3D printed AIRPLANE - Messerschmitt Bf 109 || PART 1 - Tuning print settings
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2018
- First part of my spring project: I'll 3D print the Messerschmitt Bf 109 RC model from 3DLabPrint. In the first I show you how I tuned the print settings for maximum strength.
I'll be printing the whole model in the next videos on my CR-10S using CURA as a slicer.
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Love the scientific approach! Really looking forward to the next part. Keep up the great work!
Once again, I love your approach! I look forward to watching the detailed process of selecting temperatures, fan settings, etc.
I really enjoy and appreciate your scientific and methodical approach to problem solving. Looking forward to the rest of this series.
Fantastic videos. It's awesome how you try to make the videos as relevant as possible to your viewers.
Hi CNC
It's an exciting project you're up to. I am even a flight enthusiast.
I will follow your problem solutions with excitement :)
Nice thing you started this serie now, I just ordered the files myself and will be making a BF109 F4.
I just need to wait for the new hot end of my printer to get here.
Again : Good work ! Thanks a lot for sharing !
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Hope next video is as exciting as this video 👍
I just printed a 3DLabPrint Zivko Edge. Very impressive model. Printed it on a MK3 and all together it took me about 40 hours of print time. They even included Simplify3D factory files for a Prusa MK2, that all together gave good hints on what settings to use with the MK3. So all in all I am pretty happy with that bird. Thumps up for 3DLabPrint for their work.
Messerschmitt what an awesome plane nice project :)
Спасибо. Ваши видео исключительно информативны.
Thanks for testing this.
I found you unit (N/g) much more better, than the last one.
Thank you for using a CR-10S! I'd love to be able to pick up a genuine Prusa i3 MK3 down the road, but for now I have what I have and I'm very happy that I can follow some of your tips when doing this project latter.
Hi Stefan! Your videos are great!
For the extrusion multiplier you can allways mark a predefined length from your print head on the filament and then extrude the same length via prontrrface or a similar programm. After that meassure again and divide predefined value with given value -> extrusion multiplier.
I've printed three of these, two for flying and one painted model. Used a Anet A2, but my mk3 is on the way and can't wait to try it on that. I used ca glue with activator, it worked great.
Thanks this reinforces my decision to by the Creality CR-10s printer..for the settings you have worked out for printing RC planes etc in Cura......Laurie
Thanks for sharing!
I just want to say thank you for helping me solve my ME109 slicing issue in Cura, as it would not render/slice the internal geometry leaving it looking more like "Spiralize outer contour". Keep up the good work by producing more good value content.
Your videography is always top notch! Great build I'm excited to see the results, like you I fly quads. I would think aerodynamics stopping air infiltration would be paramount, if it crashes it's done for no matter what!
For glue - there are many specialised glues for different plastics. great start is to look at forums for Revell (and similar) models. Those glues for the right material are really pretty much the best you can get.
Gute Arbeit!
I just had to resubscribe, wtf. I'm working on a few of these places too, so glad to see you have a video like this. Please do more! Wiring on an eclipson and 4x 3dlabprint warbirds
You're too good Stefan
Hello Stephan. Thanks for this great video. I bought the P-38 last year, however I haven't printed it yet because my printer is not optimized yet and I question just how good is CA glue on PLA. I am thankful for your videos!
So far, using a soldering iron for PLA worked for me better than other ways.
One thing you might want to consider when using CA glue is to get the rubber ice stuff I'm not sure if it's available in clear it might only be available in Black but because it's got rubber mixed in with it it's not quite as brittle a normal CA it has a tiny bit of give you can't feel the give but you'll notice it on impact it doesn't break as easily
I have heard about Tangit (Henkel dedicated PVC glue). The recommendation came from an plastic engineer. I already used it successfully to glue ABS against PVC-U.
i printed the Spitfire on my Prusa MK2 using the recommended settings and glued it using a cheap super glue which i bought at 1$ for a 10ml bottle (Kind of Fevi Kwik). It worked quite well and even after the crash the parts didn't break from the joint but layer lines and other parts!!
Worked great but crashed it cause i didn't know how to fly a RC Plane and it was my first time!
If you could do a video on wiping and coasting, that would be so useful, I'm so tired of blobs and holes from retractions and layer changes! :D
Awesome stuff :) I’d be curious to see wing structures and center of gravity. I’ve lost a skywalker about 10years algo, due to a broken wing. Would this happen to the 109? 🙂
I would go for the best print quality and spray paint a laquer on it after to improve strength. You could even anneal the pieces in the oven after to get even better strength.
Annealing is going to ruin such thin parts. Internal stresses will bend the surfaces when the temperature exceeds glass transition temperature of PLA.
3D printed plane
also, Laquer paint will not add strength, just weight.
Michael Rinkle Just add larger motor and battery, weight should NOT be an issue with coatings.
@@scottfirman That will increase the wing loading, which will increase the stall speed, force landings at a higher speed and thus increase the risk of damage. And as Rinkle pointed out, lacquer paint will not ad one drop of strength. It is a brittle coating , used primarily on wood furniture to achieve a high gloss finish.
