@@timothystevenson7907 it's a 10/10 for mofern Masterlocks not locks in general. Look how long that took. Clearly this takes longer than the locks you can blow on to open. So in Masterlock's book, it's a 10. In reality, it should be avoided
They could have hung that plug off a dummy nut on the other side if it bothered them, instead of creating a vulnerability. Master Lock, why you always do this?
It looks like a locksmith designed the original lock, but then some designer with no idea about lock safety, got their hands on it, because some marketing research showed that expensive locks with weather covers sell better. And since it was just a minor change, master didn't think about having those changes checked by an actual locksmith/engineer.
Thank you BB! I used a M930 to lock a bicycle to my trailer hitch, and the core froze up so that the key couldn't turn it, because of grit in the mechanism I suppose. This video let me get the bicycle and bike rack off of my trailer hitch upon returning from vacation. I'm the rare case where bad Master Lock security was a good thing.
My new criterion for choosing a lock: if it takes Bill and LPL longer than five minutes to get it open, it'll probably keep ordinary mortals busy all day.
Master locks best core is in its plastic body safety lock , 6 pin core all spools . Locks to make sure workers are safe by locking fuses , valves and switches to OFF position .
@@pete_lind yes it is indeed. However, the only reason they are good cylinders as there is a safety regulation in place that mandates it. Sadly there no other mandates so Master do what they want and lie in marketing. Lol
@@pete_lind I'm pretty sure Bill did a video on that lock and said that if they would make a durable body for a true security lock as opposed to (or rather in addition to) a safety "lock-out" device, they would have a winner on their hands. It just seems Master ALMOST never fails to fail!! 😏
@@pete_lind I bought one of those LOTO locks. It was total junk. The core failed after 3 or 4 operations with the key; less than a day of use. It threw some of its internals into the case somewhere. Obtained a full refund and bought something else with the money.
@@erg0centric he was talking about the design. Those locking/clamping pliers would make this already quick job a breeze. I agree with you though that by brand it doesn't get much better that knipex, there self ajusting pliers are like magic
Not even a noisy attack and with practise probably a sub 30 second attack. Bye bye bicycle...Masterlock normally has at least decent physical security even if the cores were crappy. Looks like they’re even giving up on that now...
The thing is it won't be a bicycle, it would be a shipping container full of merchandise/tools/expensive equipment. for the price point and the rating of 10/10, this is abysmal and could cost someone thousands. Worst thing is I have to sell these through a large hardware chain and customers assume its good.
@Andy Ruse nope. Still designed in the US by Americans. The Chinese just make it 'look like the picture'. This is a US born & bred design flaw, not a Chinese manufacturing flaw.
I noticed that too when I removed the weather protective cap. It wasn't too smart of them, but applying some Loctite 272 to the threads will eliminate the kind of attack you show. People don't realize it, but even with a perfectly flush setup, all you have to do is take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and quickly grind/cut away the flared end of the nut.
What they said! Some loctite would prevent the screw from easily being unthreaded. Doesn't really matter how hard you pull down on it from outside of the lock it will just spin. So perhaps a very easy upgrade to make that would let this be a small step up in security. That is assuming that the core isn't total junk and that it can't easily be shimmed.
@Andy Ruse Not enough of the nut is exposed to get enough leverage on it to be able to snap it off. You'll more than likely end up rounding it off Instead. I know this lock, I just made a video on it. LOL Just to note, mine didn't stick out as far as his in this video. I bet the screw wasn't fully tightened down to pull the nut closer.
big advantages for locks that fir a Euro Cylinder. is the rotating piece is set to not be inside the cylinder while locked but sticking out, you wont be removing it without picking it.
Worst part is that he has in previous videos sent this kind of info to Masterlock, only to have them blow off or just send him a cease and desist order lol
It looks like the original lock was designed by someone proficient in lock engineering but then some marketing/designer folks had to change it because weather covers are cool. And then they didn't check back with someone knowledgeable after doing their changes.
