I hope all of you were able to come away from this video with a couple useful tidbits of information. These are some of the hardest videos to make as there is just so much information that can be covered but it is difficult to capture it all. What are some carburetor rebuilding specifics you may want to see?
Congratulations !!! Thanks for a very nice and useful video !!! I hope and wish to receive a silver button this year TH-cam !!! I wish you success and development !!!
So cool! and I can't watch now! It's the worst! Heh. But I will be watching this very soon. I had a 1978 750 F2 that I loved. I never rebuilt the carbs, but I did balance them fairly often for flow.
The carbs looked great when finished. Jobs like this require patience, skill and time, it’s easy to see why paying someone to do repairs and restorations is expensive.
We call those wasps “mud packers”, plenty of them in my part of the world too. For cleaning jets, I use a cutting/welding torch nozzle cleaner, very carefully so as not to damage them. Dozens of different sizes in the holder and they’re very effective. Another great video, thanks!
This is an awesome video, dude! Uears ago, I bought a set of carbs for my '92 CB750 F2N, with a view to stripping and cleaning, like you did here, learning more about how they work and how they're put together...but here we are, probably 10-15 years later and I've only ever looked at them! I also have a rear or it might be a front, brake caliper that I was going to so the same with but never got around to it! One day, when all my other boring, mundane tasks arw finiahed, I can have a look? Your videos do inspire me to get out there and get my hands dirty but I'm worried that I'll bollocks something up. I need a good manual or experienced teacher to hold my hand and walk me through it! 🍻🤘💜
Awesome vid BJ, perfect timing for me. Just starting my first project on a SOHC and this is what i'll hopefully be doing over Christmas and will be looking forward to more content mate. Merry Christmas from the UK
The first set of 4 cyl carbs I ever rebuilt. At the time it was THE BIGGEST PAIN IN THE ********* I had experienced at that point. Of course I was 15 at the time and had basically a hammer and a screw driver ( not kidding) but, I did have a friend with a few essentials who was nice enough to lend them out. It took me 2 weeks. I learned a lot about patience though and figured out that I wanted to do that for a living ...among other things! Thank you for the vid young man. Brought back a lot of pain AND good feelings as well. Great job!
On carbs ,I dismantle everything (everything)from the beginning"in order" and ultrason them one by one ( it seems it does take longer but it doesn't in the end, in my opinion) Then I work on every single new parts. If needed changed/ upgraded them. But it's me. Cool, hope to have ride on country roads someday .👍 A grease monkey. 🇨🇵 Texting is not the same than "having a chat with drink around some bikes" but you have my respect as a motorcycle enthusiast. 👍🤝
As a car guy, I'm used to Holley double-pumpers and Q-Jets...this is an insanely informative video. All I can say is WOW, nice job, great explanation. Thanks BJ!!!
Even though all Carbs work on the same physics, its interesting how different engineers in different companies come up with such different designs. Really good visuals on the carb rebuild process, and thanks for the usual little tips, like heating the pilot jet just a little bit with the wire, before final cleaning.
I was intimated by these carbs when I bought my CB750 about 5 years ago, but as far as 4 cylinder carbs go, they're not too bad. Early on I found a dirty set of 750 carbs on marketplace for 100 bucks that I bought for educational purposes. I was able to take them apart and clean them without the stress of screwing up the carbs on my bike. It was a great way to learn....and become less intimated. The next bike I picked up was a vintage Triumph TR6 which has one Amal concentric on it... now that's an easy carb to deal with, especially coming off the CB750.
That was an extremely informative video!! A few things to think about. First to save time, use something like O'Rilleys brake cleaner or carb cleaner (won't harm any rubber or alum) which is like $4 a can, to dissolve the varnish before ultrasonic cleaning, saves your chemical and loosens up those parts and usually saves you from having to heat up jets(which may or may not contract to their original shape, think of what annealing does). Your float adjustment was great but mention setting the floats at an angle (like you did, maybe a bit more angle) to avoid the internal float needle springs compressing and giving you a false setting. Using the wire was perfect for cleaning out those jets, but mention never to use torch files or anything that will cut metal. Also you should do an initial sync by bringing the slides to the top and adjusting them so all are even with the top of the bore. That saves time later and is good enough for those who don't have sync gauges. Maybe soaking the bottom of that float bowl (actually all the bowls) with brake cleaner might have loosened up that drain screw enough to save it, doubtful but it would have been a good precaution. All in all this was an excellent video, one of the best I have seen, mentioning the air or fuel screws location was a good stuff and really helps the inexperienced. Just saying.....
