Only an idiot waiting for not only a civil suit but actual criminal charges for death and energy uses a impact wrench rather than a torque wrench to tighten down lug nuts. But you go right ahead you the pro. I like watching you because it's like watching a monkey in the zoo. Yes I'm a hater. It makes me appreciate Sarah- in -tune, and Chris fix. You remind me of a lot of things that are done daily in the average commercial garage you know the what not to do things. You get it done but you do it like the guy I used to work with they used to call fingers. Due to the missing ones he got it done too
does the surgeon blame the knife for cutting too deep or is it the surgeons fault for pressing to hard? any long term tech knows their impact guns well. I can feather that trigger to 90ft pounds with a single press and go back in and torque to spec. Its like knowledge. knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad. Experience shows and yours is lacking
Click. He SAYS at 21:49 that he got the wheels back on AND TORQUED DOWN. Every shop I have ever known to exist uses impacts to tighten the lugs then torques the nuts after all the wheels are on. Go down to your local Sam's club and watch them do a few tires changes. They use the same exact method. I guess they are waiting for their first lawsuit before they change....LOL
I owned auto repair shops for 41 years, it would have been an honor to have had you as an employee. You do your work with care . There is always someone that is an idiot in the crowd. Thank you for the video,I look forward to seeing them.
I posted a still photo when I did the rear brakes on my F-150. Someone asked me where my jack stands were, I replied that they were in the garage. I was supporting one side at a time with a very solid floor jack, and never went under the vehicle. Karens gotta Karen.
I must be watching way too many of your videos. I was installing a new toilet yesterday at home and when tightening the floor flange nuts on the porcelain inch pounds are required, not foot pounds. When it felt right I said “CLICK” without thinking. I guess that’s ok, I’ll keep watching!! Respectfully, Kevin
@@clbcl5 The reason we needed a new one. The handle kept sticking and holding the flapper up. Decided to put new one on. Old style with brass nut was corroded. Had wrench on inside and holding handle outside with considerable force. Wrench slipped, handle twisted, whole side of tank fell to the floor. Happily it was not full of water!!!!!!!
😂 I’ll admit that the “CLICK” part is starting to rub off on me as well. When I had to change a tire the other day I did that as I tightened the lug nuts.
I'm 82 and may never be able to work on vehicles again. I started helping my Dad when I was 10, so I have a little experience. I like the way Ray works. I am blown away by the tools available now. We made and modified a lot of tools. I am smart enough to know that the video is edited. I also know that Ray does not show everything on camera. I really don't understand haters. That makes for a miserable life. I know, I had two family members that were consumed by their hatred. Thanks, Ray.
I’m glad Ray pinned the comment. Most people will not pay for the additional time it takes to do the work per manufacturer’s specifications. I enjoy Ray and the videos so I watch. When my truck needs work it goes to dealership. Dealership may take same shortcuts, but I’ve done everything possible to get repair done per manufacturer’s requirements and drive a safe truck.
The idea of sucking the dirty brake and power steering fluid out of their reservoirs w/o having to 'flush' is brilliant. Learned something new. Thanks Ray~!
@@jeffs2809 i don't do it enough to buy a dedicated extractor, i also use the syringes for measuring out 2 stroke oil mix (after cleaning of course) so i get several at a time, the oil/fluids eventually ruins the rubber plunger
I never thought that I would enjoy watching a guy working on car's - but Ray, I enjoy watching you. Thank you for making my TH-cam app worth the install.
This dude did a great brake job. He goes out of his way to do things correctly that a lot of other mechanics short cut because flat rate. Looks good from my house!
Your personality is what makes your videos interesting. Keep talking to the car and your tools and Keep throwing in your mechanic wisdom, they're valuable. Stay positive and away from your potical views. Thanks for everything.
Great job and full 5 stars for pulling the Brake and PS fluids that is exactly what I would have needed to do as well some will argue why bother. You just removed a lot of contaminated moisture holding fluid from the system, no harm in doing the little extra.
Re the comment about using the impact wrench rather than a torque wrench. The gentleman obviously failed to take note of the color of the socket extension. The color is indicative of the torque produced to the socket. Just saying. Retired diesel fitter/mechanic here. 55 years in the trade and thoroughly enjoy watching your work Ray. Cheers from the land down under. Keep up the good work and remain positive amongst any negative feed back.
Like all of your video's so far. Use to do most of my own car repairs in my youth. Retired now and just watch your video's every day. About 4-5 a day. Born in new York state but live in jolly old England now. Keep up the good work.
I wish you worked in the UK, 110% you'd get all of my custom. Finding a decent, honest and reputable mechanic over here is so hard!! Keep up the good work Ray, your vids are EPIC 🤘😎🤘
I remember doing the brakes on my old car .I pushed the pistons back into the caliper, but the master cylinder was only a small one ,so the fluid filled it up and over the top all over the ground. Didn't do that again. I enjoy watching your videos on how to do it properly.
thats what I always do.. but the common theme of these videos seems to be more force, longer handle, etc. . I use a hammer tap on a wrench if i cant get a small impact in someplace.. works every time and ive never broken a bolt doing it
That is good to see that you cannot just let the car go with terrible brake fluid and powered steering fluid the sign of a a good mechanic not just a fitter ✅
Thanks, I learned two useful things in these videos. The crowbar trick for putting tires back on and what the real reason for that flat washer/nut thing on the rotor was for and that I didn't need to worry about it.
Some replacement rotors have them, though yes, they are just to retain the rotor when the bracket is off. Some rotors carry a small screw to retain them. In rust belt areas like mine, those are a huge pain as they basically rust weld to the rotor and have to be drilled out.
Ages ago, when I was a very green wrench turner, an older, experienced guy clued me in about those. "Assembly clips," to keep the rotor on, as vehicles go down the assembly line. Absolutely not needed once the vehicle rolls out of the plant.
Rainman, enjoy your video's. In the near future I will bring my 06 Silverado in for service (I live in Seminole). Keep M coming. There are sane people like me out here who really enjoy your video's. Thanks.
I’ve owned several Express vans and have done most of the service and repair work myself. As vans go the GM design is a good design compared to the other brands in my opinion. I’ve done the fluid change on my vans, except I didn’t have the spiffy vacuum system and did mine with a hand pump and reservoir. Great videos
I have a question for you I have a express cutaway it has a 14 bolt 9.50 semi float axle do you know what size the axle seal is it has a leak inside the rear rotor were the seal is bad
Found your channel about a week or so ago. Enjoying watching and learning. I'm a 96.4% DIYer. I'm leaning to become more methodical and intentional with my repairs! Just found a caliper on my '03 Forester that the pistons were sneezed. Pulling the caliper apart, cleaned things up. And was able to push the pistons back in with my hand.
I would never attempt to do repair or replace anything to do with my brakes. I will leave that to the mechanics that do it very often and won’t make stupid mistakes that would cause a catastrophic accident as I was driving down the road. You have all the right tools and knowledge that most of us out here simply don’t. I’ve watched it done many many times on TH-cam, and have seen vehicles come in after the owner tries to do break jobs at home. And how close to a disaster they had come by trying to “FIX IT” at home. NO THANK YOU! I want to drive without being scared if I had done everything correctly. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
@@andylucas8262 It might be, but I don’t want to take the chance with my and my family’s lives. Due to a small stupid mistake I might have made. Watching a mechanic pointing out little things other SHADETREE MECHANICS have made that could possibly cause a catastrophic accident, makes me glad I have a wonderful in town mechanic. As I said before, I will leave repairs to a professional. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
You trick with the pry bar for tires works great I used similar method to re install my huge rear tatctor tires that weigh around 350 pounds filled with fluid
I've learned the hard way that when those GM calipers push in real hard like that often the phenolic pistons have swelled (due to moisture absorption) and will stick on their way back out, wearing out the pads prematurely. Phenolic piston swell was something I knew nothing about until I had it happen on an 80K miles 02 GMC Sierra that had it's first brake job a few months back. It had regular brake fluid changes over the years, too. right rear caliper pushed in pretty hard. I just replaced the caliper pistons all around after that.
