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@@sloth1992 Mini-z is a niche area of the overall RC hobby. Things fall in and out of interest for no particular reason. The biggest being if the is racing at local clubs and shops. If there’s no where to race a class of car, like F1 for example, the cars sit on the shelf. F1 can race on any track where 1/10 road cars are raced, but if people don’t show up with their F1 cars, the organizers stop listening F1 races. I got F1 started again at my club by bringing mine and asking other people to bring theirs. First there were three of us then five, afterwards a regular 6-8 cars. Mini-z is even harder to get going because it requires a specific track which is very expensive and is only useful for mini-z cars. If a lot of people don’t show regularly and pay to race, the organizers lose big time! It also attracts a lot of fanatical people with inflexible opinions about what the rules should be. I’ve experienced this firsthand when I tried to work with a group of people to standardize the class rules. I couldn’t get a consensus on anything to the point that my wife made me pull out because it was eating all my time and energy not to mention driving me crazy. This may lead to the high price. They don’t sell in large numbers so to make a profit and still keep the product available the price has to be a bit on the high side.

@@donmaine9613 Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@@dj7dust76 I use thin CA glue. Try to not let it run down the sides, just around the edges.

@@svampae there may be, I’m still getting set up in my new house. Hopefully I will be making videos again sometime this summer.

Yes, but some people want a single color paint job that is as low weight as possible and stands out among all the other cars on the track. If you’re racing this can be a very important factor. During races, there’s a lot of car to car contact as well as hitting the rails and going off the course all together. The bodies take a lot of damage and people get angry when their fancy factory body gets torn up. You’re free to do as you wish. I make recommendations, no judgement.

No, but if you watch the full series of videos, you’ll see all the parts I buy and try. The best thing you can get is the super fast servo I use. Racing F1’s is all about handling so having the fastest response time is essential. All the stock suspension “parts trees” are available from Tamiya USA at very reasonable prices ($12-$16). This should be one of your first purchases and you should get a couple of each so you have multiple spares on hand. They break and they bend. If they get bent, toss them immediately and replace them. Next learn to adjust the camber by flipping/rotating the top brace between the upper A-arms. Get a couple sets of tires in different compounds and switch them around to tune the car (ex: soft front, medium rear). Downforce is also surprisingly effective in F1 so get an adjustable rear wing and a couple front wings. You’ll need to spend a lot of time testing one thing at a time to learn what effect they have but that’s racing. F1s have more tuning options and possibilities than most other RC cars. I recommend the carbon rear axle. It’s delicate but the car will accelerate and decelerate much more quickly. Also, I’d run a gear diff or a locked axle. The stock ball diff is inconsistent and it rarely feels the same two races in a row. At least a gear diff will feel consistent and you can use different viscosity fluid to adjust the feel. A locked axle will always feel the same and it will never get weird on you and change feeling during a race. I went through several different ball diffs and a gear diff before I went with a solid axle. One last piece of advice. If you’re serious about racing F1, don’t spend a bunch of money modifying this car. Save your money add buy an Xray X1’24 it’s their new F1 kit. I believe they make the best F1 kits and many of the best RC cars on and off road. But, these are just my opinions and advice. If you’re not serious about racing, you’ve got a good car. I’ve won a few club races and had lots of fun with mine. Best of luck to you whatever way you’re going! Thanks for watching. Sorry I haven’t been posting new content, I’m still getting moved into a new home and setting my parent’s affairs after their deaths. I hope to be rolling again soon! Regards, CJ

I bought it like 25 years ago. There are much better stands available... lighter ones to be sure. Truthfully, I don't remember where I bought it, it's been so long. It still works fine though! It's one of those tools that you'll buy once in a lifetime and if you take good care of it and don't sell it, you'll have it for life.

Unfortunately the readyset mini-z cars are locked to the basic receiver/transmitter. I believe there is a way to use a different transmitter but it is a Kyosho transmitter and it’s very pricy. The receiver is part of the controller board and can’t be replaced or upgraded. It’s one of the reasons the readyset cars are so inexpensive.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok thanks, I appreciate your answering this. I know it may be obvious to folks who have been around this stuff for a long time, but I'm just getting going and despite a lot of searching for an answer to that question I hadn't found one until you responded!