More GOLD from B.J. here. Update from New Hampshire. ~ Almost checked into AA last week.~. A BRAND NEW 02' Bandit 600. ~ Crashed from the front. No odometer but a title. The bits and pieces define pristine. I offered $600. ~ offer accepted. Trouble I'll tell ya. Adding ANOTHER bike to the 95' cb750 Nighthawk and the 98' 1200 Bandit. Three bikes B.J. So sick. I've got an addiction here in New Hampshire. Trouble. And so ~ selling the Nighthawk. I think I've seen this one. OOPS no ~ don't remember the jeapordy theme song. What a lIfe. I'll tell ya. Thank you Thank you Thank you. Your most devoted fan, Steve from New Hampshire. 〰✨👍✨〰
It is super helpful that you are working on the carburetor block from that angle. Most other vids covering this are with the "jet side" up. Not horizontal. Thank you.
Good video, I have small chip baskets with the handle I use in my ultrasonic cleaner for odds and sods, I also run the ultrasonic for a hour, it is all fun.
Incredible, extremely helpful video Mr. Brickhouse! I really appreciate you posting this. I am finishing up my K1 750 carbs right now and this was right on time for me. Congratulations on the success of your channels! I have been watching for a while and you put out excellent content every time. I’ll be watching your car channel as well. I have a 944 that I just got running….. Happy New Year to you and yours!
I have been impressed with your ultrasonic cleaner results for a while now. We had a Branson at work and used their brand solution. I was never impressed with that solution. I have been using degreasers such as Purple Power on my carbs for years. Soaking the brass in it has always worked for me. Rarely do I actually use my "calibrated orifice unblocker" wire to clear blockages, but it still happens sometimes. Nice video, BJ!
ive seen people were people use radiator hose picks lift up endge of the boots and spray it with wd40 and come off quite good once you work your way around it
Nice thorough video BJ! I found a small dremel with all the brass wire wheels and polish wheels is a nice addition to cleaning the parts of carbs.. you mention polishing the float needle seats.. How did you do this? I have been using wooden qtips snap in half, insert wood end into a drill and then dab the tip in polish compound, insert it in the seat and pull the trigger .. seems to work good for me. but curious on how you do it as well? Thanx for the great content.
Awesome video. Picked up a few good tricks I might try on my next rebuild, especially the cardboard for the float check. Very simple and can't believe I never thought of that lol. Calipers can be a little clunky at times getting them to sit right. Sucks about the carb bowl, but what ya gonna do. Brass is tough to get out especially with such a small amount of material. At the airport I worked we pretty just drilled and heli-coil broken EGT fittings on cylinder heads because they were next to impossible to extract. Also, its interesting to see I'm not the only one that dimples the carb numbers into the bodies. It's a subtle way to keep track when they're apart. Looking forward to seeing the "Fabrication Station" in the back of the shop lol. Need more Suzuki content btw 😁 Keep up the good work dude.
That was awesome. Carbs and the "magic" they perform can be very intimidating. Question, on all the jets, it looks like you just seated them and that's it. There isn't any specific settings, correct? The a/f adjustment and getting vacuum correct are the only external adjustments needed, correct? Again, EXCELLENT vid.
Thank you. For the physical jets they simply seat. On these carbs(and most mechanical slide carbs) you can adjust the needle height, fuel/air mixture, throttle stop, and float height
Awesome video BJ, have you ever worked on cb750 carbs that were oxidized inside the bowls. On my carb rebuild I had one carb that was so oxidized that the float posts and the main jet hole had been eaten away and all of the bowls had a white powder. The only explanation I could find is that the fuel went through phase separation and the chemical reaction caused the oxidation on the aluminum. I had to completely replace the carb so all is working now.
Wow, beautiful new shop! Awesome you were able to get a replacement bowl. Your new ultrasonic cleaner does a great job! Great how you identify your carbs with the punch. Two questions: Where did you get your dental pick and how do you dispose of the cleaner in your ultrasonic tank when its dirty and done? Ive really learned a lot from your videos and appreciate it so much and look forward to every one of them. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed. I use a hammer multiple times so I was either using an impact driver to loosen the mounting bracket screws or getting the bowls to come loose.
I watched a video where this guy soaked his rock hard intake boots in a mixture of (1) part wintergreen oil and (3) parts rubbing alcohol for a couple days and they came out soft as new. Might be worth a try as this guy is meticulous with his restorations. True-Moto-Resto is his TH-cam channel.
