Hey Joe, today I took my car in to get looked at for a transmission problem, and when I got it back, it started overheating LITERALLY less than a mile from the mechanic shop, and it went on like that, hovering a notch below the deadly red zone, forcing me to make about 5 stops to let it cool on my way home from the mechanic, a distance of 3 miles!!! So I went on an Internet search, and came across your video. Your video totally saved the day. YOU, my friend, saved the day!!! I followed your instructions to a T, and voila!!! My car is not overheating anymore, hell it ain't even getting anywhere past the middle point. In other words, it is within specifications as far as temperature goes. You deserve a golden crown of honor!!! Thank you very much for posting such a helpful video!!! For those of you that have an overheating problem, try this because IT WORKS!!!! It saved me a lot of money I would have given to those good-for-nothing mechanics that would've probably given me an incorrect/ripoff diagnosis!!! Thank you Joe!!!!!
Thank you; use a funnel to fill the radiator and fill the overflow/coolant capture reservoir as well! Placing a rag around the bleeder screw will help to soak up coolant and cut down on exhaust manifold steam!
Thank you so much for posting this video I am six months pregnant and I’m just now learning how to really do different things to my car and I put the water pump in which was crazy difficult for me but I was able to do it and I could not believe the system with it off I didn’t know I had to turn the ignition on so you gave me the tools and the info that I needed thank you please make more videos with this model vehicle
Joe The Auto Guy...this tutorial kicked ass for me.. I do not know much about cars but am beginning to learn just out of curiosity and cheapness. My son has 1998 Century that was my grandmothers and only has about 60k on it...it is not a great car but gets him from a-b plus a good car for a 17 year old kid. It tends to overheat and loses heat inside. My mechanic charged me $80 bucks last time to fill coolant. bleed etc . Its been so cold here in NY that my son didn't want to drive it because he had no heat. This weekend it was warmer so I went out, used this video, and boom I had full blown heat going on. I know to those who may know cars it seems simple..but for guy like me, learning how to fill, bleed, etc it was awesome. Thanks!
You never bled through the first bleeder. There is a pipe for de-icing the throttle body which comes straight up from the water pump near the radiator fill cap. There is a bleeder at the top before it goes off to the throttle body. You need to loosen that bleeder while you fill until you see coolant coming out of the bleeder. Squeeze the upper radiator tube and burp the water pump bleeder again and again while waiting for the thermostat to open. The thermostat housing bleeder is the only one you show here but if you don’t bleed the other one first you may have a big air bubble that prevents or delays the thermostat from opening.
my car was running hot usually on open highway where you may think it could draw in more air and cool down. nope. I had air pocket in cooling system and low coolant when I got car. I also decided to replace coolant temp sensor. it would heat up to 260. max on gadge. scary as xXxX. Pontiac Grand Prix.3.1. after I replaced sensor and added fluid and got rid of air pocket. wow.. I had good heat+ no overheating at all. even does good on heavy load up hill. 3.1 century engine is in car. these engines are fairly strong and fast imo. if maintained. I've added a ecm and maf sensor also. the car runs very good now and I was told it was a junk pile and needed a new engine. duhh not. thank you for this helpful video sir.
FINALLY I ONOW WHERE THE BLEEDER VALVE IS LOCATED AT!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I TRIED TO TELL THE MAN IN MY LIFE THAT BECAUSE WE HAD TO ADD FLUID WE NEEDED TO BLEED THE SYSTEM CAUSE I READ IT IN THE OWNERS MANUAL AND JE ARGUED WITH ME ABOUT IT?!!!!! I COULDNT FIGURE OUT WHERE IT WAS AND EXACTLY HOW TO DO IT. UNFORTUNATELY THE OWNER'S MANUAL IS VERY VAGUE. AFTER STRUGGLING WITH THIS FOR OVER A YEAR NOW I CAN FINALLY DO IT MYSELF AND NOT HAVE TO DEPEND ON AMANDA HELP ME DO IT. I THINK YOU MY CAR THINKS YOU YOU'RE A LIFESAVER!
This is the best I've seen so far you can't believe the trouble I have been through. I bought the vehicle used and I couldn't figure out what was going on. It turns out someone had sheered off that little 7 mm bleeder and it looked like just a 10 mm screw. I bought the proper screw and bleeder on Amazon yesterday for 8 bucks. What a hassle.
Thanks Joe. I've been fussing with my 2001 Chevy Venture for three weeks. Had the thermostat changed and it kept over heating. I didn't even know of the bleeder valve. Learned them. Didn't know that I could bleed the system while the engine is running. I didn't want to take it back to the same mechanic so I have been attempting it myself. It's working. You have my gratitude!
I did the water pump and bled the air from cooling system, went for a drive and everything was good. When I stopped I could hear bubbles entering the overflow... The next time I started it started to over heat again.. I've had to repeat process many times now.. what ammo missing?
My 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass's either OEM, Haynes manual or both said to attach a 1/4" hose to the screw. That would help with the bad squirting and the coolant leaking. Remember to keep it away from the hot places.
Thank you. Just bought a 2000 Pontiac Montana - very little heat. I'll do this before anything else to see what's up. I'll post again about what I find. Blessings to you and yours.
This video was helpful in how to bleed air from the coolant system. After the temperature reached 225 degrees he added more antifreeze to the radiator. You don't want to take the radiator cap off the with the car hot. You can get burned. Let the car cool down before opening the radiator cap.
I think he meant after the bleed process...tip off when cooled. He jumped around but yes on get radiator pressure 1st but breezed thru that on how. Then if a car wasn't getting radiator pressure he passed over. Say the pump or loss of pressure..nope..just showed pressure on cap..but yes to bleed the system that's how.
Joe, great upload. I did this to my 2000 Pontiac Montana after I did the thermostat. Bled system but still did not have heat. Come to find out the heater bypass pump was seized up. Took the pump off and disassembled and cleaned the remnants of the Dex-Cool that used to be in the van. I will agree with almost every experienced mechanic out there that says that Dex-Cool is garbage. It was actually like clay in the pump housing. Cleaned it out and pump spun freely and then I had great heat after bleeding again for about 10 minutes.. Again thanks for the upload.
Look at the way your Radiator cap was designed for that specific vehicle. Every time you pour Coolant into the Radiator cap without a funnel; your practically spilling Coolant all over the place. Brilliant Engineering.
