Hi guys, great vid as usual. A little tip for ya. Try standing your cans in warm water for ten minutes before using them. It boosts the pressure slightly and thins the paint making it atomise and flow a touch better. Keep up the good work peeps.
Hi Chris....oh there is so much i could have said...but it was over half our already... yeah, warming up the cans will expand the compressed air and push harder on the paint...it wont actually make it thinner... there is a fixed amount of thinners sealed in there and thats it....but like you said, it atomises better and lays on smoother.... also garage temperature means so much.. minimum 65 degrees...and 80 if possible... but this is England aye...so we work with what we have lol....!! cheers buddy. Del.
YES I ALSO DO THAT AND ALSO PAINT AT 55 TO 60 DEGREES TO AVOID ORANGE PEEL . ALSO TO AVOID RUNS I DONT SPRAY ON THE BACK STROKE AND TRY TO STAY 12 INCHES AWAY FROM SURFACE ED USA
much thanks for tutorial, getting ready to paint expensive after market fender. I especially like the tip on buying cheap paint and practicing hand eye coordination I feel confident in takin on job myself
Just found this video and page. We're doing a bike build at home as a 'dad' project. That includes doing the basic painting ourselves. Thanks. Very helpful.
I used to work at an auto parts store at one point. The best part was that some of the rattlecans would be on clearance for a nickel a can due to them being a discontinued color. So I managed to get 15 cans of Duplicolor for less than $1.00! I've got enough paint to do 5 or more motorcycles, including the frames. So for everyone out there always ask your local parts houses if they have any clearance paint. Sometimes they do when their resupply truck comes in.
There's no wrong buddy, as long as you're happy with what you're doing, it's about the journey aye?! Thanks for taking the time to comment Nova, it's much appreciated.. have a great week!
Thank you both. Great filming and great explanation. With practice and preparation this excellent video has given me the confidence to re spray my Vespa. The myth that you can’t achieve a lovely finish with a rattle can has been laid to rest. Cheers!
Hi Del thanks mate for getting back to me my main concern was how they would react when the exhaust got hot and who would thought cola and silver paper thanks mate much appprieciated Bob,
Very close on the aerosol contents, but there is no compressed air in a rattle paint can. The propellant is a typically a hydrocarbon. Usually a combination of propane and butane or iso-butane. It mixes with the solvent and paint as a single phase liquid (solids do settle, hence needing to shake) and the gas that boils off is the gaseous phase of the propellant. Since the propellant is dissolved in with the paint and solvent, when you spray it, the liquid propellant boils when it hits atmospheric pressure and helps break up the paint to give a nice fine mist. Because the propellant is constantly boiling off when the pressure drops inside the can, it boils some of it off as a gas and fills the headspace, equalizing the pressure inside the can. Compressed air as a propellant in an aerosol does not perform well. A compressed air propellant spray is more wet (larger droplet size) since it is only pushing it out of the can and not boiling off when sprayed. Also, as the product is used up in the can, the headspace increases and the can pressure lowers (P1)(V1)=(P2)(V2), so it starts high and drops off during use. Not consistent.
I thought I'd learnt everything from you in terms of painting based on all of the project videos I've watched, but it seems you proved me wrong! Great video cheers Del&Penny!
Excellent. Im a paintsprayer by trade. Industrial but use a couple of devilbiss and Wagner paint guns finishing ones too and the divers airfed mask industrial paint booth . Very informative video for my bikes. Thanks.
The trick is to make sure you are getting cans with the fan tips. A tool that’s worth every cent / pound is the MIXQUICK that goes on a reciprocal saw. 32:27
That B Bike Show last year was a knockout mate. Really enjoyed the whole day and never have I seen so many bikes in one place. If I don't make it, have a good one, hopefully see you there.
I truly enjoy the videos. 👍 I have recently used your videos in my class (high school) to try and encourage some of my students to get their hands dirty and look after their bikes/cars. Some of them have started driving and bought their first vehicle or motorcycle. I am trying to encourage the driver/rider safety by encouraging them to regularly maintain their vehicles. Thank you on behalf of my students!
Hi Denis, good to hear from you mate... and what an honour to be promoted to your students! Nurturing young riders and road users, is so important to us and vitally important to the bike community, as without them we have no tomorrow ... it's really humbling to be treated as some form of tutor, and am so glad we are able to help in some way... please express to any of them that they are welcome to drop us a line if they need any tips, or guidance, or just to say Hi ! Ride safe and enjoy the roads !
Hi mate, thanks for that, very kind of you, it's cool to pass on the things we know, knowledge doesn't cost anything, but passing it on can really benefit others ... thanks for watching, gald you enjoyed it !
WOW…Surprised to see you wearing an ACE CAFE T-shirt. LOL. Terrific job with the video, as usual. But this time the best part for me was seeing Penny Pitstop again. Yha..SHE’s BACK!!
Looking for tips and found ....ahhhhhhhh ok the base is everything . The shine will not matter if theres awful stuff showing through . Prep and prep again . If in doubt ..... any doubt prep yet again . Its worth it honest . To waste paint is expensive when you could have filled that little mark , etc . Go round and around and around . Rattle cans will never give depth to hide issues so prep is everything . High build is the absolute daddy . It hides the small stuff but needs a decent cutting back with 800/1200 grit once done . All the pin holes and poor rubbing back go away with a decent coat . Consider it before spraying a base colour/top coat . The final spray . Dont do as he says whatever you do . A dust coat ..... as it says you dust it on following the lines of the tank first and filling in between but not aiming to cover it all with the first pass . This stops runs and runination of everything upto that point plus gives a layer the paint likes to stick to . Do a few of these until the tanks primer is covered without shades showing through . Then a resonable cost is applied . Not too wet , you are looking to get an all over cover the same depth . Final is a `wet` coat . The wet is the talent . Too much and you get a run , too little and you dont get a flat surface . A run , if its not got a flec in it , can be rubbed back ( 1200 grit wrapping a credit card on the run alone ) . Once the wets done consider a clear coat . If its the right sort of paint ( a base without flec ) you can cut it back to create the best surface possible then a light glassy clear will be the absolute best hard wearing finish possible . A couple of clear then cut it back using 2000 grit lightly followed by t-cut or g3 gives a factory finish . Flec in it then if you get a run its sort of tough shit and start again .
I painted my 01 Fazer 600 a couple years back with rattle cans. I did sand the paint back to get a glass finish. But I do find the clear paint in a rattle can " used Motip'' to soft and it scratches to easily. For the clear I always go to the paint shop to get me 2k clear in a rattle can. Expensive but durable. Pic's of the bike are on my FB. chears
To get a better finish warm the can in some hot water. It helps the paint flow better. WARNING DO NOT HEAT WITH FLAME!!! Lol! Just use warm water, and let it stand in it till it is warmed up
Hi Ian, email address gets up to 100 mails a day, and anything with picture attachements just gets sent to spam... don't know why, can't seem to control it... best way to make sure we get is poke it on facebook through our facebook link... should be able to link it to there,,, look forward to seeing it mate, thanks Del
Hi buddy, a garage over 65degrees and 15mins between coats is all you need... hairdryer works ok, but if you dry a skin over the top too quickly then you trap the thinners underneath it, which will fight to get out and split the surface, causing a crazy paved effect, so take it easy with the hairdryer if you're doing heavy coats - I've trashed a couple of paint jobs that way !