Wow, what a incredible job you did here walking us through the process. I am now at the stage of pulling the carbs off the bike. Your struggles are the exact same struggles I have trying to pull the carbs….. Once I get the carbs off, I am not sure if I have the rebuild confidence to do what you illustrate but, I am going to try. Yes, My CB750K3 has the same lack of throttle movement…..aka I suspect - stuck needle(s), exactly like your video. Only difference is my tools do not include a ultrasonic so, I expect a pail, brush, elbow grease will have to do. You said you did not order a carb kit, what did you order, for o-rings and gasket wise? any suggestions? I'm in Canada. Thanks again for your video….
Glad you found it helpful. You can find bowl gaskets from many places like 4into1. I sourced the orings from my own oring kits you can find at places like harbor freight
Can I get your thoughts here? I followed your great video and have the bike running after 40 years parked. I have one, I hope, simple question. Background, your rebuilding carb video was beautiful, and I believe I followed it well. Of course, I need to SYNC the carbs after this rebuild (all brass replaced). TilI I get this SYNC done, I have the engine running well enough with idle at 1.2 to 1.4K. I have put on about 200 miles and the bike runs quite well with some popping at idle once fully warmed up. My question, for each new day while pushing the bike backwards out of the garage before I start up, I get a trail/spots of gas from the carb overflows. Once it starts and for any other startups for the day, no overflow occurs. Of course, I can not tell if overflow occurs while driving. Though I followed your float configurations exactly, using the manual’s float settings, do you think I adjusted the floats wrong aka too high? Did I maybe miss some step? ....... Oh, I do not need choke to start. Thank you, really appreciate your feedback.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I was closing the fuel cock every time I stopped(parked) during the day and overnight. Now just shutting the fuel cock overnight. Same results. During the overnight I place the bike on the double kickstand, during the day I use the side stand. I have not tried leaving the fuel tap on at night or leaving the bike on the side stand at night. Great idea.
Why didn't you put the carb slide lifter pivot covers on? They're available aftermarket and aren't that expensive. I always replaced any damaged ones with new. You should have put that chrome float bowl on the inside and put the dull one out to match the other side.
I like to put some anti-seize on all threads that screw into the aluminum. Also, you left off the rubber boots on top of the linkage - is there a reason for that or did you just not have any at hand? Keep up the good work!
Anti seize is definitely a good move but I haven't really felt the need on carb bodies. Engine stuff definitely. The boots were torn and I didn't feel like putting any on. They look cool without them and they are easy enough to keep clean
I have a 30l which I can't reccomend enough. Yes, they are more expensive but you will feel absolutely certain it was money well spent. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront.
About the oxidation of brass: I get the idea/need of polishing stuff as brass. But if one polishes the oxide away, and exposes it to the water it will corrode, doesn't it get brittle due to that? How do you get the tarnish back on it to protect the brass? Store it in a dry room to let it oxide again? Or should one maybe apply some zapon, wd40 or gunoil? Asking cos of saltwater.
@@BrickHouseBuilds the Oxidation of Brass. Brass reacts with the Oxygen to Tarnish/Patina, that protects the Brass so that is a wanted effect. But if not protected by Patina and exposed to water it starts corroding... Brass dissolves and gets brittle (it weakens the metal's integrity). So in theory you got to protect it after you strip off the Patina if there is a chance to get in contact with Water before the Patina is back. Inside the carb will just get in contact with gasoline, except I guess the gasoline water mix stays longer in the carbs and dissolves(?). I can be wrong ofc. You did sound as if you know (edit: and could tell me how).
Im definitely buying some of that carb cleaner. After watching your video on Tangents and after this one, that stuff is awesome. It is expensive, but how many uses have you been able to get out of it before taking it out of the ultra sonic and replacing it?
@@BrickHouseBuildsvery nice I like that basket idea as well. I have the same ultra sonic chinesium machine, but the electronics burnt up for some reason and I always ran it completely full so I’m going to upgrade to a vevor
I work on a 1970 mgb gt at the moment which I love, but i would like to build a honda cb750 or a nighthawk one day, would dawn dish soap work well to clean carbs alongside an ultrasonic cleaner?
The Benelli is just waiting. I mentioned in the original video of the bike it would be a long time before I got to it. I have other projects ahead of it like a CBX and XS400 build.
Thanks for your honesty. What do you take to stay so cool. That bowl would have taken flight if it were mine. Edit. muriatic acid. That's the name our forefathers used. Hydrochloric Acid is the proper name and it will react (dissolve) brass. Its found in all sorts of stuff.
