@@combatseawolf Some suspension parts are interchangeable but not things like the electronics. If you buy a “Readyset” you are stuck with the radio that comes with it. That’s fine if you’re racing against a bunch of the same type. It’s a great way to get into racing mini-z. But if you want to race open/modified you want an evo, or one of the other brand cars that are “legal” for racing. I’m out right now but I’ll try to give you some names/sites later today.
Unknown… it depends on the rules of the club you race at. Some clubs limit stock to the readyset cars. Some allow the addition of bearings. I’ve never seen any place check cars prior to a race. I’d imagine if the race was part of a series where prizes or at least trophies were awarded they would check the cars. If you’re trying to make a decision to purchase, I’d contact the club where I’ll be doing the majority of my racing and ask what’s legal.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott true, but from what I've seen EVO is not usually considered box stock, it would usually run in the stock, or if you've changed it out to a more powerful motor then super stock or mod.
Bodys… between a perfect colored body and the white not colored body are for usually 10-20€. Just buy two perfect colored, one for display, one for racing^^
Imma try to save yall a few hundred on whats gotten me my best setup for my LM EVO. Get the evo, a fs Noble NB4, the cheaper programming stick for the EVO cars, and a PN Chassis so you've got the rear oil shock there already, get the front oil shock kit and kyosho oils kit, do the front flip, get the rear side shocks, gimbal, and motor mount that goes with the gimbal from PN racing. A spring kit for each shock you have (oil front and rear and non oil side shocks), get the full set of toe in steering bars, and get tires (i prefer radials) to taste. You'll be basically set. This thing runs like a DREAM.
At the track where I'm going to be doing the majority of my racing, the LM chassis length is only allowed in the LeMans class. It's a very open class and a lot of people are running pan car chassis'. I love the CanAm/LeMans bodies like the Sauber-Mercedes, the Mazda 787B and the Toyota GT-One. There are lexan windshield/window replacements available for the Mercedes and the Mazda to lighten the body and lower the CG. BTW, thanks for the advice! Which PN chassis do have? Is it the PNR2.5W? That looks like a great upgrade! Kenon has them with no electronics and with the EVO or the DSM2 board installed. That looks like a great starting point for a build. There are so many front suspension configurations available... it's hard to choose. But, I usually believe that it's good to stay with one manufacturers stuff, so if I got a PN chassis, I'd probably go with one of their front end and rear pod setups. The pan cars from Atomic and GL Racing are also very good cars. I just got a GLR-GT and will be doing a full build series on it soon. Here's a link: www.microrcsyndicate.com/product/glr-gt-1-28-rwd-chassis-w-o-rx/546?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=18 BTW, this vendor MicroRC Syndicate are great! They are super fast on order processing and delivery, at least within the US. They don't sponsor me or anything like that... I just try to give props to good vendors. Kenon is also top notch. Keep the comments coming and please share my channel with your RC friends. Thanks for watching! CJ
Unfortunately the readyset mini-z cars are locked to the basic receiver/transmitter. I believe there is a way to use a different transmitter but it is a Kyosho transmitter and it’s very pricy. The receiver is part of the controller board and can’t be replaced or upgraded. It’s one of the reasons the readyset cars are so inexpensive.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok thanks, I appreciate your answering this. I know it may be obvious to folks who have been around this stuff for a long time, but I'm just getting going and despite a lot of searching for an answer to that question I hadn't found one until you responded!
@@cosmicstuff44 Hey, don’t feel like it was a stupid question. When I got started in mini-z, I had a lot of questions and had a hard time getting answers. I had the same question too. It didn’t make sense that there wasn’t a way to upgrade the readyset especially since the stock transmitter has so much lag. To get a competitive car, you have to make a big investment… for example, a good transmitter for mini-z is much more expensive than a descent 3ch trans. It’s actually less expensive to start racing 1/10 touring cars if you buy budget equipment that can still be competitive. There’s no middle of the road for mini-z… but it’s a fun class to race. Feel free to ask any questions you have and I’ll answer if I can. Regards, CJ
Wheels, tires, body, transmitter/receiver --- Wheels $10-15USD. Tires $10-15USD. (Can find wheel/tire combos for $15-25USD) Body $50-60USD. Transmitter $200-300 (the NB4 w a EVO reciever), receiver separate $50USD. Light kit (optional) $10-15USD, gyro (optional) $10-15USD. Hope this helps. Sourcing the parts from cheaper places could reduce the cost.
