Thank you. Making your own tools is rewarding and your own tools are always designed to reflect your own work. Mom told me not to copy someone els's homework..
My shaper is a "Bridgewood", 2hp As shapers go, it's toward the lower end with respect to power and size. I much prefer a shaper over ANY router table because a shaper spins slower, with greater concentricity and is easier on a carbide edge.
Thank you. I use this same style of jig to shape upper cross struts, arch braces, taper fingerboards and more. They're often very easy to make and so useful. Plus, I love making tools and jigs.
My shaper is a "Bridgewood", imported by Wilke Machine Co. Unfortunately, Wilke discontinued their Bridgewood line several years ago. It is a 2HP machine, perfect size for my applications, millwork, door frames and panels as well as guitar making. In this video, I am running a 3/4" spindle with a 2 1/2" straight cutter and bearing. Jet used to offer this same shaper, but I don't believe it's offered currently.
@@thepragmaticluthier yeah ive seen the Jet her in Australia....ive got a huge 5 hp spindle molder that is way to intimidating! somethink like yours would be great for profiling neck blanks....ill keep looking! love your work ...and your leftyness!!
After you make the one half, flip the bridge and use it to cut the other half of the jig. The jig now can make the whole profile without removing/flipping the bridge. This would dedicate the jig to a specific style/size, but it’ll be a lot quicker. Way less removing and flipping.
That would work, but making both sides of the jig perfectly symmetrical is not a matter of flipping anything. You can't use the bridge to make the jig. That must be bandsawn and carefully refined to the desired shape. More importantly, notice that the jig works on its right hand end so that the shaper is cutting predominantly with the grain of the blank. If the the shaper was used to cut the left side, it would be working against the grain, thereby possibly (and probably) tearing it. There is a way to make the jig perfectly symmetrical, however. Make on half of the jig at double thickness, split that in half and joint the two have together; overly complicated, especially considering the downside of shaping on the left side of the bridge.
@@thepragmaticluthier I make many things on the router table. Yes tear out can be an issue, but the newer double shear bits are great. Also yes using the bridge would produce it symmetrical mirror image. The double shear top and bottom bearing bit can be used to make the first cut. Flip the half cut bridge use the top bearing to ride on the bridge while cutting the jig. Jig is now symmetrical to a known centerline. When you band saw the waste off there is very little material for the bit to remove. And if you are worried about tearout climb cut. The bit won’t grab as there is very little material being removed. I can see with the shaper your concerns, but with the newer router bit configurations those are greatly reduced.
Very nice. For people looking to make that jig that maybe don't have large stock laying around, they could go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy a short piece of hand rail, (wood), and cut and make the handles.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
That's a great way and simple. Love it.
Thank you. Making your own tools is rewarding and your own tools are always designed to reflect your own work. Mom told me not to copy someone els's homework..
Nice. And that shaper is a monster!
My shaper is a "Bridgewood", 2hp As shapers go, it's toward the lower end with respect to power and size. I much prefer a shaper over ANY router table because a shaper spins slower, with greater concentricity and is easier on a carbide edge.
That's a great tool!
Niiiiiice. I dig the simplicity and the efficiency. Those big handle blocks look like they’d be easy to handle for those of us with hand problems
Thank you. I use this same style of jig to shape upper cross struts, arch braces, taper fingerboards and more. They're often very easy to make and so useful. Plus, I love making tools and jigs.
@@thepragmaticluthier do you ever watch old episodes of new Yankee workshop and just shout at the screen “damnit norm, just use a chisel!” Lol I do
Love it...thanks. Now my bridge sides won't be close, they'll be identical.
Sweet! It doesn't get easier than that! Any tips on making classical guitar bridges?
I wish I did. They'e time consuming and do not easily lend themselves to much automation.
that shaper !......what brand is it?....... and please show us how you set it up!
My shaper is a "Bridgewood", imported by Wilke Machine Co. Unfortunately, Wilke discontinued their Bridgewood line several years ago. It is a 2HP machine, perfect size for my applications, millwork, door frames and panels as well as guitar making. In this video, I am running a 3/4" spindle with a 2 1/2" straight cutter and bearing. Jet used to offer this same shaper, but I don't believe it's offered currently.
@@thepragmaticluthier yeah ive seen the Jet her in Australia....ive got a huge 5 hp spindle molder that is way to intimidating!
somethink like yours would be great for profiling neck blanks....ill keep looking!
love your work ...and your leftyness!!
After you make the one half, flip the bridge and use it to cut the other half of the jig. The jig now can make the whole profile without removing/flipping the bridge. This would dedicate the jig to a specific style/size, but it’ll be a lot quicker. Way less removing and flipping.
That would work, but making both sides of the jig perfectly symmetrical is not a matter of flipping anything. You can't use the bridge to make the jig. That must be bandsawn and carefully refined to the desired shape. More importantly, notice that the jig works on its right hand end so that the shaper is cutting predominantly with the grain of the blank. If the the shaper was used to cut the left side, it would be working against the grain, thereby possibly (and probably) tearing it. There is a way to make the jig perfectly symmetrical, however. Make on half of the jig at double thickness, split that in half and joint the two have together; overly complicated, especially considering the downside of shaping on the left side of the bridge.
@@thepragmaticluthier I make many things on the router table. Yes tear out can be an issue, but the newer double shear bits are great. Also yes using the bridge would produce it symmetrical mirror image. The double shear top and bottom bearing bit can be used to make the first cut. Flip the half cut bridge use the top bearing to ride on the bridge while cutting the jig. Jig is now symmetrical to a known centerline. When you band saw the waste off there is very little material for the bit to remove. And if you are worried about tearout climb cut. The bit won’t grab as there is very little material being removed. I can see with the shaper your concerns, but with the newer router bit configurations those are greatly reduced.
Very nice. For people looking to make that jig that maybe don't have large stock laying around, they could go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy a short piece of hand rail, (wood), and cut and make the handles.
Scraps can be laminated, to produce larger pieces.
Buy handrail? Foolish expense. 😁✌🖖