I'm now installing my third pair of batteries in my Series 5. Had the razor about 10 years now. Here are some comments/answers to Mark's video and what you must know to do this: 1. The processor is a Microchip microcontroller. The coating on board is polyurethane. Recommend replacement batteries with metal strip solder terminals already attached. Get the type with NARROW metal strips, not the type with a hole in the ends; these strips are far too wide to pass through the board. 2. Coils block motor brush RF noise from back-feeding into the circuitry. 3. Use a lighted magnifier on an arm to work on battery removal and replacement. You need a temp-controlled iron with a small tip (not a micro-tip) AND good soldering skills to replace batteries. When you unsolder the batteries, be sure you DO NOT remove solder from any half-circles. Tin-lead solder works fine. Lead-free solder is too big a headache to work with. 4. Do not pry loose welded terminals on batteries. This greatly stresses solder joints on the board, which can become an open-circuit later on from vibration. Stress can cause copper on the board to crack and go open-circuit, which can be hell to find and fix. Circuit board has thin 1-ounce copper, not 2 ounces. 5. On some versions of the circuit board, near a battery-terminal is a tiny pair of half-circles factory-shorted together using a small amount of solder. These half-circles are similar to those shown in the video. 6. If you accidentally remove the solder jumper and then try to charge the shaver with new batteries, the shaver LED indicators will endlessly blink indicating a fault. This did not damage circuitry. Just remove the board and add a tiny drop of solder to the half-circles. 7. Never add solder to short half-circles that did not have any solder before you worked on it.
obviously PREACHING is a BIG THING for YOU. but you MUST know that the most of what you said is either pointless OR obvious. i mean what good is if i must know that i need a temperature controlled iron if you are not going to say why or what TEMP it must be on.
Thank you for your detailed walk through. This was an invaluable guide to help me through the battery replacement and it’s great to have it working fully again!!
I've had my 7536 for over 10 years. Works perfect to this day. I took it apart while watching your video to clean it out. It was dirty inside but not too bad. I'm amazed at the wonderful construction of this device. They don't make Braun shavers now like they used to. I'm probably going to swap out the batteries in this and put it back together. The batteries are actually still good. They both hold a 1.33v charge and still last reasonably long.
Thank You! I just clipped out the original batteries and used what was left of the clips to solder in the new batteries with a higher capacity. better than new... 14+ years later!
Yeah, you pretty well have to clip them off because they are certainly not soldered on. :-( I wish they were plug-in types. But, if so, how are those shaver shops going to charge you an arm and a leg?
Great video. I had the vibe that I was listening to an engineer. The trimmer on my father's Braun was not working. It was very helpful to hear how to open up the razor. The problem on mine turned out to be a cracked housing, which allowed crud to get inside. I cleaned up all of the parts, and the razor works like new.
Mine is older I think and it was necessary to unscrew 4 places to get to the batteries. Disassembly was easy. It would have been helpful if I would have known what tool was used to cut the tabs of the batteries. I used a Dremel tool with a diamond rotary blade. Soldering was dicey. I should have bought some kind of pinpoint soldering iron. A Braun series 7 similar to my 5 is $170 on Amazon. Batteries were $8.95. Amazingly my razor still works. Whew!
I decided to press my luck and tried to replace the batteries. The battery ends are spot-welded, so it makes them nearly impossible to remove without destroying the tabs. The best way to remove the batteries is to go underneath the PCB board, and desoder them out, tabs and all. This way, you won't destroy the board or other nearby components with a hot iron.
+tulebox Which leads me to ask, does anybody know where I can buy replacement tabs for AA-size batteries? Like the ones in the video (fork-like shape)? They have to go through the PCB board, hole-mounted style. I searched everywhere for them, can't find them.
I would rather buy the batteries with tabs aleady on them, since soldering tabs on batteries are difficult and somewhat dangerous. The battery acts like a heat sink and draws the heat away from the solder. It may explode if it gets too hot. But can't find tabs with through-hole pin leads on them.
Had this happen to my 7526, there are a few very fragile plastic parts in this section that just give up over time. Only suggestion is to transfer this section from a donor of same model number as could not find replacement parts.
