Probably the best tutorial I've seen on this! So many pros just make swooping statements, never show their pallet, or only show them applying a single layer that their content becomes useless to a new person to the hobby. Well done!
Its like with many other hobbies. People are stressing themselves watching way too many tutorials, trying to find the perfect technique, the perfect colors, the perfect brushes...while in reality nothing is worth more than just painting and making your own experiences. The rough concept of glazing and layering is enough, you will learn SO much by just trying things for yourself and keep painting...having fun. This hobby should be relaxing, not stressful. No matter what you do, if you keep painting and trying you will ALWAYS improve your skills over time. I fell in love with the hobby again at a pretty high age, thinking that going for a simple painting approach with basecoats, washes and few highlight would be enough. And while it was fun finishing games that were in my shelf way too long, now I found out that I very much enjoy going deep on a mini, glazing for hours and enjoying watching it looking better and better every step I take. This is my kind of meditation at the moment. Awesome video btw. :D
The most important sentence of this video: What good is a hobby if it doesn't make you happy We should all write that sentence in front of our painting space :)
Thank you for showing how you apply each layer instead of just showing a before and after picture. It’s very helpful in showing the process on how it works.
i just stumbled on this video and I really found it helpful and completely agree with him. Focus on what makes you happy try techniques but if you prefer a certain way then stick to what you enjoy. Great video
3 years late on the uptake of finding this video....but you clearly explain and demonstrate the difference between 2 very 'bread and butter' techniques a lot struggle to understand. As someone who wants to improve, particularly as he going to be collecting AoS Tzeench, thank you!
Dude, thanks so much. I finally got the hang of it and it was thanks to this tutorial. The theory was all clear but the way you showed made me finally understand what I did wrong...
Excellent! I love the look of the layering on the metal rim as opposed to glazing there. I've tried both techniques, and I'm with you, use whatever looks good and makes you happy to be painting. Both techniques take more patience and dedication than slapping down a color pallet and calling it done (granted, I opt for that method with army grunts).The reward is being proud of what you've accomplished! (even if you know every flawed brush stroke... no one will notice!)
Thank you so much for your time on these videos. They have really taught me some good lessons. And really inspired me to get an army sorted for 9th. Havnt played since 5th. So again, huge thank you
Thank you so much for this. I now know exactly what I've been doing wrong and why I was struggling with smoothness. I also gave you a Like for the end: "What good is a hobby if it doesn't make you happy?" So true. Made me smile. Again, thank you.
@@honestbenny I would mix my paints to Trovarion's "layering" consistency and then dab the brush onto a paper towel. It's like I had a mental block or fear that if it was too dilute, I'd be wasting paint or something. Anyway, this method would end up accelerating how fast the paint would dry on my brush, because when I'd apply it to my mini, the brush would kinda drag dry-ish paint across the surface, making it rather bumpy. I now know the reason is because of the higher paint-to-water ratio in a "layering" level of dilution: when dabbing the paper towel, the water moves off the brush very quickly, being such small molecules, while the paint is heavier and, therefore, slower to move off the brush. So, I'd (mostly) lose a bunch of water quickly, making my paint-to-water ratio even higher in favor of paint, and the paint would dry out as I applied it on the mini. By using a "glazing" level of dilution, yes, you still lose water faster than paint to the paper towel, but because it's so dilute on the brush, it actually ends up resulting in the perfect ratio of paint-to-water when applied to the mini.
@@EmanuelaleunamE Nice, thanks. I am also going for glazing. Seems also more fool-proof since you can see your layers build slowly and slowly and you don't risk applying too much too fast.
This video has been extremely informative! I'm just starting out with my first batch of marines for now and I couldn't decide whether I should just go with the Citadel painting method or attempt to do layering on all of them as I'm really confused about how people do the latter, but after viewing your video I think I'm in a more informed position to make a choice now! Thank you so much for sharing this :)
brilliant tutorials, its unbelevible to think were you are going with this channel, what the future will hold for you and how manny ppl you will sertanly inspire to get better on theyre hobby. keep up the great work, you’re on the right track! I am sure you will make it to many more subs on this platform 100%!
@@trovarion i am sure it will happen. Its not often you stumble up on such great talent on a path down the yt rabbithole, i somehow just feel it, your doing the right thing. The time will come.