I use clock cleaning solution on brass / bronze / copper parts like carb internals - the ones with ammonia are slightly alkaline (but much less aggressive than an acid like HCl) so just wash with clean water afterwards. It usually comes concentrated - dilute it 1:7 - 1:10. It works great in an ultrasonic cleaner too - put your pieces in a sealed glass jar with the solution and put it in the tank.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you. I'm using this video to clean and rebuild the carbs on my 1972 CB750 chopper. I really appreciate your videos and the detail that you go into.
I think you missed some of the video. I keep them assembled temporarily and get them hot in the ultrasonic to help make it easier to disassemble. Then I show full disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning.
I hope all of you were able to come away from this video with a couple useful tidbits of information. These are some of the hardest videos to make as there is just so much information that can be covered but it is difficult to capture it all. What are some carburetor rebuilding specifics you may want to see?
Carbs cleaned up great, look forward to next one. 👍🏻
The next episode should be fun!
Mud Dauber should be the project name for this bike!
Hahahaha yuuusss!!
A great step by step video, looking forward to the next one!
Glad you enjoyed!
Congratulations !!! Thanks for a very nice and useful video !!! I hope and wish to receive a silver button this year TH-cam !!! I wish you success and development !!!
Thanks so much! I think Ill pass that 100,000 mark here in a couple days! The best Christmas present ever!
Awesome work BJ ultrasonic cleaner brought them back like new nice job mate 👍👌🏁🏁❤️
Much appreciated Peter 🙏
So cool! and I can't watch now! It's the worst! Heh. But I will be watching this very soon. I had a 1978 750 F2 that I loved. I never rebuilt the carbs, but I did balance them fairly often for flow.
The carbs looked great when finished. Jobs like this require patience, skill and time, it’s easy to see why paying someone to do repairs and restorations is expensive.
Exactly. These take days to do lol
We call those wasps “mud packers”, plenty of them in my part of the world too.
For cleaning jets, I use a cutting/welding torch nozzle cleaner, very carefully so as not to damage them. Dozens of different sizes in the holder and they’re very effective.
Another great video, thanks!
I use torch cleaners as well. I have them in a pen arrangement so they look different but definitely useful
This is an awesome video, dude! Uears ago, I bought a set of carbs for my '92 CB750 F2N, with a view to stripping and cleaning, like you did here, learning more about how they work and how they're put together...but here we are, probably 10-15 years later and I've only ever looked at them! I also have a rear or it might be a front, brake caliper that I was going to so the same with but never got around to it!
One day, when all my other boring, mundane tasks arw finiahed, I can have a look?
Your videos do inspire me to get out there and get my hands dirty but I'm worried that I'll bollocks something up. I need a good manual or experienced teacher to hold my hand and walk me through it! 🍻🤘💜
Good to see you back my Young Friend. Don, San Jose, CA. 12-15-2023. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you.
Thank ya! There has been a lot of stuff going on so uploads have slowed for a bit.
No Problem, we are here for you.@@BrickHouseBuilds
Thanks BJ that was a very detailed video of a carb clean and rebuild definitely enjoyed that one 😊😊
Glad you enjoyed!
Awesome vid BJ, perfect timing for me. Just starting my first project on a SOHC and this is what i'll hopefully be doing over Christmas and will be looking forward to more content mate. Merry Christmas from the UK
Well take your time and you should be successful!
Me to my first honda cd750 just bought it here in Northern Ireland good luck
The first set of 4 cyl carbs I ever rebuilt. At the time it was THE BIGGEST PAIN IN THE ********* I had experienced at that point. Of course I was 15 at the time and had basically a hammer and a screw driver ( not kidding) but, I did have a friend with a few essentials who was nice enough to lend them out. It took me 2 weeks. I learned a lot about patience though and figured out that I wanted to do that for a living ...among other things! Thank you for the vid young man. Brought back a lot of pain AND good feelings as well. Great job!
That sounds about right! They are always a pain but you get better with experience
On carbs ,I dismantle everything (everything)from the beginning"in order" and ultrason them one by one ( it seems it does take longer but it doesn't in the end, in my opinion)
Then I work on every single new parts. If needed changed/ upgraded them.
But it's me. Cool, hope to have ride on country roads someday .👍
A grease monkey. 🇨🇵
Texting is not the same than "having a chat with drink around some bikes" but you have my respect as a motorcycle enthusiast. 👍🤝
As a car guy, I'm used to Holley double-pumpers and Q-Jets...this is an insanely informative video. All I can say is WOW, nice job, great explanation. Thanks BJ!!!
Well glad you liked it!
Congratulations ! I really like these cb 750, the Japanese engineers were very happy with this project.