Joe you ARE THE MAN! Wife's 98 Buick Century 3.1 is having over heating issues. After watching your video you confirmed my suspicions about it being airlocked...THANKS BROTHER!
I took my car to jiffy lube to have my system bled and they used the other valve that you said in the video not to use. The next day my car over heated so bad that it blew a head gasket. Thank you for this video on the RIGHT way to bleed a coolant system.
homes24 it was previously flushed with green coolant, completely fine if your running all the same coolant , but yeah for everyone do not mix coolants its a huge no no.
What happens if you mixed a lil bit like half a glass or so ? Damn O Reilly's worker gave me the wrong one glad my 2000 Pontiac grand prix didnt need much but now my car is over heating and I dont k ow if that's the problem my fans are not working for 1 gonna check if the motor on them are still good but back to the coolant can I do what Scott did and flush it out with water ?? HELEP lol thanks
DexCool and green stuff should never mix. Together, they form a sludge that clogs cooling passages, resulting in poor coolant circulation. This can lead to head gasket failure or intake manifold failure. These engines do just fine with the green or the red. Just never a mix of the two in any portion.
Just found your video, waiting until I have the money to buy some anti-freeze and going to try to follow your instructions, wrote them down in order so I hope it works. I am not a mechanic by any means. My wife's aztek has been down for 14 months now while I taught myself how to change the thermostat, heater core, radiator, all the hoses, and the water pump. It is our only vehicle so I hope this works. If it does you will not only get my thanks on here but I will be throwing your name and link out on facebook too. If it doesn't work, no worries, I won't give you a bad review, I am not like that and don't blame others for my problems but you will get some promotion from me if you make my wife's Aztek work finally.
Not blowing heat and overheating. Took 11.5 hours to go 23 miles. Replaced thermostat 3 times, then ask in one shot did thermostat, radiator, heater core, water pump, all hoses, cleaned throttle body and coolant passage of throttle body. Took most if the year to learn how to do all of that but got it done. Was originally trying to bleed with both bleeders until I watched your video. Wrote down ask the steps in order, have watched it 3 times and after I get some antifreeze on the 3rd I'll watch it one more time before I go it and tackle it again. Hoping after all this work it's not the damn head gasket. I have white smoke in start up but then it clears, I don't see or smell coolant at the exhaust, no coolant in my oil, and haven't noticed any oily film in my overflow reservoir do I am hoping it just needs to be bled properly.
Thanks for the great video. I feel I should warn whoever will be doing this for the first time to not open the bleeder valve too much or it will shoot out and get lost/ I speak from personal experience. Lol
Thanks for the great video. My van was over heating and after bleeding the coolant system it never gets over the first line on the temp gauge. I was surprised how much air was in the system. Thanks again great job.
the other bleeder by the wp is the best one to use, its the highest point in the system, I keep both semi loose and open each one as I check then shut it back off without tighetneing, wait for a little pressure, do it again etc
thanks for the video. the info at the end was GOLD! I was just saying that you didn't say anything about the 2nd bleeder screw. then you said don't touch it or very bad day. WHAT about when the WATER PUMP is changed? do you bleed the 2nd screw? Thanks
Joe, I am also perplexed by your comment about not touching the pump housing bleeder valve. If it causes such a "very bad day" by using it for what it is intended for, could you please elaborate a bit? Some of us older shade tree mechanics might want to or need to know.
no problem, that bleeder is for the initial fill, no pressure or heat , and coolant system is empty. you open that one and once fluid comes from it close it down , do not open it under any pressure or it will blow and if the engine is running it will blow like old faithful
Only if you are doing it wrong. The one at the water pump (left) is the one you bleed cold, but I still go back while bleeding the one at the thermostat housing (right). Once the thermostat is open and everything is hot/pressurized it will just squirt out the side. Though it could be at any of 360°, the bleed hole is still on the side. You shouldn’t be taking the bleed screw all the way out for it to squirt out the top. Regarding the temp gauge markings: The Pontiac Montana/Oldsmobile Silhouette have a tachometer that the Chevrolet Venture doesn’t have, despite being that same van. That means they had to fill the empty space on the cluster with a bigger temperature gauge. Even with the smaller gauge, my Montana has 260°F at the top and 160°F at the bottom. That means you get exactly 100° in-between, so half-way is 160°+50°=210°F. I know it is accurate because just above half way is exactly where the water boiled when I did a coolant flush with water and cleaner (212°F). Furthermore, that makes the 1/4 mark 160°+25°=185°, which is the exact spec for the stock thermostat. Sure enough, my thermostat opens up at exactly a quarter of the way. TStat housing bleeder starts shooting pressurized coolant and the upper radiator hose gets super hot. I don’t know if this translates to the gauges without numeric markings but if your thermostat opens at a quarter of the way then that’s 185°F, half way should be 210°F, 3/4 should be 235°, and all the way should be 260°. Of course, you can’t confirm this if you are having a problem with a stuck thermostat like I was but it’s good to know going forward.
Had it not been for your video I would have cracked open the other bleeder valve by the water pump and created a world of headaches for myself. Thats why it's always best to do my research! Thanks for the video Joe! You the man!
I had head gaskets replaced by a "friend" and he managed to forget a nut on one of the hose fittings when he put it back together. This video was more helpful than my "friend" was with how to get the air out of my coolant system after I fixed his mistake and tried to add coolant to what seemed like a full radiator. The car still had the "low coolant" light on and I knew something wasn't right.
Im gonna try this on my 2004 monte carlo when the sun comes up, i just had the coolant system flushed and it tried to over heat on the way home. Had no heat coming out the vents either so im gonna pray this is all it needs.
My car is just like yours and what a tempermental SOB that cooling system is! I had a helluva time getting it bled! Thanks for posting this vid. (I have to say...you do run your words together sumthin fierce). Thankfully there is a CC with ur vid. Happy Wrenching.
Man, Joe thanks so much for this video. I know this is a little old but I have a 2003 Chevy Impala I couldn't figure out why my car kept overheating after I just removed the radiator. After I bled the car like you said my car worked like a dream. Saved so much 💰 thanks man!!! Great video.
