I upgraded to the 132 lbs. anvil from the 55 lbs. harbor freight anvil. A huge difference. The 14/ lbs. anvil helps get the job done so much faster and better. Also it does not get dented with every hit of the hammer. Good video. Thank you for the review.
Ha! I have the 132. I like it. That paint was a BEAR TO REMOVE- like they dipped it practically. I’ve been using mine for a year now no issues. My Hardy was a mess but die grinder fixes all… wish it was 1” but mine cleaned up at 1.25” The size ratios are different to the 66 for sure. It’s a chunky fat lil beast. Mine came from Vevor but does say Acciaio - but it’s on the other side to the 66. After stripping I can see the induction hardening line - it’s pretty thick, surprisingly. Like 5/8” plus. Mine has good rebound, better than that copy for sure… luckily. God bless bro.
@@catjockey2710 I can’t see the induction line on my 66 but I did more wire wheel work and less stripper on it than the 132. I probably wiped it out. The main issue with these is obviously the inconsistency from anvil to anvil. I think there are a lot of GOOD copies of these and with a few changes to the casting it could be even better (pritchel position is diabolical) but for the money it’s a good deal. Funny story: I called Vevor about the hardy not being 1” as advertised in the spec sheet on my 132. Vevor has a free return policy. They did NOT want to have to pay shipping taking it back for another one and started bargaining for me to keep it. End of story is a little back and forth emailing and they gave me half my money back, putting it at exactly a dollar a pound… 😊
I've had the 44 lb anvil for about 3 years and it's standing up fine. The specs from the supplier l bought it from lists the anvil composition as C45 Cast Steel. I believe Daniel Moss uses that steel to make his hammers. It would be interesting to see if Roy could heat treat the little one (you would probably burn through almost 100 lbs of propane if you tried to heat treat the 135 lb).
On another note, I actually like having a larger round hole, because it's easy to make an insert for a smaller hole, and you'd need a shoulder around the hole anyway. The hardy being too big though is a pain for me though.
It makes me feel good that this anvil has made it easier for people to access blacksmithing. I know that people are buying these and trying out the craft, but unfortunately I know. Lot of people aren't liking it either. My local Facebook marketplace is full of these for sale secondhand. Finished up with the paint stripped sitting on homemade bases.
I recently purchased my first anvil from harborfreight. The nice 55lb one? Yep, that thing. I read some comments from people referring to Anvil Shaped Objects. I loved that term, so I took my die grinder and engraved in onto the side of the anvil.
That's the one I bought, but mine has a 1" hardy and it says acciaio 60 on the side and your right about keeping an eye out for them , they go on sale and sell out super quick!
The hole at the base of the horn was not intended as a pritchel hole, it was put there to give you a place to pass the socket wrench with extenders through to bolt it to your base. The Hardy hold was positioned so that it could serves both purposes; hardy hole and access for a socket wrench to bolt it down. But it seems you were able to make it function, well done. Take advantage of everything. They are identical because the same factory in china produces them, and a lot of resellers contract for a batch, with tiny tweaks such as paint color or name embossed on the side. They sell out because of the import limits for each reseller's order, then the next reseller gets their batch and puts it up. You will see a LOT of that on amazon, identical products sold by a dozen different resellers, with just the silk-screened name being different.
I'm currently learning on a 110lb acciao anvil, from our version of harbour freight. I had to pick thru the 3 or 4 they had on the shelf, and picked the best one. The hardy holes are sometimes out of alignment, and a couple had welded patches on the face. Mine is relatively square, and has a smooth face with no repairs. So far it has been great, once I got it bolted down. I have it mounted on a laminated wood block, which is in turn bolted to a 2' cube of reenforced concrete poured into my dirt floor. I also bolted a piece of 3/4" x 4" or so plate down between the legs, to act as an upsetting block. It took a bit to clean up and fine tune, but considering i paid around $280 (canadian) for a 110lb steel anvil, a bit of fine tuning is to be expected. Lets be honest, if we were afraid to make or modify our own tools, we wouldn't be doing this in the first place.
I have the 40kg version of that anvil. Mine is probably a little over 50HRC and it was great for the price. The horn on mine is pretty soft like that one.
Heck yeah . I bought the 30kg version but the box was torn up it also had a tiny bit of the horn that was chipped off and on the front of the face it had some small chips on its right side which I was expecting for the price , but after looking at Walmart I found the 40kg for 165$ which was the same price as the 30kg so I just got the 30kg today and I already am processing a return on it since my 40kg will be here in around 5days. That being said are you still enjoying your 40kg 2 months later?
I know I’m 10 months late, but the differential hardening makes sense with the pritchell being on the horn and large. They hung it from the ptitchell to quench …..
