Hey! Thank you very much! We upload every Friday but couldn't get one out yesterday. First Friday we have missed since we started. But our next video will be a cool one!
It is very satisfying to see the vehicle improvement after the work. I can imagine how rewarding is to do the work and see the result. Very expensive to have it done.
Single-stage paint is a type of enamel paint that mixes the basecoat and clearcoat together, and is applied in a single layer. It has some advantages over two-stage paint, but it also has some disadvantages, I have used Base clear and single stage but single stage is my choice every time hands down, when I paint my personal vehicles it's always single stage. 1.5 tip 30 PSI fluid wide open lays down like glass with a little extra reducer and activator is what works for me and no buffing because there is no orange pill, what you did looks good also my friend
When I first started painting back in the 80s,all I used was single stage, and I would say for the most part the results looked better than a base/ clear,at least of the products available then. Now for the sad part,I used to do alot of square body Chevy trucks,I can remember all the materials to do one was around $150.00 USD.
Another good how to. It pisses me off that prices are so damn expensive for stuff now. It's obviously affecting you in Canada also. The more videos you post, Cam seems more comfortable in front of the camera. Keep grinding out the content, guys. Some videos are getting a good amount of views.
Hey, thank you! Ya we are trying to improve and make the content better but also tough turn around time haha. Glad you are enjoying it though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just remember the only reason the price keeps going up, is because the money you are being paid with is becoming more worthless. It's the same paint as 4 years ago, the fake paper coupons we all get paid with are now that much more worthless because the central bank has magically printed 10 Trillion more coupons from nothing in the past 4 years
Did the same with my truck, it's not a hemi cuda so lap weld where appropriate and get it done. I went with single stage black also 2 medium coats and nobody can tell it's single stage. Your buddy will be very happy with those results and budget good job
I really enjoyed the breakdown of the paint mixing process! I'm interested in learning how to weld. In one of the next videos could you add a breakdown on what gear you use? and how to start messing about with a welder?
Please tell everone to wear there safety glasses because my brother lost his eye site because he didnt have the right fan for blowing the air out of the garage, so becareful and be safe thank you for your video .😊
Nice, very nice. A most appropriate paint job for that truck. It will last for many years, probably a decade. And more after the cut and buff on the ample third coat at the ten-year mark. That's the last paint job that trucks going to get. I've been having good success with Clarks Wholesale Paints. About $100 total for enamel, reducer and hardener. I started using it a few years ago on extreme economy jobs for people where it fit their budget, or they weren't going to even get a paint job on their old car. But it has held up very well and looks as good as any other single stage that I've use in the last 40 years, so that's all I use now. Lots of solids in their paint, so order an extra gallon of reducer for the metalics.
Thank you! Sounds like you definitely have dome some paint jobs haha! I don't think we have a Clark's wholesale paints, but we can check into it! Thanks for the tip!
@RustedRides rear and front quarters only. It's one of those projects where you want to keep it really cheap lol. To tell you the truth I never looked to see how much a patch panel would be. I thought I left that world behind me a long time ago lol now watching your videos I'm getting the itch 🤣. This summer I told my dad I'd rebuild the floor in the box of his ranger to
Quick question how many gallons of paint did he use for the whole truck and how many gallons of clear, love the videos by the way you did a great job recording it.
Thanks! We'll that's good, ya its nice to just have work done and pick up a finished product, but also nice to dog in and do some tinkering. Not always possible if it's a daily driver though
@SilverCommander you have no idea the amount of work it takes to paint a vehicle. Now all that work will look like 5hit in a few months at best since it's single stage
You don't need to spend extra money to lay down sealer BEFORE body filler. It tells you right on the can bodyfill doesn't stuck to bare metal. Also, the manufacturer recommends 320 grit final sand before color. Yes, your work will look fine for years, but if done correctly, it would last a lot longer.
Umm industry standard is the first number is paint. The second number is activator and the third number is reducer. you reversed the second two numbers and made it 4 to 2 to one so technically, you mixed it right, but let’s not confuse all the new guys.
6:08 you must use it sparingly! A gallon lasts over 10 years?! 😂 Joking. I know what he meant, but, this is the comment section. It takes all kinds. 😂❤
What’s your best video for someone that has never done a paint job to watch? I have a “work car” I wanna redo the paint on and figure it’s the perfect car to practice on.
