This video was inspiring. To follow up on my comment a few days ago, I made the modification to my LTX1042. I used a piece of 2 in. square tubing and raised the original bracket off the deck which easily clears the deck and frame above it. It was the same width dimension as the bracket once cut out, except it just sat higher. I bored two holes on the top and bottom of the tubing to match the existing bracket. Mounted the bracket to the top of the 2 in. tubing then bolted it to the original location using a 10mm RIVNUT in the deck with a matching bolt. The original bracket relied on an extruded part of the bracket to extend through the deck to keep it from turning. I used a pass-thru bolt to keep it stable when pressure was applied similar to the original design. I did use a bolt at the original tensioner position at the center of the deck, as shown in this video, but used a set of jam nuts towards the top. The nuts (when jammed) gave just enough room for the spring to wrap between them and the head of the bolt keeping it in place. I just tested it today. While being skeptical that my modification would work, I engaged the blades and it worked great. I have my old reliable mower back in business. I'll see about posting an image of this mod and providing a link to it soon. The tool I use for many other things besides this particular job to install Rivnuts is linked here for those interested. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J677FK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I added an additional bolt with sleeve on the bracket for the PTO cable for additional support. I also drilled a hole on the other bolt that the spring attaches to and inserted the curved end of the spring/hook into the hole on the bolt. This modification is great. I kept "chewing" up belts before the modification. Also, the 2nd pulley that moves when you engage the PTO was bent on your deck. This is a common/known issue. You can simply bend the bracket that the pulley is mounted onto in order to level/straighten out the pulley.
Nice job! I'll be doing this exact same repair today on my dad's mower. Pretty weird how they designed that. The belt was underneath the spring on his. Wore a deep groove into it.
Hi, great video. Interesting way to overcome bad design. I just posted a video about replacing that same cable. did not have either of your issues. mine was a 1046. However I did notice that the bolt you used for the cable bracket flexed as soon s you engaged the handle. I cannot help but think that the bolt will not hold up very long under use. perhaps a 3/8 bolt or use washers to give more lateral strength to the threads. overall a great video though.
I would have made a brace on the back side where the cable connectson that bolt. Cause when you engage it, you can see the stress it's taking. It was trying to pull it forwards and over time may screw that hole up and pull forwards too much. A brace on the backside to stabilize it and take the force when you engage it would be good. Otherwise pretty good job for a pretty crap design.
thanks for making this video. i have the same mower problem. the mower was given to me because the belt kept coming off. the 96.5 belt that it says it takes seems to be way too loose. what size do you have on yours? will be doing the mod you showed. wondering if the pto spring is wore out, it wont tension the belt properly. what do you think? thanks
Question. Have you had your belt tensioner cable (that goes to the spring) stretch? When mine is engaged the belt is loose and your spring goes all the way to the brelaclet the cable ends at. But mine has a couple inches of cable showing. I see no way to adjust any bracket so I am thinking I need a new cable. Thanks for any input
You don’t need them brakes on the pulleys either,so take the rod off ! I also took a spring from an old set of brake shoes (retainer spring) and put it UNDER the friggin’ belt-actuator arm, used a longer bolt and good washers and 2 nuts under the deck ! I greased everything and it worked!- now if I re-engineer the spring like you did, it should be perfect!
On a completely separate note I finally got my ebay purchase. 3 slick little Monzas to tinker with! You got into my head man! Lol In all seriousness this was pretty informative. Glad you got it back up and running. I wish I could use a riding mower on my lawn. It's way to steep in most areas for my comfort. I live back up in the mountains of TN.
@@Pedal2Metal_on_TH-cam I spent $24 for mine not counting the shipping. The Wally world in town has a cruddy car selection. Far to many futuristic/ concept cars. There's gotta be a collector that hits them up, the desireable cars are always gone it seems. You gonna do another custom with the Monza?
mine broke up by the pto handle and was just a thin piece of metal and it snapped and had to order a new cable and it came in today 30 dollars and hopefully fixed .So far replaced the drive and deck belts because they were going bad and it only has 222 hours on it .I have 3 acres but also own a troy built 42 inch mower .The cub was bought in 2017 new ,
Having worked with these a few times now I can see a problem with your aftermarket pulleys right away. The edge. Sharp gouges. You need to smooth that out. Better yet don't use those Chinese off-colored pulleys.