Hi.... any chance you can post a pic of how the trimmer is attached inside the upper casing? Took mine apart and a small piece fell off... can’t tell where it attaches ... thx
All that work and then cheap out and use old dead batteries that are certainly no good after sitting dead for 2 years. I understand being frugal,but there is a point of diminishing returns.
Super helpful video, showing the teardown (which I couldn't figure out) - thanks very much! If people (complainers below) can't figure out to how to replace the cells themselves after watching this, they probably shouldn't be doing it anyway.
Hello................... Warning/Note If you have the braun series 550C with the sleeker handle and single battery, you have to take the motor and battery circuit board out At the same time. IF you take the battery circuit board out First, as this and other videos show, you will probally damage one of the two contacts to the motor. LIKe I did. So this thing is shot. I new spring contact could be soldered in if you can find one. good luck finding one if you do what i did. THE GOOD news is you do not need to solder the battery in.
btw, I also find that this Braun shaver lies about its battery status. I don't think the chip actually reads the battery voltage. It simply remembers how long it's been plugged in, and displays a fake battery status based on that. So, you can have a fully charged battery, and the status can read 'empty' if the charger unit wasn't plugged in.
+tulebox I respectfully disagree. The unit at the least has a voltage curve monitor. It most likely also has a coulomb counter which can measure the actual energy pulled from the battery. That counter would get reset when the device loses complete power and may require recalibration over a few charge cycles.
+Mark Furneaux I own the 8995. It comes with a LCD display. If you take the shaver apart, you can separate the battery board and the LCD board. The funny thing about it, is that the LCD continues to stay powered. And it says I have a full charge, even though the thing is completely disconnected from the battery. It doesn't know if the battery is dead or not. So, I see it as a complete lie.
tulebox The display is most likely a type which will hold it's value indefinitely when power is removed. They only need power to change states. They are used so that the screen doesn't run the battery down when the product is off.
+Mark Furneaux NiMH batteries have someting called "memory effect", where they lose their max charge over time. I think it would look bad if they displayed the real battery level (e.g. 50%). So, I think they lie instead and say "fully charged".
I have a Braun series 5 shaver that's nothing like the one in this video. It has one Sanyo UR14500L battery which i haven't been able to find/purchase.
This would have been a great video if it was titled "An in depth tour of the inner workings of the Braun Series 5 Razor". The battery replacement part of the video, which is what I was interested in, should have been less than five minutes. The rest is a waste of time to anyone who landed here looking for instructions to replace the batteries in their razor.
I have the 360 complete which is a very similar model to yours. It still works fine but somehow the head got loose and it sounds horrible when powered on. No screws seem loose. I wonder if something broke. I just never had it apart because they can be tricky to get into without instructions. Now I have a Series 5 which uses the same cutters and foils the older one did. That is nice if you have a broken shaver but the foil and cutter are still usable.
John Doe, mine has the same problem. I've tried finding the loose connection, to no avail. I hate throwing away such a nice razor, but I don't use it anymore because of the noise!
btw, the charger cap is very fragile. It has 4 tiny plastic legs on each corner. If you pop up one side and pull it, you will break off the other two legs. I think Braun purposely made it fragile, so people would destroy the cap legs if they tried to open it.
Hello wondering if you could give me some advice. . I replaced the batteries on my braun syncro 7680 the same way you did but my shaver will not charge all the way. It repeatedly gives me a temp error. I then have to unplug the shaver and wait for it to cool down then try again. This process takes about 3 days before I can get a complete full charge. The batteries used are brand new. I have taken it apart numerous times and re soldered it thinking the connections could be the problem but still the same issue. any help would be appreciated. .. thanks
+Anthony Gemus Does it actually get hot? It could be that the cells you installed are not rated for the same rapid charge rate. If not, maybe the thermocouple is damaged.
+Mark Furneaux no the cells are fine because I reinstalled the old batteries and they also gave me the temp warning. It does get warm when charging but not hot
@@anthonyg8435 Hey, did you ever figure out the temp problem? I have the same problem on 2 different 7570 Braun shavers and you are the only person I can find that has mentioned this problem. My batteries are not getting hot but the board is. Both shavers start by charging at about 1100ma at a 50% duty cycle for exactly 10 minutes to the second. Then they switch to the same 1100ma at a 100% duty cycle and the "temp" error shows up shortly later. The only way to get the 50% duty cycle back is to remove battery power and then it does the same thing over and over again. It's driving me nuts!!!
