We always miter and picture frame all our decking including returns on stair treads. We use plastic biscuits and All Weather PVC cement and have never had an issue with separation. The key is to not precut the miter and immediately cut the plate and assemble. Delaying the assembly after cutting the miter results in movement.
If it stays adhered it’s a winner.. great idea . I been doing it with fasten master hot melt glue since they came out with this system .. but will switch to 2 p 10 if you say it holds on? I’m in New England area (ct.) Mr.Tom 🔨btw, you are doing some nice work for youngsters!! I’m in yr 48 or 49 - not age, in the building trade!
I have recently installed a Trex deck. I’m planning to install the fascia. When putting two fascia boards butted up against one another does the gap show? Should I put a special cut on? I have a 16 foot deck. The fascia boards did not come in 16 footers so I plan to put up one 12 and then cut the next one to 4 feet. Thanks, great videos.
I really enjoy your videos. I'm always searching for better ways to build decks. Imho, mitered corners look better, but use CA glue and screws with caps to hide the heads. Word to the wise, just make sure that when installing in hot weather, you float the corner a bit so that when it contracts, it doesn't rip the screws out (had that experience before). Another thing is that when you choose a skirt board/fascia board, make sure you choose stock that isn't cupped on the ends. That is a pain to get the miter to lay nice.
It means to extend the miter joint past the framing so that when it cools and shrinks, it won't pull the miter apart. Since that post, I now make vertical corner pieces that the fascia board slips behind. Much nicer.
Why don’t you rip a piece long ways the width of your board, that way you would have a rounded end and all you would have to paint is top and bottom 1/8 or 3/16” edges?
How do you take small scratches out of timber tech decking number one and number two what type of cleaner do you use on timber tech? I’m having a problem getting regular dirt off it. i’ve tried dove, and I’ve used a house cleaner for vinyl siding doesn’t seem to keep it clean or get it clean. I should say like your show.
I’m a homeowner in Virginia. We had a deck installed with Trex and the perimeter miters are now all 3/4” wide. Two of the deck screws have broken off holding these boards down and I suspect it’s due to the green PT lumber framing that shrank over the past few years pulling these miters open. I’m now a big fan of these butt joints shown in this video. I now hate miters.
I'm curious, you don't just miter those corners? I feel like you can still see a lot of seams and stuff with this method, but hey if it works for you and your customers are happy that's great.
Doctor, your method sounds good, but those $4 paint samples from the big box stores are actually cheap "interior" grade paint and I doubt the painted part will hold up very long outside. Otherwise, I like the way you do it.
If you're already doing a butt joint then you could just do a regular return. A miter only opens up because both long boards are expanding and contracting. If it's just a 3/4-5/4 long return then it will never open at the miter. Save you time from ripping the pieces, filing, and painting. It would look better too.
@@jbhcrazyskills9508 It's the same as a miter but just with a short piece. Generally for ending your window aprons, baseboard, chair rail, etc. I'll make a video on it soon if you'd like.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter Ah Okay, I got you. Interesting concept. I guess the only place it could open up is between the long piece and small miter.That would certainly look better than opening at the miter.Maybe instead of an ultra small 3/4-5/4 miter, do it more like 6-12 inches.
Word to the wise, you don't have a high click through rate because most people, like me, that end up on your videos are only here because they are planning or building a deck. You're a niche youtuber, not so much a massive subscription youtuber. I'm only saying this because every single video I've watched from you I've had to skip the first 40-60 seconds to not watch the same "no one subscribes to me" spiel every time.
We always miter and picture frame all our decking including returns on stair treads. We use plastic biscuits and All Weather PVC cement and have never had an issue with separation. The key is to not precut the miter and immediately cut the plate and assemble. Delaying the assembly after cutting the miter results in movement.
Where do you get the plastic biscuits?
I’ve never had a problem with miters pulling apart either but I glue and pocket screw them.
Would you use different glue for mineral based composite such as Deckorators Vault?
If it stays adhered it’s a winner.. great idea . I been doing it with fasten master hot melt glue since they came out with this system .. but will switch to 2 p 10 if you say it holds on? I’m in New England area (ct.) Mr.Tom 🔨btw, you are doing some nice work for youngsters!!
I’m in yr 48 or 49 - not age, in the building trade!
Just what I needed!
I have recently installed a Trex deck. I’m planning to install the fascia. When putting two fascia boards butted up against one another does the gap show? Should I put a special cut on?
I have a 16 foot deck. The fascia boards did not come in 16 footers so I plan to put up one 12 and then cut the next one to 4 feet.
Thanks, great videos.
What about a self return used on moulding. Miter the end long piece and cut separate end cap to strategically to maintain thickness.
I'd spray the activator on the end cap and spread the glue on the deck board. Less worries about staining this way.
