*↘* RV Air Conditioner options, bit.ly/2LfmT1G it can be installed through wall or in a former front/back window location & Copy this ebay.to/2Lj9TV8 to your bookmarks, and *In the Winter* get a NEW RV AC unit really cheap. I stock my RV with Cheap High quality survival Food Kits, bit.ly/2Qs0vGO (electronic banking fails = NO FOOD) but your RV is stocked! Another great option for RV's 2pc AC unit, amzn.to/2nJ9Nwx Pioneer WYS012-17 Air Conditioner Wall Mount Mini Split System Air Conditioner & Heat Pump all parts included Home, RV or Tiny House, 12,000 BTU and 22% less power needed. It heats too. Mount the outside unit on the tongue or rear bumper, can run on a 2000 watt generator all day long!!! Whole RV will run on this one bit.ly/2vIUKay SP4000 without problems. My repair on my RV Increases air flow almost 40% to remove the heat, increase cooling & efficiency. The HOLDPEAK Anemometer for testing air flow is this model, ebay.to/2vRb4FO its impressive at a low cost. Better Ideas and easy affordable ! B -Links to highly supported RV Sportsman Gasoline 4000 Watt Portable Generator.
It's based on not only seasonal ratings, most with ratings above 15 SEER are a complete lie, or you could say a stretch, based on laboratory conditions, not real life. Pioneer ( Felicity Refrigeration Guangzhou China /Seoul SK ) has been known to use 5 natural categories in power use and efficiency. My concern is the start up amperage which was more important to the power abilities of a RV's wiring system.
I followed your video and I noticed very little difference in the inside temperature of my thirty seven foot RV. The outside temperature was over one hundred degrees in San Antonio, TX.
Јоhn Daniel , that's a great idea, ..my unit is dripping condensation inside, the drain hole and everywhere was really clean, a freind told me it could be a little low on freon, does that sound right? (It's cooling good)
I don't have this style A\C unit, but being an A\C technician I can say this guy knows what he is talking about. Whether you get 3F or 10F more temperature differential it's going to be an improvement and increase longevity of the unit as well.
Great video, and after working on automotive AC units for 20+ years, your theories make perfect sense. More airflow = lower temps = lower head pressure on system = more heat transfer & cooler air inside at the evaporator. Simple and effective fix... nice work John! Sent this link to some friends of mine that are actually out on the road right now with their rig.😉👍
A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
Thanks for posting when you can improve the airflow that much, that ease, that cheap its a win/win Love how you took the time and use the meter to show before and after. well done
Thank you , for your video , it takes a man that sees a problem and has the knowledge to fix it, having bought a new 40 foot triple slide motor home , I returned to the factory authorized repair shop with ac problems , refrigerator issues and slide out problems ,and the dealers service reps will tell you this is how your unit should preform , however however that statement is not true , showing they have no incentive to do a warranty call against the manufacture , and more times than not requires us to find a solution to problems and repair it yourselves . So much THANKS to you for sharing with your knowledge !
My older coleman has an open back, I have modified the wood framing up inside the bottom to open up the space where air must flow(cut about 1" of the corner of the inside 2x4s to increase space. I also bored large holes on both sides and installed bigger filters to allow more air into return air space. The hoghair style plenum insulation around front of airbox can be swapped out for an extruded foam board and prevent heat exchanging issues. Putting some between motor and back of plenum is another spot for improvement...just dont block air circulation into motor vents.
Nice tip...I'll bet this guy is fun to be around....I'm a junker too and love making modifications to improve performance...Now, where's my wife,s vibrator.....
John, I've watched and read so much BS, all of which never truly provided even one plausible answer until now. The moment I did your suggested hack, the temp gauge I have stuck in the fins went from 83 down to 57.2 in under 7 minutes. Brother, you my friend are worth your weight in Silver and Gold! Incredible! Thank you, Tommy
When I bought my new RV last year, I was disappointed with the performance of the A/C unit - ran all the time and barely kept up. Since then I followed this tutorial and made this modification exactly as shown. This summer I'm pleased to report that the A/C performance has improved dramatically. We camped for a week in 100 degree weather and were comfortable inside. I highly recommend this modification. Great job and thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I think dometic figured that out. My 2010 flagstaff has no back frame or screen, its wide open. I put a 1"x1" wire gaurd on it for safety.FYI: They make that stuff in stainless steel too.Good job love your vids,no nonsense.
Reduce restriction, eliminate leaks. I caulk and foam tape to seal any leaks where the sheet metal surrounds the evaporator & condenser. Just take a flashlight and shine it around to see tiny gaps, or just feel around to detect where air is getting around the radiator coils. Also clean it at least once a year for better air flow.
John Daniel. A good idea! Anyone with even a modicum of common sense would know that the better, more efficient air flow past the cooling coil, the more efficient the unit. I would also replace the vent in front of the air inflow for this very reason.
Sad to say, but theres a lot of folks completely devoid of common sense and logic. But for me, the AC now runs less, and cools faster so I win even past the devoid pessimist. Who would have thought - Runs less = using less power!
30 years in the HVAC and R business. He is correct! Less air flow equals less capacity! Also, Clean those coils! When they block up with dirt and it will hurt!
