Voron 0.1 Tips, Tricks, and Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video, I cover several topics that I hope will help you use your Voron 0.1 more effectively, offering some tips and tricks. I also go over several things to keep an eye on in terms of maintenance. Scroll down for specific sections in case you jump to anything specific. Thanks for watching, please like and subscribe if you find my content helpful! Please leave a comment if you have any other tips or tricks as well!
Learn more about the Voron 0.1 here:
vorondesign.co...
0:47 - Leveling the bed using Gcode
2:09 - Setting up Preheat Presets
2:39 - Bed Leveling: Bed Screws GCode
3:44 - Bed Leveling: Checking positions using a paper sheet
6:31 - Bed Leveling manually by jogging controls
7:48 - Surfaces- Properly cleaning your print surface (Smooth and Textured PEI)
8:10 - Surfaces- Using a purple glue stick as a release agent
8:30 - Surfaces- Cleaning print surface with dish soap
9:08 - Surfaces- Using IPA in between prints to keep surface clean
9:43 - Rail Maintenance- aligning and cleaning rails
10:18 - Cleaning with compressed air
11:11 - Rail Maintenance- Adjusting X rail
11:57 - Using Grease and Oil Lubes
13:18 - Rail Maintenance - Applying Oil to Rails
14:39 - Lead Screw Maintenance - Applying Grease to Lead Screw
16:37 - Proper positioning for Z endstop screw
17:53 - Inspecting Y axis / gantry racking
18:27 - Filament Loading Tension
19:52 - Filament Loading
20:56 - Filament Gode Macros
21:24 - Filament Unloading
21:53 - Filament- Manual Filament Loading
22:18 - Filament - Using a Shimmy Bin
22:37 - Fans - Regular inspect / test fans
23:15 - Closing
Notable products mentioned:
Amazon Affiliate Links (please use these- it helps me out!). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Synthetic Lube:
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Synthetic Oil:
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Blue Permatex:
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Purple Gluestick:
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Isopropyl Alcohol (Spray Bottle):
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3d Printing Shirt:
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Voron 0.1 Build Sheet (Smooth PEI / Textured PEI):
deepfriedhero....
Shimmy Bin, by Clockspring:
www.myminifact...
My Voron 0.1 Build Series Playlist:
• Voron 0.1 Build Series...
not sure with mainsail but with fluidd during level_bed, you can just click adjust, accept, etc... displayed in the console, then send.
Thanks for the vid. Ideas for content that I would like to see:
1. Applying loctite to screws if you did not do it in the build.
2. Adding an OLED display to rasp. Pi
3. Quickest routine for nozzle changes.
4. Using pruserslicer with voron 0.1 and different material settings
5. Adding a webcam
Great stuff, keep them coming 👍
Thanks for watching, and really appreciate the ideas!! I will add those into my idea hopper. I do have plans for the OLED display (it's been sitting on my desk for a month now.. lol) and I do have some content on the loctite screws in my build series though I could see maybe doing another "Tricks and tips" video and adding it to that as well so it's easier to find, along with your other ideas... All great stuff! Thanks again.
For some reason, no matter what colour combination, voron always looks good.
good design looks good you know :)
You should add bed heating to your level bed macro.
Just got mine "going" today, thanks for all the info!
woops. am i supposed to leave that orange rubber cover on the dragon hotend?
Yes… that cover (aka sock) helps keep the hot end insulated/warm when the part cooling fan blows, allowing it to more easily hold temps than if it isn’t on.
Good stuff. Thanks Greg 😀
Thanks for talking about the rail grinding. I've noticed this on my V0.1, and wasn't sure what was causing it.
Glad it helped.. and thanks for the comment! That grinding was annoying! I found that I had to tweak my rail a few times to get rid of it. Best of luck.
Another helpful video. Where can I find the Bed_screws macro? I've searched many times but have yet to find it.
Or do I have to just copy it from the screen?
Thanks for the comment and watching! You can view my Bed_screws macro in my Voron 0.2 config file, which I have on my Github. This one is pretty/simple basic but works great for me. github.com/techyg/VoronPrinterConfigs/blob/main/Voron02/printer.cfg
Thank you. I have found your Voron 0.1 videos extremely helpful during my build. I will be upgrading it to 0.2 in future so I will be back.@@GregsMakerCorner
@@paulstephenson5311 That's great to hear! The Voron 0.2 is a nice upgrade, and I'm sure you will enjoy it, but I am sure you will get some great use out of the v01 until you are ready!! Thanks again for the comment and watching.