I'm so jealous of not needing to hammer off the routers! Doing a brake job on a 2019 Mack with disk brakes this week was a nightmare! Even my copy of big nasty was defeated. Finally got the disk off with a 20 pound hammer. ( and a lot of 4 letter words)
In many States, they have added “premises open to the public” to the areas where they may ticket you. A premises open to the public is simply private property where the public can access. Why, any sane person would ask. Simple, they need more revenue of course. Anyway, great video again, thank you.
Good point. A friend of mine got a ticket for not coming to a complete stop at a stop sign that was in the parking lot of a shopping center. 100% private property but, he still had to pay the ticket.
That's government over reach for you but pretty much every state has the same law about stop signs if their is one treat it as a road way or get a ticket. Coworker got a stop sign ticket inside a private gated community not open to the public.
A simple matter of safety. If the big red octagonal sign isn't enough to remind you, would a verbal warning help? But a few high price tickets get the message through to all but the most stubborn. Regard them as a voluntary donation to the family reminder box. (yes it would be nice if the money went to a family trip or a favourite charity instead of to a level of government)
Nemeth v. State Of Florida Nemeth was driving in his apartment complex, when an officer noticed that Nemeth was driving without headlights. Oops. This is a DUI waiting to happen, as we all know, and this traffic stop led to Nemeth’s conviction for DUI. Also, no headlights constitutes a violation of Vehicle Statutes. So, was the police officer outside of his jurisdiction when he made this stop in an apartment complex parking lot? As you know, the police have the right to enforce traffic citations on a “street or highway”, but the court found that an apartment parking lot did not meet the definition of a street or highway, as it was “open to use of public for purposes of vehicular traffic” Basically, the state never presented any evidence that this parking lot was open to use of the public, and I doubt they ever could present such evidence. It’s common knowledge that these parking lots have “Tow Notices” posted, which warn non-residences that their unlawful parking will result in the car being towed. So, even though there was no evidence to show that just anyone and everyone is entitled to publicly park in this apartment complex, the state may be able to justify the officer’s action under Statutes 316.006(3)(b), which states that an officer “may exercise jurisdiction over any private road…if the county and party…owning or controlling such road or roads provide, by written agreement…for county traffic control jurisdiction over the road.” Basically, if a land owner (apartment, condo, shopping center, etc) has a written agreement with law enforcement, then the cops may issue traffic citations on their private property. This ruling, of course, does not apply to criminal matters. Crimes may be investigated on private property without such an agreement. Thus, say an officer suspects a driver of DUI. DUI is a crime, and that car may be stopped in the apartment complex of business parking lot. But, if the car has a broken tail light and no suspicion of criminal activity-the car on private property cannot be stopped without a written agreement permitting such. Chalk up a tiny victory for we citizens, still concerned over what little rights we have remaining.
Been working with tires n wheels since 1958 @ my dad's Service Station, emphasis Service. Before they left I had pumped their gas, checked under the hood, topped off water, washed the windows, checked the air on the tires. Dad took the money. I was only 8.
Hey, I’m from NE (salt belt) and always remove rust from caliper mounting brackets then apply a little caliper lube under new stainless pad holders. Ik your in the sun belt but just a FYI. Love the videos brother, keep’m coming
I was thinking the same thing. Ppl in the sun belt have got it made. I kinda makes me chuckle when the southern mechanics complain about seizes bolts. I look at and go shit that only 9 months old up here in the salt belt. Easy peasy. Lol
@@Sicktrickintuner I'm in the Ontario salt belt too. I usually do brakes and rotors every couple of years. My exhaust is starting to fall apart on a 6 year old car too. Hate this Goddamn salt
I like the little toy you use to press the pistons back into the brake caliper, probably better than using a c-clamp and the worn-out brake pad itself... (been there, done it - gently of course, so as not to damage the caliper)
I guess your low key sales pitch for the brake caliper tool worked. They're apparently sold out. It says currently unavailable. Looks like there's other brands available, which look the same. Enjoyed the video, thanks.
There's no need for such a tool. Crack the bleeder open a bit, insert a prybar or large screwdriver into the hole in the caliper and let it rest on the front side of the disk. Then pull on the prybar until it stops. Close the bleeder and you're done.
I wish you were in Phoenix Arizona. I have had too many bad experiences here and having trouble finding a reliable mechanic. Watching your videos give me hope that there are honest mechanics out there.
I have never done a brake job of any kind, including the master cylinder, without doing a power bleed. I am retired now but maybe there has been a change of thought? I still own and use a Motive Power Bleeder - easiest and quickest to use.
Nothing changed. Just the customer declined the brake fluid change. From the other hand Ray did not open the hydraulic part of the brake system, so virtually no air entered the system. That is why the bleeding step was skipped. I totally agree that this system desperately needed fluid replacement, but many people don't realize that keeping the old fluid actually make more damage to the system ( due to the corrosion inhibitors wear out and internal corrosion due the trapped moisture ), which ends in more expensive and inevitable repairs ( if you want to have breaks of course 🙂 ). I don't know how expensive is to perform the power break flush, but for me it was always way cheaper than suddenly loosing brakes due to line puncture due to internal corrosion.
@@Pitmanworker False economy by the customer, terrible decision to cheap out on such a vital, necessary, step, I mean how much extra would that cost, but I guess the customer is always right....
I always use a pry bar to compress the calipers as I remove them then just slap it back together when I get my parts. I do like the tool you had for some circumstances though it would be nice. I used to have a squeeze compressor but it only did single piston calipers the one you have will do them all.
Not bad. Should have cracked the bleeder screw, connect a hose and a catch can when compressing calipers. You don’t want dirty brake fluid going back into a abs/VSA unit. Second. I would have used brake caliper assembly lube under and above the shims. Must not live in a rust belt as typically you would have to remove the rust buildup under the shim. Lastly for piece of mind, torque all bolts to factory specs
I'm sure I'll get flamed for this and I'm not trying to be an ass, but I disagree with NOT opening the bleeder screw and pushing the old fluid out instead of back in when pushing the pistons back in. It also makes this process very easy, very little effort and you really don't need a special tool. Maybe an old pad and some pliers. Also, I always bleed fresh fluid to the calipers when I do a brake job. What's the point of sucking out old fluid from the reservoir and refilling if you still have nasty old fluid at the caliper? Again, not looking for a fight, I know I'm in the minority but my way feels like a much better job. Thanks for your videos, I am a new watcher/sub and I really enjoy them. You are one of the few that does professional videos of car repair with little to no cussing, etc. It makes a difference.