I had to come back and comment on this. The fix seems really viable and even though my Cub LTX1042 is almost ten years old, I'm going to modify it. My rod had a wear spot in it too, and I added some weld filler and ground it back down. MTD= M_ore T_rouble D_aily so this must be an AYP? I used to be a small engine repair shop store manager, and I saw a lot of these in the Spring season. Thumbs Up on the modification.
Great video. What are the parts called that the black j hook is connected to under the deck. Mine keeps coming off causing my deck to lean and mower to lose power when I turn
Just wondering how the long term usage turned out? Seems the bolts both for the cable mount and spring mounts will eventually break out due to metal fatigue from the amount of torque put on the deck and the idler bracket. I think I could fabricate a taller bracket to handle this inherent failure point. Let us know how it worked out and if it has or does break out I'll fab up a couple brackets and send you a couple.
Is there any way you could measure how far of an off set for both brackets from both the deck and bracket? If you will, I'll fab up a couple permanent fix brackets and send you a set just to save a future headache.
I have an Ltx 1045 46" my blades seemed to need to pick up speed when I engage the blades! Now they won't come up to speed at all? Is this cause by my PTO cable? Just doesn't seem to be putting enough tension on belt? Anyway to get it to work until new cable arrives? Thanks, great video!
I just bought one used. The fella said the pto wouldnt bring the blades up to speed cause it needed belts. I put new belts on it today and it didn't help it at all. The belts did need replaced so it's not money wasted. Gonna order me a new cable tomarrow I guess. Doesnt look much fun to replace though. Wish me luck.
you pot mor tention on thr belt by loosen the nut on the bar at the front of the deck, the 12 in. rod that connects to the front of the deck and goeshhrough a hole in the front fram strut. i know because i tightened mmyen and it loosened the belt.
@@waltervanalstine3903The threaded bar on the front of the deck is to adjust the rake of the deck. The front of the deck should be 1/4 inch lower than the rear of the deck. Too much tension on that bar will make the front of the deck higher than the rear and too little tension will make the front of the deck too low. These adjustments affect the overall quality of the cut. Really can’t use that bar as a method of correcting other problems without messing up the way it cuts your grass.
You should have compared it to your other spring. Working on the same exact mower now and that spring is HUGE compared to the original one on this mower. Personally not a fan of any MTD mowers.
Sorry Dale but you’re absolutely incorrect. Have the same mower, just replaced my belt, engagement line and lever, and the lift pulley wheels. The springs are in the correct location. If you switched them you would not be able to engage the blades.
This video was inspiring. To follow up on my comment a few days ago, I made the modification to my LTX1042. I used a piece of 2 in. square tubing and raised the original bracket off the deck which easily clears the deck and frame above it. It was the same width dimension as the bracket once cut out, except it just sat higher.
I bored two holes on the top and bottom of the tubing to match the existing bracket. Mounted the bracket to the top of the 2 in. tubing then bolted it to the original location using a 10mm RIVNUT in the deck with a matching bolt. The original bracket relied on an extruded part of the bracket to extend through the deck to keep it from turning. I used a pass-thru bolt to keep it stable when pressure was applied similar to the original design.
