I’ve noticed a trend… every person reviewing these vevor anvils cheat and “use their press” for the ricasso… Why? Sorry for you being the one that is landed with the question… I don’t understand, is it that hard to form or shape the ricasso?… if so that’s cool man it’s just something I’ve noticed is all
@@isitover9010 Well first of all I'm not the best with the hammer and I've found that it's easy to just use the press. To do it appropriately on the anvil I think I'd benefit from a block in the hardie hole. It adds a slight layer of precision that is better than I can do with the hammer to do it in the press. I have a to learn with forging! Maybe I'll change my ways in the future
@@RedBeardOpsThank You Very Much! I appreciate and respect your honesty, I’ve only bought that anvil and the single burner vevor forge so I know nothing only fan boy little things, hence why I’m asking because I honestly have no idea why or if that part was hard so I was like”crap how hard is this part?, am I going to be able to do it with out a press” hahaha so thank you!
Meshed some important info about anvils with a thorough and honest review, while also mentioning that vevor both heavily pushes products on youtube and sent you this one. Lovely review, and really appreciate the thoroughness and integrity!
awesome! I've been using this anvil for a year or so now and been pretty happy with it - although I never had a better quality anvil to compare it to. It's served me fine for what I do as a hobbyist bladesmith, and the price was right! 🙂
I use four of the 110 lbs Vevor -like anvils for my knife making workshops. They have seen about 400 beginner forgers since 2017, when I first bought them. and they are still going strong. I highly recommend these anvils provided that you do your rebound test and visual inspection of the Hardy and Pritchel holes before you take them home (sometimes these holes don't go all the way through). My only complaint is the position of the pritchel hole on the round horn (pretty useless). I would have preferred to see it located on the face where it would better support punch and drift work.
Thanks for the comment John; that's really interesting to hear! I agree on the pritchel hole... not ideal. Guess they wanted you to be able to get to the mounting holes... but odd for sure.
for the leg sand problem, drill and tap the feet with a hole that can take a pipe plug. weld the feet on, fill with sand through the hole, then screw in a pipe plug with a dab of loctite to keep it from vibrating out.
Very competent testing job! I'd suggest cleaning up the holes with silicon carbide wrapped over a piece of bar stock and rod stock. An angle grinder is so fast you're liable to overdo it before you know it.
I have the 22lb anvil from vevor and I have to say it is great I've been considering getting one of those large anvils and I believe that you have answered all of my concerns about them thanks for the info
Thank you for your thoughts on this anvil! I am getting into forging and trying to determine what anvil to get first as I progress. I know how much work goes into the videos and I appreciate it! 🤘
Great video as always man. I loved my upgrade with this anvil. Like you said for someone who upgraded from a family airloom to this was awesome. One day looking at a 200lbs+ but those are over 2k in $ so this hits the matk
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this anvil. I hope to buy one my self to be a small upgrade to my home made 123ibs japanese block anvil. I will likely weld a block of steel into the arch do to the same concern you mentioned Godbless and be safe.
I'm going to get one of these but with my available time I only have time to do stock removal. I really don't want to do stock removal I really enjoy forging the most 👍 nice stand for sure
Nice build on the stand. You ought to pouring the legs full of lead on your next one. I did that on the stand for my peddinghaus and it's pretty great.
@@RedBeardOps yeah I should have weighed it. It's nice to not have to deal with the sand and oil. Not sure how much lead it actually took. Maybe about 65-70 pounds. I got tired of moving it around pretty quick
@@RedBeardOps I'd avoid lead for that. Consider this - the objective is to create a stable support for the anvil, not an immovable object. Before welding in the mount plate pack legs with a bunch of rebar and pack/shake sand around it. That should give you the weight increase without exposure to lead. I just used a cherry stump banded with .25x2 steel strap. It takes serious effort to make it move.
Very well done as usual, Doctor Keaton. I had considered those cheap cast steel anvils several years ago, but I ended up just getting an NC Tool one instead. It was several times the price, but still under $500 (back then, but not now, lol), and I don't regret the choice. I could use more than my 4" face width, but it has a side shelf that compensates for that most of the time. I'll tell ya what that anvil could really use is... some checkering.