I modified both ac units on my 36 ft Tiffin Alegro Bay and it worked great for both of them. One unit is 17 years old and the smaller one is new. The other improvement I noticed is a significant reduction in ac noise. It would be interesting to measure dB before and after.
Very nice work. The older Dometic units as Mr. Hyatt points out a few comments later were a three-sided box with nothing in the back but the heat transfer fins. Mamy home condensers have very little protection so the fins can be exposed and not have any restrictions. I suspect the "Designers" at Dometic had more influence than the design engineers and so the change. Anyway, great work and a tremendous improvement to anyone with four-sided box.
I love this guy's videos he is so down to earth and his ideas are so fantastic, sometimes you think what hell why didn't I think of that? Well you didn't but he does. Thank you so much for sharing your ideas with us you make life simpler.
if you want to know if this works for your own RV, run the a/c on a really hot day and see how effective it is. Then go up on the roof and take the cover/cap/shell off(opening up the airflow) and go back inside and see if there is improvement. If there is, do the mod, if not, put the cover back on and forget about it.
Not a lot of people can objectively tell the difference... It's can be feeling colder/hotter, but to few people can accurately measure temperature, make some graphs, measure current draw, temperature difference (inside / outside / before / after), solar insolation e.t.c...
@@theunconventionaldeal3879 A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 mines not 100% effective but it works better until I replace it, without covering windows it's 82 and 105 outside so good till I get a new one.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 SO you are saying that it was 75 when it was 105 outside, and this gave you a 5 degree improvement? That's great! My unit is a heat pump, so I expect that in the winter, it would also heat better
New subscriber, great content with a lot of common sense solutions to a wide range of everyday problems. Im a fixit guy myself, so i love yer style! 👍 And you're right, I can fix it myself, it aint that hard!! ❤😊
To the people making comment. This is a technical video just to inform you of a better technique to ensure your air conditioning working at it top peak. I will never understand why some commenters feel I need to put down the video and the people making it? One person said it was drawn out as if he was getting bored. Some people get bored while watching documentaries and educational shows. But they get really excited when you put a cartoon on. While others was questioning the science and his technique which is there is absolutely nothing wrong with. The science is valid and the repair to increase airflow is a valid science what's your problem people? To those that made comments of encouragement and good ideas to add to the video thank you very much for being a decent human being. I guess some of these people really need to get out on their RV as quick as possible because it's starting to become calloused from too much City living. Just a thought. Y'all have a good day and try to be nicer. And John great video man keep up the good work. Who knows I might see you on the road someday.
Darrel, on target, also cant understand why someone must be compelled to make negative comments on many of these videos. Clearly they must have an extreme superiority complex
I agree. To the spreaders of negativity: If the video bothers you, MAKE A BETTER ONE. And keep your negative comments to.yourself. The rest of us are LEARNING and we do not want you to discourage our EXCELLENT TEACHER. We want MORE VIDEOS from him, NOT LESS.
You should also do that on the sides to increase incoming air flow as well .By doing all of them you will transfer air at a better rate and lower you amp draw even more...It even looks better !
Amazing, I own a RV salvage yard, over 80 RV's processed through here since 2006 and not one AC unit we pulled, from a 1963 Intertherm 8800 to a 2015 Dometic has ever or without any malfunction does that backwards air flow. Not even a Window air conditioner sucks in through the face and put out on the sides. That function would over heat everything in and under the case/shroud. You should send those in for a case study and buy a lottery ticket the same day!
TIM Harrison yea all the ACs I have worked on (only like 5) do pull from the sides and blow out the back typically the fan is in front blowing thru the condenser
@@JOHNDANIEL1 so you must not have had one Coleman Mach ac come through. Because all of them pull air from rear and push out sides and do so without overheating everything under the shroud.
I put a shield on top of mine. This is so the the sun is not in direct contact with the AC unit. It's basically a piece of sheet metal air gapped over the ac. The metal gets all the radiant heat from the sun. You are just cooling the hot air rather than the hot air and radiation absorbed into the body of the ac. The temp of the body panel on the ac is always well over 120 in the summer while its only 94 or so out. This all started when my ac could not cool my place down enough. Buying a new ac was out of the question since I was renting. I had some corrugated hurricane panels. I laid those over the AC unit and now my ac was able to cool the place down and actually shut off like it was supposed to. It made my bill drop a lot. My summer bills were over $300 before this. Now over or under $200. If my ac is not in the shade, I make sure its air gapped like this now.
A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
You seemed distracted for a moment by the stress of the 4 legged inspectors looking over your work. You shouldn't worry, they appeared to approve of everything you were doing.
Thats awesome that you got the Ac to improve its performance. I am thinking I may try it for both roof Airs in my Allgro. Good job on the video by the way. Jim
Making my next one from Aluminum like the one I put on my old Holiday Rambler in 2011. Top panel, front panel, partial sides and the rest 1/8" hole expanded aluminum mesh. Its a quick simple design, weighs much less, stops all damage and cools better.
After doing the video yesterday, today we peaked out at 102, temp inside was under 68 all day. Obvious issue solved. I am living in it next to my house while doing a major remodel. Glad I figured it out.
