Actually, even though you can’t always trust the lights, the power coming in, is what is checked. They can’t test the actual socket contacts, where your problem actually was (non of them do, it’s basically impossible). Not noticing a burned/melted socket was your actual problem. Now the question is why it melted and burned. I would bet a cheap receptacle possibly loose connection. Check your cord end plug for overheating and if it is discolored, replace it. Never try to clean metal contacts with emery cloth or sand paper. Just makes the problem worse and adds resistance to the contact points (embeds mineral into the metal which is an insulation). A file and wire brush can dress up the plug blades if needed. Overheated metal goes high resistance, starts to heat up and the issue comes right back. Deal with it all the time in low voltage, high amperage systems especially. Odds are if you could replace the socket, it would be functional again. I would agree, purchase a more professional unit with proven reliability. Regards..
You would have loved the uninterruptable power supply units I used to sell. They actually communicated in morse code. Great, if you know morse code. I had to call the company and hold the phone up to it so he could tell me what was wrong.
Very good. I like people that go deep into the mental things..... The human factor or to say. To many blame that factor. The human factor is kind of a reality. Good technique explanation too.
The LED's are measuring the input. The power supply had correct voltage, neutral, and ground. Root cause is the contact area of the plug was damaged and therefore the trailer plug was unable to make proper contact.
That is not really a Lie, it confirms good power at the pedal and can't tell if a terminal is burned too bad to reach the RV AFTER the power sensor. Misleading to you yes, but they can't account for a burnout failure.
My understanding is you should shut off the pedestal circuit breaker before you make any connections. This prevents arcing from the trailer load. That maybe what caused the terminal to burn.
Right, you just couldn't make this shit up. Yea, I thought it might have something to do with the issues of everything getting blown, but the cord wasn't used during the welding. So my guess it was the electrical storm we had a few days prior to us moving to a new RV park.
I would assume that those lights are analyzing what is coming in to the surge protector not what is going out. The damage is after the testing circuits.
Enjoy your videos. Thanks for all the information on the frame flex. I have a River Ranch with a similar issue. Not as bad. They have agreed to repair it. @@MyBucketListDay
Always something. I always buy high end south wires with no idiot lights, I’m reading real time electric telemetry on it and it’s accurate. I’ve run the probes on the pedestal and the south wires are always spot on. If an individual spends a little time understanding these things then life is a little easier. I’ve seen some of these idiot light surge protector’s on Amazon dirt cheap and that’s scary. Chiwanese
Well Progressive Industries has always been good product and I've never had any issues until now. So we will see what they say. Thanks for your comments
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Actually, even though you can’t always trust the lights, the power coming in, is what is checked. They can’t test the actual socket contacts, where your problem actually was (non of them do, it’s basically impossible). Not noticing a burned/melted socket was your actual problem. Now the question is why it melted and burned. I would bet a cheap receptacle possibly loose connection. Check your cord end plug for overheating and if it is discolored, replace it. Never try to clean metal contacts with emery cloth or sand paper. Just makes the problem worse and adds resistance to the contact points (embeds mineral into the metal which is an insulation). A file and wire brush can dress up the plug blades if needed. Overheated metal goes high resistance, starts to heat up and the issue comes right back. Deal with it all the time in low voltage, high amperage systems especially. Odds are if you could replace the socket, it would be functional again. I would agree, purchase a more professional unit with proven reliability. Regards..
Thanks for all the insight, very helpful...
You're not an idiot!!! If anything you're a Godsend for standing up and sustaining what is true! You're OUR private eye! 😊 THANK YOU KINDLY!!! 😊
WOW, thanks for the kind words
You would have loved the uninterruptable power supply units I used to sell. They actually communicated in morse code. Great, if you know morse code. I had to call the company and hold the phone up to it so he could tell me what was wrong.
Let us know if Progressive stands behind its product. Great inforemation
You got it!
Good points and great detail into troubleshooting to find the issue.
Thanks man, I do try
Hopefully Progressive will replace your surge protector. When I bought mine in 2020 they were rated as one of the best, if not the best.
I've reach out, waiting to hear...
Very good. I like people that go deep into the mental things..... The human factor or to say. To many blame that factor. The human factor is kind of a reality. Good technique explanation too.
Thank you sir
The LED's are measuring the input. The power supply had correct voltage, neutral, and ground. Root cause is the contact area of the plug was damaged and therefore the trailer plug was unable to make proper contact.
Agreed...
That is not really a Lie, it confirms good power at the pedal and can't tell if a terminal is burned too bad to reach the RV AFTER the power sensor. Misleading to you yes, but they can't account for a burnout failure.
Fair statement!
My understanding is you should shut off the pedestal circuit breaker before you make any connections. This prevents arcing from the trailer load. That maybe what caused the terminal to burn.
No, I always make sure the pedestal is off prior to plugin and unplugging. We were at a RV park prior that had the power go off and on several times.
Dang Geoff, if it ain't one thing it's another!! Wonder if your other problems had anything to do with the Surge Protector going out???
Right, you just couldn't make this shit up. Yea, I thought it might have something to do with the issues of everything getting blown, but the cord wasn't used during the welding. So my guess it was the electrical storm we had a few days prior to us moving to a new RV park.
I would assume that those lights are analyzing what is coming in to the surge protector not what is going out. The damage is after the testing circuits.
You are correct....
Enjoy your videos. Thanks for all the information on the frame flex. I have a River Ranch with a similar issue. Not as bad. They have agreed to repair it. @@MyBucketListDay
Always something. I always buy high end south wires with no idiot lights, I’m reading real time electric telemetry on it and it’s accurate. I’ve run the probes on the pedestal and the south wires are always spot on. If an individual spends a little time understanding these things then life is a little easier. I’ve seen some of these idiot light surge protector’s on Amazon dirt cheap and that’s scary. Chiwanese
Well Progressive Industries has always been good product and I've never had any issues until now. So we will see what they say. Thanks for your comments