Never thought of that. Pound shop rattle cans and a old handlebar I have. Thanks Delboy I think I will give it a go next week when I am off. Cheers again.
I like to use the "trigger" plastic snap on thing for a rattle can, I find personally this gives a person even more touch and control rather than depressing the push down nozzle manually........ also you have to be careful when spraying up side down to clear the nozzle, if you do it too many times for too long you'll lose the propellant near the end of the can, i.e.: you'll have paint left but no propellant to push it out.
Those can guns can often interupt the patch of the spray coming out, and lead to a drip falling on the job....ive also had a can actually fall out of the gun... so dont trust them meself..!
Im a rattle can pro i paint all my stuff with rattle can i just did my harley with krylon 2 coats then wet sanded then did third coat wet sand and i get a clear in a rattle can that has a hardner that is in the can ,you take this red piece from the cap and its fits on the nipple on bottom of can and you smack it on the bench and it breaks open the harder inside the can shake for a few minutes and its good for 24 hrs its called k2 . my buddies dont believe me when they see my work that its spray bomb but the most important part is wet sand between coats and it will be as smooth as glass if you dont then it will be all orange peel looking so take the time to wet sand and it will look great
Yet another brilliant video delboy, I would like to know if you could do a video for spraying the bike fairings as I did mine a few years ago and had a dreadful time. No videos showing how to spray plastics.
Hi Elf, have done lots of how to spray stuff and whether it's plastic, or metal, it's the same procedures, not sure if you're using rattle cans, or a spray gun, but the techniques and procedures are the same when it comes to laying on the material, the usual drill, overlap each line of paint over the last one, 15mins between coats, and all the usual prep underneath.. have done loads of videos containing paint advice, I think there's even a simple skills one called 'Rattle Can Paint' so not sure what else I can do - maybe tell me what problem you're having and I could advise on that individually for you?
Runs and dust getting in the paint is the worst. Damp towels help keep dust away. To stop runs I start with a very light coat that doesn't fully cover everything and wait 10 mins before I can do a full coat. Another trick is to turn the nozzle to the side at the end of each swipe.
just wanted to say , I got rattle cans made up at our local motor factors. they have a huge book showing many manufacturer's colours. These cans were about £7 each but the nozzles can be taken apart and also they spray an oval similar to a spray gun. We went for metallic followed by an off the shelf lacquer. That way we built a few coats of lacquer and then cut them back, result was amazing. But remembered to wipe the nozzle every so often as this stopped spitting. Love your vids and now subscribed.
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoy the videos, loads more in the back catalogue, so hopefully something helpful in them! Much appreciate the sub mate, ride safe, Del
Hi Del, another fascinating video, very helpful. It was a real treat to meet you and and the lovely Penny at Harley on Sunday. Thanks for the advise on my up and coming Harley purchase. The Sportster was definitely too small. I will be trying a Dyna this week. The other consideration was an Indian Scout. Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks again, Lee
Hi there Lee... so good to meet you too mate, how cool we all ended up riding down the road together..lol.. I dont have any epxerience of the Indian range at all im afraid.. i really like the riding position on the Victory Hi Ball... but not the engine delivery.. just feels like a Jap bike..! But if you are in the market for a big cruiser...then you absolutely MUST try them all out.. The Scout 60 im told by a buddy is really good.. but not tried one myself.. and of course the Dyna family have lots of options.... also dont forget the Triumph Thunderbird range..!!? enjoy your shopping buddy.. its the best therapy in the world ever right..?.. Take care and see you again.. Del.
Nice lil tips there Del. Now maybe the next time I try do a lil spraying i'll get a better finish. Hope to make it to that rally on the 10th. so watch out for some geez saying yeah Del boy lol
I used alot of rattle cans on bmx frames when I was younger and the amount of cans I knackered up by not turning upside down and spraying after use like you just shown me is a real bummer so thanks Del! I was given a tip about rattle cans and that was to put them in warm water before I used them? Not sure if its a pro or con Del? Hats off to Penny on the camera too! Great video thank you see you next time! Aiden
Hi buddy... the heating of cans is only a relevant in cooler weather towards the end of the can when its running out... as the fluid is pushed out, the pressure drops, obviously...so its not pushing out so hard...warming the can will expand the compressed air and help to push the last of the paint out, and any method of warming will do, it doesnt have to be stood in warm water...a hair drier, run it under the hot tap, even leave it in the sun on a window sill between coats lol .........BUT. you must NEVER heat a full can mate...ive had them split and open up sending paint everywhere...so only whne they are over half emtpy...but if your garage is over 70 degrees, you find you dont need to.!
+Moonfleet41 Thanks for the tips mate 🖒 I'm sure it'll come in handy to me in a few months time. I've always enjoyed spraying but go frustrated when cans clogged up on me and I never understood why. But, now I do so thanks! Look forward to the next video mate. The bikes getting there slowly 😊 Absolutely no rush though.. rome wasn't built in a day and all that eh? 😉🤘
Nice work mate. Enjoyed that and very useful (currently spraying some fairings) made a bit of a hash of the primer stage which is off to a great start ha
Oh well, doesn't always go according to plan mate - but I always see reactions, runs and flare ups in the paint as clearly a mistake I've made, and something I can tehn learn from... we learn by practice aye?? Good luck with it mate...
Hi there, welcome aboard, and thank you for all your kind comments... with a rattle can, best distance is maybe 10-12" from the work piece, and passing at a speed that lays a nice wet coat on, but not too much to overload it... there is a little practice involved, but once you get a grip of it, you can make some great results and patience between coats is a great asset... don't re-coat too soon!
my bandit is so greatful for the attention you have taught me to give it. looking to take it up a level and give the engine a paint over the next 2 weeks. what paint would you use for this? thanks Colin
Hi Colin, you can buy a wide range of heat proof engine paints...you dont need a full on manifold paint, which is usually flat matt finish...but the medium range stuff up to about 350 degrees comes in lots of cool colours, black, grey, silver, etc.. check out the options in the auto shops... lots to choose from buddy.. Good luck.. Del
I'm thinking of changing the color of my bike to Matt black would I have to sand it down to bear metal/plastic or after sanding can I just put a good primer on and crack on,thanks Del in advance
Great simple skills! I admire your knowledge of all things you show us. But if you're looking for more veiwers and a video that's easy to watch, then I think a short and compact video is the way forward! Lovely t-shirt by the way! Have you ever been there? Ride safe
By the very nature of a Simple Skills video, you are pitching your dialogue at new, novice people who watch it for insight on how to achieve a finish that they struggle to when they do it themselves - there are already half a dozen things I missed, such as lay up time between coats, the concept of sanding between coats, wet sanding with soap, or without soap, using acrylics, or enamel paints, the subject it massive, but kept the matter clear and concise to making a flawless base, keeping everything clean and then practice and patience, with the physical hand skills of the can... what you're referring to, in your suggestion, in keeping videos short, is perhaps that people are more likely to watch a 3min video, by it's very nature, a 3min video would show people nothing, other than a result... we don't do this to seek more viewers, but to help those that chose to view... we strive to produce some 'different' on the internet amongst the 'white noise' of " here's one I did earlier" ... those who are not interested in what we do, can fast forward, or just switch off... there's an audience for everyone aye?
