As a welder and fabricator those corroded spots give me reason for pause. I do believe I would have a large bilge pump ready and battery backup on it. I fear those pin holes are the least of your worries. Any spray on liner material will only trap moisture beneath and hide small issues until they are larger. At some point you are going to have to replace the bad areas with new sheet. Cool boat though, a lot of thought and work has made for a useful platform. Looking forward to seeing your next video. Cheers Terry from South Carolina USA
First thought..OMG. Never get under a lifted boat. You were lucky. Reposition the supports and put the boat back down. Then paint the exposed areas. Wow!
I saw that but I was thinking to jack it up and putting it on another set of supports and doing whatever painting and fixing was required safely and without having to pay for extra time renting that crane.. edit: Since many people were commenting on the safety issues, I was focusing on the monetary issue of having a very expensive mobile crane hold a boat uo in the air so you could hurriedly paint a couple of spots. I don't know if it hung there long enough for the paint to properly dry$$$. I would expect a yard like this to have plenty of hydraulic jacks and stacking blocks to set up replacement support points and lift the boat an inch or two remove the old blocks and lower to the new supports, one end at a time. That bow thruster design is horrific. It will produce a tremendous amount of drag and it protrudes below the bottom of the boat. If you hit anything or run aground, you might rip the hull wide open. Have you never seen a bow thruster on another boat?
This is the first time I have ever seen one of your videos. There are a lot of negative comments. I have a engineering degree, and I say, "You did an excellent job" Be proud of your work, and don't pay any attention to the "oh its not perfect" people. I would have you work for me. Sometimes, good is good enough. Again, great job!
If it was me, I would overplate, weld, or "truck bed liner" spray the interior of the hull. Having those pinholes leaking means there's probably some amount of other places that are close to breaking through. Running two layers of silicon bronze with a MIG would work - but man, that would be pricey and time consuming. I'm looking forward to see what great things you have in store coming up!
The truck bed liner is some fantastic stuff!!!! I would use something to turn all the rust first. The use the truck bed liner. I used Raptor liner on my entire truck!! You can brush, roll or spray it on!!
The ONLY way to fix leaks in a steel hull is to cut the thin, leaking area out and insert a new piece of plate. Putting a "bandaid" over a leak is an emergency fix. Dont even consider using spray bed liner, you will hate trying to remove it so the steel is weldable and you would have to sandblast the rust off anyway before using it. Might as well do it right and replace the steel. Ultrasound inspect the hull and replace the rusted, thin sections. Journeyman ship fitter since 1976 so I have seen a few rusty boats.
@@kolsen6330 totally agree, ultrasound inspection to give an overall picture of thickness of the shell plate, and I would suspect, going my the level of lamination seen in places on the inside that the plate will be highly corroded to the point of being dangerous, I wouldn’t want to hit it with a needle gun, that’s for sure , certainly fixable with the right skills but not a job for an amateur…… huge expensive job.. but kudos to him for keeping her afloat and good luck to him, and I’m not being facetious when I say that….
I just love your odd projects! They give tons of opportunities to be self reliant from an ever crazier society. All the best to you and thanx for sharing.
Well he already has a living space... So I do not think that he is going to use that space for more boatliving space. More likely he is going to use that space for repairs and to have fun. (also he is going to use the space under deck for storage. Most likely for fuel. ... We may see some voyages into places that have lower fuel prices?)
@@rolands.6439 It is ALWAYS good to have a redundant or backup living space... or other space or even a technical space. Boat life is not always fair winds and following seas - even on a river or lake!
@@drx1xym154 Well you know that he has a boat that he has lived on in the past with a similiar but smaller platform alongside it? The new platform is just much bigger and has 2 engines to propel it. So I would imagine that things will be more of the same and that the new boat will be used as a staging area for what ever new activities are coming up next!
