Hmm, I think you got the answer by now but M sync is for flashbulbs and X sync is for electronic flash. It's all in the manual. You can easily test the flash sync by just taking the film back off the camera. Then fire the shutter while looking through the back of the camera. You should see the flash through the lens if everything is working.
Praise be to you sir! Here I was trying to watch the shutter through the front of the lens as the flash fired to try figure out if the timing was on or off. Suffice to say your solution is 100% the way to go. Worth noting you have to pop off the entire *rotating back* panel, not just the film back, as only removing the film back inhibits the shutter from firing.
@@gregheadley6450 Thanks! I use that technique for checking flash sync for any of my film cameras. What back and rotating adapter are you using? It should work fine if you leave the rotating adapter on the camera.
@@monodistortion Inspired to say the least! I am using the RB67 Pro-S, which has a pin mechanism built into the rotating back clutch that prevents the shutter from being released if the film back is not attached, just as it does if the dark slide is in, back is partially rotated, etc.
Hello Hayes, so I have a v1 Godox Speedlight and I have it connected using a hot-shoe adapter, plugged into the lens port of my Mamiya rz67 150mm lens. Nothing. Won't trigger the flash. Any thoughts?
Hi, the Mamiya Rb shouldn’t have any black bars in the frame from flash sync issues. There’s no curtain. The lens is a leaf shutter and will sync to all the shutter speeds for flash. You may have to do some testing to see what may be causing the bar. I hope that helps. Take care. 👍🏼
Thank you for a very useful video. I saw the answers about where to get the Polaroid film back BUT....what film did you use in that film back? Who else makes Instant film that fits that holder?
I was using Fuji peal apart film that is discontinued. You can still find it but it's rally expensive. There are a few companies that are making some like New55 and Supersense the.supersense.com/
lue630 hey, during this video I believe there was a gear out of line or something. The counter would not engage. I was winding it a dozen times. It’s all good now. Just one of those things and of course it would happen during filming. 😜
I have the same make to male PC-Sync cable. the port on the lens definitely doesn't go very deep so when I shoot I'm holding it on with my thumb or fingers. ;)
I fiddled with it a few times since this video with the same problem. Sadly there is real fix that I've found. I'm also not using that back anymore due to a light leak that I cant totally fix.
Franklin for sure man. There’s a PC Sync connection on the Light meter that I plug the transmitter into. There’s a switch on the spot meter for strobe/ambient, put it on strobe and your good. Fingers crossed all the pc sync ports have a good connection. Hope that helps.
I got it off of ebay. I've had decent luck there you just have to do a little digging. Want me to send you a link to something I think may work? Thanks for reaching out!
Hey its great! Love the RB67 ! Actually the results are amazing with the polaroid back! What’s the ref of this polaroid back? I never use Polaroid because of the square format! (I hate it) But your Polaroid back is rectangular format right?!
The polaroids are for a 4x5 camera, but the mount for the RB is that 6x7cm size (a smaller 4x5 ratio). The film isn't made anymore, so sad. Hope someday you get to use it.
Joseph Delgadillo Thanks for the comment! Yeah, X all the way. Hope to get some shots with the strobe out doors soon now that the film counter is working. 😉
What’s the ideal sync cable to use? I’ve never used off camera lighting before and recently acquired an rb67 which I’m using in a studio shoot soon. Asked for a continuous lighting set up atm but ideally would love to be able to use strobe. Just kinda confused
What strobe will you be using? One side of the PC cable will be male for the Mamiya RB67 and one side will be specific to the strobe you’re using. Could be a 3.5mm end or a 1/4in plug or an other pc sync male end.
M is old-school single use flash bulbs, X is for "modern" electronic flashes. I think Kenneth Wajda and Peter Elgar talks about that in there channels. Anyway cool video, love Mamiya! Oh and the Minolta F is simmelar to the meter used by NASA during the Shuttle eara (when they used Hasselblad cameras).
T.B.Photo thanks so much!! It was tough to find what the M was for when I first got the camera. Love shooting with it now I know all the quirks. Happy holidays!!
My bigger issue is that I don't own a lightmeter with pc sync. And as I saw in your video there really is a good cause for peel film still. Too bad it's either no longer available or old stock so expensive that it's also not available ;)
M sync flashes before your shutter is at it's biggest aperture (it flashes early) It was for the early design of flash peaking too bright at your camera's fully open shutter. hense a preflash ish. X sync is more for the flash for today's flashes which give you far more control of the timing of your flash :-).......... x sync all the way!!!! :-)
your counter doesnt work, because you mounted the film back on the camera, before you wind it. FIRST you wind the film back until it goes to 1, and then you mount it on the camera body.