Very nice job reviewing it Roy. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend Roy. Can't wait to see more videos. Forge on. Keep making. God bless. Keep teaching. God bless.
Greetings from Ireland ☘ I have several of the "acciaio" anvils and the shape can vary a lot between two types and from my experience if you order in Europe it's just pot luck which shape you get sent. My 132lb has the acciaio logo but looks completely different. The horn is a wide oval shape with less depth to it. The hardy hole is 1 3/16". I also have two 66lb, one is similar to yours with the round conical horn, but the other is more like my 132lb with a wide oval shaped horn. I also have a 22lb which looks nothing like your one. Mine looks much much smaller despite weighing exactly 10kg and has a more round horn. It's has no legs as such, just a stumpy body with four feet. I'm tempted to order another 132lb in the hopes that I get the one shown here but it's possible I'll just get the same again
@@Volundur9567 It's not that the horn is distorted, but rather cast using a completely different shape mould. My 66lb with the oval horn is one of the best finish castings I've seen. It even has the "Acciaio 30" logo on both sides which I've never seen with any other. The horn is perfectly cast, just an odd shape. I have tried requesting a picture of the actual anvil being sent, and have also tried requesting that i simply receive the same as the picture shown, but the response I got was that the anvils are sent out at random and the exact style can vary
I bought one of those in 20kg also on vevor (mine did have the imprint on the site) and the hardyhole was kind of just another pritchel hole. So Ive been filing a lot to get this square. I also smoothed the round horn since there was a casting seam along the top. Other than that the face was pretty flat with no spots or smth.
I tried to get one of these all last year but they were out of stock. They kept telling me 2 to 3 weeks. I noticed they were finally in stock about a month ago but the price also jumped. Ive had the 66lb for a good while now and love it for what it is but need something bigger.
Hey mate, good review. Just a slight niggling thing. Your rebound measurement should be to the bottom of the ball. Only the bottom of the ball gets to 0 in.
If I didn't have a 119lb Peter Wright already, I'd get one of these and modify the crap out of it. First would be to cut/grind in a shelf around the pritchel hole, then smooth the horn out completely. If it's too soft, I'd fully hard face the top, using the opportunity to also weld in a sleeve to make the hardy hole a common size. The biggest downside it the lack of mass directly under the center of the face because of the spread feet.
You could fix both the Harty and Pritchle sizes with a cheap threaded metal sleeve with something screwed on cut and wilded and ground flat or a peice a square tube and you could chamfer the edge of the Harty then round over the does into that....
What were the hardness scratch testers? I'm brand new to knife making and I think that having testers would be better than simply guessing. I also hope that their available on Amazon. Thanks
Question on the hardy hole; would it be possible to tack weld some shim 1/8” liners from the bottom up to the top so you can use the smaller shank hardies? I would think if the hardy has a wide enough flange, enough of the blow force will radiate to the striking surface while the hardy stays square in the hole?
I'd like one of these but I definitely don't like that over one inch hardy hole haha.. so if I upgrade to a heavier anvil I'd like to make that hole smaller if possible.. maybe weld a 3/4in ID square tube in the hole? Not sure if that would work
You could make a set of "hardy adapters" with 1+ 3/8 shanks, so that you could use any old tooling you happen to find or can buy. Bit more involved, of course.
@@analogplanet9675 yeah that would work.. luckily a majority of my hardy tools I got is after I bought the little 66lb version of this anvil so I'd only need at least two adapters, 3/4in and 1in, because 1in seems standard.. but the adapter idea, keeps from welding on the anvil.. definitely gonna have to get one and turn my smaller anvil into a on the road anvil..
I already have the 66# acciuo anvil that works pretty good even if it is somewhat small....would it be enough of a difference to make an upgrade to this one worth it?..I am just a hobby Smith making small projects anyway.
The rebound is weird. I’ve seen tests on the 66 lb models, also seemingly RC 50+, and the rebounds were all between 70 to 80%. With testing to 50+ and with more mass, I would also expect a rebound of 70%. So either the tester is causing friction against the tube, draining some of the energy from the rebound, or the anvil has some defect. The other anvils had the expected high pitch ring, while this one had a shorter, lower pitched ring. I’d be curious to see the test with a smaller ball bearing, as this one seems rather large. Since I’m considering the black version, claimed to be RC 55, I’m interested in these tests.
What kind of quality were the cheap Russian anvils? I am assuming better than cheap Chinese, but I never knew anything about the Russian anvils until I saw the comment. I wish I knew about them before they stopped coming in.
I've seen you do a "drop test" on various anvils, so have a question about the drop. The base of the test is wood and it completely touches the anvil. Would that not also dampen the rebound of the ball? True, it is all relative, same test and dampening on all anvils, but would you get a more accurate test if the base only touched on the far edges (1/4" strip of wood on 2 sides) or on all 4 corners 1/4" feet? Seems like the wood would do a bit of dampening itself?