Thank ya!
Good video brother, I use a welding tip cleaner with the assorted wires to clean out the jets
I use those as well. There is more I could show on jet cleaning but that would make a good standalone video
Even though all Carbs work on the same physics, its interesting how different engineers in different companies come up with such different designs. Really good visuals on the carb rebuild process, and thanks for the usual little tips, like heating the pilot jet just a little bit with the wire, before final cleaning.
Glad you enjoyed!
I was intimated by these carbs when I bought my CB750 about 5 years ago, but as far as 4 cylinder carbs go, they're not too bad. Early on I found a dirty set of 750 carbs on marketplace for 100 bucks that I bought for educational purposes. I was able to take them apart and clean them without the stress of screwing up the carbs on my bike. It was a great way to learn....and become less intimated. The next bike I picked up was a vintage Triumph TR6 which has one Amal concentric on it... now that's an easy carb to deal with, especially coming off the CB750.
Thats definitely a great way to learn for $100.
That was an extremely informative video!!
A few things to think about.
First to save time, use something like O'Rilleys brake cleaner or carb cleaner (won't harm any rubber or alum) which is like $4 a can, to dissolve the varnish before ultrasonic cleaning, saves your chemical and loosens up those parts and usually saves you from having to heat up jets(which may or may not contract to their original shape, think of what annealing does).
Your float adjustment was great but mention setting the floats at an angle (like you did, maybe a bit more angle) to avoid the internal float needle springs compressing and giving you a false setting.
Using the wire was perfect for cleaning out those jets, but mention never to use torch files or anything that will cut metal.
Also you should do an initial sync by bringing the slides to the top and adjusting them so all are even with the top of the bore. That saves time later and is good enough for those who don't have sync gauges. Maybe soaking the bottom of that float bowl (actually all the bowls) with brake cleaner might have loosened up that drain screw enough to save it, doubtful but it would have been a good precaution.
All in all this was an excellent video, one of the best I have seen, mentioning the air or fuel screws location was a good stuff and really helps the inexperienced.
Just saying.....
Thank you. I need to compile a carburetor playlist with all my carb videos as I show bench syncing and such in other ones
Watching you struggle to get those carbs off was scary. Never had carbs be that difficult to get off (thankfully!)
It may have looked worse than it was. They do require some force but not anything terrible. Its trying to control that force that can be difficult
@@BrickHouseBuilds , watching the video it looked as though it was touch and go it the carbs would come off, or the flange on the carb would crack!
Excellent video...👍.
Much appreciated 🙏
More GOLD from B.J. here. Update from New Hampshire. ~ Almost checked into AA last week.~. A BRAND NEW 02' Bandit 600. ~ Crashed from the front. No odometer but a title. The bits and pieces define pristine. I offered $600. ~ offer accepted. Trouble I'll tell ya. Adding ANOTHER bike to the 95' cb750 Nighthawk and the 98' 1200 Bandit. Three bikes B.J. So sick. I've got an addiction here in New Hampshire. Trouble. And so ~ selling the Nighthawk. I think I've seen this one. OOPS no ~ don't remember the jeapordy theme song. What a lIfe. I'll tell ya. Thank you Thank you Thank you. Your most devoted fan, Steve from New Hampshire. 〰✨👍✨〰
It is super helpful that you are working on the carburetor block from that angle. Most other vids covering this are with the "jet side" up. Not horizontal. Thank you.
I have to flip them all over to get the job done. Always hard to film carb stuff
Good job brother. Thanks for sharing
I appreciate you watching 🙏
just used my punch to remove my floats on gs750. Learned that here. thanks!
Heck yeah man! Glad it was helpful!
Was good to see Seth in the video 👍, looking forward to seeing how this bike unfolds 👍
Yeah he did great!
Really good video with some great tips that will really help guys doing this job for the first time.
@@stevencampbell8465 glad you enjoyed
Good video, I have small chip baskets with the handle I use in my ultrasonic cleaner for odds and sods, I also run the ultrasonic for a hour, it is all fun.
Incredible, extremely helpful video Mr. Brickhouse! I really appreciate you posting this. I am finishing up my K1 750 carbs right now and this was right on time for me. Congratulations on the success of your channels! I have been watching for a while and you put out excellent content every time. I’ll be watching your car channel as well. I have a 944 that I just got running…..
Happy New Year to you and yours!
Well I'm glad it was helpful!
Nice job BJ. , enjoyed the video and RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
Thank ya!