Lol I wish I knew about that bleeder screw. I've been trying to let it bleed through the radiator cap. Limited success. Though another issue I've had is at times the coolant looks like it's a blown head or intake gasket, but clears up when cool. Aside from other bits in the system, it needs a flush... And I suspect a thermostat too. Has an engine code for not getting warm fast enough. But at the same time it can start to overheat. I'm going to guess stick thermostat for too cold and air for when it's too hot. Mines a 2003 buick century. It has the dual zone climate control thing which likes to short out keeping the ac from turning on
Awesome video! I had issues with my temperature not being hot and temperature going up or not going up and staying cold. I followed your directions to a T and it took awhile but it worked. Thank you so much!
good videos Joe - never knew about that bleeder screw there, been trying to bleed it through the heater hoses because they are the highest point on the engine. The head gaskets were shot already so I replaced them, then bled the system the correct way as you've shown. Thanks again!
You sir are my mentor on troubleshooting from now on My car had a bad resevoir cap and it let all the anti-freeze drain out and I just seen your video and my car which ive had for 10yrs now is doing the same thing I was gonna drive it to the mechanic but I have the book and knowledge plus dont wanna ruin my heads so how long is this technique time wise?
Hey Joe. I replaced the thermostat. Now, I still do not have a heat in my oldsmobile silhouette. When I was checking coolant level I finally opened the radiator cap and antifreeze came out. I let it go till its stoped. I saw you put some coolant in the radiator that's the level , right? Is it the way of edding and checking coolant level? Even after edding some coolant indicator light came up says " check coolant level "" . How to do it right way to turn the indicator off?
Yeah, it’s actually at a higher point than the thermostat housing. The one on the housing is what I crack when filling the radiator - when that one spews liquid, the rad is full. Then go to the one above the water pump and open it up until it spits water out, then refill the rad. Once those stop burping, start the car, let it warm up, bleed at the tstat housing again. The temp gauge should be just below halfway, just below boiling, the rad fans should be on low and the heat in the cabin will be pumping.
Brian Herron ussually this is not the cause of overheating. It is when being performed after a service but i would perform a little more diag and get the system pressure tested
Might wanna check if the thermostat is opening and at what temp and/or the water pump not doing it job. Also can be a compromised head gasket/ warpage/ block cracked, clogged cooling system etc.
@@eliezerramosjr1017 Actually it was the head gaskets which were replaced shortly after I sent this message. You must be a VERY BUSY guy to take 5 years to reply to a comment on your channel!!
At the end of the video, what is the component you said not to touch? My Impala looks to have a leak there and/or at the hose above it. Thanks for the educational video!
Jeez. I looked around for 20 minutes after replacing the water pump on my buick, did not expect the vent to be right on the top of the freaking engine... "^ Closes the bleeder screw with his bare ass fingers, with the engine running! Like a BOSS !^"
I am wondering the same thing...why should we avoid that bleeder valve? Further up I read this from Joe: "no problem, that bleeder is for the initial fill, no pressure or heat , and coolant system is empty. you open that one and once fluid comes from it close it down , do not open it under any pressure or it will blow and if the engine is running it will blow like old faithful"
Neil Williams coolant naturally flows through the heater core its on the bypass tubes for that reason if you start to get hear from the vents you know the coolant is flowing through and no air should be present
I highly recommend the Lisle Spill-Free Funnel for purging the system rather than tampering with the bleeders. I picked one up online for about $35 shipped and it was worth it because it's so fast, easy to use, reliable and not a drop of coolant is spilled or wasted. You simply begin with the engine cold and the car parked on an incline, jacked or on ramps to set the radiator as the cooling system's highest point, attaching the funnel to the radiator neck with the adapter fitting included with the kit and fillling the funnel halfway with coolant, heater turned on to its hottest setting, and watch the air bubbles rise to the surface of the funnel puddle and escape from the engine, mildly at first and then more aggressively once the thermostat opens. Then when the bubbles and gurgling stops, you're done. 15 minutes. Try it. God Bless.
DDEENY have had one at my job for years love it but didnt have it home on the day of filming but yes your right its a great tool i am editing a video on using one in the next couple weeks
Great info. I have one question. Was the radiator cap in the vent position or was it tight the whole time you were bleeding the air out the bleeder valve ?
I have a 2003 Chevy Impala V6 3.8 and I parked on a hill to get get air bubbles out of the system. It worked without bleeding the hose. I replaced my radiator today and I thought I got all the air out of the system but I'm not getting any heat out of the blower. Do you think it's because I didn't bleed the line like you did or could it be something else?? awesome video btw! you're pretty good with one hand.lol
Gotta do water pump in my 03 aztek today i ran water all summer no prob winterized the aztek / antifreeze ! prob have'nt put 50 miles on it with antifreeze in it now it spewing right outta the pully !!
While you're loosening the bleeder valve, is the radiator cap turned on all the way? If so, does the coolant get sucked out of the overflow tank, into the radiator, to displace the air that is bled out?
Mine only has the one bleeder screw with only an expansion tank cap. Manual says to crank up and run to operating temp and then open the bleeder screw you just said would give us a hard day.. Does the bad day apply to me and my vehicle? Lol. Thanks.
car stop overheating I noticed the first few bleeds my a/c went from blowing cold to blowing hot after I kept bleeding it. (had it at hot like u stated to have it on in the video)
Another great post I'm going to follow, except my radiator has no cap !!! Ill have to get a few more details on that. You should get a funnel mang! lol You have all these nice tools electronic torque wrenches and engine scanners... haha but no 3$ funnel
Great video and thanks. What if I'm getting nothing but air out of the bleeder? Fluid level appear to be full A the end you mention not to touch the water pump bleeder, why so?
InspiredGuitar1 bleed the system by opening the radiator cap (when its cold) and top off coolant, run the car at a accelerated idle about 1000-1400 rpm as the car heats up the antifreeze level will rise and when it gets to operating temperature or close shut the radiator cap and then open the bleed valve if it continues to run hot to get the stubborn air out. when it runs in the normal range then wait for it to cool down then open the cap (COLD) and top off coolant , if you touch the other bleeder it could blow off and burn you i did it once and it blew like old faithful
Wait a minute so you can use the green coolant for this engine type? Cause i use dexcool and its the first time I've ever got smudge lookin shit around the radiator cap
If you FULLY flush the dexcool out you can use whatever you want. Dont mix different colors of coolant or bad things will happen. Apparently the orange universal coolant works with dexcool. I hope thebpeople from the 3 parrs stores in town know ehat they are talking about cuz im doing this with my impala right now and i only know the coolant is orange. No clue if it is universal or dexcool...