HI, My name is Vince I have a question: I would like to order an inexpensive TX and RX for my future Kyosho Mini-x MR04 EVO 2! Can I use the Kyosho KT531P ? Do you ( or somebody) have a tip 🙏for an affordable TX and RX? e.g Vince
Unfortunately there are no inexpensive options. The EVO requires a receiver that mounts under the forward panel. It is an open circuit board with an antenna wire. The protocol depends on the transmitter/receiver you choose. The receivers are in the +$60 range and the transmitters are much more than the cheep 2 channel transmitters. This one at $244.99 is a good deal but it’s on back order on Amain Hobbies: Kyosho Flysky Noble NB4 4-Channel 2.4GHz Mini-Z EVO Radio System w/2 Receivers This is the transmitter I use.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thanks a lot !!! And a TX Kyosho KT531P with RX Kyosho 82041 MINI-Z EVO Receiver Unit KT531P 432PT fit on a MR04 EVO? Is it compatible?
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hi ! I bought the Noble NB4! I have 2 questions about the MR04 1) I have many types of LIPO batteries from the aéreo model fly ! Could I use the 2s lipo which are 7.4 volts? 2) could I also use the normal AAA Ni-MH Rechargeable?
Can't say for sure... most people who are drifting Mini-Zs are using the 4wd chassis. But it is a regular car with drift tires, and not a dedicated drift car. If you want a real drift car that is in the Mini-Z size/class (1/27-1/28) you should have a look at the GL Racing GL-Drift-2022. It's a real 2wd drift chassis with extreme angle steering. This is a kit and comes with a servo and an E$SC, you'll need to get a motor, gyro, batteries, wheels and tires, etc. So, it's not a cheap build, but it's a real 1/28th drift car! Here's a link: gl-racing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=564 This is a vendor from whom I buy a lot of my GL Racing products. This is the link to the GL-Drift-2022 page with all the upgrades/extras they carry. www.microrcsyndicate.com/shop/GLD/13 They ship within the US in a week or less... if they have the item(s) in stock.
Thanks for the tip! I bought 8 of those cutters for under $15 on Amazon, so not a big deal it they wear out over time. BTW, looks like you've got some good content on quads. I'll be checking out your channel!
Personally, I think telling newcomers to start with a $200 chassis, then spend another 400-600 on Tx, Rx, ESC, Body, Wheels, Tires, Misc, etc is HORRIBLE, in fact cruel, advice. Of course a ReadySet is not meant for racing out of the box, but it is a convenient and cost-effective way to start - and if they find that Mini-Z racing isn't for them, not a big deal. What you are suggesting is akin to telling a new driver to not bother with getting a Civic, just wait until you can afford a Corvette.
I agree.. a NEW NEW person should just buy a ready set.. 250 bucks after batteries, charger and tires. (and maybe a transponder if actually racing). and EVO is NOT for a new person. Now.. if they are very experienced in RC in general... and already have a good TX.. sure.. get an evo because you know what you are getting into.
@@tsl553 That wasn't the point was it - please watch video and reread my comment. Telling people to shell out massive amounts of cash at the ONSET is idiotic and unethical. Almost any hobby can be entered into for a small amount of money - and if its not for you, the loss is minimal.
@@TriAdX i agree.. i myself club race 1/10 scale off road.. i have the knowledge and the flysky noble so going that route is what i did.. new to rc folks are getting in way deep to be frustrated by not being able to control that brushless motor nor knowing how to use the radio controls/settings. those servos in those things are way fast a lot faster than the rtr versions, a new driver will find it frustrating trying to deal with that twitchy steering not knowing how to tone it down.
