Thanks for the Vid. I have a 2004 Mazda 6s with a 3.0 boasting 122, 567 miles on her. Had to change those plugs out and your Vid gave me just the right tips to make the job around 50% easier. (Forgot to mention I did the whole 9 yards while I was under there. Plugs, Coils, intake gaskets also found several potential vacuum leaks and PCV all fixed/replaced)
Take off the engine cover. Take off the air intake box and tube and unclip the hose towards the throttle body end. Unclip the wires clipped to the intake/plenum bracket. (they run across the front. you do this to pull the wires away to make more room for when you pull the intake/plenum off) Take off the 3 hose from the back of the intake/plenum. Unclip the wires to the throttle body. There are 2-3 hoses that need to be taken off the throttle body. Unbolt the 3 bolts on the EGR bracket that bolt the EGR valve to the intake/plenum. Undo 8 bolts from the intake manifold/plenum. The throttle body will come off with the intake/plenum. When you pull the intake/plenum off you have to lift up and pull to the left. You'll have to get the EGR tube out of the intake hole on the right. (this is standing with your legs/knees to the front bumper) This whole thing is actually very easy to do. It just involves taking off/unhooking excess things. Get the intake/plenum gaskets a head of time in case you need to replace them. It will help you have more room to work if you take the battery out, especially getting to the hoses on the throttle body. I don't think I forgot anything. I have done this procedure 3 times. Something also to consider while you're involved in all of this, look up how to mod the EGR tube. It's worth a look.
Thanks for the video! Whoever was working at Mazda in 2004 and designed this setup really hated the home DIY mechanic. Wish me luck. Hope I dont break one of the 10 wires and hoses I have to disconnect...
Warning! Warning! Warning! If you use Fel-Pro Plenum gasket set MS96252 and follow the torque specs here you will crack your plenum. I learned the hard way. The gaskets are oversized and do not allow the plenum to sit flush on the intake. These are the only gaskets I was able to find apart from going to a dealer. I would suggest to only torque the plenum to 35in/lbs when using these gaskets. They may be good gaskets, but there is no information in the set about torquing them any differently. Also, it would be nice to have mentioned that one of the hoses on the throttle body would spew coolant everywhere when it is removed.
Thank you so much for posting this! My car started misfiring in cylinder 1 late on a saturday night, turned out the plug was heavily fouled. I decided to go ahead and replace all the plugs and coils anyway as I had just hit 100k miles. This video was my primary resource for getting the job done myself on a sunday when no dealers or mechanics were open. It seems like a big job but really wasn't, the most difficult part was making sure I had everything taken apart properly without removing more than I needed to. Replacing the plugs and coils and getting everything put back together was trivial by comparison. I also had to deal with the spark gap confusion, despite using NGK iridium plugs I decided to go with the owner manual figure of 0.051-0.057 ( I gapped mine at 0.052) since the plugs that came out of it were gapped around 0.055ish, although those were Motorcraft platinums. Running fine so far.
@@haydenevans7131 Funny you mention that, a few days after writing that comment I started getting a misfire again, and a couple minutes later suddenly an awful knock began. Limped to the shop and turns out the ground electrode on one of the plugs broke off inside the cylinder. Managed to get it removed and replaced all the NGKs with Motorcrafts. Runs fine since then, although I have to use premium gas now because the electrode scored the cylinder, so I get spark knock under load with regular grade. Never using NGKs again!!!
Thanks for this video. I had a misfiring front right cylinder and replaced just one coil pack. 8 months later the front left started acting sporadic. 6 months later, # 3 is acting up. So, they are about $60 each, plus the plugs. Since they are on the front cylinder bank, I didn't need to take off the main air intake plenum and they take about 5 minutes each. You can go after them as they fail but then you could be taking it apart 6 times over a few years. At this point, I'm just going to replace the remaining 4 and be done with it. This video was helpful explaining how to get to the three on the back bank.
This was majorly helpful in my car-fixing endeavor this evening! One thing you may mention is that one of the hoses, when removing, will spew liquid. I about had a heart attack. 😂
This video and others helped me replace all 6 plugs, coil packs, plenum gaskets, and PCV valve. 3 1/2 hours. I found the hose from the plenum to the PCV valve was rotted completely. $1.79 for a foot of hose from Napa fixed that. I ended up removing those two bottom vacuum hoses. The throttle body pipe was tough to slide out of the plenum, and the orifice at the end of the pipe was pretty clogged, so watch for that as well.