if he builds from the deck up, its a major mistake imo. he should take advantage of the hull to deck distance and incorporate that height onto the overal houseboat height. why? because he will get better insulation (obvisouly he will have to foam the hull bottom and hull topsides), less windage (better steerage) and smaller heat loss, because half of the walls will be within the hull topsides. bringing everything down makes building a second floor or mezzanine also a reality at a lower final height, which also helps in keeping a lower centre of gravity. by using the hull-deck space he can incorporate all needed tanks into the cabinetry. making for an easier access in the future. that transom is just he most ugly thing ive seen but hey, to each his own, it is going to work, ive no doubts about it, but it detracts from the overall shape. the bow thruster is a good idea but an unccomplished execution. rather have 2 smaller thrusters at each side, than that mammoth of a hole in the hull, and a literal vaccuum cleaner, sucking debris from side to side with that heavy protection gace which will be just another lump of metal to go rusty
One thing I learned about barge's after working as a commercial diver in the gulf of Mexico, is always have some splash zone on board. Also if you take on water, and don't discover it right away, and you will with a old barge, you can still weld underwater. Prepare some rod's ahead of time..Dip some 7018's in wax/paraffin and reverse the polarity so the stinger is neg and the ground pos. As long as you are wearing rubber boots and rubber gloves and aren't wet on your skin you can patch up a hole or tear. But definitely have some splash zone on that boat. Followed your channel from the start and I'm impressed so far. Keep up the good work 👍 -Dennis
6010 works good underwater too. If you have some old 6010 that had gotten wet and doesn't want to run, dip a hand full in water and run it before it dries. It will run like new rod. Dont let the inspector see you do it tho, causes hydrogen embrittlement.
maybe worth doing a Ultrasonic thickness testing of hull plates at some stage, you don't want those small corrosion holes that eventually might sink the hull.
Seems like a very decent hard working guy with a dream. He does electronics and wiring well. On the other hand the half finished projects and ad hoc engineering leaves lots to be desired. There are several channels where things are done to a real standard and the viewer can learn ways of doing things correctly. I wish him luck, he will need it.
what a amount of work 👍 l guess my mistake was l dealed always with smaller boats . good job man .always fun to watch . cheers from Mannheim btw . your english is brilliant for a ( l guess) German ✌️
Wow great work. Especially with a crazy deadline looming! Your work is amazing an the skills your learning from this will make you $$ down the road!! As you travel you can create an income as you go! The barge is amazing the work you've done is nothing short of stellar!! Thanks for sharing your life with us!! ✌🏼💗😊🛥️🚤
Self tapping screws are great. The sheet metal isn't doing anything for hydrodynamics but it will help to keep crap out. Nice to see it out!! Don't doubt for a second it's going to be a good boat!!
Slightly disagree. The transom would be a very good break without the sheets, they probably help a little although at expected speeds does not matter much.
I'm just so impressed with ur fabrications and the skill in which u built them. I had the biggest smile when Bargy went into the water. I am concerned though with how thin the steel is in some places on the hull. Maybe u will work something out later. Really enjoy ur channel, Thankyou for sharing. 🇦🇺🌈🤣
Ich sehe mir mit Begeisterung deine Videos an . Es gibt immer was zu lernen , was ich noch nicht gelernt oder verstanden habe, ist die Sache mit dem Rost . Im aktuellen Video ist gut zu sehen dass der Rammschutz um das Bugstrahlruder gut ausgeführt ist und die 4kantrohre mit einer Befestigungslasche halbwegs dicht sind . Nun verstehe ich das seitliche Gitter zum Schutz davor etwas einzusaugen und die dadurch entstehenden Defekten , aber warum wurde das mit Selbstschneidenden Schrauben befestigt? Das läuft doch voll mit Wasser und gamelt weg . Ebenfalls das verzinkte Blech . Ich verstehe das nicht . Oder bildet sich mit der Zeit eine Art Belag der vor Rost schützt ?
thin layer of epoxy followed by a very long cure time then several thin epoxy skim coats followed by anti fouling coating. We used TotalBoat SPARTAN MULTI-SEASON ANTIFOULING PAINT in our boat as we rode in brackish to salt ocean waters.
Most of the micro holes and leaking seams will close themselves within a week or so. We had the same phenomenon on our little ship. I would not recommend welding on the hull below the waterline while the boat is in the water. With your old steel and rivets there is a chance, not as small as you might think, that something opens up. Sometimes you have imperfections within the steels and when you weld next to them the just leave you with a big hole and loads of water coming in.
@08:19 Galvanized steel. That is steel with a thin layer of zink. (probably the same as your grille). Zink is is used as a sacrificial metal to protect the steel....🤓 This means that it won't be long before it is gone. This leaves you with unprotected steel!🤔
The galvanized sheet steel will corrode in any area you cut or drill into it. Galvanizing is a surface coating so if the surface is damaged or cut it will be unprotected.