Single stage is great, I remember when we had straight enamel before acrylic enamel, if you wanted fancier you could go Imron, before that they were using laquer. I have had laquer jobs but never painted a full car with it. Anyway, I have had some beautiful paint jobs with enamel and acrylic enamel, and many cars, or even antique tractors, snowmobiles etc. etc. are over done with base coat clear coat paint jobs. Its great but overdone and not period correct for these antiques.
No, but if a work truck doesn't look safe, or someone is driving reckless and gets caught, let's say doing burnouts, and the truck looks like it wouldn't pass an inspection... They might bother you a bit haha
Never patch bedsides, either replace the whole bedside which I would argue is just as much work with drilling spot welds and cutting the glue. Patches always bleed through the paint and rust after a few years and look like shit. Replacing the whole bedside, less bodywork, less welding, you just do spot welds. Or just buy a rust free/low rust bed, they're alot of them floating around for any truck
Very true, you are right, best way is to replace the box... But in Canada that can be pricy to find one rust free. And then yes next best is replace the whole box side. The patch panel is often what we do when a friend says "I want it to look good but don't have much money".
@RustedRides Gotcha, didn't realize yall were in the great white north. There's a huge market for them here in Ohio. Beds usually go anywhere from $400 to 1000 USD. Even for as new as a 2018 truck. The best tip I can give is to use a good weld through primer, and when you cut open and expose the inner panel, throw on a coat of POR-15 rust converter, that will neutralize the rust and slow rust down by a few years. And of course, cavity wax, which I'm sure yall are aware.
With that basecoat is a clear coat not needed.newbiee question?looks great maybe doesnt even need a clear.i thought clear was more as a protective layer to base colors.but havent painted shit so i dont know,thats why im learning moby dick!!!!snooky😊😊😊
Unless he owns the business/works as a brick layer , wouldn't he make more money painting vehicles in that garage? Painting is more of a skill than brick laying
Good observation. I thought the same thing. Both have their own skill set. Nowadays, painting can be much more lucrative. Painting indoors would definitely keep you out of that white crap that drops from the sky in Canada.
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
Something about rehabbing an regular car/truck for a regular person is pure gold
It's true, normal vehicles are satisfying to watch get a rebuild
Next time paint the hood from fender to center,then pick up the center to opposite fender. It keeps that wet edge.
Very good editing and camera work. You fellas make a good team! Really looking forward to next video. Keep it up!
Hey! Thank you very much! We upload every Friday but couldn't get one out yesterday. First Friday we have missed since we started. But our next video will be a cool one!
Don't say mixing cups are cheap or they'll raise the rice those too lol 😂
Haha oh no! You are right! Well, the mixing cup people probably won't see this video lol. Now I gotta go respond to your other comment!
It is very satisfying to see the vehicle improvement after the work. I can imagine how rewarding is to do the work and see the result. Very expensive to have it done.
Yes if paying a shop to do the work, it's not cheap, and ya very satisfinto see it come together!
I love the explanation of how you mix everything, not that I'm going to try it, but it's interesting!
Ya was a bit different addition for the vid, but wanted to share some of our process!
Single-stage paint is a type of enamel paint that mixes the basecoat and clearcoat together, and is applied in a single layer. It has some advantages over two-stage paint, but it also has some disadvantages, I have used Base clear and single stage but single stage is my choice every time hands down, when I paint my personal vehicles it's always single stage. 1.5 tip 30 PSI fluid wide open lays down like glass with a little extra reducer and activator is what works for me and no buffing because there is no orange pill, what you did looks good also my friend
When I first started painting back in the 80s,all I used was single stage, and I would say for the most part the results looked better than a base/ clear,at least of the products available then.
Now for the sad part,I used to do alot of square body Chevy trucks,I can remember all the materials to do one was around $150.00 USD.
Another good how to. It pisses me off that prices are so damn expensive for stuff now. It's obviously affecting you in Canada also. The more videos you post, Cam seems more comfortable in front of the camera. Keep grinding out the content, guys. Some videos are getting a good amount of views.
Hey, thank you! Ya we are trying to improve and make the content better but also tough turn around time haha. Glad you are enjoying it though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just remember the only reason the price keeps going up, is because the money you are being paid with is becoming more worthless. It's the same paint as 4 years ago, the fake paper coupons we all get paid with are now that much more worthless because the central bank has magically printed 10 Trillion more coupons from nothing in the past 4 years
Great job guys, no BS, way to go my Canadian brothers.
Thank you very much! 🇨🇦🤘
Did the same with my truck, it's not a hemi cuda so lap weld where appropriate and get it done. I went with single stage black also 2 medium coats and nobody can tell it's single stage. Your buddy will be very happy with those results and budget good job
Right on, ya its a more affordable option that gets real nice results!
