The frame had “ let in” bracing - the OSB is completely adequate … the foam helps , thicker - ever better . Only improvement gap the sheets at bottom or seal the bottom first somehow. Nice improvement guys! Thx for posting !
@@snarecat3441 of course the OSB is adequate, the point is, so was the T 1-11. So there was a lot of time, effort, and expense that did not have to happen. And yes, I agree that the phone also added to the insulation. It just could have been put over the t1-11 As well.
@@dalehunter9624t1 11 is 5/8,where the osb is 1/2 . I would have left the t1 11 on. I build houses for 30 years. Where I live the inspector makes you put plywood on the corners and then every so many feet ,for strength, cause plywood is stronger than osb.
I built my house 35 years ago. I sheeted exterior with 2 inches of extruded styrofoam. I concentrated heavily on interior vapour barrier. I've done many Reno's on my house and have never found mould in my walls even though the exterior wasn't "breathable'
The reason you did not find mold in your unbreathable exterior is that the 2 inch foam did not allow the dew point to drop to a level that allowed condensation to form inside the wall. It is not a mystery. It is not due to you having concentrated on the interior vapor barrier.
@@tommak6516 You are right about the dew point and wrong about the vapour barrier. What does a dew point matter when blocked by vapour barrier. Building my own house when I was 24 and understanding thoroughly the R2000 principals was just the beginning of my 40 year career in construction. Interior vapour barrier and air flow control is one of the most important principles in construction especially in the cold climate of Ontario.
Great Job! You showed a lot of the small details that go into something like that. Like the White PVC flashing and the stuff in the can, and the mesh you embedded into it. The nails and fender washer things that used to secure the foam. Very helpful.
I mean I would have just insulated the 2x4 walls and saved myself 1000s of dollars. Also gaps in plywood is a good idea and I've never seen anyone use a router to cut out window openings before. Put the ply on horizontal to add lateral strength to your wall also and putting the foam directly on your drip edge is a bad idea incase there was any moisture behind your wall finish.
But what a beautiful job... everything perfectly coordinated and with the necessary elements to make that house a blessed and comfortable home!! How angry I am!! Lima Capital greets you
@@awall8725 he’s going to insulate the wall. He’s adding a thermal break by doing this. That looks like R10 foam sheathing, and then R13 in the walls. This is actually code in a lot of places.
Als Deutscher ist es erschreckend zu sehen wie Amerikanische Häuser gebaut sind. Bei uns werden Gartenhäuschen so gebaut, in denen nur Geräte aufbewahrt werden. Für Häuser gibt es einen Energieausweis. Der zeigt von A+ bis H in 9 Stufen die Qualität der Dämmung. Jede Stufe gibt an wieviel Energie man pro m^2 Wohnfläche zum Heizen braucht. ( Bei genormter Raumtemperatur) Jeder kann dann überlegen wie teuer die Heizrechnung wird , für seine persönliche bevorzugte Raumtemperatur. A+ Qualität braucht 0 - 25 kwh pro m^2 Das Haus ist extrem gut gedämmt. Angefangen bei der Bodenplatte , die Wände , das Dach und mit Fenstern die 4 Glasscheiben haben.( 4 Fach Verglasung) Es wird aleine durch die Abwärme von Geräten, Lampen und Körperwärme geheizt. Die schlechteste Qualität ist H . Man braucht mehr als 250 kwh pro m^2. Bei einer 100m^2 Wohnung sind dann mindestens 25000 kwh Energie nötig, für einen normalen Winter. 1 kwh Gas kostet zur zeit ca 9 Cent . Also 2250 € Kosten im Jahr, oder 187€ im Monat. Das Haus in diesem Video hätte am Anfang gar keinen Energieausweis bekommen. Jetzt bekommt es H oder G . Das gute daran ist: Jedes gedämmte Haus ist besseres Haus 🙂 Lg
My question exactly, why not just go over it with the foam and save the time and expense of replacing that existing T1-11. If you are worried about the ridges use minimal expansion foam or caulk it.
Hopefully you put hardie siding on it after. Rockwool insulation inside too! Air seal all cracks and inside barrier and taped all joints 😊you don’t want to breathe that oil product in your home! Add whole house air ventilation system!
