MUST-HAVE Voron 0.1 Mods and Upgrades
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
- Let's review the must-have upgrades and mods for any voron 0 owners. I've installed and tested pretty much all of them and these are my favorite ones to improve the general usability of the printer and print quality.
Cheap & quick PCB, 3D Print, CNC machining, and fabrication services: www.pcbway.com/
0:00 Intro
0:41 Upgrade #1 - Webcam
1:11 Upgrade #2 - LED's
1:44 Upgrade #3 Klipper Expander
2:23 Upgrade #4 Nevermore
4:30 Upgrade #5 Klipperscreen
6:06 Upgrade #6 Mini AfterSherpa
7:16 Upgrade #7 Kirigami Bed
10:27 Upgrade #8 3DLac
12:02 Upgrade to avoid
github.com/nevermore3d/Neverm...
github.com/PrintersForAnts/Mi...
klipperscreen.readthedocs.io/...
github.com/christophmuelleror...
github.com/th33xitus/kiauh
www.printables.com/model/1468...
3DLac (UK) amzn.to/40lwt73
www.3dlac.com/
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GEAR USED:
CAMERA (US) amzn.to/3pONh5M | (UK) amzn.to/3TfULfs
FAV LOW LIGHT LENS: (US) amzn.to/2QT7aJ5 | (UK) amzn.to/2v7HbRr
FAV MACRO LENS: (US) amzn.to/2VcOa6O | (UK) amzn.to/2V12pPA
GOOD VLOG MIC: (US) amzn.to/2Sdr12I | (UK) amzn.to/2DfVyHU
AMAZING LOW COST LIGHT: (US) amzn.to/2ElMJxg | (UK) amzn.to/2v8A23u
120CM QUICK SETUP SOFTBOX: (US) amzn.to/2IAOBDf | (UK) amzn.to/2F6jcrd
Hey man, thanks for these awesome videos! They helped temper my expectations after ordering my 0.1 kit! It's the most fun I've had with 3d printing!! I followed pretty much all your suggestions with zero regrets! The touchscreen is just such a cool and useful feature that just destroys the other printers I own. I'm now looking at installing auto bed levelling and I also suspect my bed levelling nuts are working themselves loose, so I'm thinking of just locking my bed dead flat and removing the springs all together, like how prusa and bambu have. I reckon this could possibly make the v0 even more rigid and accurate with reliable bed levelling. Either way, I'll give it a go and keep you posted! Keep up with the great videos, and I would love to see you do a 2.4!
Yes, springs are one of the worse ways to secure the bed. I like the idea of locking in the bed at a fixed level.
I've been using a V0.1/2 for two years and find myself in agreement with the concerns you've mentioned. My upgrades mirror yours closely, with a few additional tweaks. For improved cooling, I installed a 120mm auxiliary fan and incorporated Angrycam for better spaghetti detection. Recently, I ordered the SHT36 v2 CANbus featuring a PT100 and encoder, which will repurpose one of the rear thermistors for chamber temperature monitoring. Plans are in place to integrate a clicky probe into my Dragonburner cowling. Although I haven't switched to a metal bed, I experience frequent bed leveling issues and adhesion problems. I'm optimistic the clicky probe will address these. Applying thread locker to the bed nuts, as you suggested, seems like a solid idea I'm keen to try. Despite my love-hate relationship with this printer, its exceptional speed and compact size make it ideal for small prints and conveniently portable for presentations.
Thx for your work :)
My pleasure!
Great video! The mini stealth burner extruder on the updated 0.2 is far easier to maintain than the mini afterburner. The only mods I’ve made to mine (beyond those included in the LDO S1 kit) thus far are a set of slimline carry handles and a clip on mount for a Microsoft HD3000 webcam.
What’s the mod for the scrubber brush? Doesn’t seem to be in the description
www.printables.com/model/181785-voron-v01-nozzle-brush
Im pretty sure voron design did think about maintenance but its just very difficult to make it easy on such a compact design
Great Video! How ever I have an issue with putting thread locker on the screws/nuts. When screws/ nuts are into plastic. They just have a nature to come loose. Which is usually by plastic shrinkage or long term stress pressure. Putting thread locker will prevent the screw from just falling out. But you will still just have a loose joint to deal with over time. With thread locker you might have an issue with re-tightening the screws/nuts. Designing and printing 3D plastic parts for prototyping is great and fun. But plastic is not a long term part for high load or rapid movement situations. It's a metamorphic solid material. Which means plastic parts on load bearing structures are not a great idea. As in: Voron's 0.1 bed attach brackets, motor supports, gantry brackets, and bearing structures. Sure, it will get you started and that's been fun. But, this is why top notch printers and other machines. Why they cost more, is because of their machined metal parts for longevity.