Hi Roy!Thank you for showing !Alfred Habermann said for a long time !"show me a tool and i'll tell you what a blacksmith you are "Thats so true!Greeting #Bulatsschmiede from germany (Bulat the Blacksmith)😊🤙
I ordered this 60kg anvil about a week ago, and it showed up today... I ordered the black version, not the blue. Turns out the difference is more than paint: The black ones are rated at H55RC hardness as opposed to H50RC for the blue ones. Here are some quick observations... 1. the anvil came in a wooden box - thin 1/4" plywood, but hey, its a lot better than cardboard, and it stood up better than what Roy describes here. 2. Both horns had broken through the crate, but neither was damaged 3. The sides of the casting are MUCH rougher than what Roy got in this video. That's probably not a functional issue, but its worth mentioning. 4. The round horn is NOT circular, it's a squat oval horn - not flat topped with a radius and then flat-ish sides - but definitely not circular like the one in this video. 5. There are several spots of bondo... not bad and not deep, but they're there in case you're bothered by such things. 6. The hardy hole is about 1 1/8 by (just under) 1 1/4 inch. It tapers down to be 1 1/8 square about 3/4" down the hole. 7. the pritchel hole 'overlaps about 1/8" into the top face. This just sucks because... 8. the horn is a solid 1/4" below the face (so building it up with weld to be level with the face would require a LOT more filler material, unless I made a cutting block there instead 9. the square horn doesn't come to nearly as sharp a point as the one in the review. Mine has about a 5/8, maybe 3/4 wide flat at the end. and... 10. the paint is HORRIBLE. This doesn't matter to me because I'm stripping it off anyway (to clean up the rough casting, mostly). There's no paint on the bottom of the bick, the square horn or the base, well there is paint actually, there are thick rubberey runs and drips, but not a good coating of paint, LOL. It comes off easily - almost like spray-undercoating or plasti-dip... so its really low quality paint, or so it seems to me. On the other hand: 11. The anvil's got good ring all around, no dead spots to speak of so its probably a good solid cast 12. The face surface is a little too rough to have been surface ground, but too fine to have been wide belt sanded, overall, pretty good, and clearly machine finished 13. the face is good and hard 14. I bounced a hard ball bearing on it, and bounced a 4lb hammer on it and neither left any mark what so ever Overall, I'm really happy with it so far. Shipping took 8 days from California to the east coast, and it cost me $245 on sale. For reference, the last used anvil I saw near me was 75 lbs, chipped and worn out beyond usability, and thoroughly rusted... and they wanted $600 for it - it had been decorating their front porch since the 1990's.
I don't know if you already bought one but the 66lb seems good , but that being said after I ordered the 66lb from Amazon for 166$ I saw walmart had the 88lb for 165$ so maybe look into that for th extra size you also still get free shipping with walmart and 30day return period. Good luck
It hasn't quite been a full year later, but would you still recommend buying this anvil today? I'm still really new to smithing and don't have everything for my smithy quite yet, but when I'm ready to upgrade from the little 10 lb anvil I bought at an auction I'm hoping I don't have to sell a few limbs for it lol I still need to get a bench vise and a forge, but for the most part I think I have a decent start on the tools! I just have a little bitty anvil that might only be good for practicing with making nails, keychains, bottle openers, and other really small projects.
Get this one to learn on, use it for a few years and keep an eye out for something fancier. The heavier the anvil the better but for a newbie this anvil is perfect to learn on. I started with a piece of rail that i turned into an anvil with nothing more than a small angle grinder, hacksaws and files lol. I wish i could have started with one of these, might be worth weldingg an insert into the hardie so you can use 25mm or one inch hardie tools
I have a 66 pound version of this anvil. My comment before watching this video after about 15 seconds is.....the lack of dressing on this anvil before use makes me want to cry. Top is rusty. Edges are sharp all the way around. Hardy hole is jagged. Just looks.....unprofessional.
How exactly do you expect to test an anvil in one video?? The only thing you could possibly care about is the longevity of it, like over years and years of banging on it, which obviously is impossible to do in a video. There is a zero % chance any hunk of steel like that would fail upon first use... This is like saying I'm doing to test this patio paver today by walking on it... you're just hitting a very hard chunk of steel with a much smaller weaker peice of steel a couple times... nothing is going to happen... The only thing i'm genuinely interested in and didn't see you answer (you could of later i didn't watch the whole thing) is if this puppy comes with free prime shipping LOL...
Do you drive on public roads? That’s socialism. Did you and or your children attend public schools? That’s socialism. Do you now or do you plan to collect a social security check? That’s socialism. Scratch that all you want.