Not really. I am sure the engineers at Dometic determined just how much airflow is needed. This test means nothing. Just keep your a/c clean and move on.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 yeah they worked out how you need to change your a/c unit for a new one sooner from running so hot and burning out earlier then it should, but long enough after the warranty finishes...
Great hack!!! Looking forward to your Peltier video. I'm looking into some kind of similar cooling for a camper box I'm building for the back of my truck, a 4'X4'X8' insulated box to sleep in.
Video coming soon, just got to finish a few things and parts to find. 4 years ago in Texas summer heat I used 2 of these in a tiny pick up bed sleeper cab 36x40x84" with 360 watts solar for 3 weeks. I worked nights, slept days in the Texas oil fields until I got my preferred RV space, worked perfect. Kept it under 68 degrees all day, just could not put them in the sun, mounted them under covers to block sun, used a 120mm fan to circulate everywhere.
Long video but great info and very thorough, thanks! I'm planning to replace all of the vents on my new RV A/C (although with a little finer mesh)... lots of yellow jackets around and they love to make nests everywhere! I've never used a masonry wheel but I'll definitely give it a try! Thanks and God bless!
I like the video, but I'd like to have seen air flow speed with cover on before the modification. Same with a car radiator without a fan shroud , it will run hot. The cover off checking wind speed is not the same as having it on.
consider using pipe insolation on the coolant lines going into the RV i did it on my cars AC lines and noticed a huge difference.. although it did run above the exhaust manifold aswell
A lot easier, cheaper, and reduces weight, if you take a small drill bit, perhaps 1/8 inch, and drill about 50 or 100 small holes into the slotted area of the case, to increase the open area. Even just a few tiny holes in those vertical pieces will greatly reduce their resistance to air flow.
Before and after temp tests aren't really necessary for such a simple mod. More air across the evap core = better cooling. It isn't rocket science. If you need that much science to validate the $10 and 30 minutes it'll take to do this, then camping probably ain't for you anyway. Great vid John !!
Started by looking at your solar video on the harbor freight 100 watt kit and viewed a few others, really great info. I have a Dometic ac unit that gets infested by dobbers and wasps, I think this will stop that problem. Liked and subbed
Doing this modification on one of my units did not change the air evaporator temperature. With 97f OAT & 42f evaporator temperatures pre & post modification. Maybe add some insulation around that liquid line. 🤔
It's for hail protection! Manufacturers aren't always stupid. Literally hundreds if not thousands of AC coils are damaged during hailstorms if there is no protection. I've straightened up (combed) so many AC coil fins my fingers still hurt!
well air flow is good, but if your compressor is rated for example 10000 btu's that is what you have. I would like to see the amp draw on the compressor before and after the update.
Using Envirosafe (Pekin, IL) refrigerant ES12a Industrial refrigerant will lower the output cool air temperature 8-14* while reducing the load on the compressor. Price about $15 plus labor. EPA accepted and used world wide in refrigeration systems and automobiles. Ive been using it for decades.
The Carrier Air V air conditioner (no longer made) on my 2003 5th wheel has no grill at all over its condenser coils. I actually had to install a steel mesh grill over it to protect it from being damaged by hail stones here in Colorado. The added grill made no noticeable difference it the AC cooling capacity. (Cleaning the coils once a year keeps it working well.)
I live on the gulf coast of Texas, and there is no place in this state that your AC will keep up on the summer. I'm going to try this mod. My rig is 4 years old and past it's warranty anyway. If I can figure out how to get back to this video, I'll report back in a few weeks with an update.
Keep in mind that the aluminum strip that is riveted behind the shroud will expand and contract with extreme temperature swings will also add stress onto the rivets to push against the plastic. One way to solve this problem is to elongate the holes in the aluminum strip.
Plastic expands and contracts with temperature much more than aluminum, but your point is valid. When there is a difference in temperature expansion coefficients of two materials, there will be stress on the fasteners.
Good hack. My old Carrier a/c,which I really miss, did not have a back on the shroud. My Coleman does. However, keeping the a/c clean is key as well. We had so much dirt in the area due to road construction that my squirrel cage got clogged. I clean my ac twice yearly.
Micro-Air is at it again. They've invented EasyTouch RV, a new thermostat control for A/C with WiFi and Bluetooth capacity to be released this Spring. See their Facebook for more information and a new product announcement --and also RV Electricity on FB. Its for the aftermarket.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It won't be for everyone. New technology is always expensive. It hasn't been priced yet. As a ground breaker for all thermostats, this product necessarily will enter the market on the higher end. It may not be for every camper's wallet. The price will be reasonably related to the benefit of owning one, the cost of parts and cost of production and the R&D cost of development.
How about some electrical readings so you/we know if it actually is doing anything? Increasing air flow doesn't automatically mean "more cooling". If the evaporator is already absorbing heat at its maximum rate, the only thing that will increase it is a bigger evaporator. This mod may also actually increase power usage. You know how when you put your hand over a vacuum cleaner hose and block it, the motor speeds up and the amp draw goes down, then you take your hand away and the vacuum motor loads up and slows down? This mod may be the equivalent to taking your hand away and putting more load on the motor. You might use MORE power for the same cooling. The only way to know is to put instruments on it and see what the readings are. Your idea is logical, but logic doesn't always work how we expect it.