Long story short, glazing is just layering with heavy thinned colors to have smoother transients. Did I get it? Now the real problem is to put lights in the correct palaces... Thanks for this great video!
i'm a beginner painter and started experimenting with glazing the other day. i'm painting some ungors (those small, satyr-looking beastmen) and did a basecoat of bugman's glow, followed by a wash of reikland fleshshade. then i went back with bugman's glow and started glazing. i followed that step with glazing using cadian fleshtone. i was so incredibly happy with the result, and it was by far the best-looking mini i've painted (even though i had only painted the skin and fur so far :P). however, when i started glazing with kislev flesh it started to look a bit chalky, and not as smooth of a transition between the colours. after watching this video i think i didn't wipe enough water from my brush (i also noticed that the paint tried to run into the crevices between the mini's fingers and such) - so big thank you for explaining glazing in such an informative way! glazing used to scare me a bit, but after trying it i wish i had started using the technique sooner! it's an extremely satisfying method which, honestly, isn't hard to do. anyways, i've got plenty of ungors left to paint, and can't wait to try again tomorrow with this newfound knowledge! :D
Thanks for this video, it is very explanatory and helpful and I look forward to trying these techniques. I like to paint Warhammer and find playing the games boring, I prefer painting armies over individual models and have a backlog of 300 + minis over 4 armies. I really like how you went in depth with your explanation and shared your palette along with the brush work, its helpful when you have something to visualize the explanation that is being told to you.
@Bao Thuy "reflective" as in ...brighter? yeah, just use more bright color. Is that not a color change? layering is just less layers with more opaque color than glazing. which is more layers, less opaque.
Could you plase take a look at my "plan" to paint Blood Angles marines (I know it's just plan and the skill with brush is different matter but anyway): 1. Prime with Black Coat, then apply base Mephsiton Red 2. Use Flesh Tearer with water + adrax wash to wash whole model to create details + get to recesses and get more "deep red" (closer to blood color instead of bright Mephsiton). Mostly focusing on parts that are "under light" (more wash) and leave brighter parts brighter like knee caps, shoulders, top of helmet etc (less wash or none at highest parts). 3. Using Glazing technique you showed here I will be slowly building transition on brighter parts (light from top) from Mephiston Red again, through Mephiston + Evil sun scarlet 50:50, through, Evil Sun Scarlet + Mephiston 70:30 (all heavy watered downed as you showed), through pure evil sun scarlet glaze highlights and then little bit bright yellow + scarlet for final smallest light spots at highest/sharpest points. Does it sound like good plan? I know it's "long" time for every unit but I don't mind spending few hours on every model. It's best part for me in this hobby :). Also I want my blood Angels to have golden Eagles, shoulder edges etc. I want to user Retributor Gold as base with Liberator as higlight. But what would recommend for wash to create detail but avoid making Retrubutor too dark? Thanks for all the videos. I watch them few times everyday, preparing for my first paitning.
Great vid! To clarify are you pushing around small dollops of paint in glaze? Or does it flow off smoothly like layering just more thinly? Not sure if my brush is too loaded or I just need to play with the small dots of pigment
Once you wiped the brush on the paper towel you should not get paint that is to runny anymore. And your brush wont be overloaded - if it is, then wipe again. I'm using smooth layers, but obviously as you treat smaller areas surface tension of the water comes into play so, idk really, sometimes it might look like a droplet in the video? With practice you will get the feeling.
How long do you generally wait for a layer of glaze to dry before applying the next one? Do you allow it to fully dry or are you speeding up the process with a dryer maybe? Ps. Awesome video btw!
thanks! rule of thumb: let it be dry to the eye. if you still have a pool showing, don't go over it, because that could ruin the layer. As you get more experienced you might break that rule occasionally, but give it enough time to dry if you are just starting to try it out!
Incredible! Quick question when doing glazed with metallics, do you use water? I found they’re better with lahmiaum medium but wondering your opinion. Thank you sir.
I really want to do this technique for my Sisters of Battle army, but I'm worried that the vehicles will clash with the infantry. All the infantry would be shaded as shown in the video, but I can't think of a way to get a similar smooth effect to look good on the large, flat panels of a vehicle. Is is best to just stop at edge highlighting a vehicle, or is there a good way to get a similar shading technique to look good on a vehicle? Thanks!
Amazing! I know you don't use absolutes but if you had to put a consistency on a glaze how many parts water would you say? I truly struggle with a making too thick or that thin it leaves a chalky film
I honestly can't tell, I don't think in that way anymore (I don't mean it in a transcendental way, but I simply just put paint down and mix in water untill it is right for the job). Instead maybe, try a mixed approach of layering and then glazing on top of that. What I mean is: Create a gradient between the two colors you want to blend (use a good ammount of color) on your pallet, then put down the highlights in solid layers where they should be bright and opaque and then use the midtones in glazes and work on the transitions. that way you can put a few less opaque layers on top of each other, if say the first one was not opaque enough and leaves a chalky finish. I am working on a new 101 video right now that covers consistency too.
3:40 to 3:43 there’s a transition. What was done to blend those colors? Is he brushing with water, with pigment and brushing up or pigment and blending down?