@@tinymission7821 So, forcibly steeling peoples money, and then claiming getting a little of it back makes them a socialist? Interesting. Does being arrested by the police for theft and being thrown in jail for it also make you a law abiding person? I'm trying to figure out your logic here.
This isn’t “my logic”. In the world of your logic there would be no police or jails since they are also paid by publicly pooled funds. That’s socialism too. Do you really think the money you earn, even in total, could come close to paying for all the systems that are in place for you to function and make a living in society? I don’t like paying taxes any more than the next person does. But I do understand that it takes tremendous amounts of money to develop and maintain society as a whole. Many people have paid before you and me so that we could start using it right away before we even earned our first dime and contributed anything.
@@tinymission7821 It is your logic, you are supporting it. My neighborhood pays for it's own roads, voluntarily, we have a group well, voluntarily, I pay for propane to be shipped in, voluntarily... I think your forced system is just that, forced, and you support it openly I work with the system you are supporting, because I am forced at gunpoint. But feel free to carry on with your attempt at a condescending diatribe. Think only within the box you were given, because for you there will only be the ways that other force upon you.
Your neighborhood road eventually attaches to a state maintained road. If not for the state maintained one that can give you access to the entire US, your voluntary road would be of little use. But at least you see that it costs money to pay for these things. There’s a reason that a piece of land that fronts a state maintained road is more valuable than one that doesn’t. It will be always be maintained whether people want to “volunteer” or not. It will be there because all of society funds it, even if they personally never even drive a foot on that particular road. That’s socialism. And believe it or not, you benefit from it. Now you’re more than welcome not to use it but I’ll bet you use it all the time not even caring how it’s paid for.
I upgraded to the 132 lbs. anvil from the 55 lbs. harbor freight anvil. A huge difference. The 14/ lbs. anvil helps get the job done so much faster and better. Also it does not get dented with every hit of the hammer. Good video. Thank you for the review.
I believe the one from harbor freight is cast iron and that's why it was denting on you.
Ha! I have the 132. I like it.
That paint was a BEAR TO REMOVE- like they dipped it practically. I’ve been using mine for a year now no issues. My Hardy was a mess but die grinder fixes all… wish it was 1” but mine cleaned up at 1.25”
The size ratios are different to the 66 for sure. It’s a chunky fat lil beast. Mine came from Vevor but does say Acciaio - but it’s on the other side to the 66. After stripping I can see the induction hardening line - it’s pretty thick, surprisingly. Like 5/8” plus. Mine has good rebound, better than that copy for sure… luckily.
God bless bro.
@@catjockey2710 I can’t see the induction line on my 66 but I did more wire wheel work and less stripper on it than the 132. I probably wiped it out.
The main issue with these is obviously the inconsistency from anvil to anvil. I think there are a lot of GOOD copies of these and with a few changes to the casting it could be even better (pritchel position is diabolical) but for the money it’s a good deal. Funny story: I called Vevor about the hardy not being 1” as advertised in the spec sheet on my 132. Vevor has a free return policy. They did NOT want to have to pay shipping taking it back for another one and started bargaining for me to keep it. End of story is a little back and forth emailing and they gave me half my money back, putting it at exactly a dollar a pound… 😊
I've had the 44 lb anvil for about 3 years and it's standing up fine. The specs from the supplier l bought it from lists the anvil composition as C45 Cast Steel. I believe Daniel Moss uses that steel to make his hammers. It would be interesting to see if Roy could heat treat the little one (you would probably burn through almost 100 lbs of propane if you tried to heat treat the 135 lb).
C45 = 1045 steel (basically)
Thanks Roy.
God bless you and your family too!
Nice! I have made a railroad anvil and boy... After grinding on it for multiple days I wish I just bought one of these...
On another note, I actually like having a larger round hole, because it's easy to make an insert for a smaller hole, and you'd need a shoulder around the hole anyway. The hardy being too big though is a pain for me though.
It makes me feel good that this anvil has made it easier for people to access blacksmithing. I know that people are buying these and trying out the craft, but unfortunately I know. Lot of people aren't liking it either. My local Facebook marketplace is full of these for sale secondhand. Finished up with the paint stripped sitting on homemade bases.
How many of them might just be people trading it in for an upgrade?
Great video and review and love that you are Christ centered!
I recently purchased my first anvil from harborfreight. The nice 55lb one? Yep, that thing. I read some comments from people referring to Anvil Shaped Objects. I loved that term, so I took my die grinder and engraved in onto the side of the anvil.
I have been using the.132 lb for over a year 90% bounce back for 300 bucks free shipping I can't say enough good things about it
That's the one I bought, but mine has a 1" hardy and it says acciaio 60 on the side and your right about keeping an eye out for them , they go on sale and sell out super quick!