I was just curious if we made the cover that goes over the whole AC unit because you cannot find the plastic because it is not made anymore if a metal one was made to cover it and you put all the same holes in it for airflow’s would this work
I'm able to keep the temperature 30-35 degrees cooler inside my RV. I installed 2 misting nozzles at the condenser in order to cool the air entering the unit. This combined with some strategically placed mylar (windows and roof vents) works like a charm! 115 degrees outside....78 inside..
Took 8 minutes for the obligatory accidental Home Depot plug. I don't know when I started noticing these in pretty much every RV improvement video, but you can find them at your own local Rona or Lowe's for like 6 bucks.
Great solution. An alternative solution would be a heat exchanger coupled to the hot water tank. It is more expensive, but it will increase the efficiency as well.
Thank you for the video and information. I know some people were saying you took too long. You could have made it in half the time but there are some people need every turn of the screw driver to understand. Maybe, notating 4 or 5 spots like at 4:23 for the cut out, made up time, and 7:40 for the riveting would help solve that time thing for more advanced viewers. Me, I got to watch it all, know what I mean?
Great info. Will be full-timing it, starting at the end of this month. In the Phoenix area. This idea couldn't have come at a better time for us. Thanks.
Some RVs have an aluminum or galvanized roof which is not painted. If you paint your roof white, it makes a dramatic difference in the heat soak that transfers to the interior of the RV. A lot of states have rebate programs for people who can paint their roof white to save air conditioner costs and load to the grid.
Instead of using screws to keep the screen in place, just drill a few holes into the shroud around the perimeter of the opening and use zip ties to keep the screen in place. Cheaper, a lot less work, and looks much nicer.
Great idea! Cracks me up how some people can be so critical. This makes total sense and I will be doing this to both of my units this weekend. (along with a thorough cleaning) friends, if this doesn't work, (or only minimally) you've lost an hour of your life and $10. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid!
*↘* RV Air Conditioner options, bit.ly/2LfmT1G it can be installed through wall or in a former front/back window location & Copy this ebay.to/2Lj9TV8 to your bookmarks, and *In the Winter* get a NEW RV AC unit really cheap. I stock my RV with Cheap High quality survival Food Kits, bit.ly/2Qs0vGO (electronic banking fails = NO FOOD) but your RV is stocked! Another great option for RV's 2pc AC unit, amzn.to/2nJ9Nwx Pioneer WYS012-17 Air Conditioner Wall Mount Mini Split System Air Conditioner & Heat Pump all parts included Home, RV or Tiny House, 12,000 BTU and 22% less power needed. It heats too. Mount the outside unit on the tongue or rear bumper, can run on a 2000 watt generator all day long!!! Whole RV will run on this one bit.ly/2vIUKay SP4000 without problems. My repair on my RV Increases air flow almost 40% to remove the heat, increase cooling & efficiency. The HOLDPEAK Anemometer for testing air flow is this model, ebay.to/2vRb4FO its impressive at a low cost. Better Ideas and easy affordable !
B -Links to highly supported RV Sportsman Gasoline 4000 Watt Portable Generator.
Why did you list this with only a SEER of 17 when there are units with 23 SEER?
It's based on not only seasonal ratings, most with ratings above 15 SEER are a complete lie, or you could say a stretch, based on laboratory conditions, not real life. Pioneer ( Felicity Refrigeration Guangzhou China /Seoul SK ) has been known to use 5 natural categories in power use and efficiency. My concern is the start up amperage which was more important to the power abilities of a RV's wiring system.
I followed your video and I noticed very little difference in the inside temperature of my thirty seven foot RV. The outside temperature was over one hundred degrees in San Antonio, TX.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 use super capacitors to help with the high amp draw on those devices. I'm guessing you probably know this though...
Јоhn Daniel , that's a great idea, ..my unit is dripping condensation inside, the drain hole and everywhere was really clean, a freind told me it could be a little low on freon, does that sound right? (It's cooling good)
I don't have this style A\C unit, but being an A\C technician I can say this guy knows what he is talking about. Whether you get 3F or 10F more temperature differential it's going to be an improvement and increase longevity of the unit as well.
I did this. It did improve the AC. I checked the amp draw before and after. There was an improvement. Thanks for the idea.
Great video, and after working on automotive AC units for 20+ years, your theories make perfect sense. More airflow = lower temps = lower head pressure on system = more heat transfer & cooler air inside at the evaporator. Simple and effective fix... nice work John! Sent this link to some friends of mine that are actually out on the road right now with their rig.😉👍
A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
Thanks for posting when you can improve the airflow that much, that ease, that cheap its a win/win
Love how you took the time and use the meter to show before and after. well done
Yes you are right. Showing evidence is great for these kind of videos.
Thank you , for your video , it takes a man that sees a problem and has the knowledge to fix it, having bought a new 40 foot triple slide motor home , I returned to the factory authorized repair shop with ac problems , refrigerator issues and slide out problems ,and the dealers service reps will tell you this is how your unit should preform , however
however that statement is not true , showing they have no incentive to do a warranty call against the manufacture , and more times than not requires us to find a solution to problems and repair it yourselves . So much THANKS to you for sharing with your knowledge !