Too embarrassed to admit my carelessness but here I am. I've lost the dark slide of my pro-s. My question is, if I need to make the counter work, will advancing the film back separately in a dark room and then attaching it on camera make the counter work? Or is i necessary for the darkslide to be slotted in, in order for the counter to work. Meanwhile I'm still waiting for my analog guy to get his hands on a dark slide.
@@guptageneralstores5243 yes it will work. if you press the security little metallic things of the side (to imitate that the dark slide is in position).
I like your style and the way you try to find out tmamiya hings for us all :-). Keep up the good work..I will follow you because I have not yet discovered how to work with my Mamiya RB 67, so please keep pushing your boundaries in this field, for my sake as well :-) I just bought a sekonic lightmeter and hope to be able to work with that in the studio!
Thanks so much Jade! I definitely plan on doing lots with the Mamiya 67 this year along with some other cameras. Have fun with yours and I hope the videos help in some way if not just for entertainment. 😉
Interweb76 man, you bring up a good point. I don’t see this shot with longer lenses much either. Right now I only have the one. I have a 90mm coming, and I may look into a 180mm or something. ☺️👍🏼
My apologies, I have a few other videos where I get in to flash basics. I hope those help. If you have a specific question, maybe I'll make a video on it . ;)
You apologizing at the end is kinda funny. These fails are typically something that happens to me all the time. I'll subscribe just to support you as a fellow
orbitaldebris thanks for the comment! What kind of work are you interested in doing? I plan on working more with small business in the future and doing tips for that. If it’s Portraits I can also touch on those.
abetterangle Hi, and thanks for commenting. ☺️ yes I saw that you can get the black off of the negative and use them for printing. I haven’t done that yet, but I saved my favorites to try at some point. 👍🏼
Reanetse Moleleki Thanks for letting me know. I was like “what? do I act stoned?” Hahah! It can be intimidating, but it’s rewarding if you’re into it. 🤘🏼
Great job bro . I love the Mamiya RB67 my perspectives is the best medium format out there if you getting the right light, you can print as biggest you want and it will be sharp try the 180mm lens or the 210mm you will love it for ever.😎❤️🇺🇸
Hmm, I think you got the answer by now but M sync is for flashbulbs and X sync is for electronic flash. It's all in the manual.
You can easily test the flash sync by just taking the film back off the camera. Then fire the shutter while looking through the back of the camera. You should see the flash through the lens if everything is working.
Dropped jewels on us. Thank you.
Thank you for this comment, save my film rolls :)
Praise be to you sir! Here I was trying to watch the shutter through the front of the lens as the flash fired to try figure out if the timing was on or off. Suffice to say your solution is 100% the way to go.
Worth noting you have to pop off the entire *rotating back* panel, not just the film back, as only removing the film back inhibits the shutter from firing.
@@gregheadley6450 Thanks! I use that technique for checking flash sync for any of my film cameras.
What back and rotating adapter are you using? It should work fine if you leave the rotating adapter on the camera.
@@monodistortion Inspired to say the least! I am using the RB67 Pro-S, which has a pin mechanism built into the rotating back clutch that prevents the shutter from being released if the film back is not attached, just as it does if the dark slide is in, back is partially rotated, etc.
Hello Hayes, so I have a v1 Godox Speedlight and I have it connected using a hot-shoe adapter, plugged into the lens port of my Mamiya rz67 150mm lens. Nothing. Won't trigger the flash. Any thoughts?
Hey, So sorry I missed this comment. Have you figured it out by now? If not let me know and I'll try to help.
@@HayesPeterson No worries got it handled actually. Thanks!
Question, does the mamiya rb 67 have a flash sync speed? I shot in studio at 320 shutter speed but there was a black bar at the bottom
Hi, the Mamiya Rb shouldn’t have any black bars in the frame from flash sync issues. There’s no curtain. The lens is a leaf shutter and will sync to all the shutter speeds for flash. You may have to do some testing to see what may be causing the bar. I hope that helps. Take care. 👍🏼
Ever find out why there was a black bar? I’m booking a studio and trying to get all the knowledge I can before I go lol
Thank you for a very useful video. I saw the answers about where to get the Polaroid film back BUT....what film did you use in that film back? Who else makes Instant film that fits that holder?
I was using Fuji peal apart film that is discontinued. You can still find it but it's rally expensive. There are a few companies that are making some like New55 and Supersense the.supersense.com/
did you try winding the film multiple times? you have to crank it about 3-5 times before the 1 shows up in the window
lue630 hey, during this video I believe there was a gear out of line or something. The counter would not engage. I was winding it a dozen times. It’s all good now. Just one of those things and of course it would happen during filming. 😜
what sync cable plugs into the lens? I have a male to male but it doesn't go all the way in on the lens. thanks
I have the same make to male PC-Sync cable. the port on the lens definitely doesn't go very deep so when I shoot I'm holding it on with my thumb or fingers. ;)
HayesPeterson thanks man.
