Fantastic video. I've been putting this off for a while, and you've motivated me to tackle the job. Great, clear, and thorough video. Laying them out all together was super helpful. Thank you!
@articat568 I really appreciate the sub! And I will keep up the detail. I am trying to answer questions that I had before the start of the swap. I am trying to get vidoes out as soon as possible. Not to air out my laundry, but my dad is having medical issues and I am taking care of him so the video posts are slow right now but stay tuned! Again thanks for the sub and the comment!!
@@dtperformance256 I’m sticking around and I hope all goes well with your family! I’m building a 92 and am in the rust belt so I’m having to fix the rotten mount holes, That of which I gotta do some decent math and playing to get right lol, Glad to see someone go deep on this
@articat568 double thanks. Engine crossmember brake line fitment, AC housing or heater box fitment, and tranny crossmember fitment coming! Then on to harness and fuel!
Thanks Allen. I was going to POR15 the underside with a can of grey that I had left over from another project, but it was dried up. I didn’t seal the can well so I just went with rattle can. I shop eBay and Amazon. Sometimes eBay is much cheaper on stuff.
I think some of the other builder/restorers use truck bed liner sprayed on the bottom side of body, could probably add tint to it if you want a different color. I knew a guy that said he was considering spraying his whole truck with bedliner because it was so tough, durable, and easy care. But that was a 4wd truck!
I almost Raptor lined this one. I just don’t like the rough texture underneath that holds in road dirt. If it is smooth you ran rinse it off with a hose. That’s just me and my opinion. Thanks for watching and the comments.
I just found your videos, thank you for making them! I used energy suspension body mounts on my s10 and did not notice any negatives, I love them. Do you have any advice on how to flip over a bed, even vertically, without causing any damage? I want to remove mine for rust grinding and painting the bottom
@Jason Bryant. Absolutely!! Thank you for watching and commenting. On the bed… I had 4 people lined up to flip my bed. I was shockingly surprised that it weighs nothing. We removed the tailgate. I placed a large Harbor Freight moving blanket on the floor (folded in half for more cushion), me and my son lifted the bed and flipped it up on the flat end of the bed. I placed two saw horses that would be equally on each side of the fender wells and we tipped it over and placed it on the saw horses. It is very light and easy to do with two people. If you dont have two people I was going to use a cherry picker and extend the boom to the middle and connect straps in each corner. Set the bed off and stand it up on the flat non tailgate end. Put your saw horses down and grab the tailgate and lower it down on the saw horses. Two people make it a lot easier but if you have a cherry picker it can be done with one person. It is really not that heavy. You will be surprised once you get it unbolted and ready to remove. Thanks for watching and the questions/comments!!
FYI -service manual says " Tighten the bolts to 70 N.m (52 lb ft)." Service manual ASSUMES you're replacing with OEM rubber replacements which are WAY softer. With the Energy Suspension polyurethane ones I just tighten em tight and check again after 2 wks to make sure they're tight. Sheet that came from Energy Suspension says to tighten to 44-55ft. lbs. (standard/extended cab)
@worshipwhilewewait Thanks for sharing!! My Energy Suspension kit instructions only says to tighten to factory spec. I added a little blue loc-tite and went back and torqued to 45 ft lbs. I will definitely be rechecking the torque spec once I have a little drive time on it. I really appreciate the information and thanks again for watching and commenting!!
Thanks Chris! I like it and since I am not where they salt the roads not really worried about rust or having to undercoat. Thanks for watching and the comment!!
Outstanding, Donald. I tackled this job today, mine is a 42 year old Michigan S10 so not as simple as your upgrade.. a man told me he removed a number of cabs and they have washers above the front mounts? I was told I should put washers above the front cab mounts, did you get it lined up nice without adding any washers?
@406Menace Racecar Thanks… mine did not have washers on any of the cab mounting locations. If you look at what I call the cups that hold the body bushings, they look like they have a big washer made to the top of them from the factory. Mine is a 92 model, maybe the older version used washers? I am not sure though. Mine went back together very easy. Everything lined up well when I put it back together. I hope this helps you out.