Thank you so much. I have been trying to solve an issue on my 04 mazda that makes it lose power/idle while driving, and this video just gives me good knowledge on how to work on my car, so thank you !
Just to give y’all a heads up. The one hose that runs from under the power steering to the throttlebody in the front is a coolant line. You might want to have a drip pan
I learned the hard way. A few paper towels and a drip pan under the hose was definitely in order. Especially because the car had only sat for about 90 mins.
In regards to anti seize, if your spark plug threads look like they have a chome looking paint on them do not use anti seize, now days many spark plug makers are using anti seize paint, like AC Delco for one, and they suggest using no anti-seize. Thanks for sharing this video.
The truth is, most people aren't going to know if their plugs are already anti-seized or not, so why take a chance. Best to apply some, it will not hurt it.
@@RodsshopOrg Yeah I understand, most plug makers are applying some sort of anti seize now days though, a read that helped me understand it all... ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/anti-seize-spark-plug-threads/#:~:text=If%20the%20spark%20plug%20threads,seize%20to%20these%20spark%20plugs.
Excellent Mazda 6 v6 specific tips and very good tips regarding auto repair in general. The v6 Mazda needs to use a platinum or better plug. While the intake is off check and replace the PCV valve. This particular engine is prone to coil pack (COP) failure which causes catalytic converter overheating and failure. The failed catalyst disintegrates and can be pulled into the EGR causing motor failure. Check to see that you do not have a vacuum leak at the accordion intake tube as well One recommendation would be to have a steady camera mount. Thank you
What I need is a helper that can video me doing these things. It is so hard to hold the camera and do the work. Mount the camera on a tripod and most of the time my hands or body is blocking the view.
Do have any other recommendations on basic maintenance to do while changing the ignition coil and spark plugs? maybe clean the throttle body or mass airflow sensor? thanks for the video!
Forgot to clean the MAF sensor but was able to spray down the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. But I used your video to help me replace the spark plugs and ignition coil. The plenum was a pain in the ass to get off but that's because the wiring harness at the front was still holding it down. could not get EGR tube out they way you did, i took out three bolts but mine looks different than yours i think (2007 Mazda 6 Sport). i had to pry it out of the hole and hope that i didn't damage it. Cleaned it up as well as the tube was dark brown. was able to put everything together, car no longer misfires. will have to drive it more throughout the week to see if any codes come up but very smooth now. thanks again for your video
hello RodsShop. i have a 2004 Mazda 6 and i had some coils messed up and "supposedly" replaced on the engine but the engine light still comes on apparently there's a misfire in cylinder 5. i'm a bit mechanically inclined. i might be able to fix the problem. problem is, I dont know which cylinder is number 5. online i get different answers. Could you direct me the right direction? it would be much appreciated. thanks
+RodsShop a few of the coils have been changed, so they said. and i have reset the engine light. but it comes back on. thanks for links i will check them out. I'll keep you posted of the results. Thank so much.
My book shows the knock sensor is located on the back side of the engine under the exhaust manifold between the frost plugs. The connector is located on top by the battery/air box.
Rockauto is a life saver. I got the Delphi ones (very good brand) and in my local store they are about $75 EACH. I bought them on RockAuto for $29 EACH. I saved over $300.
RodsShop I have a 2003 mazda 6 3.0 v6. The other day the cars CEL began flashing which I believe is misfiring due to the ignition system. The car has 160k miles and my dad says the sparka plugs have never been changed. I have replaced the front 3 but have not got to the back yet because I want to get coil packs before I take the plenum off. I'm a bit worried though. The middle spark plug had what looked like oil on it. I'm not sure if that is good at all. My "mechanic" friend said it's probably not a big deal but I have read that could be the sign of another serious problem. Any idea of why that would be? Also can you still get a good deal on coil packs? I have a friend that is the manager at OReilly's that can get me 50% off anything at the store. Is there any coils you'd recomend from Oreillys?
The manual says something about resetting the PCM after reinstalling the plenum assembly. [I need to replace the rear coil packs, # 3 is misfiring] Is there a procedure for resetting the PCM or does it just do it on its own after starting?