Oh dear 10/10 for the shackle, but a 2/10 for entry with out a key. If they wanted to weather proof the keyway? Why did they just make a complete rubber jacket for it? I bet someone got a bonus for coming up with that flaw.
@@Andolf10001 What bugs me the most is opposite of the nut he removed are two small rivets that hold the rubber boot on the other side, why didn't they just do that for both sides instead of attaching it to the nut and creating a potential issue? Why does it even need this at all? I've seen old Masterlocks that are 30+ years old with no weather protection that work just fine with just a small bit of "something" sprayed in them when they get harder to open. Even WD-40 works fine, though not recommended if in freezing weather, but damn...
Nice video, I really like the choice to add the little intro clip before the title card (or whatever you call the locklab animation thing). It really improves the flow of the video and makes it feel a bit more professional, and will help grab the attention of viewers faster.
Fam, watching you with those giant channel locks was torture! Would have been more enjoyable to watch with small vise grips or regular channel locks. But all and all, great video, and awesome exploit.
UK Lockpickers I knew they were bad but never goes bad until LPL and B. Bill. Honestly makes me want to go steal stuff for the LOLz.(I won't, but still recording reaction from people that are their locks messed up without being cut would be funny.)
We already knew that Master Locks' scale is in mm where as the rest of the world is in cm. OBVIOUSLY it's a 1 on the other scales, and a 10 on their scale.
Use one of those universal sockets that has the little pins in it that depress while the rest grab the nut. I bet those would work really well for this.
Masterlocks are like building a castle that is completely resistant to trebuchets and ladders... But has a small wooden fence to protect the entrance and a bunch of sewer tunnels that are uncovered
I was just 86'd from the local Lowe's store for doing this in their lock isle. The other customers were shocked more so about the lock than anything. Off to Home Depot, wish me luck :D gotta break'em all, master lock!
Bill, another excellent video. Masterlock should put you on their payroll! But please be careful. While you were digging out the core I expected that screwdriver to find your wrist!!!
Unbelieveable. I wonder if Masterlock is watching your videos? I bet they'd love to shut you up. I love your videos, as a newbie I really enjoy them, as a disabled Vet I don't have anything else to do.
interesting format of the video. i can tell you changed it up a lot. i like it! keeps the viewer interested. honestly your intro, while neat, likely isnt interesting to most people. youtube is an instant gratification place. those precious seconds count to get people interested as im sure you know in your analytics.
I've for some time wondered about that screw in the bottom. BUT, I thought that one could center-punch it, then drill out the center of it with a cordless drill. That's not silent, but not as noisy as a grinder. I just thought that piece would be hardened on a better quality lock.
Is that bottom plate and nut interchangeable with other models? Maybe you could replace the faulty parts and use the rest of the lock as something to build off of.
Bill I bet if you did the same thing but tightened the screw instead of loosening it, the screw would break easier and faster and you have access even easier,
What is the advantage of a Hex shackle over a round shackle if any? I'd have though a round shackle, especially with a smooth texture would be more difficult for cutters to get a good bite on without slipping.
On a hexagonal shackle, opposing sides where bolt cutters would make contact will not both be flat. The side with less contact is more likely to damage to bolt cutters blades due to the increased pressure in a smaller area. Or because Master Lock seems to put profits ahead of making a quality product, it's probably cheaper to manufacture.
I am amused that a man with obvious hand-eye skills struggles with a pair of pliers. There is hope for the rest of us yet :-) Keep it up Bill, I love your style and channel. You have to take a little flak at such high altitude :-)
I suspect that this exploit could be prevented by simply putting a bit of Loctite (medium strength should do it) on the threads of the retaining screw. Pulling while turning would not be enough to make the screw unthread. But even without that extended "nut", the basic design invites a ~10 second angle grinder attack.
Physically, yes. Boron carbide chews up hand tools something fierce (you'd need something hydraulic or nearly so, with replaceable jaws), the hardened steel body is very thick and a pain to cut or drill through, and the bottom retaining plate is also very thick... but Master's cores are awful, so you can just rake it open.