Great video, my great granddaughter rolled over laughing to the fast forward, hammering & sound😭😂 you made her laugh the hardest she's ever laughed in her life🥲
Why didn't they insert thermal insulation between the load-bearing elements of the walls and could they keep the original facade. Or simply apply thermal insulation to the original facade of the house. But I don't understand these American houses, I'm a builder from Europe. Greetings from Slovakia ;).
The facade was a cheap product that was being replaced anyway. The sheathing of foam creates a thermal break for the load bearing studs. Additional insulation would have to be installed like you suggested seperately.
@@EdMo2 There is a lot of movement in the building trades towards creating a thermal break to disconnect the interior side of the stud wall from the exterior. Some better than others obviously. There are a lot of recent studies showing that heat loss from studs and headers are nearly equivalent to the stud bays in some cases.
There is a product called thermax which in my book is the best.I insulated my basement with the 1:42 stuff I had to wear a heavy coat to spend any time downstairs. Now it's heated with the heat from my furnace exhaust pipe no more freezing in the Winter.
My older home does not have sufficient insulation. They wanted $18000 to do the attic and the walls on an 11sf house. The difference between keep my house at a constant 68 and warming it up to 73 during 4pm to bedtime around 9pm and then kicking it back down to 68, was about an extra 140per month, for five months or about an extra $700 total. It would take my about 23 years to the cost difference. Sometimes it’s just not worth fixing financially.
You must have money and time to burn ,cover the t1-11 with your foam ,they make window tape flashing in a six inch roll ,there is no wall interior insulation on and on . Real ho jo stuff here it's a house not a piano !
T-1-11 is really amazing stuff.. My house built in 72 still has it in place. It's in much better shape than most houses I look at that are 15 yes old or less.
I did this too on my house a decade ago. I used 3/4 inch Johnsmansville or whatever it's called. It was a heavy duty, foam board, foil face front and back. It helped a lot I'm sure, compared to what was there before.. which was nothing. I skipped out on the tyvek.. wish I would've done that part as well. I was surprised you did not do that here
The halo product does the same thing as tyvek, only better. You don't need both. The important thing is that Halo Exterra breathes, because no matter how well you weather seal a house, moisture will get into the walls, and it needs a way back out.
@@kat7471it’s not better than TYVEC but I’m glad you think that. Since the majority of buildings are wrapped with tyvec and not foamboard, pretty sure TYVEC does what it’s suppose to. It lets a building breathe. But what do I know I’m only a career carpenter who frames homes everyday.
@@itscalledfreedomofspeech5019 The majority of Homes are wrapped in Tyvek, because it meets minimum code and has been the standard for decades. Modern technologies have far surpassed housewrap, but are slow to catch on because carpenters and builders don't like change. Halo Exterra combines the breathability of housewrap with the insulation value of foamboard, thereby making it superior to Tyvek. But what do I know, I'm only a career General Contractor who builds energy-efficient and weather-tight homes from the ground up, AND keeps up on modern technologies.
Check code in your area. In my climate zone you need 2” of foam on the outside wall to prevent condensation on the inner side of the foam. Condensation will rot the wall.
@ southern Ontario. I was looking into upgrading the insulation on my house and swapping the siding. Whilst searching through code and recommended thickness I had found some research on the subject. They had climate zone bands across North America with the necessary R values. I’m on the border between 1.5” and 2” foam. So depending on application style (which I was looking to place foam directly on the outside of the OSB sheathing) you needed a minimum thickness to prevent condensation from developing behind the insulation on the OSB and rotting the OSB. Once the foam is applied on the OSB it no longer can dry to the outside as foam is non vapour permeable. Through the studies conducted (not sure it was CMHC) but the government/university studies constantly conducted, this was the recommendation. This recommendation will be similar with all the Northern States. Codes are different per area and “minimum” codes are a bit of a joke so always dig a bit deeper.
Nice job in giving the house a whole new skin with continuous insulation. But, why didn't you put a weather barrier over the exterior sheathing? Also, peel and stick flashing would've been better used over the metal flashing.
