Final assembly of the throttle linkage then installation of intake boots, clamps and carburetors! Support Hack A Week with a donation here: hackaweek.com/h...
making my day here in essex uk. im rebuilding a 400/4 . but close enough...... ur a great guy mate....brillint in depth videos. just what i need...... rebuilt engine. doing all the fiddly bits now.
Great to see you back at, Dino. Just FYI, if you ever have to mount those carbs again, it's really easy if you'll straddle the bike and reach down and roll the carbs up from the bottom until they match the boots. Then, once everything is lined up, take a piece of 2x4 that is about 6 inches wider than the carb rack and place your knees against the 2x4 to press forward. That lets you use your knees to give forward pressure and use your hands to rotate and line up boots, etc. You got it though. Great work. Looking forward to seeing this baby on the road.
This reminds me of mechanical calculators and teletypes. Would love a desktop kit where it comes in pieces like this bike (but with all the needed pieces) and instructions for assembly.
Hello Mr. hackaweek. I had a problem with my Honda 750/4 k3 and since I got it it’s ran like a dog with 3 legs. And I’d say for a good while before too. I’ve replaced the clutch cable as the old one was too long. I’ve replaced the advance and retard unit as some nutter had ground the end of it, the bit where the special nut goes on. So I could not turn the engine over easily to time it up. But the bit where you’ve really been very helpful is the carb strip and rebuild. My plugs were as black as coal. I’ve replaced the air filter and noticed someone had cut large holes in the filter housing to let more air in! Anyway, you mentioned the needle can have 5 slots to adjust the mixture. So I took the carbs off and without actually taking them to bits, just the frame, managed to find someone had put the little c clip in maximum rich, so I’ve put it in the middle like you did and now it runs great, so thanks a lot matey.
Huge help showing how to mount the carbs and also thanks for answering my question as to my carbs falling down after I mounted them. New clamps will probably be the ticket. And if I could soften the tubes also. Where to buy the clamps ?
Great videos. Instead of putting a grub screw back in the groove, I have put washers on the shaft either side of the rack arm where the screw goes. 2 washers either side of this between it and the operating forks holds it all in the right place. Not tried it yet though
I noticed you didn't tighten the two bolts on the flats for the throttle shaft, it was moving when you were checking the slide heights. nice to have you back making videos
+Dean Segovis hey Dean check out my channel for a walk around my Procharger drag bike, I machined all the parts and build it bike, ready for testing next year
HEY :) Good to see you`re back and back on the tube. I`ve missed your weekly episodes a lot :) Thumbs up from a fellow biker aaaaaall the way from Norway.
My carbs are sticking when all the way opened up. I took the push (pull?) cable off after I noticed it was sticking while attached. So I took the control switch apart, removed the cable from the throttle sleeve, then removed the peg from the 'butterfly'. If I push all the way down on the lifter arms, they stick when they're fully open. Even with the return spring. Where should I make an adjustment to get them to close all the way again? Are they gummed up somewhere do you think? I appreciate your channel, and any help!
Hi Dean, I recommend putting 2x two into one exhausts on the bike. It makes it a lot easier to tune up, as this bike had these on originally. I also think it looks better( my opinion). I have had some experience of this. I think its something to do with the way the exhaust gases build up in the 4 into 1 pipe on a bike that wasn't designed for these systems. If you put a 4 into one on it , I suggest a really free flowing one. But I think the 2 into 1s will save a bit of unnecessary headaches when you come to get it tuned up. Especially If you decide to put the cone air filters on, which will need a bit of fiddling to get right. hope this helps
+MrFigFisher Thanks for the info. I recently spoke with a gentleman that used to race these in the 70s. He had some good advice from experience. He said that both types of exhaust had the benefits and drawbacks. It's about the powerband. 4 - 2 - 1 gives better midrange but sacrifices top end power. 4 - 1 gives better top end but the bottom and mid can feels lower. Of course, the carbs need to be tuned differently for each setup to obtain optimum performance.
my carbs for my 75 750f were a tight fit to get back on so i pushed carb number 1 in it's boot and clamped it tight, then i tied a rope around the front of the engine and carb number 4 and used and stick to twist and tighten the rope - squeezing 2 3 and 4 into their boots like closing a door. easy. now, can you teach me an effective and super cheap way of making something to sync my carbs? there are videos out there but i like how you go into detail and explain things. thanks again!