I like watching TH-cam videos with tips and tricks work and makes sense on a mechanical level
My older coleman has an open back, I have modified the wood framing up inside the bottom to open up the space where air must flow(cut about 1" of the corner of the inside 2x4s to increase space. I also bored large holes on both sides and installed bigger filters to allow more air into return air space. The hoghair style plenum insulation around front of airbox can be swapped out for an extruded foam board and prevent heat exchanging issues. Putting some between motor and back of plenum is another spot for improvement...just dont block air circulation into motor vents.
Nice tip...I'll bet this guy is fun to be around....I'm a junker too and love making modifications to improve performance...Now, where's my wife,s vibrator.....
John, I've watched and read so much BS, all of which never truly provided even one plausible answer until now. The moment I did your suggested hack, the temp gauge I have stuck in the fins went from 83 down to 57.2 in under 7 minutes. Brother, you my friend are worth your weight in Silver and Gold!
Incredible!
Thank you, Tommy
When I bought my new RV last year, I was disappointed with the performance of the A/C unit - ran all the time and barely kept up. Since then I followed this tutorial and made this modification exactly as shown. This summer I'm pleased to report that the A/C performance has improved dramatically. We camped for a week in 100 degree weather and were comfortable inside. I highly recommend this modification. Great job and thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I don't get it. Why do manufacturers sell you something that you have hack in order to work properly.
I think dometic figured that out. My 2010 flagstaff has no back frame or screen, its wide open. I put a 1"x1" wire gaurd on it for safety.FYI: They make that stuff in stainless steel too.Good job love your vids,no nonsense.
Reduce restriction, eliminate leaks.
I caulk and foam tape to seal any leaks where the sheet metal surrounds the evaporator & condenser.
Just take a flashlight and shine it around to see tiny gaps, or just feel around to detect where air is getting around the radiator coils. Also clean it at least once a year for better air flow.
John Daniel. A good idea! Anyone with even a modicum of common sense would know that the better, more efficient air flow past the cooling coil, the more efficient the unit. I would also replace the vent in front of the air inflow for this very reason.
Sad to say, but theres a lot of folks completely devoid of common sense and logic. But for me, the AC now runs less, and cools faster so I win even past the devoid pessimist. Who would have thought - Runs less = using less power!
30 years in the HVAC and R business.
He is correct! Less air flow equals less capacity! Also, Clean those coils! When they block up with dirt and it will hurt!
I modified both ac units on my 36 ft Tiffin Alegro Bay and it worked great for both of them. One unit is 17 years old and the smaller one is new. The other improvement I noticed is a significant reduction in ac noise. It would be interesting to measure dB before and after.
hell that even looks better to me. Plenty of different styles of screen and mesh you could use to do this. Great idea!
Great hack! We plan to make this modification next weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice work. The older Dometic units as Mr. Hyatt points out a few comments later were a three-sided box with nothing in the back but the heat transfer fins. Mamy home condensers have very little protection so the fins can be exposed and not have any restrictions. I suspect the "Designers" at Dometic had more influence than the design engineers and so the change.
Anyway, great work and a tremendous improvement to anyone with four-sided box.
I love this guy's videos he is so down to earth and his ideas are so fantastic, sometimes you think what hell why didn't I think of that? Well you didn't but he does. Thank you so much for sharing your ideas with us you make life simpler.
if you want to know if this works for your own RV, run the a/c on a really hot day and see how effective it is. Then go up on the roof and take the cover/cap/shell off(opening up the airflow) and go back inside and see if there is improvement. If there is, do the mod, if not, put the cover back on and forget about it.
Not a lot of people can objectively tell the difference... It's can be feeling colder/hotter, but to few people can accurately measure temperature, make some graphs, measure current draw, temperature difference (inside / outside / before / after), solar insolation e.t.c...
I did the same mod months ago on a perfectly working unit, temps dropped 2 degrees on the output.
@@theunconventionaldeal3879 A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 mines not 100% effective but it works better until I replace it, without covering windows it's 82 and 105 outside so good till I get a new one.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 SO you are saying that it was 75 when it was 105 outside, and this gave you a 5 degree improvement? That's great! My unit is a heat pump, so I expect that in the winter, it would also heat better
New subscriber, great content with a lot of common sense solutions to a wide range of everyday problems. Im a fixit guy myself, so i love yer style! 👍 And you're right, I can fix it myself, it aint that hard!! ❤😊
Using induction heat source on compressor free absorption refrigerator also works well
Nice trick here! One thing I would do different is put some trim on the outside also and make it look better.
To the people making comment. This is a technical video just to inform you of a better technique to ensure your air conditioning working at it top peak. I will never understand why some commenters feel I need to put down the video and the people making it? One person said it was drawn out as if he was getting bored. Some people get bored while watching documentaries and educational shows. But they get really excited when you put a cartoon on. While others was questioning the science and his technique which is there is absolutely nothing wrong with. The science is valid and the repair to increase airflow is a valid science what's your problem people? To those that made comments of encouragement and good ideas to add to the video thank you very much for being a decent human being. I guess some of these people really need to get out on their RV as quick as possible because it's starting to become calloused from too much City living. Just a thought. Y'all have a good day and try to be nicer. And John great video man keep up the good work. Who knows I might see you on the road someday.