Thank You Sir for this fantastic video. You saved me from torturing myself to hell. lol You did a great job explaining every single detail and to be careful with the wires and plugs. Your the best. Thank You :)
I have a 2003 Mazda 6 3.0 v6 so far I am looking on rock auto for spark plugs, wires , coil packs,plenum gaskets. where else can I get cheap parts? Is there any else I would need.
RodsShop sorry im not a car guy so i don't much about the technical terms. i think the hose connects to the air intake hose I'll post a picture when i can if that helps
not sure if its normal or not but when i start my car the PCV valve hose gets flattened as if its trying to suck air from throttle body but it cant it just gets flat "fish effect" as they say
Hi my manual states spark plug gap should be .051-.057in for v6 model not .044. The 4 cylinder shows .044. I called NGk and they said go with what's in the manual. Who is right here? NGk showed thief system saying .044, but again he said go with the manual.
+Stan TheMan I just did this job today, I have a 2004 Mazda 6s 3.0, and my manual also states 0.51-0.57. I bought NGK Iridium IX plugs, gapped them to 0.052 and it seems to be running fine. I think your spark gap depends on a number of factors. Model year, when/where it was manufactured, etc.
I got a 2005 Mazda 6 3.l V6 recently its been having a rough idle when in gear D,R and even park i was told by my local Mazda deader it could be spark plugs would that be the issues or is it something else
@@RodsshopOrg Did you ever find a place to buy the pigtail wire connector that clips onto the coil pack? My mechanic snapped mine while changing a coil pack. He should have watched your video, first.
This is the exact car I have but Idk how many oxygen sensor It has . Im confused on downstream rear & downstream front , upstream rear and upstream front , , i have a code reading p0158 , but I don’t wanna buy the wrong oxygen sensor
I hear you, O2 sensors are not cheap but I have this link to a video I have sent other to help with this code. It will show you things that could be causing the issue but it identifies which sensor you need to look at or replace. Let me know if this helps or not. th-cam.com/video/8_eKg-uT8SE/w-d-xo.html
Just a quick thing. I don't know if you know this but Ford and Mazda are real close. The 2015 turbo 4 cyl. DI engine is the same engine from the Mazdaspeed 6, so the motorcraft spark plugs are stock plugs. It is weird that the Mazda and ford motors are the same. I'm pretty sure this 3.0L v6 is the same one from the Ford Rangers.
That is really weird. Personally, my 2006 mazda 6 had motor craft plugs in it. I just changed the front three yesterday and didnt have time to do the rear, but have been watching this video. Thanks for the help!
You can put NGK's in anything because they are the number one spark plug. But Mazda by factory, uses Bosch. Mazda engines are not Ford, Ford just uses Mazda engines in some of their vehicles.
@RodsshopOrg you better do your research... don't believe me look all over the motor it will say FOMOCO everywhere that is how you know it is a Ford and not a Mazda Ford will not put it's name on something else and pass it off as Ford however they will sale other car manufacturers there products and let them install them in there vehicles and pass them off as there products 😉 like I said if you have a Ford engine with factory Motorcraft plugs that is because it must it's a Ford thing... but if you are simply putting a Ford motor in the vehicles you are manufacturing then you can opt for the cheapest plugs available you can order a specific brand and Ford will ablige you. You need to read up on Ford...
I did my research, I am not sure what point you are trying to argue, but the Mazda 6 car in this video and the year it is, took Bosch Spark Plugs from factory. That is all I am saying. What Ford and Mazda to later on or whenever, I really do not care. I usually go with factory parts, so when I call the dealer and they tell me brand and part numbers, I usually trust they know more than any of the rest of us. @@pieseasmyseas
@RodsshopOrg either your just plain stupid or you have no reading compatibility. Bosch does come factory with Mazda so does NKG just depends in where it was built like I said they can put what ever they want in it. However if the vehicle is built in a Ford plant it will receive Ford/Motorcraft plugs! That is because any thing Ford will receive genuine Ford part. If it is a Ford engine being put into another brand of car Ford will build the motors with whatever plugs you want! The 3.0 is a Ford engine! Mazda puts other name brand parts in there cars because they can,Ford uses Ford parts because they have too!