Huh...I didnt realize the evo came with an oil rear shock. My non evo car eventually became an evo and more... but its got like 300 in parts in it that I bought over the course of a year...lol. Hell...its oil shocks all around except the rear side shocks, which i couldn't get oil to fit, but the main rear shock does have oil damping. If you do the flip suspension mod on oil front shocks its AMAZING.
You can live without the dampened side shocks by installing a disk damper. They take a bit of experimenting with different greases and getting the right spring tension, but are an excellent solution... a lot less small parts to fiddle with too.
Truly, I have no idea... these cars are so small, it isn't really relevant. They go fast enough to fly off the track or traction roll over and over. Gearing, motor kv, and how much track length you have are big determiners of top speed. Lap times are far more important than a specific top speed.
Crazy how much a mini z set costs and it's that shitty! Miss xmods. They were priced reasonably and we had atomic mods and a bunch of aftermarket to support us. Sad no one picked up the name and kept building them. My mini z is fun but I have noticed some issues with it and it makes me sad at times, cause I expected better.
@@sloth1992 Mini-z is a niche area of the overall RC hobby. Things fall in and out of interest for no particular reason. The biggest being if the is racing at local clubs and shops. If there’s no where to race a class of car, like F1 for example, the cars sit on the shelf. F1 can race on any track where 1/10 road cars are raced, but if people don’t show up with their F1 cars, the organizers stop listening F1 races. I got F1 started again at my club by bringing mine and asking other people to bring theirs. First there were three of us then five, afterwards a regular 6-8 cars. Mini-z is even harder to get going because it requires a specific track which is very expensive and is only useful for mini-z cars. If a lot of people don’t show regularly and pay to race, the organizers lose big time! It also attracts a lot of fanatical people with inflexible opinions about what the rules should be. I’ve experienced this firsthand when I tried to work with a group of people to standardize the class rules. I couldn’t get a consensus on anything to the point that my wife made me pull out because it was eating all my time and energy not to mention driving me crazy. This may lead to the high price. They don’t sell in large numbers so to make a profit and still keep the product available the price has to be a bit on the high side.
The cars are designed to run on tripple-A batteries. If you can afford it and are racing, the high output Energizer batteries have the highest voltage. The rechargeable AAAs are really good too.
You are so wrong! The ready set is garbage by comparison. It has no adjustments via software and the lag time is horrible. There is a reason for the price difference. Don’t believe it. Try racing your ready set against one of these and be embarrassed!
Brilliant and informative. Appreciate you taking time to explain things well.
Thank you!
I just ordered one just like that and this video is very informative and I will follow these videos. Have a great day.
Can you use the kt-531p remote would this?
Awesome video
Thanks! Have a happy new year!
Would swapping some parts of a box stock MR03 to the EVO chassis work?
@@combatseawolf Some suspension parts are interchangeable but not things like the electronics. If you buy a “Readyset” you are stuck with the radio that comes with it. That’s fine if you’re racing against a bunch of the same type. It’s a great way to get into racing mini-z. But if you want to race open/modified you want an evo, or one of the other brand cars that are “legal” for racing.
I’m out right now but I’ll try to give you some names/sites later today.
Do the front wheels spin when turned off I haven’t got the rims yet only the bearings spin
Very good video! Many questions answered.
Thanks Steve! More minni-z videos coming over the fall and into the winter.
are you able to run the evo chassis in the box stock class?
Unknown… it depends on the rules of the club you race at. Some clubs limit stock to the readyset cars. Some allow the addition of bearings. I’ve never seen any place check cars prior to a race. I’d imagine if the race was part of a series where prizes or at least trophies were awarded they would check the cars.
If you’re trying to make a decision to purchase, I’d contact the club where I’ll be doing the majority of my racing and ask what’s legal.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott true, but from what I've seen EVO is not usually considered box stock, it would usually run in the stock, or if you've changed it out to a more powerful motor then super stock or mod.
ok you need a video of you assembling the rest of this kit tires and body.
