I have a correction for the video. I read it had an Inverter Compressor and said it was variable speed but it is not. That is why it didn’t start on the generator. I hope this info helps! Here is the link to the AC. The other thing to note is While this is a non ducted unit I was impressed with the performance when not ducted. I tested it with diverting it into the ducts and was not impressed with the Airflow Output. It definitely works better non ducted. That said It is still the main AC we use at this time and use the other at the same time when it gets hotter. ecocool.premierproducts.net/products/eco-cool-white-free-blow Use Code "allaboutrvs" to save $50
@@AllAboutRVs Based on several comments, it''s not a variable speed compressor, which shows when you tried to start it on the generator. If that's the case, then you are promoting something that is not as advertised.
For those of you interested in the DUCTED version of this unit….be aware. I purchased this unit recently, and returned it. It can ONLY be used with their wall thermostat. It doesn’t use the remote control, and DOES NOT have access to the WiFi App for remote access as the free-flo unit does. I spoke with their tech support, and there is no work around, and no time-table for this to be updated. It is the way it is for the foreseeable future!! I did not see that information in any of their promotional information, nor is there really any info on TH-cam about the Ducted version…..
Same experience but worse. Bolts were too short, so I got those sent ov er night. I was never able to get it to consistent temperature. It would run wild to the absolute max performance on cold, it would be like 50 degrees at night, then if I had to have the heat on it wouldn't shut off until it was 85+ inside. Very unmanageable.
After Watching your video I drove to Elkhart Indiana and purchased one of these Air Conditioners. It is everything you say it is in the video. However I too needed the longer bolts. I tried 3 hardware stores and 2 bolt supply warehouses and no one even carried a M8X1.25 as long as what I already had, much less an 1 1/2" longer. I finally found some threaded rod on Amazon and cut the threaded rod down to size and put a nut with washers on the end. After calling the Co. they advised they would send out the longer bolts, but I did not want to just leave the AC unit sitting on the roof for several days no bolted down. Thanks for the video. much appreciated
This is a great replacement for our Mach 3 ac. Not planning to upgrade but will definitely try this one if the Mach 3 fails on us. I've really learned to maintain my rv and always like you my ready.
Looks similar and sounds a lot like our Houghton a/c unit I put on our Winnebago Micro Mini trailer after the Coleman died. That Coleman was so loud! We’d get headaches from the noise! In our 5th wheel I installed Micro Airs on both a/c units, both 15,000 BTU each, in the Winnebago it was a 13,500 BTU Coleman so we got a 13,500 Houghton. Same with yours they didn’t make an easy start for the new Houghton but it hasn’t had any problems running on our solar system. It has the remote and the heat pump with the controls on the remote and the unit too. We can have normal conversation in the Winnebago and after a year it still works great. In our Jayco the main A/C is their “whisper quiet” ducted and that works great also. The a/c in the bedroom is the second 15,000 BTU unit and we don’t use it much because it’s so loud if we’re in the bedroom. When that unit dies it will either be a Houghton or this unit. Shorter height than the Coleman won’t hurt either. But yes, better made, more efficient, and, quieter A/C units are out there and getting more common, maybe the manufacturers will stop cheaping out with such deafeningly noisy A/C units and think that’s all right? Another great review and ideas!
We recently installed a Houghton Recpro 13.5 BTU AC/Heatpump on our 25' Bigfoot and are quite impressed. I saw you tested the Recpro for the heat pump. Do you have any comparisons between this one and the Recpro as far as cooling, features and sound levels?
Thank you for your videos. We have two Coleman Mach II but the 13.5’s on our Winnebago class A. They do “ ok” but we have so much windshield and front cab glass area, it’s hard for them to keep up in the desert. We would definitely consider a quieter more efficient system. Thank you
I installed the ducted version a few months ago and we really love how quiet it is. Also seems to cool and heat very well. I was surprised when I unpacked it, as I was expecting the wireless remote control. Instead it came with the wired wall mount thermostat. I was able to fish the cable through the ceiling to where I wanted to locate the thermostat and we are satisfied with it. At least we won’t be looking around for the RC as we sometimes did with the old Carrier (which we had for 17 years and still worked when I sold it.). I would appreciate the option to have the fan stop when the compressor is not running. Premiere Products said the fan would run all the time on cool, and cycle on heat, but our fan stays on all the time on both functions, regardless of how I set the fan control.
For the ducted version, how does this work? We had a Dometic fail on us and it is "ducted" in the sense that there's no direct interior access to the unit- it just goes straight into ducting that distributes throughout the ceiling. Wondering if this one would work for us. Thanks!
@@mikoserbousek4987 With the ducted version, the rooftop unit must sit directly above the standard AC opening and the RV ducts in your ceiling must be directly out of this opening. The rooftop unit dumps the air straight down into this opening. The AC inside panel has three small round openings with vents that allow you to have some of the airflow come down there, but you would have to make up your own divider to keep the air supply separate from the return portion. I sealed our opening up such that the supply air is directed into the two duct openings (one duct travels to the front of the RV and the other to the rear.). I didn’t feel we needed to be able to have the three black round vents (shown briefly toward the end of the video) shove air down at the AC location. Hope that makes sense.
How did you fish the wires through? I have a 28bh just like he does and need to replace my a/c unit and was considering the ducted version. I'm good with the location of my existing thermostat, would i be able to just tape the new wires to the old wires and pull them through do you think, or would it be a little more complicated than that?
@@bowers_396 I had previously had the roof sheeting off while doing my roof membrane replacement project, so I knew exactly how the roof 'trusses' were fabricated and how I could fish through them. About half way between the AC unit location and where I wanted to put the thermostat there is a ceiling fan. I removed it and used that location as a half way fishing access, then reinstalled the ceiling fan. As for using the old wire as a pull string, you might get that lucky! Don't just tape the two together though, make a loop and basically tie the two together so you can use a little more pulling force.
I put Houghton Heat Pumps in about 3 years ago. I saw that you had one there. Comparision between the units?? I can and have run the Houghton on a 30 year old EU2000i, but I run throught he boost mode on the Victron 24/3000/70. (I did try on just the bare bones Honda and it did well)
Great video. Wished you did this a month ago, I just upgraded both of the older ACs on my Class A. One thing I did notice when looking at their site is the ducted versions do not seem to come with the same smart (Google, Amazon) integration or a remote.
No it does not. I installed the ducted version a few months ago and was surprised it came with a wired thermostat. Fortunately it was easy for me to fish the cable through the ceiling to where I wanted the thermostat to go. Also, the inside portion of the ducted version does not look as nice/classy as the inside part of the non-ducted. But it is super quiet and we really like it.
It sounds like a great ac... however, I am one of those people who prefer the ac to turn on and off automatically... mainly because it saves money on electricity since it does not run all the time and there is no need for the fan noise all the time either.