I'm from the era when brake fluid was exposed to moist air in the master cylinder and contamination was certain (brake fluid was (is?) hydroscopic). Since the 60s when brakes became closed systems I like to release the dirty caliper fluid while pushing back the pistons and replace it with fresh at the master cylinder. I would do a flush and change if colour was off or if some idiot had topped up with oil or antifreeze. (I've seen both- and the resulting damage done to rubber parts under hydraulic pressure)
The did they not explain to the customer that if we don't change both fluids it will can and will damage the power steering system and rot out the pipes and possibly seize up the brake calipers or damage the master brake cylinder again (as it already broke the master brake cylinder) Not sure if there was much point in changing the fluid in the container as the lines and brake calipers have old water soaked brake fluid in thrm
I prefer to change fluids fully. (And I use a moisture meter on brake fluid about 2 or 3 times a year). But the water in brake fluid spreads rapidly, so I guess replacing fresh/dry fluid in the reservoir helps the whole system. PS oil circulates, so at least it's a bit better/cleaner all the way through. As I said, I like to do it the old-fashioned way :-)
It definitely helps. I’d think at least half of the fluid (and contaminants) is in the reservoir. In any case diluting the contamination by 50% is better than nothing. On my own vehicles, I’ll replace the fluid in the reservoir a few times in a short interval. So, I might do brake fluid a couple times in 10,000 miles then wait another 30-50k before doing it again. I might do ps fluid 2-3 times in 5,000 miles, then go until 30-50k on it. I’ll do it more often if the fluid looks bad.
The master cylinder didn’t break, the hydroboost was leaking power steering fluid. He used the same master cylinder after changing the leaking booster. A brake problem didn’t cause that, normal wear and tear is what did that. It’s common for those brake boosters to leak power steering fluid at about 100,000 miles. I just buy a seal kit and change the piston seal in mine when that happens. A reman booster can cost up to $500 or more, the seal kit is about $50 and your time changing the seals.
I had my rear brake lock up on me during a 600 mile trip because the mechanic that did my brakes the day before I left didn't clean the mating surfaces the clips lock into. A little rust and a lazy mechanic not wanting to take the 10 seconds to wire brush the surface rust off left me stranded and with a bashed finger after having to take the brakes apart to fix it myself. It was a Silverado 2500 too. Glad you are getting the job done in under the estimate though, good job!
Man that torque measurement is new to me . I still use the German guentight, or china fuccatight method. Im guessing the grunt method must be u.s spec ?
Um excweeze me sir, it appears you forgot (or normally don't) to lube the metal hardware where the pads slide back and fourth on them. Do you normally not lube that? 16:30 see where the ears on the pad slide into the metal clip on the caliper? I always lube that prior to installing the pad because as the caliper goes in and out against the rotor it slide in that channel. Also one other thing (and maybe you just didn't show it) the new rotor you never cleaned it with brake clean? They normally coat them to stop them from rusting while sitting waiting to be sold. That coating can smoke if you don't clean it off when the new pads heat up. It could also contaminate the pads.
I realize that as a fleet service provider, it’s rush rush rush. It would be a good idea to clean, adjust and lubricate the parking brake components while the drum are off? Too bad the owner chose NOT to flush those brake fluid…
Nothing really to adjust or lube on that style of system. You could hit it with some brake clean, but that really is about it. It's mostly just springs and the shoes. Same with full fledge drum systems. Only time to really adjust them is when the shoes are replaced. Because they are basically at their adjustment with the current ones.
@@slayerjohn447: I disagree on the brake shoes/ parking brakes. I add just a dab of either anti seize or silicone paste on the brake show adjuster and the backing plate contact points. This just keeps those parts moving freely and allows the technician to remove any type of corrosion. Fleet service owners appreciate these small touches since they have a business to run and don’t need down time in their vehicles.
@@jamram9924 And nothing wrong with doing that, though in my experience the drum is harder to get off then anything else inside the assembly, so I usually anti-seize the hub mating surface. But to each their own, as there is a hundred ways to do the same job.
I guess every mechanic has his own preferred way to do the brake fluid purge. Since I don't have a fancy brake system fluid flush machine,and I do it at home in my garage , I've just always done it the old fashioned way. By bleeding the brakes and of course have a helper to pump the pedal. I do remove the old M/C fluid down to just above the *minimum* line on the reservoir with a turkey baster, then refill to max level with new fluid before I begin. On my particular vehicle with 3 bleeder valves on each of the frt calipers and two on the rears, it has a special order that you have to bleed the different bleeder valves in per caliper as well as order of the calipers. And I don't have to pay 60+ bux to have it done. Yes it's slower, but it has always worked for me. And I know all of the old fluid and contaminants have been removed from the system. Including new fluid at all 12 caliper pistons. Yes, 12 caliper pistons (Girling and ATE calipers). Since my calipers have been painted, I use clear tubing I found at Lowes in the plumbing section, to slide over the bleeder nipples and let them drain a a can, one each caliper. Saves cleaning up a big mess and ruining the caliper's paint job. It works well for me.
Is it just me that will keep the factory discs at all costs? I'll measure runout and machine if I have to but I'm not bothered by minor grooves. Aftermarket rotors and even oem spare part rotors don't last worth a damn.
If you are doing it - please stop. That mythology around the "factory parts last forever and into the eternity" is just silly. The OEM parts are made in a factory at the end of the day not on the Hephaestus forge in a darn greek vulcan. Not to mention that when you machine these specific rotors, which are near their end of life, you will not get much more life and will spend double the money for the same repair. Just if you can afford - buy quality parts. If you can't afford them - go for the reasonable choice between price/quality and keep an eye and mind on them ( knowing that they will not last so long ). The cheapest ones are those which should be avoided - those are the piece of junk.
I'm in the northeast salt belt, brakes are a whole different experience here. The rotors that came off look brand new, i would reuse them in a heartbeat!
Rotors are (relatively) cheap these days and manufacturers buy them from suppliers as can you. My Indiana built Subaru uses Akebono as OEM, and anyone can purchase them without the dealer mark up. If your mechanic wants to turn your rotors, get a new mechanic.
I agree. Factory rotors seem to be made out of higher grade metal. I changed one side with the cheap Auto zone and turned the other side. The new rotor didn't have near the grip that the factory one did. I even took it back off and turned it too which made no difference.. I put over 3,500 miles per month on my service van. So have to change brake pads more often. However the factory break pads don't seem to be any better than the middle of the line aftermarket.
Gotta remember gm puts a hellova locktite on those rear calipers....you can always tell if the bolts come out without cussing and fighting you most of wsy the rear brake rotors have been serviced before lol
I just wish he'd switched to the 1/2" ratchet at least. Huge strength difference. Too many people break their 3/8" rather than walking a few feet to the tool box.
A professional can guide his foot so nearly all the force goes vertical and the spanner/wrench can do its job. When I was a spotty teenager, I got this badly wrong--used my foot, put some side load on and it slipped off. Hurt my foot and damaged the bolt head as well :-)
Now I've been reminded. 1980 Land Rover 109", big & fugly nut wouldn't budge. I used a short scaffold pole over the 3/4" drive breaker bar and jumped on it 3 times before the rust let go. The bang was so loud that the neighbours came running out "Do you need an ambulance?" :-)
Currently split from the misses cant sleep for shit... Thanks Ray your vids keep my mind occupied and picked up a few tips for myself keep up the good work from us all in Pembrokeshire uk.
I like the way you start the lug nuts by hand. Makes it really hard to cross-thread anything. Then you use the ugga duggas to tighten them. Like you said, work smarter not harder.