Bodys… between a perfect colored body and the white not colored body are for usually 10-20€. Just buy two perfect colored, one for display, one for racing^^
I paid 150 for my Carisma GT24 and on 2s it screams. Responsive steering. Oil shocks added make this thing track worthy!
Imma try to save yall a few hundred on whats gotten me my best setup for my LM EVO. Get the evo, a fs Noble NB4, the cheaper programming stick for the EVO cars, and a PN Chassis so you've got the rear oil shock there already, get the front oil shock kit and kyosho oils kit, do the front flip, get the rear side shocks, gimbal, and motor mount that goes with the gimbal from PN racing. A spring kit for each shock you have (oil front and rear and non oil side shocks), get the full set of toe in steering bars, and get tires (i prefer radials) to taste. You'll be basically set. This thing runs like a DREAM.
Oh, also somewhere in there upgrade to either PN, OR if possible ceramic bearings. Dont get fast eddy, they suck worse than stock.
At the track where I'm going to be doing the majority of my racing, the LM chassis length is only allowed in the LeMans class. It's a very open class and a lot of people are running pan car chassis'. I love the CanAm/LeMans bodies like the Sauber-Mercedes, the Mazda 787B and the Toyota GT-One. There are lexan windshield/window replacements available for the Mercedes and the Mazda to lighten the body and lower the CG.
BTW, thanks for the advice! Which PN chassis do have? Is it the PNR2.5W? That looks like a great upgrade! Kenon has them with no electronics and with the EVO or the DSM2 board installed. That looks like a great starting point for a build. There are so many front suspension configurations available... it's hard to choose. But, I usually believe that it's good to stay with one manufacturers stuff, so if I got a PN chassis, I'd probably go with one of their front end and rear pod setups.
The pan cars from Atomic and GL Racing are also very good cars. I just got a GLR-GT and will be doing a full build series on it soon. Here's a link: www.microrcsyndicate.com/product/glr-gt-1-28-rwd-chassis-w-o-rx/546?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=18
BTW, this vendor MicroRC Syndicate are great! They are super fast on order processing and delivery, at least within the US. They don't sponsor me or anything like that... I just try to give props to good vendors. Kenon is also top notch.
Keep the comments coming and please share my channel with your RC friends.
Thanks for watching!
CJ
Is this Rear wheel drive? 🛞
Is it possible to install the FlySky Nobel NB4 receiver for Mini-Z you show in this video into a box stock readyset type of MR-03 MM?
Unfortunately the readyset mini-z cars are locked to the basic receiver/transmitter. I believe there is a way to use a different transmitter but it is a Kyosho transmitter and it’s very pricy. The receiver is part of the controller board and can’t be replaced or upgraded. It’s one of the reasons the readyset cars are so inexpensive.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok thanks, I appreciate your answering this. I know it may be obvious to folks who have been around this stuff for a long time, but I'm just getting going and despite a lot of searching for an answer to that question I hadn't found one until you responded!
@@cosmicstuff44 Hey, don’t feel like it was a stupid question. When I got started in mini-z, I had a lot of questions and had a hard time getting answers. I had the same question too. It didn’t make sense that there wasn’t a way to upgrade the readyset especially since the stock transmitter has so much lag. To get a competitive car, you have to make a big investment… for example, a good transmitter for mini-z is much more expensive than a descent 3ch trans. It’s actually less expensive to start racing 1/10 touring cars if you buy budget equipment that can still be competitive. There’s no middle of the road for mini-z… but it’s a fun class to race.
Feel free to ask any questions you have and I’ll answer if I can.
Regards,
CJ
@@cosmicstuff44 I have bound my Flysky Noble 4+ to the boxstock cars, get the MINI Z dongle for the Flysky radio and bind as normal.
@@paulzarychta3201 I thought that only worked with the EVO Mini-z box stocks (versus the RTR's)???
If I buy this, could you recommend all the things I will need to complete this set that aren't too expensive
Wheels, tires, body, transmitter/receiver --- Wheels $10-15USD. Tires $10-15USD. (Can find wheel/tire combos for $15-25USD) Body $50-60USD. Transmitter $200-300 (the NB4 w a EVO reciever), receiver separate $50USD. Light kit (optional) $10-15USD, gyro (optional) $10-15USD.