A bolt should stick 1/2 the dia. past the nut end especially with a nylock type. Bolt treads aren't cut they're rolled on to discourage fracture points. My father was an engineer crossed trained as a machinist. Enjoy your videos.
Nice work looks great in the water and Crane Operator did excellent job. For a peice of steel over 100 years old she held up well and those leaks honestly nothing considering her age. Some rust converter all over her insides and epoxy paint she will be fine. Andy from Sailing Melody as he was painting in cooler weather has used a paint they use on oil rigs ie specially designed for cool conditions might be worth a look. Anyhoo keep at it look forward to the next vid ;0)
To keep the interior from rusting put in a dehumidifier! Big steel bridges are kept in shape this way so it's a proven method. The Öresunds bridge between Denmark and sweden is not painted on the inside Just kept on low level of air moisture content so that the steel cant corrode. When you are done with shecking for pinhole corrosion , made interior you can sandblast and paint with ordinary paint. Do not spray insulate the hull on the inside especially not with Pu based foam if you make a interior in the hull .This will make any future welding very problematic. The foam( or any left overs of it around in your heat zone) will give away toxic isosynate when heated starting as low as 100 degrees. And if you acidently ignite it the foam the hole inside will burn out totally. Probably ruining your freeboard exterior paint in the process. I know a guy that acidently ignited the insulation foam in his steel boat with some sparks of a angel grinder ,the hull survived but the paint and all interior/ electronics/ stuff was at totall loss. Basically just to sand blast the hull and start over again.
Looking at that vast space below the deck that may still possibly leak, would it not be worth pumping that void full of expanding foam like they use to insulate lofts ?? would certainly be water tight and give you piece of mind ??, loving your project by the way
Those cranes make me nervous we used them a lot moving machinery, the broken screww you should have used vice grips (locking pliers) and unscrewed it and use a new screw what is your plan for the pontoon
G'day Crew, Great episode, This vessel is comming along very nicely, the opportunity to design & create a vessel that suits your needs is only limited by the imagination. In time ,this could become your greatest masterpiece yet . Really looking forward to the next video. Respect ...!
The steel crackles not in excitement, but under the stress. I wonder, if the lifting did not create permanent sagging of the bow and stern parts, as well as some fractures in the boat body.
Nice work on your barge. Your going to have a floating city out in that river. Does the city tax you being anchored out there? And does the government tax your boats by the listed hp and size of the engine? I noticed the other boat has a 4 cylinder. Thanks and stay dry my floating German friend. 😉😃
If there is a pinhole leak you need to replace the entire area all the steel around that leak is probably 0.5 mm thick id be wary if i were you and you need finer mesh around that thruster the holes in the mesh should be no larger than the smallest space between the blades that mesh is asking trouble from the first piece of driftwood to get sucked in
"Other than the holes which spell immediate danger and a massive risk to safety and integrity the hull is watertight but with holes in...." I can't believe he actually said that... I mean he didn't say it, but he should have...
You know as big as the boat is you should invest in two of those ox diesel outboard engines. They have had great reviews and they are really fuel ⛽ efficient and they would push it along good
Dear MFB guy I really don't want to destroy your dreams but 😱 the pinholes made me worry a lot. Maybe the old steel/iron sheets of the barge bottom have desintegrated a lot more than it's visionable. I guess that only a firm inspection with a special metal thickness measuring device will give you safety. For instance Sailing Melody did this with their abandoned steel sailing boat and had some surprising results. I highly recommend that you do the same for your own safety. Thanks in advance for consideration. Best regards, luck, health and wisdom.
I haven't read all the comments and you might have addressed the matter already but I saw a loose 12mm bolt on the motor mount just above the plate you mounted. Time stamp 11:34.
that us what we call a "bakschuit" , its to be used in towns and shallow waters to transport any kind of freight. Welding a frame for outboards and a skeleton for a chickenshed makes it only more useless
It appears you may want to lower the engine / prop trim slightly , both motors seem to be pushing/ thrusting too near the motors themselves , these propulsion bubbles ,if visible at all should be more like 10-12 feet . I believe 6:17 you’ll get more push out of the motors .
Those microholes arent microholes, They probably are pit corrosion with a layer of thick rust. and pit corrosion hardly is on a single place. Do check the surrounding areas, because it will bite you in the ass. Better get a good tube of chaulk (polymax and alike) and some steel plates on hand, just in case Been there done that.
