Robbie, I like it when you can say, "Life is good". Everything lines up perfectly, there are no gouges in that new jig from lifting a still-spinning router, and the tools interface smoothly with the human brain that's using them. You make it look so easy, and you are such an effortlessly fluent teacher that even the dreaded neck joint becomes a smooth move.
Thanks for the detailed account of using this great jig. I have tried to get it from LMI however they don’t seem to carry it anymore. Do you know where I can get plans to build one. Thanks for your help.
Hey Robert, great video. I noticed quite a difference of this jig with the original. I am still using the original one but see some benefit of this one. For now i have been doing straight mortise and tenon until i figure out how yo compensate the dovetail as the top of my instruments are narrower and not flat, the upper bout narrows down and have not found a dovetail bit that can accomodate the cut for neck to perfectly fit the body.
I like the new jig. but will it work on an archtop, with a 1" bridge height ? Also when setting an arched body in the jig do you need blocks to support it in place ,to deal with the arch?
Hey there Rob, I've got your dovetail jig, my body and neck blank are well made and ready to go, (first build) I've purchased a nice plunge router; but there's an issue. Your old Porter Cable seems to be a smooth operator, but mine, as you gradually press down on it resists and then jumps down an inch or so. I thought that maybe by having it turned on, the vibration would ameliorate that, but no. Do you use furniture wax or something to lube the shafts? Mark Morrison
@@OBrienGuitars a tiny bit of paste wax improved things, the operation went well today! I found that with the dovetail bit I bought from you, you don't use the guide bushing. With it, the bit cuts only the bottom half of the channel cut with the straight bit.
Hi Robert, bought your plans and well into making this with (am I allowed to say?) a nod to Eric Schaefer's tweaks especially dust extraction. I am wondering about the four triangular braces on either side. Would it not be better - and also give better rigidity against the forces of a plunging router - if there were simply solid sides? I can't offhand see any reason not to do this. And construction would be simpler!
I'm sure it is obvious to everyone else but if you were doing a dovetail, you would have to shorten up that mortice and tenon so it was not so close to the back binding right? Flare on the dovetail cuts deeper? Thanks as always for the great video.
Great video, thanks! Question for you - I have a gap underneath my fingerboard where it goes over the soundboard from the neck angle. I haven't glue it on yet, and I'm wondering how you deal with this?
Due to the neck angle on the guitar you will have a slight gap from the neck joint to the soundhole. On my guitars it is about 1/64th. If this is not acceptable for you then you might take a look at my buddy Jeff Jewitt's Perfect Neck set online course. He has no gap at all when setting the neck. obrienguitars.com/courses/perfect-neck-set
@@brisimmons105 there blues creek guitar videos to cover the fitting of the dovetail after its cut... important lesson there, im new as well,, good luck, they on youtube...
Do the adjustments or initial set you made change when you actually bolt on the neck? With such fine tuning it seems everything will change from the tension and force of tightening the bolts to secure the neck!
Hey Robbie, it appeared when you were setting up the jig with the aluminum rod on the face of the body that the initial lineup is flush with the body. Which would lead me to believe that when you created a larger gap to accommodate of the saddle location it would then leave a gap under the fingerboard once the neck was mounted causing drop off. Do you create an angle between the edge where the neck mounts and the sound hole on the body itself or do you leave the drop off
There is about a 64th to a 32nd falloff on the fretboard extension as it transitions from the neck joint to the soundhole. This is easily leveled from the top side of the fretboard after it is attached. This is why I install frets only after the fretboard is attached to the neck and the neck attached to the body.
By using the guide-bushing you take this differnce in diameter into account when making the mortise. By using the guide-bushing on the tenon, would not the tenon be to big than for the mortise. The mortis will be somewat smaller than the template and the tenon would be somewhat bigger than the template. Then, howcome they fit?
@@OBrienGuitars Right, thanks for the reply. So, the measurements of the bushing and the bit are fixed. I will try and make this jig. But maybe I should make the templates as well, as to fit my router and bushing. Thanks again for replying.