Hi Dean. Have you looked at the Delkevic exhaust systems? They make a full stainless 4 - 1 that fits your bike for around $325. Won't rust, and much better quality than the Mac.
After assembly my carbs doesn’t moves freely like yours, I notice that the top is holding up a little be, is the any adjustment on the top cover to make it move freely?
Hello Hackaweek, thx for your video! Hey, I have a question: it is possible to change the carb. Rubber boots on the top without take the carbs apart? Thank you San.
On the carb boots/holders, one end is long and straight, the other is short and bent. Does the straight end of the carb boots/holders go toward the head, and the bent side toward the carbs? Or does the bent side go toward the head and the straight side toward the carbs?
I'm not clear on whether that rod rotates are not. The flats suggest that it doesn't. But if it doesn't rotate then why not just drill through the rod where the grub screw was and insert a pin?
+tobortine It's a "grub screw" in the Land Down Under as well. A "set screw" to us is a fastener that has the thread running up to the head of the bolt. By the by, great video, as they all are, Dean. Thanks a lot for all your entertaining and informative work.
hi Dean! great video, sir!. at 14:03 you really gave me a flashback. . no wonder why my '78 had the hardest throttle response ever felt. .;) rotating all the shafts/arms, with theese systems, -could you maybe find a genius hack/way of making this slide as easy possible?..would be great to see you upon this issue! -thanks for being back!! :)
+gorgon I'll be lubing it with some Dri-Slide graphite lube. Good stuff when applied to clean parts. The rod rotates in brass oilite bushings so it's also self lubricating.
There are two rubber tubes coming out the top of my carbs - not sure what they are supposed to do... they are not for fuel input...that's already connected... and they are not the drain tubes that connect to the float bowls. So what are they supposed to connect with?
Hi deane. I dont know if this is still open .I was trying to adjust throttle cables but I am on the last thread at handgrip and carb end . Is it ok to adjust the housing that lines up and puls the cable I adjusted the offset pin that stops the return cable . It has given me enough , as long as I'm doing no harm .for the same carbs as this video . Cheers jamie Newzealand.
@@HackaweekTV thankyou for replying and understanding what I was explaining . And it's been suggested that top breather hoses near top of carbs ,two of them should go up over and passed the battery. Atm they just run down to the swingarm . Thorts ?
That's cb750k2 carburetor; I'm actually trying to find some carburetor boots for mine the problem is is the boots are really expensive and if I buy the wrong ones can't return them I would hate to pay $80 $70 for something I can't use lol
I'm just trying to get some information I think us 72 has return spring is between carburetor 2 3 or will pretty much any CB 750 carburetor manifold boot will they fit all the same carburetors if it's a CB750,?
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Really happy to have found this video series. I'm working to rebuild a Honda 72 CB 350f.
Good luck!
Thanks it's been a tough battle so far but taking it one part at a time
making my day here in essex uk. im rebuilding a 400/4 . but close enough...... ur a great guy mate....brillint in depth videos. just what i need...... rebuilt engine. doing all the fiddly bits now.
Great to see you back at, Dino.
Just FYI, if you ever have to mount those carbs again, it's really easy if you'll straddle the bike and reach down and roll the carbs up from the bottom until they match the boots. Then, once everything is lined up, take a piece of 2x4 that is about 6 inches wider than the carb rack and place your knees against the 2x4 to press forward.
That lets you use your knees to give forward pressure and use your hands to rotate and line up boots, etc.
You got it though. Great work. Looking forward to seeing this baby on the road.