As everybody says .. you should have jacked the boat up even with hammer, wedge and shims, to move the blocks so prepare, prime and AF and let it all dry before launch. 2. Crane driver should have positioned centre to lift at a minimum. When I have done launches with cranes (many) I always make the water side lift close than the shore side. If you can pick it up 1cm without tipping the crane then you can put it down the other side over water as that is nearer. 3. As they say, bow thruster is horrendous. Thin galvanised sheet AF on one side only will corrode very fast. You have no AF on the thruster props so they will get fouled and with the grill in the way you will not be able to get to them to clean by diving :-( Finally from me.. a small one, but always install a bolt from top to bottom so that when the nut vibrates off the bolt cannot drop out.
Nice work and congrats on the successful launch of your barge. Question...did you apply paint to all the holes you drilled into the steel before bolting everything in place. If you didn't, that could be a great place for rust to start forming.
I saw the little suggested pic of this video and thought cute..maybe i will build one like that.....then click...Thats Huge!!!!!! Any comments that criticise...wheres your monster barge!!! epic sir!
That mount for the engines is massive, do you think it needed to be so heavy duty? It is only a river boat after all and won't see huge ocean seas or will it?. It looks very agricultural, over engineered and heavy. Also the bow thruster arrangement looks huge and vulnerable to damage, did you get any input from a marine engineer or boat builder?
I've watched your vids since day 1 and can I say how cool they are, now you have the big boat when its finished what are you gonna do with the little one? it would be a shame to sell it after all the work youve done, I remember when it was first opened up in the winter, how far you have come, well done mate !!
So happy you're still alive after seeing the boat hanging straight above you! And also happy to see it's moving at the end! How much does the thing weigh though?
As a welder and fabricator those corroded spots give me reason for pause. I do believe I would have a large bilge pump ready and battery backup on it. I fear those pin holes are the least of your worries.
Any spray on liner material will only trap moisture beneath and hide small issues until they are larger.
At some point you are going to have to replace the bad areas with new sheet.
Cool boat though, a lot of thought and work has made for a useful platform.
Looking forward to seeing your next video.
Cheers
Terry from South Carolina USA
I dont have any of those qualifications but common sense made me think the same thing. Also won't those "patches" also trap moisture ?
First thought..OMG.
Never get under a lifted boat. You were lucky. Reposition the supports and put the boat back down. Then paint the exposed areas. Wow!
About to say the same. Underneath a suspended load never ever do that. Would have been instant dismissal anyone when I worked in construction.
Hahahaha okay osha
I saw that but I was thinking to jack it up and putting it on another set of supports and doing whatever painting and fixing was required safely and without having to pay for extra time renting that crane..
edit: Since many people were commenting on the safety issues, I was focusing on the monetary issue of having a very expensive mobile crane hold a boat uo in the air so you could hurriedly paint a couple of spots. I don't know if it hung there long enough for the paint to properly dry$$$. I would expect a yard like this to have plenty of hydraulic jacks and stacking blocks to set up replacement support points and lift the boat an inch or two remove the old blocks and lower to the new supports, one end at a time.
That bow thruster design is horrific. It will produce a tremendous amount of drag and it protrudes below the bottom of the boat. If you hit anything or run aground, you might rip the hull wide open. Have you never seen a bow thruster on another boat?
After 40 years in construction, that was my first thought too. Although Germany always seemed to be a bit lapse on safety matters compared to the UK.
Never ever get under a suspended load.never.
This is the first time I have ever seen one of your videos. There are a lot of negative comments. I have a engineering degree, and I say, "You did an excellent job" Be proud of your work, and don't pay any attention to the "oh its not perfect" people. I would have you work for me. Sometimes, good is good enough. Again, great job!
Great that you have Huey helicopter sound effects for your drone! 😂👍🚁🚁
If it was me, I would overplate, weld, or "truck bed liner" spray the interior of the hull. Having those pinholes leaking means there's probably some amount of other places that are close to breaking through. Running two layers of silicon bronze with a MIG would work - but man, that would be pricey and time consuming. I'm looking forward to see what great things you have in store coming up!
Tells me the haul steel is very thin in lots of places. At least he is not going out into the ocean......
The truck bed liner is some fantastic stuff!!!! I would use something to turn all the rust first. The use the truck bed liner. I used Raptor liner on my entire truck!! You can brush, roll or spray it on!!