David Solis the radiator fans are behind the radiator and pull air through the radiator and also blow air onto the front exhaust section. That's pretty much how most are setup, the fans have to blow or pull air towards the engine otherwise they would be fighting incoming air as you move down the road. The radiator fans not only cool the radiator but also have some effect of air cooling on the engine itself.
Turning the heat on doesn't help in my case because the heater fan, rear defrost and cruise control are disabled in recirc (fuses are good). This seems to be tied to the coolant level but is getting more common as time goes on: lately it has to get real cold to fire up the heat (and even that is flaky). How do I get around that?
I usually run the engine at 1500 rpm with the rad cap off. The coolant level will drop, add more. The t-stat will open, add more. Once the top rad hose is hot and the coolant doesn't drop anymore. YOU'RE DONE. Why make love to the job?
On my 97 lumina there is another bleed screw on other side of engine in front looks different then one seen here but works the same, was right there in front of me but never really acknowledged what it was cause looked totally different then one by thermostat this is to be bled of air also.
what happens if you opened the bleeder valve that you sed could make for a bad day. I was told to use that one . Can i get air out with the valve on thermostat im doing it in a 3.4 L your video on the water pump helped alot got mine in and no leaks!
Joshua Lambert on the 3.4 some have the pressurized water reservoir run that with the cap offf until at operating temp accelerated idle ( 1200-1500 rpm) then watch your coolant level and fill to level line after it runs and sustains at operating temp 195-210 degrees then cap off and idel to see if it sustains temp and have full heat
Have a 2006 equinox 3.4l. Is this bleeder valve located on the water pump? Is it on the water pump on these cars. Bf wants to confirm before proceeding. Thank you
Wait, why will the one on the left cause you a very bad day? Just curious. That one on the left wt the heater core line was the first one i noticed that lead me to the search and found this video lol Cause we did a water pump and now i have no heat. Been bleeding old school with the cap on the radiator but no luck obviously
So for the bottom bolt on the thermostat housing on a 3.4 in a 01 aztec to get rid of the difficulties reaching it bending wrenchs an braking my hands i took a look.. REMOVE THE THROTEL BODY AN YOU HAVE FULL ACCESSES TO THE BOTOM BOLT.
Thanks for the video! Do you know if the 02 Century 3.1 has bleeder in the same place? Is the cap just on part way but not all the way to lock it down in place while bleeding?
on what car you were working on?? I have oldsmobile silhouette 03. No heat, no a/c. Also, no overheating. Do I have the same pr8blem as your car or its just a thermostat. I em early bird, so I am sorry , but I just wanna go out and replace my thermostat but it's still dark. 5:30 am . Its cold and rainy but I need to fix it, anyway. Thanks for this video.
i wouldnt go replacing the thermostat unless your car is not warming up to temp. check the coolant level before attempting repair ypu might just be leaking down, Air conditioning is not related to the thermostat
I noticed you opened your radiator cap to add water after you opened and closed the bleeder valve. Is that why water didnt spray everywhere when you opened the cap? Can you just add water to the overflow canister instead?
the cap was on the vented position so the system never built pressure . when filling a non degas bottle setup you need to fill up the cap for the initial fill and bleed
Hey Joe, today I took my car in to get looked at for a transmission problem, and when I got it back, it started overheating LITERALLY less than a mile from the mechanic shop, and it went on like that, hovering a notch below the deadly red zone, forcing me to make about 5 stops to let it cool on my way home from the mechanic, a distance of 3 miles!!! So I went on an Internet search, and came across your video. Your video totally saved the day. YOU, my friend, saved the day!!! I followed your instructions to a T, and voila!!! My car is not overheating anymore, hell it ain't even getting anywhere past the middle point. In other words, it is within specifications as far as temperature goes. You deserve a golden crown of honor!!! Thank you very much for posting such a helpful video!!! For those of you that have an overheating problem, try this because IT WORKS!!!! It saved me a lot of money I would have given to those good-for-nothing mechanics that would've probably given me an incorrect/ripoff diagnosis!!! Thank you Joe!!!!!
your welcome, glad it worked for you!!
Thank you; use a funnel to fill the radiator and fill the overflow/coolant capture reservoir as well!
Placing a rag around the bleeder screw will help to soak up coolant and cut down on exhaust manifold steam!
Thank you so much for posting this video I am six months pregnant and I’m just now learning how to really do different things to my car and I put the water pump in which was crazy difficult for me but I was able to do it and I could not believe the system with it off I didn’t know I had to turn the ignition on so you gave me the tools and the info that I needed thank you please make more videos with this model vehicle
Joe The Auto Guy...this tutorial kicked ass for me.. I do not know much about cars but am beginning to learn just out of curiosity and cheapness. My son has 1998 Century that was my grandmothers and only has about 60k on it...it is not a great car but gets him from a-b plus a good car for a 17 year old kid. It tends to overheat and loses heat inside. My mechanic charged me $80 bucks last time to fill coolant. bleed etc . Its been so cold here in NY that my son didn't want to drive it because he had no heat. This weekend it was warmer so I went out, used this video, and boom I had full blown heat going on. I know to those who may know cars it seems simple..but for guy like me, learning how to fill, bleed, etc it was awesome. Thanks!
You never bled through the first bleeder. There is a pipe for de-icing the throttle body which comes straight up from the water pump near the radiator fill cap. There is a bleeder at the top before it goes off to the throttle body. You need to loosen that bleeder while you fill until you see coolant coming out of the bleeder. Squeeze the upper radiator tube and burp the water pump bleeder again and again while waiting for the thermostat to open. The thermostat housing bleeder is the only one you show here but if you don’t bleed the other one first you may have a big air bubble that prevents or delays the thermostat from opening.
Had no heat after I flushed my radiator, your video saved me a mechanic bill....thanks
my car was running hot usually on open highway where you may think it could draw in more air and cool down. nope. I had air pocket in cooling system and low coolant when I got car. I also decided to replace coolant temp sensor. it would heat up to 260. max on gadge. scary as xXxX. Pontiac Grand Prix.3.1. after I replaced sensor and added fluid and got rid of air pocket. wow.. I had good heat+ no overheating at all. even does good on heavy load up hill. 3.1 century engine is in car. these engines are fairly strong and fast imo. if maintained. I've added a ecm and maf sensor also. the car runs very good now and I was told it was a junk pile and needed a new engine. duhh not. thank you for this helpful video sir.