@@cosmicstuff44 Hey, don’t feel like it was a stupid question. When I got started in mini-z, I had a lot of questions and had a hard time getting answers. I had the same question too. It didn’t make sense that there wasn’t a way to upgrade the readyset especially since the stock transmitter has so much lag. To get a competitive car, you have to make a big investment… for example, a good transmitter for mini-z is much more expensive than a descent 3ch trans. It’s actually less expensive to start racing 1/10 touring cars if you buy budget equipment that can still be competitive. There’s no middle of the road for mini-z… but it’s a fun class to race. Feel free to ask any questions you have and I’ll answer if I can. Regards, CJ

Thank you very much! I hope it helps you. I really like the Fresh. I’ve got a second one that I will be building as a powered glider. I bought the motor/esc combo from Hyperflight. It’s light and compact. I’ve been in the process of moving into a new home and I lost my parents over the last three years… my mom in Sept 23 so I haven’t been able to do any new videos for a while. Thank you for subscribing! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. CJ

Hi, it depends on the spring rate, track surface temperature, etc. If you watch the series I'm sure I mention what I used in the initial setup... I don't remember off hand. Probably something between 27.5-32.5 Best of luck and thanks for watching! CJ Definitely watch all the videos. I put in a lot of tip and recommendations. It'll be worth your time.

It was an Amazon or eBay find. No make or model. It was 99.9% likely made in China and won’t be available exactly the same again. Sorry… I didn’t make the world! I just live in it. The link was good while they had stock. Yet another thing I have zero control over! If you search like I did, you can probably find a similar fork. Unfortunately the fat tire craze seems to be loosing steam and less and less manufacturers are making equipment for it. It’s too bad... I like them.

Yes, it would be great if some company would design a universal balancer for wheels and props that would tell us exactly how much to add and where to add it... it would probably cost upwards of $1,000 IF it could be done.

Unfortunately I haven’t had the chance to run any of my buggies or trucks, or fly any planes since last year. We’ve been moving into a new house. Dealing with my mother’s passing. Taking care of my parents estate, etc…. I have a lot of kits on deck and will be making videos again as soon as we get settled. Thanks for watching! CJ

Hi Jerry, I have a couple of Spektrum transmitters... I assume they are all similar, at least they seam to be. Go into the setup and start with a new plane, select a glider, select the wing type, if you're building this plane, all you need is a servo for the spoiler and that you can program later... you don't have ailerons or flaps but you can select a single servo for flaps and use it for the spoiler if you wish, now it's time to select the type of tail, you are offered the choice of an x-tail or a v-tail... select the v-tail. How familiar are you with how a v-tail functions? To make the glider go up, both servos pull the tail surfaces inward pushing the tail downward, and the reverse to make the glider go up. To make the glider turn, both surfaces move in opposite directions causing a yawing action. Unlike an x-tail or standard tail, both surfaces always move together. With an x-tail, only one surface needs to move to make the plane go up or down, or to yaw left or right. Personally, I prefer x-tails although I fly a lot of v-tail gliders. I hope this helps. If there are some things you don't understand or you need more help with, just ask, and I'll do what I can. Thanks for watching, CJ

Some of them come with the buckets for lights but you still have to add LEDs. If you’re planning to race, skip the lights. It adds a lot of weight you don’t need. If you just want it, go for it!

@MyRCChannel-CJScott wasn't planning to race. Just got my first and ordered an r34 white body to go on it. Was wanting to add leds after paint. But couldn't seem to find light buckets for it.

@@sirracer2005 check a place called rcmart.com they carry a large selection of mini-z products

@MyRCChannel-CJScott that's where I bought the 2 white bodies from. But they have solid headlights. And unfortunately I couldn't find any light buckets. May just end up drilling a hole and adding a small piece of tubing to hold the led in there.