There is no reason to change the batteries. On the other hand, these batteries last very little and have a poor performance. You just had to charge the machine and use it only with the cable.
Thanks for sharing That was very informative, And I have a Braun series 5 Nr 8595 with the display on, That is attach to The battery bank on the component side, anything else is almost The same, So IT Was very Helpful and use-full Thanks... Best Jørgen Thomsen Denmark DK
I appreciate the effort but this video only shows how to disassemble the razor, 2 or 3 mins is all this video should be and you shouldn't even mention anything about showing how to change the batteries because you didn't show that at all. I want to know tips and tricks for actually doing the battery swap, not pointing out the obvious. Show us how you removed the tabs instead of shutting the camera off, having your neighbor do the work and then bringing it back and saying there we go!
I have a shaver similar to yours, 8995. Just out of curiosity, I removed the case to look at the batteries, and clean it up, and when I put everything back together, and turned it on, the damn thing wouldn't start. LED works, blue charger light works, but no motor! Should have never watched this damn video. Arrgh. Son of a B.
+Mark Furneaux The batteries been dead for almost 2 years. I ran it with the cord plugged in. For whatever reason, it worked like that. Now, the motor part doesn't turn on. Took it apart a dozen times already. Contacts are clean. Nothing is bent or broken (except for those dead batteries). Will be replacing those soon as I get some.
+Mark Furneaux Just two questions. Are the batteries soldered on both ends? The power receptable is blocking one end, so it's hard to reach. If I had multimeter with a continuity test, should I see continuity at the ends of each battery, while they're soldered in? If there's a break in one of the batteries, then the power won't flow to the motor contact pads, correct?
+tulebox In my razer they are soldered on each end. I'm not sure what you meant by "continuity at both ends". Do you mean through the battery, implying that the battery is open circuit? That is almost impossible, and measuring a battery with a meter in continuity mode can damage the meter. It depends on the charge circuit design for whether the shaver will run without the batteries being properly connected. I don't know the circuit so I can't say.
+Mark Furneaux If possible, I would like to bypass the batteries and run it from the cord only. But, nobody seems to be able to give a good answer on this. Will replacing the battery with a wire destroy the circuitry? I suspect one or more dead batteries is shorting out the connection to the motor.
Why don't you just get a battery-powered travel razor? They're cheap and you can replace the batteries as easily as you can a flashlight. I have the larger of the two Panasonic travel razors and it shaves very nicely. You can keep a supply of Li-Ion cells and a charger and have batteries forever!
This video could be less than 5 min without the extra commentaries that are not relevant to the repair. In addition, it is sloppy for you to replace the old battery with a standard Duracell rechargeables without knowing the capacity and voltage of the old one. If you go through the trouble of opening it up, desolder it and resolder it, the least you should do is to replace with the right new battery, not some old batteries. You can get the new battery on line to replace the old battery with exact capacity and voltage. I would not be surprised if you has to replace the battery again in a few months if the Duracell is near its life. The OEM battery are high drain battery and designed to match with the charger controller, don't try to replace it with something it is not designed for, you are only asking for trouble.
I think the NiMH battery chemistry pretty much defines the voltage. And these things don't appear to be stacked cells in a AA physical form factor. And why would the manufacturer go build their own custom batteries that just happen to be in an industry standard cell format? They can source commodity battery components, and maintain their margins.. it's not like this application is a really extreme one that requires a custom battery component. And the battery capacity for the given volume isn't going to vary all that much, either. This sounds like a great way to reuse idle NiMH batteries that are lying around, which are unlikely to find a use elsewhere in recent consumer electronic equipment.
Good Grief man. You spent FOREVER rambling and babbling on about everything about the razor and then very little about replacing the batteries. What a waste of time.
13:56 of long-winded verbal diarhoea. The mark of a good how-to video is brevity. You could have done this in less than 5 min, sparing us a treatise on the design or what your activities were for the day! 😞
I just want to replace the batteries, not reverse engineer it! Way too long, way too much information, way too much detail. You're reading off the part number of the battery. Really?
