Here's a nifty trick (Jerry may not like it but I'm talking about no-cost turnarounds without power tools) if you need to shim about half-a-millimeter - cut or tear out a piece of paperboard (matchbook, cereal box, cig carton) in the exact shape to fill your shim space. Soak the paperboard for a few minutes in water and after you brush the glue on the wood take the shimboard (press between paper towels to remove excess water) and lay into position and continue all of your glue painting including over the wet paperboard. If you have hand torn the edge for gradual zero thin - from nothing to whatever and glue all the bits together and clamp. The paperboard will fill very nicely morph to fit and also absorbs glue into itself yet maintains microscopic density. You are welcome.
That's looking great to me ...Ya got to do what you got to do sometimes...I think I heard someone say that ... lol......Really enjoyed watching you do this repair Jerry....
The craftsmanship here is a joy to watch. I think I held my breath the whole time you were sanding and finishing that wedge, afraid it would snap. I didn't relax until you had it glued onto the fretboard!
My method for determining the thickness you need under the ruler/level to bring it all back level: Get some small Postits to use as a shimming tool. Peel off a stack about 1/16th inch. Slide the stack under your ruler/level on the low side. Remove or add sheets till you find the level you want. Remove the little stack of Postits and use calipers to measure the thickness of the stack of Postits. Be careful not to over crush the Postits. Obviously don't use the sticky end since it's thicker and a bit more squishy. English versus metric just in case some viewers don't know. 1/1000th inch = 1 mil 40 mils is about 1 millimeter. 10 mils is about one quarter millimeter. A mil is NOT a millimeter. Nor is a mil a mile. (my boss did that one once - and we laughed at him) My opinion. A mil is a useful unit of measure. Millimeter is too thick and micrometer is too thin to be of much use. "Make it a few micrometers thicker" doesn't add enough to do any good. "Make it a few millimeters thicker" adds way too much. "Make it a few mils thicker" just right. :)
@Rosa String Works - dude so much mahalo for your endearing vulnerability. After watching your channel I checked out 17 others. Omg most luthier channels are terrible with some experiencing superfine production values and boring hosts. Whew. So here I am expressing the idea that if you come to Hollywood I promise you will receive one of the finest didgeridoos on the planet no charge.
I'll tell ya what I think! You see what your doing as trial and error, I see it as a master craftsman applying his knowledge, experience, and skill to do what has to be done for a successful repair :-)
Very interesting but with 2 angles, there can be only one corner on the wedge that is thinned to nil. So you should have cut the wedge in a 90 degree angle at the nut end, so it's nil on the bass side only.
Hi Great video. Im a master cabinet maker and i would have glued a .170 strip of wood onto one side of sacrificial board along its length then double sided taped the wedge to it and ran it through my thickness planer. I'm commenting before the end of the video. I'm sure you got it done! I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
+Timothy Corcoran I do that same technique a lot especially if it's a straight wedge. Unfortunately this one was a compound angle wedge. Thanks for taking a look.
The wedge! The wedge! I'm confused! I'm confused! I need to call my tech nerd friend at M.I.T. and he'll explain it to me. Kidding aside, you got it Jerry Rosa!
Some people think that I am crazy for investing 177 hours into building an exquisite didgeridoo from the living bamboo culm to the finished instrument. Exactly 37 humans understand why things need to be exquisite. I suspect that Mister Rosa is one of those humans.
Randy Schartiger yes it is. You tend to think that the factory always does the same thing every time and every instrument is perfect. But it just isn't that way. Thank you for watching.
mr. Rosa I would like to know what you use to clean your fretboard guitar and what kind of oil you use to oil this and the meantime God bless you for another great great video
Antonio Gomez on the fretboard I always use boiled linseed oil. I apply it and then take it right back off instantly and follow up and dry it again a little later. thank you for watching.
Wow, freeze the frame at 29:05 and 29:06. You knocked the binding loose from, obviously, not trimming and filing the tang flush for the overhang over the binding. Theres no way to fix that without pulling the frets and doing properly. How long you been doing this?
fiddle0351 it was awhile ago so I don't recall the details. That may have been possible I don't know why I chose to do it the other way. Thanks for watching.
Great stuff Jerry... learning a lot by watching your vids. I had one question and I probably missed it... why was it decided to add a wedge to the neck to make the corrections instead of just shaving the neck to the appropriate angles? Was it because it would make the finger board too low? THANKS!
LarWolkan the bridge was already too low in my opinion. So anything that we would do to take wood off to level it would just lower that much more. Thank you very much for watching.
Lol, I used watched the first one. This one is so fresh, the video even doesn't have a thumbnail I was wondering. Doesn't the wedged shim (or whatever you call it), underneath the fingerboard effect the tonal qualities?