I use a throw away turkey baster to suck and blow the brake fluid in the reservoir. I get most of the sediment out and put fresh fluid in. Then I bleed the calipers until clean fluid comes out of the caliper.
Replacing the brake fluid only in the reservoir, and leaving old fluid in the pump and cylinders was pretty pointless, as brake fluid doesn't circulate in the system.
I've been driving since 1955, [66 years] [50 years on 18 wheelers] and I've 'never' had to renew either brake fluid or hydraulic fluid, is this 'another' scam ???
Yes. Me too I enjoy your videos very much. I find that any little jobs I do around the house. I say to my self. Click. As it’s tightened. Ha ha plus oops gravity if I drop something. Ha ha. Nice one Ray ..
Same here, I made $12,400 profits on investing since I started trading with Charles Schwab his trading strategies are too notch am winning consistently trading with Charles Schwab. He really the best broker I've made a lot of profit investing with him.
After watching so many TH-cam tutorial videos about trading I was still making losses untill Charles Schwab started managing my investment now, I make $6,800 weekly. God bless Charles Schwab. His been a blessing to my family.
Those steel wheels are rusted to destruction around here. They have a groove that fills with dirt and salt in the winter and it won't wash out without removing the wheels so the salt eats right through and the center starts flopping around. We are used to hammering the rotors off because they will be rusted to the axle in the center hole.
Man I hate the humidity when I go down to Florida. I can tolerate the heat but with the humidity its ridiculous but I look at all these cars your working on with no rust and I'm just like you got it easy. I'm sorry I do my own work on my own car up here in New York and the rest I got to deal with is ridiculous sometimes
Brake assembly looks just like the one on my 2016 Express 3500. Recently the truck was tough to move. Turns out rust on the rear brake calipers had bound them to that liner. It was like driving with the brake on. They were stuck good. Also the lug nuts were like a gorilla put them on. When they cracked the whole neighborhood could hear it. Another channel recommends using the brake grease on the liners. I freed them up, wire brushed and used a lithium grease until the new parts arrive. Probably not a bad idea to grease where the pad tab goes into that liner.
Assuming you mean the pad guides I always grease under liners and between liners and tabs basically anywhere it's metal on metal. For my brake jobs I use the permatex extreme ceramic orange brake grease on the slide pins, under the pad shims and between the pads and pistons and on the the rotor and hub mating surfaces it'll work sort of like anti-seize so the next job goes easier and everything stays nice and quiet and slippery
Torque rods are ok but my preference is a torque wrench that way I have equal torque on the wheel nuts. Now that said, our shops up here in Canada have a little edit item on the invoice that states, bring back vehicle for a re-torque in 100 km. If you do and something happens it’s on them if you don’t and something happens it’s on you. Good video Ray.
Like the amazon plug and then the cut away when you ratcheted the caliper compressor so much that it came apart. I have those exact ones and for the bigger calipers you have to have something behind it to stop that
i just use 2 6in c clamps and the old pad to compress the caliper. i dont do brake jobs enough buy the caliper tool plus the c clamps can be used for other things. buy the harbor frieght ones. if you break them you can get new ones free from hf
I've always used the foot or prybar trick when doing tires too. Easier to lift it up and line up bolts. Not perfectly lined up all you gotta do is lift a foot and line up the top stud then let it swing down with the your feet as you lower until it's fully in place. Even works to an extent when working under the cowl on the rear of semi truck when paired with a breaker bar or tire spoon to use as the main lifting force.
Only an idiot waiting for not only a civil suit but actual criminal charges for death and energy uses a impact wrench rather than a torque wrench to tighten down lug nuts. But you go right ahead you the pro. I like watching you because it's like watching a monkey in the zoo. Yes I'm a hater. It makes me appreciate Sarah- in -tune, and Chris fix. You remind me of a lot of things that are done daily in the average commercial garage you know the what not to do things. You get it done but you do it like the guy I used to work with they used to call fingers. Due to the missing ones he got it done too
does the surgeon blame the knife for cutting too deep or is it the surgeons fault for pressing to hard? any long term tech knows their impact guns well. I can feather that trigger to 90ft pounds with a single press and go back in and torque to spec. Its like knowledge. knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad. Experience shows and yours is lacking
he also used a torque stick. dont know what your problem is. my blue one's rating is 130ft lbs. spec on those trucks is 125-150?
That’s the greatest analogy I’ve ever heard
You know that's a torque limiting extension he has on that impact right?
Click. He SAYS at 21:49 that he got the wheels back on AND TORQUED DOWN. Every shop I have ever known to exist uses impacts to tighten the lugs then torques the nuts after all the wheels are on. Go down to your local Sam's club and watch them do a few tires changes. They use the same exact method. I guess they are waiting for their first lawsuit before they change....LOL
I owned auto repair shops for 41 years, it would have been an honor to have had you as an employee. You do your work with care . There is always someone that is an idiot in the crowd. Thank you for the video,I look forward to seeing them.
I make you right, utube is full of health and safety experts 🙄.
I've never owned a torque wrench and I've lived 57 years to tell the tale 😂
I posted a still photo when I did the rear brakes on my F-150. Someone asked me where my jack stands were, I replied that they were in the garage. I was supporting one side at a time with a very solid floor jack, and never went under the vehicle. Karens gotta Karen.
I must be watching way too many of your videos. I was installing a new toilet yesterday at home and when tightening the floor flange nuts on the porcelain inch pounds are required, not foot pounds. When it felt right I said “CLICK” without thinking. I guess that’s ok, I’ll keep watching!! Respectfully, Kevin
😂😂
Better than the porcelain saying click/snap/ooopps.
@@clbcl5 The reason we needed a new one. The handle kept sticking and holding the flapper up. Decided to put new one on. Old style with brass nut was corroded. Had wrench on inside and holding handle outside with considerable force. Wrench slipped, handle twisted, whole side of tank fell to the floor. Happily it was not full of water!!!!!!!
😂 I’ll admit that the “CLICK” part is starting to rub off on me as well. When I had to change a tire the other day I did that as I tightened the lug nuts.
I find myself doing the same now...hahaha...damn Ray!!
I always love the look of new brake rotors. So shiny and full of promise
For like a month (salted roads)
I'm 82 and may never be able to work on vehicles again. I started helping my Dad when I was 10, so I have a little experience. I like the way Ray works. I am blown away by the tools available now. We made and modified a lot of tools. I am smart enough to know that the video is edited. I also know that Ray does not show everything on camera.
I really don't understand haters. That makes for a miserable life. I know, I had two family members that were consumed by their hatred.
Thanks, Ray.
Gotta hand it to Rainman Ray. He repairs every customers car as if it was his own . That's what distinguishes Rainman Ray from all the rest. 👍
Brave putting anything on utube, all the experts come out to abuse you!
Have you sen him repair his own lol, definitely takes care of the customer but not his own at times like most mechanics.
I’m glad Ray pinned the comment. Most people will not pay for the additional time it takes to do the work per manufacturer’s specifications. I enjoy Ray and the videos so I watch. When my truck needs work it goes to dealership. Dealership may take same shortcuts, but I’ve done everything possible to get repair done per manufacturer’s requirements and drive a safe truck.
The idea of sucking the dirty brake and power steering fluid out of their reservoirs w/o having to 'flush' is brilliant. Learned something new. Thanks Ray~!
I buy large syringes on eBay for exactly this purpose
@@CSkwirl I was using a cheap turkey baster from Walmart. Just picked up a couple cheap fluid extractors from amazon that work great.