I thought the bleeding proces was done sooner than it actually was, thanks for taking us through the whole process.
FINALLY I ONOW WHERE THE BLEEDER VALVE IS LOCATED AT!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I TRIED TO TELL THE MAN IN MY LIFE THAT BECAUSE WE HAD TO ADD FLUID WE NEEDED TO BLEED THE SYSTEM CAUSE I READ IT IN THE OWNERS MANUAL AND JE ARGUED WITH ME ABOUT IT?!!!!! I COULDNT FIGURE OUT WHERE IT WAS AND EXACTLY HOW TO DO IT. UNFORTUNATELY THE OWNER'S MANUAL IS VERY VAGUE. AFTER STRUGGLING WITH THIS FOR OVER A YEAR NOW I CAN FINALLY DO IT MYSELF AND NOT HAVE TO DEPEND ON AMANDA HELP ME DO IT. I THINK YOU MY CAR THINKS YOU YOU'RE A LIFESAVER!
This is the best I've seen so far you can't believe the trouble I have been through. I bought the vehicle used and I couldn't figure out what was going on. It turns out someone had sheered off that little 7 mm bleeder and it looked like just a 10 mm screw. I bought the proper screw and bleeder on Amazon yesterday for 8 bucks. What a hassle.
How did you remove the broken bleeder screw??
Thanks Joe. I've been fussing with my 2001 Chevy Venture for three weeks. Had the thermostat changed and it kept over heating. I didn't even know of the bleeder valve. Learned them. Didn't know that I could bleed the system while the engine is running. I didn't want to take it back to the same mechanic so I have been attempting it myself. It's working. You have my gratitude!
Oh definitely need to bleed the system anytime you expose it to air besides the radiator cap
I did the water pump and bled the air from cooling system, went for a drive and everything was good.
When I stopped I could hear bubbles entering the overflow...
The next time I started it started to over heat again.. I've had to repeat process many times now.. what ammo missing?
@@JJRD222 did you get it handled ?
@@freshwatermechanic that engine ended up having a leaky head gasket and has gone from my possession.
My 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass's either OEM, Haynes manual or both said to attach a 1/4" hose to the screw. That would help with the bad squirting and the coolant leaking. Remember to keep it away from the hot places.
Thank you. Just bought a 2000 Pontiac Montana - very little heat. I'll do this before anything else to see what's up. I'll post again about what I find. Blessings to you and yours.
This video was helpful in how to bleed air from the coolant system. After the temperature reached 225 degrees he added more antifreeze to the radiator. You don't want to take the radiator cap off the with the car hot. You can get burned. Let the car cool down before opening the radiator cap.
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P loop p poo
I think he meant after the bleed process...tip off when cooled. He jumped around but yes on get radiator pressure 1st but breezed thru that on how. Then if a car wasn't getting radiator pressure he passed over. Say the pump or loss of pressure..nope..just showed pressure on cap..but yes to bleed the system that's how.
Joe, great upload. I did this to my 2000 Pontiac Montana after I did the thermostat. Bled system but still did not have heat. Come to find out the heater bypass pump was seized up. Took the pump off and disassembled and cleaned the remnants of the Dex-Cool that used to be in the van. I will agree with almost every experienced mechanic out there that says that Dex-Cool is garbage. It was actually like clay in the pump housing. Cleaned it out and pump spun freely and then I had great heat after bleeding again for about 10 minutes.. Again thanks for the upload.
thanks for watching
Look at the way your Radiator cap was designed for that specific vehicle. Every time you pour Coolant into the Radiator cap without a funnel; your practically spilling Coolant all over the place. Brilliant Engineering.
True. How could I have forgotten to mention that most important rule.
Just had to do this on my 95 grand prix after replacing the heater core. What a pain in the ass that was. Great video. Thanks man!
Joe you ARE THE MAN!
Wife's 98 Buick Century 3.1 is having over heating issues. After watching your video you confirmed my suspicions about it being airlocked...THANKS BROTHER!
Jeffrey dontyouwish thanks for watching glad i could help
JoeTheAutoGuy at the end what is the piece called that you said not to mess with
I took my car to jiffy lube to have my system bled and they used the other valve that you said in the video not to use. The next day my car over heated so bad that it blew a head gasket. Thank you for this video on the RIGHT way to bleed a coolant system.
homes24 it was previously flushed with green coolant, completely fine if your running all the same coolant , but yeah for everyone do not mix coolants its a huge no no.
What happens if you mixed a lil bit like half a glass or so ? Damn O Reilly's worker gave me the wrong one glad my 2000 Pontiac grand prix didnt need much but now my car is over heating and I dont k ow if that's the problem my fans are not working for 1 gonna check if the motor on them are still good but back to the coolant can I do what Scott did and flush it out with water ?? HELEP lol thanks
DexCool and green stuff should never mix. Together, they form a sludge that clogs cooling passages, resulting in poor coolant circulation. This can lead to head gasket failure or intake manifold failure. These engines do just fine with the green or the red. Just never a mix of the two in any portion.
Just found your video, waiting until I have the money to buy some anti-freeze and going to try to follow your instructions, wrote them down in order so I hope it works. I am not a mechanic by any means. My wife's aztek has been down for 14 months now while I taught myself how to change the thermostat, heater core, radiator, all the hoses, and the water pump. It is our only vehicle so I hope this works. If it does you will not only get my thanks on here but I will be throwing your name and link out on facebook too. If it doesn't work, no worries, I won't give you a bad review, I am not like that and don't blame others for my problems but you will get some promotion from me if you make my wife's Aztek work finally.
Jesse Woof glad to be of help, what was the initial reason it was down?
Not blowing heat and overheating. Took 11.5 hours to go 23 miles. Replaced thermostat 3 times, then ask in one shot did thermostat, radiator, heater core, water pump, all hoses, cleaned throttle body and coolant passage of throttle body. Took most if the year to learn how to do all of that but got it done. Was originally trying to bleed with both bleeders until I watched your video. Wrote down ask the steps in order, have watched it 3 times and after I get some antifreeze on the 3rd I'll watch it one more time before I go it and tackle it again. Hoping after all this work it's not the damn head gasket.
I have white smoke in start up but then it clears, I don't see or smell coolant at the exhaust, no coolant in my oil, and haven't noticed any oily film in my overflow reservoir do I am hoping it just needs to be bled properly.