Have to admit, it is so nice of them to be thinking about us, when we loose our keys. They want to make it easy and just unscrew the whole thing. Mighty nice of them.
I have one of these i use to hold a cooler in the bed of my truck for work... changed the core after starting to watch bill... now i have to figure out something else bc you know whats really common on construction sites... pliers
I recommend a Brinks 672-52701. 6 pins with serrated drivers/serrated spools, and serrated keypins, all for $13 on amazon. I'm pretty sure it comes with an anti-bypass plate but can't remember off the top of my head.
@@woodyplatapus Hmm, I don't know if a standard Master lock nut would work. I tried taking apart an M930 and tried swapping in the nut from a ML 6835, but the drill plate doesn't have the same countersinking as on the 6835, so the nut stands a good ways proud of the bottom. Probably a bit harder to grab with pliers just by virtue of being round, but still not ideal... imgur.com/a/u46DyDW
@@veraxis9961 i see what your talking about guess ill take my core back out and pitch this... actually quite rusted at the point and difficult to use anyway... thanks for the replies
Pretty damn sad, the makings of a good lock, strong lock body and shackle.. and THEN, if the soft core wasn't enough, ML decides to put a "handle" on the only damn thing holding this core in place? Almost HAS to be on purpose doesn't it? Nice work Bill, thanks for continuing to bring these things to light!
You would think that MASTERLOCK would do what other lock companies do is look at and take their criticisms that the locksport community has on their locks then they wouldn't be the butt of everyone's joke. Instead they will gloat abput being "Tough under fire" ,ignore the problems and criticisms and bury their heads up their asd. Great video Bill. "Stay away from MASTERLOCK"
That was the most awkward tool you could have used and still it worked like a charm. Visegrips would be my choice should I ever need to bust one of those padlocks.
Would this exploit have been minimized if Master Lock had used permanent thread-locker on the screw before driving it into that threaded piece? Still might have been able to knock the head from that fastener but you wouldn't be able to spin it off like shown in the video. Just curious.
The 2nd lock I ever tried to pick was a master lock installed on a storage shed door (belonging to a friend - nothing sus). Got it in under 3 minutes with only about an hours prior practice on a super cheap 4 pin padlock.
The screws have loctite on them, I wonder if adding fresh loctite would help. Vibratite 125 thread locker gel is a medium strength product and holds a lot stronger than loctite. I sure wish you would of shown how much loctite was on the screw. In the video it looks black but should be blue. Can you clear this up?
I have a set of Master Lock 6000 series padlocks keyed-alike. I also have a set of American padlocks keyed alike. I would like to get down to one set of keyed alike locks would you recommend the American 700 series over the Master Lock 6000 series? Is there another lock in the same price range that you would recommend more? It would be a bonus, but not necessary, if I also have the option of keying a couple of houses to the same key. I'm more interested in defending against a brute Force attack rather than picking.
Question: Will it be faster to simply pick thiss lock instead ? But for sure, if the only tool you have on hand is a channellock or (i'd prefer) Vise-Grips and a good screwdriver (to add leverage through the shackle), this nut is the solution.
This may be a dumb suggestion, but if someone has this lock and wants to better secure it against this exploit, how about removing the fancy rubber cover, use a Dremel tool to cut most of the way through that metal piece that holds the rubber cover, then reinstall the rubber. If you do it right, anyone trying to twist that metal piece off will simply snap it off where it was weakened and leave the remainder of the lock intact. Just a thought.
So how much force does it take to shear? Seems like you could do it a lot faster if you had a smaller pair of snubnose pliers for after it starts turning but is still too tight for fingers. Also, is that nut replaceable? Rip the weather cover off, change out the extended nut for a proper one, then have a decent lock?
As Bill pointed out, there are some good attempts at security, they just leave that ONE error. Be it an exposed bolt holding the plate on, or a 4 pin non security tumbler, or using plates instead of ball bearings. Look across their line, you can find some excellent parts, (boron shackle, 6 pin security pinned cylinders, hardened body, ball bearing locking), it's just that they don't put them all in one lock.