@@jeffs2809 i don't do it enough to buy a dedicated extractor, i also use the syringes for measuring out 2 stroke oil mix (after cleaning of course) so i get several at a time, the oil/fluids eventually ruins the rubber plunger
Not a new concept, it just make a fluid change faster as all you have remaining is what is in the pipes and hoses.
Without doing an actual flush you're still leaving the dirtiest fluid in the system. (closest to the calipers)
Oh , I'm sooo glad to see you clean the oily components after you were done ! Great job...
Longer the better. I use these videos as a time to just relax and catch some new tricks.
I never thought that I would enjoy watching a guy working on car's - but Ray, I enjoy watching you. Thank you for making my TH-cam app worth the install.
This dude did a great brake job. He goes out of his way to do things correctly that a lot of other mechanics short cut because flat rate. Looks good from my house!
He did a vary sloppy qwik job
@@bigboy6011 what
He didn't grease the shims dude - that's criminal!
Your personality is what makes your videos interesting. Keep talking to the car and your tools and Keep throwing in your mechanic wisdom, they're valuable. Stay positive and away from your potical views. Thanks for everything.
I use a dead blow soft mallet on wrenches when they are that tight at times. Good stuff. Staybsafe and have a great rest of your day!
Great job and full 5 stars for pulling the Brake and PS fluids that is exactly what I would have needed to do as well some will argue why bother. You just removed a lot of contaminated moisture holding fluid from the system, no harm in doing the little extra.
“Two grunts” = tight enough😂. Experience torque specs🤗
AKA gewdundeite
Snug-as-funk
1 grunt 50 ft.#
2 grunts 100...😆
Re the comment about using the impact wrench rather than a torque wrench. The gentleman obviously failed to take note of the color of the socket extension. The color is indicative of the torque produced to the socket. Just saying. Retired diesel fitter/mechanic here. 55 years in the trade and thoroughly enjoy watching your work Ray. Cheers from the land down under. Keep up the good work and remain positive amongst any negative feed back.
You do more than I do, bro. If the customer rejected changing fluids, I don't do it and in some cases don't warranty the work without it
Like all of your video's so far. Use to do most of my own car repairs in my youth. Retired now and just watch your video's every day. About 4-5 a day. Born in new York state but live in jolly old England now. Keep up the good work.
I don't mind the longer videos at all. Great videos and keep up the great work
I wish more mechanics and garages had your level of integrity.
I love your torque system!!! Always use German torque specs!!! Goodentight!
Like a good German girl, Helga Güt-und-tight
I SELDOM WORK ON CARS. I CHOSE COMPUTERS INSTEAD OF MECHANICS. love your shows. you make these simple looking. THANKS!
Great videos man...It would be cool if you could mention the engine displacement and Trans type of the vehicle.
Great camera work.
Really cool!!! Went a head and got the old fluids out! The customer didn’t see what you seen! “That’s awesome!
I wish you worked in the UK, 110% you'd get all of my custom. Finding a decent, honest and reputable mechanic over here is so hard!! Keep up the good work Ray, your vids are EPIC 🤘😎🤘
So true
I remember doing the brakes on my old car .I pushed the pistons back into the caliper, but the master cylinder was only a small one ,so the fluid filled it up and over the top all over the ground.
Didn't do that again. I enjoy watching your videos on how to do it properly.
Tap the end of the wrench with a 3 pound hammer to shock the bracket bolts loose.
Everyday buddy rust belt is unforgiving. 👍🏼
thats what I always do.. but the common theme of these videos seems to be more force, longer handle, etc. . I use a hammer tap on a wrench if i cant get a small impact in someplace.. works every time and ive never broken a bolt doing it
I just use my hand. Knock on wood, no bone fractures yet but the hammer comes in handy every now and then
The loctite is what makes these suck. They never loosen for 18 turns. lol
Jack up your ratchet. It works
I am now officially addicted to your videos. I'm learning ALOT! CLICK!
"Lowest Common Denominator --- kinda like society". Excellent!!!!!
That is good to see that you cannot just let the car go with terrible brake fluid and powered steering fluid the sign of a a good mechanic not just a fitter ✅
Thanks, I learned two useful things in these videos. The crowbar trick for putting tires back on and what the real reason for that flat washer/nut thing on the rotor was for and that I didn't need to worry about it.
Some replacement rotors have them, though yes, they are just to retain the rotor when the bracket is off. Some rotors carry a small screw to retain them. In rust belt areas like mine, those are a huge pain as they basically rust weld to the rotor and have to be drilled out.
Ages ago, when I was a very green wrench turner, an older, experienced guy clued me in about those. "Assembly clips," to keep the rotor on, as vehicles go down the assembly line. Absolutely not needed once the vehicle rolls out of the plant.
Rainman, enjoy your video's. In the near future I will bring my 06 Silverado in for service (I live in Seminole).
Keep M coming. There are sane people like me out here who really enjoy your video's.
Thanks.
I’ve owned several Express vans and have done most of the service and repair work myself. As vans go the GM design is a good design compared to the other brands in my opinion. I’ve done the fluid change on my vans, except I didn’t have the spiffy vacuum system and did mine with a hand pump and reservoir. Great videos
I have a question for you I have a express cutaway it has a 14 bolt 9.50 semi float axle do you know what size the axle seal is it has a leak inside the rear rotor were the seal is bad
Found your channel about a week or so ago. Enjoying watching and learning. I'm a 96.4% DIYer. I'm leaning to become more methodical and intentional with my repairs! Just found a caliper on my '03 Forester that the pistons were sneezed. Pulling the caliper apart, cleaned things up. And was able to push the pistons back in with my hand.
12:07 thats why my dear mechanics use sockets on a breaker bar. Rachets got different purpouse.
I would never attempt to do repair or replace anything to do with my brakes. I will leave that to the mechanics that do it very often and won’t make stupid mistakes that would cause a catastrophic accident as I was driving down the road. You have all the right tools and knowledge that most of us out here simply don’t. I’ve watched it done many many times on TH-cam, and have seen vehicles come in after the owner tries to do break jobs at home. And how close to a disaster they had come by trying to “FIX IT” at home. NO THANK YOU! I want to drive without being scared if I had done everything correctly. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Brakes are one of the easiest things to do. Those are usually a DIYers first attempted auto repair.
@@andylucas8262 It might be, but I don’t want to take the chance with my and my family’s lives. Due to a small stupid mistake I might have made. Watching a mechanic pointing out little things other SHADETREE MECHANICS have made that could possibly cause a catastrophic accident, makes me glad I have a wonderful in town mechanic. As I said before, I will leave repairs to a professional. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
The satisfying snap of nuts and bolts when they haven't moved in a long time...
Versus that silent shearing of a bolt..😏
or the Silence of the Threads... when they decide to pull out with the bolt... not a good day
Or that NOT satisfying snap that you discover means your socket cracked in half and briefly fooled you into thinking the bolt came loose :(
@@HobbyOrganist hate that 😭
Except when they snap off or that force travels right to your hands
You trick with the pry bar for tires works great I used similar method to re install my huge rear tatctor tires that weigh around 350 pounds filled with fluid
I've learned the hard way that when those GM calipers push in real hard like that often the phenolic pistons have swelled (due to moisture absorption) and will stick on their way back out, wearing out the pads prematurely. Phenolic piston swell was something I knew nothing about until I had it happen on an 80K miles 02 GMC Sierra that had it's first brake job a few months back. It had regular brake fluid changes over the years, too. right rear caliper pushed in pretty hard. I just replaced the caliper pistons all around after that.