I have been impressed with your ultrasonic cleaner results for a while now. We had a Branson at work and used their brand solution. I was never impressed with that solution. I have been using degreasers such as Purple Power on my carbs for years. Soaking the brass in it has always worked for me. Rarely do I actually use my "calibrated orifice unblocker" wire to clear blockages, but it still happens sometimes. Nice video, BJ!
I can confidentially say this new chemical is far and away better than what I had been using. Coloration and overall power is so good.
Great work 👏🏻and I learned something new, really enjoying this refurb. Thank you 👍🏻🇮🇪
Glad you were able to learn something! Thank ya
liked that video, it was informative and helpful.
Glad you found it helpful!
Way wicked awesome content. I subscribed today and quite enjoyed today's videos. Can't wait to see that machine up and running
Well thank ya much Dave!
Very Professional Demonstrated 👌
Thank ya!
ive seen people were people use radiator hose picks lift up endge of the boots and spray it with wd40 and come off quite good once you work your way around it
Nice thorough video BJ! I found a small dremel with all the brass wire wheels and polish wheels is a nice addition to cleaning the parts of carbs.. you mention polishing the float needle seats.. How did you do this? I have been using wooden qtips snap in half, insert wood end into a drill and then dab the tip in polish compound, insert it in the seat and pull the trigger .. seems to work good for me. but curious on how you do it as well? Thanx for the great content.
Thats exactly how I do it!
Awesome video. Picked up a few good tricks I might try on my next rebuild, especially the cardboard for the float check. Very simple and can't believe I never thought of that lol. Calipers can be a little clunky at times getting them to sit right.
Sucks about the carb bowl, but what ya gonna do. Brass is tough to get out especially with such a small amount of material. At the airport I worked we pretty just drilled and heli-coil broken EGT fittings on cylinder heads because they were next to impossible to extract. Also, its interesting to see I'm not the only one that dimples the carb numbers into the bodies. It's a subtle way to keep track when they're apart.
Looking forward to seeing the "Fabrication Station" in the back of the shop lol. Need more Suzuki content btw 😁
Keep up the good work dude.
Glad you enjoyed! I'm very excited to get back to fabrication. Lots of stuff to build!
Thanks for this! Just what I was looking for!
🙏🙏
That was awesome. Carbs and the "magic" they perform can be very intimidating. Question, on all the jets, it looks like you just seated them and that's it. There isn't any specific settings, correct? The a/f adjustment and getting vacuum correct are the only external adjustments needed, correct? Again, EXCELLENT vid.
Thank you. For the physical jets they simply seat. On these carbs(and most mechanical slide carbs) you can adjust the needle height, fuel/air mixture, throttle stop, and float height
Man, the carbs on my ‘75 750F were way worse! They cleaned up good, though. Can’t wait to see the tuning episode for these bad boys. 😃
Yeah these weren't very bad at all. Definitely have had some nasty ones!
Smooth and clean 👌👌
🤘🤘
Awesome video BJ, have you ever worked on cb750 carbs that were oxidized inside the bowls. On my carb rebuild I had one carb that was so oxidized that the float posts and the main jet hole had been eaten away and all of the bowls had a white powder. The only explanation I could find is that the fuel went through phase separation and the chemical reaction caused the oxidation on the aluminum. I had to completely replace the carb so all is working now.
I fortunately haven't had any that were severely oxidized. There have been a few with light amounts of that but nothing to the extent you describe.
Xmods was so cool and I remember those tweezers
Haha hell yeah!
You’re a good teacher. You need a young guy to mentor.
Thank you. I'm always trying to get my nephew up here and my friend Seth you see in some of my videos
Clever guys who designed them🙃
Indeed!
Thanks for the video BJ we really appreciate it. Where did you source the o-rings from for the fuel tees ?
Those ones luckily are a basic size you could find at your local parts store. Viton is preferable but im working on getting that provided to you all
Awesome thanks! I’ll check out my local hardware store
Wow, beautiful new shop! Awesome you were able to get a replacement bowl. Your new ultrasonic cleaner does a great job! Great how you identify your carbs with the punch. Two questions: Where did you get your dental pick and how do you dispose of the cleaner in your ultrasonic tank when its dirty and done? Ive really learned a lot from your videos and appreciate it so much and look forward to every one of them. Thank you.
Thank ya! Ultrasonic solution can just be poured out. Dental pick set can be found on Amazon and is a must-have
Great video, thanks for the step by step guide. I think i can take it on now! What were you doing when you hit each one once with the hammer ?
Glad you enjoyed. I use a hammer multiple times so I was either using an impact driver to loosen the mounting bracket screws or getting the bowls to come loose.
Great work. ❤❤❤❤.