A lot of talk virtually none of which addresses the subject line ie replacing the batteries or cells as you put it. Everything about this shaver is mentioned yet the extraction of the existing "cells" is not shown neither is the installation of the new "cells" . Somewhat a waste of 13 minutes of my time.
![Best Electric Shavers 2024 [don’t buy one before watching this]](/img/n.gif)
I'm now installing my third pair of batteries in my Series 5. Had the razor about 10 years now. Here are some comments/answers to Mark's video and what you must know to do this:
1. The processor is a Microchip microcontroller. The coating on board is polyurethane. Recommend replacement batteries with metal strip solder terminals already attached. Get the type with NARROW metal strips, not the type with a hole in the ends; these strips are far too wide to pass through the board.
2. Coils block motor brush RF noise from back-feeding into the circuitry.
3. Use a lighted magnifier on an arm to work on battery removal and replacement. You need a temp-controlled iron with a small tip (not a micro-tip) AND good soldering skills to replace batteries. When you unsolder the batteries, be sure you DO NOT remove solder from any half-circles. Tin-lead solder works fine. Lead-free solder is too big a headache to work with.
4. Do not pry loose welded terminals on batteries. This greatly stresses solder joints on the board, which can become an open-circuit later on from vibration. Stress can cause copper on the board to crack and go open-circuit, which can be hell to find and fix. Circuit board has thin 1-ounce copper, not 2 ounces.
5. On some versions of the circuit board, near a battery-terminal is a tiny pair of half-circles factory-shorted together using a small amount of solder. These half-circles are similar to those shown in the video.
6. If you accidentally remove the solder jumper and then try to charge the shaver with new batteries, the shaver LED indicators will endlessly blink indicating a fault. This did not damage circuitry. Just remove the board and add a tiny drop of solder to the half-circles.
7. Never add solder to short half-circles that did not have any solder before you worked on it.
obviously PREACHING is a BIG THING for YOU. but you MUST know that the most of what you said is either pointless OR obvious.
i mean what good is if i must know that i need a temperature controlled iron if you are not going to say why or what TEMP it must be on.
Thank you for your detailed walk through. This was an invaluable guide to help me through the battery replacement and it’s great to have it working fully again!!
I've had my 7536 for over 10 years. Works perfect to this day. I took it apart while watching your video to clean it out. It was dirty inside but not too bad. I'm amazed at the wonderful construction of this device. They don't make Braun shavers now like they used to. I'm probably going to swap out the batteries in this and put it back together. The batteries are actually still good. They both hold a 1.33v charge and still last reasonably long.
Good video. Would be great to show how you broke off the tabs on the factory batteries.
Thank You! I just clipped out the original batteries and used what was left of the clips to solder in the new batteries with a higher capacity. better than new... 14+ years later!
Yeah, you pretty well have to clip them off because they are certainly not soldered on. :-( I wish they were plug-in types. But, if so, how are those shaver shops going to charge you an arm and a leg?
Great video. I had the vibe that I was listening to an engineer. The trimmer on my father's Braun was not working. It was very helpful to hear how to open up the razor. The problem on mine turned out to be a cracked housing, which allowed crud to get inside. I cleaned up all of the parts, and the razor works like new.
If you're just looking for battery replacement, skip from 3:35 to 9:00.
Thanks. Good point!
Thank you so much for making this video. Took my Braun razer apart, replaced the batteries, put it back together then had a nice shave. Cheers!
Good video, wished we could see the un-welding / welding process as well.
Very simple soldering. Nothing to it.
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for have had this model for many years also. (2 years later I am back here again to make another repair)
Mine is older I think and it was necessary to unscrew 4 places to get to the batteries. Disassembly was easy. It would have been helpful if I would have known what tool was used to cut the tabs of the batteries. I used a Dremel tool with a diamond rotary blade. Soldering was dicey. I should have bought some kind of pinpoint soldering iron. A Braun series 7 similar to my 5 is $170 on Amazon. Batteries were $8.95. Amazingly my razor still works. Whew!