![[760] The REAL Double Wrench Method Tested](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oOSWXo9fpTI/mqdefault.jpg)
OK guys, new lock. 10/10 for security. Let's see those YouTub.....Oh.
It says 10 for "cut resistance", not 10 for overall security. Have to learn to think like a marketer and a lawyer!
@@gorak9000 it says 10/10 overall, "cut resistance" is just one of the things (probably the only thing) it is good at
@@timothystevenson7907 it's a 10/10 for mofern Masterlocks not locks in general. Look how long that took. Clearly this takes longer than the locks you can blow on to open. So in Masterlock's book, it's a 10. In reality, it should be avoided
So expensive bolt cutters wont work but my cheap pliers will? The bean counters are at it again
Shot this lock with buckshot 5 times still can't open
Great video! What a shame they didn’t stick with the domed/recessed design that every other lock company uses.
They could have hung that plug off a dummy nut on the other side if it bothered them, instead of creating a vulnerability.
Master Lock, why you always do this?
Could be fixed with a grinder...
@Your Mums HITACHI I originally meant grind the pin flush so no leverage but cropping it would solve the sense of false security
Anyone test to see if the American 700 part will work instead of the Master Lock nut yet?
It looks like a locksmith designed the original lock, but then some designer with no idea about lock safety, got their hands on it, because some marketing research showed that expensive locks with weather covers sell better.
And since it was just a minor change, master didn't think about having those changes checked by an actual locksmith/engineer.
Thank you BB! I used a M930 to lock a bicycle to my trailer hitch, and the core froze up so that the key couldn't turn it, because of grit in the mechanism I suppose. This video let me get the bicycle and bike rack off of my trailer hitch upon returning from vacation. I'm the rare case where bad Master Lock security was a good thing.
My new criterion for choosing a lock: if it takes Bill and LPL longer than five minutes to get it open, it'll probably keep ordinary mortals busy all day.
Same, lol.
They improved it. They made it much easier to do a physical defeat.
Master often make good strong locks but crappy cores, now the physical protection is getting worse and this is rated 10! :/
Master locks best core is in its plastic body safety lock , 6 pin core all spools .
Locks to make sure workers are safe by locking fuses , valves and switches to OFF position .
@@pete_lind yes it is indeed. However, the only reason they are good cylinders as there is a safety regulation in place that mandates it. Sadly there no other mandates so Master do what they want and lie in marketing. Lol
It'd be better to just buy an old masterlock LOTO padlock...
@@pete_lind I'm pretty sure Bill did a video on that lock and said that if they would make a durable body for a true security lock as opposed to (or rather in addition to) a safety "lock-out" device, they would have a winner on their hands. It just seems Master ALMOST never fails to fail!! 😏
@@pete_lind I bought one of those LOTO locks. It was total junk. The core failed after 3 or 4 operations with the key; less than a day of use. It threw some of its internals into the case somewhere. Obtained a full refund and bought something else with the money.
Vice grips would have worked great. Lock them on, twist and away you go.
Try Knipex, you will be amazed by how sharp and hard those teeth are.
@@erg0centric he was talking about the design. Those locking/clamping pliers would make this already quick job a breeze. I agree with you though that by brand it doesn't get much better that knipex, there self ajusting pliers are like magic
I was just thinking about that. I have a pair that is over 30years old that still work. Would also let you use more force when twisting.
Thinking the same.A pair of mole grips would have been easier
Thanks now I have to change all the locks on my storage unit company that I own.
Not even a noisy attack and with practise probably a sub 30 second attack. Bye bye bicycle...Masterlock normally has at least decent physical security even if the cores were crappy. Looks like they’re even giving up on that now...
Master lock was once decent. Many decades ago. For the last 40+ years, they've been the joke of the lock world.
Adam West With a tool, even faster. A custom socket wrench designed to fit that piece will see the lock opened in seconds.
Yep, that rating of '10' must be how long in seconds it takes for a pro to bypass and open it.