I had the ducted version in my Wolfpack TT Toy Hauler and it was never able to reconcile the temperature input vs output and air volume output was dismal. They sent me multiple thermostats and 2 calls from their product engineer but was never able to get it to hold a temperature. The AC would just blast the whole camper to freezing, the heat would heat it to 85. Never did get it to just stay at a normal temp. The thermostat was always 5-9 degrees off my govee thermometers but it would swing every direction, not always consistently off. The thermostat wouldn't control my propane heater so I had to have ANOTHER thermostat to maintain just for propane heat. I made multiple requests for help with their customer service and was never really satisfied, they made one actual support call with me and I sent them some temp readings and they replaced the thermostat to no avail. They chose not to publish my negative review of the product on their website, they only post positive reviews, instead they just ignored me and my subsequent service requests. So I'm letting everyone know that I can. The "dehumidify" setting never really worked right, it would still just run the AC and on a couple of nights in South Texas where it was super humid (85% humdity) but about 67 degrees the dehumidifier would just run until the temperature inside was like 50 degrees, freezing me and the dogs over night. The unit was definitely more efficient on power draw, it would never go above like 7-10 amps at full tilt, which was great. I could actually have AC and coffee at the same time. But the inconsistency in temperature reading and maintaining was just too much and the proprietary thermostat just got on my nerves. Direct dump may be marginally better depending on your setup. I definitely would not recommend it.
That is a huge unit! appears to hang down more than any other I've ever seen. The roof unit is also large looking with lots of open space inside of it.
Truma Aventa! Love love love ours. Quiet, very energy efficient, low profile, and we can run ours off the 320 amp hour lithium battery albeit for about 8 hrs before tapping out. You can run it off a small generator granted you adjust the inverter to incoming amps available.
What elevation are you at? Generators will lose about 3-5% per 1,000’ off their peak output. Sometimes they can overcome this if there is a larger capacitor inside the inverter gen. So if you’re at 4,000 you need to take off about 12-20% depending on winter - summer.
I researched these heavily last Winter and if it was a true inverter compressor I would own two of them. What I found out is that its actually an inverter compressor and works at variable speed on European models with EU spec voltage input. But US models it runs the compressor at fixed speed which I would assume is maximum speed and just cycles on and off like a traditional RV AC. Disappointing because everything else about it is GREAT!
Long time subscriber and enjoy your content! We are looking to add a third AC to our GD 367bhs. We want to install it in the loft max air vent fan location. With your experience I wanted to get your opinion on the best low profile ductless option. Preferably one that doesn’t require a wired thermostat. I noticed the eco cool doesn’t offer a low profile version. Thanks for any insight or tips
Great video! Have you noticed any vibration with the Eco-cool? I had the Eco-cool installed on my 2019 Coachmen Galleria on a Sprinter chassis to replace my noisy Dometic but we are getting a bad vibration in the walls and cabinets. Sure, it is much quieter but the vibration is disappointing. I contacted Premier and they had me tighten the hold down bolts but it did not help. I expect we will have to bring it to them which is a two+ day drive for us.
Jared, interesting results on power consumption and noise generation. However what about the primary purpose of the AC, cooling? BTU ratings? Temp difference between the intake and outtake? Cu ft / min air flow? I suspect the Coleman uses the extra 30% power to cool better and move more air (which produces more noise).
So the unit you replaced was a Houghton? I was running a Dometic Penguin and just replaced with a Houghton and the difference was night and day. I went from from 80 db to 45 db interior noise level.
We have ducts that blow cool air in the bedroom. So we would probably need the ducted model. Is that more complicated to install. Would also like to know more about the other brand. Furion, I think you said. Thanks again!
I had the exact problem with my Air Conditioner wall controller also controlling my Forced Air Propane Furnace. It is fixable! The thermostat wires go from the furnace to the air conditioner controller located at the Roof Top Air Conditioner. After locating this 2 wire pair and wire nutting these directly to 2 wires running to the wall controller and replacing the wall controller with a Heal Only Basic Controller, All fixed. Put your new AC Roof Unit on and use the remote for it. Caution: there may be 24v wires or other going to the old AC so check and wire nut them off so you are left with just the 115v wires for your new unit. If you have enough wires left over that run from the old unit to the wall location you might be able to add a wall controller for your new AC? I do not buy anything with wifi, just me avoiding RF.
I'm looking for a good, high quality heat pump to replace my aging Coleman Mach 8 ducted unit. My problem is, the a/c sits in the hallway of our Nexus Viper, and the 14x14 cutout places the plenum REALLY close to the bathroom wall (in fact, the Coleman plenum is shoved up against the wall to the point that the filter grates on one side are somewhat buckled from pressing against the bathroom wall). I was looking at the Houghton / RecPro, but there's no way I could get that plenum in, and even if I did I wouldn't be able to get the filter out on that one side to clean it, so I'd have to jury-rig something to make it work with the Coleman plenum, if that's even possible. I also looked at the Furrion 15k, but they aren't offering a heat pump option. (They say they'll eventually have the 18.5k ducted heat pump which some OEMs have already started offering, but who knows when that will come out for us mere mortals?) The ducted version of this one looks like it might solve all of my problems. Do you happen to know the installed width of the ducted plenum, or have a contact that I could speak to about it?
Everything sounds good but it still required 30 amp I am looking for something I could run on 115V. I have 12v 20 kilowatt batteries in my RV trailer and try to do everything off grid so I need to figure out how can I save that energy 30 amp is pulling too much I need something like 15amp to 20amp what are my choices?
Can you measure what the wattage draw is when it is only on fan, and not using the compressor? As it sounds like if you have it on at all, that fan will always be on. I would want to know what the draw was for solar/boondocking reasons.
Hi I'm looking to buy a gree 15k for my airstream it says it comes with easy start we saw you provide a link for the easy start do I need one regardless of the one it has btw my airstream is 25 fn if it helps thanks in advance
It beeps on the unit the remote and on WiFi. If on WiFi it only beeps confirm change so changing multiple degrees you can get 1 beep but on the remote and unit it beeps for each change and degree.
I have a question cuz im confused. You guys have a very nice solar electric system. Why/how were you trying to start AC from generator? Wouldn't you just start from your solar electric (inverter) and use that small generator to charge batteries if/when needed? Thanks!! Been a fan for a while.
Good question, this isn’t something we often do but I know many others will want to know what the capabilities are of the equipment. Yes the far majority of the time the solar inverter is used but the times where the battery bank is drawn down and solar won’t get us where we need to be fast enough, we pull out the generator. The problem with using this small generator is if we are using it to charge the batteries and want the AC at the same time we would have a hard time using that combo. It can run it and have enough to charge the batteries a bit at the same time but we couldn’t have the AC cycle off and on as we do it. So then we have to use the other AC which won’t charge our batteries at the same time but can let the AC cycle as needed. I would probably let the Inverter start it and transfer it to the generator and then limit the charge so we keep from overloading the generator.
Your electric meters for testing amps, watts look like the same kind of reader on the Skills Above coddiwhomple and peacemaker, where can I find that device, at 2:46, if you dont mind, and following Sir, good page man. Also where is the tstat sensor at, dose it poke out of the bottom AC mount or is somewhere by the evap coils or intake vent.
