultra Platnum in mine with a mopar filter.
i wouldnt use any 0-40, except penzoil 0-40 is specially formulated for the 6.4, and shears down very quickly to be effectively 0-30 but labeling it 0-40 allows penzoil to add diffrent additives and still be certified. in some thing, (cant remember what it was) That why a lot of people switch to Redline 0 or 5-30 cant remember. Thats what i read on forums, could be fake news.
not fake news! I heard penzoil is the best oil for these trucks (name brand oils at least) and like you said they make the oil specifically for the hemi. I'll be switching on my next oil change!
Old oil is a hemi killer , synthetic oil 5k miles . Oils cheap . These engines aren’t . Also pony up and run redline oil and a srt filter .
FYI... Mobil 1 0w40 does NOT meet Chrysler's required specs. It's in the manual (which nobody reads).
Good job, dude!
When I changed my oil the first time I had a hell of a time trying to locate where the oil filter was
they don't put it in a obvious spot that's forsure. Like fords used to have their filters right beside the oil pan. a child could locate it. these hemi's you need like a diagnostic chart to find them lol
What's everyone's coolant temp running at on the 2019 6.4s and newer? Mine was running between 200 and 212 in the winter. Seemed normal to me. It now seems to barely get to 201. Stays between 185 and 199. Hangs around 194 most of the time. That is with running for longer than 30 minutes
Honestly mines about the same hangs below 200 most of the time.
@@TheGettyAdventures I wonder why it would get to 210 ish and then cool down to about 200 from the time I bought it in November till just about a month ago(May). It would literally stay between those numbers. Now it hangs around 194 and when it gets to 199 it cools down to 186. I never see it above 201 anymore. And now it's 90 degrees some days since it's almost summer. Seems weird to me
@@charlesarmstrong6482 It's a new truck things are all sort of meshing together. the thermostat could of been a little sticky and just needed to be worked in. maybe the temp sensor was reading a little low at first. I honestly wouldn't stress over the 10 degrees. could also be the ambient air temp and the truck was making sure at the cooler temps that the engine was warm before the thermostat opened up.
How much would you add once the dip stick is at "add"?
Typically on a normal sized gas engine 1 qt is the differance between add and full. On a diesel pickup typically 2 qts.
@@joshpodolsky7740 I appreciate the info, I got a 5.7 hemi, but I know a few people with diesels.
Run Amsoil and you Can do 25K miles wile using there filter! 100% synthetic!!!
ahhh I mean probably could. It just scares me going that long with oil. maybe I'm stuck in the past but it was like hammered into me that you change your oil every 5k miles or 3 months.
the one thing that people don't take into account is the build up of condensation in an engine, hence the 3 months change period. if you got a full year lets say, yes maybe the oil itself can hold up but what about all the condensation building up and mixing with the oil taking away some of it's lubrication properties. I'm sure manufactures put additives in the oil to help with this but it's something to consider!
I changed the oil in my 2018 5.7 hemi 2 days ago. I didn't prefill the filter like I usually do. When I fired up the engine it would run a few seconds then stall. I had to start it 4 times before it would run continuously. Is there a "low oil" sensor or something that would cause it to do something like that?
potentially, but you would have check engines light flashing all over the place if you have low oil pressure for any extended period of time. that is really weird though. was there any check engine lights?
@@TheGettyAdventures Nope, no lights or message of any kind. I wasn't looking at the oil pressure gauge so I can't say how it reacted. It kinda scared me because it has never failed to start on the first crank.
@@DangerClose13E I always prefill the filter too. I never dry start my engine. this is a good habit to get into, can't hurt. Oil pressure gauge always jumps right up to normal pressure. An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of money!
@@stevelapointe140 The filter position on the 5.7 is awful. I have to angle it so much that any oil is liable to just dump out before I screw it on.
@@DangerClose13E that is strange. is there still warranty on the truck? if so I'd take it in. because to me it's a little crazy it didn't throw any codes
What about Transmission Oil Intervals?
4k miles for a lot of short drives, and high idling. 5k for regular driving.
I wouldgive up that swaybar disconnect for the room to get at the filter,
I mean I havent used it since I bought this truck lol
I drive a Lexus GX I do it every 6,000 miles I think that's good enough if I was all silly I'll probably do whatever $4,500 mi I do mix driving including trips out of state so 6,000 is my number The oil is fairly clean however when I hit 100,000 miles I will drop that down to 5,000 miles I got 60,000 miles on the car right now and I'm not burning a single drop
"I think that's good enough". Do an oil analysis on your next change and know for sure. You're probably right, but an analysis is an informative and fun way to learn about the life of your oil. Costs about 30 bucks I think and the lab will send you a small collection container and a return mailer. You, your mechanic or your quick-change oil tech can easily grab a few ounces in the container as the oil drains out. Send it in. Highly interesting information.
always fill filter with oil before installing ...
the meter is 8000 miles, I change at 5k, approx 37% on the meter. Too soon, maybe, but living in the desert with fine silt....yeah...