Bizarre about the gap. I don't even have a sticker under the hood. I guess I can measure gap when I take out plugs. My 2004 was purchased late in the year. Maybe different specs? I also read on the Mazda 6 forum on the web, some said not to gap at .044. See link provided post "56 forum.mazda6club.com/engine-suspension-drivetrain/176509-diy-how-change-spark-plugs-3-0l-v6.html#/forumsite/20967/topics/176509?page=6
+RodsShop one day my engine light was flashing so I went to the part a scan it it said miss fire 1 so I change the coil one and now when I fire it up it will run when u it the gas but when u let off it will die
+RodsShop well I took everything off and one of the wire clamp to hold in place broke off tomorrow and getting spark plug and the rubber gasket and the wire fix I'll let u know if it runs lol
Thanks for the Vid. I have a 2004 Mazda 6s with a 3.0 boasting 122, 567 miles on her. Had to change those plugs out and your Vid gave me just the right tips to make the job around 50% easier. (Forgot to mention I did the whole 9 yards while I was under there. Plugs, Coils, intake gaskets also found several potential vacuum leaks and PCV all fixed/replaced)
Take off the engine cover.
Take off the air intake box and tube and unclip the hose towards the throttle body end.
Unclip the wires clipped to the intake/plenum bracket. (they run across the front. you do this to pull the wires away to make more room for when you pull the intake/plenum off)
Take off the 3 hose from the back of the intake/plenum.
Unclip the wires to the throttle body.
There are 2-3 hoses that need to be taken off the throttle body.
Unbolt the 3 bolts on the EGR bracket that bolt the EGR valve to the intake/plenum.
Undo 8 bolts from the intake manifold/plenum.
The throttle body will come off with the intake/plenum.
When you pull the intake/plenum off you have to lift up and pull to the left. You'll have to get the EGR tube out of the intake hole on the right. (this is standing with your legs/knees to the front bumper)
This whole thing is actually very easy to do. It just involves taking off/unhooking excess things.
Get the intake/plenum gaskets a head of time in case you need to replace them.
It will help you have more room to work if you take the battery out, especially getting to the hoses on the throttle body.
I don't think I forgot anything.
I have done this procedure 3 times.
Something also to consider while you're involved in all of this, look up how to mod the EGR tube. It's worth a look.
Six Squirrel Bonez do you have to torque the plenum bolts to any specific spec??
you the real MVP
Easier to remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the valve to the stem.
Thanks for the video! Whoever was working at Mazda in 2004 and designed this setup really hated the home DIY mechanic. Wish me luck. Hope I dont break one of the 10 wires and hoses I have to disconnect...
Warning! Warning! Warning! If you use Fel-Pro Plenum gasket set MS96252 and follow the torque specs here you will crack your plenum. I learned the hard way. The gaskets are oversized and do not allow the plenum to sit flush on the intake. These are the only gaskets I was able to find apart from going to a dealer. I would suggest to only torque the plenum to 35in/lbs when using these gaskets. They may be good gaskets, but there is no information in the set about torquing them any differently.
Also, it would be nice to have mentioned that one of the hoses on the throttle body would spew coolant everywhere when it is removed.
Thank you so much for posting this! My car started misfiring in cylinder 1 late on a saturday night, turned out the plug was heavily fouled. I decided to go ahead and replace all the plugs and coils anyway as I had just hit 100k miles. This video was my primary resource for getting the job done myself on a sunday when no dealers or mechanics were open. It seems like a big job but really wasn't, the most difficult part was making sure I had everything taken apart properly without removing more than I needed to. Replacing the plugs and coils and getting everything put back together was trivial by comparison. I also had to deal with the spark gap confusion, despite using NGK iridium plugs I decided to go with the owner manual figure of 0.051-0.057 ( I gapped mine at 0.052) since the plugs that came out of it were gapped around 0.055ish, although those were Motorcraft platinums. Running fine so far.
Ive had problems with NGK plugs!! I won't use them on Customers or my own cars
@@haydenevans7131 Funny you mention that, a few days after writing that comment I started getting a misfire again, and a couple minutes later suddenly an awful knock began. Limped to the shop and turns out the ground electrode on one of the plugs broke off inside the cylinder. Managed to get it removed and replaced all the NGKs with Motorcrafts. Runs fine since then, although I have to use premium gas now because the electrode scored the cylinder, so I get spark knock under load with regular grade. Never using NGKs again!!!