Spraying the inside won’t fix it. Spraying the outside might, but only if completely impermeable to water
The ONLY way to fix leaks in a steel hull is to cut the thin, leaking area out and insert a new piece of plate. Putting a "bandaid" over a leak is an emergency fix. Dont even consider using spray bed liner, you will hate trying to remove it so the steel is weldable and you would have to sandblast the rust off anyway before using it. Might as well do it right and replace the steel. Ultrasound inspect the hull and replace the rusted, thin sections. Journeyman ship fitter since 1976 so I have seen a few rusty boats.
@@kolsen6330 totally agree, ultrasound inspection to give an overall picture of thickness of the shell plate, and I would suspect, going my the level of lamination seen in places on the inside that the plate will be highly corroded to the point of being dangerous, I wouldn’t want to hit it with a needle gun, that’s for sure , certainly fixable with the right skills but not a job for an amateur…… huge expensive job.. but kudos to him for keeping her afloat and good luck to him, and I’m not being facetious when I say that….
I just love your odd projects! They give tons of opportunities to be self reliant from an ever crazier society. All the best to you and thanx for sharing.
The bow thruster cage will also need close monitoring as water will seep into the box section from the bolts drilled into them.
Looking so good so far
Good luck! Very exciting and will follow your adventures. Cheers from Canada.
Barge boat with outboard motors, NICE! - easily replaced, take up no inboard room...good for you.
Excellent remedy for reducing drag on the transom. Beautiful fabrication, can't wait for you to give her some throttle...
Unless they end up turning into two great buckets and make it worse! Will be interesting to see which of the two prove to be the case.
I am really looking forward to seeing what you are going to build on the deck, you have plenty of space for a really good houseboat.
Well he already has a living space... So I do not think that he is going to use that space for more boatliving space. More likely he is going to use that space for repairs and to have fun. (also he is going to use the space under deck for storage. Most likely for fuel. ... We may see some voyages into places that have lower fuel prices?)
@@rolands.6439 It is ALWAYS good to have a redundant or backup living space... or other space or even a technical space. Boat life is not always fair winds and following seas - even on a river or lake!
@@drx1xym154
Well you know that he has a boat that he has lived on in the past with a similiar but smaller platform alongside it?
The new platform is just much bigger and has 2 engines to propel it. So I would imagine that things will be more of the same and that the new boat will be used as a staging area for what ever new activities are coming up next!
if he builds from the deck up, its a major mistake imo. he should take advantage of the hull to deck distance and incorporate that height onto the overal houseboat height. why? because he will get better insulation (obvisouly he will have to foam the hull bottom and hull topsides), less windage (better steerage) and smaller heat loss, because half of the walls will be within the hull topsides. bringing everything down makes building a second floor or mezzanine also a reality at a lower final height, which also helps in keeping a lower centre of gravity. by using the hull-deck space he can incorporate all needed tanks into the cabinetry. making for an easier access in the future. that transom is just he most ugly thing ive seen but hey, to each his own, it is going to work, ive no doubts about it, but it detracts from the overall shape. the bow thruster is a good idea but an unccomplished execution. rather have 2 smaller thrusters at each side, than that mammoth of a hole in the hull, and a literal vaccuum cleaner, sucking debris from side to side with that heavy protection gace which will be just another lump of metal to go rusty
One thing I learned about barge's after working as a commercial diver in the gulf of Mexico, is always have some splash zone on board. Also if you take on water, and don't discover it right away, and you will with a old barge, you can still weld underwater. Prepare some rod's ahead of time..Dip some 7018's in wax/paraffin and reverse the polarity so the stinger is neg and the ground pos. As long as you are wearing rubber boots and rubber gloves and aren't wet on your skin you can patch up a hole or tear. But definitely have some splash zone on that boat. Followed your channel from the start and I'm impressed so far. Keep up the good work 👍 -Dennis
6010 works good underwater too. If you have some old 6010 that had gotten wet and doesn't want to run, dip a hand full in water and run it before it dries. It will run like new rod. Dont let the inspector see you do it tho, causes hydrogen embrittlement.
I would certainly make it impossible too flip ,great idea so many uses.
Really well done! You have created yet another fabulous modified craft. Fantastic work and thanks so much for sharing your adventures with us 👍👍👍
maybe worth doing a Ultrasonic thickness testing of hull plates at some stage, you don't want those small corrosion holes that eventually might sink the hull.
was thinking exactly the same
The project is looking incredible! I can’t wait to see your plans for the onboard structure.
