Old boy said to me to always tilt the board slightly away from the window (bubble on the line) in order for condensation to run away from the window and not to pool there creating rot. Which means he was taught by people who built houses in the 1930s. It was probably an issue back then but not now I think.
Great job as always i do the same thing routing the horns. We usually get the plasterer to dab a bit of plasterboard on level when he's doing the boarding then its just a case of us dropping a sill on a pre levelled clean piece of plaster board. Saves so much time when levelling up especially when the brickwork is all over the place which is 90 percent of the time in the old victorian town houses we end up in. Although this method does require a brilliant plasterer thats willing to work with other people. They're generally not interested if on a price, which is understanderble.
I use the same method although I pre drill the wedges to prevent splitting not that it matters as it’s downward pressure. Finding a window that is actually level isn’t always easy. Nice work as always.
My old boss 40 years ago was a stickler for priming the underside & edges of the sill board to stop any moisture warping sill board. What do you think, do you find plugs & screws are a better fixing method than using 6mm Countersunk Concrete Screws like Timco, which I was drummed into using a few years ago for fixing window sill,door linings,etc.
Thanks for the great video. Is it ok to mount the board directly onto the block work if it is high enough? Or do the wedges provide an air gap or something?
James nice work pal Is that brick reveal as in outside skin, if so should that not have a bit of damp proof up the side, winter that brick will suck moisture, hopefully don't touch the wood sill Like the way you put in wood plugs nice finish mate
Hi John great video as always just wanted to know how comes you didn’t fill the need to leave more of a expansion gap to the edge of the reveal of the window as a chippy myself I tend to always leave a slight gap for expansion specially if the reveals will be boarded ?
Great content as always and really helpful, John is a great all round master. Is that insulated plasterboard on the walls? That would of been a great video to watch, is it dot and dab or fixed to battens? Also what are the circular fixings all over?
They are insulated boards. We fix them to battens as it's an easier way of ensuring a flat finish (they can be a pain to dab sometimes). The washers help to ensure the screws don't pop through the board and help to give a great mechanical fixing. I hope this helps. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Nice man. I'm about to do a similar job and was wondering how to fill the holes made by the fixings, just bought a plug cutter! Did your board come unfinished? Did you oil it/seal it in any way?
Lots of people use the foam but it’s becoming less popular as the health risks involved ,now it’s been proven about the gas it lets off is bad . Just look on the back of can danger to the unborn child attacks organs etc etc
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Old boy said to me to always tilt the board slightly away from the window (bubble on the line) in order for condensation to run away from the window and not to pool there creating rot. Which means he was taught by people who built houses in the 1930s. It was probably an issue back then but not now I think.
Top job John great to see the finer details being implemented 👌👍
Great job as always i do the same thing routing the horns. We usually get the plasterer to dab a bit of plasterboard on level when he's doing the boarding then its just a case of us dropping a sill on a pre levelled clean piece of plaster board. Saves so much time when levelling up especially when the brickwork is all over the place which is 90 percent of the time in the old victorian town houses we end up in. Although this method does require a brilliant plasterer thats willing to work with other people. They're generally not interested if on a price, which is understanderble.
Fitted so many window boards like the over the years. I tend to put them on with expanding foam adhesive now. Top work as always.
Do prefer the foam,much quicker.
Just put something heavy on top mine have lifted before 👍🏻
@@toddstockton9663 something heavy or a couple of 2x1 props down from the head
@@toddstockton9663 I've not done it that way before but I can see how that would be a problem.
Thanks for watching Stephen! 👍
I use the same method although I pre drill the wedges to prevent splitting not that it matters as it’s downward pressure. Finding a window that is actually level isn’t always easy. Nice work as always.
My old boss 40 years ago was a stickler for priming the underside & edges of the sill board to stop any moisture warping sill board.
What do you think, do you find plugs & screws are a better fixing method than using 6mm Countersunk Concrete Screws like Timco, which I was drummed into using a few years ago for fixing window sill,door linings,etc.
Very neatly done
Thanks for watching George! 🙌
Always watch your videos, top teaching skills as always. God bless
Thanks Marly! 👍
All about the foam for window boards. No filler pop after a couple of years when the board contracts. Just seen you’ve plugged it, fair.
Thanks you make it look straightforward.
.I love your work and love the small videos you guys make showing people how to do small construction tasks
Thanks for watching Ammar! 👍
Beautiful, thank you. 👍👍👍
Thank you Chris! 👍
Wound love to see a video showing how to install insulated plaster board
Watch this space 🙂
Great video, thanks !!!
Glad you liked it Michael! 👍
Thanks for the great video. Is it ok to mount the board directly onto the block work if it is high enough? Or do the wedges provide an air gap or something?
James nice work pal
Is that brick reveal as in outside skin, if so should that not have a bit of damp proof up the side, winter that brick will suck moisture, hopefully don't touch the wood sill
Like the way you put in wood plugs nice finish mate
I fix eml to the underside and bed with dot & dab adhesive, never moves and no fixings through the cill
could you use plasterboard bonding instead of screws ?
errmm....No. Needs mechanical fixing ideally Antony.
I would normally prime sill boards before final fix so that no wet finish is touching bare wood.
With the wooden nogins user board how would u fill and plaster over that ?
at the end, how do you shorten the tabs? Thank you
Hi John great video as always just wanted to know how comes you didn’t fill the need to leave more of a expansion gap to the edge of the reveal of the window as a chippy myself I tend to always leave a slight gap for expansion specially if the reveals will be boarded ?
Where do you buy the plug cutter and countersink set from?
Hi Adam,
I picked them up from screwfix, although any decent tool outlet should stock them.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
You cut your horns at 50mm but didn't allow for the reveal assuming its dot and dab, So they increase in size to 75mm. Good job though
Do You have to put the front noses on? Im just not a huge fan of the look and did my external UPVC flush without noses. Do they serve a purpose?
Craftsmanship.
Thanks Maria! Have an awesome week! 👍
Great content as always and really helpful, John is a great all round master. Is that insulated plasterboard on the walls? That would of been a great video to watch, is it dot and dab or fixed to battens? Also what are the circular fixings all over?
Those circular fixings are what I call mushrooms or slab fixings. They are used to fix plaster board onto brick and block work.
They are insulated boards. We fix them to battens as it's an easier way of ensuring a flat finish (they can be a pain to dab sometimes).
The washers help to ensure the screws don't pop through the board and help to give a great mechanical fixing.
I hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
The problem for me is my reveals are angled and the walls cut back inwards !
What's the reason for cutting the rebate? The part that fits against the window frame.
Yeah normally the rebate in the cill is for timber frames
why are on the floor using power equipment ?
Nice man. I'm about to do a similar job and was wondering how to fill the holes made by the fixings, just bought a plug cutter!
Did your board come unfinished? Did you oil it/seal it in any way?
Hi Valiant unfinished all the best Tony 👍
Lots of people use the foam but it’s becoming less popular as the health risks involved ,now it’s been proven about the gas it lets off is bad . Just look on the back of can danger to the unborn child attacks organs etc etc
Slow down!!!!!