Hi mate, so many things I didn't cover and already been criticised for a 'too long a video'! At least half a dozen vital things that could have been spoken about, flash off times, garage temps., sanding between coats, what chemical to clean with, the list is endless... truth is, I could make it a 2 week course and still only scratch the surface, but rest assured, we will cover it all as time goes on, just about to start on the fuel tank, and there will be lots of bodywork processes in that one !
Looking forward to that . Fascinating stuff. Personally I have no complaints about the length of your videos. Longer ones just mean you can go into the subject in more depth which is always good. I love the way you start off now showing the setting up before hand. Get to see more of the garage as well.
Brilliant video , one of the best yet! I was literally thinking of Petes SprayPainting videos while watching this ; between the both of you , can't go wrong! Do you know anything about the Brushed metal look & the application of a top coat to it? Also want to stripes down the side to cover the isopon bodyfiller that has levelled out the fairing clips i chopped off ; so from what you've stated A basic primer will suffice?
Hi guys. Well, every day is a school day after all. If I want to paint some plastic panels, do I have to sand and prime before painting? It seems like a lot of effort for just a bit of paint
fantastic news about rattle cans! i did my pushbike and was very pleased with the results. what's the best bike for a first time enthusiast do you reckon, 125, or does it not matter?
Awesome video my friend. You're exactly right with your analogy. One request though, you hold the camera and put the girl on the screen 😜 Btw, If you need a California license plate for your collection let me know and I will hook you up with one 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Nice one Del & great to see & hear Penny again. I'm saving all these s.s videos, as they are great for reference when working with my boy. I'm using the old rattle cans myself just now, painting my bobber project. Been wet sanding using 1200 between each coat, primer and all. Cheers for explaining the block sanding technique though, makes sense if you think about it. Have you ever used one of the clip on handle things with the rattle cans? Liking the progress on this mate, look forward to seeing your mate do his magic. Cheers again, Ride safe, Al.
Hi Alan, i think those things you refered to are called "can guns" and i have used one but it collected a tiny but if the exiting spray as the clip inpeded the path of the outlet...and that then dripped on the job... i got proficient with the old finger a long time ago..it just feels more in control to simply press on it..! No need to flat down with 1200 "between coats"... thats a bit exxcessive and a waste of time buddy... you can paint over the last coat with a 15 minute gap...then flat the lot on one go once its fully dry in a few days... 1200 is only really for polishing and finishing... 800 is plenty fine enough if you're prepping for a new colour or meterial..!!! good luck with it chap.. Del.
Yes buddy... we made a video putting a full size Sportster tank on a HD 48 - it's in the Harley playlist and the same process applies to any EFI tank !
did you see the episode of American hotrod where duane told one of the new guys he had to shake the can until the ball inside had desolved lol he spent half the day shaking a can only to be told oh that one must be faulty try another lmao, poor kid,
I totally understand it is NOT paint..I have had my saddle bags Plasitdipped for the last 2 years...only point of extreme caution I will need it when gassing up
I just took all the plastidip off my saddle bags with Goo Gone ...maybe I should have used gas?? other then the fact that it might catch fire.,,,nah ...bad idea !!...LOL
Another great demystification buddy. I really need to get to grips with paint work, I've been guilty of some proper travesties over the years. See you Sunday :)
Brilliant video !!! What products and procedure would you use to achieve a matt finish (not matt wrap)? Keep them vids coming, inspirational and helpful stuff...
Hi Andrew.. You just buy matt paint for a matt finish, easy enough, and lay it up the same was as any other paint.. just done polish it..!! Thanks for your kind comments my friend..
3 P's of painting - Practice, Preparation, Patience.... Practice the technique, Prepare the job AND your materials, Patience to wait the appropriate amount of time between coats AND not try to do it all in one coat.
Wise words well said David...and that last line can only come from someone who has tried to do it all on one coat (and realised the hard way lol)..aint we all mate.. thanks aye.!
Hi del can you help me, what do recommend for cleaning chrome and protecting the chrome on the exhaust system and, chrome spoked wheels and I have noticed the odd small spot of rust so would appreciate your advice mate what you can use to clean and protect the chrome thanks from Bob
Hi Robert... there are many great chrome cleaning products on the market, i guess it depends how bad the corrosion is.... if its just a light discolouration you can use good old "Silvo" to bring back the bluey lustre, but if its proper rust and scabby... then there is a great "Grandma trick" using Tin foil and Cola.... yeah, you read that right.. here, have a watch..! th-cam.com/video/j47BzWv4fck/w-d-xo.html
Paint with a paintbrush out of a can in your garage... enamel paints are self leveling. No breathing spray can aerosols, no over spray, no airgun setup or booth necessary, work at your own pace, paint as little or as much as you want in a session and put then put the lid back on the can. Clean your brushes or thin the paint with acetone. Dry in your oven for an hour at 200 F, let cool, and it will be dry enough to handle and no longer sticky. Let sit for a week before you apply a second coat or install the part. Enamel from a can is old school tough as nails, the only thing tougher is epoxy paints which require mixing. Guys are funny, they'll pick up a high amp welder or grinder and throw molten lead, fumes, and sparks all over the place without a second thought, but they are absolutely mortified of a paint brush. "You'll get paint streaks", they cry, "that's not the professional way to do it like I see in the auto body shops!" I'm looking at dozens of parts I painted last month as well as a boat trailer frame, and I can't find a single paint streak anywhere. I'm not using any particular technique.
When I worked in a (Vauxhall Bedford) garage we had an ex-Rolls Royce painter there, and one customer who had all his lorries brush painted. Lenton Transport, Lenton Green wagons. The guy used brushing cellulose for the job and when it was finished it always looked superb, at least as good as a professional spray job. Prep, practice and knowing what you’re doing! Les
hey choppergirl airwar; I am looking to paint my fork stations (the lower bit?) of my standard forks...and I am eager to do it the best I can...bearing in mind I am a complete novice. Of course moonfleets videos are FANTASTIC...but am intrigued by this enamelling. As the stations are round, how do I stop any runs if brush painting?Thank you BOTH!