Hope this helps. Sourcing the parts from cheaper places could reduce the cost.
Thanks from swiss 🙏👏👏👏very good review
with a Losi shirt on. That ain't right, man.
Hey, gotta mix it up... I hope you're enjoying the videos!
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Oddly enough, i'm on the fence between a Mini Z and a Mini T 2.0. Not the same at all but...
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Oh, or repairing my two Mini 8ight. Loved those.
HI,
My name is Vince
I have a question:
I would like to order an inexpensive TX and RX for my future Kyosho
Mini-x MR04 EVO 2! Can I use the Kyosho KT531P ? Do you ( or somebody) have a tip 🙏for an affordable TX and RX?
e.g
Vince
Unfortunately there are no inexpensive options. The EVO requires a receiver that mounts under the forward panel. It is an open circuit board with an antenna wire. The protocol depends on the transmitter/receiver you choose. The receivers are in the +$60 range and the transmitters are much more than the cheep 2 channel transmitters.
This one at $244.99 is a good deal but it’s on back order on Amain Hobbies: Kyosho Flysky Noble NB4 4-Channel 2.4GHz Mini-Z EVO Radio System w/2 Receivers
This is the transmitter I use.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thanks a lot !!! And a TX Kyosho KT531P with RX
Kyosho 82041 MINI-Z EVO Receiver Unit KT531P 432PT fit on a MR04 EVO? Is it compatible?
@@vincebrizio953 I couldn’t say… I’m not familiar with that one and I wouldn’t want to give you bad advice.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok ! Thanks a lot !
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott
Hi ! I bought the Noble NB4! I have 2 questions about the MR04
1) I have many types of LIPO batteries from the aéreo model fly ! Could I use the 2s lipo which are 7.4 volts?
2) could I also use the normal
AAA Ni-MH Rechargeable?
Will it work as a drift car?
Can't say for sure... most people who are drifting Mini-Zs are using the 4wd chassis. But it is a regular car with drift tires, and not a dedicated drift car.
If you want a real drift car that is in the Mini-Z size/class (1/27-1/28) you should have a look at the GL Racing GL-Drift-2022. It's a real 2wd drift chassis with extreme angle steering. This is a kit and comes with a servo and an E$SC, you'll need to get a motor, gyro, batteries, wheels and tires, etc. So, it's not a cheap build, but it's a real 1/28th drift car! Here's a link:
gl-racing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=564
This is a vendor from whom I buy a lot of my GL Racing products. This is the link to the GL-Drift-2022 page with all the upgrades/extras they carry.
www.microrcsyndicate.com/shop/GLD/13
They ship within the US in a week or less... if they have the item(s) in stock.
Great video and good tips. If you are interested in making a video with unlimited upgraded parts and show casing it let me know.
Why do you keep saying chass-is?
driving me crazy to.... smh
Be careful using flush cutters to cut twist ties. They have a steel wire in the middle of them and you can put nicks in your flush cutter blades.
Thanks for the tip! I bought 8 of those cutters for under $15 on Amazon, so not a big deal it they wear out over time.
BTW, looks like you've got some good content on quads. I'll be checking out your channel!
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thanks :-) I quit making videos about a year and a half ago but there's still some good stuff on there
Personally, I think telling newcomers to start with a $200 chassis, then spend another 400-600 on Tx, Rx, ESC, Body, Wheels, Tires, Misc, etc is HORRIBLE, in fact cruel, advice.
Of course a ReadySet is not meant for racing out of the box, but it is a convenient and cost-effective way to start - and if they find that Mini-Z racing isn't for them, not a big deal.
What you are suggesting is akin to telling a new driver to not bother with getting a Civic, just wait until you can afford a Corvette.
I agree.. a NEW NEW person should just buy a ready set.. 250 bucks after batteries, charger and tires. (and maybe a transponder if actually racing).
and EVO is NOT for a new person. Now.. if they are very experienced in RC in general... and already have a good TX.. sure.. get an evo because you know what you are getting into.
