Thank you. Look forward to an upcoming video on a bridge slotting and drilling fixture. I'm just completed the fixture now and will be putting that presentation together soon.
Thank you. I am a huge advocate of making your own tools whenever possible because they can be designed and fabricated to your own specifications and can be made to solve problems unique to your methods of work.
Very cool. I like simple (cause I'm a simple guy). But shouldn't we want to also measure at the front of the bridge? The strings are pulling at the back of the bridge and pushing the saddle down, so that would mean the bridge has a torque pressure wanting to twist it - up at the back and down at the front. The back measurement done with and without string tension tells us how far the back is coming up and that's great information to have but it wouldn't take much modification to your jig to also measure the front of the bridge. Then again maybe it would be redundant information since - what goes up must come down? You could replace the ruler with a digital height guage (a bit more money at $25 instead or $8 for the ruler) and mount it so it is turned 90 degrees so it will fit between the strings and now you can measure more accurately and at both the front and back of the bridge. This would allow you to calculate the angle of change as well as the distance. (See Trevor Gore's book, or David Hurd). It might seem a small difference but with such small amount those differences can be significant. The change in pressure generated would be an exponential change to the amount. Also for a slight increase in price (about $10) you can replace the wood bar with an aluminum bar - far less likely to be affected by humidity and more rigid than the wood piece.
Thanks for this very informative video. A question: what type of curvature measure, say with strings tuned to standard tuning, would be considered 'normal' and okay? I assume this is somewhat dependent on neck angle perhaps. Also, what is considered a good way to address this curvature if it it too much? Thanks.
I use this tool to determine how far a top rises when it's at full tension and include that information to help determine a neck angle when a neck is to be reset. As for top curvature, I can't answer that authoritatively, except to suggest that curvature is appropriate and is to be expected, even Tuttle beyond the designed dome of the top, but sudden kinking, or very localized bulging behind the bridge and sudden deflection in front of it suggest as problem. Too much curvature; If you mean bulging, deformation; that usually means that the top must be flattened ion the bridge area, a procedure that I am unqualified to perform or speak to. There are several videos on the subject. As for too much dome in the top, there is a relationship between top radius and neck angle. As doming increases, so must neck angle and and all of that geometry must be included in determining the neck angle. I hope this answers your questions adequately.
Cool tool build...
Thanks!
Thank you. Look forward to an upcoming video on a bridge slotting and drilling fixture. I'm just completed the fixture now and will be putting that presentation together soon.
Nice and simple, thanks.
Thank you. I am a huge advocate of making your own tools whenever possible because they can be designed and fabricated to your own specifications and can be made to solve problems unique to your methods of work.
@@thepragmaticluthier Good way to approach things. Talking problem solving a step farther. I think that’ll inspire me to make more of my own.
Fantastic tool! Great info. But I think your camera is recording things backwards. That bridge and big E string are on the wrong side!
It's a left handed guitar.
Very cool. I like simple (cause I'm a simple guy). But shouldn't we want to also measure at the front of the bridge? The strings are pulling at the back of the bridge and pushing the saddle down, so that would mean the bridge has a torque pressure wanting to twist it - up at the back and down at the front. The back measurement done with and without string tension tells us how far the back is coming up and that's great information to have but it wouldn't take much modification to your jig to also measure the front of the bridge. Then again maybe it would be redundant information since - what goes up must come down?
You could replace the ruler with a digital height guage (a bit more money at $25 instead or $8 for the ruler) and mount it so it is turned 90 degrees so it will fit between the strings and now you can measure more accurately and at both the front and back of the bridge. This would allow you to calculate the angle of change as well as the distance. (See Trevor Gore's book, or David Hurd). It might seem a small difference but with such small amount those differences can be significant. The change in pressure generated would be an exponential change to the amount. Also for a slight increase in price (about $10) you can replace the wood bar with an aluminum bar - far less likely to be affected by humidity and more rigid than the wood piece.
Thank you.
Thanks for this very informative video. A question: what type of curvature measure, say with strings tuned to standard tuning, would be considered 'normal' and okay? I assume this is somewhat dependent on neck angle perhaps. Also, what is considered a good way to address this curvature if it it too much? Thanks.
I use this tool to determine how far a top rises when it's at full tension and include that information to help determine a neck angle when a neck is to be reset. As for top curvature, I can't answer that authoritatively, except to suggest that curvature is appropriate and is to be expected, even Tuttle beyond the designed dome of the top, but sudden kinking, or very localized bulging behind the bridge and sudden deflection in front of it suggest as problem. Too much curvature; If you mean bulging, deformation; that usually means that the top must be flattened ion the bridge area, a procedure that I am unqualified to perform or speak to. There are several videos on the subject. As for too much dome in the top, there is a relationship between top radius and neck angle. As doming increases, so must neck angle and and all of that geometry must be included in determining the neck angle. I hope this answers your questions adequately.
@@thepragmaticluthier thanks very much for this information - I really appreciate it. Cheers.