Hi mate, this is an old wives tale, but there is a tiny bit of use in it... works on the simple principle that air expands when it gets hotter, so warming the can increases the internal pressure, which pushes it out the can under ore force and that, in turn, makes it atomise finer, but this in turn , if you are too far away from the subject, can lead to the particles of paint being so tiny that they dry before they hit the surface and cause a 'grainy' finish... the only time warming the can is useful is towards the end of the quantity of paint where, as the fluid leve drops, the pressure drops and the atomisation suffers, so warming the can with a hairdryer as the level drops can help to keep the pressure up right to the last drop!
hi dell and penny good to see the build. coming along and you are making good use of some of the music i sent you. so i have a question for you dell. as you know i have my katana 1100 sitting in the garage still not ready for the road. i panted with cans. now here my question...? what type of clear coat do i use so the color paint will not come off when exposed to things like petrol. . i was thinking of using k2.. is that the right way to go..?
Hi mate, sorry I did get your message in the main tsream email but been a bit swamped and hadn't got to it yet... ! So with your paint, yes, 2k is best, in fact anything with a chemical hardener, the way this works in terms of physics (or chemistry!) is that an evaporation paint is solids left behind after solvent evaporates- when you re-introduce solvent, it can re-activate the solvents in to a liquid and wash them off again... and petrol is a pretty good solvent , but a 2k process involves a chemical hardener which is effectively an Epoxy resin....and once cured, it cannot be reactivated....which makes it petrol proof.. You can buy it in rattle cans with a special container that you activate to mixe the hardener when you're ready.....and most decent paint suppliers will sell them... Hope that helps you buddy.. thanks again for the kewl music, it makes all the difference to have out own choonz..! take care and keep in touch.. Del.
Thanx to you.. I was not 100% sure. Thats why i askes you. And your welcome. . feel free to use the other tracks i sent you to.. Make me proud to hear my music on your channel and that someone appreciate the work that gose in to making a track.
Couldn't word it better myself! After final coat we need probably 600grit rub down (or green scotch brite) Then we can start airbrushing. Once done start coating with clear lacquer. Few days later it can and should be polished with 1000 - 1500 - 2000 and even 2500 wet. Then polishing and finishing compound either by hand or machine pads and mirror like / glass finished guaranteed, with no imperfections and no dust marks whatsoever. Seems like a long process, but all worth it in the end. And as you know it painting itself its the shortest and probably most enjoyable part of the whole "painting" process. check out this sample I made some time ago - th-cam.com/video/HVPgm2quuok/w-d-xo.html
No thats right.. its evaporation dried....It is a 'second best' thats for sure, but as long as you dont lay too much on, and let it dry right out... you can have it clearcoated in 2K laquer which will protect it properly..!
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A really informative video. Thanks for posting.
Another master class in the simple stuff. I'm amazed how much clearer you can explain the basics than anyone else I've found. Thanks Del you legend!
You have taught me so much. You are my absolute favorite. I owe 90% or my modification and repair to your videos. Thank you so much. You are the BEST!
So it looks like it is all in the preparation of the work that will deliver the best results.
Hi guys, great vid as usual. A little tip for ya. Try standing your cans in warm water for ten minutes before using them. It boosts the pressure slightly and thins the paint making it atomise and flow a touch better. Keep up the good work peeps.
Hi Chris....oh there is so much i could have said...but it was over half our already... yeah, warming up the cans will expand the compressed air and push harder on the paint...it wont actually make it thinner... there is a fixed amount of thinners sealed in there and thats it....but like you said, it atomises better and lays on smoother.... also garage temperature means so much.. minimum 65 degrees...and 80 if possible... but this is England aye...so we work with what we have lol....!! cheers buddy. Del.
YES I ALSO DO THAT AND ALSO PAINT AT 55 TO 60 DEGREES TO AVOID ORANGE PEEL . ALSO TO AVOID RUNS I DONT SPRAY ON THE BACK STROKE AND TRY TO STAY 12 INCHES AWAY FROM SURFACE
ED USA
Thanks for covering bike.. I was thinking overspray.. GREAT INFO !!
much thanks for tutorial, getting ready to paint expensive after market fender. I especially like the tip on buying cheap paint and practicing hand eye coordination I feel confident in takin on job myself
Just found this video and page. We're doing a bike build at home as a 'dad' project. That includes doing the basic painting ourselves. Thanks. Very helpful.
My friend rattled can a 1957 Chevy and it looks like it was painted by a professional. It has a nice glossy white and cherry red.
I used to work at an auto parts store at one point. The best part was that some of the rattlecans would be on clearance for a nickel a can due to them being a discontinued color. So I managed to get 15 cans of Duplicolor for less than $1.00! I've got enough paint to do 5 or more motorcycles, including the frames. So for everyone out there always ask your local parts houses if they have any clearance paint. Sometimes they do when their resupply truck comes in.
Once again a very well made video, thanks a lot. Take care.
So much knowledge in these videos! Much appreciated.
Great video. Ive been rattle canning for nye on 55 years. And i might add , doing it wrong. Thanks.
There's no wrong buddy, as long as you're happy with what you're doing, it's about the journey aye?! Thanks for taking the time to comment Nova, it's much appreciated.. have a great week!
Thank you both. Great filming and great explanation. With practice and preparation this excellent video has given me the confidence to re spray my Vespa. The myth that you can’t achieve a lovely finish with a rattle can has been laid to rest. Cheers!
Thank you Giles, you're most welcome, glad it worked out for you!
Hi Del thanks mate for getting back to me my main concern was how they would react when the exhaust got hot and who would thought cola and silver paper thanks mate much appprieciated Bob,
2021 172K subscribers, a bit more than the 50.000 mentioned in the end titles... and well deserved, thank You for your videos!
Yes, Thank you mate, as time rolls on everything grows on a nice steady basis, and it's good to look back to where we were then!
Very close on the aerosol contents, but there is no compressed air in a rattle paint can. The propellant is a typically a hydrocarbon. Usually a combination of propane and butane or iso-butane. It mixes with the solvent and paint as a single phase liquid (solids do settle, hence needing to shake) and the gas that boils off is the gaseous phase of the propellant. Since the propellant is dissolved in with the paint and solvent, when you spray it, the liquid propellant boils when it hits atmospheric pressure and helps break up the paint to give a nice fine mist. Because the propellant is constantly boiling off when the pressure drops inside the can, it boils some of it off as a gas and fills the headspace, equalizing the pressure inside the can. Compressed air as a propellant in an aerosol does not perform well. A compressed air propellant spray is more wet (larger droplet size) since it is only pushing it out of the can and not boiling off when sprayed. Also, as the product is used up in the can, the headspace increases and the can pressure lowers (P1)(V1)=(P2)(V2), so it starts high and drops off during use. Not consistent.
