Attention! This video contains mistakes: 7:05 - the tightening torque is 64 Nm, not 60 Nm. 10:53 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 80 Nm. 10:58 - the tightening torque is 81 Nm, not 75 Nm. 11:03 - the tightening torque is 65 Nm, not 50 Nm. 11:12 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm. 11:19 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm. 12:24 - the tightening torque is 34 Nm, not 38 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
I know the purpose of the video is how to change the front shock strut, but did you guys just put back that old used dust protector ruber thingy, what doesnt even protect properly the new strut?:D Mine looks the same now and thinking about ordering a new dust protector (or how its called ) kit to protect my strut from dirt.
Thanks for your feedback! We are glad that you like our work. Keep for updates. You are right, the purpose of the video is how to change the front shock absorber strut, and since the boot with the bump stop is in good condition, it was cleaned and put back.
he doesn't need to rephrase his question, anytime you compress any caliper on ANY vehicle, pressure will expand in the brake reservoir .... so yeah you have to remove the cap. especially on a e60 , the brake fluid reservoir cap has a sensor on it. you can risk the reservoir being popped like a balloon, or damaging the sensor.
Your mechanic is not only highly skilled but meticulous to not damage any parts, bolts or nuts he removed - and protect the hardware and the wheel hub (!) with Cu grease. Impressive high quality work.
@@autodocuk Yes, I am trying to learn about the Active Roll Stabilizer bar in my wife's BMW E60 530i Sport. We hear a knock-knock sound only when turning left (slow or fast turns), yet never on right turns but after testing the car, our local Bosch Service Center advises us to change out the active hydraulically-controlled roll bar (!) and the roll bar links (L and R side) to fix the knocking sound - $3200 US $. As an electrical engineer, I am trying to learn about the hydraulic motor portion of the active bar. I would assume that this hydraulic motor would be symmetric whether it was twisting the bar one way or the other so if the bar itself was broken, then twisting the bar either way would produce the noise. But if the hydraulic motor is truly a symmetric design, then the source of the sound from one side of the car only must be in the associated links and other ball jointed parts on the right side of the car. I asked the technician at the shop about changing only the (low cost) bar links first to see if that would fix the noise - he shrugged and said they had the built-in BMW test suite actuate the front and rear roll bars as they watched the car rock side to side while sitting still with engine off, and the knock sound was heard coming from the left front side only. Then they raised the car up and manually manipulated various links, control arms, ball joints, etc. but could not find any loose ball joints or fasteners or worn bushings. From that, the technician and the shop's owner concluded that the super expensive active roll bar was the culprit although they both admitted to very limited experience with the "pretty rare" BMW active roll bar. So before dumping big money into the car, my plan is to buy the inexpensive Lemforder or Meyle roll bar links (@ $22 US) and swap them in myself. After watching many other YT vids on this procedure, it seems relatively easy to do and will validate, or not, my supposition regarding the active roll bar symmetry. Can AutoDoc opine or help me better understand the roll bar motor design?
@@TheAutumnWind_RN4Land i am 19, i have never done anything mechanical before buying my e60, if i can you can aswell! Just get the right gear, and lubricant and a hammer!
@Fredrikbjerk alright, youngster. I'll give it a try. Might check Pelican Parts for the step by step. They helped me with my blower motor and resistor. I made the mistake of taking mine to the shop to fix my MoST network. After $500 of diagnostics, they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and suggested I spend $4800 on a new satellite module, body control module, bluetooth module, and shark fin. I took it home, ran codes again, tracked it down to the CIC, and noticed the fiber optic wire was being pinched behind the head unit. I bought an extension wire to give it some room for $20, and now everything works. The best thing about owning a BMW is that they have a community of enthusiasts who have a lot of knowledge about these cars. I'm never going to the dealer to get fleeced again.
@@TheAutumnWind_RN4L that is true, very advanced and technical like the MOST com bus, but i am happy you figured it out. The BMW community is very useful!
That it was not the best way to replace the shock absorber! First of all, you need to fasten the control arms with the car on its wheels! Secondly, you do not have to disassambly so many parts for changing it... In your video list, there is one more video of the same replacing subject, and that it is the correct one! This is kind of wrong and much more work to do.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, we understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, we are working on them and we will not make them in new videos. AUTODOC
An otherwise great repair job is impaired by the poor editing of the video. Prioritization was apparently at producing something sleek looking but unfortunately at the expense of leaving out very important details relevant for the job, particular around building up the suspension component, orientation, seating and order. Either it's clipped completely away and the clips that are available are so short that you have to rewind several times to see a very short glimpse of of what you need to know. Allow for more time when changing scene. It looks like the one responsible for editing didn't know anything about what's important when repairing a car.
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
7:05 - the tightening torque is 64 Nm, not 60 Nm.
10:53 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 80 Nm.
10:58 - the tightening torque is 81 Nm, not 75 Nm.
11:03 - the tightening torque is 65 Nm, not 50 Nm.
11:12 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm.
11:19 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm.
12:24 - the tightening torque is 34 Nm, not 38 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Love the way he cleans and protects all the treads bolt and nuts that’s awesome bro if only all mechanics where like that but great job brothas
We are glad that you enjoy our work!
AUTODOC
I know the purpose of the video is how to change the front shock strut, but did you guys just put back that old used dust protector ruber thingy, what doesnt even protect properly the new strut?:D Mine looks the same now and thinking about ordering a new dust protector (or how its called ) kit to protect my strut from dirt.
Thanks for your feedback!
We are glad that you like our work.