@@dtperformance256 mine was a real female dog because it has rolll bars , a homemade cage in it. It really was a lot of grunt work. But your video laid out where each bushing goes- only difference is mine came in black but the same numbers. My large cups were disintegrated and I had some extra small ones here so I used those since I noticed it didn't change the dimensions of the assembly.
@406Mence Racecar glad you got it going. Did you grease your bushings? I used some white lithium grease to keep’em from squeaking. A mechanic friend told me I’ll be glad I did.
I thought the same thing. If I were in an area that salted the roads for winter and this was my daily driver, I beleive I would go with Raptor liner underneath for both protection and sound deadening. I am not in a location where I have to worry with rust is the reason I went with paint. I also wanted the underside to look clean with the grey and especially since I POR15 the frame. You can get tintable Raptor I know, but the only real con I can think off is that if you want it to not trap dirt, possibly oil, tranny fluid you need something smooth like a paint. That is the only reason I did not Raptor underneath. I just think it would trap alot of grime and grease over time and would probably be hard to clean if you ever wanted it to be clean underneath. On the other hand if you keep the leaks to a minimum and clean it on occasion, dirt and grease may never be an issue. That is my thought process anyway. I hope it helps you decide.
@@dtperformance256 good point. I didn’t think about the textured crevices trapping dirt. I live in Southern California where rust is not an issue. Perhaps I’ll go with something else. Thanks man. Appreciate you answering all my questions as I embark on my resto journey.
Cesar, I love talking tech stuff. Ask away brother, I’m full of opinions….lol maybe some of them help. Yeah definitely if you are in Cali I would probably go with paint underneath and Lizard Skin spray in sound deadner in the cab. I used KilMat but haven’t driven it yet so I can’t give an honest review. I would love to see some photos sometime of what you are doing. Thanks for watching bro!
I got a Chevy s10 93 and my cab bushings are rusty and rotted so I need to replace them ASAP but have a few questions for you, hopefully you can help me out. When you order the bushings from energy suspension, do they include the bolts as well and the other parts because mine are all damage. Other question, it’s the nut welded to the cab? I’m trying to do it myself but im afraid to break the bolt. Any suggestions, recommendations? Thanks!
@eduardoortiz3015 Maybe this will help you. When your order the bushings they do not include bolts or the metal cup style washers. The nut is not welded. It is a floating nut inside the pad where the cab mounts. If you can get your bolt out the captured nut should be ok. I know you can buy replacement sheetmetal parts from LMC and other restoration places online. Partsgeek, CARid, and Stockwise Auto will have the parts you need to rebuild any of the mount pads on first gen. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope this info helps you out.
Confused. Floating nut or captured nut means? I was guessing that part welded to body which is rusted away on my 02 s10 had threaded hole to receive bolt. I assume that's what you saying near end of video about not stripping that thresd
@gadasavideos8564 a captured nut is inside the hole. It is a piece of steel that moves around in the hole but it is threaded to receive a bolt. Mine were extremely rusted and I thought I was going to damage the threads trying to get the bolt out. It finally came loose. The threaded part is actually up in the underside of the cab in a cavity. That is why it is called a captured or floating nut. It is actually loose in the cavity. I hope this helps and thanks for watching and commenting!
Fantastic video. I've been putting this off for a while, and you've motivated me to tackle the job. Great, clear, and thorough video. Laying them out all together was super helpful. Thank you!
@jaykramer2092 Glad this helped you out!! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Got a sub out of me,
If you keep the detail up you’re the only one showing an s10 like this
@articat568 I really appreciate the sub! And I will keep up the detail. I am trying to answer questions that I had before the start of the swap. I am trying to get vidoes out as soon as possible. Not to air out my laundry, but my dad is having medical issues and I am taking care of him so the video posts are slow right now but stay tuned! Again thanks for the sub and the comment!!
@@dtperformance256 I’m sticking around and I hope all goes well with your family!
I’m building a 92 and am in the rust belt so I’m having to fix the rotten mount holes,
That of which I gotta do some decent math and playing to get right lol,
Glad to see someone go deep on this
@articat568 double thanks. Engine crossmember brake line fitment, AC housing or heater box fitment, and tranny crossmember fitment coming! Then on to harness and fuel!