Hahaha, and otherwise it's to bad for the dog, right? ;) I have seen many people being very picky about these things. On a way you're creating a sort of 'laminated type' neck.
English NOT being my first language, I am preoccupied with the tiniest of details of that language. For instance, Jerry's version of "across'' comes across to me as "acrossed". Do I hear right? Also, his "thousandths of an inch" comes across as "thousands of an inch" - with no th-sound therein. Pretty hard, though, to pronounce a th followed by a very similar s-sound. By the way, American English is far easier to understand than English English.. eh British English in all its incomprehensible glory. And American dialects from coast to coast come across as more uniform, less varied than the dialects of the much smaller Great Britain.
After you explained the compound miter, I need a drink,
Here's a nifty trick (Jerry may not like it but I'm talking about no-cost turnarounds without power tools) if you need to shim about half-a-millimeter - cut or tear out a piece of paperboard (matchbook, cereal box, cig carton) in the exact shape to fill your shim space. Soak the paperboard for a few minutes in water and after you brush the glue on the wood take the shimboard (press between paper towels to remove excess water) and lay into position and continue all of your glue painting including over the wet paperboard. If you have hand torn the edge for gradual zero thin - from nothing to whatever and glue all the bits together and clamp. The paperboard will fill very nicely morph to fit and also absorbs glue into itself yet maintains microscopic density. You are welcome.
That's looking great to me ...Ya got to do what you got to do sometimes...I think I heard someone say that ... lol......Really enjoyed watching you do this repair Jerry....
Jerry- playing cards make great shims. Stack each end till you get what you want. Measure. Bobs yer uncle!
You have difficult fixes, easy fixes, but once in awhile you have an incredibly interesting fix. That's where I put this one. Regards, Solomon
Life After Work thank you very kindly.
For a time there I started thinking about Abbott and Costello. Great job!! Amazing how you figure these things out.
The craftsmanship here is a joy to watch. I think I held my breath the whole time you were sanding and finishing that wedge, afraid it would snap. I didn't relax until you had it glued onto the fretboard!
My method for determining the thickness you need under the ruler/level to bring it all back level: Get some small Postits to use as a shimming tool. Peel off a stack about 1/16th inch. Slide the stack under your ruler/level on the low side. Remove or add sheets till you find the level you want. Remove the little stack of Postits and use calipers to measure the thickness of the stack of Postits.
Be careful not to over crush the Postits. Obviously don't use the sticky end since it's thicker and a bit more squishy.
English versus metric just in case some viewers don't know.
1/1000th inch = 1 mil
40 mils is about 1 millimeter.
10 mils is about one quarter millimeter.
A mil is NOT a millimeter.
Nor is a mil a mile. (my boss did that one once - and we laughed at him)
My opinion.
A mil is a useful unit of measure.
Millimeter is too thick and micrometer is too thin to be of much use.
"Make it a few micrometers thicker" doesn't add enough to do any good.
"Make it a few millimeters thicker" adds way too much.
"Make it a few mils thicker" just right. :)
@Rosa String Works - dude so much mahalo for your endearing vulnerability. After watching your channel I checked out 17 others. Omg most luthier channels are terrible with some experiencing superfine production values and boring hosts. Whew. So here I am expressing the idea that if you come to Hollywood I promise you will receive one of the finest didgeridoos on the planet no charge.
I just followed Jerry and his brain down a Mandolin rabbit hole and survived, but now I think I need a nap....!
BarbedStar thank you I could use a nap myself.
LOL! You are great to watch and learn from. Thanks, Jerry.
BarbedStar thanks
I'll tell ya what I think! You see what your doing as trial and error, I see it as a master craftsman applying his knowledge, experience, and skill to do what has to be done for a successful repair :-)
Stirling Archer thanks very much my friend.
Very interesting but with 2 angles, there can be only one corner on the wedge that is thinned to nil. So you should have cut the wedge in a 90 degree angle at the nut end, so it's nil on the bass side only.
Hi Great video. Im a master cabinet maker and i would have glued a .170 strip of wood onto one side of sacrificial board along its length then double sided taped the wedge to it and ran it through my thickness planer. I'm commenting before the end of the video. I'm sure you got it done! I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
+Timothy Corcoran I do that same technique a lot especially if it's a straight wedge. Unfortunately this one was a compound angle wedge. Thanks for taking a look.
Always appreciate the work ye put intae yer production, great videos 👍 Scotland UK
mjcos1 thank you very much my friend.
The batman of repair. Nice job Jerry!
Jim
phooesnax thank you very much. I hope that's better than being the Joker.