@@petervanrooij2181 You are correct. The guide bushing and bit sizes are the same for both the mortise and tenon. The template size changes so that everything fits after cutting. Good luck. Plans are available via my site. obrienguitars.com/plans
Pode comprar da LMI - www.lmii.com/obrien-neck-joint-jig-templates/2757-o-brien-neck-joint-routing-jig-choose-dovetail-or-straight-mortise-and-tenon.html
Hi Robert, i write from Italy, i tried to buy this jig in your website.....but is very difficult, probabily i wrong something, could you write me here a link to buy it, i would to pay with paypal.
I do not sell the jig.I only sell plans to make the jig. obrienguitars.com/plans LMI sells the pre-made jig. www.lmii.com/products/tools-services/rout/shape/drill/obrien-neck-joint-jig-templates
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Robbie, I like it when you can say, "Life is good". Everything lines up perfectly, there are no gouges in that new jig from lifting a still-spinning router, and the tools interface smoothly with the human brain that's using them.
You make it look so easy, and you are such an effortlessly fluent teacher that even the dreaded neck joint becomes a smooth move.
Thank you for the compliment. Happy Building!
lol, you got me with 'until you hear a crack'!!!!
Glad you saw the humor in that. Happy Building.
Thanks for the detailed account of using this great jig. I have tried to get it from LMI however they don’t seem to carry it anymore. Do you know where I can get plans to build one. Thanks for your help.
You can get plans for this jig on the Lutherie Academy website. lutherieacademy.com/plans
Really great video Robert! More like that please! Cheers, Chris.
Hey Robert, great video. I noticed quite a difference of this jig with the original. I am still using the original one but see some benefit of this one. For now i have been doing straight mortise and tenon until i figure out how yo compensate the dovetail as the top of my instruments are narrower and not flat, the upper bout narrows down and have not found a dovetail bit that can accomodate the cut for neck to perfectly fit the body.
I like the new jig. but will it work on an archtop, with a 1" bridge height ? Also when setting an arched body in the jig do you need blocks to support it in place ,to deal with the arch?
Would definitely swap out the "composite board" template for one of Lexan, my friend. Gb g
Hey there Rob, I've got your dovetail jig, my body and neck blank are well made and ready to go, (first build) I've purchased a nice plunge router; but there's an issue. Your old Porter Cable seems to be a smooth operator, but mine, as you gradually press down on it resists and then jumps down an inch or so. I thought that maybe by having it turned on, the vibration would ameliorate that, but no. Do you use furniture wax or something to lube the shafts? Mark Morrison
You can try wax but perhaps a better router?
@@OBrienGuitars a tiny bit of paste wax improved things, the operation went well today! I found that with the dovetail bit I bought from you, you don't use the guide bushing. With it, the bit cuts only the bottom half of the channel cut with the straight bit.
It was awesome, O'Brien! Thanks a lot!
Are you building your top with a radius or flat? If so: what radius are you using both for the top and back? Thanks! Really enjoy your videos!
I use 30ft for the top and 15ft for the back.
Hi Robert, bought your plans and well into making this with (am I allowed to say?) a nod to Eric Schaefer's tweaks especially dust extraction. I am wondering about the four triangular braces on either side. Would it not be better - and also give better rigidity against the forces of a plunging router - if there were simply solid sides? I can't offhand see any reason not to do this. And construction would be simpler!
Eric has made some nice improvements to the jig indeed. Anything you or others want to do to improve upon the design is fine with me.
Great demonstration. Thanks!
Great videos always, brother.
Cool jig, thanks for sharing.
I'm sure it is obvious to everyone else but if you were doing a dovetail, you would have to shorten up that mortice and tenon so it was not so close to the back binding right? Flare on the dovetail cuts deeper? Thanks as always for the great video.
+olgoat52 You are correct and also the dovetail is not 7/8 inch deep.
