Hi and thanks for sharing. I think you'll find that 36 cutting teeth on a 72 drive link chain is full comp. My full comp chains are 81 drive links and 40 cutting teeth so a ratio of about 2:1 is full comp/house. Cheers sincerely d
Search for Oregon 19HX. It's the chamfer chisel version of their harvester chain and they list some of its benefits over their 18HX, micro chisel chain. Might give you some more info on the differences of its design
Was wondering why the bartip stopped turning, didn't pinch the bar ! I dunked it in diesel sprayed some 3p7 on n with a bit of mobilisation I got it to work again!
There's an Archer brand chain that some service shops in northern and western Europe here have brought in from Australia, mostly the semi-chisel bulk rolls of chain which they customise down to whatever bar length you ask for. This was in fact my first foray into lower profile and semi-chisel chains ever. And the experience using semi-chisel Archer on longer bars in the various woods we have here has been good (I like that my semi chisel Archer Australian chain lasts me longer over numerous tank re-fills, where my full cisel Husky chains never had in the past).
That's a round about way to explain that Australia is capable of making chain that is well good enough to deploy anywhere. Don't get me wrong though, if I meet a harder piece of timber that's leaning in the wrong way, and I need to use the big saw to move chips really well. For me I'm always going for a taller, full chisel in 3/8. Even if I have to bring extra saws with additional chain on those additional saws, simply because my full chisel won't last the entire project. There are certain jobs though,, where not to go semi chisel,just seems silly. Poplar trunks being an example, where you know you can saw softer timber and keep going longer just grand, by using the Archer chain etc.
That's interesting Archer may be a Australia company but am sure the chain comes from china like the Hurricane chain here in Australia. Only one dealer sells Hurricane chain Joho and johno. It may not be as good as Stihl but at less than half price its a great price and works well.
Stringy is ok to cut but it can jam nose sprockets. Hard nose bars are a good idea if you cut a lot of it. Palm trees are horrific on saws. Clamshell saws last a lot longer with the wet, acidic, fibrous crap from them because it eats magnesium cases. Hate it, never again
So an old lady asked me to drop a couple of palm trees looming over her house and garden beds. She wanted them dropped straight down along the side of her brick garden beds, a path about one pace wide and tree paces from the roofline. Yeah, they were dead too and rotten as well. I only had the big Mac but was game. Dumb and never having played with palm before, I whacked the blade in to score the top of the cut on the dropside. At full blast she grabbed that sandfilled and rotten trunk like a hungry dog grabbing a porkchop. It whipped my arms around with it until I was staring at a complete cut right around the trunk and the tree was sitting on the blade. She jammed at that point. There is a heck of a lot of weight in a water filled one and a half foot thick palmtree about twenty five feet tall. I let the saw go and leaned all of my fat guts right up to help push the tree down where we all wanted it to go. The old lady and her neighbour and her son-in-law and a gaggle of kids were watching from the yard. At which point I was thinking of my lack of insurance should this thing take out the half of the roof line, fascias and all of the guttering. To my own amazement and subsiding of my developing erection, that tree toppled slow, slow and square to flop down with a slip,slop,slap as tidily as a finger in a glove, right along the length of that garden path. OK, the top whipped sideways and dislodged the top corner bricks on the very far end. I sat down a moment, to accept applause. That sweet old lad y who had asked me to 'See if I could do her palmtree", then proceeded to berate me and demand that I replace those bricks. The moment passed with all thinking that I was a semi-skilled cutter but my underwear needed changing at smoko, or discarding to be buried. Took the next palm tree at idle speed and got out of there with fifty in my pocket. Lesson learned I thought until a little while ago I got stuck into a big old Royal Palm that I just couldn't get the chainsaw to bite properly only to find I had ruined a brand new chain on cutting halfway through a brick paver hidden in the date palm also growing up alongside that palm trunk. All for love of the job too as usual.