@@dtperformance256you wouldn’t happen to have the rear mount frame hole measurement would you?
@articat568 the hole diameter where the bumper brackets mount? Just double checking what you need.
That's a clean nice rust free S10 you have there! Not used to seeing these without rust up here in the rust belt area.
@jeffallen3382 Yeah down here in bama they are easy to find. But with the prices after the Covid era they are high priced like everywhere else.
@@dtperformance256 Roll Tide! My wife is a MASSIVE Alabama football fan!
@jeffalllen3382 Tell her ROLL TIDE from DTPerformance!! My wife is an Auburn fan. House divided. Ugh…
@@dtperformance256 oh I don't envy that!
Great video just great common sense.
@waynegrantham9262 Thanks Wayne! I am a big fan of common sense 😂. Thanks for the view and the comments!
Did they underside of mine with por15 yours looks good got my ES mounts on eBay
Thanks Allen. I was going to POR15 the underside with a can of grey that I had left over from another project, but it was dried up. I didn’t seal the can well so I just went with rattle can. I shop eBay and Amazon. Sometimes eBay is much cheaper on stuff.
I think some of the other builder/restorers use truck bed liner sprayed on the bottom side of body, could probably add tint to it if you want a different color. I knew a guy that said he was considering spraying his whole truck with bedliner because it was so tough, durable, and easy care. But that was a 4wd truck!
I almost Raptor lined this one. I just don’t like the rough texture underneath that holds in road dirt. If it is smooth you ran rinse it off with a hose. That’s just me and my opinion. Thanks for watching and the comments.
Guys, I am finding 20ft lbs on the torque spec and blue loctite on the cab mount bolts. What do you guys show?
I just found your videos, thank you for making them! I used energy suspension body mounts on my s10 and did not notice any negatives, I love them. Do you have any advice on how to flip over a bed, even vertically, without causing any damage? I want to remove mine for rust grinding and painting the bottom
@Jason Bryant. Absolutely!! Thank you for watching and commenting. On the bed… I had 4 people lined up to flip my bed. I was shockingly surprised that it weighs nothing. We removed the tailgate. I placed a large Harbor Freight moving blanket on the floor (folded in half for more cushion), me and my son lifted the bed and flipped it up on the flat end of the bed. I placed two saw horses that would be equally on each side of the fender wells and we tipped it over and placed it on the saw horses. It is very light and easy to do with two people. If you dont have two people I was going to use a cherry picker and extend the boom to the middle and connect straps in each corner. Set the bed off and stand it up on the flat non tailgate end. Put your saw horses down and grab the tailgate and lower it down on the saw horses. Two people make it a lot easier but if you have a cherry picker it can be done with one person. It is really not that heavy. You will be surprised once you get it unbolted and ready to remove. Thanks for watching and the questions/comments!!
FYI -service manual says " Tighten the bolts to 70 N.m (52 lb ft)." Service manual ASSUMES you're replacing with OEM rubber replacements which are WAY softer. With the Energy Suspension polyurethane ones I just tighten em tight and check again after 2 wks to make sure they're tight. Sheet that came from Energy Suspension says to tighten to 44-55ft. lbs. (standard/extended cab)
@worshipwhilewewait Thanks for sharing!! My Energy Suspension kit instructions only says to tighten to factory spec. I added a little blue loc-tite and went back and torqued to 45 ft lbs. I will definitely be rechecking the torque spec once I have a little drive time on it. I really appreciate the information and thanks again for watching and commenting!!
I think underneath looks good painted
Thanks Chris! I like it and since I am not where they salt the roads not really worried about rust or having to undercoat. Thanks for watching and the comment!!
Outstanding, Donald.
I tackled this job today, mine is a 42 year old Michigan S10 so not as simple as your upgrade.. a man told me he removed a number of cabs and they have washers above the front mounts?
I was told I should put washers above the front cab mounts, did you get it lined up nice without adding any washers?