I did use a bolt at the original tensioner position at the center of the deck, as shown in this video, but used a set of jam nuts towards the top. The nuts (when jammed) gave just enough room for the spring to wrap between them and the head of the bolt keeping it in place. I just tested it today. While being skeptical that my modification would work, I engaged the blades and it worked great. I have my old reliable mower back in business. I'll see about posting an image of this mod and providing a link to it soon. The tool I use for many other things besides this particular job to install Rivnuts is linked here for those interested. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J677FK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I added an additional bolt with sleeve on the bracket for the PTO cable for additional support. I also drilled a hole on the other bolt that the spring attaches to and inserted the curved end of the spring/hook into the hole on the bolt. This modification is great. I kept "chewing" up belts before the modification. Also, the 2nd pulley that moves when you engage the PTO was bent on your deck. This is a common/known issue. You can simply bend the bracket that the pulley is mounted onto in order to level/straighten out the pulley.
Nice job! I'll be doing this exact same repair today on my dad's mower. Pretty weird how they designed that. The belt was underneath the spring on his. Wore a deep groove into it.
Thanks for your help and patience. Great ideas 😊
Hi, great video. Interesting way to overcome bad design. I just posted a video about replacing that same cable. did not have either of your issues. mine was a 1046. However I did notice that the bolt you used for the cable bracket flexed as soon s you engaged the handle. I cannot help but think that the bolt will not hold up very long under use. perhaps a 3/8 bolt or use washers to give more lateral strength to the threads. overall a great video though.
Great Information on your LTX 1040 same as mine, I’m going to do the same mod on my cable 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I would have made a brace on the back side where the cable connectson that bolt. Cause when you engage it, you can see the stress it's taking. It was trying to pull it forwards and over time may screw that hole up and pull forwards too much. A brace on the backside to stabilize it and take the force when you engage it would be good. Otherwise pretty good job for a pretty crap design.
thanks for making this video. i have the same mower problem. the mower was given to me because the belt kept coming off. the 96.5 belt that it says it takes seems to be way too loose. what size do you have on yours? will be doing the mod you showed. wondering if the pto spring is wore out, it wont tension the belt properly. what do you think? thanks
Could have put couple washers under spindle pulleys
Nice. I’ve broken 2 spring and installing my third now.
were do you find the spacers to raise the spring
Nice man! That was pretty slick.
Question. Have you had your belt tensioner cable (that goes to the spring) stretch? When mine is engaged the belt is loose and your spring goes all the way to the brelaclet the cable ends at. But mine has a couple inches of cable showing. I see no way to adjust any bracket so I am thinking I need a new cable. Thanks for any input
Yes, they stretch and need replaced every few years.
@@Pedal2Metal_on_TH-cam thanks so much !
You don’t need them brakes on the pulleys either,so take the rod off ! I also took a spring from an old set of brake shoes (retainer spring) and put it UNDER the friggin’ belt-actuator arm, used a longer bolt and good washers and 2 nuts under the deck ! I greased everything and it worked!- now if I re-engineer the spring like you did, it should be perfect!
On a completely separate note I finally got my ebay purchase. 3 slick little Monzas to tinker with! You got into my head man! Lol
In all seriousness this was pretty informative. Glad you got it back up and running. I wish I could use a riding mower on my lawn. It's way to steep in most areas for my comfort. I live back up in the mountains of TN.
Cool; I just found another monza today at target. I grabbed that sucker! I like it A lot!
@@Pedal2Metal_on_TH-cam I spent $24 for mine not counting the shipping. The Wally world in town has a cruddy car selection. Far to many futuristic/ concept cars. There's gotta be a collector that hits them up, the desireable cars are always gone it seems. You gonna do another custom with the Monza?
Yea what the heck is that bracket for ??(@10:55) lol! nice job!
mine broke up by the pto handle and was just a thin piece of metal and it snapped and had to order a new cable and it came in today 30 dollars and hopefully fixed .So far replaced the drive and deck belts because they were going bad and it only has 222 hours on it .I have 3 acres but also own a troy built 42 inch mower .The cub was bought in 2017 new ,
That’s where mine has broke twice now. Ridiculous how small and thin casted that piece is
I got the same problem my cable spring hits the rod below and gets stuck and won't engage the deck. Do you think I should start with a new cable?
I’m on my 3rd cable replacement! Pos design from cub.