Nothing better than seeing a young, hard working guy accomplishing small steps in achieving your goal!
@Matt Taylor Nope. I was born in Montreal but later moved to Colorado.
As told you before, good you made those rasters on the bow trust.
Great video, looking forward to the next one!
Seems like a very decent hard working guy with a dream. He does electronics and wiring well. On the other hand the half finished projects and ad hoc engineering leaves lots to be desired. There are several channels where things are done to a real standard and the viewer can learn ways of doing things correctly. I wish him luck, he will need it.
what a amount of work 👍 l guess my mistake was l dealed always with smaller boats . good job man .always fun to watch . cheers from Mannheim
btw . your english is brilliant for a ( l guess) German ✌️
Blood sweat n tears….success atlas…..job well done….
This video is missing from your "All videos" Playlist. I am enjoying seeing all your work.
Wow great work. Especially with a crazy deadline looming! Your work is amazing an the skills your learning from this will make you $$ down the road!! As you travel you can create an income as you go! The barge is amazing the work you've done is nothing short of stellar!!
Thanks for sharing your life with us!! ✌🏼💗😊🛥️🚤
My dream is to own a boat, so I saw it for the first time two years ago, and I commend you for your efforts over the past two years.
Self tapping screws are great. The sheet metal isn't doing anything for hydrodynamics but it will help to keep crap out. Nice to see it out!! Don't doubt for a second it's going to be a good boat!!
Slightly disagree. The transom would be a very good break without the sheets, they probably help a little although at expected speeds does not matter much.
@@XSAILOR65 maybe he was talking about the bow thruster housing
@@ahdash4998 Yes, You are right, can be so!
Game of thrones is nothing against the excitement and anticipation for finally seeing the mega-barge running under its own power
This project is so cool ! Keep up with your awesome work!
I'm just so impressed with ur fabrications and the skill in which u built them. I had the biggest smile when Bargy went into the water. I am concerned though with how thin the steel is in some places on the hull. Maybe u will work something out later. Really enjoy ur channel, Thankyou for sharing. 🇦🇺🌈🤣
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work. Looking forward to the trials.😀👍⛵️
Ich sehe mir mit Begeisterung deine Videos an . Es gibt immer was zu lernen , was ich noch nicht gelernt oder verstanden habe, ist die Sache mit dem Rost .
Im aktuellen Video ist gut zu sehen dass der Rammschutz um das Bugstrahlruder gut ausgeführt ist und die 4kantrohre mit einer Befestigungslasche halbwegs dicht sind . Nun verstehe ich das seitliche Gitter zum Schutz davor etwas einzusaugen und die dadurch entstehenden Defekten , aber warum wurde das mit Selbstschneidenden Schrauben befestigt? Das läuft doch voll mit Wasser und gamelt weg . Ebenfalls das verzinkte Blech .
Ich verstehe das nicht .
Oder bildet sich mit der Zeit eine Art Belag der vor Rost schützt ?
thin layer of epoxy followed by a very long cure time then several thin epoxy skim coats followed by anti fouling coating. We used TotalBoat SPARTAN MULTI-SEASON ANTIFOULING PAINT in our boat as we rode in brackish to salt ocean waters.
Awesome work. You must have a great feeling of job satisfaction. Excellent!
Seen far too many cranes fail to work under the barge while hanging like that. 😖
Impressive! I am curious to see it moving under her own power. Keep it up!
Most of the micro holes and leaking seams will close themselves within a week or so. We had the same phenomenon on our little ship. I would not recommend welding on the hull below the waterline while the boat is in the water. With your old steel and rivets there is a chance, not as small as you might think, that something opens up. Sometimes you have imperfections within the steels and when you weld next to them the just leave you with a big hole and loads of water coming in.
It's strange how exciting it is to wait for the launch of a boat that we have seen rebuilt and modernized
@08:19 Galvanized steel. That is steel with a thin layer of zink. (probably the same as your grille). Zink is is used as a sacrificial metal to protect the steel....🤓
This means that it won't be long before it is gone. This leaves you with unprotected steel!🤔
I can't wait for the first trip. This is going to be epic. 😀
Same Smiley that I used! 👍
The galvanized sheet steel will corrode in any area you cut or drill into it. Galvanizing is a surface coating so if the surface is damaged or cut it will be unprotected.
Don’t let the backseat couch barge builders get ya down. Love the work.