Exactly my thoughts
I really enjoy your videos. I'm always searching for better ways to build decks. Imho, mitered corners look better, but use CA glue and screws with caps to hide the heads. Word to the wise, just make sure that when installing in hot weather, you float the corner a bit so that when it contracts, it doesn't rip the screws out (had that experience before). Another thing is that when you choose a skirt board/fascia board, make sure you choose stock that isn't cupped on the ends. That is a pain to get the miter to lay nice.
what do you mean by "float the corner"?
It means to extend the miter joint past the framing so that when it cools and shrinks, it won't pull the miter apart. Since that post, I now make vertical corner pieces that the fascia board slips behind. Much nicer.
Where did you get that end cap? Aside from shaving the entire edge off of a composite piece.
Awesome tips.
Why don’t you rip a piece long ways the width of your board, that way you would have a rounded end and all you would have to paint is top and bottom 1/8 or 3/16” edges?
How do you take small scratches out of timber tech decking number one and number two what type of cleaner do you use on timber tech? I’m having a problem getting regular dirt off it. i’ve tried dove, and I’ve used a house cleaner for vinyl siding doesn’t seem to keep it clean or get it clean. I should say like your show.
I’m a homeowner in Virginia. We had a deck installed with Trex and the perimeter miters are now all 3/4” wide. Two of the deck screws have broken off holding these boards down and I suspect it’s due to the green PT lumber framing that shrank over the past few years pulling these miters open. I’m now a big fan of these butt joints shown in this video. I now hate miters.
I prefer butt joints the miter joints seem to separate after heaving
I'm curious, you don't just miter those corners? I feel like you can still see a lot of seams and stuff with this method, but hey if it works for you and your customers are happy that's great.
Great explanation. Does this method and glue work with composite decking?
The website says "2P-10 can be used on any material as long as it is clean and the surface is well prepared". There's your answer.
Have you considered using a flush trim bit ?
Do you touch up the edge of the trim piece so it looks more like the surface?
What's the website for the paint match for trex boards
Great technique.
Very cool so are you ripping the face off of the fascia to get that end cut?
I assume, but can't believe he glossed over this obvious detail lol
Working with 5/8" Trex fascia what is your end cap thickness? Thanks for the tip!
the way you did it looks awesome... if I did it, it would look like I cut one board too short and tried to put a filler piece on LoL
Do you know if the glue bonds to Trex product as well ? Thanks
Do you ever do this on fascia board (1/2 in)?
Thank you so much
Ok but you need to show HOW you made those end caps.
Have you tried two 45 so you don’t need to paint it?
you can spray the activator in a paper cup and use a brush to spread it on the board. too bad the board manufacturer doesn't make edge banding tape..
What if you leave the board long and rabbet out the back ,leaving 1/4" for the face. Then it's nearly seamless
not sure what you mean by this? Sounds interesting.
At $100/16 ft, it gets expensive to cut the end off to use for another.
Can't you router the end of the board 3/4 of an inch...heat it bend it then glue it?
I’m going to try this. I like miters better myself but I like the thought behind this so if it works it’d be cool to have in your back pocket
Doctor, your method sounds good, but those $4 paint samples from the big box stores are actually cheap "interior" grade paint and I doubt the painted part will hold up very long outside. Otherwise, I like the way you do it.
I was going to say the same. Exterior paint is needed
Never mind. Saw the end.
Outdoor miters always fail no matter the material, it seems
Anyone try this glue procedure to join 2 Trex fascia boards together to avoid butt joints?
Great
What doea this look like after 10 years? Can any one answer this for me please!
Looks like of crappy to me.....as an alternative to picture framing....and doing fascia properly with mitre cuts and proper joist support.
We 45 our fascia always
If you're already doing a butt joint then you could just do a regular return. A miter only opens up because both long boards are expanding and contracting. If it's just a 3/4-5/4 long return then it will never open at the miter. Save you time from ripping the pieces, filing, and painting. It would look better too.
what do you mean a "regular return"? What does that look like?
@@jbhcrazyskills9508 It's the same as a miter but just with a short piece. Generally for ending your window aprons, baseboard, chair rail, etc. I'll make a video on it soon if you'd like.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter Ah Okay, I got you. Interesting concept. I guess the only place it could open up is between the long piece and small miter.That would certainly look better than opening at the miter.Maybe instead of an ultra small 3/4-5/4 miter, do it more like 6-12 inches.
Agreed , Regular return is simple, straightforward, and fast. Also, most super glues will do.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenterdo you have a picture of what your describing,please,thank you.
Then you see the unfinished edge of the cap. Don’t like the idea
Word to the wise, you don't have a high click through rate because most people, like me, that end up on your videos are only here because they are planning or building a deck. You're a niche youtuber, not so much a massive subscription youtuber. I'm only saying this because every single video I've watched from you I've had to skip the first 40-60 seconds to not watch the same "no one subscribes to me" spiel every time.
Go away.
Poor baby has to watch parts of the video he doesn't want to watch because he doesn't know how to do it himself :(
in my humble opinion that is an inferior application in so many ways