I thought I'd learnt everything from you in terms of painting based on all of the project videos I've watched, but it seems you proved me wrong! Great video cheers Del&Penny!
Thanks buddy... much appreciated!
I'm on a constant learning curve. Good to have you back filming Penny x ;-)At RIAT with my camera this week :-)Martin / Wiltshire
Thanks Martin, much appreciated mate.. !
Wonderful clarity of instruction, thank you SO much!
Thanks Andrew, glad you enjoyed !
Love your personality and attention to detail
Thank you Denis, much appreciated!
Excellent. Im a paintsprayer by trade. Industrial but use a couple of devilbiss and Wagner paint guns finishing ones too and the divers airfed mask industrial paint booth . Very informative video for my bikes. Thanks.
One thing Delboy have you any dent pulling or filling videos for bike tanks?
The trick is to make sure you are getting cans with the fan tips. A tool that’s worth every cent / pound is the MIXQUICK that goes on a reciprocal saw. 32:27
I really appreciate how you explained this so well. I learned a lot! Thanks.
Mate of mine used to spray bikes using cans and won best paint against professionals. As he said its all in the prep
That B Bike Show last year was a knockout mate. Really enjoyed the whole day and never have I seen so many bikes in one place. If I don't make it, have a good one, hopefully see you there.
AYE,,,,,YOU COMING TO BEAULIEU...? Gizza ring on the blower if you iz!!!
+Moonfleet41
Will do Brother.
Hi Del and Penny,
Greetings from Sydney, Australia 🖐
As usual, excellent video. Very informative and practical advice. Keep up the good work. 👏👏👏
Thanks Denis mate.. you're very kind.. really appreciate you wathcing and taking the time to comment... all the best mate.. Del.
I truly enjoy the videos. 👍
I have recently used your videos in my class (high school) to try and encourage some of my students to get their hands dirty and look after their bikes/cars. Some of them have started driving and bought their first vehicle or motorcycle. I am trying to encourage the driver/rider safety by encouraging them to regularly maintain their vehicles.
Thank you on behalf of my students!
Hi Denis, good to hear from you mate... and what an honour to be promoted to your students! Nurturing young riders and road users, is so important to us and vitally important to the bike community, as without them we have no tomorrow ... it's really humbling to be treated as some form of tutor, and am so glad we are able to help in some way... please express to any of them that they are welcome to drop us a line if they need any tips, or guidance, or just to say Hi ! Ride safe and enjoy the roads !
Well explained Del, you would have made a great manual arts (shop) teacher. Very relieved that Penny is not under the patio!
Hi mate, thanks for that, very kind of you, it's cool to pass on the things we know, knowledge doesn't cost anything, but passing it on can really benefit others ... thanks for watching, gald you enjoyed it !
Really helpful explanations - thanks :) rattle can practice happening
Thanks buddy.. get stuck in and enjoy your painting..
WOW…Surprised to see you wearing an ACE CAFE T-shirt. LOL. Terrific job with the video, as usual. But this time the best part for me was seeing Penny Pitstop again. Yha..SHE’s BACK!!
Ha ha thanks Jim... she's never far away mate,!
Hello from San Diego California USA!
Hi there Pablo, great to hear from you, what a beautiful place you live !
Looking for tips and found ....ahhhhhhhh
ok the base is everything . The shine will not matter if theres awful stuff showing through . Prep and prep again . If in doubt ..... any doubt prep yet again . Its worth it honest . To waste paint is expensive when you could have filled that little mark , etc . Go round and around and around . Rattle cans will never give depth to hide issues so prep is everything .
High build is the absolute daddy . It hides the small stuff but needs a decent cutting back with 800/1200 grit once done . All the pin holes and poor rubbing back go away with a decent coat . Consider it before spraying a base colour/top coat .
The final spray . Dont do as he says whatever you do .
A dust coat ..... as it says you dust it on following the lines of the tank first and filling in between but not aiming to cover it all with the first pass . This stops runs and runination of everything upto that point plus gives a layer the paint likes to stick to .
Do a few of these until the tanks primer is covered without shades showing through . Then a resonable cost is applied . Not too wet , you are looking to get an all over cover the same depth .
Final is a `wet` coat .
The wet is the talent . Too much and you get a run , too little and you dont get a flat surface .
A run , if its not got a flec in it , can be rubbed back ( 1200 grit wrapping a credit card on the run alone ) .
Once the wets done consider a clear coat . If its the right sort of paint ( a base without flec ) you can cut it back to create the best surface possible then a light glassy clear will be the absolute best hard wearing finish possible . A couple of clear then cut it back using 2000 grit lightly followed by t-cut or g3 gives a factory finish . Flec in it then if you get a run its sort of tough shit and start again .
you can buy loads of different types of nibs/nozzles for spray cans. from fat caps to skinny caps.
Good advice right there..!
Thanks del for that,, it certainly helps 😊 it's been something that I have struggled with in the past.
I painted my 01 Fazer 600 a couple years back with rattle cans. I did sand the paint back to get a glass finish. But I do find the clear paint in a rattle can " used Motip'' to soft and it scratches to easily. For the clear I always go to the paint shop to get me 2k clear in a rattle can. Expensive but durable. Pic's of the bike are on my FB. chears
Yeah , you're right, 2k clear is far more durable and well worth the extra money!
Good video, very informative and entertaining and also great camera work!
To get a better finish warm the can in some hot water. It helps the paint flow better. WARNING DO NOT HEAT WITH FLAME!!! Lol! Just use warm water, and let it stand in it till it is warmed up
You have just changed my life.
Reminds me of Mr. Bean painting the interior of his appartment.
hi dell ta for the advice i will keep it in mind
A great insight Del. Great tips, and information .
Cheers Pete.
Thanks Peter.
+Moonfleet41 I have finally had ago at a bit of steel fabrication. what's your email address, I'll send you a pic if that's OK. ta Ian.
Hi Ian, email address gets up to 100 mails a day, and anything with picture attachements just gets sent to spam... don't know why, can't seem to control it... best way to make sure we get is poke it on facebook through our facebook link... should be able to link it to there,,, look forward to seeing it mate, thanks Del
hi Del i use a hairdryer in between coats and you dont get no runs and it bakes it on, keep up the good work.
Hi buddy, a garage over 65degrees and 15mins between coats is all you need... hairdryer works ok, but if you dry a skin over the top too quickly then you trap the thinners underneath it, which will fight to get out and split the surface, causing a crazy paved effect, so take it easy with the hairdryer if you're doing heavy coats - I've trashed a couple of paint jobs that way !
Really well put together video fella. nicely done.
Excellent simple skills video!
Thanks D&P. Great video.
Thanks mate, much appreciated !
Love this series! keep up the great work mate.
Thanks Bob..
You just keep getting better, But I am still not confident to try spraying myself yet.
Stay well.
Hi Ian, why not get an old tin dustbin and simply practice with some cheap rattle cans?? How hard can it be lol !