👍
I love the channel. The boats are very very cool
A bolt should stick 1/2 the dia. past the nut end especially with a nylock type. Bolt treads aren't cut they're rolled on to discourage fracture points. My father was an engineer crossed trained as a machinist. Enjoy your videos.
Nice work looks great in the water and Crane Operator did excellent job. For a peice of steel over 100 years old she held up well and those leaks honestly nothing considering her age. Some rust converter all over her insides and epoxy paint she will be fine. Andy from Sailing Melody as he was painting in cooler weather has used a paint they use on oil rigs ie specially designed for cool conditions might be worth a look. Anyhoo keep at it look forward to the next vid ;0)
Nice job! Thanks for sharing.
Keeping moving is the most important thing in a Project! 😃
To keep the interior from rusting put in a dehumidifier! Big steel bridges are kept in shape this way so it's a proven method. The Öresunds bridge between Denmark and sweden is not painted on the inside
Just kept on low level of air moisture content so that the steel cant corrode. When you are done with shecking for pinhole corrosion , made interior you can sandblast and paint with ordinary paint.
Do not spray insulate the hull on the inside especially not with
Pu based foam if you make a interior in the hull .This will make any future welding very problematic.
The foam( or any left overs of it around in your heat zone) will give away toxic isosynate when heated starting as low as 100 degrees. And if you acidently ignite it the foam the hole inside will burn out totally. Probably ruining your freeboard exterior paint in the process.
I know a guy that acidently ignited the insulation foam in his steel boat with some sparks of a angel grinder ,the hull survived but the paint and all interior/ electronics/ stuff was at totall loss. Basically just to sand blast the hull and start over again.
I don’t understand is that motor mount going to be a huge drag under the water?
You must be on pop star wages buddy!
Fantastic achievement. Well done.
Can not wait to see your work Being used for the first time ! Almost like a big tease. I love it !
Nice work man. Drone footage is awesome.
Can’t wait for the next episode! Beast wishes from Savannah, GA USA
By using all kinds of different materials underwater you will get galvanic corrosion 😢
What different materials?
The boat is made of steel!
He also installed sacrificial anodes!
Nice work...but I am not sure if you solved the drag issue..
It's a barge. You could hang a couple of anchors dragging in the water and it probably wouldn't change the overall drag of that thing.
Wonderful video ❤thank you 😊
Looking at that vast space below the deck that may still possibly leak, would it not be worth pumping that void full of expanding foam like they use to insulate lofts ?? would certainly be water tight and give you piece of mind ??, loving your project by the way
Purcell’s Cold Song / Nyman’s Memorial upbeat the action nicely.. :)
Looks great in the water would be great to see some plans or a 3D plan to what it will like in the end
One hour ago the steel crackled with more excitement and it sank
Those cranes make me nervous we used them a lot moving machinery, the broken screww you should have used vice grips (locking pliers) and unscrewed it and use a new screw what is your plan for the pontoon
I can build that entire barge from scratch if I had the money, but your project looks good I like the bow thrusters
That cage around the bow thrusters is going to fill with water
Ya must have been exiting for you was exiting just watching lol Take care be safe
G'day Crew,
Great episode,
This vessel is comming along very nicely, the opportunity to design & create a vessel that suits your needs is only limited by the imagination. In time ,this could become your greatest masterpiece yet .
Really looking forward to the next video.
Respect ...!
Is there any ventilation in that hull? Do you check for CO2? Some workers in Scotland died doing maintenance in a similar barge.
The steel crackles not in excitement, but under the stress. I wonder, if the lifting did not create permanent sagging of the bow and stern parts, as well as some fractures in the boat body.
Nice work on your barge. Your going to have a floating city out in that river. Does the city tax you being anchored out there? And does the government tax your boats by the listed hp and size of the engine? I noticed the other boat has a 4 cylinder. Thanks and stay dry my floating German friend. 😉😃
If there is a pinhole leak you need to replace the entire area all the steel around that leak is probably 0.5 mm thick id be wary if i were you and you need finer mesh around that thruster the holes in the mesh should be no larger than the smallest space between the blades that mesh is asking trouble from the first piece of driftwood to get sucked in
"Other than the holes which spell immediate danger and a massive risk to safety and integrity the hull is watertight but with holes in...."
I can't believe he actually said that...
I mean he didn't say it, but he should have...
