One thing you may want to change is the yellow plastic fitting were you fill the hydraulic fluid. Mine has gotten water in it so many times. Put a hydraulic breather plug in it's place. To do that you'll need a street 45 then screw the breather in that. Good video
I have a 4200. The loader moves good but the 3 point hitch won’t move up or down. When I hit the lever you can hear it try to engage but nothing happens. When I open the hydraulic fill cap it looks empty but the eye glass shows a proper level. Any idea what is going on?
I have a John Deere 1050. Even with the manual I can't find the gauge to check the hydraulic fluid or where to fill it. I have a 8 back hoe. must be out of fluid. Back hoe won't work but front bucket does.
Sorry about the delay youtube doesn't always alert us when we have a comment for some reason. Ive heard that before. In my opinion it's 6 to one half a dozen to the other. I don't think it really helps or hurts and I haven't heard a compelling argument to do it.
Where did you get the parts to change out the hydraulic screen, I need to order a new one and cant find the part number anywhere also, what part number is the hydraulic oil filter number?
So linkage being kind of an interchangeable term I’m not certain exactly what issue you’re having. Usually when things quit working on a slope it’s for one of two reasons. The first is liquid reservoir pickups and low fluids. As in fluids can’t get to the path they’re supposed to go because there’s no enough or they were never designed to work on slopes that steep. Got a logger on our property now who’s skidded stops on hills because the pickup for fuel is at the front of the tank. The next is with with little pins that lock things in place that simply don’t work on hills when pins shear. Can you tell me a little more specifically what’s going on?
@@timberlinetactical Problem solved and thanks for the help. Just topped up hydraulic oil. Now the 3 point hitch has power again and works on the hill. Many thanks :)
But what? I didn’t show what cleanup I did. There were two oil pans used, the tractor was on a trailer and i cleaned up any spilt oil afterwards. So... maybe you should consider there’s aspects not on film instead of just assuming I allowed oil to go all over.
Any chance the glass screen could give a false reading? Strange things going on, I added 2 gallons, drove better (glass still showed empty), about a month later it showed full (steering and box blade difficulty/slow), now showing near empty again, but no signs of leaks. Now granted I added 1 gal at a time to anticipate any false readings, feels like I made it worse. Any suggestions?
best video, appreciate your guide and steps.
That shorter filter is for the gear drive model. Taller one is for the hydrostatic model. Just had this conversation at my dealer's parts counter.
Good to know!
Just found your video, excellent thank you sir. I've got a 4300 deere like seeing videos of that. Good idea work off of trailer no ticks
Thank you for watching! Glad you liked it!
One thing you may want to change is the yellow plastic fitting were you fill the hydraulic fluid. Mine has gotten water in it so many times. Put a hydraulic breather plug in it's place. To do that you'll need a street 45 then screw the breather in that. Good video
Good tutorial and DIY maintenance....Good stuff....
I really wish you’d have shown us where that screen is located!
I have a 4200. The loader moves good but the 3 point hitch won’t move up or down. When I hit the lever you can hear it try to engage but nothing happens. When I open the hydraulic fill cap it looks empty but the eye glass shows a proper level. Any idea what is going on?
I recently read that water likes to get in somewhere. Do you think this is the case
I have a John Deere 1050. Even with the manual I can't find the gauge to check the hydraulic fluid or where to fill it. I have a 8 back hoe. must be out of fluid. Back hoe won't work but front bucket does.
Sorry im not more help Im not familiar with that model enough
I was told when putting the hydraulic filter back in, saturate it with fluid before placing back in. Your recommendation?
Apologies, not fluid but with gas or at least cleaning it with gas.
Sorry about the delay youtube doesn't always alert us when we have a comment for some reason. Ive heard that before. In my opinion it's 6 to one half a dozen to the other. I don't think it really helps or hurts and I haven't heard a compelling argument to do it.
Where did you get the parts to change out the hydraulic screen, I need to order a new one and cant find the part number anywhere also, what part number is the hydraulic oil filter number?
Telicia Boggess your local dealer should have it but the screen doesn’t need changed just cleaned unless it’s damaged.
Telicia Boggess I believe the part number is am 102723 but check with your dealer.
Good vid, question for you if you dont mind. My tractors linkage does not work when I am on a slope. Any ideas as to why?
So linkage being kind of an interchangeable term I’m not certain exactly what issue you’re having. Usually when things quit working on a slope it’s for one of two reasons. The first is liquid reservoir pickups and low fluids. As in fluids can’t get to the path they’re supposed to go because there’s no enough or they were never designed to work on slopes that steep. Got a logger on our property now who’s skidded stops on hills because the pickup for fuel is at the front of the tank. The next is with with little pins that lock things in place that simply don’t work on hills when pins shear. Can you tell me a little more specifically what’s going on?
@@timberlinetactical Problem solved and thanks for the help. Just topped up hydraulic oil. Now the 3 point hitch has power again and works on the hill. Many thanks :)
@@clarissemoustache838 glad I could help!
To Bro, should really do a better job of cleaning up while you are working. I am not a tree hugger, but
But what? I didn’t show what cleanup I did. There were two oil pans used, the tractor was on a trailer and i cleaned up any spilt oil afterwards. So... maybe you should consider there’s aspects not on film instead of just assuming I allowed oil to go all over.
Any chance the glass screen could give a false reading? Strange things going on, I added 2 gallons, drove better (glass still showed empty), about a month later it showed full (steering and box blade difficulty/slow), now showing near empty again, but no signs of leaks. Now granted I added 1 gal at a time to anticipate any false readings, feels like I made it worse. Any suggestions?