How do u know what colors to highlight and shadow with for different colors? Like for example what would be a highlight color for a Dark Angles marine if u were doing the knee like ur imperial fist in the video? Also excellent work by the way.
you need to try it. don't get stuck in recipies or what GW tells you. You can always have a model to experiment on and even on your other models you can always paint over again, if your color isnt too thick. don't be afraid to try your own recipies. that said there is colors that fit green better than others, but you have many options. adding bonewhite or white will desaturate it, adding yellow will make it warmer, a lighter green is a little more neutral and more intense. Also dont be afraid to shade colors with off-hue colors (e.g. green can be shaded for an intense effect with reddish browns, etc.) try something, then take a step back and analyze it: is it too intense, tone it down a bit. is it too desaturated use less white and another hue of the base color instead. not enough contrast? try shading it with a darker color. I try to get painters to make their own decission, to become more self confident to find their own sollutions - that's when painting is the most enjoyable.
@@zybexgaming2910 completely ignore anything GW recommends when it comes to painting, they just want to sell you a maximum of paint. you can use any acrylic paint pot for everything, no matter what is printed on it.
Awesome video! I'll have to check out your Patreon. Quick question for you: I see that you do your priming in black and then paint over it with your base colors using a brush. Do you ever use your airbrush to apply your basecoat? Just curious!
I have an airbrush, but I almost never use it. I can see the benefits of using it to applying the base color. I can see the use for it when painting a lot of miniatures quickly. There are many uses for an airbrush in showcase techniques as well, however personally I don't feel good painting with an airbrush. Painting for me, just like sculpting is a personal and intimate process and I like to use a brush to feel the Volumes and to work with them. Airbrushing is fine, it is just not interesting to me at all.
trovarion awesome! I've tried both ways and I just keep falling back go priming with my airbrush and then brush painting. For me, it's about control. I like to use my airbrush on larger models such as 1/35 scale tanks but I just can't get into using it for 28mm figures despite having an army to paint. You earned yourself a Patreon!
In the end we are creating works of creativity. A tool should only ever be an extension of your creativity, a means to an end. Whatever helps you get your vision done is a viable tool. In the process only what YOU want to do matters, not what anyone else thinks about it. It's your process, your time investment, your product.
@@trovarion ah OK. I'm just struggling getting to grips with it so looking for the right way to do it. I wasn't suggesting your doing it wrong haha your minis look 100 times better.
if i wanted to say undercoat a cape red. could i undercoat it white first, then apply the wash to create the shadows then glaze over red a few times? cheating way right?
@ about 7:09 you dip your brush into something prior to mixing the yellow glaze again - was that a medium thinner or glazing liquid? Appreciate your videos. I've binged them all.
ah, that is just a bit of dishsoap to break surface tension - in this case so i get the layer of dilluted paint to cover the palette more evenly to make the opaqueness more graspable. i sometimes use it for washes so the coverage is more even. thanks for your kind words too, keeps me motivated :)
Appreciate your reply. Ok. So to let you assess the paint itself for intensity, not to transform the paint in some way. I have restarted in the hobby after about 15 years and grabbed a good chunk of the new citadel paint. I'm struggling with glaze application. I find it dries quickly on the palette and spreads poorly. Could be the rust too though. Waiting for your next twitch so I can sub, donate and appropriately pepper you with more questions.
in this case it's for assessment and for illustration/clarification to the audience ("look, this is how the opaqueness ends up as" - which shows better when surface tension isnt drawing it back together into drops). Like I said, sometimes it is a benefit to have the paint spread equaly on the miniature like this (washes) - but that's not easy to convey in a few words. As far as paint drying on your palette goes you need a wet palette, it makes things so much easier. There is a bunch of videos on YT that give you the idea. As for twitch - I have to take a break from streaming for about 3 months more - however I do update my patreon and if you want to spend those 5 bucks that a subscription on twitch costs you are better off value wise pledging at the 5$ level there as it gives you all the PDFs I put out so far and of course the discord link, there you can ask questions all day ;)
That is using a wet palette atm. I made the glaze going 1 to 1 paint and their lahmia? medium. I will look you up on patreon. You are helping me with my sculpting too. lol
Ah okay, i barely use GW washes and mediums, so i dont know about that, sorry. AS for wet palette you need to a) make sure your baking paper isnt rubbered up on one side and b) that you have a film of water between the sponge and the palette so it moves.
honestly, i dont remember, as it was not the focus on the video, sorry :( it was one of the scalecolor yellows. MY guess is Sol Yellow mixed with a bit of whatever the darker yellow they have is.
hi, I've 2 question, what brand of brush you use. and how do you start painting, for example there is 10 figures fornt of you, you painting one by one or painting together like factory process
I think I used a size 1 brush. Raphael 8404. Quality Brushes have good tips AND a good reservoir, you dont want to torrture yourself with brushes that you have to dip into paint for every stroke, it is way more convinient with a brush like this.