Chrysler, too...
I'm so jealous of not needing to hammer off the routers! Doing a brake job on a 2019 Mack with disk brakes this week was a nightmare! Even my copy of big nasty was defeated. Finally got the disk off with a 20 pound hammer. ( and a lot of 4 letter words)
Rust deserves 4 letter words
In many States, they have added “premises open to the public” to the areas where they may ticket you. A premises open to the public is simply private property where the public can access. Why, any sane person would ask. Simple, they need more revenue of course. Anyway, great video again, thank you.
Good point. A friend of mine got a ticket for not coming to a complete stop at a stop sign that was in the parking lot of a shopping center. 100% private property but, he still had to pay the ticket.
That's government over reach for you but pretty much every state has the same law about stop signs if their is one treat it as a road way or get a ticket.
Coworker got a stop sign ticket inside a private gated community not open to the public.
A simple matter of safety. If the big red octagonal sign isn't enough to remind you, would a verbal warning help? But a few high price tickets get the message through to all but the most stubborn. Regard them as a voluntary donation to the family reminder box. (yes it would be nice if the money went to a family trip or a favourite charity instead of to a level of government)
Nemeth v. State Of Florida
Nemeth was driving in his apartment complex, when an officer noticed that Nemeth was driving without headlights. Oops. This is a DUI waiting to happen, as we all know, and this traffic stop led to Nemeth’s conviction for DUI. Also, no headlights constitutes a violation of Vehicle Statutes. So, was the police officer outside of his jurisdiction when he made this stop in an apartment complex parking lot?
As you know, the police have the right to enforce traffic citations on a “street or highway”, but the court found that an apartment parking lot did not meet the definition of a street or highway, as it was “open to use of public for purposes of vehicular traffic” Basically, the state never presented any evidence that this parking lot was open to use of the public, and I doubt they ever could present such evidence. It’s common knowledge that these parking lots have “Tow Notices” posted, which warn non-residences that their unlawful parking will result in the car being towed. So, even though there was no evidence to show that just anyone and everyone is entitled to publicly park in this apartment complex, the state may be able to justify the officer’s action under Statutes 316.006(3)(b), which states that an officer “may exercise jurisdiction over any private road…if the county and party…owning or controlling such road or roads provide, by written agreement…for county traffic control jurisdiction over the road.”
Basically, if a land owner (apartment, condo, shopping center, etc) has a written agreement with law enforcement, then the cops may issue traffic citations on their private property. This ruling, of course, does not apply to criminal matters. Crimes may be investigated on private property without such an agreement. Thus, say an officer suspects a driver of DUI. DUI is a crime, and that car may be stopped in the apartment complex of business parking lot. But, if the car has a broken tail light and no suspicion of criminal activity-the car on private property cannot be stopped without a written agreement permitting such. Chalk up a tiny victory for we citizens, still concerned over what little rights we have remaining.
Porpoise fully am pig ulous
Of all the tools you use that brake caliper tool is the best
In the rust belt of Ontario CA the rear pads would not make 2 winters with out rust removed and lube
All the damn salt they throw everywhere, even when not needed
Been working with tires n wheels since 1958 @ my dad's Service Station, emphasis Service.
Before they left I had pumped their gas, checked under the hood, topped off water,
washed the windows, checked the air on the tires. Dad took the money. I was only 8.
Hey, I’m from NE (salt belt) and always remove rust from caliper mounting brackets then apply a little caliper lube under new stainless pad holders. Ik your in the sun belt but just a FYI. Love the videos brother, keep’m coming
I was thinking the same thing. Ppl in the sun belt have got it made. I kinda makes me chuckle when the southern mechanics complain about seizes bolts. I look at and go shit that only 9 months old up here in the salt belt. Easy peasy. Lol
@@mikemuzzell5167 as do I... I always preach to my employees that they need to clean the rust off all of those parts before installing new clips...
I'm from New Jersey and I lube under the hardware aswell as were the tabs sit n slide.
Salt belt of Ontario isn’t much better. Rotors will rust out before the brake pads wear down on 3 year old brakes.
@@Sicktrickintuner I'm in the Ontario salt belt too. I usually do brakes and rotors every couple of years. My exhaust is starting to fall apart on a 6 year old car too. Hate this Goddamn salt
I like the little toy you use to press the pistons back into the brake caliper, probably better than using a c-clamp and the worn-out brake pad itself... (been there, done it - gently of course, so as not to damage the caliper)
I guess your low key sales pitch for the brake caliper tool worked. They're apparently sold out. It says currently unavailable. Looks like there's other brands available, which look the same. Enjoyed the video, thanks.
There's no need for such a tool. Crack the bleeder open a bit, insert a prybar or large screwdriver into the hole in the caliper and let it rest on the front side of the disk. Then pull on the prybar until it stops. Close the bleeder and you're done.
eBay has 'em. I just bought one
@@winch1587 You obviously have never run across bleeders that are seized and/or plugged up with years of road grime and rust.
@@catfishbilly7425 opening the bleeder is recommenden but not required.
Whaaaat? I sold all that guys caliper tools?
I wish you were in Phoenix Arizona. I have had too many bad experiences here and having trouble finding a reliable mechanic. Watching your videos give me hope that there are honest mechanics out there.
I have never done a brake job of any kind, including the master cylinder, without doing a power bleed. I am retired now but maybe there has been a change of thought? I still own and use a Motive Power Bleeder - easiest and quickest to use.
Nothing changed. Just the customer declined the brake fluid change.
From the other hand Ray did not open the hydraulic part of the brake system, so virtually no air entered the system. That is why the bleeding step was skipped.
I totally agree that this system desperately needed fluid replacement, but many people don't realize that keeping the old fluid actually make more damage to the system ( due to the corrosion inhibitors wear out and internal corrosion due the trapped moisture ), which ends in more expensive and inevitable repairs ( if you want to have breaks of course 🙂 ).
I don't know how expensive is to perform the power break flush, but for me it was always way cheaper than suddenly loosing brakes due to line puncture due to internal corrosion.
@@Pitmanworker False economy by the customer, terrible decision to cheap out on such a vital, necessary, step, I mean how much extra would that cost, but I guess the customer is always right....
I always use a pry bar to compress the calipers as I remove them then just slap it back together when I get my parts. I do like the tool you had for some circumstances though it would be nice. I used to have a squeeze compressor but it only did single piston calipers the one you have will do them all.
owner paid to have all that work done but cut corners on a very needed fluid exchange?
That is pure idiocy
The guy decided he didn't want the fluid flush but Ray did sorta one anyway. Pay attention Pilgrim! Why people have to be so harsh? Watch and learn.
Not bad. Should have cracked the bleeder screw, connect a hose and a catch can when compressing calipers. You don’t want dirty brake fluid going back into a abs/VSA unit. Second. I would have used brake caliper assembly lube under and above the shims. Must not live in a rust belt as typically you would have to remove the rust buildup under the shim. Lastly for piece of mind, torque all bolts to factory specs
no private warning now, thank you for part 2.