The thing is it won't be a bicycle, it would be a shipping container full of merchandise/tools/expensive equipment. for the price point and the rating of 10/10, this is abysmal and could cost someone thousands. Worst thing is I have to sell these through a large hardware chain and customers assume its good.
@Andy Ruse nope. Still designed in the US by Americans. The Chinese just make it 'look like the picture'. This is a US born & bred design flaw, not a Chinese manufacturing flaw.
I noticed that too when I removed the weather protective cap. It wasn't too smart of them, but applying some Loctite 272 to the threads will eliminate the kind of attack you show. People don't realize it, but even with a perfectly flush setup, all you have to do is take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and quickly grind/cut away the flared end of the nut.
What they said! Some loctite would prevent the screw from easily being unthreaded. Doesn't really matter how hard you pull down on it from outside of the lock it will just spin. So perhaps a very easy upgrade to make that would let this be a small step up in security. That is assuming that the core isn't total junk and that it can't easily be shimmed.
@Andy Ruse Not enough of the nut is exposed to get enough leverage on it to be able to snap it off. You'll more than likely end up rounding it off Instead. I know this lock, I just made a video on it. LOL Just to note, mine didn't stick out as far as his in this video. I bet the screw wasn't fully tightened down to pull the nut closer.
@@electronicsNmore, I wondered about that.
big advantages for locks that fir a Euro Cylinder. is the rotating piece is set to not be inside the cylinder while locked but sticking out, you wont be removing it without picking it.
They should contact people like you before releasing the lock, this one could've been fixed pretty easily
Worst part is that he has in previous videos sent this kind of info to Masterlock, only to have them blow off or just send him a cease and desist order lol
It looks like the original lock was designed by someone proficient in lock engineering but then some marketing/designer folks had to change it because weather covers are cool.
And then they didn't check back with someone knowledgeable after doing their changes.
Oh dear 10/10 for the shackle, but a 2/10 for entry with out a key. If they wanted to weather proof the keyway? Why did they just make a complete rubber jacket for it? I bet someone got a bonus for coming up with that flaw.
You missed the point. This is not a defect. It's called a backdoor.
@@Andolf10001 What bugs me the most is opposite of the nut he removed are two small rivets that hold the rubber boot on the other side, why didn't they just do that for both sides instead of attaching it to the nut and creating a potential issue? Why does it even need this at all? I've seen old Masterlocks that are 30+ years old with no weather protection that work just fine with just a small bit of "something" sprayed in them when they get harder to open. Even WD-40 works fine, though not recommended if in freezing weather, but damn...
Takes real skill and effort to take a well established, excellent lock design and screw it up so beautifully.
I always love it when Bill gets into Master Locks very easily. Great video.
Makes you think why they didn't just glue on the weather guard. Maybe they really do just build in flaws purposefully.
Nice video, I really like the choice to add the little intro clip before the title card (or whatever you call the locklab animation thing). It really improves the flow of the video and makes it feel a bit more professional, and will help grab the attention of viewers faster.
This is the reason I got ride of all my master locks because of watching your video's and LPL videos all my locks are abus or abloy.
It's like there are criminals designing their locks, I can't believe they aren't help accountable. Thanks Bill for showing everyone this.
Battery powered impact with the right size socket and a prybar to keep tension on it would seem to have you into the lock in about 8 seconds
Fam, watching you with those giant channel locks was torture! Would have been more enjoyable to watch with small vise grips or regular channel locks.
But all and all, great video, and awesome exploit.
rated "10" - 9.30 = a .70 rating.... yep, that sounds about right!
Unf...ingbelievable! That's the easiest bypass I've ever seen. Now i can try out my set of tractor keys on all the construction sites in LA.
If they just used the original threaded bit and added a new pokey bit to hold the weather cover..........
Yep, that's all it would take. It ain't rocket science...
@@bosnianbill its one more hole to drill and a 1 cent post...... It really seems like this is done on purpose
Or designed the protruding bit with a shear weakness so the end button would have just come off under twisting.
Friends don't let friends buy master locks.