Yup.. they are junk imo
I have the same problem with my cub. where can I get the 5/16 turnbuckles that you use in tus video . thank you very much
Having worked with these a few times now I can see a problem with your aftermarket pulleys right away. The edge. Sharp gouges. You need to smooth that out. Better yet don't use those Chinese off-colored pulleys.
I had to come back and comment on this. The fix seems really viable and even though my Cub LTX1042 is almost ten years old, I'm going to modify it. My rod had a wear spot in it too, and I added some weld filler and ground it back down.
MTD= M_ore T_rouble D_aily so this must be an AYP? I used to be a small engine repair shop store manager, and I saw a lot of these in the Spring season. Thumbs Up on the modification.
Great information. Great video.
Great video. What are the parts called that the black j hook is connected to under the deck. Mine keeps coming off causing my deck to lean and mower to lose power when I turn
Are you asking about the two spring loaded hooks on the top rear of the deck? Those go into holes in brackets underneath the mower frame.
Just wondering how the long term usage turned out? Seems the bolts both for the cable mount and spring mounts will eventually break out due to metal fatigue from the amount of torque put on the deck and the idler bracket. I think I could fabricate a taller bracket to handle this inherent failure point. Let us know how it worked out and if it has or does break out I'll fab up a couple brackets and send you a couple.
It's still working fine
Is there any way you could measure how far of an off set for both brackets from both the deck and bracket? If you will, I'll fab up a couple permanent fix brackets and send you a set just to save a future headache.
I have an Ltx 1045 46" my blades seemed to need to pick up speed when I engage the blades! Now they won't come up to speed at all? Is this cause by my PTO cable? Just doesn't seem to be putting enough tension on belt? Anyway to get it to work until new cable arrives? Thanks, great video!
I just bought one used. The fella said the pto wouldnt bring the blades up to speed cause it needed belts. I put new belts on it today and it didn't help it at all. The belts did need replaced so it's not money wasted. Gonna order me a new cable tomarrow I guess. Doesnt look much fun to replace though. Wish me luck.
Turned out to be the pto lever. It was bent pretty bad. Got one off Amazon for less than $30. Kinda tuff to change but alls well now.
you pot mor tention on thr belt by loosen the nut on the bar at the front of the deck, the 12 in. rod that connects to the front of the deck and goeshhrough a hole in the front fram strut. i know because i tightened mmyen and it loosened the belt.
@@waltervanalstine3903The threaded bar on the front of the deck is to adjust the rake of the deck. The front of the deck should be 1/4 inch lower than the rear of the deck. Too much tension on that bar will make the front of the deck higher than the rear and too little tension will make the front of the deck too low. These adjustments affect the overall quality of the cut. Really can’t use that bar as a method of correcting other problems without messing up the way it cuts your grass.
Great stuff man.
I'm going to try a 95" belt first,
Then dig in.
how do you run the rest of the cable to the pull/release handle?
Follow it back
Pretty easy
Maybe hook the spring in from the top ? You hooked it in from the bottom of the hole..🤷
Same deal the left pulley bracket needs a bend . I played all these games. Junk
Did this too, but if it's too high it doesn't allow the deck to raise above the 5th notch.
Nice fix 👍👍👍
Thanks!
Wow this mover was a little bit hard to Fix and a question whats the most expensive piece that you put on? But as always good video ;-)
The vary-speed pulley was $38; I think that was the most expensive item to get this running right. Thanks for watching!
You should have compared it to your other spring. Working on the same exact mower now and that spring is HUGE compared to the original one on this mower.
Personally not a fan of any MTD mowers.
I hate my Cub Cadet. It's one stupid thing after another.
You realize you have the springs completely wrong. No wonder it doesn't work. Total screw up!!!
It works fine. I went off the factory diagram.
Sorry Dale but you’re absolutely incorrect. Have the same mower, just replaced my belt, engagement line and lever, and the lift pulley wheels. The springs are in the correct location. If you switched them you would not be able to engage the blades.