I think I would just cut to the chase and buy a Midea house window unit and add a large ecoflow battery station. a/c is important,, more important than most junk rv people carry around.
8:58 You mentioned a few times about the furnace being controlled through the Coleman A/C. This is not correct. What it happening is that the Coleman T-stat on the wall, which controls the A/C is also controlling the furnace. The T-stat is the only thing controlling the furnace, not the A/C.
Question: At a glance it looks like your replaced ac was a RecPro which also has similar features with respect to dB, efficiency - optional smart start, cost, remote, and continuous running fan. Can you do a side by side comparison? Which do you think is better the replaced RecPro vs the Eco-Cool?
Good question. Hands down the win goes to Eco-Cool. We gave the RecPro away. So I can’t do a side by side in the RV But I did do some measurements before pulling it out. The sound was quieter than the Mach but just by a little. Its sound would be closer to the Mach than the EcoCool. The power draw was not that much different again than the Mach. It was slightly less but not by much. It didn’t have the WiFi capabilities but did have the remote. I actually prefer a wall mounted thermostat to the remote but can be a an extra step for a second Ac. It also didn’t cool the RV as fast or quite as well as the Mach. It is very difficult to get an exact test in the same RV at different times for how fast it can bring the temp down but the Eco cool feels like it brings the temp down the same or faster in the main area but doesn’t reach the rooms as well. We did have to install a Micro air easy start on it as well to use it with the generator. It needed the help and had a higher surge than the Eco-cool.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you for your detailed and quick response. We found out on our latest trip that our AC on our 2 year old camper wasn’t working in 90+deg weather. Our ac is a GE (covid production special) and I’ve been researching the known problems with GEs for leakage. A visit from our mobile tech informed us the compressor may be bad and replaceable via warranty. But I was looking for a more permanent replacement and keeping a look out for a quieter ac that I can actually hear myself think when it’s on. Anything below 50dB is all right with me. Thank you for sharing your experiences with both the RecPro and Ecocool.
Amazing what can happen when a company makes two simple adjustments to a roof ac. … and it only took 50years for them to do it. Now the minisplits on RVs, buses etc will be gone. They just need to design a low profile multi zone roof unit (like a mini) and I’d be in!
Mini split will be even more efficient than that if you can accommodate it on your rig. Also quieter. a 9000BTU minisplit is also equivalent to 12000 BTU on a standard unit. Minisplits can be down in the .4-.5kWh usage even in hot weather. Not to mention they can HEAT also. I tried looking up any data on these units, and there's no efficiency numbers or data published other than the wattage draw. Also I could not find it on the AHRI listing for efficiency testing, so that could be why they have no numbers listed. Does not seem to have an inverter compressor or heat pump, so this is still 1990's technology. I wish someone would make more modern rooftop ACs. Why is the RV industry so bass ackwards?
I do! On both my setups (a boat with Multiplus 2k + 16.5K BTU Dometic w/ Micro Air EasyStart and a motorhome with Multiplus II 3K + 2x 13.5K BTU Coleman Mach). Tried different configurations and ended up with 0/2 AWG cables directly wired from the batteries to the Multiplus. Removed all the solenoid, RBS, shunt, LVD, and busbars. Work most of the time but still getting "Overload" and "Low Battery Voltage" occasionally. Played with a ton of settings on the Multiplus'. The most reliable option for the A/Cs is a good inverter generator on propane. Rooftop and marine A/C units can drive you crazy. Trying to solve ancient A/C issues with all that cool tech is like tuning up your grandpa's Chevy truck with HO air filter and high-end stereo: we just need better A/C units. So disappointing.
I was all excited until I saw that peak starting amps. We have a 2000W inverter that powers our Coleman with a soft start. The inverter can max at 4000W peak surge, but at 47A that would be about 5500 W and we would worry about the inverter. Do you know if you can add a soft start to it? 🐾🐾
Our air conditioner is way loud. We only use it for the girls (dogs) when we are away and hooked up to shore power. I would buy it just for the quiet, if in it is fact that much quieter. $1500.00 is a lot of money just for quiet though. Great video as usual. Thanks!
For those of you considering this I was just made aware by their support that the unit's indoor fan will run continuously even when the compressor is not running. I'm likely going to be rejecting and cancelling my delivery now.
All sounds good but no real tests for actual cooling. Why make an ac review and literally didn’t test the cooling power between the Mach and this unit😑
I'm not really concerned about efficiency since I never boondock. I want an A/C that actually cools better. I don't care if it pulls all 30A. Currently running a Coleman Mach 15k BTU and it does an...ehhh...ok job. Out unit is ducted and we do have the RV Airflow in there, which helped a bit with noise and cooling. We only have one A/C on our travel trailer, no option to add a second, and it just doesn't cut it at campgrounds with zero shade. If it's 90F outside it's 80F inside. And that's with all the windows, skylights, everything covered to block all the sun from coming in.
I had the same thing going on with our rig with the same Coleman mach 15 and our solution was to install a residential mini split. It’s been working way better than our rooftop unit and also works as a heater. would definitely recommend
The Eco Cool doesn't have a soft start nor does it have a variable speed compressor. It's compressor start amperage or LRA is 48a, which equates to about 450a if you were trying to use it with a 3000w inverter and Lithium batteries. 450a to start the compressor off battery means you need a battery bank of 500a or more to make it safe for the BMS of Lithium batteries to start the Eco cool. The manufacturers label tells you everything you need to recognize that it's LRA is 48a. In comparison a 15k btu Dometic Penguin ll has a LRA of 52. So you definitely want to install a SoftStartRV on it. It does have variable speed fans, but in no way has a variable speed compressor and isn't remotely similar to a mini split system. The Eco Cool is just a more efficient stand design 15k btu air conditioner with heat pump. More efficient but with the same standard compressor like a Dometic 15k btu Penguin ll with heat pump. I get a number of about 30% than my old Dometic Penguin ll. It's also very quiet. The heat pump is also a plus compared to something like the Truma Aventa 15k btu air conditioner only.
According to Eco-Cools website for this AC it has an inverter driven compressor, so if they didn't make it variable speed they wasted a lot of money on an inverter just to run it at a single speed. My guess is they have the ramp rate set up aggressively on the compressor for reasons only they can address, hence the 45 amp startup current.
@@mum2jka 450a is the battery draw to start the Eco Cool compressor using a 3000w inverter. The Eco Cool LRA is 48a on 120vac, so that is ~450a off Lithium battery at 13vdc.
@dirtroadsailing6418 48a Startup and it isn't a variable speed compressor, although they market it as such. Sadly you can't believe what the distributor claims. If you understand how to read the manufacturer data label it tells you everything you need to know to recognize that it isn't a variable speed compressor and that it doesn't have a soft start.