So you do a complete replacement and then only 2 inches? Would have at least doubled that. Currently rebuilding my 250m2 home with 9 inch insulation an it's comfortable heated with a 5kw heat pump.
I am a DIY person who learns from reading, watching and doing. I appreciate this video because you taught me something. I am just starting as a DIY person. You used a router for the windows and the plywood. I know it’s simple but it helped. What router bit did you use? Thank you.
Rockwool might have been a better easier solution if this is like other foam board you cant put it out once it catches fire, its a consideration and if it was a shipping container with foam on the inside its an incinerator
I love that stuff most new homes are adding this now. Makes it like a frkn icebox. Warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. Love your videos. Now if I could get my wife to help me in mine😅
Auch mit der Dämmung drauf sagen wir in Deutschland zu so einem Haus Bretterschuppen oder Ferienhütte für den Sommer. Stein auf Stein gebaut ist bei uns ein Wohnhaus für das ganze Jahr.
We build garden sheds better than that over here in EU land. The standard for wall and roof insulation is 14cm, and that's for solid brick walls. Double or triple glazing, too. My old house has stone walls which are 60cm thick, and a well insulated roof. Solar panels, too.
This could help people "recycle" and renovate older homes and manufactured homes that would otherwise deteriorate and become teardowns. In a market that has priced many out of home ownership, this could really make a difference.
You put that half moon window in without. He king for level when you traced it? Definitely a great way to make this inside warmer with this type of protection on the outside.
There is a lot of ways to achieve your goal so what is your r-value now and what I don't understand is why would you take off texture t11 to replace it with plywood
Its nice to see that american proffeissionals apreciate more Hilti an european brand moren than american line festools or milwaukee. Europe is Europe in quality
Такой красивый дом испортили, а можно было между стоек деревянных положить утеплитель и закрыть его пароизоляцией. Эффект был бы тотже, а если 15 см утеплителя, то на много лучше
@@thl7587Everyone is a critic. It all depends on where you live, what building supplies are available, and what specific objective you are trying to achieve. The cost of labor is a huge consideration. In America, labor is more expensive than materials. Many times tearing out the old to save man-hours is the best option.
Agreed there should have been plywood under that outdoor sheeting or hardie board but if they were on a budget, and seeing the interior walls out, spray expansion foam would have been the cheaper better way. I would have done plywood not OSB, then a water barrier and exterior, then shoot foam on the inside. The exterior sheeting has something between it and the actual structure and when that something starts to deteriorate, there will be issues. Hardie board, moisture barrier, plywood and foam inside, will last longer, and I would imagine be far more fire resistant, not to mention cheaper.
В русском понимании это не дом, это сарай. У нас новые дома строят в два с половиной кирпича толщиной стены. Строят и каркасные, но гораздо толще с утеплителем в несколько слоёв. Ещё дома из бруса 200/200 с отделкой: внутренней и наружной. А также дома из кругляка - классика русского домостроения.
Я из России у нас сараи не такии, и что ты хочешь сказать бетонный сарай из панелек которыми вся Россия застроенна лучше😂😂😂😂, я делаю ремонты, в России жилье в основном для скотины,. Кстати коровники как раз и строили из бетонных панелей😅
Could have easily installed fiberglass batts or spray foam insulation between the wall studs and saved the exterior siding lowering the overall cost of this project.
Good video, got right to the point, not alot of talking, none of that like and subscribe jargon. Looks like a good product, dont pay no mind to the folks who complained about tossing the wood sheeting, i would have too
Looked like your board insulation went right to edge of windows (w/o furring strips). Can you share how you attached your windows via your nailing fins? Perhaps relied more on nails through the casings into the framing? Thanks!
Nothing new. We were doing this in the 1970’s. The manufacturer demanded we put a corrugated air vent strip at the bottom. The best use of foam sheets was on the interior. Solved the stud air leakage and moisture barrier as long as you taped everything off. Gave a great surface for sheetrock especially when studs were 24” oc.
@@boatdesigner12 doing it the way he did it is now code in a lot of places. It provides a thermal break. We know a lot more about energy efficiency now than we did 50 years ago.