I'm sure I'll get flamed for this and I'm not trying to be an ass, but I disagree with NOT opening the bleeder screw and pushing the old fluid out instead of back in when pushing the pistons back in. It also makes this process very easy, very little effort and you really don't need a special tool. Maybe an old pad and some pliers. Also, I always bleed fresh fluid to the calipers when I do a brake job. What's the point of sucking out old fluid from the reservoir and refilling if you still have nasty old fluid at the caliper? Again, not looking for a fight, I know I'm in the minority but my way feels like a much better job. Thanks for your videos, I am a new watcher/sub and I really enjoy them. You are one of the few that does professional videos of car repair with little to no cussing, etc. It makes a difference.
the customer said he did not want a fluid flush
@@louoldschool7047 even so a fluid change is all fluid
I'm from the era when brake fluid was exposed to moist air in the master cylinder and contamination was certain (brake fluid was (is?) hydroscopic). Since the 60s when brakes became closed systems I like to release the dirty caliper fluid while pushing back the pistons and replace it with fresh at the master cylinder. I would do a flush and change if colour was off or if some idiot had topped up with oil or antifreeze. (I've seen both- and the resulting damage done to rubber parts under hydraulic pressure)
@@dronegirl2024 some folks don't know enough to know they don't know enough
in the rust belt most bleeder valves will break off, best not to mess with
I love watching you're video's and as a result there is no such thing as to long of a video on you're channel
The did they not explain to the customer that if we don't change both fluids it will can and will damage the power steering system and rot out the pipes and possibly seize up the brake calipers or damage the master brake cylinder again (as it already broke the master brake cylinder)
Not sure if there was much point in changing the fluid in the container as the lines and brake calipers have old water soaked brake fluid in thrm
I prefer to change fluids fully. (And I use a moisture meter on brake fluid about 2 or 3 times a year).
But the water in brake fluid spreads rapidly, so I guess replacing fresh/dry fluid in the reservoir helps the whole system. PS oil circulates, so at least it's a bit better/cleaner all the way through.
As I said, I like to do it the old-fashioned way :-)
It definitely helps. I’d think at least half of the fluid (and contaminants) is in the reservoir. In any case diluting the contamination by 50% is better than nothing.
On my own vehicles, I’ll replace the fluid in the reservoir a few times in a short interval. So, I might do brake fluid a couple times in 10,000 miles then wait another 30-50k before doing it again. I might do ps fluid 2-3 times in 5,000 miles, then go until 30-50k on it. I’ll do it more often if the fluid looks bad.
The master cylinder didn’t break, the hydroboost was leaking power steering fluid. He used the same master cylinder after changing the leaking booster. A brake problem didn’t cause that, normal wear and tear is what did that. It’s common for those brake boosters to leak power steering fluid at about 100,000 miles. I just buy a seal kit and change the piston seal in mine when that happens. A reman booster can cost up to $500 or more, the seal kit is about $50 and your time changing the seals.
Brake fluid is water based. But yes it did need changed
@@daniellaw2528 ... and there goes another flock of pigs!
yes it is smart to use a pry bar on semi tires thank you for the compliment
"It safe. . . Sort of." Lol, that's a common heard quote
I had my rear brake lock up on me during a 600 mile trip because the mechanic that did my brakes the day before I left didn't clean the mating surfaces the clips lock into. A little rust and a lazy mechanic not wanting to take the 10 seconds to wire brush the surface rust off left me stranded and with a bashed finger after having to take the brakes apart to fix it myself. It was a Silverado 2500 too. Glad you are getting the job done in under the estimate though, good job!
Man that torque measurement is new to me . I still use the German guentight, or china fuccatight method. Im guessing the grunt method must be u.s spec ?
also dont forget the other german spec.... guensnug.... yah!!!!
@mrpresident i prefer perkele units
The tire trick? Been using my feet for years. It's a great tip!
Um excweeze me sir, it appears you forgot (or normally don't) to lube the metal hardware where the pads slide back and fourth on them. Do you normally not lube that? 16:30 see where the ears on the pad slide into the metal clip on the caliper? I always lube that prior to installing the pad because as the caliper goes in and out against the rotor it slide in that channel.
Also one other thing (and maybe you just didn't show it) the new rotor you never cleaned it with brake clean? They normally coat them to stop them from rusting while sitting waiting to be sold. That coating can smoke if you don't clean it off when the new pads heat up. It could also contaminate the pads.
In the rust belt of Ontario CA the rear pads would not make 2 winters with out rust removed and lube.
probably don't need in florida
@@louoldschool7047 What no road salt?😃
@@jeffsmith7568 , no snow, no ice, no salt, just a lot of heat
I actually got rid of my car the repairs were so expensive, unnecessary and so poorly done. You’ve restored my faith in car repair guys.
I realize that as a fleet service provider, it’s rush rush rush.
It would be a good idea to clean, adjust and lubricate the parking brake components while the drum are off? Too bad the owner chose NOT to flush those brake fluid…
Nothing really to adjust or lube on that style of system. You could hit it with some brake clean, but that really is about it. It's mostly just springs and the shoes. Same with full fledge drum systems. Only time to really adjust them is when the shoes are replaced. Because they are basically at their adjustment with the current ones.
@@slayerjohn447: I disagree on the brake shoes/ parking brakes. I add just a dab of either anti seize or silicone paste on the brake show adjuster and the backing plate contact points. This just keeps those parts moving freely and allows the technician to remove any type of corrosion. Fleet service owners appreciate these small touches since they have a business to run and don’t need down time in their vehicles.
@@jamram9924 And nothing wrong with doing that, though in my experience the drum is harder to get off then anything else inside the assembly, so I usually anti-seize the hub mating surface. But to each their own, as there is a hundred ways to do the same job.
Don't forget to have a great day as well Ray 👍👌
I always open the breeders when compressing the calipers,gives them a little fresh fluid anyways
Sounds like a porno movie!
@@getsmarter5412 Exxxactly.
I guess every mechanic has his own preferred way to do the brake fluid purge. Since I don't have a fancy brake system fluid flush machine,and I do it at home in my garage , I've just always done it the old fashioned way. By bleeding the brakes and of course have a helper to pump the pedal. I do remove the old M/C fluid down to just above the *minimum* line on the reservoir with a turkey baster, then refill to max level with new fluid before I begin.
On my particular vehicle with 3 bleeder valves on each of the frt calipers and two on the rears, it has a special order that you have to bleed the different bleeder valves in per caliper as well as order of the calipers. And I don't have to pay 60+ bux to have it done. Yes it's slower, but it has always worked for me. And I know all of the old fluid and contaminants have been removed from the system. Including new fluid at all 12 caliper pistons. Yes, 12 caliper pistons (Girling and ATE calipers). Since my calipers have been painted, I use clear tubing I found at Lowes in the plumbing section, to slide over the bleeder nipples and let them drain a a can, one each caliper. Saves cleaning up a big mess and ruining the caliper's paint job. It works well for me.
I love the caliper piston tool!!! Better than channel locks!
Is it just me that will keep the factory discs at all costs? I'll measure runout and machine if I have to but I'm not bothered by minor grooves. Aftermarket rotors and even oem spare part rotors don't last worth a damn.
If you are doing it - please stop. That mythology around the "factory parts last forever and into the eternity" is just silly. The OEM parts are made in a factory at the end of the day not on the Hephaestus forge in a darn greek vulcan.
Not to mention that when you machine these specific rotors, which are near their end of life, you will not get much more life and will spend double the money for the same repair.
Just if you can afford - buy quality parts. If you can't afford them - go for the reasonable choice between price/quality and keep an eye and mind on them ( knowing that they will not last so long ).