@@HayesPeterson which is the ideal sync cable for the mamiya rb67 so I can avoid having to holding it in with my thumb like you say hahaha
Did you ever find out the problem for your film back? I have the exact same problem now!
I fiddled with it a few times since this video with the same problem. Sadly there is real fix that I've found. I'm also not using that back anymore due to a light leak that I cant totally fix.
May I know how do you meter the flash with your spot meter?
Franklin for sure man. There’s a PC Sync connection on the Light meter that I plug the transmitter into. There’s a switch on the spot meter for strobe/ambient, put it on strobe and your good. Fingers crossed all the pc sync ports have a good connection. Hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing. Where are you getting this poloroid film from?
Mustafa Sankofa Hi! I’ve picked up a few from eBay and at times a film lab in town has a few of these for sale. eBay may be your best bet. 👍🏼
Yeah, sucks that they are so hard to find now. The ones found on eBay were so old and expensive that I couldn't risk it not developing properly.
Dope! Do you have a link to the back you were using for the Polaroids?
I just found it on ebay. There's always something available there. ;)
hey mate, can you please point me to where i can get myself a polaroid back for the RB67?
Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I got it off of ebay. I've had decent luck there you just have to do a little digging. Want me to send you a link to something I think may work?
Thanks for reaching out!
Hey its great!
Love the RB67 !
Actually the results are amazing with the polaroid back!
What’s the ref of this polaroid back?
I never use Polaroid because of the square format! (I hate it) But your Polaroid back is rectangular format right?!
The polaroids are for a 4x5 camera, but the mount for the RB is that 6x7cm size (a smaller 4x5 ratio). The film isn't made anymore, so sad. Hope someday you get to use it.
I dunno what the M stands for but that's the setting for flash bulbs. It should sync at all shutter speeds though in X mode
Joseph Delgadillo Thanks for the comment! Yeah, X all the way. Hope to get some shots with the strobe out doors soon now that the film counter is working. 😉
What’s the ideal sync cable to use? I’ve never used off camera lighting before and recently acquired an rb67 which I’m using in a studio shoot soon. Asked for a continuous lighting set up atm but ideally would love to be able to use strobe. Just kinda confused
What strobe will you be using? One side of the PC cable will be male for the Mamiya RB67 and one side will be specific to the strobe you’re using. Could be a 3.5mm end or a 1/4in plug or an other pc sync male end.
@@HayesPeterson they use Bowens gm250 strobes
@@HayesPeterson also what tripod do you use for your rb?
@@lukeforte1328 amzn.to/2LIrDzc This should work
@@lukeforte1328 I use a cheap Ranger Tripod with a pretty good Surui Ball Head. Tripod is like $60 and the Ball head is Around $200
I lost almost 1 roll of film on yashica mat, ignoring the M/X settings. Well now I will remember :)
Your video delivery is very pleasantly done
Thanks so much Joan. ☺️
X = X-Ray
M = MRI
Miley onDisney really? 😉
Lol
I checked your back catalogue of videos Hayes and I love this one. Have a great 2020.
You have a great 2020 as well! 🙏
M is old-school single use flash bulbs, X is for "modern" electronic flashes.
I think Kenneth Wajda and Peter Elgar talks about that in there channels.
Anyway cool video, love Mamiya!
Oh and the Minolta F is simmelar to the meter used by NASA during the Shuttle eara (when they used Hasselblad cameras).
T.B.Photo thanks so much!! It was tough to find what the M was for when I first got the camera. Love shooting with it now I know all the quirks. Happy holidays!!
@@HayesPeterson anytime, it's a briliant camera.I call mine "Godzilla" anyway Mamiya 4 Life🖒
T.B.Photo yes...”Godzilla”!! Perfect!!
My bigger issue is that I don't own a lightmeter with pc sync. And as I saw in your video there really is a good cause for peel film still. Too bad it's either no longer available or old stock so expensive that it's also not available ;)
M sync flashes before your shutter is at it's biggest aperture (it flashes early) It was for the early design of flash peaking too bright at your camera's fully open shutter. hense a preflash ish.
X sync is more for the flash for today's flashes which give you far more control of the timing of your flash :-).......... x sync all the way!!!! :-)
Your counter could be in Multi and won't work until you put it into single. Right beside the film advance on the film back.
your counter doesnt work, because you mounted the film back on the camera, before you wind it. FIRST you wind the film back until it goes to 1, and then you mount it on the camera body.