It would have made far more sense to have fitted the insulation to the frame & fitted the OSB on the outside. The insulation between the studs would have then filled the voids up to the sheet insulation making a decent layer of insulation. My timber frame house has a warm roof design. The rafters are 9” & a further 2” of high density polyurethane was laid over them in 8x4 sheets. A breathable membrane was applied underneath & all the voids were pumped full of cellulose insulation, making 11” & a very efficient solution
You're right... I can't believe its as easy as rebuilding the house!
That's so funny
The T-111 was actually sturdier sheathing than the osb. Could have saved a lot of time and money by leaving that
Not if it was comprised
@@EGGINFOOLSthen replace any of it with that was compromised, and don't waste the rest. Like he said t1-11 is actually plywood, therefore stronger.
The frame had “ let in” bracing - the OSB is completely adequate … the foam helps , thicker - ever better . Only improvement gap the sheets at bottom or seal the bottom first somehow.
Nice improvement guys!
Thx for posting !
@@snarecat3441 of course the OSB is adequate, the point is, so was the T 1-11. So there was a lot of time, effort, and expense that did not have to happen.
And yes, I agree that the phone also added to the insulation. It just could have been put over the t1-11 As well.
@@dalehunter9624t1 11 is 5/8,where the osb is 1/2 . I would have left the t1 11 on. I build houses for 30 years. Where I live the inspector makes you put plywood on the corners and then every so many feet ,for strength, cause plywood is stronger than osb.
I built my house 35 years ago. I sheeted exterior with 2 inches of extruded styrofoam. I concentrated heavily on interior vapour barrier. I've done many Reno's on my house and have never found mould in my walls even though the exterior wasn't "breathable'
Which area is it?
The reason you did not find mold in your unbreathable exterior is that the 2 inch foam did not allow the dew point to drop to a level that allowed condensation to form inside the wall. It is not a mystery. It is not due to you having concentrated on the interior vapor barrier.
@@tommak6516 You are right about the dew point and wrong about the vapour barrier. What does a dew point matter when blocked by vapour barrier. Building my own house when I was 24 and understanding thoroughly the R2000 principals was just the beginning of my 40 year career in construction. Interior vapour barrier and air flow control is one of the most important principles in construction especially in the cold climate of Ontario.
Great Job! You showed a lot of the small details that go into something like that. Like the White PVC flashing and the stuff in the can, and the mesh you embedded into it. The nails and fender washer things that used to secure the foam. Very helpful.
I mean I would have just insulated the 2x4 walls and saved myself 1000s of dollars. Also gaps in plywood is a good idea and I've never seen anyone use a router to cut out window openings before. Put the ply on horizontal to add lateral strength to your wall also and putting the foam directly on your drip edge is a bad idea incase there was any moisture behind your wall finish.
But what a beautiful job... everything perfectly coordinated and with the necessary elements to make that house a blessed and comfortable home!! How angry I am!! Lima Capital greets you
Wouldnt it have been easier and cheaper just to insulate the exiating walls?
Yes, yes I would. What a colossal waste of time money, and materials
Exactly !
@@awall8725 he’s going to insulate the wall. He’s adding a thermal break by doing this. That looks like R10 foam sheathing, and then R13 in the walls. This is actually code in a lot of places.
This wasn’t instead of…
Spray foam the interior wall and be done, house wrap and vinyl side over the crummy t 111.
Solid upgrade! Its amazing the difference insulation can make, especially the kind with the reflective foil.🎉
Dmann: especially when you have wooden houses ‼️
Als Deutscher ist es erschreckend zu sehen wie Amerikanische Häuser gebaut sind.
Bei uns werden Gartenhäuschen so gebaut, in denen nur Geräte aufbewahrt werden.
Für Häuser gibt es einen Energieausweis. Der zeigt von A+ bis H in 9 Stufen die Qualität der Dämmung.
Jede Stufe gibt an wieviel Energie man pro m^2 Wohnfläche zum Heizen braucht. ( Bei genormter Raumtemperatur)
Jeder kann dann überlegen wie teuer die Heizrechnung wird , für seine persönliche bevorzugte Raumtemperatur.
A+ Qualität braucht 0 - 25 kwh pro m^2
Das Haus ist extrem gut gedämmt.