Witam ,dziękuje za odpowiedz.Pozdrawiam.
🙏🙏
I watched a video where this guy soaked his rock hard intake boots in a mixture of (1) part wintergreen oil and (3) parts rubbing alcohol for a couple days and they came out soft as new. Might be worth a try as this guy is meticulous with his restorations. True-Moto-Resto is his TH-cam channel.
I'm definitely planning to try that as I've seen those videos too. I'll for sure make a video on it
I did this in my CB750F carbs. Also used high temp plasti-dip spray on the outside to seal up any cracks from dry rotting. Worked like a charm.
@@jahmic Good idea on using the plasti-dip.
Good job!
🤘🤘
Wow, what a incredible job you did here walking us through the process. I am now at the stage of pulling the carbs off the bike. Your struggles are the exact same struggles I have trying to pull the carbs….. Once I get the carbs off, I am not sure if I have the rebuild confidence to do what you illustrate but, I am going to try. Yes, My CB750K3 has the same lack of throttle movement…..aka I suspect - stuck needle(s), exactly like your video. Only difference is my tools do not include a ultrasonic so, I expect a pail, brush, elbow grease will have to do. You said you did not order a carb kit, what did you order, for o-rings and gasket wise? any suggestions? I'm in Canada. Thanks again for your video….
Glad you found it helpful. You can find bowl gaskets from many places like 4into1. I sourced the orings from my own oring kits you can find at places like harbor freight
Thanks again for your help and tips. I just viewed the parts suggestion, very very nice.
Can I get your thoughts here? I followed your great video and have the bike running after 40 years parked. I have one, I hope, simple question. Background, your rebuilding carb video was beautiful, and I believe I followed it well. Of course, I need to SYNC the carbs after this rebuild (all brass replaced). TilI I get this SYNC done, I have the engine running well enough with idle at 1.2 to 1.4K. I have put on about 200 miles and the bike runs quite well with some popping at idle once fully warmed up. My question, for each new day while pushing the bike backwards out of the garage before I start up, I get a trail/spots of gas from the carb overflows. Once it starts and for any other startups for the day, no overflow occurs. Of course, I can not tell if overflow occurs while driving. Though I followed your float configurations exactly, using the manual’s float settings, do you think I adjusted the floats wrong aka too high? Did I maybe miss some step? ....... Oh, I do not need choke to start. Thank you, really appreciate your feedback.
@@MussbacherIndustries are you shutting the fuel tap off when the bike is not running?
@@BrickHouseBuilds I was closing the fuel cock every time I stopped(parked) during the day and overnight. Now just shutting the fuel cock overnight. Same results. During the overnight I place the bike on the double kickstand, during the day I use the side stand. I have not tried leaving the fuel tap on at night or leaving the bike on the side stand at night. Great idea.
Very helpful video!! Where can I find those part organizer trays?
Well they were originally from Harbor Freight but last time I looked for them online I couldn't find them. They may be back in stores though
Why didn't you put the carb slide lifter pivot covers on? They're available aftermarket and aren't that expensive. I always replaced any damaged ones with new. You should have put that chrome float bowl on the inside and put the dull one out to match the other side.
Because I didn't want to. I prefer the chrome on the outside.
I like to put some anti-seize on all threads that screw into the aluminum. Also, you left off the rubber boots on top of the linkage - is there a reason for that or did you just not have any at hand?
Keep up the good work!
Anti seize is definitely a good move but I haven't really felt the need on carb bodies. Engine stuff definitely. The boots were torn and I didn't feel like putting any on. They look cool without them and they are easy enough to keep clean
Very educational. What size is your ultrasonic cleaner? How big do you recommend for carb works?
I have a 30l which I can't reccomend enough. Yes, they are more expensive but you will feel absolutely certain it was money well spent. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront.
About the oxidation of brass:
I get the idea/need of polishing stuff as brass.
But if one polishes the oxide away, and exposes it to the water it will corrode, doesn't it get brittle due to that? How do you get the tarnish back on it to protect the brass? Store it in a dry room to let it oxide again? Or should one maybe apply some zapon, wd40 or gunoil?
Asking cos of saltwater.
I have no idea what you are talking about. I polish them, install them in the carbs, and ride lol.
@@BrickHouseBuilds the Oxidation of Brass. Brass reacts with the Oxygen to Tarnish/Patina, that protects the Brass so that is a wanted effect. But if not protected by Patina and exposed to water it starts corroding... Brass dissolves and gets brittle (it weakens the metal's integrity).
So in theory you got to protect it after you strip off the Patina if there is a chance to get in contact with Water before the Patina is back.