Darrel, on target, also cant understand why someone must be compelled to make negative comments on many of these videos. Clearly they must have an extreme superiority complex
I agree. To the spreaders of negativity: If the video bothers you, MAKE A BETTER ONE. And keep your negative comments to.yourself. The rest of us are LEARNING and we do not want you to discourage our EXCELLENT TEACHER. We want MORE VIDEOS from him, NOT LESS.
Great tip and if you do all three sides it will keep out the little green frogs 😈👍👊
You should also do that on the sides to increase incoming air flow as well .By doing all of them you will transfer air at a better rate and lower you amp draw even more...It even looks better !
I've had 4 rv's with 5 roof units and they all pulled cool air in from the rear and blowed the hot air out the sides.
Amazing, I own a RV salvage yard, over 80 RV's processed through here since 2006 and not one AC unit we pulled, from a 1963 Intertherm 8800 to a 2015 Dometic has ever or without any malfunction does that backwards air flow. Not even a Window air conditioner sucks in through the face and put out on the sides. That function would over heat everything in and under the case/shroud. You should send those in for a case study and buy a lottery ticket the same day!
TIM Harrison yea all the ACs I have worked on (only like 5) do pull from the sides and blow out the back typically the fan is in front blowing thru the condenser
@@JOHNDANIEL1 so you must not have had one Coleman Mach ac come through. Because all of them pull air from rear and push out sides and do so without overheating everything under the shroud.
@@400redrider Wrong. I have a Coleman Mach 3 TSR and it doesn't do that. I bet you can't find any schematics of an AC that does ;-)
My factory Dometic on a 2017 Trailer actually shut it self off after running for a few hours in direct sunlight... this mod is high on my list.
I put a shield on top of mine. This is so the the sun is not in direct contact with the AC unit. It's basically a piece of sheet metal air gapped over the ac. The metal gets all the radiant heat from the sun. You are just cooling the hot air rather than the hot air and radiation absorbed into the body of the ac. The temp of the body panel on the ac is always well over 120 in the summer while its only 94 or so out.
This all started when my ac could not cool my place down enough. Buying a new ac was out of the question since I was renting. I had some corrugated hurricane panels. I laid those over the AC unit and now my ac was able to cool the place down and actually shut off like it was supposed to. It made my bill drop a lot. My summer bills were over $300 before this. Now over or under $200. If my ac is not in the shade, I make sure its air gapped like this now.
A year later what I did made a massive cycle change, and in a summer this year of over 3 degrees on average higher for a month this seriously made a big change. No more freezing up, and I finally figured out why, theres ONE motor on the whole unit, the restriction was so prevalent it slowed it down allowing frosting on the inside a few times. Never happened again after the mod! And no more 75 inside on the worst Texas heat, now its worse point is 70 in 105 degrees mid day. So the fact you remove saturated heat without the fan buffering it on the shroud is amazing and common sense, To most, just not all!
Thanks for the video very informative I will be doing this to mine as soon as I get a day free from work ! 👍👍
You seemed distracted for a moment by the stress of the 4 legged inspectors looking over your work. You shouldn't worry, they appeared to approve of everything you were doing.
A hint, I've been using a diamond blade in my angle grinder for years to cut vinyl siding. It works great! Never clogs.
Thats awesome that you got the Ac to improve its performance. I am thinking I may try it for both roof Airs in my Allgro. Good job on the video by the way.
Jim
It made a significant difference, very well proven this summer.
I use a Rockwell to cut frp. Makes a nice smooth controlled cut.
Sweet. Simple and effective. And you sound like Ted Nugent! Win win!
Router with laminating bit would make a good cut.
Better cut with router guide.
Thanks for the insightful knowledge.
Making my next one from Aluminum like the one I put on my old Holiday Rambler in 2011. Top panel, front panel, partial sides and the rest 1/8" hole expanded aluminum mesh. Its a quick simple design, weighs much less, stops all damage and cools better.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 wouldn't have never thought of this until today. Perfect sense and so easy to overlook and fix.
Thanks for sharing
You just made the engineers at Dometic look like fools. Very good work!! I will be giving you a shout-out on my channel next time I mention A/C units.
After doing the video yesterday, today we peaked out at 102, temp inside was under 68 all day. Obvious issue solved. I am living in it next to my house while doing a major remodel. Glad I figured it out.
Not really. I am sure the engineers at Dometic determined just how much airflow is needed. This test means nothing. Just keep your a/c clean and move on.
Increased airflow increases the heat transfer. Simple thermodynamics.
Domestic saving money, manufacturing plastic cap. RV owner saving money with modification. Actual good tip/mod.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 yeah they worked out how you need to change your a/c unit for a new one sooner from running so hot and burning out earlier then it should, but long enough after the warranty finishes...
Great hack!!! Looking forward to your Peltier video. I'm looking into some kind of similar cooling for a camper box I'm building for the back of my truck, a 4'X4'X8' insulated box to sleep in.