The long hair? Hmmm...none of my brushes has particularly long hair. I use Raphael 8404 sizes 1 and 2 mostly. Using brushes without a reservoir is like running the 100m with a ball chained to your feet :D
You just pick what looks cool and contrasty. It's different for every color. Color theory helps. Sometimes it is "some blue in the shadows always helps". Sometimes it's just trying and experiment to see what works.
look at it from above, everything you see is light, everything you dont see is in the shadow. does not mean you are going to highlight everything that faces up or shade everything facing down, but that's a rule of thumb to recognise the area where you change.
The thing is, i dont want to just talk random crap that doesnt transport any information. Everything that needs to be said is in the video :) i could have cut out the parts to make the video shorter, but then vital visual information would not be in it. Could have played some music too, but a lot of people also dont like that. Thanks for your feedback though!
it's just baking paper - the whole think is a called a wet palette, there is a sponge below and it's a container filled with water. Keeps your paint wet a lot longer.
Layering= ich habe einen umfangreichen "Farbverlauf" und Glazing= ich "schiebe" die Farbe immer weiter dahin wo Sie hin soll und da Sie ja immer etwas trocknet verändert das den "Effekt", entweder ins helle oder eben ins dunkle? Oder hab ich mich da verguckt? Grüße
Probably the best tutorial I've seen on this! So many pros just make swooping statements, never show their pallet, or only show them applying a single layer that their content becomes useless to a new person to the hobby. Well done!
Its like with many other hobbies. People are stressing themselves watching way too many tutorials, trying to find the perfect technique, the perfect colors, the perfect brushes...while in reality nothing is worth more than just painting and making your own experiences. The rough concept of glazing and layering is enough, you will learn SO much by just trying things for yourself and keep painting...having fun. This hobby should be relaxing, not stressful. No matter what you do, if you keep painting and trying you will ALWAYS improve your skills over time.
I fell in love with the hobby again at a pretty high age, thinking that going for a simple painting approach with basecoats, washes and few highlight would be enough. And while it was fun finishing games that were in my shelf way too long, now I found out that I very much enjoy going deep on a mini, glazing for hours and enjoying watching it looking better and better every step I take. This is my kind of meditation at the moment.
Awesome video btw. :D
The most important sentence of this video: What good is a hobby if it doesn't make you happy
We should all write that sentence in front of our painting space :)
Thank you for showing how you apply each layer instead of just showing a before and after picture. It’s very helpful in showing the process on how it works.
This is some master class info, the wise mini painter would do well to watch and apply the technique shown here.
Finally one really useful video on TH-cam about Layering and Glazing. Thank you! Much appreciated.
thanks for the kind words!
i just stumbled on this video and I really found it helpful and completely agree with him. Focus on what makes you happy try techniques but if you prefer a certain way then stick to what you enjoy. Great video
Thanks!
This was an amazing tutorial, I sometimes get hung up on all these newer techniques being thrown around and forget the basics.
3 years late on the uptake of finding this video....but you clearly explain and demonstrate the difference between 2 very 'bread and butter' techniques a lot struggle to understand. As someone who wants to improve, particularly as he going to be collecting AoS Tzeench, thank you!
Dude, thanks so much. I finally got the hang of it and it was thanks to this tutorial. The theory was all clear but the way you showed made me finally understand what I did wrong...
I love your yellow painting techniques
Thank you
How did you base coat the yellow. White?
Excellent! I love the look of the layering on the metal rim as opposed to glazing there. I've tried both techniques, and I'm with you, use whatever looks good and makes you happy to be painting. Both techniques take more patience and dedication than slapping down a color pallet and calling it done (granted, I opt for that method with army grunts).The reward is being proud of what you've accomplished! (even if you know every flawed brush stroke... no one will notice!)
Excellent tutorial. This is the 3rd you have simplified something more. Thank you very much.
Thanks man. I've seen several videos on this topic and this is the first I feel gave me an understanding on how to actually do it on my pieces.
Nice!
Thanks so much! Great video lesson. I've only just started painting WH40k and learnt a lot from this.
This.... this is a god send of a video my man well done, gonna learn me some new skills
glad you enjoyed it :)
Thank you so much for your time on these videos. They have really taught me some good lessons. And really inspired me to get an army sorted for 9th. Havnt played since 5th. So again, huge thank you
nice! thank you!
Like it . I appreciate the in-depth demonstration.
Thank you so much for this. I now know exactly what I've been doing wrong and why I was struggling with smoothness. I also gave you a Like for the end: "What good is a hobby if it doesn't make you happy?" So true. Made me smile. Again, thank you.
Thank you!
Why your were struggling with smoothness? What was your mistake? I am looking to learn from others.