I'm suprised you don't use a bare metal plate for use with your glues or slurrys. Personally I don't have an issue with PEI/PEX from Wham Bam when printing PLA, PETG, Nylon, or ABS. I don't print TPU so I couldn't say how effective it is.
Thank you for this video, helped me to solve some issues!
Great to hear- thanks for watching and commenting!
Have you considered leveling your bed with a feeler gauge? May not need to since its a small bed.
Yes, I do have a set of feeler gauges. They are nice to have! I will occasionally use those but I've found the paper method to work good enough (and I can always find paper, sometimes I forget where I put my feeler gauges.. lol)
@@GregsMakerCorner ah, yes, I know what you mean about forgetting things. I place stuff down while looking for something else, and have to find it again.
Thanks Greg! That was really helpful.
My pleasure! And thanks for the idea- I hope you saw I gave you credit at the end. :)
@@GregsMakerCorner I did! Very much appreciated!
Awesome t-shirt!
Hah.. thanks! My wife got it for me. (I'll add a link to the description... found it on Amazon)
What ABS did you use for your aqua/teal V0.1 parts?
It is Inland ABS. I got it at Microcenter in store, but you can also find it on Amazon. It’s technically just green but it does look more teal to me as well. :)
thanks for this video, it's really informative. I'm still on the fence about building a Voron 0. Watching this, it would seem the printer is more fiddly than I imagined, after years of hacking and modding my Ender3 I got a Prusa because I want the ease-of-use so I can focus on designing. I'm a bit reluctant to go back to constantly tinkering with a printer. Is that a fair assessment of the Voron though? I don't mind putting in the work to set one up and tune it, but after that I'm hoping it mostly just works quietly.
Great question.. I think it's fair to say that once you have it up and running, you don't really need to fiddle with it too much beyond typical maintenance (oiling rails, cleaning filament bits out, etc.). The rail alignment on my machine has been good after I retightened them (as shown in the video), so it was probably something that I didn't have on quite right when I built it. I have found that the reliability of my V0 is similar to my Prusa Mini, which I think is quite good- as long as the machine is put together well from the beginning.
@@GregsMakerCorner thanks so much for that fast answer, also double kudos for that Prusa Mini comparison, that's a good ball park. It looks like I got the context of your video wrong then, this was a "how to tune" more than a "how to maintain". Leaning more towards the build now.
The paper leveling concept is fundamentally flawed. You are practically leveling Y0.0 to not touch the bed. When the first layer will start at say Y0.2 you’ll be at Y0.2+your paper. This is wrong. Get a 0.2 feeler gauge and level Y0.2 to exactly touch it. Then and only then will you have a perfect first layer every time.
To compensate for the additional height needed using the paper method, you will be fine tuning the z-height and storing this setting in your printer.cfg file. This is explained in the "Fine Tuning" section of the Initial Startup for the Voron / Klipper documentation. It can be done manually or adjusted via controls, and saved with SAVE_CONFIG. While a feeler gauge may in fact be more accurate, (and I do have a set) there is nothing "wrong" with the paper method + adding the offset and the majority of users will have no issues with this approach.
@@GregsMakerCorner My personal issue with the paper is that it "compresses" so you practically don't really know what you're setting (I've used paper for very long, but always had to tweak the z-offset afterwards)... the "dragging enough" is not really a precise unit :D I never have to fine tune with the feeler gauge... set Z to 0.2, pop in the feeler gauge, drop the gantry/raise the bed so it touches... done. What's the point otherwise if you need to juggle with the z-offset afterwards?
@@GregsMakerCorner Another method I sometimes use if I want to be really precise and want to really fine tune things is to print a 0.2 layer height line (like a purge line), remove the print from the bed, measure the thickness of the line (let's say it's 0.23mm), then I add 0.03 to the z-offset... then I'm really really done with the calibration :) But really, I never do that except when I'm printing something face down and the face needs to be really nicely printed (like the stealthburner cover on a non-textured bed :D).
@@The-Weekend-Warrior Yeah, fair enough! I am getting ready to add a Clicky probe (which is probably overkill) so none of it will really matter too much.. But I think you have some good thoughts on getting the perfect layer. I also like using a dial indicator mount to help ensure a flatter bed, but that's a whole other topic!
@@GregsMakerCorner Oh indeed... bed "flatness" is also a myth. People would be surprised how much a bed can "move" while heating or cooling down and due to that constant cycle over weeks, it becomes everything but flat :D I switched to a 7x7 point bed mesh measuring before every print :D Of course, this is on a larger and way thinner bed. The V0 has the clear advantage of a very thick and smaller bed.