Awesome as usual thank you for posting this I was thinking getting these for my shed
What a joke of a lock company Lol
UK Lockpickers I knew they were bad but never goes bad until LPL and B. Bill.
Honestly makes me want to go steal stuff for the LOLz.(I won't, but still recording reaction from people that are their locks messed up without being cut would be funny.)
Sweet a realistic simulation how the lock would actually be used! Thank you Bill
I bet a 4mm spanner would have fit , I use master locks on my shed at least I won't find my doors or windows broken
Best Master Lock yet!
I already have a pair of those fine German made Knipex pliers.
We already knew that Master Locks' scale is in mm where as the rest of the world is in cm. OBVIOUSLY it's a 1 on the other scales, and a 10 on their scale.
Wow. I’ve learned a lot from you. Bought an Italian designed lock and pewag for my good stuff. Thx.
Nicely done Mr Bill
Could have just grabbed it in a drill in reverse.
I'll bet you could find d a nut drive or socket the right size and get out that way
I'd like to see that. Think you'd need an impact, or just a standard cordless?
@@Vidz0022 I bet you could use an IKEA drill for this, much more quiet than an impact-driver.
I was thinking make a custom socket and slap it on an impact wrench/driver and that thing would be open in about 10 seconds.
Use one of those universal sockets that has the little pins in it that depress while the rest grab the nut. I bet those would work really well for this.
Except without pulling "out" on the nut to restrict the internal bolt from spinning... Can't do that with any drill.
Good catch Bill ..I saw that and didn't think about it. Just pliers and a screw driver. Not good
Flat piece of steel .Drill hole then file oval. Your in.
Masterlocks are like building a castle that is completely resistant to trebuchets and ladders... But has a small wooden fence to protect the entrance and a bunch of sewer tunnels that are uncovered
That pick reportedly works with some high end door locks unless specific countermeasures are installed on the door.
I was just 86'd from the local Lowe's store for doing this in their lock isle. The other customers were shocked more so about the lock than anything. Off to Home Depot, wish me luck :D gotta break'em all, master lock!
Utterly amazing! Fire the Quality Control Dept. and hire Bill. Love your vids. Keep up the good work!
Good going on identifying the weakness right away
You rock! I never buy a lock without checking your channel.
Some of the non rekeyables had a rivit retaining nut. Or the other nut retainers are made of aluminum very easy to drill.
I havent been watching you much lately. But ur still amazing
Bill, another excellent video. Masterlock should put you on their payroll! But please be careful. While you were digging out the core I expected that screwdriver to find your wrist!!!
Omg bill I figures it was posible but never even bothered 😕 thanks for being a pioneer.
Unbelieveable. I wonder if Masterlock is watching your videos? I bet they'd love to shut you up. I love your videos, as a newbie I really enjoy them, as a disabled Vet I don't have anything else to do.
interesting format of the video. i can tell you changed it up a lot. i like it! keeps the viewer interested. honestly your intro, while neat, likely isnt interesting to most people. youtube is an instant gratification place. those precious seconds count to get people interested as im sure you know in your analytics.
I've for some time wondered about that screw in the bottom. BUT, I thought that one could center-punch it, then drill out the center of it with a cordless drill. That's not silent, but not as noisy as a grinder. I just thought that piece would be hardened on a better quality lock.
Knipex Cobras! Excellent exploit! And to think some guys would have used a short hook.
MasterLock < Just leaving your stuff unlocked.
One could probably make a "key" that fits right over the nut with a magnet inside to pull the bolt, with a built in screwdriver in the t-handle
Well done bro😊
Nice video bill
Is that bottom plate and nut interchangeable with other models? Maybe you could replace the faulty parts and use the rest of the lock as something to build off of.
So, if you put a normal security nut and maybe work on core if it needs it and make a good lock
Bill I bet if you did the same thing but tightened the screw instead of loosening it, the screw would break easier and faster and you have access even easier,
What is the advantage of a Hex shackle over a round shackle if any? I'd have though a round shackle, especially with a smooth texture would be more difficult for cutters to get a good bite on without slipping.