I got the 60 as well only weighs 102lbs but it's sold as 110lb great little anvil moves metal alot better than my old train track
The hole at the base of the horn was not intended as a pritchel hole, it was put there to give you a place to pass the socket wrench with extenders through to bolt it to your base. The Hardy hold was positioned so that it could serves both purposes; hardy hole and access for a socket wrench to bolt it down. But it seems you were able to make it function, well done. Take advantage of everything.
They are identical because the same factory in china produces them, and a lot of resellers contract for a batch, with tiny tweaks such as paint color or name embossed on the side. They sell out because of the import limits for each reseller's order, then the next reseller gets their batch and puts it up. You will see a LOT of that on amazon, identical products sold by a dozen different resellers, with just the silk-screened name being different.
I'm currently learning on a 110lb acciao anvil, from our version of harbour freight. I had to pick thru the 3 or 4 they had on the shelf, and picked the best one. The hardy holes are sometimes out of alignment, and a couple had welded patches on the face. Mine is relatively square, and has a smooth face with no repairs. So far it has been great, once I got it bolted down. I have it mounted on a laminated wood block, which is in turn bolted to a 2' cube of reenforced concrete poured into my dirt floor. I also bolted a piece of 3/4" x 4" or so plate down between the legs, to act as an upsetting block. It took a bit to clean up and fine tune, but considering i paid around $280 (canadian) for a 110lb steel anvil, a bit of fine tuning is to be expected. Lets be honest, if we were afraid to make or modify our own tools, we wouldn't be doing this in the first place.
Great video. That hardy hole is crazy. Thank you for your hard work.
That big hardy is nuts, i guess they just scaled up every dimension without stopping to think about it.
Well, you wouldnt want to get gyped out of the joy of making all new hardy hole tools would you?
@@starhawke380 lol. Every anvil I own has entirely different hardie hole sizes.
@@Volundur9567 that would bug the crap out of me... i would pick the largest one and make the others bigger to match. But my CDO is my problem....
One can sometimes find a piece of square tubing that can be tacked into oversize hole and still use your 1" hardy tools
@@ericsprado4631 i did think abou that too, 30mm box some and some 5mm spacers welded to it.
$10 they just scaled the CAD model up and didn't realize the holes.
Also. Orange == performance
Ahem, orange = high performance 🤣
I have the 40kg version of that anvil. Mine is probably a little over 50HRC and it was great for the price. The horn on mine is pretty soft like that one.
Heck yeah . I bought the 30kg version but the box was torn up it also had a tiny bit of the horn that was chipped off and on the front of the face it had some small chips on its right side which I was expecting for the price , but after looking at Walmart I found the 40kg for 165$ which was the same price as the 30kg so I just got the 30kg today and I already am processing a return on it since my 40kg will be here in around 5days. That being said are you still enjoying your 40kg 2 months later?
I know I’m 10 months late, but the differential hardening makes sense with the pritchell being on the horn and large. They hung it from the ptitchell to quench …..
Very nice job reviewing it Roy. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend Roy. Can't wait to see more videos. Forge on. Keep making. God bless. Keep teaching. God bless.
Thank you for this review looks like you actually used it and have some skill and technique.
Damn looks so satisfying. Forging is the skill and hobby I’ve been missing out on.
I don’t have that many years left but I’ve got to do this
8 months later. Have you gotten to any blacksmithing?
I like the use of the chipping hammer Roy.
Greetings from Ireland ☘ I have several of the "acciaio" anvils and the shape can vary a lot between two types and from my experience if you order in Europe it's just pot luck which shape you get sent. My 132lb has the acciaio logo but looks completely different. The horn is a wide oval shape with less depth to it. The hardy hole is 1 3/16". I also have two 66lb, one is similar to yours with the round conical horn, but the other is more like my 132lb with a wide oval shaped horn. I also have a 22lb which looks nothing like your one. Mine looks much much smaller despite weighing exactly 10kg and has a more round horn. It's has no legs as such, just a stumpy body with four feet. I'm tempted to order another 132lb in the hopes that I get the one shown here but it's possible I'll just get the same again
I heard about some badly cast ones with distorted horns. If you go that route of buying this, try to ask for a real pic of the one being up for sale.
@@Volundur9567 It's not that the horn is distorted, but rather cast using a completely different shape mould. My 66lb with the oval horn is one of the best finish castings I've seen. It even has the "Acciaio 30" logo on both sides which I've never seen with any other. The horn is perfectly cast, just an odd shape. I have tried requesting a picture of the actual anvil being sent, and have also tried requesting that i simply receive the same as the picture shown, but the response I got was that the anvils are sent out at random and the exact style can vary
@@desmcdowell2469 I would be pissed, if I order an anvil with a conical horn, that's what I want, not some random style.
