ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2021
- In this video I start building my homemade lathe
The complete Playlist: • Homemade Lathe
The Start (Part 1): • Homemade Metal Lathe #1
Bilding the Base & Motor Mount (Part 2): • Homemade Metal Lathe #...
Assamble & Painting (Part 3): • Homemade Metal Lathe #...
Final Assamble & Test (Part 4): • Homemade Lathe #4 | In...
Building the Tailstock (Part 5): • Homemade Lathe #5 | Bu...
Finish & Test the Tailstock (Part 6): • Homemade Lathe #6 | Fi...
Thank You for Watching :D - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
If you want to support me, you can use this Amazon link for your normal shopping: amzn.to/3QWp2yj
you don't pay more, but I get a small commission for every purchase. Thanks :D
I've watched a few of these lathe builds now, and this is one of my favourite! Nobody seems to put links in their description for online purchase of components.. Surely there must be some? I'm based in Australia, so I'll probably have to find my own source, but a list would be greatly helpful to save waiting on shipping.. Nice build Dexter!!
Terrific work!!!
Będę budował swoją tokarkę, oglądam z ciekawością, Pozdrawiam z Polski.
You have more skills than most people. 😂 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
good job bro👍👍🛠
Good work bro
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
thanks :D
Awesome video series. What kind of tolerances do you get with ways made with linear rails and bearing blocks? It seems like a good choice for something like a CNC laser or plasma cutter, but can they bear the lateral stresses of a metal lathe?
Thank you for starting to add the English subtitles with this video. I've watched most of your lathe build videos and have enjoyed them immensely!
I've gone back and tried to watch some of your earlier builds but am handicapped by the fact that I don't speak German, so have only a vague idea of what you were doing.
I've watched most of your Homemade Lathe series and have been impressed by some of the unique design ideas, like #9 | Mechanical Power-Feed.
If you don't mind a question/suggestion on your basic design(?), how rigid has the the steel girder proved to be as a lathe bed?
...I've watched several lathe build series but so far, every one of them has used an I-beam, girder, or some other "open" design for the bed. These all have the advantage of a relatively flat surface on which to build. On the other hand, they all suffer from a lack of tortional rigidity and tend to have a lot of vibration and chatter. A girder like yours, welded to a large diameter pipe section (with the pipe fitted inside the girder so they only touch at the edges) would give great rigidity and a flat surface for mounting.
Retrofitting a pipe to what you already have would be difficult...
However, another good option would be to weld a solid plate to the bottom of the girder (with some round access holes wherever they're needed). This, along with the end plates you welded on at the beginning, would create an enclosed box structure that would also be much more rigid than an open bottom.
Anyway, thank you for sharing your creations with us.
Doug
Hello Doug
Thank you for your comment.
Thanks for your praise :)
I know most people build a lathe out of an I Beam. However, these will not be precise either.
I wanted to have a lathe bed that was flat to at least 1/10th.
As for the stability of the steel beam, I haven't had any problems with lack of stability
By the way, my backup plan was to turn the whole steel beam upside down and fill it with concrete and rebar. Concrete is cheap and it stiffens the whole thing and also adds a lot of mass, which is always good for reducing vibration.
But I never needed it. The only weak spots on my lathe are the front and back plates of the tailstock. these bend a bit through when drilling
Greetings from Germany
Robin
@@dexter1448 Hi Robin and Doug,
I'm not sure how far down the rabbit hole you two have been in research, but an even better stiffening material that is also easy to work with as a a hobbyist, is epoxy granite. It's approximately 85-90% Granite pebbles by weight and 10-15% epoxy by weight. It has excellent strength and damping characteristics, and it actually exceeds cast iron in pretty much all critical metrics. Plus it can be formed, and used as a reinforcing damping material as well. Hope this helps, a d it looks like you've got a great machine Robin!
I watched many videos related about lathe machine but it is best
thank you very much i appreciate that!
0:16 That's an interesting idea for correcting the surface, nice jig!
Hello, I really like your videos.
I have the typical Chinese mini lathe, which is not very rigid and I am thinking of building a lathe like yours.
I was wondering how thick the x-axis and z-axis steel plates are, as well as the thickness of the head plates.
Do you think the whole set is rigid enough? Do the guide bearings hold up well over time and use?
Regards
Very nice construction, you've made a good job !
What are the dimensions of the UPN steel ?