Just a bit of warning, you shouldn't put thread locker on screws, or bolts that bolt into plastic, threadlocker chemically reacts with ABS, and it makes it weaker, so you should avoid getting any of it on your printed parts, only use threadlocker when bolting into metal parts
I am the proud owner of the v0.2 with the most LEDs. I’ve got just under 600 neopixels in my v0. And let me tell you. It took forever to figure out how to provide the power for them. Dual external power supplies was the mod I ended up doing.
Oh wow, that's a lot! Any pics?
really like your videos, keep it up! you said that you would like to build a voron 2.4 in the future but have you also considered buying bambu lab's p1p (or the x1)? the budget would be probably similar, maybe the p1p would be cheaper actually. I know that one is completely open source and the other is the opposite but in the end when you need the machine just to print reliably (and fast) is the endless tinkering worth it?
Hi Stefan, thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. Yes I have considered bambu labs. it looks amazing, and also other DIY printers such as Ratrig and HevORT. For me this is as much learning as it is printing, Im not needing to print parts for commercial purposes so I don't mind the tinkering and Ive learnt a lot about the basic of electrics with this Voron which is something I wanted to gain knowledge on.
Im hoping that the technology in the bambu labs x1 will start to get reverse-engineered and introduced into DIY printers like the voron. That would be the best of both worlds. As you say, Bambu is closed source which I really don't like, and 5 years down the line if you want to upgrade a part, how easy is it going to be ????
For now I'm good with what I have, it cover my prototyping needs mostly, and I actually have a Elegoo Mars 3 Pro arriving in literally a few hours of me typing this out so I can experiment with resin printing too now. The bambu lab a major advancement in 3d printing in the last few years, the prusa XL with tool changer will also be another big step in 3d printing functionality. My next investment in a printer will probably be something that contains all these features. Maybe the Voron 3, who knows :)
I totally understand what you mean but I've been completely upgrading an old ender 3 (probably a bad idea to start with) for the past few months and the endless calibration & tinkering has been driving me crazy.
Now all that I want is just a printer that prints reliably, thus my interest in the p1p - but as you've said maybe in the future they will reverse some of the tech behind that or maybe bambu lab will slowly make some of their parts open source.. though I doubt it (at least the parts are kinda cheap and they did make their software open source)
should try annex k3 if you want a something slightly larger
wow that printer looks incredible!
I started building a 0.1 back in November and I just cannot bring myself to finish it... lost interest because I kept getting frustrated with the instructions and issues along the way.
Try not to give up Mark, read the instruction very carefully and check out Gregs Makers Corner for the full 0.1 build series, its very helpful where the manual doesn't give enough detail. Also hop on the Voron Discord, lots of help can be asked there.
it took me a whole year to finish, Mark. you will get there someday..
Just do a few steps each day, and it’ll be finished before you know it. Seriously, that’s the approach I took and finished in a few weeks. And I took the hard way in self sourcing too
I certainly understand your frustration, Mark. I started mine back in November too, and I just finished it today! I was very busy and tired because of work, so I never felt motivated to sit down for hours on end. I decided to break it up into small steps and do just enough to feel like I progressed. "Only installed a handful of screws today? Hey, they weren't there yesterday!" It certainly is a challenge, but at the end of it all, you'll have yourself a new machine and more knowledge about the hobby!
"You cant put a price on heath"
America: "Hold my beer"
Strange that you had problems with bed adhesion - that's one thing my V0.1 has been absolutely flawless at.
Adhesion has been mostly fixed now I switched to kirigami bed and use 3dlac glue
Why not going CAN?
LDO V0 kits come with Picobilical by default which cleans up wiring and improves maintenance of toolhead, so at least personally I don't see the benefit. For V2.4 and Trident, definitely worth it!
@@OnlyTiramisu I know I have one and I went CAN.
@@cristianopersi7953 How come? Genuinely curious
@@OnlyTiramisu I heared about problems with picobilical and didn‘t want to have that. As I have a V2.4 with CAn and it wors I decided to go with CAN. So I have a spare picobilical.
what is CAN?