I decided to press my luck and tried to replace the batteries. The battery ends are spot-welded, so it makes them nearly impossible to remove without destroying the tabs. The best way to remove the batteries is to go underneath the PCB board, and desoder them out, tabs and all. This way, you won't destroy the board or other nearby components with a hot iron.
+tulebox Which leads me to ask, does anybody know where I can buy replacement tabs for AA-size batteries? Like the ones in the video (fork-like shape)? They have to go through the PCB board, hole-mounted style. I searched everywhere for them, can't find them.
I would rather buy the batteries with tabs aleady on them, since soldering tabs on batteries are difficult and somewhat dangerous. The battery acts like a heat sink and draws the heat away from the solder. It may explode if it gets too hot. But can't find tabs with through-hole pin leads on them.
you can with an soldering iron
Damn...I wish I had read your post first. :-( Never thought of going underneath the PCB board. Damn, damn, damn. It is a mess but it works!
@@tulebox "explodes"!! Wow! Good to know - I guess I got lucky! Next time, for sure.
Super, thanks Mark. For a non-technical person like me this was very helpful. :)
Thank you sir. My sideburn trimmer just fell out and this video gives me insight on how to trouble shoot. cheers.
Had this happen to my 7526, there are a few very fragile plastic parts in this section that just give up over time. Only suggestion is to transfer this section from a donor of same model number as could not find replacement parts.
Hi.... any chance you can post a pic of how the trimmer is attached inside the upper casing? Took mine apart and a small piece fell off... can’t tell where it attaches ... thx
All that work and then cheap out and use old dead batteries that are certainly no good after sitting dead for 2 years. I understand being frugal,but there is a point of diminishing returns.
Super helpful video, showing the teardown (which I couldn't figure out) - thanks very much! If people (complainers below) can't figure out to how to replace the cells themselves after watching this, they probably shouldn't be doing it anyway.
Hello................... Warning/Note If you have the braun series 550C with the sleeker handle and single battery, you have to take the motor and battery circuit board out At the same time. IF you take the battery circuit board out First, as this and other videos show, you will probally damage one of the two contacts to the motor. LIKe I did. So this thing is shot. I new spring contact could be soldered in if you can find one. good luck finding one if you do what i did.
THE GOOD news is you do not need to solder the battery in.
btw, I also find that this Braun shaver lies about its battery status. I don't think the chip actually reads the battery voltage. It simply remembers how long it's been plugged in, and displays a fake battery status based on that. So, you can have a fully charged battery, and the status can read 'empty' if the charger unit wasn't plugged in.
+tulebox I respectfully disagree. The unit at the least has a voltage curve monitor. It most likely also has a coulomb counter which can measure the actual energy pulled from the battery. That counter would get reset when the device loses complete power and may require recalibration over a few charge cycles.
+Mark Furneaux I own the 8995. It comes with a LCD display. If you take the shaver apart, you can separate the battery board and the LCD board. The funny thing about it, is that the LCD continues to stay powered. And it says I have a full charge, even though the thing is completely disconnected from the battery. It doesn't know if the battery is dead or not. So, I see it as a complete lie.
tulebox The display is most likely a type which will hold it's value indefinitely when power is removed. They only need power to change states. They are used so that the screen doesn't run the battery down when the product is off.
+Mark Furneaux NiMH batteries have someting called "memory effect", where they lose their max charge over time. I think it would look bad if they displayed the real battery level (e.g. 50%). So, I think they lie instead and say "fully charged".
What is the aluminum can with brass shavings for ? Thanks Great vid btw My clipper or trimmer failed ,so seems a plastic arm is broken or unattached.
That is a solder iron tip cleaner.
I have a Braun series 5 shaver that's nothing like the one in this video. It has one Sanyo UR14500L battery which i haven't been able to find/purchase.
does a similar video exist for the older braun micron plus?
Thanks could not figure polarity of batteries you show at 11:25 thanks a ton..George
Good thing he mentioned it. So, I marked them before taking the old ones off!
How did you know which side was positive and which side was negative?
Can the trimmer be sharpened or replaced? My 8985 is starting to pull hair. Thank-you.