The wedge! The wedge! I'm confused! I'm confused! I need to call my tech nerd friend at M.I.T. and he'll explain it to me. Kidding aside, you got it Jerry Rosa!
Some people think that I am crazy for investing 177 hours into building an exquisite didgeridoo from the living bamboo culm to the finished instrument. Exactly 37 humans understand why things need to be exquisite. I suspect that Mister Rosa is one of those humans.
you might tilt your bandsaw table slightly as you saw your wedge
Wonderful skills you have Jerry, thanks for sharing them with us
Pete Moore thank you Pete. You are welcome.
great work brother! it's amazing what we run into on some repairs.
Randy Schartiger yes it is. You tend to think that the factory always does the same thing every time and every instrument is perfect. But it just isn't that way. Thank you for watching.
Quick conversion for those playing at home, 40 thou to the MM
Nice work
Andy Fab thank you.
Mr Rosa,the Harry Potter of mandolins
brian jackson thank you very much. I just wish I had a magic wand.
Rosa String Works He doesn't have a magic wand, he has magic hands!
Maybe tilt the table next time,or use a track saw and would be no problem with the capability of twisting the saw over for the compound cut
Andrew Mikulich there are always other ways to do it I just found this to be the most accurate for me. Thank you for watching.
mr. Rosa I would like to know what you use to clean your fretboard guitar and what kind of oil you use to oil this and the meantime God bless you for another great great video
Antonio Gomez on the fretboard I always use boiled linseed oil. I apply it and then take it right back off instantly and follow up and dry it again a little later. thank you for watching.
Are you sure cuz I'm los at 18:17 very cool video I love watching you work but my brain hurts 😅
Bruce Gronemeyer whether I was right or wrong. I finally got it done and that's what counts. LOL. Thank you for watching.
Wow, freeze the frame at 29:05 and 29:06. You knocked the binding loose from, obviously, not trimming and filing the tang flush for the overhang over the binding. Theres no way to fix that without pulling the frets and doing properly. How long you been doing this?
James Bernabe thanks for watching.
Well "Bless your Heart" ;-)
Why not just glue a piece of timber to the neck and then shape that so the fingerboard will be in the correct orientation ?
simon Marson that would be an option. Thank you for watching.
The suspense! Lol!
Nella Yema thank you very much.
Why not plane the neck flat rather than angle the wedge?
fiddle0351 it was awhile ago so I don't recall the details. That may have been possible I don't know why I chose to do it the other way. Thanks for watching.
Great stuff Jerry... learning a lot by watching your vids. I had one question and I probably missed it... why was it decided to add a wedge to the neck to make the corrections instead of just shaving the neck to the appropriate angles? Was it because it would make the finger board too low? THANKS!
LarWolkan the bridge was already too low in my opinion. So anything that we would do to take wood off to level it would just lower that much more. Thank you very much for watching.
Got it thanks!
Lol, I used watched the first one.
This one is so fresh, the video even doesn't have a thumbnail
I was wondering. Doesn't the wedged shim (or whatever you call it), underneath the fingerboard effect the tonal qualities?
Bart B If wood is matched and glued correctly I think that there would be no significant effect to the tone quality.
Bart B I suppose it could affect the tone. However I don't even think a dog could hear the difference.
Ivan Dimitrijevic very true. Thank you for watching.
Hahaha, and otherwise it's to bad for the dog, right? ;)
I have seen many people being very picky about these things.
On a way you're creating a sort of 'laminated type' neck.
Bart B thank you for taking a look.
Level the instrument instead. Now the wedge would be 90 degrees ,just a filler . But maybe the instrument would be weakened to much.
What’s the height that you’re looking for?
English NOT being my first language, I am preoccupied with the tiniest of details of that language. For instance, Jerry's version of "across'' comes across to me as "acrossed". Do I hear right? Also, his "thousandths of an inch" comes across as "thousands of an inch" - with no th-sound therein. Pretty hard, though, to pronounce a th followed by a very similar s-sound.
By the way, American English is far easier to understand than English English.. eh British English in all its incomprehensible glory. And American dialects from coast to coast come across as more uniform, less varied than the dialects of the much smaller Great Britain.
I think two wedges would have been quicker.
Would have been easier to take the kneck off. Lol less confusing as well.
Well, that was easy enough, lol
Boudreau Guitars lol
Boudreau Guitars that's what I was thinking. NOT!
Well, you're one corner is DEFINITELY zero!
ElderlyIron very observant.
I feel like my first day of Algebra , confused 😯
Robert Easley Sr I always say it's not easy being me. Thank you for watching.
WHOS ON FIRST