Great video, thanks! Question for you - I have a gap underneath my fingerboard where it goes over the soundboard from the neck angle. I haven't glue it on yet, and I'm wondering how you deal with this?
Due to the neck angle on the guitar you will have a slight gap from the neck joint to the soundhole. On my guitars it is about 1/64th. If this is not acceptable for you then you might take a look at my buddy Jeff Jewitt's Perfect Neck set online course. He has no gap at all when setting the neck. obrienguitars.com/courses/perfect-neck-set
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the reply! This is my first build and my angles weren't as exact as I'd like so my gap is a bit larger.
@@brisimmons105 there blues creek guitar videos to cover the fitting of the dovetail after its cut... important lesson there, im new as well,, good luck, they on youtube...
@@brisimmons105 watch?v=FNcbA1P95KE&t=1194s (this is one of that series, i dont think its the first one) This is a must know, i know this much. haha
Do the adjustments or initial set you made change when you actually bolt on the neck? With such fine tuning it seems everything will change from the tension and force of tightening the bolts to secure the neck!
usually no. If the fit is good then putting bolts on doesn't change the equation.
when you get up to gluing the fretboard over the body will the fretboard bend a little as you clamp it in place because of the neck angle?
yes, the board is flexible and I then level and radius it after it is attached to the neck.
Hey Robbie, it appeared when you were setting up the jig with the aluminum rod on the face of the body that the initial lineup is flush with the body. Which would lead me to believe that when you created a larger gap to accommodate of the saddle location it would then leave a gap under the fingerboard once the neck was mounted causing drop off. Do you create an angle between the edge where the neck mounts and the sound hole on the body itself or do you leave the drop off
There is about a 64th to a 32nd falloff on the fretboard extension as it transitions from the neck joint to the soundhole. This is easily leveled from the top side of the fretboard after it is attached. This is why I install frets only after the fretboard is attached to the neck and the neck attached to the body.
Since LMI is gone, does anyone plan to market this jig or CNC plans?
I am working on it
By using the guide-bushing you take this differnce in diameter into account when making the mortise. By using the guide-bushing on the tenon, would not the tenon be to big than for the mortise. The mortis will be somewat smaller than the template and the tenon would be somewhat bigger than the template. Then, howcome they fit?
They fit because the measurements on the templates already take this into account.
@@OBrienGuitars Right, thanks for the reply. So, the measurements of the bushing and the bit are fixed. I will try and make this jig. But maybe I should make the templates as well, as to fit my router and bushing. Thanks again for replying.
@@petervanrooij2181 You are correct. The guide bushing and bit sizes are the same for both the mortise and tenon. The template size changes so that everything fits after cutting. Good luck. Plans are available via my site. obrienguitars.com/plans
Obriado por compartilhar seu conhecimento.
de nada e obrigado por assitir.
Will this jig work with ukulele bodies and necks? Maybe larger bushing with smaller bit diameter. Do you have a better suggestion?
Many folks have adapted it to work with ukes.
Obrien boa noite, gostaria de comprar esse Jig, como posso fazer pra compra-lo?
Pode comprar da LMI - www.lmii.com/obrien-neck-joint-jig-templates/2757-o-brien-neck-joint-routing-jig-choose-dovetail-or-straight-mortise-and-tenon.html
Oh sure! I bought the old version - had to make my own box - and this one is sooo much better! LOL
You can always update.
Hi Robert, i write from Italy, i tried to buy this jig in your website.....but is very difficult, probabily i wrong something, could you write me here a link to buy it, i would to pay with paypal.
I do not sell the jig.I only sell plans to make the jig. obrienguitars.com/plans
LMI sells the pre-made jig. www.lmii.com/products/tools-services/rout/shape/drill/obrien-neck-joint-jig-templates
Thank you
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍🏻👍🏻
it certainly takes the pain out of that joint
"until you hear a crack"... Dude, that's just cruel. :-P
its not simple.
Don’t forget you need a router template bushing adapter for your router like I did. Waiting for parts