The cheapest ones are those which should be avoided - those are the piece of junk.
I'm in the northeast salt belt, brakes are a whole different experience here. The rotors that came off look brand new, i would reuse them in a heartbeat!
Rotors are (relatively) cheap these days and manufacturers buy them from suppliers as can you.
My Indiana built Subaru uses Akebono as OEM, and anyone can purchase them without the dealer mark up.
If your mechanic wants to turn your rotors, get a new mechanic.
I agree. Factory rotors seem to be made out of higher grade metal. I changed one side with the cheap Auto zone and turned the other side. The new rotor didn't have near the grip that the factory one did. I even took it back off and turned it too which made no difference.. I put over 3,500 miles per month on my service van. So have to change brake pads more often. However the factory break pads don't seem to be any better than the middle of the line aftermarket.
Gotta remember gm puts a hellova locktite on those rear calipers....you can always tell if the bolts come out without cussing and fighting you most of wsy the rear brake rotors have been serviced before lol
So, a professional like Rainman wouldn't put his foot on that wrench to break loose that over-tight bolt, would he? Of course not! 😁
I just wish he'd switched to the 1/2" ratchet at least. Huge strength difference. Too many people break their 3/8" rather than walking a few feet to the tool box.
He was using foot pounds.
Or use a B.F.H.
A professional can guide his foot so nearly all the force goes vertical and the spanner/wrench can do its job.
When I was a spotty teenager, I got this badly wrong--used my foot, put some side load on and it slipped off. Hurt my foot and damaged the bolt head as well :-)
Now I've been reminded. 1980 Land Rover 109", big & fugly nut wouldn't budge. I used a short scaffold pole over the 3/4" drive breaker bar and jumped on it 3 times before the rust let go. The bang was so loud that the neighbours came running out "Do you need an ambulance?" :-)
I like to add a thin film of grease on the back of the pads where they make contact with the calipers.
I do too
and on the ears of the pads is good to put some wheel bearing grease so they don't squeak
6:15 to avoid a copyright claim... you might as well be walking on the sun.
Oh Smash Mouth, You still remind me of my youth.
Currently split from the misses cant sleep for shit... Thanks Ray your vids keep my mind occupied and picked up a few tips for myself keep up the good work from us all in Pembrokeshire uk.
Makes no sense not to change the liquids.. not doing it will destroy the system.
pennies chasing dollars
many years ago in an emergency i had to use cooking oil for break fluid. it worked till i got to where i was going and got it fixed properly.
Suggestion: anyone who fixes cars ought to watch a little “South Main Auto Repair”
I think everyone can learn something from Eric
I like the way you start the lug nuts by hand. Makes it really hard to cross-thread anything. Then you use the ugga duggas to tighten them. Like you said, work smarter not harder.
@Self Made Auto it is. Some people will still skip it in a rush or ignore it until they have to spend over an hour drilling out the lug nuts though.
I dont like that you dont file /sand under the "shims" and the other contact point of the pads.
I use a throw away turkey baster to suck and blow the brake fluid in the reservoir. I get most of the sediment out and put fresh fluid in. Then I bleed the calipers until clean fluid comes out of the caliper.
I put anti rattle/squeak lube between all metal components in brakes
after week i'd say im really into mechanic automotive engineering LOL i find it entertaining when you do it satisfying
Replacing the brake fluid only in the reservoir, and leaving old fluid in the pump and cylinders was pretty pointless, as brake fluid doesn't circulate in the system.
Then how does it get discolored in the reservoir?
I'm thinking it thermosyphons like old time engine cooling systems without a pump.
@@fubartotale3389 The mixing process does occur, but it is a very slow process. Also, discoloration may be due to water absorption from the air.
I love those Geolandars. Great tire!
I've been driving since 1955, [66 years] [50 years on 18 wheelers] and I've 'never' had to renew either brake fluid or hydraulic fluid, is this 'another' scam ???
Lol! I see what you did there.
Yes. Me too I enjoy your videos very much. I find that any little jobs I do around the house. I say to my self. Click. As it’s tightened. Ha ha plus oops gravity if I drop something. Ha ha. Nice one Ray ..
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I heard a lot of investing with Charles Schwab and how good he is, please how safe are the profit?
After watching so many TH-cam tutorial videos about trading I was still making losses untill Charles Schwab started managing my investment now, I make $6,800 weekly. God bless Charles Schwab. His been a blessing to my family.
I've seen a lot of recommendation about Charles Schwab, Please can I have his info? I want to invest 2,000usd with him.
Shame the customer didn't want the fluids changed. Great Stuff!
@17:09 - I would have probably also relieved the air in the caliper piston boots so the pads didn’t pinch or rub on them.
Those steel wheels are rusted to destruction around here. They have a groove that fills with dirt and salt in the winter and it won't wash out without removing the wheels so the salt eats right through and the center starts flopping around. We are used to hammering the rotors off because they will be rusted to the axle in the center hole.
Man I hate the humidity when I go down to Florida. I can tolerate the heat but with the humidity its ridiculous but I look at all these cars your working on with no rust and I'm just like you got it easy. I'm sorry I do my own work on my own car up here in New York and the rest I got to deal with is ridiculous sometimes
Brake assembly looks just like the one on my 2016 Express 3500. Recently the truck was tough to move. Turns out rust on the rear brake calipers had bound them to that liner. It was like driving with the brake on. They were stuck good. Also the lug nuts were like a gorilla put them on. When they cracked the whole neighborhood could hear it. Another channel recommends using the brake grease on the liners. I freed them up, wire brushed and used a lithium grease until the new parts arrive. Probably not a bad idea to grease where the pad tab goes into that liner.
Assuming you mean the pad guides I always grease under liners and between liners and tabs basically anywhere it's metal on metal. For my brake jobs I use the permatex extreme ceramic orange brake grease on the slide pins, under the pad shims and between the pads and pistons and on the the rotor and hub mating surfaces it'll work sort of like anti-seize so the next job goes easier and everything stays nice and quiet and slippery
Excellent video. Did it just like I used to do it. Goodmluck.
open box wrench dbl-put box end on bolt/nut, 2nd box end on open end of first wrench-more leverage.
Torque rods are ok but my preference is a torque wrench that way I have equal torque on the wheel nuts. Now that said, our shops up here in Canada have a little edit item on the invoice that states, bring back vehicle for a re-torque in 100 km. If you do and something happens it’s on them if you don’t and something happens it’s on you. Good video Ray.
Like the amazon plug and then the cut away when you ratcheted the caliper compressor so much that it came apart. I have those exact ones and for the bigger calipers you have to have something behind it to stop that
I does use a 'G' camp to compress the caliper.
i just use 2 6in c clamps and the old pad to compress the caliper. i dont do brake jobs enough buy the caliper tool plus the c clamps can be used for other things. buy the harbor frieght ones. if you break them you can get new ones free from hf
Glad to see I’m not the only one who rolls the tire up on their foot.
I roll the tire onto the end of a short piece of a 2x4 to leverage it onto the studs.
I've always used the foot or prybar trick when doing tires too. Easier to lift it up and line up bolts. Not perfectly lined up all you gotta do is lift a foot and line up the top stud then let it swing down with the your feet as you lower until it's fully in place. Even works to an extent when working under the cowl on the rear of semi truck when paired with a breaker bar or tire spoon to use as the main lifting force.
Have a great day Ray Ray!!