I was wondering why you wouldn't use dowel pins (maybe even tapered?) for fine adjustment of your linear guides? I mean, there's always some clearance on the bolt thru hole and the guides can skew eventually. What I'm trying to say, they will remain parallel to each other (the carriage will force that) but they won't be true to the lathe bed. Judging by the scale, I think we're looking at the length of, say, 1200 mm. Assuming you're using M10 bolts and have bolt thru hole clearance of 0.5 mm for close fit, then, ultimately, the tailstock end may move 0.25 mm "to the right", while the headstock end would move 0.25 mm "to the left" from the nominal center. This could skew the guides by about 1 minute and 26 seconds of an angle in relation to the lathe bed and to the headstock (and, consequently, to the chuck axis).
Optionally, you could open guide mounting holes with a reamer to a fit size and use shoulder screws (could require making shallow recesses in the bed, as I don't think you can shoulder screws with the shoulder short enough).
Sorry for the winded post, just wondering on how do you prevent shifting and skewing guides/toolpost in relation to the chuck axis.
Awesome build dude :) was a bit worried about burning that glue, was it cyanoacrylate glue if so would it not give off cyanide gas? i just checked and yes it does , but it is small amount and you were outside :P
Have you considered offering a plan of how to build this lathe? I would be willing to pay for it.
woher hast du die kugelumaufspindel gekauft?
This video is kinda defeating because I just spent 4 hours trying to make a wood square.
What kind of drill bit is that? Where are you purchasing these precut pieces? A kit?
Bonjour je viens de regarder la construction de votre tour ou.avez vous trouver les élément acier pour le support de bras de mandrin.merci d avance pour les liens
I've watched all 9 video's in this lathe series (outstanding BTW) but don't see where/when you built the tool rest. Did I miss it somewhere?
Thanks 😄
No you dont miss it.
Sorry I made the Tool Post bevor ive started to build the Lathe. I didnt film the build of it.
But as you might think this is not a big sience to build one...
Hi dexter what size liniar rails are you using for the lathe, SBR20 or SBR25 ? also do you have a link to buy them cheap :)
Im using SBR20! Link in the Video description! (In German: "Linearschienen & Schlitten")
Hello. Really nice job and greate lathe machine. What kind of U profile (dimensions) you use for lathe machine body? Thank you
The Profile is 200mm wide and 75mm high
I dont know the complete length at this moment, but the linear rails are about 850mm
@7:36 What program did you use to make the paper template for the hole spacing
Fusion360
Отчего напровляющие?
Thank you, Inspirational, are the linear bars made of style or made of ammonium?
Hardened Steel
@@dexter1448 شكرا
Чи є погрішність (люфти) на патроні передньої бабки токарного станка. Якщо є, то скільки? Колись планував зробити собі саморобний але купив вже готовий.
5/100mm rundlauf genauikeit...
@@dexter1448 якщо я правильно зрозумів то 5 соток, тобто 5 частин від 100 (1мм)?
Якщо так, то це добрий результат для саморобного станка.
@@user-xk6lc3tk7i ja 0,05mm
Cuales son las medidas
Salut , îmi place mult clipul tau și l am urmărit de multe ori. Vreau și eu să îmi construiesc un strung asemănător după proiectul tau. Daca ești amabil mă poți ajuta și pe mine cu câteva informații. Distanta intre ghidaje. Lungimea șasiului și de ce criterii trebuie sa țin cont atunci când încep construcția strungului. Mulțumesc. Și felicitări ești foarte priceput.
wie kannst du das so mit der bandsäge sägen ? bei mir reißen so immer zähne raus (hab die gleiche)
Hatte das auch, beim beiliegendem Güde Sägeband, habe dann andere Gekauft. Seit dem ist nicht ein Zahn ausgerissen :)
@@dexter1448 ok
Hi dexter.
Kannst du mal ein video zu deinem planschleifer machen würde das Gerät nachbauen und kannst du auch den namen der Messuhr sagen das wäre mega. 😁😁👋
hi! whats the rail diameter??? thanx!
20mm
Made in Deutchland...
Jawohl 😁
Around the 0:30 Minute mark, is that a large surface plate or just the top of a table saw?
No, it's the top of a large milling table for wood
@@dexter1448 Interesting. How long did you cut your channel? I managed to find one at the scrap yard thats a bit longer than 700mm (730 to be exact). I have access to a machine shop so Im gonna see how much it will cost for them to blanchard ground just the top. Blanchard grinders are basically these HUGE surface grinders and they can grind large pieces to within 0.001" (0.0254mm). I think it should be good enough since the linear rails are going on top.
@@Overclocked2300 mine is about 1200mm long! The linear Rails are 850mm long
@@Overclocked2300 but please think about it: the hight accuracy of the linear rails isnt very important!
It doesnt effekt the acuraccy of the diameter of the parts you turn!
Please use gloves for welding, skin cancer is no joke
Je vais devoir en fabriquer un aussi car je suis employé a mgt maroeuil mais il y a plus de personnel que de machine 😂😂😂😂