Attention! This video contains mistakes: 06:48 - the tightening torque is 27 Nm, not 55 Nm. 08:38 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 72 Nm. 08:45 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm. 08:51 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 75 Nm. 09:37 - the tightening torque is 110 Nm, not 75 Nm. 10:43 - the tightening torque is 28 Nm, not 38 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
What is worth emphasising, as it was a mistake that I made, is the the orientation of the top plate has to be correct when reassembling the the strut as, unlike with the front strut, you can not rotate it once it's assembled.
@@The_North0 You can't get a bolt through the bottom hole of the strut to bolt into the knuckle, as it points the bolt away from the knuckle hole... as I found out last year. The front strut can be rotated on the top mount bearing to fit. The rear can't.
@@The_North0 You can't rotate the bottom of the strut to align the bolt hole to the knuckle bolt hole. As the interface between the strut top and the body is held by 3 bolts, you can have it at 0, 120, 240 degrees.
7:42 How did you get the lower strut to be the same height as the knuckle ? My knuckle is much higher in its free position. I have to stand on it to get it to lower to the right position but then I am unable to get the bolt in.
It is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car or we recommend consulting with your mechanic.
@@autodocuk I've since attached the lower strut to the knuckle. It required me pushing down hard on the knuckle to get the holes to align. When the lower control arm is installed, the bushes' torsional stiffness give it a no-load position, which should, presumably, be about the vehicle's static ride height.
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
06:48 - the tightening torque is 27 Nm, not 55 Nm.
08:38 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 72 Nm.
08:45 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm.
08:51 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 75 Nm.
09:37 - the tightening torque is 110 Nm, not 75 Nm.
10:43 - the tightening torque is 28 Nm, not 38 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
7:47 nice cross-threading mate :D
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Very well put together video hood work
Amazing diy
I lake it. Very good
What is worth emphasising, as it was a mistake that I made, is the the orientation of the top plate has to be correct when reassembling the the strut as, unlike with the front strut, you can not rotate it once it's assembled.
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
What happend if reassembled in the incorrect orientation?
@@The_North0
You can't get a bolt through the bottom hole of the strut to bolt into the knuckle, as it points the bolt away from the knuckle hole...
as I found out last year.
The front strut can be rotated on the top mount bearing to fit. The rear can't.
@@lewis72 interesting. I didn’t know that. I replaced all my struts four years ago and I wasn’t aware of that.
@@The_North0
You can't rotate the bottom of the strut to align the bolt hole to the knuckle bolt hole.
As the interface between the strut top and the body is held by 3 bolts, you can have it at 0, 120, 240 degrees.
Was the arms broken or it’s just good practice to change them too ?
Yes, in this case, there was a need to replace not only the shock absorbers but also the levers, they also failed.
@@autodocuk thanks,ordered all four of them just in case 👍🏻
What sort of extension did you use to take off the bottom bolt from the brake caliper bracket?
We used the 1005S-7 HAZET
7:42
How did you get the lower strut to be the same height as the knuckle ?
My knuckle is much higher in its free position. I have to stand on it to get it to lower to the right position but then I am unable to get the bolt in.
It is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car or we recommend consulting with your mechanic.
@@autodocuk
I've since attached the lower strut to the knuckle.
It required me pushing down hard on the knuckle to get the holes to align.
When the lower control arm is installed, the bushes' torsional stiffness give it a no-load position, which should, presumably, be about the vehicle's static ride height.
Good 👍👍👍
What is the real time? Approx?? Please!
👍 👍 👍 Thx
You don’t have to disassemble that much. Just take out the druk insert.
Right
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My shock didnt drop out of the tower. That's where I got stuck. Shi...still stuck.
I think. He removed. No necessary components...but was fine
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