Great Anvil Review Mr. Roy.
Thank you for sharing another Anvil review with us all.
I covered the top of my horn with Hard surface welding Rods and it worked great, great hammer bounce, the hammer doesn't leave any marks👌
I bought one of those in 20kg also on vevor (mine did have the imprint on the site) and the hardyhole was kind of just another pritchel hole. So Ive been filing a lot to get this square. I also smoothed the round horn since there was a casting seam along the top. Other than that the face was pretty flat with no spots or smth.
I use a 15lb harbor freight anvil this would make a amazing upgrade!
I love my 22lb vevor anvil it's a beast I'm planning to buy one of those 135lb anvils sometime soon
I tried to get one of these all last year but they were out of stock. They kept telling me 2 to 3 weeks. I noticed they were finally in stock about a month ago but the price also jumped. Ive had the 66lb for a good while now and love it for what it is but need something bigger.
Didn’t recognise you Roy, cutting costs by eliminating razors! 1 3/8 Hardie is huge for any anvil!
Hi Roy, Good review. For the money, I think these anvils are pretty good. I really enjoy your review videos. Thanks.
Hey mate, good review. Just a slight niggling thing. Your rebound measurement should be to the bottom of the ball. Only the bottom of the ball gets to 0 in.
If I didn't have a 119lb Peter Wright already, I'd get one of these and modify the crap out of it. First would be to cut/grind in a shelf around the pritchel hole, then smooth the horn out completely. If it's too soft, I'd fully hard face the top, using the opportunity to also weld in a sleeve to make the hardy hole a common size. The biggest downside it the lack of mass directly under the center of the face because of the spread feet.
Loved that intro! Made me think of the commercial from Robo Cop. The 6000SUX executive car.
If you want to improve the repeatability of your rebound test, maybe you could rig up an electromagnet
You could fix both the Harty and Pritchle sizes with a cheap threaded metal sleeve with something screwed on cut and wilded and ground flat or a peice a square tube and you could chamfer the edge of the Harty then round over the does into that....
What were the hardness scratch testers? I'm brand new to knife making and I think that having testers would be better than simply guessing. I also hope that their available on Amazon. Thanks
Link in the description for the hardness tester kit.
Would you guys suggest getting one of these or going with just a railroad anvil to start our with
So this holds up better than the harbor freight one?
That was super informative. If I was in the market that would be a good option for one with some heft to it .
Question on the hardy hole; would it be possible to tack weld some shim 1/8” liners from the bottom up to the top so you can use the smaller shank hardies? I would think if the hardy has a wide enough flange, enough of the blow force will radiate to the striking surface while the hardy stays square in the hole?
Yes that's a possibility
I'd like one of these but I definitely don't like that over one inch hardy hole haha.. so if I upgrade to a heavier anvil I'd like to make that hole smaller if possible.. maybe weld a 3/4in ID square tube in the hole? Not sure if that would work
You could make a set of "hardy adapters" with 1+ 3/8 shanks, so that you could use any old tooling you happen to find or can buy. Bit more involved, of course.
@@analogplanet9675 yeah that would work.. luckily a majority of my hardy tools I got is after I bought the little 66lb version of this anvil so I'd only need at least two adapters, 3/4in and 1in, because 1in seems standard.. but the adapter idea, keeps from welding on the anvil.. definitely gonna have to get one and turn my smaller anvil into a on the road anvil..
I already have the 66# acciuo anvil that works pretty good even if it is somewhat small....would it be enough of a difference to make an upgrade to this one worth it?..I am just a hobby Smith making small projects anyway.
The rebound is weird. I’ve seen tests on the 66 lb models, also seemingly RC 50+, and the rebounds were all between 70 to 80%. With testing to 50+ and with more mass, I would also expect a rebound of 70%. So either the tester is causing friction against the tube, draining some of the energy from the rebound, or the anvil has some defect. The other anvils had the expected high pitch ring, while this one had a shorter, lower pitched ring. I’d be curious to see the test with a smaller ball bearing, as this one seems rather large. Since I’m considering the black version, claimed to be RC 55, I’m interested in these tests.
i wish these were available 10 years ago. I started too late for the cheap Russian anvils, and too early for the Chinese steel anvils.
What kind of quality were the cheap Russian anvils? I am assuming better than cheap Chinese, but I never knew anything about the Russian anvils until I saw the comment. I wish I knew about them before they stopped coming in.
I've seen you do a "drop test" on various anvils, so have a question about the drop.
The base of the test is wood and it completely touches the anvil. Would that not also dampen the rebound of the ball?