@406Menace Racecar Thanks… mine did not have washers on any of the cab mounting locations. If you look at what I call the cups that hold the body bushings, they look like they have a big washer made to the top of them from the factory. Mine is a 92 model, maybe the older version used washers? I am not sure though. Mine went back together very easy. Everything lined up well when I put it back together. I hope this helps you out.
@@dtperformance256 mine was a real female dog because it has rolll bars , a homemade cage in it. It really was a lot of grunt work. But your video laid out where each bushing goes- only difference is mine came in black but the same numbers. My large cups were disintegrated and I had some extra small ones here so I used those since I noticed it didn't change the dimensions of the assembly.
@406Mence Racecar glad you got it going. Did you grease your bushings? I used some white lithium grease to keep’em from squeaking. A mechanic friend told me I’ll be glad I did.
@@dtperformance256 I did, lithium. But I wouldn't hear a squeak in this car 😆
@406Menace Racecar understand 😂
I was considering spraying the underbody with raptor lining for durability and improve interior noise. Pros and cons thoughts?
I thought the same thing. If I were in an area that salted the roads for winter and this was my daily driver, I beleive I would go with Raptor liner underneath for both protection and sound deadening. I am not in a location where I have to worry with rust is the reason I went with paint. I also wanted the underside to look clean with the grey and especially since I POR15 the frame. You can get tintable Raptor I know, but the only real con I can think off is that if you want it to not trap dirt, possibly oil, tranny fluid you need something smooth like a paint. That is the only reason I did not Raptor underneath. I just think it would trap alot of grime and grease over time and would probably be hard to clean if you ever wanted it to be clean underneath. On the other hand if you keep the leaks to a minimum and clean it on occasion, dirt and grease may never be an issue. That is my thought process anyway. I hope it helps you decide.
@@dtperformance256 good point. I didn’t think about the textured crevices trapping dirt. I live in Southern California where rust is not an issue. Perhaps I’ll go with something else. Thanks man. Appreciate you answering all my questions as I embark on my resto journey.
Cesar, I love talking tech stuff. Ask away brother, I’m full of opinions….lol maybe some of them help. Yeah definitely if you are in Cali I would probably go with paint underneath and Lizard Skin spray in sound deadner in the cab. I used KilMat but haven’t driven it yet so I can’t give an honest review. I would love to see some photos sometime of what you are doing. Thanks for watching bro!
I got a Chevy s10 93 and my cab bushings are rusty and rotted so I need to replace them ASAP but have a few questions for you, hopefully you can help me out. When you order the bushings from energy suspension, do they include the bolts as well and the other parts because mine are all damage. Other question, it’s the nut welded to the cab? I’m trying to do it myself but im afraid to break the bolt. Any suggestions, recommendations? Thanks!
@eduardoortiz3015 Maybe this will help you. When your order the bushings they do not include bolts or the metal cup style washers. The nut is not welded. It is a floating nut inside the pad where the cab mounts. If you can get your bolt out the captured nut should be ok. I know you can buy replacement sheetmetal parts from LMC and other restoration places online. Partsgeek, CARid, and Stockwise Auto will have the parts you need to rebuild any of the mount pads on first gen. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope this info helps you out.
Confused. Floating nut or captured nut means? I was guessing that part welded to body which is rusted away on my 02 s10 had threaded hole to receive bolt. I assume that's what you saying near end of video about not stripping that thresd
@gadasavideos8564 a captured nut is inside the hole. It is a piece of steel that moves around in the hole but it is threaded to receive a bolt. Mine were extremely rusted and I thought I was going to damage the threads trying to get the bolt out. It finally came loose. The threaded part is actually up in the underside of the cab in a cavity. That is why it is called a captured or floating nut. It is actually loose in the cavity. I hope this helps and thanks for watching and commenting!
i replaced these on my F250 and I never want to do it again!! lol
@jWRe-t1g LOL…. Were the bolts hard to get out?
@dtperformance256 absolutely. the blue loctite ford uses works really well. i had to torch heat the bolts and set the foam on fire. lol
@@jWRe-t1g Yeah I thought I was going to break the bolts or they were stripping out as I was loosing them.