This would have been a great video if it was titled "An in depth tour of the inner workings of the Braun Series 5 Razor". The battery replacement part of the video, which is what I was interested in, should have been less than five minutes. The rest is a waste of time to anyone who landed here looking for instructions to replace the batteries in their razor.
Why you didn't made this first, exactly like you said, for other smart asses like yourself...
I have the 360 complete which is a very similar model to yours. It still works fine but somehow the head got loose and it sounds horrible when powered on. No screws seem loose. I wonder if something broke. I just never had it apart because they can be tricky to get into without instructions. Now I have a Series 5 which uses the same cutters and foils the older one did. That is nice if you have a broken shaver but the foil and cutter are still usable.
John Doe, mine has the same problem. I've tried finding the loose connection, to no avail. I hate throwing away such a nice razor, but I don't use it anymore because of the noise!
I have this exact model and the trimmer stopped working (Won't vibrate up and down). Does anyone know how to fix this problem?
Take it apart. If something's broken, you'll know right away. You'll see broken bits of plastic.
btw, the charger cap is very fragile. It has 4 tiny plastic legs on each corner. If you pop up one side and pull it, you will break off the other two legs. I think Braun purposely made it fragile, so people would destroy the cap legs if they tried to open it.
what did you mean by shear the welds off,( end tabs) how did you do it
The most difficult part of the process is separating the spot welds without destroying the tabs, which you conveniently did not show. Ugh!!!
Thanks! Needed to know how to open my similar model (with LCD screen) after it got flooded and this helped!
I accidentally damaged the crystal near the processor while soldering back the batteries. Do you happen to know the crystal specs?
Hello wondering if you could give me some advice. . I replaced the batteries on my braun syncro 7680 the same way you did but my shaver will not charge all the way. It repeatedly gives me a temp error. I then have to unplug the shaver and wait for it to cool down then try again. This process takes about 3 days before I can get a complete full charge. The batteries used are brand new. I have taken it apart numerous times and re soldered it thinking the connections could be the problem but still the same issue. any help would be appreciated. .. thanks
+Anthony Gemus Does it actually get hot? It could be that the cells you installed are not rated for the same rapid charge rate. If not, maybe the thermocouple is damaged.
+Mark Furneaux no the cells are fine because I reinstalled the old batteries and they also gave me the temp warning. It does get warm when charging but not hot
Anthony Gemus i
@@anthonyg8435 Hey, did you ever figure out the temp problem? I have the same problem on 2 different 7570 Braun shavers and you are the only person I can find that has mentioned this problem. My batteries are not getting hot but the board is. Both shavers start by charging at about 1100ma at a 50% duty cycle for exactly 10 minutes to the second. Then they switch to the same 1100ma at a 100% duty cycle and the "temp" error shows up shortly later. The only way to get the 50% duty cycle back is to remove battery power and then it does the same thing over and over again. It's driving me nuts!!!
@@nicholasceea4109 I'm afraid not I just found another used one on Ebay and has been working fine ever since
Thank you! Very clear and very helpful!
My 7526 batteries just died after at least 13 years. Any idea how to change the batteries in mine?
Joseph Dykes mine just went after 15 years. I wish they weren't soldered directly to the board. (8000 series 8595)
@@xenonram Only 15? Gee, wouldn't it be nice if it lasted 100?
Great video Mark!
There is no reason to change the batteries. On the other hand, these batteries last very little and have a poor performance. You just had to charge the
machine and use it only with the cable.
Nice tear down video...
I hear that motor is a Siemens 10,000rpm one. Anybody know?
Thanks for sharing That was very informative, And I have a Braun series 5 Nr 8595 with the display on, That is attach to The battery bank on the component side, anything else is almost The same, So IT Was very Helpful and use-full Thanks... Best Jørgen Thomsen Denmark DK
Das Video hat mir sehr geholfen vielen Dank :)
I appreciate the effort but this video only shows how to disassemble the razor, 2 or 3 mins is all this video should be and you shouldn't even mention anything about showing how to change the batteries because you didn't show that at all. I want to know tips and tricks for actually doing the battery swap, not pointing out the obvious. Show us how you removed the tabs instead of shutting the camera off, having your neighbor do the work and then bringing it back and saying there we go!
You spoke my mind! Thanks. Yeah, there was a lot of rambling going on wasting our time. Luckily, I used the Preview function to cut to the chase.