Inside the carb will just get in contact with gasoline, except I guess the gasoline water mix stays longer in the carbs and dissolves(?).
I can be wrong ofc. You did sound as if you know (edit: and could tell me how).
Im definitely buying some of that carb cleaner. After watching your video on Tangents and after this one, that stuff is awesome. It is expensive, but how many uses have you been able to get out of it before taking it out of the ultra sonic and replacing it?
The Pantera carb really came out great. I haven't changed chemical yet and still seems to be working. A gallon should last a while
@@BrickHouseBuildsvery nice I like that basket idea as well. I have the same ultra sonic chinesium machine, but the electronics burnt up for some reason and I always ran it completely full so I’m going to upgrade to a vevor
This was a cheap one. It quickly burned up the original fuse box but I swapped some modern blade fuses in and haven't had a problem since
I work on a 1970 mgb gt at the moment which I love, but i would like to build a honda cb750 or a nighthawk one day, would dawn dish soap work well to clean carbs alongside an ultrasonic cleaner?
It would be better than nothing but never as goof as a dedicated cleaner
2:27, perhaps the last time w e’ll see it like this. 3:20, well damn. 🎵In the end, it doesn’t even matter….🎶
So sad! I will have to break the news in the next video 😭
I use B-square flat screwdriver for stuff like that.
That would be a nice kit for people to invest in. Mine have all been made as I find a specific need in that moment
NOICE !
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So were the jet needles stuck in the emulsion tube or the main jet? Or was it the slides that were varnished into the bore?
The needles don't touch the main jet but rather do become varnished to the emulsion tubes. 1 cylinder (#4) did have the slide varnished to the bore.
@BrickHouseBuilds thanks buddy! I did pick up that 73 CB750 and I am at that point right now!
Did you paint that orange cart? Never seen that color.
That's actually a 70s plastic roll cart
need a tutorial on a Honda CB700SC carburetor rebuild....please
I'm sure there are some great forum writeups out there. Just approach everything with great attention to detail and you will be good
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you...found some good forumss
Not just for the average garage "handyman"
These results can absolutely be had by a garage handyman.
Any solutions for obtaining titles since the Vermont loophole has been dissolved?
Definitely check the comments in my recent Vermont video. Many many ideas in there
Will do! Thanks. Have a 82 cb750c barn find that needs one.
Cześć,a a co z projektem Benelii coś nie wyszło czy co? Tomek Polska Pozdrawiam.
The Benelli is just waiting. I mentioned in the original video of the bike it would be a long time before I got to it. I have other projects ahead of it like a CBX and XS400 build.
عمل جيد . كل عام وانتة بخير ياصديقي
Thank you!
Tremendo curro
Thank you
Thanks for your honesty. What do you take to stay so cool. That bowl would have taken flight if it were mine.
Edit. muriatic acid. That's the name our forefathers used. Hydrochloric Acid is the proper name and it will react (dissolve) brass. Its found in all sorts of stuff.
Well I just know stuff happens and I am lucky that I can be confident in finding replacement parts with relative ease
I use clock cleaning solution on brass / bronze / copper parts like carb internals - the ones with ammonia are slightly alkaline (but much less aggressive than an acid like HCl) so just wash with clean water afterwards. It usually comes concentrated - dilute it 1:7 - 1:10.
It works great in an ultrasonic cleaner too - put your pieces in a sealed glass jar with the solution and put it in the tank.
It just dissolves the oxide... hopefully
Muriatic acid is Phosphoric acid !
@@mikeford5106 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid ... "Hydrochloric acid, also known as muriatic acid or spirits of salt"
There is a bom bom at the end.
?
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Those carb drain hoses sound a bit like your chopping through hard plastic... whew.
For real lol
What temperature?
I usually run carb stuff around 50c
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you. I'm using this video to clean and rebuild the carbs on my 1972 CB750 chopper. I really appreciate your videos and the detail that you go into.
Alos wenn man das mach zerlegt man vorher schon und legt denn Vergaser in das Ultraschall Gerät hinein nur so wird alles sauber
I think you missed some of the video. I keep them assembled temporarily and get them hot in the ultrasonic to help make it easier to disassemble. Then I show full disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning.
Hi buddy
Hey!
Sorry but I just don’t get it. Just because it was “choppered” back in the day doesn’t make it cool. Aesthetically challenging in my world
Yes it does. It's very cool. You just don't get it
Sorry, but metal on metal makes me squeamish. Perhaps, a wood dowel.
Great care is taken. Not my first rodeo