Great info! Did you say you went with the ductless unit? Why did you choose to go that route and not use the existing racetrack ducts? Is it more efficient that way? Also, can these units be recharged if needed?
I have this A/C non ducted. I have a 3,000w victron inverter and 990ah of batteries. I can run it overnight 10-12 hours and it will use 50% of my battery level. CAUTION This unit causes a L1 OVERLOAD on my inverter around 5-8 times overnight. I DO NOT recommend a 3,000w inverter. The manufacturer said it was Victron’s problem, Victron replaced my 3 week old inverter for a new one and I still get an overload 5-8 times a night. The only other item running in my rig overnight is a DC powered refrigerator. The jury is still out if this unit is worth it. I have a Houghton on my other rig and it works very well and at this time I would recommend that unit. I’ll see if Gree says I have a bad unit?
Hi Jared. Nice topic as most us are sweltering, even in the Pacific NW! Two questions: 1. Would the eco-cool blow into my existing ducting where the Coleman Mach does? And 2. What make/model are those dc power monitors? Thanks in advance, and we really enjoy your excellent content.
They have both ducted and direct fire units like what Jared installed. Just have to order the one you need and it should work with your existing ducts.
Beware! Premier Products is not honest! I purchased two of the free blow units. The remote controls are not independent so they're worthless if you have more than one unit. The bolts they include in the kit are too short for many RV roofs (3.1" thick roof max). They are a metric thread that is nearly impossible to find in the appropriate length at common hardware stores. They shipped the units via a regular carrier instead of freight. The units are too heavy for most people so they get slammed around in the shipping process. The packaging for both units arrived completely destroyed. There were scratches and rub marks all over the outside of both units. I contacted Premier Products and they did nothing. I tried leaving a 3-star review on their website, which was more than fair, but they won't publish it. I left a second review, same thing. They moderate their reviews to only show 5 stars. This is just another company that will take your money and then hide from you in the event of an issue. Please take my advice and find somewhere else to spend your money.
This is not variable speed compressor and needs a soft start. There web site is false advertising. This is just a run of the meal ac unit. The new Furrion chill cube is a true variable speed inverter and does not need soft start. Thanks for the video
MicroAir has directions for the installation of an EasyStart on the Atmos 4.4 air conditioner which is exactly the same Gree manufactured air conditioner as the Gree Eco Cool, Gree Tosot, and Gree 15k BTU RV air conditioner. Gree, Atmos, Eco Cool, Tosot are all identical units white label units manufactured by Gree and uniquely branded to companies will to be the exclusive distributor for the brand. To bad Gree and Eco Cool aren't honest about the real operating parameters if this unit. So many folks will be turned off to find out it needs a soft start. Whereas if they were straight they would be like all other air conditioner manufacturers, because all 15k btu RV air conditioners need a soft start. I think consumers like honesty over hype and marketing slick sells. Eco Cool has a slick marketing and is using terms that mislead the consumer.
@patrickmgordon I contacted both SoftStartRV and Micro-Air to give them my Atmos soft start installation instructions, since I was one of the first to figure out these Gree air conditioners don't have a soft start. Micro-Air sent me this response, "We are already in the process of adding the Atmos Roof Top AC to our Knowledge Bank. Please see the attachment. Thanks, Micro Air Technical Support." The attachment was their Atmos installation wiring diagram. I was actually the second person that installed the SoftStartRV on a Atmos, the first person was the Owner of SDG, the exclusive distributor of the Atmos, who will pre-install a SoftStartRV as an option to the purchase of an Atmos 4.4 15k BTU air conditioner with heat pump (manufactured by Gree). Gree manufacturers the Atmos, Eco Cool, Tosot, etc. All identical units sold under different labels by different distributors, but they are all exactly the same unit. None of them have a soft start or variable speed compressor. If you put a amp meter on it you see the compressor operation is exactly like any other RV air conditioners compressor, it takes a couple of smaller amp steps and then runs at a steady amperage until the compressor turns off. The 2 variable speed fans, 3 speed choices, run continuously as part of its design. With fan on auto, it decides what fan speed to use. If you look at the Eco-Cool wiring diagram it's almost identical to the Truma Aventa, which is the Micro-Air and SoftStartRV instructions I used to figure out how to install a SoftStartRV on my Atmos.
I have a correction for the video. I read it had an Inverter Compressor and said it was variable speed but it is not. That is why it didn’t start on the generator. I hope this info helps! Here is the link to the AC. The other thing to note is While this is a non ducted unit I was impressed with the performance when not ducted. I tested it with diverting it into the ducts and was not impressed with the Airflow Output. It definitely works better non ducted. That said It is still the main AC we use at this time and use the other at the same time when it gets hotter.
ecocool.premierproducts.net/products/eco-cool-white-free-blow
Use Code "allaboutrvs" to save $50
You might want to change that to "save $50"
@@snehulak1965 Thanks good catch.
@@AllAboutRVs Based on several comments, it''s not a variable speed compressor, which shows when you tried to start it on the generator.
If that's the case, then you are promoting something that is not as advertised.
So does that mean that an EZ Start could be added to it after all? Would be interested in a followup
Well that kills it for me. Explains why it pulls 12.5 amps. My coleman pulls about the same. Still waiting for a true inverter style rv ac
For those of you interested in the DUCTED version of this unit….be aware. I purchased this unit recently, and returned it. It can ONLY be used with their wall thermostat. It doesn’t use the remote control, and DOES NOT have access to the WiFi App for remote access as the free-flo unit does. I spoke with their tech support, and there is no work around, and no time-table for this to be updated. It is the way it is for the foreseeable future!! I did not see that information in any of their promotional information, nor is there really any info on TH-cam about the Ducted version…..
Same experience but worse. Bolts were too short, so I got those sent ov er night. I was never able to get it to consistent temperature. It would run wild to the absolute max performance on cold, it would be like 50 degrees at night, then if I had to have the heat on it wouldn't shut off until it was 85+ inside. Very unmanageable.
After Watching your video I drove to Elkhart Indiana and purchased one of these Air Conditioners. It is everything you say it is in the video. However I too needed the longer bolts. I tried 3 hardware stores and 2 bolt supply warehouses and no one even carried a M8X1.25 as long as what I already had, much less an 1 1/2" longer. I finally found some threaded rod on Amazon and cut the threaded rod down to size and put a nut with washers on the end.
After calling the Co. they advised they would send out the longer bolts, but I did not want to just leave the AC unit sitting on the roof for several days no bolted down.
Thanks for the video. much appreciated
This is a great replacement for our Mach 3 ac. Not planning to upgrade but will definitely try this one if the Mach 3 fails on us. I've really learned to maintain my rv and always like you my ready.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I thought about installing a mini split, but dont want it mounted to the wall.