No offense!John Faustus.Am say it like this,if U r not willing to spend money on this HOBBY U should not get into it, because it do get expensive.
@@tsl553 That wasn't the point was it - please watch video and reread my comment.
Telling people to shell out massive amounts of cash at the ONSET is idiotic and unethical. Almost any hobby can be entered into for a small amount of money - and if its not for you, the loss is minimal.
@@johnfaustus1 unethical? Dude give me a break. Grab yourself some warm milk 🍼 and chill the heck out bro
@@TriAdX i agree.. i myself club race 1/10 scale off road.. i have the knowledge and the flysky noble so going that route is what i did.. new to rc folks are getting in way deep to be frustrated by not being able to control that brushless motor nor knowing how to use the radio controls/settings. those servos in those things are way fast a lot faster than the rtr versions, a new driver will find it frustrating trying to deal with that twitchy steering not knowing how to tone it down.
Use the thick side of the bind tool to pop out the batteries.
Huh...I didnt realize the evo came with an oil rear shock. My non evo car eventually became an evo and more... but its got like 300 in parts in it that I bought over the course of a year...lol.
Hell...its oil shocks all around except the rear side shocks, which i couldn't get oil to fit, but the main rear shock does have oil damping. If you do the flip suspension mod on oil front shocks its AMAZING.
You can live without the dampened side shocks by installing a disk damper. They take a bit of experimenting with different greases and getting the right spring tension, but are an excellent solution... a lot less small parts to fiddle with too.
What is the top speed of it?
Truly, I have no idea... these cars are so small, it isn't really relevant. They go fast enough to fly off the track or traction roll over and over.
Gearing, motor kv, and how much track length you have are big determiners of top speed.
Lap times are far more important than a specific top speed.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Thanks mate
@@chuongnguyen3230 Anytime... sorry I couldn't give you a more definitive answer.
@@MyRCChannel-CJScott no problem thanks for reply:)
Crazy how much a mini z set costs and it's that shitty! Miss xmods. They were priced reasonably and we had atomic mods and a bunch of aftermarket to support us. Sad no one picked up the name and kept building them. My mini z is fun but I have noticed some issues with it and it makes me sad at times, cause I expected better.
@@sloth1992 Mini-z is a niche area of the overall RC hobby. Things fall in and out of interest for no particular reason. The biggest being if the is racing at local clubs and shops. If there’s no where to race a class of car, like F1 for example, the cars sit on the shelf. F1 can race on any track where 1/10 road cars are raced, but if people don’t show up with their F1 cars, the organizers stop listening F1 races. I got F1 started again at my club by bringing mine and asking other people to bring theirs. First there were three of us then five, afterwards a regular 6-8 cars.
Mini-z is even harder to get going because it requires a specific track which is very expensive and is only useful for mini-z cars. If a lot of people don’t show regularly and pay to race, the organizers lose big time! It also attracts a lot of fanatical people with inflexible opinions about what the rules should be. I’ve experienced this firsthand when I tried to work with a group of people to standardize the class rules. I couldn’t get a consensus on anything to the point that my wife made me pull out because it was eating all my time and energy not to mention driving me crazy.
This may lead to the high price. They don’t sell in large numbers so to make a profit and still keep the product available the price has to be a bit on the high side.
I appreciate your insight man, but they're friggin' rc cars. That's all. Meant to be fun.
why no lipo?
The cars are designed to run on tripple-A batteries. If you can afford it and are racing, the high output Energizer batteries have the highest voltage. The rechargeable AAAs are really good too.
waste of money. ready set is exacty the same.
You are so wrong! The ready set is garbage by comparison. It has no adjustments via software and the lag time is horrible. There is a reason for the price difference. Don’t believe it. Try racing your ready set against one of these and be embarrassed!
wrong. they are exactly the same thing.@@MyRCChannel-CJScott
@@NOTREALLYHANKAARONonly wAy to end this is a race