@@RedBeardOps Oh, they're absolutely worth the price and then some. Much better value for the low budget smith than anything else on the market or a railroad track ASO.
Definitely overthought the welding of the legs Let’s say two of the legs sat flush and the third had even as large as an 1/8” gap (you fill it while welding,that’s it 😊) Aside from that buddy I appreciate all the reviews and this is one I want also
My grandpa gave me a 64kg Brooks anvil thats in pretty nice condition. The horn has some dents but the face and body are near perfect. Really sucks though I cant forge much anymore cause of an arm injury.
I've been trying to get them to send me one of their 2x72s but yeah they send me stuff like laser engravers and 3D printers asking me to review them haha
@@RedBeardOpsthey tempted me a little when they offered me a mag drill. No idea what I'd use it for but I kind of wanted it haha. I actually personally really like their double horn design. Similar to European pig anvils.
@@OldHickoryForge I've had a Vevor 2x82 grinder for almost a year and a half now and it works fine. You have to cut off a couple inches on the tooling arm to fit 2x72 belts. Not the greatest quality, but it works until I can upgrade. I traded it for a rifle so I don't know the cost or what would be included but I have two small wheels and a 12" contact wheel, as well as the flat platen. If you have any questions about that grinder, maybe I can help
This was a mistake by VEVOR in the product description. Someone asked this question on the product page and VEVOR responded that it's cast steel. They list the black 132 pounder at a 55 HRC and the blue 132 pounder at a 50 HRC.
My question is 'why do you only drop the ball 9 inches for a 10 inch drop test?' You start at 1 inch down and drop it just 9 inches. Does dropping it from a lower level affect the rebound % as it is a different energy profile? Just curious.
On VEVOR's site the material is listed as "drop-forged high-grade steel"... with the hardness results, I'm pretty sure that it is steel and not cast iron on the face. I think putting cast iron in the title was a mistake.
Well now you got another anvil, and you forged a knife on it.Oh you still got 99 hooks to go. LOL be looking for your new knife build video. Stay safe James.
You did the hardness test on the point which is easy to harden, you have to test the center of the anvil. And it's already dented from bouncing a ball barring on it. Tis is a soft anvil. Who wants that?
⚙ Free CAD Files - www.patreon.com/posts/vevor-anvil-and-93457675
⚡ VEVOR 132 LBS Anvil (Vevor Site) (Discount Code VVSALE5 for 5% off) - s.vevor.com/bfQD2H
⚡ Or buy on Amazon here - amzn.to/3RZ15Jx
I’ve noticed a trend… every person reviewing these vevor anvils cheat and “use their press” for the ricasso…
Why? Sorry for you being the one that is landed with the question… I don’t understand, is it that hard to form or shape the ricasso?… if so that’s cool man it’s just something I’ve noticed is all
@@isitover9010 Well first of all I'm not the best with the hammer and I've found that it's easy to just use the press. To do it appropriately on the anvil I think I'd benefit from a block in the hardie hole. It adds a slight layer of precision that is better than I can do with the hammer to do it in the press. I have a to learn with forging! Maybe I'll change my ways in the future
@@RedBeardOpsThank You Very Much! I appreciate and respect your honesty, I’ve only bought that anvil and the single burner vevor forge so I know nothing only fan boy little things, hence why I’m asking because I honestly have no idea why or if that part was hard so I was like”crap how hard is this part?, am I going to be able to do it with out a press” hahaha so thank you!
Meshed some important info about anvils with a thorough and honest review, while also mentioning that vevor both heavily pushes products on youtube and sent you this one. Lovely review, and really appreciate the thoroughness and integrity!