Thanks for this video. I had a misfiring front right cylinder and replaced just one coil pack. 8 months later the front left started acting sporadic. 6 months later, # 3 is acting up. So, they are about $60 each, plus the plugs. Since they are on the front cylinder bank, I didn't need to take off the main air intake plenum and they take about 5 minutes each. You can go after them as they fail but then you could be taking it apart 6 times over a few years. At this point, I'm just going to replace the remaining 4 and be done with it. This video was helpful explaining how to get to the three on the back bank.
btw, I've got 100 - 108 k miles over the span of this problem.
This was majorly helpful in my car-fixing endeavor this evening!
One thing you may mention is that one of the hoses, when removing, will spew liquid. I about had a heart attack. 😂
Rad Banshee Gaming happened to me too lol I was like omg I fucked it up
This video and others helped me replace all 6 plugs, coil packs, plenum gaskets, and PCV valve. 3 1/2 hours. I found the hose from the plenum to the PCV valve was rotted completely. $1.79 for a foot of hose from Napa fixed that. I ended up removing those two bottom vacuum hoses. The throttle body pipe was tough to slide out of the plenum, and the orifice at the end of the pipe was pretty clogged, so watch for that as well.
Stupid question, but can you tell me what tool he has to remove those bolts? Thank you.
RodsShop. And all of you Thanks for your video, you’ve helped a lot to save time and unseen trouble!
Thank you so much. I have been trying to solve an issue on my 04 mazda that makes it lose power/idle while driving, and this video just gives me good knowledge on how to work on my car, so thank you !
Just to give y’all a heads up. The one hose that runs from under the power steering to the throttlebody in the front is a coolant line. You might want to have a drip pan
I learned the hard way. A few paper towels and a drip pan under the hose was definitely in order. Especially because the car had only sat for about 90 mins.
Just learned this the hard way as well. Going to let it sit for a bit and grab a pan
In regards to anti seize, if your spark plug threads look like they have a chome looking paint on them do not use anti seize, now days many spark plug makers are using anti seize paint, like AC Delco for one, and they suggest using no anti-seize. Thanks for sharing this video.
The truth is, most people aren't going to know if their plugs are already anti-seized or not, so why take a chance. Best to apply some, it will not hurt it.
@@RodsshopOrg Yeah I understand, most plug makers are applying some sort of anti seize now days though, a read that helped me understand it all... ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/anti-seize-spark-plug-threads/#:~:text=If%20the%20spark%20plug%20threads,seize%20to%20these%20spark%20plugs.
Thanks for posting this. I just bought a Mazda 6 with the 3.0 and will be doing the plug/coil change soon.
***** Will do, thanks.
Excellent Mazda 6 v6 specific tips and very good tips regarding auto repair in general. The v6 Mazda needs to use a platinum or better plug. While the intake is off check and replace the PCV valve.
This particular engine is prone to coil pack (COP) failure which causes catalytic converter overheating and failure. The failed catalyst disintegrates and can be pulled into the EGR causing motor failure. Check to see that you do not have a vacuum leak at the accordion intake tube as well
One recommendation would be to have a steady camera mount. Thank you
What I need is a helper that can video me doing these things. It is so hard to hold the camera and do the work. Mount the camera on a tripod and most of the time my hands or body is blocking the view.
Do have any other recommendations on basic maintenance to do while changing the ignition coil and spark plugs? maybe clean the throttle body or mass airflow sensor? thanks for the video!
Forgot to clean the MAF sensor but was able to spray down the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. But I used your video to help me replace the spark plugs and ignition coil. The plenum was a pain in the ass to get off but that's because the wiring harness at the front was still holding it down. could not get EGR tube out they way you did, i took out three bolts but mine looks different than yours i think (2007 Mazda 6 Sport). i had to pry it out of the hole and hope that i didn't damage it. Cleaned it up as well as the tube was dark brown. was able to put everything together, car no longer misfires. will have to drive it more throughout the week to see if any codes come up but very smooth now. thanks again for your video
@ 1:59, when that hose gets old and cracks, it will cause a vacuum leak and check engine. I know because..........
like a evap leak warning light?
@@wolfsteingaming2095 it will affect how it idles and has mileage goes to crap. The elbow bose in the back is notorious.
Terrific video - very well explained and thorough. Thanks!!
hello RodsShop. i have a 2004 Mazda 6 and i had some coils messed up and "supposedly" replaced on the engine but the engine light still comes on apparently there's a misfire in cylinder 5. i'm a bit mechanically inclined. i might be able to fix the problem. problem is, I dont know which cylinder is number 5. online i get different answers. Could you direct me the right direction? it would be much appreciated. thanks
+RodsShop a few of the coils have been changed, so they said. and i have reset the engine light. but it comes back on. thanks for links i will check them out. I'll keep you posted of the results. Thank so much.