Nice video. Could you share your Cura profile and testing parts STL files ? Thanks in advance !!!
Would you test PLA welding against glueing?
Have not personally had much luck with gluing PLA with acetone but I've heard ethyl acetate works better. Would be interested in seeing a comparison.
Hey! Weld inside (not visible) joints with 3D printer pen? Thx.
You should consider getting one of the improved fan shroud models off thingiverse. Its a very common upgrade and you may see some major improvements.
I'm using a .6 nozzel instead of .4 and the quality and strength were much better. I bought the messerschmitt too but I'm working on the focke wulf right now. I'm also going to try using hips as recommended by eclipson 3d printed planes. Have you tried hips filament for planes? Strength tests? Thanks
Hey I need some help ,I am getting gaps when the outside shell starts ,I am on the tevotornado with cr10 nozzle ,any advice on how to fix this?
I would definitely print it in poly carbonate or similar so you can acetone weld and is very crash resistant, pla is probable the least suited material because it also plasticity deforms under constant strain and is super susceptible to shattering on a crash, and you cannot acetone weld.
@CNC Kitchen, from my PLA gluing experiences, 2component Epoxy works best
Would you please share stl for that test print thing where you tune print settings? Thanks
For any other MK2 owners who were surprised to hear they had a free plane: The g-code and instructions are included with the 1.7.5 driver.
You see the mess you got?? I get this all the time!!
I think you'll see a lot of shear stress in planes like this, does your testing account for shear? Your orientation might also wanna account for shear as well.
Anybody else having bed adhesion when printing wings? On my prusa mk3s and the PEI bed, getting warping on only the wing section
Nice i too got an Multiplex Easy Star that i bought for learning how to fly. Do you have also made any mods on your Easy Star?
Just a brushless motor and ailerons but I purchased mine 10 years ago 😄
Great video. What are your thoughts on printing with ABS?
Might be challenging for these models. PETG and PLA is a better choice there.
What's the smallest printer you can get this model to print on ie what are the measurements of the largest parts. I've been wanting to do one of these but don't wanna fork out 20 ish bucks on a model I can't print
200x200x200 is recommended, some can even be printed on smaller beds.
I wouldn’t worry to much about getting the maximum strength as the only time the plane will be subjected to loads which could result in failure will be during a crash, in which case it’s probably going to break regardless. Go print quality.
If it's anything like the dynamics of large aircraft you'll put considerable load on the wings and other flying surfaces if you pull hard maneuvers, and you'll hammer the landing gear and body pretty hard if you land badly. (that is, a hard landing - not a crash in which you may flip or hit wingtips against the ground.)
Flying models are subject to roughly the same physics as full size aircraft, so it stands to reason that they'd be subject to similar forces.
(however, the volume to cross section laws that govern scaling up or down objects suggest any scaled down model will be disproportionately strong compared to the full size equivalent - it is of course typically made of weaker materials though.)
Hello Stefan! I print the BF109-H and have a problem with cura. One Part is slicing perfect and print very well. But when i add a second Part in Cura, the complete inner strukture wont be sliced on both objects. You have any idea, how to solve the Problem?
Has anyone ever tried to print it with LW filament which is an option these days. Maybe a good portion of 25gramm glass filament laminated on the crosssection, leading edges and maybe in the region where the fuselage is attached to the Motormount.
You can glue together pla or petg with dichlormethanol, but this stuff produces very toxic fumes and is a little bit dangerous. As i know acetone doesn't work very well.
Stefan , I love the print you have of the rocket in your workshop. Does it have a name/artist , I would love to get a copy :)
Purchased it here : www.juniqe.com/night-launch-premium-poster-portrait-405263.html
Hi, I have purchased a Creality Ender 3 and 3DLabprint software. I do not know or can not import Messerschmitt BF-109 H / L version from # Downloaded files "to 3DLabprint program. What do I do wrong? I click" Import "and" Downloaded files "opens. I click on the right wing and click on "Open". But there is nothing in the box for import. In the box below "FFF". Can anyone here help me and say what I am doing wrong? I have asked 3DLabprint but they have no service so I try here.
Wow
Note that they have “weight”specifications that UR servings need to accommodate.
Should be settings
Hy have you the cura or simplify3d setting for this plane please
The simplify3D profiles and factory files are included in the model file download.
CA glue would be better but that's only because part my showerhead design failed when I used epoxy, I still don't fully understand why, but the CA glue has held up for 12months so far. I'd also consider looking at using Poly Cement.
It makes sense that you need higher extrution rates, because the CR-10 is known for under extruding. Try measure the length of filament used, and you will understand my clame. So higher temperatur makes it easier for the extruder motor to run. I upgraded my printer with this setup, and got correct extrution lengths. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1078763
Is it possible to add FPV camera to this planes ?
I don't see why not...
Hi
I have Tevo Tornado
I put glass because the bed bubbles
The glass printed good but now all my prints don’t stick and come apart!
What am I doing wrong?