True, it is all relative, same test and dampening on all anvils, but would you get a more accurate test if the base only touched on the far edges (1/4" strip of wood on 2 sides) or on all 4 corners 1/4" feet?
Seems like the wood would do a bit of dampening itself?
Swedish made is always great too!
Hi Roy!Thank you for showing !Alfred Habermann said for a long time !"show me a tool and i'll tell you what a blacksmith you are "Thats so true!Greeting #Bulatsschmiede from germany (Bulat the Blacksmith)😊🤙
Really helpful! I especially loved your fun intro! (Yes, it is definitely bluer. I know a guy who did a youtube video on fixing that.... :D)
What about welding a sleeve into the hardie to size it down?
What do you think this vs the new hf Doyle personally
Whats that anvil made from has a ring to it..
delivery quality??? who delivered it? dhl? ups? fedex?
I ordered this 60kg anvil about a week ago, and it showed up today...
I ordered the black version, not the blue. Turns out the difference is more than paint: The black ones are rated at H55RC hardness as opposed to H50RC for the blue ones.
Here are some quick observations...
1. the anvil came in a wooden box - thin 1/4" plywood, but hey, its a lot better than cardboard, and it stood up better than what Roy describes here.
2. Both horns had broken through the crate, but neither was damaged
3. The sides of the casting are MUCH rougher than what Roy got in this video. That's probably not a functional issue, but its worth mentioning.
4. The round horn is NOT circular, it's a squat oval horn - not flat topped with a radius and then flat-ish sides - but definitely not circular like the one in this video.
5. There are several spots of bondo... not bad and not deep, but they're there in case you're bothered by such things.
6. The hardy hole is about 1 1/8 by (just under) 1 1/4 inch. It tapers down to be 1 1/8 square about 3/4" down the hole.
7. the pritchel hole 'overlaps about 1/8" into the top face. This just sucks because...
8. the horn is a solid 1/4" below the face (so building it up with weld to be level with the face would require a LOT more filler material, unless I made a cutting block there instead
9. the square horn doesn't come to nearly as sharp a point as the one in the review. Mine has about a 5/8, maybe 3/4 wide flat at the end.
and...
10. the paint is HORRIBLE. This doesn't matter to me because I'm stripping it off anyway (to clean up the rough casting, mostly). There's no paint on the bottom of the bick, the square horn or the base, well there is paint actually, there are thick rubberey runs and drips, but not a good coating of paint, LOL. It comes off easily - almost like spray-undercoating or plasti-dip... so its really low quality paint, or so it seems to me.
On the other hand:
11. The anvil's got good ring all around, no dead spots to speak of so its probably a good solid cast
12. The face surface is a little too rough to have been surface ground, but too fine to have been wide belt sanded, overall, pretty good, and clearly machine finished
13. the face is good and hard
14. I bounced a hard ball bearing on it, and bounced a 4lb hammer on it and neither left any mark what so ever
Overall, I'm really happy with it so far. Shipping took 8 days from California to the east coast, and it cost me $245 on sale. For reference, the last used anvil I saw near me was 75 lbs, chipped and worn out beyond usability, and thoroughly rusted... and they wanted $600 for it - it had been decorating their front porch since the 1990's.
I just purchased a 100 lb anvil from TFS and I wondering if you have ever work with one and what you opinion of it was.
Thanks for posting this. Going to have to get a Rockwell tester file kit now. Surprised that the anvil rings, being cast.
They're definitely a neat tool 🤠
Thanks man
I'm wanting to start
I got a RAILROAD TRACK anvil - I found a decent price on it...
Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the review!
Price at Christmas is $6 per kg. (60kg, $360)
I got the small one and it's pretty good I use it and it's holding up good
Nice beard nice to see you upload a new vid!
Thank you for all you do 👏
make an adapter for the hardy hole so you can still use the tools that you allredy have
watched it all the way thru.... I ordered one thru walmart. 132lb for $245
I'm no blacksmith. QUESTION: What are the flakes of material coming off the heated steel randomly as he hits it when cooling?
It's called scale. It's basically rust forming very fast in the Forge
Wow that was a great video! Thanks
Roy, if I found this for less. But, I'll only post the link with your permission, since you have the affiliate link.
Love the John Deere in the background 😃
Do you recommend taking the blue paint off of the horn?
I recommend removing the paint, for sure. It burns when you forge near/on it, which is probably terrible for humans...the smell is terrible, too!
Is it worth paying the extra money to get this over the 66lb one for a beginner knife maker?
I don't know if you already bought one but the 66lb seems good , but that being said after I ordered the 66lb from Amazon for 166$ I saw walmart had the 88lb for 165$ so maybe look into that for th extra size you also still get free shipping with walmart and 30day return period. Good luck
I'd guess that the holes are giant because they just blindly rescaled the drawing from a smaller anvil with no adjustments.