On a hexagonal shackle, opposing sides where bolt cutters would make contact will not both be flat. The side with less contact is more likely to damage to bolt cutters blades due to the increased pressure in a smaller area.
Or because Master Lock seems to put profits ahead of making a quality product, it's probably cheaper to manufacture.
Wonder if you could replace it with standard dome style to fix the flaw but sure there are more flaws than that seeing all the other master lock fails
You could to that so fast with the right sized socket, or one of those universal sockets with the pins in it, and a drill.
wow. Masterlock really needs to hire you as a consultant.
I am amused that a man with obvious hand-eye skills struggles with a pair of pliers. There is hope for the rest of us yet :-) Keep it up Bill, I love your style and channel. You have to take a little flak at such high altitude :-)
Master should be ashamed of themselves for making a lock that can be defeated so easily. Thanks for your great videos!
WOW. That's a disturbingly simple exploit... 😲
Well, Master really surprised me there. When you pulled the rubber cap off I thought for sure that they had used a PVC nut.
I suspect that this exploit could be prevented by simply putting a bit of Loctite (medium strength should do it) on the threads of the retaining screw. Pulling while turning would not be enough to make the screw unthread. But even without that extended "nut", the basic design invites a ~10 second angle grinder attack.
Actually, it DOES have blue loctite on it from the factory... Maybe that’s why it was so hard to get started twisting?
Vice Grips, Bill, vice grips.
If the protruding bolt head was NOT protruding, would the lock live up to the 10 rating?
10 raking. Wiggle the rake pick 10 times.
Physically, yes. Boron carbide chews up hand tools something fierce (you'd need something hydraulic or nearly so, with replaceable jaws), the hardened steel body is very thick and a pain to cut or drill through, and the bottom retaining plate is also very thick... but Master's cores are awful, so you can just rake it open.
How hard is it to just drill on of those pins out on the flush design? Or put a screw through the pin to carry out the same twisting attack.
The only thing missing, the rabbit ear tabs on traditional wingnuts, which would've made it slightly easier. If that's a ten what's a 1 a twist tie?
Great video job well done
Knipex Cobra
Have to admit, it is so nice of them to be thinking about us, when we loose our keys. They want to make it easy and just unscrew the whole thing. Mighty nice of them.
I have one of these i use to hold a cooler in the bed of my truck for work... changed the core after starting to watch bill... now i have to figure out something else bc you know whats really common on construction sites... pliers
I recommend a Brinks 672-52701. 6 pins with serrated drivers/serrated spools, and serrated keypins, all for $13 on amazon. I'm pretty sure it comes with an anti-bypass plate but can't remember off the top of my head.
@@veraxis9961 i was thinking about trying to replacing the piece/nut? that you can grab with the pliers with a standard nut that fits flush?
@@woodyplatapus Hmm, I don't know if a standard Master lock nut would work. I tried taking apart an M930 and tried swapping in the nut from a ML 6835, but the drill plate doesn't have the same countersinking as on the 6835, so the nut stands a good ways proud of the bottom. Probably a bit harder to grab with pliers just by virtue of being round, but still not ideal...
imgur.com/a/u46DyDW
@@veraxis9961 i see what your talking about guess ill take my core back out and pitch this... actually quite rusted at the point and difficult to use anyway... thanks for the replies
Thanks Bill, Vice grips maybe a better choice .
Pretty damn sad, the makings of a good lock, strong lock body and shackle.. and THEN, if the soft core wasn't enough, ML decides to put a "handle" on the only damn thing holding this core in place? Almost HAS to be on purpose doesn't it? Nice work Bill, thanks for continuing to bring these things to light!
You would think that MASTERLOCK would do what other lock companies do is look at and take their criticisms that the locksport community has on their locks then they wouldn't be the butt of everyone's joke. Instead they will gloat abput being "Tough under fire" ,ignore the problems and criticisms and bury their heads up their asd. Great video Bill. "Stay away from MASTERLOCK"
I would have used an open end wrench that fits the nut. Might work a little bit better.
if you weld it up and weld up the keyway, it could be pretty secure.