Angefangen bei der Bodenplatte , die Wände , das Dach und mit Fenstern die 4 Glasscheiben haben.( 4 Fach Verglasung)
Es wird aleine durch die Abwärme von Geräten, Lampen und Körperwärme geheizt.
Die schlechteste Qualität ist H .
Man braucht mehr als 250 kwh pro m^2.
Bei einer 100m^2 Wohnung sind dann mindestens 25000 kwh Energie nötig, für einen normalen Winter.
1 kwh Gas kostet zur zeit ca 9 Cent .
Also 2250 € Kosten im Jahr, oder 187€ im Monat.
Das Haus in diesem Video hätte am Anfang gar keinen Energieausweis bekommen.
Jetzt bekommt es H oder G .
Das gute daran ist: Jedes gedämmte Haus ist besseres Haus 🙂
Lg
En France aussi c'est pareil.
Ils ont des maisons en carton !!
Nous c'est des abris de jardin pour les outils qu'on fait comme ça.......
You do realize that stick frame homes can have, and do have a++ certification? It all depends on how they are built.
@@MIRSTROY
Dann schau dir mal an wie Holzhäuser in Deutschland gebaut sind und vergleiche das mit dem Haus im Video 🙃
LG
Tissue and spit, boogers and bubble gum , building codes here suck
@@jefferysill5539 I have a feeling you know very little about building code if you still think OSB sucks.
Why tear off the fir t-1-11 siding, to replace it with cheap OSB? Are you going to insulate the stud cavities with R13 plus the foam on the outside?
We have a name for OSB where I come from , we call it a sponge
My question exactly, why not just go over it with the foam and save the time and expense of replacing that existing T1-11. If you are worried about the ridges use minimal expansion foam or caulk it.
OSB ain't cheap anymore.
Still cheaper or the cheapest
I love it when the wife comes out to help!
Congrats you just covered your house in a product that will actually make it burn to the ground 100 times faster if there is ever a fire,good work
The best way to guarantee the structure you built will not burn down is to not build it. C'mon now!
@@blackmanops3749 with todays fireproofing paints and materials etc your comment couldnt sound more stupid🤣
Yea, just live in a Dog Kennel right!!
@@celestialkingdomministrieschain link fence on gravel pad. No roof system. Safest way to know you won’t burn up
Nahh that product cant burn
Hopefully you put hardie siding on it after. Rockwool insulation inside too! Air seal all cracks and inside barrier and taped all joints 😊you don’t want to breathe that oil product in your home! Add whole house air ventilation system!
New windows and no insulation in walls. We used this in our rebuild. Topped it with concrete board. Insulation in walls. Very warm and quiet!
Great video, my great granddaughter rolled over laughing to the fast forward, hammering & sound😭😂 you made her laugh the hardest she's ever laughed in her life🥲
Why didn't they insert thermal insulation between the load-bearing elements of the walls and could they keep the original facade. Or simply apply thermal insulation to the original facade of the house. But I don't understand these American houses, I'm a builder from Europe. Greetings from Slovakia ;).
The wood creates thermal breaks so doing continuous sheets on the outside has much higher thermal values overall significantly improving the heat loss
The facade was a cheap product that was being replaced anyway.
The sheathing of foam creates a thermal break for the load bearing studs.
Additional insulation would have to be installed like you suggested seperately.
All they would’ve had to do was spray foam the inside
@@EdMo2 There is a lot of movement in the building trades towards creating a thermal break to disconnect the interior side of the stud wall from the exterior.
Some better than others obviously.
There are a lot of recent studies showing that heat loss from studs and headers are nearly equivalent to the stud bays in some cases.
American contractors overengineer everything (times a thousand) so they can squeeze the maximum amount of money from ignorant customers.
i owned a house that was wrapped in styrofoam. it was great. kept the summer heat out and the winter cold out.
There is a product called thermax which in my book is the best.I insulated my basement with the 1:42 stuff I had to wear a heavy coat to spend any time downstairs. Now it's heated with the heat from my furnace exhaust pipe no more freezing in the Winter.
Awesome 👍 I got to buy some for my home construction and new garage out in my back yard.🙂
So... your solution is to completely rebuild the house? Your right. I didn't expect that at all.