Osamah Abu Ali check your extruder nozzle clearance withe everything up to print temp , your build plate could be bowing /warping giving you too much gap between the nozzle tip and build plate
I use paper of the leveling / clearance.
The layer height is 0.2
I'm using www.repetier.com
Osamah Abu Ali if your clearance is the same as before when it printed properly it could be under extruding , possibly a nozzle blockage , dirty extruder grip roller or filament binding .
Is the first layer squishing down on the build plate or just sitting on top ?
There are many little things that can go wrong and the only way to find out what has gone wrong is to methodically check over the printer .
Correct Nozzle clearance and bed level when hot as the clearance will change as it heats up:
Clean bed ? Are you using an adhesive enhancer like hairspray or glue ?
Clean nozzle :
Check extruder calibration and drive roller for clogging :
Check the filament feeds freely :
Correct nozzle and bed temps :
Have you changed filament recently ? Maybe the problem started with a new roll ?
Double check your slicer settings , your travel speed for the first layers may be too fast or have you changed anything on your printer settings on the printer controller ? Some printers allow you to store offsets and settings directly on the printer controller - see if the menu has a restore defaults or similar .
I never liked repetier - too much stuff in it to go wrong , i had a lot of trouble with getting it to work properly and i went back to cura . If i ever change slicers i will be buying simplify 3d .
I can send you video..
i have a picture
Can someone please provide cura 3,4,1 settings, I've spent three days and a kg of filament trying to reduce stringing with no improvement
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/Ztygn--BsjI/w-d-xo.html
You should find the settings there.
I Love You!
Tbh from my sample size of 1, the prusa is more popular ;)
Try weldon 16
Pretty cool, though i've gotta say i despise that wing design, not absolutely everything has to be 3d printed! Just print only the ribs and use carbon fiber rods for the spars and cover it all with some vinyl or something.
I agree, but still this shows what 3D printing is capable of.
Epoxy and carbon fiber, I agree.
I am happy to sponsor u CNC kitchen
can u give a shoutout
3dprint.com/194667/youngest-person-3d-printer-india/
did you complete the plane?
Yes, and it flies great. Video's gonna be out probably next week.
Looking for a good deal on a new 3D printer and want to support the channel? Take a look at the affiliate links below and in the description:
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Wondering wo ist Part Zwei?
Part 2: th-cam.com/video/JSff8OMRHtw/w-d-xo.html
Part 3: th-cam.com/video/Ztygn--BsjI/w-d-xo.html
S#!% electronics -> do this ->
M303 E0 S245 C8
then save values with command or correct them in FW
also instead of optimizing retraction, combining, wipe and cousting -> use Linear Advance (turn off wipe, combining and cousting, reduce retraction lenght)
Good ideas! Unfortunately that's not a PID problem. The 5V rail on the CR-10s board is noisy which is causing these fluctuations.
I'd love to use linear advance but that would require updating the firmware.
CNC Kitchen Linear Advance fixes most of issues your prints have in the video.
You can flash the firmware fairly easy (there alot of guides) with an arduino or raspberry. (*if your CR10s doesnt have an Bootloader installed already, mine CR10 didn't).
There is also an example file specially made for the CR10 in Marlin so you don't need to fiddle around with most of the code.
calibration of linear advance is a one minute job and it's totally worth it.
It replaces wiping, combing, coasting and you can reduce retractionlenght as well. Improving print and layer quality and consistency.
Also you could do a video about it to show of the result. If you need help I'm from munich
Gday mate, Im thinking in the same way and developing a model. Let me know if interested.
I would go to the good print quality, because If you crash, it'ill die in every strength. (Also wenn du abstürzt, dann geht es sowieso kaputt...)
3d pen welding
Don't have one unfortunately. I also don't know if it would work on these thin shells.
Good old German plane....
Nice hair..instant noodle..meggi mie..
The amount of armchair experts who feel left out and desperately need to correct his decisions in the comments hahahhaha Why aren't you posting your own scientific approached expert videos, instead of whining about his choices? "Woulda coulda shoulda Trolls" lol
Nice work CNC Kitchen
Why do you copy _GreatScott!_ 's sign-off at the end of your video's? You couldn't come up with something original? It's identical.
That's just how us germans end our videos. Deal with it. Besides, the "Stay creative" part is missing so the endings are similar at best but definately not identical :P
Porcaria
Wtf. These people are disgustingly overpriced! Charging $60 for some stl files! In AUD it would be about $90.
I could buy half a plane for that...These people are ripping u off..honestly, pretty disgusting prices.
You really pandered for free models?
That's pretty cheap.
fare play to the dude, he promoted the site and spent time and effort in helping others, if you worked out his hourly rate and costs he's prob way below min wage for now, unless he gets a ton more hits
Hi Cnc,
will the cura profile be available for download? thanks in advance
Of course!
I just finished the spitfire, and could not use cura ...what setting do you use so that cura slices the inner structure? The wings were being sliced only on the outside surface, the only slicer that worked was mattercontrol. Great video by the way. I used epoxy to glue mine, it is stronger than the glue on the instructions but is more difficult to use and more expensive.