@@sirracer2005 there’s another big mini-z shop… I’ve been trying to remember the name. When I figure it out, I’ll let you know. Sorry for not being more helpful.

I can’t wait to let it loose but I’m having a hard time finding places where I can turn it loose in the Washington DC area. I’ve got a set of paddle tires and plan to take it to the beach for the day.

…wait, I’m thinking about a different car. I’ve got the paddle tires for the Losi DBXL-E 2.0 Buggy which will also be going on that trip!

Leave it stock, it's just awesome as it is, I'm a bit of an Arrma fan boy and have the Bigrock 6s too, I love both but the Mojave is definitely at the top of the list by far! Enjoy👍👍👍

Indeed, I’m having trouble finding places in the Washington DC area where I can let this loose.

You’re very welcome! It is a sweet little truck. I was hoping to get out and bash with a couple guys on Saturday but they flaked. So this morning I went to my first Cars & Coffee meetup. I had a great time met lots of cool people and saw lots of amazing cars. I’m working on finding a lot or site or field where I can bash these trucks.

Thanks buddy! Much appreciated! For sure, I didn’t get this with TH-cam ad money 😂 In truth, I keep pouring money into this channel because of all the great comments I get from all over the world! I’ve even made some good friends in far away places. When someone has a problem and I’m able to help, the gratitude in their reply is worth more than money! Thanks for watching, CJ

I remember having a lot of trouble getting mine updated and bound. It almost takes three hands, some of the buttons on the receiver are so small. Trial and error is the only way. Try not to get frustrated and follow the instructions. You’ll eventually figure it out! Is there a hobby shop near you where you can get some hands on advice? Thanks for watching, I’m sorry I can’t be more helpful, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thank you for your answer!! 👍

Thank you! It’s a joy to drive. Definitely one of the best handling cars ever made. I can’t wait to get that 4.0L flat6 through the break-in period so I can really see what it can do. Thanks for watching! CJ

Hope you are settling nicely into your new home. RCs can wait.

True! I wish we lived closer so I could take you for a ride and let you have a turn at the wheel! If you and your wife ever pass through the DC area, schedule in a few hours or a few days layover. We’ll all go out for dinner and then you and I can roll around in the GT4 and the M2CS!

Unfortunately there are no inexpensive options. The EVO requires a receiver that mounts under the forward panel. It is an open circuit board with an antenna wire. The protocol depends on the transmitter/receiver you choose. The receivers are in the +$60 range and the transmitters are much more than the cheep 2 channel transmitters. This one at $244.99 is a good deal but it’s on back order on Amain Hobbies: Kyosho Flysky Noble NB4 4-Channel 2.4GHz Mini-Z EVO Radio System w/2 Receivers This is the transmitter I use.

Unfortunately there are no inexpensive options. The EVO requires a receiver that mounts under the forward panel. It is an open circuit board with an antenna wire. The protocol depends on the transmitter/receiver you choose. The receivers are in the +$60 range and the transmitters are much more than the cheep 2 channel transmitters. This one at $244.99 is a good deal but it’s on back order on Amain Hobbies: Kyosho Flysky Noble NB4 4-Channel 2.4GHz Mini-Z EVO Radio System w/2 Receivers This is the transmitter I use.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott thanks a lot !!! And a TX Kyosho KT531P with RX Kyosho 82041 MINI-Z EVO Receiver Unit KT531P 432PT fit on a MR04 EVO? Is it compatible?

@@vincebrizio953 I couldn’t say… I’m not familiar with that one and I wouldn’t want to give you bad advice.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott ok ! Thanks a lot !

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hi ! I bought the Noble NB4! I have 2 questions about the MR04 1) I have many types of LIPO batteries from the aéreo model fly ! Could I use the 2s lipo which are 7.4 volts? 2) could I also use the normal AAA Ni-MH Rechargeable?

You shouldn’t alter the holes. The v-tail will never be stable again. I know they are tough to fit at first but they’ll loosen enough as you use it. Thanks for watching, CJ

Hhhmmm, on your video you used a pin vise and small drill bit to enlarge the holes?