Too embarrassed to admit my carelessness but here I am. I've lost the dark slide of my pro-s. My question is, if I need to make the counter work, will advancing the film back separately in a dark room and then attaching it on camera make the counter work? Or is i necessary for the darkslide to be slotted in, in order for the counter to work. Meanwhile I'm still waiting for my analog guy to get his hands on a dark slide.
@@guptageneralstores5243 yes it will work. if you press the security little metallic things of the side (to imitate that the dark slide is in position).
I like your style and the way you try to find out tmamiya hings for us all :-). Keep up the good work..I will follow you because I have not yet discovered how to work with my Mamiya RB 67, so please keep pushing your boundaries in this field, for my sake as well :-) I just bought a sekonic lightmeter and hope to be able to work with that in the studio!
Thanks so much Jade! I definitely plan on doing lots with the Mamiya 67 this year along with some other cameras. Have fun with yours and I hope the videos help in some way if not just for entertainment. 😉
Great great videos! Would love to see the RB shot with a few different focal lengths of that's at all possible. Love to see the longer lens results
Interweb76 man, you bring up a good point. I don’t see this shot with longer lenses much either. Right now I only have the one. I have a 90mm coming, and I may look into a 180mm or something. ☺️👍🏼
I thought you were gonna explain how to do flash sync on rb67..
My apologies, I have a few other videos where I get in to flash basics. I hope those help. If you have a specific question, maybe I'll make a video on it . ;)
@@HayesPeterson ehhhh no sweat, nice video anyway ;)
I really enjoyed this! I miss peel a part film so much!
Right! I hope one day someone brings it back. Fingers Crossed.
It's expensive but our best hope for the future is OneInstant film made by Supersense:
supersense.com/oneinstant/
M is for magnesium - Magnesium Flash.
I'd like to shoot 6x7 film portraits, but this seem a little intimidating.
You apologizing at the end is kinda funny. These fails are typically something that happens to me all the time. I'll subscribe just to support you as a fellow
Ha, thanks man. Appreciate it.
Love this my dude!
Random Half Rice thanks man!
Thanks!!
I just stumbled across your channel, beautiful work, love it. Watched most of your videos. Any tips on marketing or putting your name out there.
orbitaldebris thanks for the comment! What kind of work are you interested in doing? I plan on working more with small business in the future and doing tips for that. If it’s Portraits I can also touch on those.
@@HayesPeterson predominantly interested in doing portraits.
Man I miss that polaroid film.
Me too. Wish it would make a comeback
Haha. I like your talk and style. Keep doing it.
Seckin Uysal Hey, thanks man! I’ll do my best. 🤘🏼
Shooting M (mirror-up mode)
Ron Petersen Thanks Ron! That makes sense. 👍🏼
great video, the audio is a little rough.
stahv yeah we had some issues on this one for sure. 😜
Thanks for sharing your mistakes
Ha, always. 👍🏼
👍
“Men-Nohl-Tuh”
Do you realise that the negative you have in your other hand you can use for future prints? :-)
abetterangle Hi, and thanks for commenting. ☺️ yes I saw that you can get the black off of the negative and use them for printing. I haven’t done that yet, but I saved my favorites to try at some point. 👍🏼
@@HayesPeterson Cool. Looking forward to seeing that vid :-)
How high is this guy?
Reanetse Moleleki ????
@@HayesPeterson it was a joke. You reminded me of a stoner friend of mine.
Reanetse Moleleki Thanks for letting me know. I was like “what? do I act stoned?” Hahah!
It can be intimidating, but it’s rewarding if you’re into it. 🤘🏼
DOH!!
HAHAHAHA =') Funny vidideo man.
M is for Mirror Lockup
So, you switch it to M for flash sync when you have the mirror locked up? That makes a lot of sense. Thanks so much for commenting!!
I don't think that is correct. Isn't there a completely different knob on the lens that controls Mirror lockup?
not when it comes to the flash. the m on the pc sync side is for when you're using one time use flash bulbs. olds school flash bulbs.
No, not mirror lock ip
*too stoned*
Our kidding me your a pro ????? And you don't that
I shoot digital for my pro work, this journey is with film. 😉
Great job bro . I love the Mamiya RB67 my perspectives is the best medium format out there if you getting the right light, you can print as biggest you want and it will be sharp try the 180mm lens or the 210mm you will love it for ever.😎❤️🇺🇸
Luis Salazar I’m hoping to get one of those focal lengths sometime this year. I’m sure you’ll be seeing it here when I do. ☺️