Glad it was helpful!
awesome! I've been using this anvil for a year or so now and been pretty happy with it - although I never had a better quality anvil to compare it to. It's served me fine for what I do as a hobbyist bladesmith, and the price was right! 🙂
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment... I'm excited to put some hours on it
I use four of the 110 lbs Vevor -like anvils for my knife making workshops. They have seen about 400 beginner forgers since 2017, when I first bought them. and they are still going strong. I highly recommend these anvils provided that you do your rebound test and visual inspection of the Hardy and Pritchel holes before you take them home (sometimes these holes don't go all the way through). My only complaint is the position of the pritchel hole on the round horn (pretty useless). I would have preferred to see it located on the face where it would better support punch and drift work.
Thanks for the comment John; that's really interesting to hear! I agree on the pritchel hole... not ideal. Guess they wanted you to be able to get to the mounting holes... but odd for sure.
for the leg sand problem, drill and tap the feet with a hole that can take a pipe plug. weld the feet on, fill with sand through the hole, then screw in a pipe plug with a dab of loctite to keep it from vibrating out.
Good idea!
Very competent testing job! I'd suggest cleaning up the holes with silicon carbide wrapped over a piece of bar stock and rod stock. An angle grinder is so fast you're liable to overdo it before you know it.
Great point!
I have the 22lb anvil from vevor and I have to say it is great I've been considering getting one of those large anvils and I believe that you have answered all of my concerns about them thanks for the info
Right on! Good luck with your projects!
@RedBeardOps thanks I haven't been able to get out to the shop and work on things lately you know that adulting thing
Thank you for your thoughts on this anvil! I am getting into forging and trying to determine what anvil to get first as I progress. I know how much work goes into the videos and I appreciate it! 🤘
Glad it was helpful! Cheers man!
Great video as always man. I loved my upgrade with this anvil. Like you said for someone who upgraded from a family airloom to this was awesome. One day looking at a 200lbs+ but those are over 2k in $ so this hits the matk
Agreed! A 200+ pounder would be awesome one day.
Picking one of these up in January
Heck yeah! I found they're cheaper on VEVORs site... I got a discount code in the description too
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this anvil. I hope to buy one my self to be a small upgrade to my home made 123ibs japanese block anvil. I will likely weld a block of steel into the arch do to the same concern you mentioned Godbless and be safe.
Best of luck!
because you got that free for review, who knows what a buyer will get.
I was honest in my review, and acknowledged it was sent to me for free. Best I can do. This anvil is still in my shop.
Thank you for your review
Glad it was helpful!
I'm going to get one of these but with my available time I only have time to do stock removal. I really don't want to do stock removal I really enjoy forging the most 👍 nice stand for sure
I feel you man, but hey... a lot of those skills will transfer when you get to forging!
Nice build on the stand. You ought to pouring the legs full of lead on your next one. I did that on the stand for my peddinghaus and it's pretty great.
That's a good idea! didn't even think of that! Gosh I bet that is heavy AF
@@RedBeardOps yeah I should have weighed it. It's nice to not have to deal with the sand and oil. Not sure how much lead it actually took. Maybe about 65-70 pounds. I got tired of moving it around pretty quick
@@RedBeardOps I'd avoid lead for that. Consider this - the objective is to create a stable support for the anvil, not an immovable object. Before welding in the mount plate pack legs with a bunch of rebar and pack/shake sand around it. That should give you the weight increase without exposure to lead.
I just used a cherry stump banded with .25x2 steel strap. It takes serious effort to make it move.
Very well done as usual, Doctor Keaton. I had considered those cheap cast steel anvils several years ago, but I ended up just getting an NC Tool one instead. It was several times the price, but still under $500 (back then, but not now, lol), and I don't regret the choice. I could use more than my 4" face width, but it has a side shelf that compensates for that most of the time.
I'll tell ya what that anvil could really use is... some checkering.
Thanks for your comment sir! Heck, I'm impressed with it for the price. Could be better for sure, but hard to complain.
@@RedBeardOps Oh, they're absolutely worth the price and then some. Much better value for the low budget smith than anything else on the market or a railroad track ASO.
Nice!! Think I’m gonna purchase vevor’s 66lb London pattern anvil.
I'll be curious to see how it works out for you! Cheers sir!