Throw some paint stripper on a few and you'll find massive pits filled with bondo.
Maybe who knows
Where’d you get the clear tube for the ball bearing drop?
Home Depot “power tec long clear pipe”
Good video. Good info.
Can’t you just weld a better steel on the top if you want?
Why certainly, go right ahead. But there is no need. This is already a good anvil.
no link what the hell
It hasn't quite been a full year later, but would you still recommend buying this anvil today? I'm still really new to smithing and don't have everything for my smithy quite yet, but when I'm ready to upgrade from the little 10 lb anvil I bought at an auction I'm hoping I don't have to sell a few limbs for it lol
I still need to get a bench vise and a forge, but for the most part I think I have a decent start on the tools! I just have a little bitty anvil that might only be good for practicing with making nails, keychains, bottle openers, and other really small projects.
Get this one to learn on, use it for a few years and keep an eye out for something fancier.
The heavier the anvil the better but for a newbie this anvil is perfect to learn on.
I started with a piece of rail that i turned into an anvil with nothing more than a small angle grinder, hacksaws and files lol.
I wish i could have started with one of these, might be worth weldingg an insert into the hardie so you can use 25mm or one inch hardie tools
@@xMrjamjam Thank you for the advice! I'll save up for this one and pick it up at some point :)
You should start every video with a similar voice over.
The paint my guy....the horn is hard....the paint is letting them scratch..
Worst comes to worst weld a leaf spring onto the face DONE!
I have a 66 pound version of this anvil. My comment before watching this video after about 15 seconds is.....the lack of dressing on this anvil before use makes me want to cry. Top is rusty. Edges are sharp all the way around. Hardy hole is jagged. Just looks.....unprofessional.
Way, wayyyy, WAAAYYYY TOO MUCH MONEY FOR THAT ANVIL.
I wanted to like this but that would have made the likes 666 and that just didn’t feel right 👊🏼😂👍🏼
Thanks for the thumbs up anyway 😉 LoL
How exactly do you expect to test an anvil in one video?? The only thing you could possibly care about is the longevity of it, like over years and years of banging on it, which obviously is impossible to do in a video. There is a zero % chance any hunk of steel like that would fail upon first use... This is like saying I'm doing to test this patio paver today by walking on it... you're just hitting a very hard chunk of steel with a much smaller weaker peice of steel a couple times... nothing is going to happen...
The only thing i'm genuinely interested in and didn't see you answer (you could of later i didn't watch the whole thing) is if this puppy comes with free prime shipping LOL...
WELD UP THE HARDY AND PRICHER HOLES SMALLER!!!!!!!!!!!!
It’s cheap.
Cast it off flippantly in pure disgust.
Thank you very much.
First! ?
Boom 💥 there you are 😊
Much like, socialists, democrats, and marxists? they are always the same thing no matter how hard you scratch?
Do you drive on public roads? That’s socialism. Did you and or your children attend public schools? That’s socialism. Do you now or do you plan to collect a social security check? That’s socialism. Scratch that all you want.
@@tinymission7821 So, forcibly steeling peoples money, and then claiming getting a little of it back makes them a socialist? Interesting. Does being arrested by the police for theft and being thrown in jail for it also make you a law abiding person? I'm trying to figure out your logic here.
This isn’t “my logic”. In the world of your logic there would be no police or jails since they are also paid by publicly pooled funds. That’s socialism too. Do you really think the money you earn, even in total, could come close to paying for all the systems that are in place for you to function and make a living in society? I don’t like paying taxes any more than the next person does. But I do understand that it takes tremendous amounts of money to develop and maintain society as a whole. Many people have paid before you and me so that we could start using it right away before we even earned our first dime and contributed anything.
@@tinymission7821 It is your logic, you are supporting it. My neighborhood pays for it's own roads, voluntarily, we have a group well, voluntarily, I pay for propane to be shipped in, voluntarily... I think your forced system is just that, forced, and you support it openly I work with the system you are supporting, because I am forced at gunpoint. But feel free to carry on with your attempt at a condescending diatribe. Think only within the box you were given, because for you there will only be the ways that other force upon you.
Your neighborhood road eventually attaches to a state maintained road. If not for the state maintained one that can give you access to the entire US, your voluntary road would be of little use. But at least you see that it costs money to pay for these things. There’s a reason that a piece of land that fronts a state maintained road is more valuable than one that doesn’t. It will be always be maintained whether people want to “volunteer” or not. It will be there because all of society funds it, even if they personally never even drive a foot on that particular road. That’s socialism. And believe it or not, you benefit from it. Now you’re more than welcome not to use it but I’ll bet you use it all the time not even caring how it’s paid for.