You know as big as the boat is you should invest in two of those ox diesel outboard engines. They have had great reviews and they are really fuel ⛽ efficient and they would push it along good
Great episode. Very creative working.
This old metal is hard to weld !
Why are the engine on the bow of the vessel?
Dear MFB guy
I really don't want to destroy your dreams but 😱 the pinholes made me worry a lot. Maybe the old steel/iron sheets of the barge bottom have desintegrated a lot more than it's visionable. I guess that only a firm inspection with a special metal thickness measuring device will give you safety. For instance Sailing Melody did this with their abandoned steel sailing boat and had some surprising results. I highly recommend that you do the same for your own safety. Thanks in advance for consideration.
Best regards, luck, health and wisdom.
I think for the you mount on the back might have been better with a hinged mount with couple of hyd cylinders to lift out of water
I haven't read all the comments and you might have addressed the matter already but I saw a loose 12mm bolt on the motor mount just above the plate you mounted. Time stamp 11:34.
I was scrolling to see if anyone asked about this before I did! Maybe he's messing with us to see if we are actually paying attention lol
For the record... At 11:42 its still loose.
that us what we call a "bakschuit" , its to be used in towns and shallow waters to transport any kind of freight. Welding a frame for outboards and a skeleton for a chickenshed makes it only more useless
It appears you may want to lower the engine / prop trim slightly , both motors seem to be pushing/ thrusting too near the motors themselves , these propulsion bubbles ,if visible at all should be more like 10-12 feet . I believe 6:17 you’ll get more push out of the motors .
No concerns about freshwater mussels etc growing on the mesh screen for the thrusters and possibly getting pulled into the props?
Those microholes arent microholes, They probably are pit corrosion with a layer of thick rust. and pit corrosion hardly is on a single place.
Do check the surrounding areas, because it will bite you in the ass.
Better get a good tube of chaulk (polymax and alike) and some steel plates on hand, just in case
Been there done that.
As everybody says .. you should have jacked the boat up even with hammer, wedge and shims, to move the blocks so prepare, prime and AF and let it all dry before launch. 2. Crane driver should have positioned centre to lift at a minimum. When I have done launches with cranes (many) I always make the water side lift close than the shore side. If you can pick it up 1cm without tipping the crane then you can put it down the other side over water as that is nearer. 3. As they say, bow thruster is horrendous. Thin galvanised sheet AF on one side only will corrode very fast. You have no AF on the thruster props so they will get fouled and with the grill in the way you will not be able to get to them to clean by diving :-( Finally from me.. a small one, but always install a bolt from top to bottom so that when the nut vibrates off the bolt cannot drop out.
I am seriously thinking about getting a boat for this season. with a small space to sleep, too
Nice work and congrats on the successful launch of your barge.
Question...did you apply paint to all the holes you drilled into the steel before bolting everything in place. If you didn't, that could be a great place for rust to start forming.
How cool is that! Awesome job. 🎉
Wow, it would seem you could offer this restored barge for hire if you wanted.
Wat did you keep the fin at the bow? It’s just resistent when your steering or ….?
Красавчик!!! всё таки ты "домучал") эту калошу)))смотрю твои видео с самого начала, будешь в России г.Туапсе, велком Бро!!!
I saw the little suggested pic of this video and thought cute..maybe i will build one like that.....then click...Thats Huge!!!!!! Any comments that criticise...wheres your monster barge!!! epic sir!
That mount for the engines is massive, do you think it needed to be so heavy duty? It is only a river boat after all and won't see huge ocean seas or will it?. It looks very agricultural, over engineered and heavy. Also the bow thruster arrangement looks huge and vulnerable to damage, did you get any input from a marine engineer or boat builder?
Why is that interior hull not sealed with primer and paint ?
Always a great day when there is an update from 'my first boat', or 5th-6th boat, lost count of the numbers of boat here on this amazing channel, lol
I've watched your vids since day 1 and can I say how cool they are, now you have the big boat when its finished what are you gonna do with the little one? it would be a shame to sell it after all the work youve done, I remember when it was first opened up in the winter, how far you have come, well done mate !!
Looking good !! Keep up the good work!1
How are you going to deal with gasoline vapors below decks?
So happy you're still alive after seeing the boat hanging straight above you! And also happy to see it's moving at the end! How much does the thing weigh though?
Very nicely done.
Cool boat. Why do you wear a particulate mask for drilling and installing bolts?
Awesome content as always