Sorry, it's been a long time since I built this glider... the hand drill is probably one I bought on Amazon. Fortunately, Amazon keeps the order history back to the dawn of time... here are the links to the two tools. I can't tell you the exact size I used unless I specified in the video. The sizes are quite granular so I'd start small and go up until you get the desired result. Drill www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXH9N1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Vice www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753FKVMX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want to gift the radian to my father who once was flying sailplane as a hobby. And would love to setup a vario meter audio beep for altitude changes like in the real planes.

@@kaeptn I suppose it’s possible. It depends on whether the servos for the rudder and stab are integrated into the receiver. A lot of the UMX planes are setup like that to save weight. You add a few extra ounces to that glider and it just won’t climb. For what you’ve got in mind, you’d be better off getting him a 2M Radian and then you can add the extra weight of the bigger receiver and whatever else you might want to add. If his vision is failing like a lot of the elderly, get him a Night Radian. All the LEDs will help him track and orient the glider. Just my thoughts… Best of luck! CJ

With the newer “radial” tires, I don’t think it’s as necessary as it used to be… I guess it depends on how competitive you are and what you’re used to. If you’ve got a track at home and wear in the radials a bit before racing on them to scuff them in, that might do the job too. A few practice laps might also get you there. The thing with mini-z is when you’re racing at the high levels the smallest things can make a big difference. Best of luck and thanks for watching! CJ

Yes, no issues since I removed it.

Hi, I’ll try to get that to you in the next 24 hours, Ok?

Thank you

Ok, the written instructions are on the "kit" page on the armsoar.com site. Here are the links to the main kit instructions, and the instructions for drilling the v-tail mounting holes: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0759/8009/files/Medina_OZeRES_2_Building_Instructions_8Aug22.pdf?v=1661532336 cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0759/8009/files/Medina_-_V_tail_boom_drilling_jig_1.pdf?v=1658504497 I hope this helps! CJ

Found it! Thanks

@@jerrygiles1661 any time!

Thanks man! Sorry I haven't put up any new content in a while, but I've been moving into a new home... a home big enough to have a full size (50mm) RCP mini-z race track in the basement!!! Also, I'll have a lot more space to build and film so it's going to be a good year... as soon as I complete the move, unpack, and setup! I hope you're having a great 2024! Thanks for watching! CJ

My local track stoped racing Stadium Trucks last year. I’m hoping they bring it back.

I haven’t sold any to date. I may eventually… I’ve been trying to get finished moving into a new house and get the old one ready to sell. I’m disabled and the constant back pain has been extra bad thanks to the cold weather. I’ve got a lot of stuff to video as soon as I get setup in the new place. I’m going to take the DBXLe to the beach as soon as I can. Thanks for watching and reaching out, CJ

Yeah, I don’t know how some of the pro drivers run 4T motors in 2wd buggies… they must burn out a set of slipper pads each event. And a lot of tuning the ESC too.

There are foam specific glues, but I’ve had problems with them. Epoxy will never attack foam and will always bond. Use sparingly because large quantities of epoxy generate heat as they set up. Thin layers of quick setting epoxy are best; 5min & 15 min are best. Thanks for watching, CJ

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott I used depron glue but it didn't work..

@@gianluca387 Yep, that was the one that gave me trouble too. Go with 5-15 minute epoxy. I find that if you mix it longer you get a stiffer setup and if you mix it less, you get a more flexible joint. I also mix epoxy with micro-balloons… glass micro balloons as a filler. It makes a lighter combination that fills gaps well.

@@MyRCChannel-CJScott Hi, good news, the depron glue worked in the end, it just took a whole night to set!! I flew there even in fairly strong winds and had no problems.

You are so wrong! The ready set is garbage by comparison. It has no adjustments via software and the lag time is horrible. There is a reason for the price difference. Don’t believe it. Try racing your ready set against one of these and be embarrassed!

wrong. they are exactly the same thing.@@MyRCChannel-CJScott

​@@user-ix9mr1qr3tonly wAy to end this is a race