That was the most awkward tool you could have used and still it worked like a charm. Visegrips would be my choice should I ever need to bust one of those padlocks.
Would this exploit have been minimized if Master Lock had used permanent thread-locker on the screw before driving it into that threaded piece? Still might have been able to knock the head from that fastener but you wouldn't be able to spin it off like shown in the video.
Just curious.
That would definitely make it tougher and would be an easy upgrade for an owner to do if they have one of these and want to keep using it.
I'd like to see you do a review of various battery powered grinders...
Thanks for video. I was planning to buy exactly this lock. garbage lock. Run away!
What a colossal fuck up!
Please tell me the pro series 6327 are ok locks though, i currently have one!!!???
I learned basic lock picking on a master lock. So they are good for something!
The 2nd lock I ever tried to pick was a master lock installed on a storage shed door (belonging to a friend - nothing sus). Got it in under 3 minutes with only about an hours prior practice on a super cheap 4 pin padlock.
The screws have loctite on them, I wonder if adding fresh loctite would help. Vibratite 125 thread locker gel is a medium strength product and holds a lot stronger than loctite. I sure wish you would of shown how much loctite was on the screw. In the video it looks black but should be blue. Can you clear this up?
I have a set of Master Lock 6000 series padlocks keyed-alike. I also have a set of American padlocks keyed alike. I would like to get down to one set of keyed alike locks would you recommend the American 700 series over the Master Lock 6000 series? Is there another lock in the same price range that you would recommend more?
It would be a bonus, but not necessary, if I also have the option of keying a couple of houses to the same key.
I'm more interested in defending against a brute Force attack rather than picking.
Question: Will it be faster to simply pick thiss lock instead ?
But for sure, if the only tool you have on hand is a channellock or (i'd prefer) Vise-Grips and a good screwdriver (to add leverage through the shackle), this nut is the solution.
This can be done in under 2 minutes with a multitool.
I'm offended that you just referred to a pair of Knipex Cobra pliers as "channelocks".
He could have called them Vice Grips like I've seen some do...
This may be a dumb suggestion, but if someone has this lock and wants to better secure it against this exploit, how about removing the fancy rubber cover, use a Dremel tool to cut most of the way through that metal piece that holds the rubber cover, then reinstall the rubber.
If you do it right, anyone trying to twist that metal piece off will simply snap it off where it was weakened and leave the remainder of the lock intact. Just a thought.
I ALMOST bought this. Opted for the newer stainless combo lock. Only because I don't have a choice in paclock in Texas right now. 😭
BB, maybe Master Lock meant 1 was the most secure and 1 the least and the printer screwed up and transposed it..
CC at 2:35 "I wrapped this around my wife". Keep your bedroom secrets to yourself, please :D
He said, WRAP AROUND VISE.
Oh my. At first i read the name of the model as 'M390' and thought "why would you waste such a nice steel on this junk?" Oh, silly me!
So how much force does it take to shear? Seems like you could do it a lot faster if you had a smaller pair of snubnose pliers for after it starts turning but is still too tight for fingers. Also, is that nut replaceable? Rip the weather cover off, change out the extended nut for a proper one, then have a decent lock?
It can be done with a Leatherman.
Lol now you got a core you can re pin and upgrade, thank you Masterlock.
Masterlock ownage galore! Well done Bill!
Well done Master Lock, yet another quality, high security lock!
Good thing they put that cover on it so that screw doesn't rust up.
thanks for the heads up! what a terrible lock...
It's almost as though Master has a gremlin working in their design lab.
Its a gremlin inside the lock, must protect it no matter what
As Bill pointed out, there are some good attempts at security, they just leave that ONE error. Be it an exposed bolt holding the plate on, or a 4 pin non security tumbler, or using plates instead of ball bearings.
Look across their line, you can find some excellent parts, (boron shackle, 6 pin security pinned cylinders, hardened body, ball bearing locking), it's just that they don't put them all in one lock.
Master lock engineers quit 60 years ago man
Nice shot with dull chisel that be pry out in jif