Thanks for the great video. I feel I should warn whoever will be doing this for the first time to not open the bleeder valve too much or it will shoot out and get lost/ I speak from personal experience. Lol
i wish i read this comment 4 days ago!!
Thanks for the great video. My van was over heating and after bleeding the coolant system it never gets over the first line on the temp gauge. I was surprised how much air was in the system. Thanks again great job.
glad i could help
the other bleeder by the wp is the best one to use, its the highest point in the system, I keep both semi loose and open each one as I check then shut it back off without tighetneing, wait for a little pressure, do it again etc
Exactly. The bleeder by the thermostat is nice and all, but the job isn't finished until the one by the water pump has been bled also. Don't skip it!
Ash Miller Thanks! That’s all I needed to know. Cause on my Malibu that’s the only one I see 💁🏾♂️
thanks for the video. the info at the end was GOLD! I was just saying that you didn't say anything about the 2nd bleeder screw. then you said don't touch it or very bad day.
WHAT about when the WATER PUMP is changed? do you bleed the 2nd screw? Thanks
Joe, I am also perplexed by your comment about not touching the pump housing bleeder valve. If it causes such a "very bad day" by using it for what it is intended for, could you please elaborate a bit? Some of us older shade tree mechanics might want to or need to know.
no problem, that bleeder is for the initial fill, no pressure or heat , and coolant system is empty. you open that one and once fluid comes from it close it down , do not open it under any pressure or it will blow and if the engine is running it will blow like old faithful
Do you mean the coolant will blow out like old faithful? Sorry I'm slow. I was looking for the same answer
Very thorough and helpful video. The details are important in case you have a very stubborn coolant system. Thank you very much!
+krr711 your welcome thanks for watching
do not touch the bleeder valve on the left above the water pump, this will cause the coolant to purge like old faithful and cause burns to you
Only if you are doing it wrong.
The one at the water pump (left) is the one you bleed cold, but I still go back while bleeding the one at the thermostat housing (right). Once the thermostat is open and everything is hot/pressurized it will just squirt out the side. Though it could be at any of 360°, the bleed hole is still on the side. You shouldn’t be taking the bleed screw all the way out for it to squirt out the top.
Regarding the temp gauge markings: The Pontiac Montana/Oldsmobile Silhouette have a tachometer that the Chevrolet Venture doesn’t have, despite being that same van. That means they had to fill the empty space on the cluster with a bigger temperature gauge. Even with the smaller gauge, my Montana has 260°F at the top and 160°F at the bottom. That means you get exactly 100° in-between, so half-way is 160°+50°=210°F. I know it is accurate because just above half way is exactly where the water boiled when I did a coolant flush with water and cleaner (212°F).
Furthermore, that makes the 1/4 mark 160°+25°=185°, which is the exact spec for the stock thermostat. Sure enough, my thermostat opens up at exactly a quarter of the way. TStat housing bleeder starts shooting pressurized coolant and the upper radiator hose gets super hot.
I don’t know if this translates to the gauges without numeric markings but if your thermostat opens at a quarter of the way then that’s 185°F, half way should be 210°F, 3/4 should be 235°, and all the way should be 260°.
Of course, you can’t confirm this if you are having a problem with a stuck thermostat like I was but it’s good to know going forward.
someone please buy this guy a funnel
just didn't have my spill free at time of filming
a brain too
For god sake,,,a funnel please
I just lost it
Hey Joe, Thanks for the video, Replacing my 2000 Montana leaking water pump and will have to do this Bleed. Subscribed
thanks for the subscribe. glad i could help
Now that I've fixed my leak and fixed the AC I can bleed out. Never had to do this before. Thanks for the vid!
PeaceMarauder welcome , thanks for watching
Thanks brother and god bless! This video was very helpful.
Had it not been for your video I would have cracked open the other bleeder valve by the water pump and created a world of headaches for myself. Thats why it's always best to do my research! Thanks for the video Joe! You the man!
I had head gaskets replaced by a "friend" and he managed to forget a nut on one of the hose fittings when he put it back together. This video was more helpful than my "friend" was with how to get the air out of my coolant system after I fixed his mistake and tried to add coolant to what seemed like a full radiator. The car still had the "low coolant" light on and I knew something wasn't right.
sinborn41214 you should try replacing the head gaskets, you'll be looking for that friend.
Im gonna try this on my 2004 monte carlo when the sun comes up, i just had the coolant system flushed and it tried to over heat on the way home. Had no heat coming out the vents either so im gonna pray this is all it needs.
My car is just like yours and what a tempermental SOB that cooling system is! I had a helluva time getting it bled! Thanks for posting this vid. (I have to say...you do run your words together sumthin fierce). Thankfully there is a CC with ur vid. Happy Wrenching.
Man, Joe thanks so much for this video. I know this is a little old but I have a 2003 Chevy Impala I couldn't figure out why my car kept overheating after I just removed the radiator. After I bled the car like you said my car worked like a dream. Saved so much 💰 thanks man!!! Great video.
But Im Serious .thanks for help 15 minutes off and 25 on and it's bleed no leaks love it
Lol I wish I knew about that bleeder screw. I've been trying to let it bleed through the radiator cap. Limited success. Though another issue I've had is at times the coolant looks like it's a blown head or intake gasket, but clears up when cool. Aside from other bits in the system, it needs a flush... And I suspect a thermostat too. Has an engine code for not getting warm fast enough. But at the same time it can start to overheat. I'm going to guess stick thermostat for too cold and air for when it's too hot. Mines a 2003 buick century. It has the dual zone climate control thing which likes to short out keeping the ac from turning on
Awesome video! I had issues with my temperature not being hot and temperature going up or not going up and staying cold. I followed your directions to a T and it took awhile but it worked. Thank you so much!
good videos Joe - never knew about that bleeder screw there, been trying to bleed it through the heater hoses because they are the highest point on the engine. The head gaskets were shot already so I replaced them, then bled the system the correct way as you've shown. Thanks again!
DoozCoop welcome thanks for watching
On this cooling system is wery easy to do thanks for helping people out on this clear explanation
You sir are my mentor on troubleshooting from now on My car had a bad resevoir cap and it let all the anti-freeze drain out and I just seen your video and my car which ive had for 10yrs now is doing the same thing I was gonna drive it to the mechanic but I have the book and knowledge plus dont wanna ruin my heads so how long is this technique time wise?
takes anywear from 15 to 45 minutes just keep watching your colant level and its pretty simple , thanks for watching
Thanks. This is the only vehicle I've worked on that's had one of these.
