Worst main seal job I've ever seen. He removed the old seal and failed to clean the area with brake cleaner. He failed to put a dab of sealant on the two lower points where the seams in the block are. He failed to follow the torque sequence on the bolts. He failed to use a torque wrench and get the proper torque on the bolts themselves. He literally threw everything back together. I can promise you another leak will develop because of this.
It really was a great video showing all the disassembly that just got ruined by the lack of surface prep when doing the seal. He might get lucky and have it not leak .. but he is rolling the dice extra hard with the risk.
Great video. Will help me a lot. I have to do the same on my 1994 Ford Probe GT. I am not a fan of crawling under car either. I ordered two 6 ton lifts like yours. I am also making short videos of my journey. Feel free to post comments on my site with your advice or help. I can’t wait to see what my throw out bearing and clutch disc looks like after 30 years and 190k miles. Thank you
11:40... uhh... It looks like you forgot the sealant that seals the oil pan to the rear main seal. Good job cleaning it up, though. Clearly, you cut the video, cleaned the surfaces, and then continued.
It is an alignment tool/sleeve. The most critical part when installing the seal. I got mine off centered since I didn’t line it up correctly and now it’s leaking.
Luis Feliciano no dude. The bottom of the seal is supposed to be lined with silicone. I literally just did this today on my car. Otherwise, oil will spit out through the gap at the bottom of the seal and soak the clutch and fly wheel. Which is exactly what happened to my car.
If you look at the fenders before and after the cut, they most definitely bent those fenders. I can't think of too many cars that can support the weight of the engine on two small points on the fenders.
Those engine support brackets are just about all the same. Each side has two points where it touches the car. The points have rubber pads on the bottom. It's the tool you're supposed to use to support the engine. If you used a hoist then it'd be in your way and you wouldn't be able to get the tranny out the bottom due to the legs. Ignore the guy saying they bent the fenders.. you can't see anything in the video since the car had fender protection tarps on for the whole video.
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If we could only see the pile of parts they had to remove just to get to the main seal... it is awh inspiring...
Worst main seal job I've ever seen. He removed the old seal and failed to clean the area with brake cleaner. He failed to put a dab of sealant on the two lower points where the seams in the block are. He failed to follow the torque sequence on the bolts. He failed to use a torque wrench and get the proper torque on the bolts themselves. He literally threw everything back together. I can promise you another leak will develop because of this.
It really was a great video showing all the disassembly that just got ruined by the lack of surface prep when doing the seal. He might get lucky and have it not leak .. but he is rolling the dice extra hard with the risk.
Porque no lo haces tú??
@@jlliriano Yo hecho muchas veces, mi amor, por eso que lo se la manera corecta
Great video. Will help me a lot. I have to do the same on my 1994 Ford Probe GT. I am not a fan of crawling under car either. I ordered two 6 ton lifts like yours. I am also making short videos of my journey. Feel free to post comments on my site with your advice or help. I can’t wait to see what my throw out bearing and clutch disc looks like after 30 years and 190k miles. Thank you
11:40... uhh... It looks like you forgot the sealant that seals the oil pan to the rear main seal.
Good job cleaning it up, though. Clearly, you cut the video, cleaned the surfaces, and then continued.
Great video. Thanks!
excellent video thank you
Nice job
没打密封膠，不漏吗🤔️
what was the white thing that came with the seal? 11:50
It is an alignment tool/sleeve. The most critical part when installing the seal. I got mine off centered since I didn’t line it up correctly and now it’s leaking.
it's to prevent the seal from folding back onto itself when you slide it over the crank.
Excellent !! Buen video !
Luis Feliciano no dude. The bottom of the seal is supposed to be lined with silicone. I literally just did this today on my car. Otherwise, oil will spit out through the gap at the bottom of the seal and soak the clutch and fly wheel. Which is exactly what happened to my car.
Looks like I will take the motor out better
こんにちは。 私はロシア出身です。 質問があります。 山から下り坂や下り坂を走って4A-FEモーターが煙るのはなぜですか？ これをどうすれば修正できますか？
Did you have to use any rtv at the bottom of seal?
No
I guess they aren't worried about denting the fenders with the hoist? If you so much as lean against a Mazda 3 you can feel the metal buckle...
If you look at the fenders before and after the cut, they most definitely bent those fenders. I can't think of too many cars that can support the weight of the engine on two small points on the fenders.
Those engine support brackets are just about all the same. Each side has two points where it touches the car. The points have rubber pads on the bottom. It's the tool you're supposed to use to support the engine. If you used a hoist then it'd be in your way and you wouldn't be able to get the tranny out the bottom due to the legs. Ignore the guy saying they bent the fenders.. you can't see anything in the video since the car had fender protection tarps on for the whole video.