Video coming soon, just got to finish a few things and parts to find. 4 years ago in Texas summer heat I used 2 of these in a tiny pick up bed sleeper cab 36x40x84" with 360 watts solar for 3 weeks. I worked nights, slept days in the Texas oil fields until I got my preferred RV space, worked perfect. Kept it under 68 degrees all day, just could not put them in the sun, mounted them under covers to block sun, used a 120mm fan to circulate everywhere.
Awesome!!! Looking forward to your vid.
Long video but great info and very thorough, thanks! I'm planning to replace all of the vents on my new RV A/C (although with a little finer mesh)... lots of yellow jackets around and they love to make nests everywhere! I've never used a masonry wheel but I'll definitely give it a try! Thanks and God bless!
Do not use finer mesh. It can block airflow more than leaving the exiting plastic openings.
The old Dometic Brisk Air AC has no cover at the back. The hail can ding it up.
I like the video, but I'd like to have seen air flow speed with cover on before the modification. Same with a car radiator without a fan shroud , it will run hot. The cover off checking wind speed is not the same as having it on.
Great video! Great info! Thanks so much! Trying to learn as much as I can about my RV! Will be traveling full time by myself!
I never would have thought to do that. Mine struggles to get down to 75 on a good hot day
John, great idea. Thank you for the video and sharing with us.
consider using pipe insolation on the coolant lines going into the RV i did it on my cars AC lines and noticed a huge difference.. although it did run above the exhaust manifold aswell
Sold! Thank You for your interesting content and grat idea's!
A lot easier, cheaper, and reduces weight, if you take a small drill bit, perhaps 1/8 inch, and drill about 50 or 100 small holes into the slotted area of the case, to increase the open area. Even just a few tiny holes in those vertical pieces will greatly reduce their resistance to air flow.
Excellent tip! Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this.
Before and after temp tests aren't really necessary for such a simple mod. More air across the evap core = better cooling. It isn't rocket science. If you need that much science to validate the $10 and 30 minutes it'll take to do this, then camping probably ain't for you anyway.
Great vid John !!
Cujo Cooley condensor coil, but nice try.
I think he did it for the critics
If you don't know that's the condenser coil then you should call someone with knowledge to work on yours.
Started by looking at your solar video on the harbor freight 100 watt kit and viewed a few others, really great info. I have a Dometic ac unit that gets infested by dobbers and wasps, I think this will stop that problem. Liked and subbed
Priceless! thanks you man.
Thanks for this. Great explaining. A camera man would have made it flawless... But then what do it yourselfer has money for that shit lol.
Doing this modification on one of my units did not change the air evaporator temperature. With 97f OAT & 42f evaporator temperatures pre & post modification.
Maybe add some insulation around that liquid line. 🤔
Damn! This is awesome. Did a quick browse on your other videos. Love it! New sub my friend
We just bought a trailer in Yuma , will be doing this soon. Thanks
yeah the plastic grid is not efficient good find now some delicious modifications done :-)
Never could understand why they started molding the shroud over the back side. Older units were always wide open.
They call it California Cosmetics. Never intended to function, just waste power and look good!
to sell you a new unit when it burns out quicker :0
It's for hail protection! Manufacturers aren't always stupid. Literally hundreds if not thousands of AC coils are damaged during hailstorms if there is no protection. I've straightened up (combed) so many AC coil fins my fingers still hurt!
Yes,mine is an 87'.
well air flow is good, but if your compressor is rated for example 10000 btu's that is what you have. I would like to see the amp draw on the compressor before and after the update.
Oh hell ya! No brainer! Thanks so much!!
Easy 5-10F difference . And less heat in the enclosure also extends the life of the other components in the A/C unit.
Using Envirosafe (Pekin, IL) refrigerant ES12a Industrial refrigerant will lower the output cool air temperature 8-14* while reducing the load on the compressor. Price about $15 plus labor.
EPA accepted and used world wide in refrigeration systems and automobiles.
Ive been using it for decades.
The Carrier Air V air conditioner (no longer made) on my 2003 5th wheel has no grill at all over its condenser coils. I actually had to install a steel mesh grill over it to protect it from being damaged by hail stones here in Colorado. The added grill made no noticeable difference it the AC cooling capacity. (Cleaning the coils once a year keeps it working well.)
Mine is exposed too. I just cleaned my filters!!!!!
man stick to the project, you are jumping from project to project.
I live on the gulf coast of Texas, and there is no place in this state that your AC will keep up on the summer. I'm going to try this mod. My rig is 4 years old and past it's warranty anyway. If I can figure out how to get back to this video, I'll report back in a few weeks with an update.
Good idea and well done. Please stay on task to help us follow you.
look at the window shacker in you house has the exact same expanded metal for the grill on the back
Keep in mind that the aluminum strip that is riveted behind the shroud will expand and contract with extreme temperature swings will also add stress onto the rivets to push against the plastic. One way to solve this problem is to elongate the holes in the aluminum strip.
Plastic expands and contracts with temperature much more than aluminum, but your point is valid. When there is a difference in temperature expansion coefficients of two materials, there will be stress on the fasteners.
@@NackDSP it's rivets. They'll be fine.