Cylinder 5 is the the middle one on the front bank (3 cylinders towards the front of car)
Any idea where the knock sensor is on this engine?
My book shows the knock sensor is located on the back side of the engine under the exhaust manifold between the frost plugs. The connector is located on top by the battery/air box.
Thanks! Nice vid. Although Motorcraft plugs are stock on these, being a FoMoCo engine.
RodsShop Awesome. Good to know! I'll make the switch when I tackle this job tomorrow
why do recommend the coil packs to be replaced. parts seem expensive, Is it really necessary?
Rockauto is a life saver. I got the Delphi ones (very good brand) and in my local store they are about $75 EACH. I bought them on RockAuto for $29 EACH. I saved over $300.
RodsShop I have a 2003 mazda 6 3.0 v6. The other day the cars CEL began flashing which I believe is misfiring due to the ignition system. The car has 160k miles and my dad says the sparka plugs have never been changed. I have replaced the front 3 but have not got to the back yet because I want to get coil packs before I take the plenum off. I'm a bit worried though. The middle spark plug had what looked like oil on it. I'm not sure if that is good at all. My "mechanic" friend said it's probably not a big deal but I have read that could be the sign of another serious problem. Any idea of why that would be? Also can you still get a good deal on coil packs? I have a friend that is the manager at OReilly's that can get me 50% off anything at the store. Is there any coils you'd recomend from Oreillys?
Its a ford engine, but with mazdas preferences.
YES! You can always find the coupon to cover the shipping fee.
The manual says something about resetting the PCM after reinstalling the plenum assembly. [I need to replace the rear coil packs, # 3 is misfiring] Is there a procedure for resetting the PCM or does it just do it on its own after starting?
+RodsShop thanks.......greatly appreciate your input!
Thanks for the public service
bout to do this today. thanks for the vid!
very good video just enough information. great job
Thank You Sir for this fantastic video. You saved me from torturing myself to hell. lol You did a great job explaining every single detail and to be careful with the wires and plugs. Your the best. Thank You :)
I have a 2003 Mazda 6 3.0 v6
so far I am looking on rock auto for spark plugs, wires , coil packs,plenum gaskets. where else can I get cheap parts? Is there any else I would need.
What is the gap size for the spark plugs?
Many books will say .044in but the Mazda manual calls for .051in. I would run it at .051in
which one is cylinder 5? also what does that hose next to the ignition coils connect to? mines just dangling down by the o2 sensor
RodsShop sorry im not a car guy so i don't much about the technical terms. i think the hose connects to the air intake hose I'll post a picture when i can if that helps
I’m getting misfires in cylinder 5 on my 2005 Mazda 6 v6. Is that still the middle front?
what is the function of the tube at 1:58?
not sure if its normal or not but when i start my car the PCV valve hose gets flattened as if its trying to suck air from throttle body but it cant it just gets flat "fish effect" as they say
thanks, i appreciate your help
can you make a video on how to replace the cam sensor
Thank you it a problem i have and can't find any video on ho to do it
Hi my manual states spark plug gap should be .051-.057in for v6 model not .044. The 4 cylinder shows .044.
I called NGk and they said go with what's in the manual. Who is right here? NGk showed thief system saying .044, but again he said go with the manual.
+Stan TheMan I just did this job today, I have a 2004 Mazda 6s 3.0, and my manual also states 0.51-0.57. I bought NGK Iridium IX plugs, gapped them to 0.052 and it seems to be running fine. I think your spark gap depends on a number of factors. Model year, when/where it was manufactured, etc.
D TheMan .....I absolutely hate NGK plugs but that’s just me.
I got a 2005 Mazda 6 3.l V6 recently its been having a rough idle when in gear D,R and even park i was told by my local Mazda deader it could be spark plugs would that be the issues or is it something else
You ever figure out I’m having same issue lol
@@calebfarmer6236 haha sadly no I’ve sold that car with that issue for the life of me I could never figure it out
What happens if u break one of the connector clips on the coil pack, is it safe to tape down
@@RodsshopOrg Did you ever find a place to buy the pigtail wire connector that clips onto the coil pack? My mechanic snapped mine while changing a coil pack. He should have watched your video, first.