Mr. Janka invented the method/scale in the USA, modifying the existing Brinell method. He was born in Austria, his surname sounds of course Slavic (pron. Yanka). Here more used and official is the Brinell method, which is the European and international standard. th-cam.com/video/Rb3OMmuYMqE/w-d-xo.html When you say high wood moisture content of 25%, you probably meant moisture content above fibre saturation. Normally 25%, 50% or even 100% (green/ovendry basis) would be nothing unusual for fresh wood. That "Cutting Wet Wood?" text you showed in the video refers to "Micro Chisel", not "Chamfer Chisel". Oregon's Micro Chisel was introduced in 1971 and had an even smaller radius of transition than the cutter they referred to as a semi chisel. Examples of chains in Oregon's contemporary range, described by them as Micro Chisel, are 20/21/22 BPX (.325). Chamfer Chisel was invented by Atkins/Borg-Warner in the early 1950s. Some Stihl Rapid Micro chains can be classified as Chamfer Chisel. Stihl, like many others and us on a daily basis, does not use such terminology and divides chains into Chipper (Standard), Semi Chisel (Micro), Chisel (Super). th-cam.com/video/b5tDpUl21BY/w-d-xo.html If that Stihl Rapid Super 3/8 1.6mm chain is indeed a skip chain, someone must have packed it in the wrong box. The number there is 3621 (Rapid Super no skip) and should be 3676. Of course, Joseph B. Cox did not invent chisel chain, as this was the earliest grooving chain introduced for use by Atkins on their forestry machines in 1943 and gradually refined over the following years. Oregon only introduced the chisel chain to the market in 1953 after signing an agreement with Atkins/Borg-Warner, because before that they probably feared a lawsuit for infringing Hassler's patent.
Great breakdown without a bunch of chest thumping and self aggrandizement! Just the facts..refreshing, concise and real.
Thanks for your comments
Interesting about the non labelling on the skip chain boxes -- on this side of the pond Stihl puts RSF on boxes
They made that chain up for me maybe wasn't the correct box
@@ChainsawUsers that would make more sense than guessing if you have a skip chain or not....
Hi and thanks for sharing.
I think you'll find that 36 cutting teeth on a 72 drive link chain is full comp. My full comp chains are 81 drive links and 40 cutting teeth so a ratio of about 2:1 is full comp/house.
Cheers
sincerely
d
Thanks for the info!
Search for Oregon 19HX. It's the chamfer chisel version of their harvester chain and they list some of its benefits over their 18HX, micro chisel chain. Might give you some more info on the differences of its design
Ok thanks will do
Was wondering why the bartip stopped turning, didn't pinch the bar ! I dunked it in diesel sprayed some 3p7 on n with a bit of mobilisation I got it to work again!
Mainly happening In wet wood
There's an Archer brand chain that some service shops in northern and western Europe here have brought in from Australia, mostly the semi-chisel bulk rolls of chain which they customise down to whatever bar length you ask for. This was in fact my first foray into lower profile and semi-chisel chains ever. And the experience using semi-chisel Archer on longer bars in the various woods we have here has been good (I like that my semi chisel Archer Australian chain lasts me longer over numerous tank re-fills, where my full cisel Husky chains never had in the past).
That's a round about way to explain that Australia is capable of making chain that is well good enough to deploy anywhere. Don't get me wrong though, if I meet a harder piece of timber that's leaning in the wrong way, and I need to use the big saw to move chips really well. For me I'm always going for a taller, full chisel in 3/8. Even if I have to bring extra saws with additional chain on those additional saws, simply because my full chisel won't last the entire project. There are certain jobs though,, where not to go semi chisel,just seems silly. Poplar trunks being an example, where you know you can saw softer timber and keep going longer just grand, by using the Archer chain etc.
Thanks for that information I may look into that.
I really am a fan of full chisel especially Hexa
That's interesting Archer may be a Australia company but am sure the chain comes from china like the Hurricane chain here in Australia.
Only one dealer sells Hurricane chain Joho and johno. It may not be as good as Stihl but at less than half price its a great price and works well.
I will see what information I can find on Archer
Felling use full chisel, on the landing use semi chisel. Why? Usually no dirt when felling, plenty of dirt on the landing
Yes agree
Palm trees and stringy bark are 2 things I am happy to not have to cut.
Yes been there done that lol
@@ChainsawUsers haha.