Looks similar and sounds a lot like our Houghton a/c unit I put on our Winnebago Micro Mini trailer after the Coleman died. That Coleman was so loud! We’d get headaches from the noise! In our 5th wheel I installed Micro Airs on both a/c units, both 15,000 BTU each, in the Winnebago it was a 13,500 BTU Coleman so we got a 13,500 Houghton. Same with yours they didn’t make an easy start for the new Houghton but it hasn’t had any problems running on our solar system. It has the remote and the heat pump with the controls on the remote and the unit too. We can have normal conversation in the Winnebago and after a year it still works great. In our Jayco the main A/C is their “whisper quiet” ducted and that works great also. The a/c in the bedroom is the second 15,000 BTU unit and we don’t use it much because it’s so loud if we’re in the bedroom. When that unit dies it will either be a Houghton or this unit. Shorter height than the Coleman won’t hurt either.
But yes, better made, more efficient, and, quieter A/C units are out there and getting more common, maybe the manufacturers will stop cheaping out with such deafeningly noisy A/C units and think that’s all right? Another great review and ideas!
We recently installed a Houghton Recpro 13.5 BTU AC/Heatpump on our 25' Bigfoot and are quite impressed. I saw you tested the Recpro for the heat pump. Do you have any comparisons between this one and the Recpro as far as cooling, features and sound levels?
Thank you for your videos. We have two Coleman Mach II but the 13.5’s on our Winnebago class A. They do “ ok” but we have so much windshield and front cab glass area, it’s hard for them to keep up in the desert. We would definitely consider a quieter more efficient system.
Thank you
I installed the ducted version a few months ago and we really love how quiet it is. Also seems to cool and heat very well. I was surprised when I unpacked it, as I was expecting the wireless remote control. Instead it came with the wired wall mount thermostat. I was able to fish the cable through the ceiling to where I wanted to locate the thermostat and we are satisfied with it. At least we won’t be looking around for the RC as we sometimes did with the old Carrier (which we had for 17 years and still worked when I sold it.). I would appreciate the option to have the fan stop when the compressor is not running. Premiere Products said the fan would run all the time on cool, and cycle on heat, but our fan stays on all the time on both functions, regardless of how I set the fan control.
For the ducted version, how does this work? We had a Dometic fail on us and it is "ducted" in the sense that there's no direct interior access to the unit- it just goes straight into ducting that distributes throughout the ceiling. Wondering if this one would work for us. Thanks!
@@mikoserbousek4987 With the ducted version, the rooftop unit must sit directly above the standard AC opening and the RV ducts in your ceiling must be directly out of this opening. The rooftop unit dumps the air straight down into this opening. The AC inside panel has three small round openings with vents that allow you to have some of the airflow come down there, but you would have to make up your own divider to keep the air supply separate from the return portion. I sealed our opening up such that the supply air is directed into the two duct openings (one duct travels to the front of the RV and the other to the rear.). I didn’t feel we needed to be able to have the three black round vents (shown briefly toward the end of the video) shove air down at the AC location. Hope that makes sense.
How did you fish the wires through? I have a 28bh just like he does and need to replace my a/c unit and was considering the ducted version. I'm good with the location of my existing thermostat, would i be able to just tape the new wires to the old wires and pull them through do you think, or would it be a little more complicated than that?
@@bowers_396 I had previously had the roof sheeting off while doing my roof membrane replacement project, so I knew exactly how the roof 'trusses' were fabricated and how I could fish through them. About half way between the AC unit location and where I wanted to put the thermostat there is a ceiling fan. I removed it and used that location as a half way fishing access, then reinstalled the ceiling fan. As for using the old wire as a pull string, you might get that lucky! Don't just tape the two together though, make a loop and basically tie the two together so you can use a little more pulling force.
Just being quiet would be worth it to me. I'm looking at putting a second unit on the Travel Trailer so I'll definitely have to look at this.
Might want to consider minisplits if you can fit it on your rig. They're in the 35db range when running. Also they use half the power.
I have a unit with 3AC and I would like to be able to upgrade to 3 of these. Should be able to run them all at once.
I put Houghton Heat Pumps in about 3 years ago. I saw that you had one there. Comparision between the units?? I can and have run the Houghton on a 30 year old EU2000i, but I run throught he boost mode on the Victron 24/3000/70. (I did try on just the bare bones Honda and it did well)
I'm interested to know the same. About to put in either this or the Houghton Rec Pro unit. Leaning towards the Gree
Love your videos
Keep them coming
How's this compare to the new Furrion cube?
Great info! I’ll be switching mine out soon!
Great video. Wished you did this a month ago, I just upgraded both of the older ACs on my Class A. One thing I did notice when looking at their site is the ducted versions do not seem to come with the same smart (Google, Amazon) integration or a remote.
No it does not. I installed the ducted version a few months ago and was surprised it came with a wired thermostat. Fortunately it was easy for me to fish the cable through the ceiling to where I wanted the thermostat to go. Also, the inside portion of the ducted version does not look as nice/classy as the inside part of the non-ducted. But it is super quiet and we really like it.
It sounds like a great ac... however, I am one of those people who prefer the ac to turn on and off automatically... mainly because it saves money on electricity since it does not run all the time and there is no need for the fan noise all the time either.
Thanks for the review Jared!
What draws more energy from the house batteries?
A standard on board propane heater system or your new units heat pump system.
Another great review! Keep up the solid work!
Seems like a great system. How does the Intelligent Dehumidification mode work?
Nice to have the interior noise comparison, but what about exterior noise?
I had the ducted version in my Wolfpack TT Toy Hauler and it was never able to reconcile the temperature input vs output and air volume output was dismal. They sent me multiple thermostats and 2 calls from their product engineer but was never able to get it to hold a temperature. The AC would just blast the whole camper to freezing, the heat would heat it to 85. Never did get it to just stay at a normal temp. The thermostat was always 5-9 degrees off my govee thermometers but it would swing every direction, not always consistently off. The thermostat wouldn't control my propane heater so I had to have ANOTHER thermostat to maintain just for propane heat. I made multiple requests for help with their customer service and was never really satisfied, they made one actual support call with me and I sent them some temp readings and they replaced the thermostat to no avail. They chose not to publish my negative review of the product on their website, they only post positive reviews, instead they just ignored me and my subsequent service requests. So I'm letting everyone know that I can. The "dehumidify" setting never really worked right, it would still just run the AC and on a couple of nights in South Texas where it was super humid (85% humdity) but about 67 degrees the dehumidifier would just run until the temperature inside was like 50 degrees, freezing me and the dogs over night. The unit was definitely more efficient on power draw, it would never go above like 7-10 amps at full tilt, which was great. I could actually have AC and coffee at the same time. But the inconsistency in temperature reading and maintaining was just too much and the proprietary thermostat just got on my nerves. Direct dump may be marginally better depending on your setup. I definitely would not recommend it.
This is pretty neat! I need to look into this unit. Thanks!
That is a huge unit! appears to hang down more than any other I've ever seen. The roof unit is also large looking with lots of open space inside of it.
No it’s not! Might be a little bigger but not enough to matter!