@@honestbenny I would mix my paints to Trovarion's "layering" consistency and then dab the brush onto a paper towel. It's like I had a mental block or fear that if it was too dilute, I'd be wasting paint or something. Anyway, this method would end up accelerating how fast the paint would dry on my brush, because when I'd apply it to my mini, the brush would kinda drag dry-ish paint across the surface, making it rather bumpy. I now know the reason is because of the higher paint-to-water ratio in a "layering" level of dilution: when dabbing the paper towel, the water moves off the brush very quickly, being such small molecules, while the paint is heavier and, therefore, slower to move off the brush. So, I'd (mostly) lose a bunch of water quickly, making my paint-to-water ratio even higher in favor of paint, and the paint would dry out as I applied it on the mini. By using a "glazing" level of dilution, yes, you still lose water faster than paint to the paper towel, but because it's so dilute on the brush, it actually ends up resulting in the perfect ratio of paint-to-water when applied to the mini.
@@EmanuelaleunamE Nice, thanks. I am also going for glazing. Seems also more fool-proof since you can see your layers build slowly and slowly and you don't risk applying too much too fast.
This was exactly what i was looking for. Very well explained. Thank you very much
Trovarion, your painting is incredible and you've really inspired me to improve!
Once again.. very inspiring video! Thanks for sharing your tricks!
This helped me alot! I’ll pick out a model for each technique to really practice them both. Thanks!
GREAT video Tro' as always you explain and illustrate brilliantly. Well done.
This video has been extremely informative! I'm just starting out with my first batch of marines for now and I couldn't decide whether I should just go with the Citadel painting method or attempt to do layering on all of them as I'm really confused about how people do the latter, but after viewing your video I think I'm in a more informed position to make a choice now!
Thank you so much for sharing this :)
great to hear that!
Amazing tutorial, thanks for doing both side by side on the same miniature. This allows direct comparison on achieving 2 different looks.
brilliant tutorials, its unbelevible to think were you are going with this channel, what the future will hold for you and how manny ppl you will sertanly inspire to get better on theyre hobby. keep up the great work, you’re on the right track! I am sure you will make it to many more subs on this platform 100%!
One can only hope!
@@trovarion i am sure it will happen. Its not often you stumble up on such great talent on a path down the yt rabbithole, i somehow just feel it, your doing the right thing. The time will come.
Long story short, glazing is just layering with heavy thinned colors to have smoother transients. Did I get it?
Now the real problem is to put lights in the correct palaces...
Thanks for this great video!
yeah, you can look at it that way :)
Light in correct places? Try zenethial highlighting. It works as an outstanding guide for just that!
When you said smooth transient I imagined a hobo with 20 charisma.
This is exactly the video I needed to see!
Very good tutorial and very timely for me cheers
Great stuff. Just discovered your channel and the quality of tutorials and advice is great, thank you
Nice video! This really brings out the details!
thanks!
Good to see your hands are always painted like mine.,,,👍
Great tutorial. Thank you.
i'm a beginner painter and started experimenting with glazing the other day. i'm painting some ungors (those small, satyr-looking beastmen) and did a basecoat of bugman's glow, followed by a wash of reikland fleshshade. then i went back with bugman's glow and started glazing. i followed that step with glazing using cadian fleshtone. i was so incredibly happy with the result, and it was by far the best-looking mini i've painted (even though i had only painted the skin and fur so far :P).
however, when i started glazing with kislev flesh it started to look a bit chalky, and not as smooth of a transition between the colours. after watching this video i think i didn't wipe enough water from my brush (i also noticed that the paint tried to run into the crevices between the mini's fingers and such) - so big thank you for explaining glazing in such an informative way!
glazing used to scare me a bit, but after trying it i wish i had started using the technique sooner! it's an extremely satisfying method which, honestly, isn't hard to do. anyways, i've got plenty of ungors left to paint, and can't wait to try again tomorrow with this newfound knowledge! :D
Thanks for this video, it is very explanatory and helpful and I look forward to trying these techniques. I like to paint Warhammer and find playing the games boring, I prefer painting armies over individual models and have a backlog of 300 + minis over 4 armies. I really like how you went in depth with your explanation and shared your palette along with the brush work, its helpful when you have something to visualize the explanation that is being told to you.
You are a true master of miniature painting. Do you have video's of larger projects. Please.
How did i miss this video?! Wonderful stuff. I would have appreciated some more explanation of the colour you were using each time. Great vid. Thanks.
Great explanation 😃
thanks!
but why, on the camera at least, does the layering look much better? Is it because of saturation?
very nice video
incredible! very good!
This really helped me understand it but now I have anxiety about applying the technique but I shall push forward
you can do it!
@@trovarion I got about 2600 points of sisters to work on so .... hopefully I'll get the hang of it lol
@Bao Thuy layering is less smooth. I dont know what you mean with "stands out" more.