This reminds me of mechanical calculators and teletypes. Would love a desktop kit where it comes in pieces like this bike (but with all the needed pieces) and instructions for assembly.
damn you are super human dino ! I typically use a ratchet strap and some lumber to seat the carbs in the boots. (I must be getting old and frail )
Hello Mr. hackaweek. I had a problem with my Honda 750/4 k3 and since I got it it’s ran like a dog with 3 legs. And I’d say for a good while before too. I’ve replaced the clutch cable as the old one was too long. I’ve replaced the advance and retard unit as some nutter had ground the end of it, the bit where the special nut goes on. So I could not turn the engine over easily to time it up. But the bit where you’ve really been very helpful is the carb strip and rebuild. My plugs were as black as coal. I’ve replaced the air filter and noticed someone had cut large holes in the filter housing to let more air in! Anyway, you mentioned the needle can have 5 slots to adjust the mixture. So I took the carbs off and without actually taking them to bits, just the frame, managed to find someone had put the little c clip in maximum rich, so I’ve put it in the middle like you did and now it runs great, so thanks a lot matey.
Huge help showing how to mount the carbs and also thanks for answering my question as to my carbs falling down after I mounted them. New clamps will probably be the ticket. And if I could soften the tubes also. Where to buy the clamps ?
Friend, you should preheat the connections with: heat gun or hair dryer. I assure you it will be much easier.✌️✌️✌️👌🖐️
Those carbs look easier to deal with than the ones on my cb650. I may have to start hunting around for a set.
Great videos. Instead of putting a grub screw back in the groove, I have put washers on the shaft either side of the rack arm where the screw goes. 2 washers either side of this between it and the operating forks holds it all in the right place. Not tried it yet though
Wooh!I can't wait to hear the engine's sound.
I see you had some help from Sheamus today in the shop. I'll bet that he is the source of your power.
I noticed you didn't tighten the two bolts on the flats for the throttle shaft, it was moving when you were checking the slide heights. nice to have you back making videos
+John McRae Got em later. Good catch! :)
+Dean Segovis hey Dean check out my channel for a walk around my Procharger drag bike, I machined all the parts and build it bike, ready for testing next year
Impressive engine knowledge! I admire that.
HEY :)
Good to see you`re back and back on the tube. I`ve missed your weekly episodes a lot :)
Thumbs up from a fellow biker aaaaaall the way from Norway.
My carbs are sticking when all the way opened up. I took the push (pull?) cable off after I noticed it was sticking while attached. So I took the control switch apart, removed the cable from the throttle sleeve, then removed the peg from the 'butterfly'. If I push all the way down on the lifter arms, they stick when they're fully open. Even with the return spring. Where should I make an adjustment to get them to close all the way again? Are they gummed up somewhere do you think? I appreciate your channel, and any help!
Hi Dean, I recommend putting 2x two into one exhausts on the bike. It makes it a lot easier to tune up, as this bike had these on originally. I also think it looks better( my opinion). I have had some experience of this. I think its something to do with the way the exhaust gases build up in the 4 into 1 pipe on a bike that wasn't designed for these systems. If you put a 4 into one on it , I suggest a really free flowing one. But I think the 2 into 1s will save a bit of unnecessary headaches when you come to get it tuned up. Especially If you decide to put the cone air filters on, which will need a bit of fiddling to get right. hope this helps
+MrFigFisher Thanks for the info. I recently spoke with a gentleman that used to race these in the 70s. He had some good advice from experience. He said that both types of exhaust had the benefits and drawbacks. It's about the powerband. 4 - 2 - 1 gives better midrange but sacrifices top end power. 4 - 1 gives better top end but the bottom and mid can feels lower. Of course, the carbs need to be tuned differently for each setup to obtain optimum performance.
love to see you again with new videos!!
my carbs for my 75 750f were a tight fit to get back on so i pushed carb number 1 in it's boot and clamped it tight, then i tied a rope around the front of the engine and carb number 4 and used and stick to twist and tighten the rope - squeezing 2 3 and 4 into their boots like closing a door. easy. now, can you teach me an effective and super cheap way of making something to sync my carbs? there are videos out there but i like how you go into detail and explain things. thanks again!
Hi Dean. Have you looked at the Delkevic exhaust systems? They make a full stainless 4 - 1 that fits your bike for around $325. Won't rust, and much better quality than the Mac.
+jsandidge1 And Delkevic systems usually sound excellent too!....
+Dean Segovis Could find you an old Yosh 4-1 same diameter all the way back too, or theres a place that does reproductions
After assembly my carbs doesn’t moves freely like yours, I notice that the top is holding up a little be, is the any adjustment on the top cover to make it move freely?
the grub screw did the trick dean
+David Smith They do indeed look like lil grub worms sittin on your workbench.