My older home does not have sufficient insulation. They wanted $18000 to do the attic and the walls on an 11sf house. The difference between keep my house at a constant 68 and warming it up to 73 during 4pm to bedtime around 9pm and then kicking it back down to 68, was about an extra 140per month, for five months or about an extra $700 total. It would take my about 23 years to the cost difference. Sometimes it’s just not worth fixing financially.
Très beau travail de rénovation et d'isolation 👏👌👏👌 bisous de 🇧🇪
Ok but why did you tear off the T-1-11 to replace it with osb 😂
Other than getting to the windows idk
@@patricklangel9928 could have much more easily just cut the nailing fin off smh
Probably he's gonna put it back over the isolation material
You must have money and time to burn ,cover the t1-11 with your foam ,they make window tape flashing in a six inch roll ,there is no wall interior insulation on and on . Real ho jo stuff here it's a house not a piano !
T-1-11 is really amazing stuff.. My house built in 72 still has it in place. It's in much better shape than most houses I look at that are 15 yes old or less.
All these cool building materials, sure, why not.
Excelente muy práctico con el frío, hermoso trabajo,muy bien , saludos desde Chile ❤
I did this too on my house a decade ago. I used 3/4 inch Johnsmansville or whatever it's called. It was a heavy duty, foam board, foil face front and back. It helped a lot I'm sure, compared to what was there before.. which was nothing. I skipped out on the tyvek.. wish I would've done that part as well. I was surprised you did not do that here
The halo product does the same thing as tyvek, only better. You don't need both. The important thing is that Halo Exterra breathes, because no matter how well you weather seal a house, moisture will get into the walls, and it needs a way back out.
@@kat7471it’s not better than TYVEC but I’m glad you think that. Since the majority of buildings are wrapped with tyvec and not foamboard, pretty sure TYVEC does what it’s suppose to. It lets a building breathe. But what do I know I’m only a career carpenter who frames homes everyday.
In Europe are speaking of insulation from 20 cm up ..
@@itscalledfreedomofspeech5019 The majority of Homes are wrapped in Tyvek, because it meets minimum code and has been the standard for decades. Modern technologies have far surpassed housewrap, but are slow to catch on because carpenters and builders don't like change. Halo Exterra combines the breathability of housewrap with the insulation value of foamboard, thereby making it superior to Tyvek. But what do I know, I'm only a career General Contractor who builds energy-efficient and weather-tight homes from the ground up, AND keeps up on modern technologies.
Well said buddy.
Check code in your area. In my climate zone you need 2” of foam on the outside wall to prevent condensation on the inner side of the foam. Condensation will rot the wall.
Where do you live that requires that?
@ 🇨🇦
@@robsgaragewoodworkin CA is ??? Canada? What part?
@ southern Ontario. I was looking into upgrading the insulation on my house and swapping the siding. Whilst searching through code and recommended thickness I had found some research on the subject. They had climate zone bands across North America with the necessary R values. I’m on the border between 1.5” and 2” foam. So depending on application style (which I was looking to place foam directly on the outside of the OSB sheathing) you needed a minimum thickness to prevent condensation from developing behind the insulation on the OSB and rotting the OSB. Once the foam is applied on the OSB it no longer can dry to the outside as foam is non vapour permeable. Through the studies conducted (not sure it was CMHC) but the government/university studies constantly conducted, this was the recommendation. This recommendation will be similar with all the Northern States. Codes are different per area and “minimum” codes are a bit of a joke so always dig a bit deeper.
Nice job in giving the house a whole new skin with continuous insulation. But, why didn't you put a weather barrier over the exterior sheathing? Also, peel and stick flashing would've been better used over the metal flashing.
So you do a complete replacement and then only 2 inches? Would have at least doubled that. Currently rebuilding my 250m2 home with 9 inch insulation an it's comfortable heated with a 5kw heat pump.
Please explain the 9 inches? is that 4" foam + 4 inches cavity or ? Also, how do you fasten siding with/through 4 inches of foam?