Everycar's got these.
thankyou so much for this video. you saved me a big headache
Hey Joe. I replaced the thermostat. Now, I still do not have a heat in my oldsmobile silhouette. When I was checking coolant level I finally opened the radiator cap and antifreeze came out. I let it go till its stoped. I saw you put some coolant in the radiator that's the level , right? Is it the way of edding and checking coolant level? Even after edding some coolant indicator light came up says " check coolant level "" . How to do it right way to turn the indicator off?
I have been bleeding from the one you said not..thanks!
Yeah, it’s actually at a higher point than the thermostat housing. The one on the housing is what I crack when filling the radiator - when that one spews liquid, the rad is full. Then go to the one above the water pump and open it up until it spits water out, then refill the rad. Once those stop burping, start the car, let it warm up, bleed at the tstat housing again. The temp gauge should be just below halfway, just below boiling, the rad fans should be on low and the heat in the cabin will be pumping.
Thanks Joe...will try this. My Montana is overheating, so hopefully this will fix that.
Brian Herron ussually this is not the cause of overheating. It is when being performed after a service but i would perform a little more diag and get the system pressure tested
Might wanna check if the thermostat is opening and at what temp and/or the water pump not doing it job. Also can be a compromised head gasket/ warpage/ block cracked, clogged cooling system etc.
@@eliezerramosjr1017 Actually it was the head gaskets which were replaced shortly after I sent this message. You must be a VERY BUSY guy to take 5 years to reply to a comment on your channel!!
this man is a real mechanic.!!
Hi, glad someone works on these. I watched another video that suggested opening the bleeders as you cold refill so the coolant will push air out?
hanksgavin this works as well but usually i still get air trapped in it
At the end of the video, what is the component you said not to touch? My Impala looks to have a leak there and/or at the hose above it. Thanks for the educational video!
one question is rad cap on off or in vent position while bleeding
Jeez. I looked around for 20 minutes after replacing the water pump on my buick, did not expect the vent to be right on the top of the freaking engine... "^ Closes the bleeder screw with his bare ass fingers, with the engine running! Like a BOSS !^"
haha thanks for watching
joe, could you please explain why you should not touch the other bleeder screw? 9:48
esinde no aselera como es
I think it may be for the AC, but I'm not sure.
I am assuming this will fill the pump with air..
I am wondering the same thing...why should we avoid that bleeder valve?
Further up I read this from Joe:
"no problem, that bleeder is for the initial fill, no pressure or heat ,
and coolant system is empty. you open that one and once fluid comes from
it close it down , do not open it under any pressure or it will blow
and if the engine is running it will blow like old faithful"
its on the waterpump
Thank you Joe. Your video is excellent!
How long you have to do it. Ive been doing it almost 30 minutes and its nothing but air atm.
With the engine cold, how can you bleed air from the heater core and engine block with the thermostat closed?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Neil Williams coolant naturally flows through the heater core its on the bypass tubes for that reason if you start to get hear from the vents you know the coolant is flowing through and no air should be present
I highly recommend the Lisle Spill-Free Funnel for purging the system rather than tampering with the bleeders. I picked one up online for about $35 shipped and it was worth it because it's so fast, easy to use, reliable and not a drop of coolant is spilled or wasted. You simply begin with the engine cold and the car parked on an incline, jacked or on ramps to set the radiator as the cooling system's highest point, attaching the funnel to the radiator neck with the adapter fitting included with the kit and fillling the funnel halfway with coolant, heater turned on to its hottest setting, and watch the air bubbles rise to the surface of the funnel puddle and escape from the engine, mildly at first and then more aggressively once the thermostat opens. Then when the bubbles and gurgling stops, you're done. 15 minutes. Try it. God Bless.
DDEENY have had one at my job for years love it but didnt have it home on the day of filming but yes your right its a great tool i am editing a video on using one in the next couple weeks
sorry for late reply , and i would try bleeding it again to see if there is still air in the system
You sir, need a funnel. Good video, helped me out a bit.
yes i do ive been meaning to buy a spilll free funnel
What happens if you touch the other bleeder?
Cause you said causes a bad day
I opened it and it literally shot coolant so high up hit my hood and splashed everywhere so basically don't use that one.
Short and simple, great video man
this is life saver in winter time. good heat!!!
Yes indeed! thanks for watching
@@JoeTheAutoGuy you're welcome+ thank you also.
Buddy that was really good information because I'm about to do one of those tomorrow or the next day and I just subscribed to your Channel
ThanKS for watching !!!
Great info. I have one question. Was the radiator cap in the vent position or was it tight the whole time you were bleeding the air out the bleeder valve ?
Vent
JoeTheAutoGuy thank you for responding back to my comment. Respect.
No problem I try to answer comments as much as possible
Hey Joe 👋. Why not use the bleed line on passenger side and only driver side.
I have a 2003 Chevy Impala V6 3.8 and I parked on a hill to get get air bubbles out of the system. It worked without bleeding the hose.
I replaced my radiator today and I thought I got all the air out of the system but I'm not getting any heat out of the blower.
Do you think it's because I didn't bleed the line like you did or could it be something else??
awesome video btw! you're pretty good with one hand.lol
Good I'm going to look for it. On my 6.0 vertec I hope it has one I have that problem after changing water pump
lq4 doesn't have that problem...you need head gaskets. they bleed themselves.
Its reassuring to know all these motors have a squeal like mine does.
Every video i watch has that sound, so i assume its normal.
Gotta do water pump in my 03 aztek today i ran water all summer no prob winterized the aztek / antifreeze ! prob have'nt put 50 miles on it with antifreeze in it now it spewing right outta the pully !!
Thanks for sharing! Dude! Great help! 👌🏻👌🏻
If I had to do this head job again I would fill the cooling system at the heater core hose because its a pain to get the heater core filled.
Why bleeding the passenger side make for a bad day?
you could try it and let us know :D nah don't try it lol
While you're loosening the bleeder valve, is the radiator cap turned on all the way? If so, does the coolant get sucked out of the overflow tank, into the radiator, to displace the air that is bled out?
Thank you, the video was helpful.