@Bao Thuy "reflective" as in ...brighter? yeah, just use more bright color. Is that not a color change? layering is just less layers with more opaque color than glazing. which is more layers, less opaque.
@Bao Thuy no, I don't
Could you plase take a look at my "plan" to paint Blood Angles marines (I know it's just plan and the skill with brush is different matter but anyway):
1. Prime with Black Coat, then apply base Mephsiton Red
2. Use Flesh Tearer with water + adrax wash to wash whole model to create details + get to recesses and get more "deep red" (closer to blood color instead of bright Mephsiton). Mostly focusing on parts that are "under light" (more wash) and leave brighter parts brighter like knee caps, shoulders, top of helmet etc (less wash or none at highest parts).
3. Using Glazing technique you showed here I will be slowly building transition on brighter parts (light from top) from Mephiston Red again, through Mephiston + Evil sun scarlet 50:50, through, Evil Sun Scarlet + Mephiston 70:30 (all heavy watered downed as you showed), through pure evil sun scarlet glaze highlights and then little bit bright yellow + scarlet for final smallest light spots at highest/sharpest points.
Does it sound like good plan? I know it's "long" time for every unit but I don't mind spending few hours on every model. It's best part for me in this hobby :).
Also I want my blood Angels to have golden Eagles, shoulder edges etc. I want to user Retributor Gold as base with Liberator as higlight. But what would recommend for wash to create detail but avoid making Retrubutor too dark?
Thanks for all the videos. I watch them few times everyday, preparing for my first paitning.
WHOAAAA DUDE KILLER VIDEO, LOVE IT, 10/10 XOXO 100%!
I love you too xD
Excellent tutorial, only critique is the audio. I thought it was my phone cutting in and out.
Thanks!
The non metal metallic helmet is gorgeous
Great vid! To clarify are you pushing around small dollops of paint in glaze? Or does it flow off smoothly like layering just more thinly?
Not sure if my brush is too loaded or I just need to play with the small dots of pigment
Once you wiped the brush on the paper towel you should not get paint that is to runny anymore. And your brush wont be overloaded - if it is, then wipe again. I'm using smooth layers, but obviously as you treat smaller areas surface tension of the water comes into play so, idk really, sometimes it might look like a droplet in the video? With practice you will get the feeling.
How long do you generally wait for a layer of glaze to dry before applying the next one? Do you allow it to fully dry or are you speeding up the process with a dryer maybe?
Ps. Awesome video btw!
thanks! rule of thumb: let it be dry to the eye. if you still have a pool showing, don't go over it, because that could ruin the layer. As you get more experienced you might break that rule occasionally, but give it enough time to dry if you are just starting to try it out!
Incredible! Quick question when doing glazed with metallics, do you use water? I found they’re better with lahmiaum medium but wondering your opinion. Thank you sir.
I just use water. If you feel better with a medium, use a medium :)
Trovarion Miniatures thank you sir! Keep up the excellent work and videos. Love watching them!
Hi I was wondering what is the proper brush stroke for glazes? Should you try to use the side of the brush versus the tip.
depends a bit on the situation, but in 95% of the time i would say side of the brush, yes!
I really want to do this technique for my Sisters of Battle army, but I'm worried that the vehicles will clash with the infantry. All the infantry would be shaded as shown in the video, but I can't think of a way to get a similar smooth effect to look good on the large, flat panels of a vehicle. Is is best to just stop at edge highlighting a vehicle, or is there a good way to get a similar shading technique to look good on a vehicle? Thanks!
You can use the technique for larger surfaces.
Amazing! I know you don't use absolutes but if you had to put a consistency on a glaze how many parts water would you say? I truly struggle with a making too thick or that thin it leaves a chalky film
I honestly can't tell, I don't think in that way anymore (I don't mean it in a transcendental way, but I simply just put paint down and mix in water untill it is right for the job). Instead maybe, try a mixed approach of layering and then glazing on top of that. What I mean is: Create a gradient between the two colors you want to blend (use a good ammount of color) on your pallet, then put down the highlights in solid layers where they should be bright and opaque and then use the midtones in glazes and work on the transitions. that way you can put a few less opaque layers on top of each other, if say the first one was not opaque enough and leaves a chalky finish. I am working on a new 101 video right now that covers consistency too.
Thankyou for replying! i figured it out finally, its the hardness of the water in my area i believe, going to try distilled water!
3:40 to 3:43 there’s a transition. What was done to blend those colors? Is he brushing with water, with pigment and brushing up or pigment and blending down?
nothing, it just dried during the cut.