Good stuff as always guys! Love to see the subscriber count going up! Lots of work goes into these vids, looking forward to the next one. 👍🏻
Thank you for all the support! Means a lot!
Great concise video, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Just subscribed. Love watching these transformations on a budget.
Hey, thank you! Glad you like the content! We will try and keep it coming. Thanks for watching, commenting, and for the sub!
I really enjoyed the breakdown of the paint mixing process! I'm interested in learning how to weld. In one of the next videos could you add a breakdown on what gear you use? and how to start messing about with a welder?
We will have to do a welding/patching video! Thanks for the feedback and support
Please tell everone to wear there safety glasses because my brother lost his eye site because he didnt have the right fan for blowing the air out of the garage, so becareful and be safe thank you for your
video .😊
Hey, ya, thank you. Sorry to hear about your brother. We are looking to get full face paint masks
Nice, very nice. A most appropriate paint job for that truck. It will last for many years, probably a decade. And more after the cut and buff on the ample third coat at the ten-year mark. That's the last paint job that trucks going to get.
I've been having good success with Clarks Wholesale Paints. About $100 total for enamel, reducer and hardener. I started using it a few years ago on extreme economy jobs for people where it fit their budget, or they weren't going to even get a paint job on their old car. But it has held up very well and looks as good as any other single stage that I've use in the last 40 years, so that's all I use now. Lots of solids in their paint, so order an extra gallon of reducer for the metalics.
Thank you! Sounds like you definitely have dome some paint jobs haha! I don't think we have a Clark's wholesale paints, but we can check into it! Thanks for the tip!
@@RustedRides
Ebay. If your handy with inexpensive enamel from way back, it behaves just like the old stuff.
That's a really good explanation and tutorial and a great show of following a consistent routine! Sharp looking truck for a single stage!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the process!
Nice job guys. I laughed when I saw the spray foam lol that's what I want to do to my wife car 😅
Hahaha oh no lol. Does hers have rust holes?
@RustedRides rear and front quarters only. It's one of those projects where you want to keep it really cheap lol. To tell you the truth I never looked to see how much a patch panel would be. I thought I left that world behind me a long time ago lol now watching your videos I'm getting the itch 🤣. This summer I told my dad I'd rebuild the floor in the box of his ranger to
Great video guys, I lived in the New Brunswick rust belt ,and know the rot too well on vehicle, looking forward to more work on the Charger,👍🇨🇦
Oh you must definitely be familiar with that type of rot. We will definitely have more charger content on the way! 🤘
open the fan pattern a little more and get closer to the panel when spraying
you paint?
@@561onboost5 yes I o
@@561onboost5 yes I do and I also use the Nason line
Looks really good
Thank you! And thanks for the comments too!
Quick question how many gallons of paint did he use for the whole truck and how many gallons of clear, love the videos by the way you did a great job recording it.
Looks great! Wish I could drop my car off there and let you paint it, but I am learning a lot.
Thanks! We'll that's good, ya its nice to just have work done and pick up a finished product, but also nice to dog in and do some tinkering. Not always possible if it's a daily driver though
Great Work !
Thank you!
You're a great friend
Can you make a run down of product you used in the video description please. Trying to buy everything. Awesome video
Truck looks great
Thank you! And thank you for the comments!
Looks great but single stage womt hold up very well and will scratch way easier than adding clear after
Who gives af its 10k better
@SilverCommander you have no idea the amount of work it takes to paint a vehicle. Now all that work will look like 5hit in a few months at best since it's single stage
@@MidnightPolaris800 I've forgotten more cars that I've painted that you'll ever do.
This is a work truck the goal is to keep to hiway patrol happy. Im not arguing about the benefits of base,clear but the goat is "Not a heat score"
Great video!
love the work XD
Thank you!
You don't need to spend extra money to lay down sealer BEFORE body filler. It tells you right on the can bodyfill doesn't stuck to bare metal. Also, the manufacturer recommends 320 grit final sand before color. Yes, your work will look fine for years, but if done correctly, it would last a lot longer.
Umm industry standard is the first number is paint. The second number is activator and the third number is reducer. you reversed the second two numbers and made it 4 to 2 to one so technically, you mixed it right, but let’s not confuse all the new guys.
you could also add to the paint nason 401-20 and slick it out
Thanks for the episode. Looks great. Where and how did you get the Nason?