Never thought of that. Pound shop rattle cans and a old handlebar I have. Thanks Delboy I think I will give it a go next week when I am off.
Cheers again.
Day off with full pay 😀
Got a cup of tea,delboys garage... Chill time 😀🇬🇧
"Day off with full pay"... thats has such a classy ring to it aye...lol
+Moonfleet41 haha ;) when the t shirts available m8? I still need a xxl :)
Great simple skills video over due really. Excellent explanation. .... Hi Penny! :)
Thanks mate, have covered it brief over the years, and will be doing more in depth as the project rolls on !
Thinking of doing my exhaust today! Although I don't have a garage and it is rather cold out, so maybe not the best idea
If you do thin layers, and build it up... it should be fine.... Good luck with it.. Del.
I guess your Kawasaki is safe from overspray, but it makes me a bit nervous with that nice red tank sitting there.
I like to use the "trigger" plastic snap on thing for a rattle can, I find personally this gives a person even more touch and control rather than depressing the push down nozzle manually........ also you have to be careful when spraying up side down to clear the nozzle, if you do it too many times for too long you'll lose the propellant near the end of the can, i.e.: you'll have paint left but no propellant to push it out.
Those can guns can often interupt the patch of the spray coming out, and lead to a drip falling on the job....ive also had a can actually fall out of the gun... so dont trust them meself..!
Good points, I've been lucky I guess
Great videos.
Im a rattle can pro i paint all my stuff with rattle can i just did my harley with krylon 2 coats then wet sanded then did third coat wet sand and i get a clear in a rattle can that has a hardner that is in the can ,you take this red piece from the cap and its fits on the nipple on bottom of can and you smack it on the bench and it breaks open the harder inside the can shake for a few minutes and its good for 24 hrs its called k2 . my buddies dont believe me when they see my work that its spray bomb but the most important part is wet sand between coats and it will be as smooth as glass if you dont then it will be all orange peel looking so take the time to wet sand and it will look great
Yet another brilliant video delboy, I would like to know if you could do a video for spraying the bike fairings as I did mine a few years ago and had a dreadful time. No videos showing how to spray plastics.
Hi Elf, have done lots of how to spray stuff and whether it's plastic, or metal, it's the same procedures, not sure if you're using rattle cans, or a spray gun, but the techniques and procedures are the same when it comes to laying on the material, the usual drill, overlap each line of paint over the last one, 15mins between coats, and all the usual prep underneath.. have done loads of videos containing paint advice, I think there's even a simple skills one called 'Rattle Can Paint' so not sure what else I can do - maybe tell me what problem you're having and I could advise on that individually for you?
Runs and dust getting in the paint is the worst. Damp towels help keep dust away. To stop runs I start with a very light coat that doesn't fully cover everything and wait 10 mins before I can do a full coat. Another trick is to turn the nozzle to the side at the end of each swipe.
Lots of tricks we use to make them work aye, thanks Blake..!
just wanted to say , I got rattle cans made up at our local motor factors. they have a huge book showing many manufacturer's colours. These cans were about £7 each but the nozzles can be taken apart and also they spray an oval similar to a spray gun. We went for metallic followed by an off the shelf lacquer. That way we built a few coats of lacquer and then cut them back, result was amazing. But remembered to wipe the nozzle every so often as this stopped spitting. Love your vids and now subscribed.
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoy the videos, loads more in the back catalogue, so hopefully something helpful in them! Much appreciate the sub mate, ride safe, Del
Hi Del, another fascinating video, very helpful. It was a real treat to meet you and and the lovely Penny at Harley on Sunday. Thanks for the advise on my up and coming Harley purchase. The Sportster was definitely too small. I will be trying a Dyna this week. The other consideration was an Indian Scout. Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks again, Lee
Hi there Lee... so good to meet you too mate, how cool we all ended up riding down the road together..lol.. I dont have any epxerience of the Indian range at all im afraid.. i really like the riding position on the Victory Hi Ball... but not the engine delivery.. just feels like a Jap bike..! But if you are in the market for a big cruiser...then you absolutely MUST try them all out.. The Scout 60 im told by a buddy is really good.. but not tried one myself.. and of course the Dyna family have lots of options.... also dont forget the Triumph Thunderbird range..!!? enjoy your shopping buddy.. its the best therapy in the world ever right..?.. Take care and see you again.. Del.
+Moonfleet41 Thanks Del, good advise. I will try them all. I hadn't thought about the Triumph. All the best, Lee
I can paint great with a can of paint, at first, it was hard but after a few years of sandblasting and industrial painting spray can simple
Nice lil tips there Del. Now maybe the next time I try do a lil spraying i'll get a better finish. Hope to make it to that rally on the 10th. so watch out for some geez saying yeah Del boy lol
Excellent news Chris.... we'll be there mate to come on over and say hello.. Look forward to it buddy..!
thank you!
I used alot of rattle cans on bmx frames when I was younger and the amount of cans I knackered up by not turning upside down and spraying after use like you just shown me is a real bummer so thanks Del! I was given a tip about rattle cans and that was to put them in warm water before I used them? Not sure if its a pro or con Del? Hats off to Penny on the camera too! Great video thank you see you next time!
Aiden
Hi buddy... the heating of cans is only a relevant in cooler weather towards the end of the can when its running out... as the fluid is pushed out, the pressure drops, obviously...so its not pushing out so hard...warming the can will expand the compressed air and help to push the last of the paint out, and any method of warming will do, it doesnt have to be stood in warm water...a hair drier, run it under the hot tap, even leave it in the sun on a window sill between coats lol .........BUT. you must NEVER heat a full can mate...ive had them split and open up sending paint everywhere...so only whne they are over half emtpy...but if your garage is over 70 degrees, you find you dont need to.!
+Moonfleet41 Thanks for the tips mate 🖒 I'm sure it'll come in handy to me in a few months time. I've always enjoyed spraying but go frustrated when cans clogged up on me and I never understood why. But, now I do so thanks! Look forward to the next video mate. The bikes getting there slowly 😊 Absolutely no rush though.. rome wasn't built in a day and all that eh? 😉🤘
facebooked and twitted! thanks Del and Penny
Nice work mate. Enjoyed that and very useful (currently spraying some fairings) made a bit of a hash of the primer stage which is off to a great start ha
Oh well, doesn't always go according to plan mate - but I always see reactions, runs and flare ups in the paint as clearly a mistake I've made, and something I can tehn learn from... we learn by practice aye?? Good luck with it mate...
Ok, you have a new subscriber.
Cheers
Hi there, welcome aboard, and thank you for all your kind comments... with a rattle can, best distance is maybe 10-12" from the work piece, and passing at a speed that lays a nice wet coat on, but not too much to overload it... there is a little practice involved, but once you get a grip of it, you can make some great results and patience between coats is a great asset... don't re-coat too soon!
@@Moonfleet41 Ok thank you.