Mine only has the one bleeder screw with only an expansion tank cap. Manual says to crank up and run to operating temp and then open the bleeder screw you just said would give us a hard day.. Does the bad day apply to me and my vehicle? Lol. Thanks.
car stop overheating I noticed the first few bleeds my a/c went from blowing cold to blowing hot after I kept bleeding it. (had it at hot like u stated to have it on in the video)
What kind of scan tool is that! I have a 2001 Chevrolet Lumina and I seem to can't find a scan tool that works?
Thanks will do. Have you ever done a video on replacing the timing chain on a 3.4L..mine sounds like it's toast!!
no video on that yet but it is one I want to do
Another great post I'm going to follow, except my radiator has no cap !!! Ill have to get a few more details on that. You should get a funnel mang! lol You have all these nice tools electronic torque wrenches and engine scanners... haha but no 3$ funnel
Phil Teke wasnt with me the day of filming lol, but i have a spill free funnel normally
Great video and thanks.
What if I'm getting nothing but air out of the bleeder?
Fluid level appear to be full
A the end you mention not to touch the water pump bleeder, why so?
InspiredGuitar1 bleed the system by opening the radiator cap (when its cold) and top off coolant, run the car at a accelerated idle about 1000-1400 rpm as the car heats up the antifreeze level will rise and when it gets to operating temperature or close shut the radiator cap and then open the bleed valve if it continues to run hot to get the stubborn air out. when it runs in the normal range then wait for it to cool down then open the cap (COLD) and top off coolant , if you touch the other bleeder it could blow off and burn you i did it once and it blew like old faithful
Thanks you got me going down the road.
tony urbanek thats great , glad i could help
This guy is good with these engines,WHT
Serious artist engines like LS engines lt engines what series are these engines???
And are they good engines??
To burp the system as easily as possible, would it help to lift any part of the car up in order to force air toward the bleeder?
Wait a minute so you can use the green coolant for this engine type? Cause i use dexcool and its the first time I've ever got smudge lookin shit around the radiator cap
You should stick with Dexcool. Switching or mixing them leads to lots of problems. I speak from experience.
If you FULLY flush the dexcool out you can use whatever you want. Dont mix different colors of coolant or bad things will happen. Apparently the orange universal coolant works with dexcool. I hope thebpeople from the 3 parrs stores in town know ehat they are talking about cuz im doing this with my impala right now and i only know the coolant is orange. No clue if it is universal or dexcool...
Is your rad fan blow toward the engine or toward the radiator?
All 2000s gm impala models .
Let me know thanks
David Solis the radiator fans are behind the radiator and pull air through the radiator and also blow air onto the front exhaust section. That's pretty much how most are setup, the fans have to blow or pull air towards the engine otherwise they would be fighting incoming air as you move down the road. The radiator fans not only cool the radiator but also have some effect of air cooling on the engine itself.
Turning the heat on doesn't help in my case because the heater fan, rear defrost and cruise control are disabled in recirc (fuses are good). This seems to be tied to the coolant level but is getting more common as time goes on: lately it has to get real cold to fire up the heat (and even that is flaky). How do I get around that?
I usually run the engine at 1500 rpm with the rad cap off. The coolant level will drop, add more. The t-stat will open, add more. Once the top rad hose is hot and the coolant doesn't drop anymore. YOU'RE DONE. Why make love to the job?
+Daniel Peters totally understand the bleeding procedure just sometimes these are a little stubborn and it helps to do it this way
yep bleed mine twice but forgot to have the heater on so it would be good for a day then overheat again also i was opening both bleeders
On my 97 lumina there is another bleed screw on other side of engine in front looks different then one seen here but works the same, was right there in front of me but never really acknowledged what it was cause looked totally different then one by thermostat this is to be bled of air also.
I think is why i dont have heat i have some heat but not alot in my 04 pontiac grand am i thought was heater core
what happens if you opened the bleeder valve that you sed could make for a bad day. I was told to use that one . Can i get air out with the valve on thermostat im doing it in a 3.4 L your video on the water pump helped alot got mine in and no leaks!
O and im having heat issues also after replacing water pump and its a closed system so i believe its air in system.
Joshua Lambert on the 3.4 some have the pressurized water reservoir run that with the cap offf until at operating temp accelerated idle ( 1200-1500 rpm) then watch your coolant level and fill to level line after it runs and sustains at operating temp 195-210 degrees then cap off and idel to see if it sustains temp and have full heat
Half to bleed when changing the radiatior and hoses and thermostat?
U should always make sure u dont have air in the cooling system
Have a 2006 equinox 3.4l. Is this bleeder valve located on the water pump? Is it on the water pump on these cars. Bf wants to confirm before proceeding. Thank you
Wait, why will the one on the left cause you a very bad day? Just curious. That one on the left wt the heater core line was the first one i noticed that lead me to the search and found this video lol
Cause we did a water pump and now i have no heat. Been bleeding old school with the cap on the radiator but no luck obviously
So for the bottom bolt on the thermostat housing on a 3.4 in a 01 aztec to get rid of the difficulties reaching it bending wrenchs an braking my hands i took a look.. REMOVE THE THROTEL BODY AN YOU HAVE FULL ACCESSES TO THE BOTOM BOLT.
Nice tip! Thanks for sharing!!
Bro, you know what you are doing, but why not wait until the spring/summer months? Coolant replacement can wait!!
InTheory Yes customers can never wait lol and they always need there car worked on at inconvenient times lol
Hey Joe, I totally removed my thermostat. When I do the bleeding process will the heat come on?
Thanks for the video! Do you know if the 02 Century 3.1 has bleeder in the same place? Is the cap just on part way but not all the way to lock it down in place while bleeding?
on what car you were working on?? I have oldsmobile silhouette 03. No heat, no a/c. Also, no overheating. Do I have the same pr8blem as your car or its just a thermostat. I em early bird, so I am sorry , but I just wanna go out and replace my thermostat but it's still dark. 5:30 am . Its cold and rainy but I need to fix it, anyway. Thanks for this video.
i wouldnt go replacing the thermostat unless your car is not warming up to temp. check the coolant level before attempting repair ypu might just be leaking down, Air conditioning is not related to the thermostat
I noticed you opened your radiator cap to add water after you opened and closed the bleeder valve. Is that why water didnt spray everywhere when you opened the cap? Can you just add water to the overflow canister instead?
the cap was on the vented position so the system never built pressure . when filling a non degas bottle setup you need to fill up the cap for the initial fill and bleed
if youve performed service on the cooling system drained radiator, intake gasket replacment, etc the cooling system needs to be bled on any car