We are north of Toronto. The nason can be picked up at Napa
7:32 Showing/Telling the details with the spray gun.... Thank you!
Hope it was helpful. Any questions just ask and we will try and get back to you
get some goggles brother.
i mixed that lol. great editing.
Ya we are looking to get full face paint masks. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
6:08 you must use it sparingly! A gallon lasts over 10 years?! 😂
Joking. I know what he meant, but, this is the comment section. It takes all kinds. 😂❤
Love the Karens. Same as welding tutorials, everyone's a expert.
Is a gravity feed gun better than a siphon? I have an old siphon gun, but someone said I should get a gravity feed gun because their better.
Gravity feed gun uses way less paint and puts out less overspray
Where do you get the replacement panels? Do you just get flat metal and bend it yourself? Or can you order it specific for this truck?
You can order specific for the truck, but sometimes we will bend up some sheet metal. Much nicer to get the panels from a auto body supply store
What’s your best video for someone that has never done a paint job to watch? I have a “work car” I wanna redo the paint on and figure it’s the perfect car to practice on.
How much paint did you use all together bc I might paint my truck but have to see how much gallons to get.
Single stage is great, I remember when we had straight enamel before acrylic enamel, if you wanted fancier you could go Imron, before that they were using laquer. I have had laquer jobs but never painted a full car with it. Anyway, I have had some beautiful paint jobs with enamel and acrylic enamel, and many cars, or even antique tractors, snowmobiles etc. etc. are over done with base coat clear coat paint jobs. Its great but overdone and not period correct for these antiques.
how do you get the patch panels made ? or bought
We are actually working on a video that will be our next release that we talk about patch panels and do a bit of a how too!
Are you using flux core?
Yep flux core on a 120v welder
Damn cam isn’t even a professional body man? He had me fooled
Ya! Backyard diy self taught haha, pretty good!
Why are cops messing with him for a rusty truck? Is rust illegal in Canadia too, now?
No, but if a work truck doesn't look safe, or someone is driving reckless and gets caught, let's say doing burnouts, and the truck looks like it wouldn't pass an inspection... They might bother you a bit haha
@@RustedRides Seems like the law should only be concerned with whether it is inspected or is not inspected.
dont you use nason 422-23 sealer before painting?
Don't patch like that, you do " butt welds " otherwise it will just rust from underneath...
Did you spray clear coat afterwards?
It’s single stage so he probs didn’t
Sad part is people are making TH-cam videos on how to “fix” rockers with the foam and bondo
Ya, that's a real shame
Spray foam in the cab corners😭 the worst
It's brutal
Single le stage is one can i spray
Why don't you do the top and hood first so you're not risking touching the fender or doors
❤🎉
Thank you!
Just do butt welds better than overlapping metal.
Tells us why spray foam is a bad idea,😊
It holds water and rust the whole panel
Never patch bedsides, either replace the whole bedside which I would argue is just as much work with drilling spot welds and cutting the glue. Patches always bleed through the paint and rust after a few years and look like shit. Replacing the whole bedside, less bodywork, less welding, you just do spot welds. Or just buy a rust free/low rust bed, they're alot of them floating around for any truck
Very true, you are right, best way is to replace the box... But in Canada that can be pricy to find one rust free. And then yes next best is replace the whole box side. The patch panel is often what we do when a friend says "I want it to look good but don't have much money".
@RustedRides Gotcha, didn't realize yall were in the great white north. There's a huge market for them here in Ohio. Beds usually go anywhere from $400 to 1000 USD. Even for as new as a 2018 truck. The best tip I can give is to use a good weld through primer, and when you cut open and expose the inner panel, throw on a coat of POR-15 rust converter, that will neutralize the rust and slow rust down by a few years. And of course, cavity wax, which I'm sure yall are aware.
Can I donate a 4000 Sata to u instead of that ole gun?
Haha yes. Cam saw this and said "I've always wanted to try one of those guns" are you sure? Feel free to email us. Rusted Rides 30 @ gmail. Com
On it's way
With that basecoat is a clear coat not needed.newbiee question?looks great maybe doesnt even need a clear.i thought clear was more as a protective layer to base colors.but havent painted shit so i dont know,thats why im learning moby dick!!!!snooky😊😊😊
Unless he owns the business/works as a brick layer
, wouldn't he make more money painting vehicles in that garage? Painting is more of a skill than brick laying
Good observation. I thought the same thing. Both have their own skill set. Nowadays, painting can be much more lucrative. Painting indoors would definitely keep you out of that white crap that drops from the sky in Canada.