Definitely overthought the welding of the legs
Let’s say two of the legs sat flush and the third had even as large as an 1/8” gap (you fill it while welding,that’s it 😊)
Aside from that buddy I appreciate all the reviews and this is one I want also
Cheers! I tend to overthink some things... LOL
@@RedBeardOps was a pleasure to watch either way ,rock on
How awesome. Great making video anyway ☺☺
Thank you 🤗
My grandpa gave me a 64kg Brooks anvil thats in pretty nice condition. The horn has some dents but the face and body are near perfect. Really sucks though I cant forge much anymore cause of an arm injury.
Darn sorry to hear that man!
You gettin all scientific there dude 🥴. Like all but the pritchel hole location.
Thanks for whatcha do. 👍🍻
Man, it's hard not to dive a little deep on stuff... I agree with your comment on the pritchel hole!
Has anyone drilled a pritchel hole in a better location? Seems like a simple solution.
@@robertfrench9687 Seems like it, doesn't it?
I've been trying to get them to send me one of their 2x72s but yeah they send me stuff like laser engravers and 3D printers asking me to review them haha
Hahaha, they crack me up... some useful stuff though in their catalog for sure. I really wish this anvil was a little smaller but solid in the base...
@@RedBeardOpsthey tempted me a little when they offered me a mag drill. No idea what I'd use it for but I kind of wanted it haha. I actually personally really like their double horn design. Similar to European pig anvils.
@@OldHickoryForge I feel you on the mag drill... I've had a few applications for one of those over the years for sure
@@OldHickoryForge I've had a Vevor 2x82 grinder for almost a year and a half now and it works fine. You have to cut off a couple inches on the tooling arm to fit 2x72 belts. Not the greatest quality, but it works until I can upgrade. I traded it for a rifle so I don't know the cost or what would be included but I have two small wheels and a 12" contact wheel, as well as the flat platen. If you have any questions about that grinder, maybe I can help
Simple solution spray foam for windows and doors would do absolute trick for the sand
Nice idea!
I was on vevor website l the black are listed as cast iron. The blue are listed as cast steel.
This was a mistake by VEVOR in the product description. Someone asked this question on the product page and VEVOR responded that it's cast steel. They list the black 132 pounder at a 55 HRC and the blue 132 pounder at a 50 HRC.
My question is 'why do you only drop the ball 9 inches for a 10 inch drop test?' You start at 1 inch down and drop it just 9 inches. Does dropping it from a lower level affect the rebound % as it is a different energy profile? Just curious.
I'm just rolling with the "standard" test on anvil fire so I can compare results. Didn't think much about the height.
6:08 - 6:12 = /[beast mode on]
👍🏻💪🏻
LOL Cheers sir!
@@RedBeardOps
I just followed you on X
Pete British
@@sudo_nym Heck yeah!
is it steel or cast iron?? the title says cast iron on the product, but the description says steel??
On VEVOR's site the material is listed as "drop-forged high-grade steel"... with the hardness results, I'm pretty sure that it is steel and not cast iron on the face. I think putting cast iron in the title was a mistake.
thank you very much! I just bought one to mess around with! appreciate the reply! great video!@@RedBeardOps
hows it held up to 7 months of use?
Hey man, I haven't had the time to be forging much, so it's hard to say. Hoping to get some more knives banged out on it in the coming months. Sorry!
@@RedBeardOps no prob bob, looking for an upgrade to mine and thought this would be a decent pick for the price
You want to test out the new Crockpot? 🤣🤣
lol
Well now you got another anvil, and you forged a knife on it.Oh you still got 99 hooks to go. LOL be looking for your new knife build video. Stay safe James.
LOL, you darn right! I got a lot more hooks to go! Really bad at it...
You did the hardness test on the point which is easy to harden, you have to test the center of the anvil. And it's already dented from bouncing a ball barring on it. Tis is a soft anvil. Who wants that?
My high quality anvil also dented from the ball. I tested the rest of the face and it's the same hardness.
Am sorry to tell you but, You high Quality anvil is soft to. A real high quality anvil does not dent. @@RedBeardOps
The stand looks more expensive than the anvil!
Hahaha, it's close!...
Use a Pine Tree round for a stand. Done.. 🪵