Thank you for all your videos you do
Truma Aventa! Love love love ours. Quiet, very energy efficient, low profile, and we can run ours off the 320 amp hour lithium battery albeit for about 8 hrs before tapping out. You can run it off a small generator granted you adjust the inverter to incoming amps available.
24v battery system?
@@tomwilson3013 12 volt
I dont see a 110v version, only the 230v model unforuntately.
What elevation are you at? Generators will lose about 3-5% per 1,000’ off their peak output. Sometimes they can overcome this if there is a larger capacitor inside the inverter gen. So if you’re at 4,000 you need to take off about 12-20% depending on winter - summer.
Good video. We have even the Chill Cube version and love it. Would the Gree be considered a low profile? Thanks.
Brilliant, thank you for this excellent review.
I researched these heavily last Winter and if it was a true inverter compressor I would own two of them. What I found out is that its actually an inverter compressor and works at variable speed on European models with EU spec voltage input. But US models it runs the compressor at fixed speed which I would assume is maximum speed and just cycles on and off like a traditional RV AC. Disappointing because everything else about it is GREAT!
Long time subscriber and enjoy your content!
We are looking to add a third AC to our GD 367bhs. We want to install it in the loft max air vent fan location. With your experience I wanted to get your opinion on the best low profile ductless option. Preferably one that doesn’t require a wired thermostat. I noticed the eco cool doesn’t offer a low profile version. Thanks for any insight or tips
Great video! Have you noticed any vibration with the Eco-cool? I had the Eco-cool installed on my 2019 Coachmen Galleria on a Sprinter chassis to replace my noisy Dometic but we are getting a bad vibration in the walls and cabinets. Sure, it is much quieter but the vibration is disappointing. I contacted Premier and they had me tighten the hold down bolts but it did not help. I expect we will have to bring it to them which is a two+ day drive for us.
Jared, interesting results on power consumption and noise generation. However what about the primary purpose of the AC, cooling? BTU ratings? Temp difference between the intake and outtake? Cu ft / min air flow?
I suspect the Coleman uses the extra 30% power to cool better and move more air (which produces more noise).
In your thumbnail picture, the manner in which you are positioned over the solar panel makes it look as though you are wearing a kilt.
We always can count on you to give a truthful review!
Can this run off a regular 110/15a outlet or will it trip the breaker?
So the unit you replaced was a Houghton? I was running a Dometic Penguin and just replaced with a Houghton and the difference was night and day. I went from from 80 db to 45 db interior noise level.
We have ducts that blow cool air in the bedroom. So we would probably need the ducted model. Is that more complicated to install. Would also like to know more about the other brand. Furion, I think you said. Thanks again!
I had the exact problem with my Air Conditioner wall controller also controlling my Forced Air Propane Furnace. It is fixable! The thermostat wires go from the furnace to the air conditioner controller located at the Roof Top Air Conditioner. After locating this 2 wire pair and wire nutting these directly to 2 wires running to the wall controller and replacing the wall controller with a Heal Only Basic Controller, All fixed. Put your new AC Roof Unit on and use the remote for it. Caution: there may be 24v wires or other going to the old AC so check and wire nut them off so you are left with just the 115v wires for your new unit.
If you have enough wires left over that run from the old unit to the wall location you might be able to add a wall controller for your new AC?
I do not buy anything with wifi, just me avoiding RF.
Would be curious to see how this compares to the Truma AC units
Thanks for the great review! - Which SPL app are you using? - Cheers!
so does the variable speed compressor negate the need for a soft start system?
I'm looking for a good, high quality heat pump to replace my aging Coleman Mach 8 ducted unit. My problem is, the a/c sits in the hallway of our Nexus Viper, and the 14x14 cutout places the plenum REALLY close to the bathroom wall (in fact, the Coleman plenum is shoved up against the wall to the point that the filter grates on one side are somewhat buckled from pressing against the bathroom wall). I was looking at the Houghton / RecPro, but there's no way I could get that plenum in, and even if I did I wouldn't be able to get the filter out on that one side to clean it, so I'd have to jury-rig something to make it work with the Coleman plenum, if that's even possible. I also looked at the Furrion 15k, but they aren't offering a heat pump option. (They say they'll eventually have the 18.5k ducted heat pump which some OEMs have already started offering, but who knows when that will come out for us mere mortals?)
The ducted version of this one looks like it might solve all of my problems. Do you happen to know the installed width of the ducted plenum, or have a contact that I could speak to about it?
What do you like better Cree or Houghton
@AllAboutRVs i see it has a control panel on it, is it compatible with the microair digital smart thermostat?
Another great video!
Hey, you wouldn't happen to know what refrigerant is in that unit is it r- 600 ?
Everything sounds good but it still required 30 amp I am looking for something I could run on 115V. I have 12v 20 kilowatt batteries in my RV trailer and try to do everything off grid so I need to figure out how can I save that energy 30 amp is pulling too much I need something like 15amp to 20amp what are my choices?
great video and information!
Can you measure what the wattage draw is when it is only on fan, and not using the compressor? As it sounds like if you have it on at all, that fan will always be on. I would want to know what the draw was for solar/boondocking reasons.
Hi I'm looking to buy a gree 15k for my airstream it says it comes with easy start we saw you provide a link for the easy start do I need one regardless of the one it has btw my airstream is 25 fn if it helps thanks in advance
Good information
Can you link the iPhone app?
Another great video! Question. Does it beep only when changing setting directly on the unit, or also with the remote & app?
It beeps on the unit the remote and on WiFi. If on WiFi it only beeps confirm change so changing multiple degrees you can get 1 beep but on the remote and unit it beeps for each change and degree.
Can this be installed in a RV that has ducted AC throughout the travel trailer?
Similarly priced to EG4 mini split that can run off solar
I have a question cuz im confused. You guys have a very nice solar electric system. Why/how were you trying to start AC from generator? Wouldn't you just start from your solar electric (inverter) and use that small generator to charge batteries if/when needed? Thanks!! Been a fan for a while.
Good question, this isn’t something we often do but I know many others will want to know what the capabilities are of the equipment.
Yes the far majority of the time the solar inverter is used but the times where the battery bank is drawn down and solar won’t get us where we need to be fast enough, we pull out the generator. The problem with using this small generator is if we are using it to charge the batteries and want the AC at the same time we would have a hard time using that combo. It can run it and have enough to charge the batteries a bit at the same time but we couldn’t have the AC cycle off and on as we do it. So then we have to use the other AC which won’t charge our batteries at the same time but can let the AC cycle as needed. I would probably let the Inverter start it and transfer it to the generator and then limit the charge so we keep from overloading the generator.
@@AllAboutRVs Ahh! I see. Thanks for the extra info!
What size was the generator?@@AllAboutRVs
Your electric meters for testing amps, watts look like the same kind of reader on the Skills Above coddiwhomple and peacemaker, where can I find that device, at 2:46, if you dont mind, and following Sir, good page man. Also where is the tstat sensor at, dose it poke out of the bottom AC mount or is somewhere by the evap coils or intake vent.