As an aviation fabricator, your over thinking this. It's true but there's not enough to make any difference, unless it's about 30,000ft
You are so clever man 😲
Good hack. My old Carrier a/c,which I really miss, did not have a back on the shroud. My Coleman does. However, keeping the a/c clean is key as well. We had so much dirt in the area due to road construction that my squirrel cage got clogged. I clean my ac twice yearly.
Excellent mod! I have a Coleman Schmuck-15 RV roof air conditioner. Will this mod help with efficiency?
How about don't put the a/c on the roof where it is hot as blazes...put the compressor and condensor under the vehicle.
Micro-Air is at it again. They've invented EasyTouch RV, a new thermostat control for A/C with WiFi and Bluetooth capacity to be released this Spring. See their Facebook for more information and a new product announcement --and also RV Electricity on FB. Its for the aftermarket.
Thats some serious $$
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It won't be for everyone.
New technology is always expensive. It hasn't been priced yet. As a ground breaker for all thermostats, this product necessarily will enter the market on the higher end. It may not be for every camper's wallet. The price will be reasonably related to the benefit of owning one, the cost of parts and cost of production and the R&D cost of development.
That's brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
How about some electrical readings so you/we know if it actually is doing anything? Increasing air flow doesn't automatically mean "more cooling". If the evaporator is already absorbing heat at its maximum rate, the only thing that will increase it is a bigger evaporator. This mod may also actually increase power usage. You know how when you put your hand over a vacuum cleaner hose and block it, the motor speeds up and the amp draw goes down, then you take your hand away and the vacuum motor loads up and slows down? This mod may be the equivalent to taking your hand away and putting more load on the motor. You might use MORE power for the same cooling. The only way to know is to put instruments on it and see what the readings are. Your idea is logical, but logic doesn't always work how we expect it.
I was just curious if we made the cover that goes over the whole AC unit because you cannot find the plastic because it is not made anymore if a metal one was made to cover it and you put all the same holes in it for airflow’s would this work
I'm able to keep the temperature 30-35 degrees cooler inside my RV.
I installed 2 misting nozzles at the condenser in order to cool the air entering the unit.
This combined with some strategically placed mylar (windows and roof vents) works like a charm!
115 degrees outside....78 inside..
This will also change the compreser pressure reading aswell!
It’ll work Until the minerals in the water clog up the condenser fins
Took 8 minutes for the obligatory accidental Home Depot plug. I don't know when I started noticing these in pretty much every RV improvement video, but you can find them at your own local Rona or Lowe's for like 6 bucks.
Great solution.
An alternative solution would be a heat exchanger coupled to the hot water tank. It is more expensive, but it will increase the efficiency as well.
Thank you for the video and information. I know some people were saying you took too long. You could have made it in half the time but there are some people need every turn of the screw driver to understand. Maybe, notating 4 or 5 spots like at 4:23 for the cut out, made up time, and 7:40 for the riveting would help solve that time thing for more advanced viewers. Me, I got to watch it all, know what I mean?
We add for free because we are our own family and friends, Semper Fi
Has anyone insulated the tubing on the compressor that sends the cold refrigerant to the evaporator ?
Great info. Will be full-timing it, starting at the end of this month. In the Phoenix area. This idea couldn't have come at a better time for us. Thanks.
Some RVs have an aluminum or galvanized roof which is not painted. If you paint your roof white, it makes a dramatic difference in the heat soak that transfers to the interior of the RV. A lot of states have rebate programs for people who can paint their roof white to save air conditioner costs and load to the grid.
Thank you for your helpful video
Instead of using screws to keep the screen in place, just drill a few holes into the shroud around the perimeter of the opening and use zip ties to keep the screen in place. Cheaper, a lot less work, and looks much nicer.
You are a smart guy!
Good video.
my RV A/C unites , the shroud is open, in back, i had to get a fin tool and straighten the fins
that had been banged up by tree limbs when backing up
Excellent info 👍
Why wouldn't you put the screen all the way around the cover, the air being pushed out across the coil has to be sucked in somewhere?
Top job man love it
Where is the video that you talk about at 13:00 ?
Thanks!
Great tip. Thanks
Is this antique RV?
Great Video.. I’m gonna do that to my Dometic AC unit on my class A motorhome..thanks for the video..
Stay tuned because we have 20 of these 100 watt panels ebay.to/2KIw4E9 to put on this big Jayco
Great idea! Cracks me up how some people can be so critical. This makes total sense and I will be doing this to both of my units this weekend. (along with a thorough cleaning) friends, if this doesn't work, (or only minimally) you've lost an hour of your life and $10. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid!
All the issues I was having with the AC unit have stopped, amazing what problems the makers created to produce a cosmetic appearance.
Nicely done! Would have been nice to see the temp. difference before and after but, hey if I didn't do it then I can't bitch. Thanks for sharing...
The measurable temp difference will be negligible. This improves latent heat transfer. Thermometers measure sensible heat.
paint the screen white, it would look factory
Putting a E-radiant coating on the whole trailer roof soon with everything painted high gloss white where needed.
He's using galvanized mesh. The galvanizing process adds a zinc plating. There isn't a paint made that will stick to zinc for any length of time.
thanks