Right now I'm in the process of restoring a moped so i want to get the paint job right.
Cheers
You are the Best Man!
Sorta on the rattle can topic "HemiStorm RC" on you tube does wonders with rattle cans .
my bandit is so greatful for the attention you have taught me to give it. looking to take it up a level and give the engine a paint over the next 2 weeks. what paint would you use for this? thanks Colin
Hi Colin, you can buy a wide range of heat proof engine paints...you dont need a full on manifold paint, which is usually flat matt finish...but the medium range stuff up to about 350 degrees comes in lots of cool colours, black, grey, silver, etc.. check out the options in the auto shops... lots to choose from buddy.. Good luck.. Del
I'm thinking of changing the color of my bike to Matt black would I have to sand it down to bear metal/plastic or after sanding can I just put a good primer on and crack on,thanks Del in advance
Hi Del/Penny another good vid, keep em coming
Thanks Stephen..
Great simple skills! I admire your knowledge of all things you show us. But if you're looking for more veiwers and a video that's easy to watch, then I think a short and compact video is the way forward! Lovely t-shirt by the way! Have you ever been there? Ride safe
By the very nature of a Simple Skills video, you are pitching your dialogue at new, novice people who watch it for insight on how to achieve a finish that they struggle to when they do it themselves - there are already half a dozen things I missed, such as lay up time between coats, the concept of sanding between coats, wet sanding with soap, or without soap, using acrylics, or enamel paints, the subject it massive, but kept the matter clear and concise to making a flawless base, keeping everything clean and then practice and patience, with the physical hand skills of the can... what you're referring to, in your suggestion, in keeping videos short, is perhaps that people are more likely to watch a 3min video, by it's very nature, a 3min video would show people nothing, other than a result... we don't do this to seek more viewers, but to help those that chose to view... we strive to produce some 'different' on the internet amongst the 'white noise' of " here's one I did earlier" ... those who are not interested in what we do, can fast forward, or just switch off... there's an audience for everyone aye?
A Brookside reference! Proper old school
Brookside reference..? wracking me brain..what did i say?
Really enjoy these simple skills vids. Keep em coming!
Surprised you never covered the issue of temperature though and when its best to paint.
Hi mate, so many things I didn't cover and already been criticised for a 'too long a video'! At least half a dozen vital things that could have been spoken about, flash off times, garage temps., sanding between coats, what chemical to clean with, the list is endless... truth is, I could make it a 2 week course and still only scratch the surface, but rest assured, we will cover it all as time goes on, just about to start on the fuel tank, and there will be lots of bodywork processes in that one !
Looking forward to that . Fascinating stuff.
Personally I have no complaints about the length of your videos. Longer ones just mean you can go into the subject in more depth which is always good. I love the way you start off now showing the setting up before hand. Get to see more of the garage as well.
Brilliant video , one of the best yet! I was literally thinking of Petes SprayPainting videos while watching this ; between the both of you , can't go wrong!
Do you know anything about the Brushed metal look & the application of a top coat to it?
Also want to stripes down the side to cover the isopon bodyfiller that has levelled out the fairing clips i chopped off ; so from what you've stated A basic primer will suffice?
Hi guys. Well, every day is a school day after all. If I want to paint some plastic panels, do I have to sand and prime before painting? It seems like a lot of effort for just a bit of paint
fantastic news about rattle cans! i did my pushbike and was very pleased with the results. what's the best bike for a first time enthusiast do you reckon, 125, or does it not matter?
Sir Palomides
thanks, I have a full license, just asking about an easy bike to start customising!
Awesome video my friend. You're exactly right with your analogy. One request though, you hold the camera and put the girl on the screen 😜
Btw, If you need a California license plate for your collection let me know and I will hook you up with one 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
brilliant you genius !!
Nice one Del & great to see & hear Penny again.
I'm saving all these s.s videos, as they are great for reference when working with my boy. I'm using the old rattle cans myself just now, painting my bobber project. Been wet sanding using 1200 between each coat, primer and all.
Cheers for explaining the block sanding technique though, makes sense if you think about it. Have you ever used one of the clip on handle things with the rattle cans? Liking the progress on this mate, look forward to seeing your mate do his magic.
Cheers again, Ride safe, Al.
Hi Alan, i think those things you refered to are called "can guns" and i have used one but it collected a tiny but if the exiting spray as the clip inpeded the path of the outlet...and that then dripped on the job... i got proficient with the old finger a long time ago..it just feels more in control to simply press on it..! No need to flat down with 1200 "between coats"... thats a bit exxcessive and a waste of time buddy... you can paint over the last coat with a 15 minute gap...then flat the lot on one go once its fully dry in a few days... 1200 is only really for polishing and finishing... 800 is plenty fine enough if you're prepping for a new colour or meterial..!!! good luck with it chap.. Del.
Another informative video. Do you have any that deal with maybe putting a larger gastank on a sportster?
Yes buddy... we made a video putting a full size Sportster tank on a HD 48 - it's in the Harley playlist and the same process applies to any EFI tank !
Moonfleet41 Thanks, mate. Love your vids, extremely detailed! Thanks for the reply. Be safe.
Hi any tips on how to prep and paint a Memphis shades fairing with rattle cans?
tongue tied even before the paint fumes lol
did you see the episode of American hotrod where duane told one of the new guys he had to shake the can until the ball inside had desolved lol he spent half the day shaking a can only to be told oh that one must be faulty try another lmao, poor kid,
Ha ha, i rememebr that well... what a dipshit aye..! how can a brainless narb like that get a job with Boyd Coddington building Hotrods.....?
ironic you put this up Del .. I have paint ( plastidip) arriving in a couple of days ..gonna paint my Bandit 1200
Good luck with the Plasticdip buddy... drop us a line if you need any tips.. had loads of experiece with that..(and loads of grief lol)..!
You certainly need to treat it with kid gloves aye..!
I totally understand it is NOT paint..I have had my saddle bags Plasitdipped for the last 2 years...only point of extreme caution I will need it when gassing up
I just took all the plastidip off my saddle bags with Goo Gone ...maybe I should have used gas?? other then the fact that it might catch fire.,,,nah ...bad idea !!...LOL
Another great demystification buddy. I really need to get to grips with paint work, I've been guilty of some proper travesties over the years. See you Sunday :)
Yeah, but that why we love Ratbikes aye... we can say we wanted it that way..!!!!!! lol.. See you Sunday buddy..!
you really deserve more viewers. just got my mc endorsement last nov cant wait to get my first bike its killin me lol
Thanks buddy, good luck with your test, and enjoy shopping for a bike ! Glad that the videos can help and inspire you... !
I took the riders course best thing one can do. all that's left is the bike been so indecisive, how's the scrambler treatin you
Hi Max, Penny has the Scrambler now, lowered, she loves it, easy to ride, forgiving and light weight... really enjoying it !