I have a shaver similar to yours, 8995. Just out of curiosity, I removed the case to look at the batteries, and clean it up, and when I put everything back together, and turned it on, the damn thing wouldn't start. LED works, blue charger light works, but no motor! Should have never watched this damn video. Arrgh. Son of a B.
+tulebox Sorry to hear that. I'm guessing the motor contacts are not aligned or are not making good contact.
+Mark Furneaux The batteries been dead for almost 2 years. I ran it with the cord plugged in. For whatever reason, it worked like that. Now, the motor part doesn't turn on. Took it apart a dozen times already. Contacts are clean. Nothing is bent or broken (except for those dead batteries). Will be replacing those soon as I get some.
+Mark Furneaux Just two questions. Are the batteries soldered on both ends? The power receptable is blocking one end, so it's hard to reach. If I had multimeter with a continuity test, should I see continuity at the ends of each battery, while they're soldered in? If there's a break in one of the batteries, then the power won't flow to the motor contact pads, correct?
+tulebox In my razer they are soldered on each end. I'm not sure what you meant by "continuity at both ends". Do you mean through the battery, implying that the battery is open circuit? That is almost impossible, and measuring a battery with a meter in continuity mode can damage the meter. It depends on the charge circuit design for whether the shaver will run without the batteries being properly connected. I don't know the circuit so I can't say.
+Mark Furneaux If possible, I would like to bypass the batteries and run it from the cord only. But, nobody seems to be able to give a good answer on this. Will replacing the battery with a wire destroy the circuitry? I suspect one or more dead batteries is shorting out the connection to the motor.
It was helpful to me. Thanks.
Thanks from Russia!
Why don't you just get a battery-powered travel razor? They're cheap and you can replace the batteries as easily as you can a flashlight. I have the larger of the two Panasonic travel razors and it shaves very nicely. You can keep a supply of Li-Ion cells and a charger and have batteries forever!
eureka! thanks for the tips.
This video could be less than 5 min without the extra commentaries that are not relevant to the repair. In addition, it is sloppy for you to replace the old battery with a standard Duracell rechargeables without knowing the capacity and voltage of the old one. If you go through the trouble of opening it up, desolder it and resolder it, the least you should do is to replace with the right new battery, not some old batteries. You can get the new battery on line to replace the old battery with exact capacity and voltage. I would not be surprised if you has to replace the battery again in a few months if the Duracell is near its life. The OEM battery are high drain battery and designed to match with the charger controller, don't try to replace it with something it is not designed for, you are only asking for trouble.
I think the NiMH battery chemistry pretty much defines the voltage. And these things don't appear to be stacked cells in a AA physical form factor. And why would the manufacturer go build their own custom batteries that just happen to be in an industry standard cell format? They can source commodity battery components, and maintain their margins.. it's not like this application is a really extreme one that requires a custom battery component. And the battery capacity for the given volume isn't going to vary all that much, either. This sounds like a great way to reuse idle NiMH batteries that are lying around, which are unlikely to find a use elsewhere in recent consumer electronic equipment.
extra voltage? put there a car battery then!
thank you!
Thanks ... very helpful. :o)
Подарите мне пожалуйста срочно надо Braun Series 5 кассета с бреющей сеткой и режущим блоком!
Good Grief man. You spent FOREVER rambling and babbling on about everything about the razor and then very little about replacing the batteries. What a waste of time.
13:56 of long-winded verbal diarhoea. The mark of a good how-to video is brevity. You could have done this in less than 5 min, sparing us a treatise on the design or what your activities were for the day! 😞
I just want to replace the batteries, not reverse engineer it! Way too long, way too much information, way too much detail. You're reading off the part number of the battery. Really?
A lot of talk virtually none of which addresses the subject line ie replacing the batteries or cells as you put it. Everything about this shaver is mentioned yet the extraction of the existing "cells" is not shown neither is the installation of the new "cells" . Somewhat a waste of 13 minutes of my time.
Blah blah blah. This video should have been 3 minutes long.
Blah blah blah. Your comment should not have been.
Blah blah blah... Some idiots are incapable to create anything, but always ready to shit around.