Stringy is ok to cut but it can jam nose sprockets. Hard nose bars are a good idea if you cut a lot of it.
Palm trees are horrific on saws. Clamshell saws last a lot longer with the wet, acidic, fibrous crap from them because it eats magnesium cases. Hate it, never again
@@SawChainTheories In SW Qld we are free of those nasties.
So an old lady asked me to drop a couple of palm trees looming over her house and garden beds. She wanted them dropped straight down along the side of her brick garden beds, a path about one pace wide and tree paces from the roofline. Yeah, they were dead too and rotten as well. I only had the big Mac but was game. Dumb and never having played with palm before, I whacked the blade in to score the top of the cut on the dropside. At full blast she grabbed that sandfilled and rotten trunk like a hungry dog grabbing a porkchop. It whipped my arms around with it until I was staring at a complete cut right around the trunk and the tree was sitting on the blade. She jammed at that point. There is a heck of a lot of weight in a water filled one and a half foot thick palmtree about twenty five feet tall.
I let the saw go and leaned all of my fat guts right up to help push the tree down where we all wanted it to go. The old lady and her neighbour and her son-in-law and a gaggle of kids were watching from the yard. At which point I was thinking of my lack of insurance should this thing take out the half of the roof line, fascias and all of the guttering. To my own amazement and subsiding of my developing erection, that tree toppled slow, slow and square to flop down with a slip,slop,slap as tidily as a finger in a glove, right along the length of that garden path. OK, the top whipped sideways and dislodged the top corner bricks on the very far end. I sat down a moment, to accept applause. That sweet old lad y who had asked me to 'See if I could do her palmtree", then proceeded to berate me and demand that I replace those bricks. The moment passed with all thinking that I was a semi-skilled cutter but my underwear needed changing at smoko, or discarding to be buried. Took the next palm tree at idle speed and got out of there with fifty in my pocket. Lesson learned I thought until a little while ago I got stuck into a big old Royal Palm that I just couldn't get the chainsaw to bite properly only to find I had ruined a brand new chain on cutting halfway through a brick paver hidden in the date palm also growing up alongside that palm trunk. All for love of the job too as usual.
No style of chsin is better you just have to know when and how to use them appropriately.
Mr. Janka invented the method/scale in the USA, modifying the existing Brinell method. He was born in Austria, his surname sounds of course Slavic (pron. Yanka).
Here more used and official is the Brinell method, which is the European and international standard.
th-cam.com/video/Rb3OMmuYMqE/w-d-xo.html
When you say high wood moisture content of 25%, you probably meant moisture content above fibre saturation. Normally 25%, 50% or even 100% (green/ovendry basis) would be nothing unusual for fresh wood.
That "Cutting Wet Wood?" text you showed in the video refers to "Micro Chisel", not "Chamfer Chisel". Oregon's Micro Chisel was introduced in 1971 and had an even smaller radius of transition than the cutter they referred to as a semi chisel.
Examples of chains in Oregon's contemporary range, described by them as Micro Chisel, are 20/21/22 BPX (.325).
Chamfer Chisel was invented by Atkins/Borg-Warner in the early 1950s.
Some Stihl Rapid Micro chains can be classified as Chamfer Chisel. Stihl, like many others and us on a daily basis, does not use such terminology and divides chains into Chipper (Standard), Semi Chisel (Micro), Chisel (Super).
th-cam.com/video/b5tDpUl21BY/w-d-xo.html
If that Stihl Rapid Super 3/8 1.6mm chain is indeed a skip chain, someone must have packed it in the wrong box. The number there is 3621 (Rapid Super no skip) and should be 3676.
Of course, Joseph B. Cox did not invent chisel chain, as this was the earliest grooving chain introduced for use by Atkins on their forestry machines in 1943 and gradually refined over the following years.
Oregon only introduced the chisel chain to the market in 1953 after signing an agreement with Atkins/Borg-Warner, because before that they probably feared a lawsuit for infringing Hassler's patent.
Yes a few errors I thought we invented that Janka scale. You seriously it correct again thanks
I just found Information on Atkins a blast from the past you are a walking encyclopaedia lol
Try cutting an old yucca
Did I jam up the bar nose ?