+Dean Segovis yeah I think it's for that reason it gets the name ,I've always known them as grub screws and my dad always called them that
Hell yes ! This is great man, glad to see you again! :D
Back in the hack shack!!! Welcome :D
Wooh! Happy your back
Hello Hackaweek, thx for your video! Hey, I have a question: it is possible to change the carb. Rubber boots on the top without take the carbs apart? Thank you San.
Unfortunately not
Did you send those parts out to be rechromed..
Or do you have a home hack to brighten up those parts ..??
On the carb boots/holders, one end is long and straight, the other is short and bent. Does the straight end of the carb boots/holders go toward the head, and the bent side toward the carbs? Or does the bent side go toward the head and the straight side toward the carbs?
I love watching this
Do you have any videos of you disassembling the pivot rod from the carb bracket?
I'm not clear on whether that rod rotates are not. The flats suggest that it doesn't. But if it doesn't rotate then why not just drill through the rod where the grub screw was and insert a pin?
Another great video man!
I wish CB350F/400F carbs were this easy, they are a nightmare when it comes to just about everything
"Grub screw" is what I've always called that sort of screw, perhaps it's a British thing.
+tobortine defo a british thing
+tobortine It's a "grub screw" in the Land Down Under as well. A "set screw" to us is a fastener that has the thread running up to the head of the bolt.
By the by, great video, as they all are, Dean. Thanks a lot for all your entertaining and informative work.
great video thanks
nice :) i am looking forward to hearing your engind fire op :)
hi Dean! great video, sir!. at 14:03 you really gave me a flashback. . no wonder why my '78 had the hardest throttle response ever felt. .;)
rotating all the shafts/arms, with theese systems, -could you maybe find a genius hack/way of making this slide as easy possible?..would be great to see you upon this issue! -thanks for being back!! :)
+gorgon I'll be lubing it with some Dri-Slide graphite lube. Good stuff when applied to clean parts. The rod rotates in brass oilite bushings so it's also self lubricating.
+Dean Segovis- nice, thanks! I'll be looking into that stuff!.. :)
There are two rubber tubes coming out the top of my carbs - not sure what they are supposed to do... they are not for fuel input...that's already connected... and they are not the drain tubes that connect to the float bowls. So what are they supposed to connect with?
Probably air vent hoses. They don't connect to anything
Hi deane. I dont know if this is still open .I was trying to adjust throttle cables but I am on the last thread at handgrip and carb end . Is it ok to adjust the housing that lines up and puls the cable I adjusted the offset pin that stops the return cable . It has given me enough , as long as I'm doing no harm .for the same carbs as this video . Cheers jamie
Newzealand.
Yes, it is
@@HackaweekTV thankyou for replying and understanding what I was explaining . And it's been suggested that top breather hoses near top of carbs ,two of them should go up over and passed the battery. Atm they just run down to the swingarm .
Thorts ?
you could drill a hole in shaft itself and tap for 4mm Allen screw
+Aleksandar Prodanovic (Zen Mod) Shaft has to rotate in the stay plate.
+Dean Segovis
aha ..... in that case - you already have best solution .... maybe just a notch thicker screw
My carbs are falling off. How can I support them after I install? The weight is simply too much for the carbs to stay up in position.
+Duke Ster Keeping the stock air box helps with that. New clamps my also help.
That's cb750k2 carburetor; I'm actually trying to find some carburetor boots for mine the problem is is the boots are really expensive and if I buy the wrong ones can't return them I would hate to pay $80 $70 for something I can't use lol
I'm just trying to get some information I think us 72 has return spring is between carburetor 2 3 or will pretty much any CB 750 carburetor manifold boot will they fit all the same carburetors if it's a CB750,?
I got a 1984 Honda Sabre I'm bobbing
Grub screw!
nice
tôi yêu bộ máy đó!
✌️💪
สวัสดี ครับ 👍😍😍😍
did you really say awesome sauce lmao
+Joe Schmoe Yes, yes I did. :) It's all for entertainment value! :p
+Dean Segovis And to see if those in the back row have fallen asleep... they know who they are. lmao