Grenville comes to mind
Yeah different application though no chimney effect that caused Grenville, terrible that was
Done this also even on the insides of walls and floor cut utilities in have no joke
Loved this video…now if only I had the money I’d do this to my house. Gets so cold and expensive to heat in the winter.
I was hoping you would show installing windows and doors after the insulation panels are installed
I am a DIY person who learns from reading, watching and doing. I appreciate this video because you taught me something. I am just starting as a DIY person. You used a router for the windows and the plywood. I know it’s simple but it helped. What router bit did you use? Thank you.
Rockwool might have been a better easier solution if this is like other foam board you cant put it out once it catches fire, its a consideration and if it was a shipping container with foam on the inside its an incinerator
I love that stuff most new homes are adding this now. Makes it like a frkn icebox. Warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. Love your videos. Now if I could get my wife to help me in mine😅
Just tell her this this is the only way this can end early lol
@@WINNI.Designs
is this product fire resistant ?
@@WINNI.Designs well ?
Is this a fire resistant material or not ?
No shame in saying the Truth.
@@ianking-jv4hgпо идее, он "не поддерживает горение"
@@ianking-jv4hg you could Google it. I just did.
Cool vid, thank you!
Great work.
Amazing demonstration 👏👏
Auch mit der Dämmung drauf sagen wir in Deutschland zu so einem Haus Bretterschuppen oder Ferienhütte für den Sommer. Stein auf Stein gebaut ist bei uns ein Wohnhaus für das ganze Jahr.
Polystyrene and wood makes an awesome bonfire.
We build garden sheds better than that over here in EU land. The standard for wall and roof insulation is 14cm, and that's for solid brick walls. Double or triple glazing, too. My old house has stone walls which are 60cm thick, and a well insulated roof. Solar panels, too.
Carpenter ants love foam insulation.
Ants do not eat foam, try again.
How hard is it to mount the windows through that foam? And does siding present any mounting issues?
This could help people "recycle" and renovate older homes and manufactured homes that would otherwise deteriorate and become teardowns. In a market that has priced many out of home ownership, this could really make a difference.
Was that a shack or an actual house from the beginning. 😮
Good video
Good job 👏 👍 👌 ❤
Solid work! Where did that sweet box knife come from?
My local lumber yard:)!
You put that half moon window in without. He king for level when you traced it? Definitely a great way to make this inside warmer with this type of protection on the outside.
Could retrofit this over my brick exterior walls and then clad over the top? 100 year old house.
There is a lot of ways to achieve your goal so what is your r-value now and what I don't understand is why would you take off texture t11 to replace it with plywood
This actually looks like a lot of fun!
Beautiful location too; I'd love to live there🤩
Can this be done to a cement block built house ?
Its nice to see that american proffeissionals apreciate more Hilti an european brand moren than american line festools or milwaukee. Europe is Europe in quality
China manufactured anyway😂😂😂
Question. The windows were nailed to the studs on the outside of them house. How would the .ount now with that foam over the studs?
Такой красивый дом испортили, а можно было между стоек деревянных положить утеплитель и закрыть его пароизоляцией. Эффект был бы тотже, а если 15 см утеплителя, то на много лучше
Sehr richtig!!
@@thl7587Everyone is a critic. It all depends on where you live, what building supplies are available, and what specific objective you are trying to achieve. The cost of labor is a huge consideration.
In America, labor is more expensive than materials. Many times tearing out the old to save man-hours is the best option.
@@WallyFuller пусть оно и так, но коммент был про то, что трата денег нерациональна в данном случае
Не пароизоляцию, а мембрану дышащую. А так, согласен,старую обшивку снимать не надо было
@@kozmaprutkov9761 со стороны помещения именно пароизоляция используется) Можете делать мембрану)
Agreed there should have been plywood under that outdoor sheeting or hardie board but if they were on a budget, and seeing the interior walls out, spray expansion foam would have been the cheaper better way. I would have done plywood not OSB, then a water barrier and exterior, then shoot foam on the inside. The exterior sheeting has something between it and the actual structure and when that something starts to deteriorate, there will be issues. Hardie board, moisture barrier, plywood and foam inside, will last longer, and I would imagine be far more fire resistant, not to mention cheaper.