How long did this all take you?
Very good video. Very helpful.
This is the exact car I have but Idk how many oxygen sensor It has . Im confused on downstream rear & downstream front , upstream rear and upstream front , , i have a code reading p0158 , but I don’t wanna buy the wrong oxygen sensor
I hear you, O2 sensors are not cheap but I have this link to a video I have sent other to help with this code. It will show you things that could be causing the issue but it identifies which sensor you need to look at or replace. Let me know if this helps or not.
th-cam.com/video/8_eKg-uT8SE/w-d-xo.html
Just a quick thing. I don't know if you know this but Ford and Mazda are real close. The 2015 turbo 4 cyl. DI engine is the same engine from the Mazdaspeed 6, so the motorcraft spark plugs are stock plugs. It is weird that the Mazda and ford motors are the same. I'm pretty sure this 3.0L v6 is the same one from the Ford Rangers.
That is really weird. Personally, my 2006 mazda 6 had motor craft plugs in it. I just changed the front three yesterday and didnt have time to do the rear, but have been watching this video. Thanks for the help!
Excellent video!
Thanks for the video.
They put NKG in Mazdas because they are allowed to even if it is a Ford engine however if it is a Ford then Ford aka Motorcraft is required by Ford.
You can put NGK's in anything because they are the number one spark plug. But Mazda by factory, uses Bosch. Mazda engines are not Ford, Ford just uses Mazda engines in some of their vehicles.
@RodsshopOrg you better do your research... don't believe me look all over the motor it will say FOMOCO everywhere that is how you know it is a Ford and not a Mazda Ford will not put it's name on something else and pass it off as Ford however they will sale other car manufacturers there products and let them install them in there vehicles and pass them off as there products 😉 like I said if you have a Ford engine with factory Motorcraft plugs that is because it must it's a Ford thing... but if you are simply putting a Ford motor in the vehicles you are manufacturing then you can opt for the cheapest plugs available you can order a specific brand and Ford will ablige you. You need to read up on Ford...
I did my research, I am not sure what point you are trying to argue, but the Mazda 6 car in this video and the year it is, took Bosch Spark Plugs from factory. That is all I am saying. What Ford and Mazda to later on or whenever, I really do not care. I usually go with factory parts, so when I call the dealer and they tell me brand and part numbers, I usually trust they know more than any of the rest of us. @@pieseasmyseas
@RodsshopOrg either your just plain stupid or you have no reading compatibility. Bosch does come factory with Mazda so does NKG just depends in where it was built like I said they can put what ever they want in it. However if the vehicle is built in a Ford plant it will receive Ford/Motorcraft plugs! That is because any thing Ford will receive genuine Ford part. If it is a Ford engine being put into another brand of car Ford will build the motors with whatever plugs you want! The 3.0 is a Ford engine! Mazda puts other name brand parts in there cars because they can,Ford uses Ford parts because they have too!
@@RodsshopOrg also dealers and part stores know jackshit... you would be better off ordering parts from the janitor...
good work bro
собираюсь брать 3.0 2007 года
взял?
Thank you!
The engine mazda 6 2004 is the same that ford ranger 2004 V-6 3.0L
This guy sounds like hank from king of the hill LOL
Should I take that as a compliment or an insult...LOL
Bizarre about the gap. I don't even have a sticker under the hood. I guess I can measure gap when I take out plugs. My 2004 was purchased late in the year. Maybe different specs? I also read on the Mazda 6 forum on the web, some said not to gap at .044. See link provided post "56 forum.mazda6club.com/engine-suspension-drivetrain/176509-diy-how-change-spark-plugs-3-0l-v6.html#/forumsite/20967/topics/176509?page=6
since when you put anti seize on plugs don't plug coming whit anti seize on them
it won't stay running.
+RodsShop one day my engine light was flashing so I went to the part a scan it it said miss fire 1 so I change the coil one and now when I fire it up it will run when u it the gas but when u let off it will die
+RodsShop well I took everything off and one of the wire clamp to hold in place broke off tomorrow and getting spark plug and the rubber gasket and the wire fix I'll let u know if it runs lol
+RodsShop we got everything put together and it runs but now it's steaming out the exhaust and when it gets hot it shut off
+RodsShop I wish u could call me.
+RodsShop well we had a guy come look at it and it slip ot of time
And it was a royal pain
thank you!