Great video. I’ve watched several videos that say synthetic oil will create sludge in engines that aren’t run for long distances/duration - do you have any thoughts on this theory? What do you think about running conventional oil in engines that call for synthetic oil - example, 5w20 instead of 0w20? Glad you’re feeling better bud, cheers.
I haven't personally heard that, but I would think that synthetic oil is much less likely to cause sludge in any situation. I could be wrong but I'll have to look into it!
If the manufacturer recommends synthetic I would run it. I would imagine they have designed the engine based upon running synthetic oil. the oil tolerances on these new engines are very tight and running the wrong oil could cause some issues. now if it's an older engine, there's probably no issues as long as you are changing the conventional oil regularly
The factory recommended PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) is one of the cleanest oils I have ever seen. Even at 5000 miles it is still incredibly low in carbon compared to most oils. I have a hard time believing it leaves any deposits in comparison to a lesser oil.
The wife’s rav4 calls for 16k km oil changes. 4.5 litres of 0w20 in there for that long ? No thanks. I changed it every 8,000 km and she does 99% highway.
nothing wrong with that!
platinum or ultra platinum
I usually change it before it gets down to 50% oil life
I have a 2021 2500 hemi and I change the oil every 3 to 4000 miles no matter what anybody says. And I use synthetic oil.
She'll be a clean running engine thats forsure. I mean no harm can come changing your oil early!
I change my oil every 7500 miles in my 6.7 Cummins and I run fully synthetic oil.
Much more oil in the cummins so you don't need to change it as often.
@@TheGettyAdventures oh it needs to be changed because of the emission systems on diesel engines. They fill the oil full of soot from the EGR. Cummins even says 7500 miles but the truck says 10,000. I think they put the same computer in all their vehicles.
@@Bigdaddyslasher pretty sure we run our 6.7's to like 12k miles or something. works out to be like every 6 months but that oil comes out black as night.
@@TheGettyAdventures I drive too much no way I can go 6 months. Can't wait to delete it.
Oil drain bolt: 25 ft lbs. Not good and tight, not contact and quarter turn, 25 ft lbs. Torque specs are there for good reason.
Out of the thousands of drain plugs I've tightened I haven't torqued a single one. It'll be just fine.
@@TheGettyAdventures same here sir.
I change my oil every 5K miles or 6 months on synthetic whatever occurs first .
great way to go about it!
Fram filter? 😮
I like how a mechanic should be more scientific and pragmatic not emotional and this guy is like I’m not basing it off anything I’m just saying I feel like it’s too long based off of actual science measure the oil viscosity
I do full synthetic every 3k mile
nice
thank ya!
I usually change it when the dash life says 3500 miles
not a bad way to go about it!
Awesome!! First
yes you are!
Love it!
The computer is a lot smarter than you think. It’s goes off of time and rpm, temp
I would assume that but something as critical as oil it seems like way too long of intervals
Don't go all the way to 0% I went to around 30% and it was about 5500miles
not a bad idea. I usually end up changing the oil around 40% ish left.
5K
I bought my 19 ram 1500 5.7 with 140 000km and I'm at 167 000km I hate the truck I've never changed the oil I beat the shit out of this piece of junk ram so I just abuse the piss out of it 😂 I'm going to see how long it'll last without a oil change and see what happens 😂 When the engine goes I'm send it to Buddy's wrecking yard going to have this 2019 ram big Horn crushed into a cube 🙂
Not only is the oil different from the 5.7.
Chrysler actually calls for a specialized oil for the 6.4. Which is 0W-40 SRT. Stupid as shit cash grab for Penzoil
5000 mi
when its hot its LESS viscous
did I say "More" ? sometimes I mix up my words my apologies
OH NO!!! NO MOBIL OIL!!!!! ITS NOT CERTIFIED!!!
Yea for good wives. 👍
They come in clutch!
4k miles change your oil ..don't be cheap
I do mine at 5k (kilometers). That's 3,100 miles it hurts the wallet.
eww mobile 1
Modern synthetic oil will perform well for the recommended mileage. You are wasting money to change early. Have your oil analyzed snd learn
I mean yes and no. The synthetic oil yes can probably go for longer but the longer you run your oil the more moisture gets into it. I'm talking about condensation, every time you warm up your engine and it cools you get moisture forming. over the months the moisture increases and can potentially hinder the performance of any oil. Water moisture contamination in lube oils is one of the most destructive forms of engine corrosion second only to particle contamination (dirt). The presence of water exacerbates the particle contamination factors and can cause irreparable damage to the engine.
Dissolved water molecules will coat any metal surface it finds within the engine. Under routine engine pressure and heat, this small amount of water can be stripped of its oxygen, which will chemically degrade the face of the metal (bearings and gears). This weakens the metal and microscopic flakes will begin to shed from the metal leading to particulates in the oil leading to gear corrosion. Now synthetic oil are more resistant to this but the same principle applies. As far as I'm aware you have to specifically test for moisture in oil as its a somewhat a unique process and different from your run of the mill oil sample.
Is this going to affect your engine if you change your oil 3 times vs 2 times a year, probably not but if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a while why risk it. but that's just my opinion!