Why do you have a houghton on the roof and I didnt hear you discuss?
We pulled the Houghton off and put the Eco cool on. I’ve done a video in the past on the Houghton.
Will it start on Lithium battery power only?
Has anyone used a soft start for this unit and what brand
I think I would just cut to the chase and buy a Midea house window unit and add a large ecoflow battery station. a/c is important,, more important than most junk rv people carry around.
Do you know what the difference is between the Tosot and the Gree? They are identical looking except for the sticker. The Tosot is much cheaper
It’s the same unit. If you don’t need the ducted version buy the Tosot.
how are you able to run your ac going down the road?
We have an inverter setup on the RV th-cam.com/video/v4E7oNaqJlE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XvMm-7ZOm4qTSreY
I live in texas where temps are 110° can you tell me if the AC struggles in those temps?
8:58 You mentioned a few times about the furnace being controlled through the Coleman A/C. This is not correct.
What it happening is that the Coleman T-stat on the wall, which controls the A/C is also controlling the furnace. The T-stat is the only thing controlling the furnace, not the A/C.
Jared, where did you purchase your eco cool?
Curious… Is the roof profile similar in height? Higher, lower or the same?
Lower than standard and taller than some low profile.
@@AllAboutRVs thanks and great video
Question: At a glance it looks like your replaced ac was a RecPro which also has similar features with respect to dB, efficiency - optional smart start, cost, remote, and continuous running fan. Can you do a side by side comparison? Which do you think is better the replaced RecPro vs the Eco-Cool?
Good question. Hands down the win goes to Eco-Cool. We gave the RecPro away. So I can’t do a side by side in the RV But I did do some measurements before pulling it out. The sound was quieter than the Mach but just by a little. Its sound would be closer to the Mach than the EcoCool. The power draw was not that much different again than the Mach. It was slightly less but not by much. It didn’t have the WiFi capabilities but did have the remote. I actually prefer a wall mounted thermostat to the remote but can be a an extra step for a second Ac. It also didn’t cool the RV as fast or quite as well as the Mach. It is very difficult to get an exact test in the same RV at different times for how fast it can bring the temp down but the Eco cool feels like it brings the temp down the same or faster in the main area but doesn’t reach the rooms as well. We did have to install a Micro air easy start on it as well to use it with the generator. It needed the help and had a higher surge than the Eco-cool.
@@AllAboutRVs Thank you for your detailed and quick response. We found out on our latest trip that our AC on our 2 year old camper wasn’t working in 90+deg weather. Our ac is a GE (covid production special) and I’ve been researching the known problems with GEs for leakage. A visit from our mobile tech informed us the compressor may be bad and replaceable via warranty. But I was looking for a more permanent replacement and keeping a look out for a quieter ac that I can actually hear myself think when it’s on. Anything below 50dB is all right with me. Thank you for sharing your experiences with both the RecPro and Ecocool.
@AllAboutRVs can you do a video of the soft start install with the eco cool
They should have done a Bluetooth option because not everyone has WIFI all the time.
The phone app is actually controlled via Bluetooth not wifi
I wish someone will test the cheap 12 volt a/c units off Amazon.
Not worth the time n effort! They’re cheap for a reason!
Why does no one ever talk about the heat pump portion and how well it does?
Amazing what can happen when a company makes two simple adjustments to a roof ac. … and it only took 50years for them to do it. Now the minisplits on RVs, buses etc will be gone.
They just need to design a low profile multi zone roof unit (like a mini) and I’d be in!
Mini split will be even more efficient than that if you can accommodate it on your rig. Also quieter. a 9000BTU minisplit is also equivalent to 12000 BTU on a standard unit. Minisplits can be down in the .4-.5kWh usage even in hot weather. Not to mention they can HEAT also. I tried looking up any data on these units, and there's no efficiency numbers or data published other than the wattage draw. Also I could not find it on the AHRI listing for efficiency testing, so that could be why they have no numbers listed. Does not seem to have an inverter compressor or heat pump, so this is still 1990's technology. I wish someone would make more modern rooftop ACs. Why is the RV industry so bass ackwards?
Have you had ANY L1 OVERLOADS on your Victron? I get L1 OVERLOAD on my 3000w/12v Multiplus with 990ah of Victron batteries.
I do! On both my setups (a boat with Multiplus 2k + 16.5K BTU Dometic w/ Micro Air EasyStart and a motorhome with Multiplus II 3K + 2x 13.5K BTU Coleman Mach). Tried different configurations and ended up with 0/2 AWG cables directly wired from the batteries to the Multiplus. Removed all the solenoid, RBS, shunt, LVD, and busbars. Work most of the time but still getting "Overload" and "Low Battery Voltage" occasionally. Played with a ton of settings on the Multiplus'. The most reliable option for the A/Cs is a good inverter generator on propane. Rooftop and marine A/C units can drive you crazy. Trying to solve ancient A/C issues with all that cool tech is like tuning up your grandpa's Chevy truck with HO air filter and high-end stereo: we just need better A/C units. So disappointing.
I was all excited until I saw that peak starting amps. We have a 2000W inverter that powers our Coleman with a soft start. The inverter can max at 4000W peak surge, but at 47A that would be about 5500 W and we would worry about the inverter. Do you know if you can add a soft start to it? 🐾🐾
You can NOT add a soft start to this unit.
@@patrickmgordonyou can add a soft start to anything!
Be careful when running on a gen-set, Freq Drives and dirty power don't play well together.
Our air conditioner is way loud. We only use it for the girls (dogs) when we are away and hooked up to shore power. I would buy it just for the quiet, if in it is fact that much quieter. $1500.00 is a lot of money just for quiet though. Great video as usual. Thanks!
For those of you considering this I was just made aware by their support that the unit's indoor fan will run continuously even when the compressor is not running. I'm likely going to be rejecting and cancelling my delivery now.
What happened to your furrion ac?
That was on our previous RV a few years ago.
All sounds good but no real tests for actual cooling. Why make an ac review and literally didn’t test the cooling power between the Mach and this unit😑
If I'm plugging in, efficiency isn't a concern.
So the corollary would be, when you're not plugged in, efficiency would be a concern.
@@johnpalmer3848 It would be, but we're always at a powered site.
Efficiency is always a concern!
@@chriskibodeaux9818 Not if I have to spend more money, when the unit I have is already paid for.
I'm not really concerned about efficiency since I never boondock. I want an A/C that actually cools better. I don't care if it pulls all 30A. Currently running a Coleman Mach 15k BTU and it does an...ehhh...ok job. Out unit is ducted and we do have the RV Airflow in there, which helped a bit with noise and cooling. We only have one A/C on our travel trailer, no option to add a second, and it just doesn't cut it at campgrounds with zero shade. If it's 90F outside it's 80F inside. And that's with all the windows, skylights, everything covered to block all the sun from coming in.