Keep for updates. You are right, the purpose of the video is how to change the front shock absorber strut, and since the boot with the bump stop is in good condition, it was cleaned and put back.
if you get tools to compress the spring when still attached, you dont have to deasamble all controll arms and rods?
For replacement, in any case, it is required to remove the shock absorber strut together with the spring.
AUTODOC
that's how I did. I didn't take any control arm or rods off and I did strut replacement. I decompressed the spring after I put strut back on the car.
That's my plan!🤷🏼♂️
Is it any different for the xdrive model?
In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may differ slightly is the design features of your car.
AUTODOC
probably just the front axle. if you live in the rust belt.. praaaay the nut isn't screwed up
Good job and very informative
When is it necessary or not to remove brake fluid resovoir cap when working around the brakes?
We kindly ask you please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
he doesn't need to rephrase his question, anytime you compress any caliper on ANY vehicle, pressure will expand in the brake reservoir .... so yeah you have to remove the cap. especially on a e60 , the brake fluid reservoir cap has a sensor on it. you can risk the reservoir being popped like a balloon, or damaging the sensor.
how long would you expect this job to take start to finish???
Unfortunately, we do not have such information, we recommend that you consult with your mechanic.
Your mechanic is not only highly skilled but meticulous to not damage any parts, bolts or nuts he removed - and protect the hardware and the wheel hub (!) with Cu grease. Impressive high quality work.
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
@@autodocuk Yes, I am trying to learn about the Active Roll Stabilizer bar in my wife's BMW E60 530i Sport. We hear a knock-knock sound only when turning left (slow or fast turns), yet never on right turns but after testing the car, our local Bosch Service Center advises us to change out the active hydraulically-controlled roll bar (!) and the roll bar links (L and R side) to fix the knocking sound - $3200 US $. As an electrical engineer, I am trying to learn about the hydraulic motor portion of the active bar. I would assume that this hydraulic motor would be symmetric whether it was twisting the bar one way or the other so if the bar itself was broken, then twisting the bar either way would produce the noise. But if the hydraulic motor is truly a symmetric design, then the source of the sound from one side of the car only must be in the associated links and other ball jointed parts on the right side of the car. I asked the technician at the shop about changing only the (low cost) bar links first to see if that would fix the noise - he shrugged and said they had the built-in BMW test suite actuate the front and rear roll bars as they watched the car rock side to side while sitting still with engine off, and the knock sound was heard coming from the left front side only. Then they raised the car up and manually manipulated various links, control arms, ball joints, etc. but could not find any loose ball joints or fasteners or worn bushings. From that, the technician and the shop's owner concluded that the super expensive active roll bar was the culprit although they both admitted to very limited experience with the "pretty rare" BMW active roll bar. So before dumping big money into the car, my plan is to buy the inexpensive Lemforder or Meyle roll bar links (@ $22 US) and swap them in myself. After watching many other YT vids on this procedure, it seems relatively easy to do and will validate, or not, my supposition regarding the active roll bar symmetry. Can AutoDoc opine or help me better understand the roll bar motor design?
How much do 2007-8 go for now?
Thanks for your feedback! Please clarify or rephrase your question.
How long did this take
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Good 👍👍👍
Is this video America? I doubt it with the time and care the engineer took to disassemble clean and reassemble.
There is a Europe on this video.
AUTODOC
that's a lot of work
Yeah, I think it's beyond me.
@@TheAutumnWind_RN4Li had to do this in the parkinglot at home, pretty new to this. Had to break the control arm and tie rod nuts and replaced them
@@TheAutumnWind_RN4Land i am 19, i have never done anything mechanical before buying my e60, if i can you can aswell! Just get the right gear, and lubricant and a hammer!
@Fredrikbjerk alright, youngster. I'll give it a try. Might check Pelican Parts for the step by step. They helped me with my blower motor and resistor. I made the mistake of taking mine to the shop to fix my MoST network. After $500 of diagnostics, they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and suggested I spend $4800 on a new satellite module, body control module, bluetooth module, and shark fin. I took it home, ran codes again, tracked it down to the CIC, and noticed the fiber optic wire was being pinched behind the head unit. I bought an extension wire to give it some room for $20, and now everything works. The best thing about owning a BMW is that they have a community of enthusiasts who have a lot of knowledge about these cars. I'm never going to the dealer to get fleeced again.
@@TheAutumnWind_RN4L that is true, very advanced and technical like the MOST com bus, but i am happy you figured it out. The BMW community is very useful!
That it was not the best way to replace the shock absorber! First of all, you need to fasten the control arms with the car on its wheels! Secondly, you do not have to disassambly so many parts for changing it... In your video list, there is one more video of the same replacing subject, and that it is the correct one! This is kind of wrong and much more work to do.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, we understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, we are working on them and we will not make them in new videos.
AUTODOC
which other video are you referring to? I'm putting Coilovers on mine and I wanna make sure I do it right.
@@farrukhdada6688 This is the correct procedure th-cam.com/video/BEhSGeD15HI/w-d-xo.html
Copper grease with alloy is baddddddd job.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
AUTODOC
An otherwise great repair job is impaired by the poor editing of the video. Prioritization was apparently at producing something sleek looking but unfortunately at the expense of leaving out very important details relevant for the job, particular around building up the suspension component, orientation, seating and order. Either it's clipped completely away and the clips that are available are so short that you have to rewind several times to see a very short glimpse of of what you need to know. Allow for more time when changing scene. It looks like the one responsible for editing didn't know anything about what's important when repairing a car.
Thanks for the clarification, we will think about what can be done with this in the new videos.
Just to change a strut.
2100 dollar job