Shit foam?! 🤣
@@tekknorat lol, I fat fingered that one for sure 😂
Ive found rigid foam sheeting still allows cold walls.
Is this a barn for horses and cows?
Thanks for posting and sharing. Enjoyed, and presented the insulation product very well.
Nice work 👏
Hello my friend your work is amazing 😁🤩❤🎉
What was the final material that you put over the insulation?
Amazing how primitive American buildings are. This would not pass the cow shed inspector in much of Europe.
That's why your houses last longer. Here a strong wings make the houses fly away.
Brick building here in Ireland 😊
So what are you supposed to do to finish out your exterior...??? And why not just insulated inside your walls..???
That,was awesome
Could they just have put the insulation from the inside instead of removing the wall
Big question. Who puts inside panelling on the outside walls. That is pretty thin stuff for the outside walls
В русском понимании это не дом, это сарай. У нас новые дома строят в два с половиной кирпича толщиной стены. Строят и каркасные, но гораздо толще с утеплителем в несколько слоёв. Ещё дома из бруса 200/200 с отделкой: внутренней и наружной. А также дома из кругляка - классика русского домостроения.
Я из России у нас сараи не такии, и что ты хочешь сказать бетонный сарай из панелек которыми вся Россия застроенна лучше😂😂😂😂, я делаю ремонты, в России жилье в основном для скотины,. Кстати коровники как раз и строили из бетонных панелей😅
So how do you add facade elements on that foam?
I love team work. Great job !
Больше всего понравились собачки 👍😅
Great work! Nicely done. I like it.
Could have easily installed fiberglass batts or spray foam insulation between the wall studs and saved the exterior siding lowering the overall cost of this project.
Good video, got right to the point, not alot of talking, none of that like and subscribe jargon. Looks like a good product, dont pay no mind to the folks who complained about tossing the wood sheeting, i would have too
What was the final cost and the time involved? Compare that to doing spray foam on the inside and you'll be surprised.
Stupid question, but why do you stagger the plywood when you nail it to the 2x4s?
I think I would have spread pesticide before that foam board.iv seen some bad news with those termites in FL.
Looked like your board insulation went right to edge of windows (w/o furring strips). Can you share how you attached your windows via your nailing fins? Perhaps relied more on nails through the casings into the framing? Thanks!
Easy quick protects structure
Great job 👍 I'm going try it on my work shop. You give me ideas 💡.
Dobra Robota
Very nice job
Wouldn't have that guy build me a dog house, slap dash git r done.😂
Thanks for the video ❤
You are doing the professional work.
Very good 👍
Why you quit the wood?!?? You should over lap the panels onthe wood wall 🙄
i not understand double and triple work for the same objective.
Lapped your vertical tape the wrong way but other than that, excellent job!
Fantastic job
So what is the R value of that exterior insulation/ vapour barrier/radiant barrier product??
Idk, but it's not much. My guess is if it's 5 it's a lot.
@@brianmccarthy1322 it looks like R10. R5 would be about 3/4” thick.
Nice professional job.. your hired.
No caulk at lap joint on bottom trim
Was concerned about the top as well.
Very cool! I mean warm. 😊
В России дом с таким утеплением годен только для хранения инструмента
Nothing new. We were doing this in the 1970’s. The manufacturer demanded we put a corrugated air vent strip at the bottom. The best use of foam sheets was on the interior. Solved the stud air leakage and moisture barrier as long as you taped everything off. Gave a great surface for sheetrock especially when studs were 24” oc.
@@boatdesigner12 doing it the way he did it is now code in a lot of places. It provides a thermal break. We know a lot more about energy efficiency now than we did 50 years ago.
Awesome, and thank you!😊
It would have made far more sense to have fitted the insulation to the frame & fitted the OSB on the outside. The insulation between the studs would have then filled the voids up to the sheet insulation making a decent layer of insulation.
My timber frame house has a warm roof design. The rafters are 9” & a further 2” of high density polyurethane was laid over them in 8x4 sheets. A breathable membrane was applied underneath & all the voids were pumped full of cellulose insulation, making 11” & a very efficient solution
Nic job
Why not use exterior grade plywood? 500 more dollars to have 10x the protection over osb.
Whats the R value 😊