How do u know what colors to highlight and shadow with for different colors? Like for example what would be a highlight color for a Dark Angles marine if u were doing the knee like ur imperial fist in the video? Also excellent work by the way.
you need to try it. don't get stuck in recipies or what GW tells you. You can always have a model to experiment on and even on your other models you can always paint over again, if your color isnt too thick. don't be afraid to try your own recipies. that said there is colors that fit green better than others, but you have many options. adding bonewhite or white will desaturate it, adding yellow will make it warmer, a lighter green is a little more neutral and more intense. Also dont be afraid to shade colors with off-hue colors (e.g. green can be shaded for an intense effect with reddish browns, etc.) try something, then take a step back and analyze it: is it too intense, tone it down a bit. is it too desaturated use less white and another hue of the base color instead. not enough contrast? try shading it with a darker color. I try to get painters to make their own decission, to become more self confident to find their own sollutions - that's when painting is the most enjoyable.
curious to know wich type of brush you are using in this demo ,great job by the way ,thumbs up!!
it's a Raphael 8404 - probably an older (as the tip seems to be not in the best shape anymore) size 1
@@trovarion Thx you mate !!
you're welcome
Awesome work! I wanna learn this! Plz upload more on how you paint! :D
Question. What paints do you use and what brushes? :)
Scalecolor (from Scale75) and Raphael 8404 Brushes.
thx! :)
Thanks for the tips! Going to try it, just started painting, also how did you get that super neat black line on shoulder pads?
using a raphael 8404 size 1 with a super fine tip. alternantively you can paint the black first and then clean it up with the yellow.
Trovarion Miniatures thanks! Another noob questions is the black just a normal black base coat or do you use a different type of paint for lines?
@@zybexgaming2910 what do you mean with basecoat? it's not a spray primer if you mean that, it's just regular acrylic black out a paintpot.
Trovarion Miniatures oh sorry GW paint just says base on it, so I am confused. So you just use a normal black paint right not like a ink or shade ?
@@zybexgaming2910 completely ignore anything GW recommends when it comes to painting, they just want to sell you a maximum of paint. you can use any acrylic paint pot for everything, no matter what is printed on it.
Awesome video! I'll have to check out your Patreon.
Quick question for you: I see that you do your priming in black and then paint over it with your base colors using a brush. Do you ever use your airbrush to apply your basecoat? Just curious!
I have an airbrush, but I almost never use it. I can see the benefits of using it to applying the base color. I can see the use for it when painting a lot of miniatures quickly. There are many uses for an airbrush in showcase techniques as well, however personally I don't feel good painting with an airbrush. Painting for me, just like sculpting is a personal and intimate process and I like to use a brush to feel the Volumes and to work with them. Airbrushing is fine, it is just not interesting to me at all.
trovarion awesome! I've tried both ways and I just keep falling back go priming with my airbrush and then brush painting. For me, it's about control. I like to use my airbrush on larger models such as 1/35 scale tanks but I just can't get into using it for 28mm figures despite having an army to paint.
You earned yourself a Patreon!
In the end we are creating works of creativity. A tool should only ever be an extension of your creativity, a means to an end. Whatever helps you get your vision done is a viable tool. In the process only what YOU want to do matters, not what anyone else thinks about it. It's your process, your time investment, your product.
and thanks :)
trovarion Sure thing! Btw, that plague marine is outstanding!
Question about the glazes. Are you just using extremely watered down paints or using a type of medium with the paint? Cheers!
no medium.
@@trovarion thanks for the reply! Love your videos. Been a great help. Keep up the great work man :)
@@WolfwoodX13 much appreciated!
I thought with glazing it was kinda the opposite to layering. As in with glazing you start with a darker colour onto a lighter layer?
It's just about layer dillution, don't get stuck in terms and definitions.
@@trovarion ah OK. I'm just struggling getting to grips with it so looking for the right way to do it. I wasn't suggesting your doing it wrong haha your minis look 100 times better.
np my man
I would like to see a fresh tutorial how to do it on a black or dark gray armor 😬 🙏
I continually struggle with how wet my brush is (how loaded it is) and all my glazes either end up as puddles or no paint at all coming off the brush.
approx how long do you wait for the glaze to dry in between layers?
until it is visually dry
if i wanted to say undercoat a cape red. could i undercoat it white first, then apply the wash to create the shadows then glaze over red a few times? cheating way right?
I don't know if I understand correctly, but sure, why not? it all depends on your skill with the brush and what quality you want to achieve.