PS I seriously hope that Penny also wears a mask. We don't any harm to happen to the Miss. Do we? lol
Brilliant video !!! What products and procedure would you use to achieve a matt finish (not matt wrap)? Keep them vids coming, inspirational and helpful stuff...
Hi Andrew.. You just buy matt paint for a matt finish, easy enough, and lay it up the same was as any other paint.. just done polish it..!! Thanks for your kind comments my friend..
Brilliant, so no need for flat finish clear coat??
Not really mate.. you can buy matt clearcoat, but most matt paints dont need clearcoating...
3 P's of painting - Practice, Preparation, Patience.... Practice the technique, Prepare the job AND your materials, Patience to wait the appropriate amount of time between coats AND not try to do it all in one coat.
Wise words well said David...and that last line can only come from someone who has tried to do it all on one coat (and realised the hard way lol)..aint we all mate.. thanks aye.!
Hi del can you help me, what do recommend for cleaning chrome and protecting the chrome on the exhaust system and, chrome spoked wheels and I have noticed the odd small spot of rust so would appreciate your advice mate what you can use to clean and protect the chrome thanks from Bob
Hi Robert... there are many great chrome cleaning products on the market, i guess it depends how bad the corrosion is.... if its just a light discolouration you can use good old "Silvo" to bring back the bluey lustre, but if its proper rust and scabby... then there is a great "Grandma trick" using Tin foil and Cola.... yeah, you read that right.. here, have a watch..! th-cam.com/video/j47BzWv4fck/w-d-xo.html
Paint with a paintbrush out of a can in your garage... enamel paints are self leveling. No breathing spray can aerosols, no over spray, no airgun setup or booth necessary, work at your own pace, paint as little or as much as you want in a session and put then put the lid back on the can. Clean your brushes or thin the paint with acetone. Dry in your oven for an hour at 200 F, let cool, and it will be dry enough to handle and no longer sticky. Let sit for a week before you apply a second coat or install the part. Enamel from a can is old school tough as nails, the only thing tougher is epoxy paints which require mixing.
Guys are funny, they'll pick up a high amp welder or grinder and throw molten lead, fumes, and sparks all over the place without a second thought, but they are absolutely mortified of a paint brush. "You'll get paint streaks", they cry, "that's not the professional way to do it like I see in the auto body shops!" I'm looking at dozens of parts I painted last month as well as a boat trailer frame, and I can't find a single paint streak anywhere. I'm not using any particular technique.
Sounds like old school 'Coach Painting".
Rolls Royces were painted that way 100 years ago... nowt new under the sun aye!
When I worked in a (Vauxhall Bedford) garage we had an ex-Rolls Royce painter there, and one customer who had all his lorries brush painted. Lenton Transport, Lenton Green wagons. The guy used brushing cellulose for the job and when it was finished it always looked superb, at least as good as a professional spray job. Prep, practice and knowing what you’re doing! Les
hey choppergirl airwar; I am looking to paint my fork stations (the lower bit?) of my standard forks...and I am eager to do it the best I can...bearing in mind I am a complete novice. Of course moonfleets videos are FANTASTIC...but am intrigued by this enamelling. As the stations are round, how do I stop any runs if brush painting?Thank you BOTH!
(P) Wax on, wax off - love it! See you on Sunday :)
Too right buddy... cant naffin wait..!
I always warm the paint in bowl of hot water but not sure it makes a difference
Hi mate, this is an old wives tale, but there is a tiny bit of use in it... works on the simple principle that air expands when it gets hotter, so warming the can increases the internal pressure, which pushes it out the can under ore force and that, in turn, makes it atomise finer, but this in turn , if you are too far away from the subject, can lead to the particles of paint being so tiny that they dry before they hit the surface and cause a 'grainy' finish... the only time warming the can is useful is towards the end of the quantity of paint where, as the fluid leve drops, the pressure drops and the atomisation suffers, so warming the can with a hairdryer as the level drops can help to keep the pressure up right to the last drop!
Thanks Del makes a lot of sence
hi dell and penny
good to see the build. coming along and you are making good use of some of the music i sent you.
so i have a question for you dell.
as you know i have my katana 1100 sitting in the garage still not ready for the road. i panted with cans. now here my question...? what type of clear coat do i use so the color paint will not come off when exposed to things like petrol. . i was thinking of using k2.. is that the right way to go..?
Hi mate, sorry I did get your message in the main tsream email but been a bit swamped and hadn't got to it yet... ! So with your paint, yes, 2k is best, in fact anything with a chemical hardener, the way this works in terms of physics (or chemistry!) is that an evaporation paint is solids left behind after solvent evaporates- when you re-introduce solvent, it can re-activate the solvents in to a liquid and wash them off again... and petrol is a pretty good solvent , but a 2k process involves a chemical hardener which is effectively an Epoxy resin....and once cured, it cannot be reactivated....which makes it petrol proof.. You can buy it in rattle cans with a special container that you activate to mixe the hardener when you're ready.....and most decent paint suppliers will sell them... Hope that helps you buddy.. thanks again for the kewl music, it makes all the difference to have out own choonz..! take care and keep in touch.. Del.
Thanx to you.. I was not 100% sure. Thats why i askes you. And your welcome. . feel free to use the other tracks i sent you to.. Make me proud to hear my music on your channel and that someone appreciate the work that gose in to making a track.
How close should you be to the work when you are spraying it? anyone know?
Thank you
I wonder why every time I see you with a rattle can, I start shaking my cell phone.
Really makes watching the video challenging.
will penny b doing a simple skills "long wood short wood" lmao brilliant haha :D
Couldn't word it better myself! After final coat we need probably 600grit rub down (or green scotch brite) Then we can start airbrushing. Once done start coating with clear lacquer. Few days later it can and should be polished with 1000 - 1500 - 2000 and even 2500 wet. Then polishing and finishing compound either by hand or machine pads and mirror like / glass finished guaranteed, with no imperfections and no dust marks whatsoever. Seems like a long process, but all worth it in the end. And as you know it painting itself its the shortest and probably most enjoyable part of the whole "painting" process.
check out this sample I made some time ago - th-cam.com/video/HVPgm2quuok/w-d-xo.html
Thats just awesome brother... cant wait to get stuck in..!
Same here ;)
Saw your latest feature in 100% today.... nice Rat'chop you little dark horse...lol
+Moonfleet41 thanks. two more features coming soon...but I know nothing;)
Jessie James got nuffing on you mate...!
She's awesome!! HAHA!
There is no hardener in rattle can paint or clear coat and it comes out too soft for car or motorcycle body jobs.
No thats right.. its evaporation dried....It is a 'second best' thats for sure, but as long as you dont lay too much on, and let it dry right out... you can have it clearcoated in 2K laquer which will protect it properly..!
I hope the camera lady was wearing a mask.
do you go to Faro meeting?
Its a 3,000 mile round trip my friend.. so not this year.!
Get a fan spray cap off amazon