I had the same thing going on with our rig with the same Coleman mach 15 and our solution was to install a residential mini split. It’s been working way better than our rooftop unit and also works as a heater. would definitely recommend
The Eco Cool doesn't have a soft start nor does it have a variable speed compressor. It's compressor start amperage or LRA is 48a, which equates to about 450a if you were trying to use it with a 3000w inverter and Lithium batteries. 450a to start the compressor off battery means you need a battery bank of 500a or more to make it safe for the BMS of Lithium batteries to start the Eco cool. The manufacturers label tells you everything you need to recognize that it's LRA is 48a. In comparison a 15k btu Dometic Penguin ll has a LRA of 52. So you definitely want to install a SoftStartRV on it. It does have variable speed fans, but in no way has a variable speed compressor and isn't remotely similar to a mini split system. The Eco Cool is just a more efficient stand design 15k btu air conditioner with heat pump. More efficient but with the same standard compressor like a Dometic 15k btu Penguin ll with heat pump. I get a number of about 30% than my old Dometic Penguin ll. It's also very quiet. The heat pump is also a plus compared to something like the Truma Aventa 15k btu air conditioner only.
Can you explain why with a 3000w inverter it would be 450a. I don’t understand and trying to g to learn more about our 3000w inverter. 🙂
According to Eco-Cools website for this AC it has an inverter driven compressor, so if they didn't make it variable speed they wasted a lot of money on an inverter just to run it at a single speed. My guess is they have the ramp rate set up aggressively on the compressor for reasons only they can address, hence the 45 amp startup current.
@@mum2jka 450a is the battery draw to start the Eco Cool compressor using a 3000w inverter. The Eco Cool LRA is 48a on 120vac, so that is ~450a off Lithium battery at 13vdc.
@dirtroadsailing6418 48a Startup and it isn't a variable speed compressor, although they market it as such. Sadly you can't believe what the distributor claims. If you understand how to read the manufacturer data label it tells you everything you need to know to recognize that it isn't a variable speed compressor and that it doesn't have a soft start.
@@SandyRVUpgrades thanks for that. That makes sense.
Furrion Chill Cube, Thank You!
Doesn’t have a heat pump so can’t compare!
Can you show me a link to actually buy one?
Great info! Did you say you went with the ductless unit? Why did you choose to go that route and not use the existing racetrack ducts? Is it more efficient that way?
Also, can these units be recharged if needed?
I think the 3rd ac location on his unit isn't ducted.
That’s too Loud on the Coleman
👍
I have this A/C non ducted. I have a 3,000w victron inverter and 990ah of batteries. I can run it overnight 10-12 hours and it will use 50% of my battery level. CAUTION This unit causes a L1 OVERLOAD on my inverter around 5-8 times overnight. I DO NOT recommend a 3,000w inverter. The manufacturer said it was Victron’s problem, Victron replaced my 3 week old inverter for a new one and I still get an overload 5-8 times a night. The only other item running in my rig overnight is a DC powered refrigerator. The jury is still out if this unit is worth it. I have a Houghton on my other rig and it works very well and at this time I would recommend that unit. I’ll see if Gree says I have a bad unit?
Ya the 47 amp start would be a hard no! the brisk air i have now is only around 45 and starts with a supco boost cap on a 2300w gen..
Hi Jared. Nice topic as most us are sweltering, even in the Pacific NW! Two questions: 1. Would the eco-cool blow into my existing ducting where the Coleman Mach does? And 2. What make/model are those dc power monitors? Thanks in advance, and we really enjoy your excellent content.
They have both ducted and direct fire units like what Jared installed. Just have to order the one you need and it should work with your existing ducts.
Beware! Premier Products is not honest! I purchased two of the free blow units. The remote controls are not independent so they're worthless if you have more than one unit. The bolts they include in the kit are too short for many RV roofs (3.1" thick roof max). They are a metric thread that is nearly impossible to find in the appropriate length at common hardware stores. They shipped the units via a regular carrier instead of freight. The units are too heavy for most people so they get slammed around in the shipping process. The packaging for both units arrived completely destroyed. There were scratches and rub marks all over the outside of both units. I contacted Premier Products and they did nothing. I tried leaving a 3-star review on their website, which was more than fair, but they won't publish it. I left a second review, same thing. They moderate their reviews to only show 5 stars. This is just another company that will take your money and then hide from you in the event of an issue. Please take my advice and find somewhere else to spend your money.
This is not variable speed compressor and needs a soft start. There web site is false advertising. This is just a run of the meal ac unit. The new Furrion chill cube is a true variable speed inverter and does not need soft start. Thanks for the video
I always have a hard time concentrating on what he’s saying 😏
MicroAir has directions for the installation of an EasyStart on the Atmos 4.4 air conditioner which is exactly the same Gree manufactured air conditioner as the Gree Eco Cool, Gree Tosot, and Gree 15k BTU RV air conditioner. Gree, Atmos, Eco Cool, Tosot are all identical units white label units manufactured by Gree and uniquely branded to companies will to be the exclusive distributor for the brand. To bad Gree and Eco Cool aren't honest about the real operating parameters if this unit. So many folks will be turned off to find out it needs a soft start. Whereas if they were straight they would be like all other air conditioner manufacturers, because all 15k btu RV air conditioners need a soft start. I think consumers like honesty over hype and marketing slick sells. Eco Cool has a slick marketing and is using terms that mislead the consumer.
Micro Air will tell you this unit is not supported! I tried. PLEASE SHARE A LINK, I couldn’t find the instructions you mentioned.
@patrickmgordon I contacted both SoftStartRV and Micro-Air to give them my Atmos soft start installation instructions, since I was one of the first to figure out these Gree air conditioners don't have a soft start. Micro-Air sent me this response, "We are already in the process of adding the Atmos Roof Top AC to our Knowledge Bank. Please see the attachment. Thanks, Micro Air Technical Support." The attachment was their Atmos installation wiring diagram. I was actually the second person that installed the SoftStartRV on a Atmos, the first person was the Owner of SDG, the exclusive distributor of the Atmos, who will pre-install a SoftStartRV as an option to the purchase of an Atmos 4.4 15k BTU air conditioner with heat pump (manufactured by Gree). Gree manufacturers the Atmos, Eco Cool, Tosot, etc. All identical units sold under different labels by different distributors, but they are all exactly the same unit. None of them have a soft start or variable speed compressor. If you put a amp meter on it you see the compressor operation is exactly like any other RV air conditioners compressor, it takes a couple of smaller amp steps and then runs at a steady amperage until the compressor turns off. The 2 variable speed fans, 3 speed choices, run continuously as part of its design. With fan on auto, it decides what fan speed to use. If you look at the Eco-Cool wiring diagram it's almost identical to the Truma Aventa, which is the Micro-Air and SoftStartRV instructions I used to figure out how to install a SoftStartRV on my Atmos.
@patrickmgordon Look for my other comments, I posted a video of my SoftStartRV on this Gree air conditioner, Atmos in my case.
Why is he wearing a plaid kilt in an RV Air Conditioning video?? What exactly is he showing off?? 😆😁🤣