@ about 7:09 you dip your brush into something prior to mixing the yellow glaze again - was that a medium thinner or glazing liquid? Appreciate your videos. I've binged them all.
ah, that is just a bit of dishsoap to break surface tension - in this case so i get the layer of dilluted paint to cover the palette more evenly to make the opaqueness more graspable. i sometimes use it for washes so the coverage is more even. thanks for your kind words too, keeps me motivated :)
Appreciate your reply. Ok. So to let you assess the paint itself for intensity, not to transform the paint in some way. I have restarted in the hobby after about 15 years and grabbed a good chunk of the new citadel paint. I'm struggling with glaze application. I find it dries quickly on the palette and spreads poorly. Could be the rust too though. Waiting for your next twitch so I can sub, donate and appropriately pepper you with more questions.
in this case it's for assessment and for illustration/clarification to the audience ("look, this is how the opaqueness ends up as" - which shows better when surface tension isnt drawing it back together into drops). Like I said, sometimes it is a benefit to have the paint spread equaly on the miniature like this (washes) - but that's not easy to convey in a few words. As far as paint drying on your palette goes you need a wet palette, it makes things so much easier. There is a bunch of videos on YT that give you the idea. As for twitch - I have to take a break from streaming for about 3 months more - however I do update my patreon and if you want to spend those 5 bucks that a subscription on twitch costs you are better off value wise pledging at the 5$ level there as it gives you all the PDFs I put out so far and of course the discord link, there you can ask questions all day ;)
That is using a wet palette atm. I made the glaze going 1 to 1 paint and their lahmia? medium. I will look you up on patreon. You are helping me with my sculpting too. lol
Ah okay, i barely use GW washes and mediums, so i dont know about that, sorry. AS for wet palette you need to a) make sure your baking paper isnt rubbered up on one side and b) that you have a film of water between the sponge and the palette so it moves.
Wisdom: "What good is a hobby if it doesn't make you happy?"
how to make the paints for layer ? its just mix with white?
Awesome video, cheers mate good info nice and simple explaination. The bum hole in the pinned comment dont know what hes on about 😁
What basecoat did you use for the yellow?
honestly, i dont remember, as it was not the focus on the video, sorry :( it was one of the scalecolor yellows. MY guess is Sol Yellow mixed with a bit of whatever the darker yellow they have is.
hi, I've 2 question, what brand of brush you use. and how do you start painting, for example there is 10 figures fornt of you, you painting one by one or painting together like factory process
the brushes I use are in the description. I never paint 10 models at once, I dont play, I only paint.
@@trovarion thanks
So a gradient is just making a bigger hue?
I'm not sure what you mean. A gradient is making a transition between two colors or shades of a color.
What brush are you using?
Raphael 8404 size 1
What size brush is that? Looks quite large!
I think I used a size 1 brush. Raphael 8404. Quality Brushes have good tips AND a good reservoir, you dont want to torrture yourself with brushes that you have to dip into paint for every stroke, it is way more convinient with a brush like this.
What brand is the brush, with the long hair?
The long hair? Hmmm...none of my brushes has particularly long hair. I use Raphael 8404 sizes 1 and 2 mostly. Using brushes without a reservoir is like running the 100m with a ball chained to your feet :D
Looks like glazing is easyer, looks better, less prone to fuck up and don't take much more time if batch painting.
How you determine the hue shifting for shadow parts ?
You just pick what looks cool and contrasty. It's different for every color. Color theory helps. Sometimes it is "some blue in the shadows always helps". Sometimes it's just trying and experiment to see what works.
I mean when you move from highlights to a darker tones
look at it from above, everything you see is light, everything you dont see is in the shadow. does not mean you are going to highlight everything that faces up or shade everything facing down, but that's a rule of thumb to recognise the area where you change.
Very late but what mini is it at 0:30?
stormcast gryphcharger
Wwhat brush do you use
Raphael 8404 - Size 1
I think you could talk more, but other wise very informative :D
The thing is, i dont want to just talk random crap that doesnt transport any information. Everything that needs to be said is in the video :) i could have cut out the parts to make the video shorter, but then vital visual information would not be in it. Could have played some music too, but a lot of people also dont like that. Thanks for your feedback though!
What is this wet paper you're mixing your paints on? This is witchcraft! I mix my paints on a paper plate. I've been doing this wrong for years.
it's just baking paper - the whole think is a called a wet palette, there is a sponge below and it's a container filled with water. Keeps your paint wet a lot longer.
Meanwhile me, having 3 different red colors on a sword and be like "well what now"
You painted any lord of the rings
Yeah, but not on youtube
@@trovarion tips on painting strider brown under garment
Such an incredible Artist ... such a bad Micro :D
Layering= ich habe einen umfangreichen "Farbverlauf" und Glazing= ich "schiebe" die Farbe immer weiter dahin wo Sie hin soll und da Sie ja immer etwas trocknet verändert das den "Effekt", entweder ins helle oder eben ins dunkle? Oder hab ich mich da verguckt? Grüße
Beides trägt schichten von farben auf. Bei layering sind die schichten deckender, bei glazing verdünnter.
Hi can I ask please, what is the paper you put your paint on. I’m using a standard plastic paint tray 🎨 but the paint drys up quick .
it's a wet palette, but I use baking paper instead of the palette paper.
Trovarion Miniatures thank you 🙏🏽. silly question probably, but do u put water under the baking paper ?
@@ashar11000 google "wet palette"